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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



The Culinary Handbook 



BY CHARLES FELLOWS 



The Most Complete and Serviceable Reference Book 
to Things Culinary Ever Published 



FIRST EDITION 



COPYRIGHT 1904 BY CHARLES FELLOWS 



Published by 

THE HOTEL MONTHLY 

325 Dearborn Street 
CHICAGO 



LIBBAHV of OONGRJrSS 
TWo Oonttt Received 

St! 1C 1904 
£> Coayrteht Entry 
(&Jj /#■/<? * + 
CLASS <2- XXo. No. 

' C6PY B 



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PREFACE. 

This book has been prepared with the aim of gathering into a single volume the largest practi- 
cable collection of every day recipes suited to the catering fraternity iu the English language, mak- 
ing it as nearly as possible the choicest and most complete work of its kind. 

The name which is given it indicates the principle upon which the book has been made: namely, 
that it might serve as a book of reference; as a comprehensive exhibit of the growth, and condi- 
tion of the requirements of the traveling public. 

The work is not a cook book, and does not pretend to teach cookery, yet to those that have al- 
ready received the fundamental ideas of cookery, it will be found to be the best theoretical teacher 
obtainable, as it clearly shows what the combinations of the dishes are and what they look like, and 
how they should be served. 

Necessarily limited in extent, it yet contains more practical matter than any similar publica- 
tion, presenting over four thousand selections. It is believed that of the culinary writers for the 
catering profession acknowledged by the intelligent and cultivated to be great, none, whether 
Foreign cr American have heretofore written the dishes in plain English without the foreign affec- 
tation of "A LA", an affectation when appearing on the Bill of Fare causing the guest to expect 
much, and disappointing him by receiving little. 

The dusty road traveled so much by other writers in making their books contain five times as 
many pages as are necessary has been avoided, and we hope that one of the special merits of this 
volume is its brevity. 

With these brief explanations, The Culinary Handbook is placed before the catering fraternity, 
with the hope that it will be deemed worthy of its title. 

The Author. 






* 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ABSINTHE — A liqueur made principally from 
wormwood, anise, angelica, coriander seeds and 
alcohol, sometimes adulterated with aromatic 
resins and dangerous colorings; its uses are 
chiefly as a drink diluted with water, and in 
making many of the American mixed drinks. 

ACETIC ACID — The foundation of all vinegars; 
used by confectioners when making icing from 
whites of eggs,. to facilitate the beating. 

AERATED WATERS— Such as Vichy, Apolli- 
naris, Carlsbad water, Friedrichshall bitter, 
etc., are obtained from the springs of nature 
and recommended for the relief and cure of 
different complaints of the human system. Imi- 
tation aerated waters mostly contain sugar, and 
are sold as pop, such as ginger ale, sarsaparilla, 
etc. The artificial waters are simply pure 
waters sweetened, flavored and charged with 
carbonic acid gas. In Paris oyster shells are 
washed, and broken into small pieces, and, 
under the action of vitriol, yield the carbonic 
acid gas. 

ALBUMEN — An opaque fluid found plentifully 
in eggs, meats, fish and succulent vegetables, 
especially asparagus. It is the most nourish- 
ing substance known; used in its raw state from 
whites of eggs by cooks chiefly in clarifying 
purposes. 

ALCOHOL — A colorless liquid obtained from 
fermenting sugar; is found in all wines and 
spirits and is the intoxicating quality of them. 
It is largely used in making flavoring extracts, 
by diluting the oil of the flavor required with 
the alcohol. Wood alcohol obtained at any 
drug store is the best and cleanest material to 
be used in singeing poultry and game. 

ALLIGATOR PEAR— A fruit found in the West 
Indies and Mexico, but can be bought at most 
of the fruit stores in season; the large green 
ones are the best; they are served the same as 
canteloupes, or sliced into a salad seasoned 
with pepper, salt and the juice of a lime. 

ALLSPICE — The product of the pimento shrub, 
used as a food flavoring. When ground it has 
a graining of a ruby coloring; purchased in its 
ground state, is often adulterated with mustard 
husks. 



A.LMONDS— The best for culinary purposes is 
the Jordan; it is about an inch long, flat with a 
clear brown skin, sweet and rather tough. In 
making almond soup seven-eighths sweet and 
one-eighth bitter almonds should be used. 

SALTED ALMONDS— Made by blanching, skin- 
ning, and frying them in butter oil till nicely 
browned, then dusting with salt; make a nice 
appetizer, or hors d'oeuvre. 

DEVILLED ALMONDS— Made like salted al- 
monds, but after salting, well dusted with 
cayenne pepper. 

ALUM — A white astringent salt, often used to 
whiten flour, to quickly clear gin, to improve 
the color of inferior red wines. 

ANCHOVIES — The Dutch are always cleaned of 
their scales. The French are not, and are 
larger. Anchovy paste bought on the markets 
is often adulterated with red-ochre and Veni- 
tian red. 

ANCHOVY CANAPES— Slices of fried bread, 
one-quaiter inch thick, spread with anchovy 
paste or butter, a filleted anchovy on top, the 
edges decorated with minced whites of hard 
boiled egg. 

ANCHOVY AIGRETTES— Filleted anchovies 
washed, then laid for three hours in a pickle of 
olive oil, vinegar and red pepper; taken up, 
drained, dipped in batter and fried a light color 
in very hot fat; served garnished with lobster 
coral and sprigs of parsley. 

ANCHOVY TOAST— Slices of toast spread with 
a mixture made of three-fifths essence of an- 
chovies, one-fifth grated Parmesan cheese, and 
one-fifth minced filleted anchovies and chopped 
parsley. 

ANCHOVY ALUMETTES— Preserved ancho- 
vies in oil, drained, rolled in very thin pie paste, 
fried; served garnished with fried parsley. 

ANCHOVY FRITTERS — Filleted anchovies 
coiled up, dipped in batter and fried a light 
color in hot fat; served garnished with fried 
parsley. 

ANCHOVY TARTINES— Circles of brown bread 
spread with anchovy paste, decorated with 
thinly sliced gherkins alternately with white of 
hard boiled egg. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ANCHOVY BASKETS— Hard boiled eggs, part 
of the white cut away to form an oval basket, 
yolks removed and pounded to a paste with an- 
chovy essence, seasoned with lemon juice and 
cayenne pepper, colored lightly with carmine 
or cochineal, baskets refilled; served garnished 
with watercress. 

ANCHOVY CROUTONS— A paste of three-fifths 
anchovy essence, one-fifth grated cheese and 
one-fifth melted butter and lemon juice, the 
paste spread on fancy cut slices of fried bread; 
served with a coiled anchovy on top. 

ANCHOVY SANDWICH— Thin slices of bread 
cut into shape of circles, spread with the pre- 
ceding mixture, and filleted anchovies laid 
between. 

ANCHOVIES WITH OLIVES— Anchovy toast 
garnished with slices of stuffed olives. 

ANCHOVY CANAPES, BERNE — Triangle 
shaped pieces of fried bread, spread with an- 
chovy paste or butter, the edges garnished with 
minced whites of hard boiled eggs, minced 
yolks, and minced green pickles, with a stuffed 
olive in the center. 

ANCHOVY BUTTER— Two parts of butter to 
one part of anchovy essence, a little grated 
Parmesan cheese and nutmeg, thoroughly mixed 
together. 

ANCHOVY PASTE— Anchovi;s filleted, the fil- 
lets rubbed through a fine sieve, the head and 
bones boiled with a little water and thickened 
with flour, strained into the paste obtained from 
the rubbing, mixed; when cooled, a little coch- 
ineal, walnut catsup, and vinegar added to give 
the required color and consistency. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE— Anchovy paste or butter 
worked into a rich brown sauce, or some 
pounded filleted anchovies, or anchovy essence, 
lemon juice and cayenne pepper worked into a 
cream or butter sauce. 

ANCHOVY CREAM— Anchovy paste worked 
into a butter sauce, and finished w-ith whipped 
cream. 

ANCHOVY STUFFING- Used very often for 
stuffing olives and small game birds. One 
cupful of breadcrumbs squeezed out of milk, 
one tablespoonful of minced fried onions, four 
minced fillets of anchovies, one teaspoonful each 
of minced capers and chopped parsley, the 
whole mixed; if used for stuffing birds, add the 
birds liver minced. 

ANCHOVIES POTTED— Anchovy fillets pound- 
ed and rubbed through a sieve, mixed with 
ground allspice and cayenne pepper to taste, 
placed into small jars, pressed down, and one- 
eighth of an inch of melted lard poured over 
the top, to seal the contents. 

ANCHOVY SALAD— Shredded fillets of salted 
anchovies garnished with small white pickled 
onions, capers and hard boiled eggs; tarragon 
vinegar sprinkled over the anchovies. Also 
shredded lettuce and shredded anchovies, a few 
minced shallots, all mixed together dry, then 



sprinkled with equal parts of olive oil and caper 
vinegar beaten together. 

ANCHOVY CATSUP— Anchovies, onions, whole 
cloves, mace, peppers and ginger, sugar and old 
ale, brought to a quick boil, then slowly sim- 
mered till done, strained through a hair sieve, 
cooled, walnut catsup added; bottled for use. 

ANCHOVY FRITTERS— Thin flour pancakes 
spread with chicken forcemeat, cut in strips 
twice the size of anchovy fillet, which is laid on 
one-half of the strip, the other half folded over, 
then breaded and fried; served garnished with 
fried parsley. 

ANCHOVY OMELET— Beaten eggs seasoned 
with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, made 
into an omelet, the center enclosing some cooked 
fillets of anchovies; served with equal Darts of 
tomato and espagnole sauces mixed togetner. 

ANGEL FOOD— A light, white, kind of sponge 
cake. 

ANGELICA — A green preserved stalk resembling 
rhubarb, used to decorate cakes, also in iced 
puddings, ice creams, etc. 

ANILINE — A chemical product of petroleum; 
the red is the cheapest and best for culinary 
purposes, besides being perfectly harmless. 

ANISE — An herb, from the seeds of which is ex- 
tracted the oil of anise; a liqueur called anis- 
ette is made from the oil; a small proportion of 
oil of anise mixed with alcohol, produces es- 
sence of aniseed, used in flavoring cakes and 
confectionery. 

ANTELOPE — A species of deer; the young are 
best for culinary purposes, as the meat, besides 
being treated in all the same ways as venison, 
is light enough in color to allow of being larded, 
which cannot be done to venison. Red meats 
should never be larded, on account of their 
loss of blood and gravy in cooking. 

APPLES — About twelve really good kinds are 
obtainable by the steward, for hotel purposes — 
Pound sweets, King, Baldwins, Spitzenbergs, 
Northern spy, Rhode Island greenings, Golden 
pippins, Johnathans, Wine saps, Snow, Shia- 
wasse beauty, Roxbury russets, Wageners. 
There are others, but these are among the 
first rank. 

APPLE BAVAROISE— Apple sauce, flavored 
with sherry wine and lemon juice, with enough 
gelatine added to set it, the whole passed 
through a hair sieve, whipped cream stirred in 
according to quantity liked, then poured into 
molds and allowed to set till firm; served with 
whipped cream. 

APPLE BUTTER — Peeled apples boiled down 
in cider to a pulp with a flavor of allspice, the 
pulp then passed through a fine strainer. 

APPLES BAKED— Good firm apples cored, the 
core hole filled with a mixture of butter and 
sugar flavored with nutmeg, then placed into a 
pan containing a little water, and baked till 
done. 

APPLE CAKE — Apple sauce and an equal quan- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



tity of batter of the consistency of cream, made served with a sauce 
of flour, milk, eggs and sugar, mixed together APPLES, PORTUGESE STYLE 
and baked slowly till done; when nearly done, 
the top dusted with sugar, returned to oven to 
get a glazed appearance. 
APPLE CHEESECAKES — Patty pans lined 
with puff paste, filled with apple marmalade 



Firm apples 
cored, peeled and simmered in a thin syrup 
till barely done, taken out, drained, the core 
hole filled with apricot jam, placed on a dish, 
the syrup then reduced to a glaze, and poured 
over them. 



containing a little grated lemon rind and enough APPLE MERINGUE— Apple pulp in a dish, a 
yolks of eggs to set. 
APPLE CHARLOTTE— The bottom and sides 
of a pan or mold lined with thin slices of but- 
tered bread, the interior filled with thick apple 
marmalade, the top covered with slices of but- 
tered bread half an inch thick dipped in a mix- 
ture of milk and eggs, the charlotte then baked 
a fine color, turned out and served with whip- 
ped cream. 
APPLE CHUTNEY— A pint and a half of vine- 
gar, two ounces of whole ginger bruised, one 
ounce of chillies, one ounce of mustard seed, 
two ounces of salt, twelve ounces of sugar, 
boiled slowly for forty-five minutes, then 
strained through a hair sieve; when cooled the 
vinegar thus flavored put on again with a large 
onion minced, one and one-half ounces of 
minced shallots, two ounces of sultana raisins, 
and two and one-half pounds of peeled and 
sliced apples, the whole boiled till apples are 
pulpy, then placed into stone jars and tied 
down with skin. 
APPLE CREAM — Sweet apple sauce, containing 

a little butter and whipped whites of egg. 
APPLE CROQUETTES— Thick apple marma- 
lade containing soft breadcrumbs and egg yolks 
baked till set. When cold, cut in strips two 
inches long and one inch thick, breaded, fried, 
and served with orange sauce. 
APPLE CUSTARD— Apple marmalade mixed 
with beaten eggs and cream, poured into a pan 
or dish, and baked till set. 
APPLE DUMPLINGS— Cored and peeled ap- 
ples enclosed in pie paste, baked, boiled or 
steamed till done, served with a sauce or with 
cream. 
APPLE FLOAT — Cream sweetened and flavored 
with nutmeg poured in a dish or pan; apple 
marmalade containing whipped whites of egg, 
poured in the centre; baked till set. 
APPLE FRITTERS— Slices of cored apples, 
dipped in batter and fried till done; served 
with a syrup or wine sauce. 
APPLE PIE — Thin slices of apples, sweetened 
and spiced, enclosed between an upper and 
lower crust of pie paste; baked till done. 
APPLE ICE — Apple marmalade flavored with 
orange juice, thinned with water, sweetened to 
taste, poured into a freezer and froze. 
APPLE CUSTARD PIE— A pie dish lined with 
puff paste, filled with apple marmalade mixed 
with cream and yolks of eggs; baked till set. 
APPLE CUSTARD FRITTERS— Apple mar- 
malade mixed with custard, baked till set; 
when cooled, cut in slices, breaded, fried and 



layer of fruit marmalade spread on it, whipped 
whites of egg and sugar, tastefully spread over 
all, then placed in oven till of a light fawn 
color . 
APPLE TART— A pie plate lined with puff paste 
with a raised fancy edge to it; filled two-thirds 
full with apple marmalade and baked; when 
done, filled up with a boiled custard, the in- 
terior edge piped round with meringue, also a 
fancy centre; returned to oven till of a fawn 
color. 
APPLE SOUP — Minced cooking apples, grated 
breadcrumbs, and water each one part, a piece 
of lemon rind and a flavoring of cinnamon, 
boiled till thoroughly done, the whole then 
passed through a fine strainer, and enough 
white wine added to form a soup consistency. 
APPLE PANCAKES- -Minced apples worked 
into an ordinary wheat pancake mixture, the 
pancakes baked in the usual way, and served 
with butter and sugar. 
APPLE SHORTCAKE— Two layers of cooked 
shortpaste spread between with apple marma- 
lade, the top ornamented with whipped cream; 
served with sweetened and flavored cream. 
APPLE COMPOTE— Cored and pared apples 
simmered in a boiling syrup till thoroughly 
done, remaining whole. 
APPLE ROLY POLY— A biscuit dough con- 
taining a little sugar, rolled out thin, spread 
with minced apples, seasoned with grated lemon 
rind, cinnamon, or ground cloves according to 
taste, rolled up, the ends tucked in, tied in a 
cloth for boiling (in a mold for steaming) (in a 
pan for baking); served with a sauce, or with 
sweetened cream. 
APPLES FRIED— Good firm apples, peeled, 
cored, cut in slices half an inch thick, then 
dipped in milk, rolled in flour, and fried in 
very hot lard. 
APPLE JOHNNY CAKE— Slices of peeled and 
cored apples in a buttered baking dish, sweet- 
ened and flavored, a pancake batter poured 
over them; baked till done and served with or 
without currant jelly. 
APPLE MARMALADE— Sweetened apple sauce 
boiled down till thick enough to cling to a spoon. 
APPLE PUDDING— Basins or molds lined with 
a suet crust, filled with slices of apples, sweet- 
ened and flavored to taste, top crust put on, 
the basin tied over with a cloth, or mold cover 
placed on and tied, boiled rapidly till done. 
APPLE PUFFS— Minced apples fried a little so 
as not to break, flavored with cinnamon and 
sugar, placed on squares of puff paste, the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



edges brought to a top centre and pinched to- 
gether, brushed over with beaten egg and 
baked. 

APPLE COBBLER— A pan one and a half 
inches deep lined with a pie paste, filled with 
apple marmalade, top crust put on, baked and 
glazed, served with sweetened and flavored 
cream, or with whipped cream. 

APPLE TIMBALE— A timbale mold lined with 
strips of short paste, filled with apple marma- 
lade, covered with a crust, baked or steamed 
till paste is set, turned out, served with apricot 
sauce, and garnished with preserved cherries. 

APPLES GLAZED— Cored and peeled apples 
of an even size simmered in lemon syrup till 
just done, taken out, placed on a dish, the 
syrup reduced till thick, then poured over the 
apples; when cooled, decorated with angelica 
and cherries. 

APPLE FLORENTINE— Apples cored and sim- 
mered till half done, in syrup, taken out, 
drained, the core hole filled with sweetened 
rice, the outside coated with a vanilla flavored 
chestnut puree; made hot again in oven and 
served with a sprinkling of chopped pistachio 
nuts. 

APRICOTS ON TOAST— Stewed apricots on 
sweetened toast, garnished with whipped cream 
(called apricots au crouton). 

APRICOTS AND RICE FRITTERS— Half an 
apricot, the other half formed of rice croquette 
mixture, put together, breaded, fried and 
served with apricot sauce (called apricots a la 
Colbert). 

APRICOTS WITH RICE— Stewed or canned 
apricots in syrup, bordered with sweetened 
rice, whipped cream over the apricots, sprink- 
led with chopped pistachio nuts (called apricots 
a la Conde). 

APRICOT BAVAROISE— Stiff apricot marma- 
lade with whipped cream containing a little 
gelatine mixed in, filled into molds, set till firm, 
turned out on a dish, and the edge piped around 
with whipped cream. 

APRICOT CHARLOTTE— A pan or mold lined 
with lady fingers, strips of buttered bread or 
toast, filled with stewed apricots, covered with 
the same material as the lining, baked, turned 
out, and served with a fruit sauce 

APRICOT COBBLER— (Sometimes called "Ap- 
ricots D'Artois.") Two sheets of puff paste 
baked, one spread with apricot marmalade, the 
other laid on top, then cut in squares, diamonds 
or with a fancy shaped cutter, the edge orna- 
mented with piped meringue, dried in the oven 
to a straw color, the centre of top decorated 
with jelly. 

APRICOT COMPOTE— Apricots simmered in 
thick syrup till done, served with the syrup 
they were cooked in. 

APRICOT CHARTREUSE— A centre jelly mold 
decorated at bottom with stiffened cream, sides 
coated with jelly, halves of cooked apricots fan- 



cifully placed around the mold, these again 
coated with jelly, the mold then filled with 
jelly, set, turned out, and the centre filled with 
Bavarian cream. 

APRICOTS IN CASES— Fresh apricots halved, 
stoned, simmered in raspberry syrup, served 
in rice cases with angelica sauce. 

APRICOT FRITTERS— Halves of apricots or 
spoonfuls of apricot marmalade laid on a thin 
circle of paste, another circle placed on top, 
edges pinched together, trimmed, fried till done. 
Also halves of apricots laid in diluted brandy 
and sugar for half an hour, then dipped in 
batter, fried, dusted with sugar, and served 
with a syrup sauce. 

APRICOT PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS— 
Very light patty shells, nearly filled with apri- 
cot marmalade, finished by filling and decorat- 
ing with whipped cream. 

APRICOT MARMALADE OR JAM— Raw ap- 
ricots stoned and rubbed through a sieve. To 
every oound of the pulp is added ten ounces 
of sugar with a few of the kernels blanched 
and skinned; boiled till thick enough to coat 
a spoon. 

APRICOT SHERBET— Apricots boiled in syrup; 
when done rubbed through a fine sieve, the 
syrup and pulp then poured into a freezer and 
frozen; when nearly done, a flavoring of mar- 
aschino and some whipped whites of eggs are 
added, then frozen five minutes. 

APRICOT SAUCE — Water, sugar, apricots, 
lemon juice and a little grated orange rind, 
boiled, thickened with corn starch, then rubbed 
through a fine strainer. 

APRICOT TARTLETTES — Small tartlette 
molds lined with puff paste, filled with apricot 
marmalade, baked; when done, the edges dec- 
orated with crystalized cherries, and the center 
piped with whipped cream. 

APRICOT OMELET— Beaten eggs with a flavor- 
ing of vanilla made into an omelet, the inside 
enclosing some apricot marmalade or compote, 
omelet then placed on dish, dusted with sugar, 
marked with a hot wire, or glazed under a sal- 
amander. 

ARTICHOKES — Are of two kinds, the green or 
globe, and the Jerusalem. The globe is some- 
times used for salads, and served with a French 
dressing hot with pepper; also boiled plain and 
served with any of the sauces appropriate to 
cauliflower. The Jerusalem resembles a rough 
knobbly potato. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS BRAISED — Arti- 
choke bottoms filled with chicken forcemeat, 
braised, served on a crouton, with a rich brown 
or mushroom sauce poured around. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH FORCE- 
MEAT — Artichoke bottoms spread with a puree 
of onions and rice mixed together, filled up with 
forcemeat, sprinkled with grated cheese and 
breadcrumbs, arranged in a pan, moistened 
with consomme and browned in the oven. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Served with cream onion sauce around (called 
Artichokes a la Soubise.) 

ARTICHOKE EOTTOMS WITH FOIE GRAS 
— Artichoke bottoms spread with a mixture of 
foie-gras and minced truffles, covered with a 
reduced white mushroom sauce, grated bread 
crumbs sprinkled over, then browned in the 
oven; served with a truffle sauce poured around, 
(called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la Strasbourg.) 

ARTICHOKE FRITTERS —Cooked artichoke 
bottoms seasoned, breaded, or dipped in batter 
and fried in very hot lard; or mashed Jerusa- 
lem artichokes mixed with egg yolks, and sea" 
soned with nutmeg, taken up by spoonfuls and 
fried. 

ARTICHOKE CHIPS — Jerusalem artichokes 
peeled and cut into very thin slices with a Sara- 
toga chip cutter, placed in cold salted water for 
an hour, taken up a few at a time, dried, then 
fried in very hot fat, drained, sprinkled with 
salt. 

ARTICHOKES AU GRATIN— Same as arti- 
chokes scalloped. Artichoke bottoms cut in 
slices and mixed with Bechamel sauce, may be 
used. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH RAGOUT— 
Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of 
diced truffles, mushrooms, tongue and breast 
of chicken, all mixed with Allemande sauce, a 
thin layer of chicken forcemeat placed on top f 
sprinkled with grated bread-crumbs and cheese, 
then browned, (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la 
Montglas.) 

GLOBE ARTICHOKES, COLBERT SAUCE— 
Globe artichokes trimmed and the choke re" 
moved, parboiled in salted water, drained' 
cooled, then arranged in a sauce pan with a 
little butter, white wine and consomme; sim- 
mered till done and glazy; served with Colbert 
sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la 
Lyonnaise). 

GLOBE ARTICHOKES STUFFED— Globe ar- 
tichokes trimmed and the choke removed, the 
bottoms fried quickly in olive oil for three min- 
utes, turned over and the leaves fried a minute, 
taken up and drained, the interior filled with a 
savory stuffing of meat, herbs and bread-crumbs; 
arranged in a sautoir, then covered with thin 
slices of bacon, equal parts of white wine and 
consomme, simmered till tender, taken up, 
drained, the braise reduced to a glaze, skimmed 
and added to an Italian sauce; served with the 
sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la 
Barigoule). 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH ONIONS— 
Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of fried 
onions, bread-crumbs, and Parmesan cheese, 
sprinkled with lemon juice, then browned in 
the oven; served with a brown sauce poured 
around (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a l'ltalienne). 

SCALLOPED ARTICHOKES— Jerusalem arti- 
chokes cut to shape of oysters, boiled in salted 



5 

water till tender, taken up and drained, then 
put in scallop shells or dishes, covered with an- 
chovy sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese and 
bread-crumbs, then browned in the oven. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS STUFFED —Arti- 
choke bottoms filled with forcemeat, covered 
with supreme sauce, sprinkled with grated 
cheese and bread-crumbs, browned in the oven, 
and served with sauce Supreme (called Fonds 
d"Artichauts a la Supreme.) 

ARTICHOKE OMELET— Thin strips of the 
tender part of the globe artichoke seasoned 
with salt and pepper, lightly fried in butter, 
drained, added to beaten eggs containing chop- 
ped parsley, made into an omelet; served with 
cream sauce poured around the omelet. 

ARTICHOKES WITH EGG— Artichoke bot- 
toms boiled, served on toast, garnished with 
quartered hard boiled eggs, and maitre d'hotel 
butter poured over the artichokes. 

ARTICHOKES BOILED — Globe artichokes, 
the tips of the leaves cut and the bottoms 
rounded, the stalk removed and the under 
leaves trimmed away; well washed and soaked 
in salted water for an hour, placed in boiling 
salted water, and boiled rapidly till tender, 
taken up, drained, the choke removed, served 
with melted butter, or sauces appropriate to 
cauliflower. 

ARTICHOKES, FAMILY STYLE— Jerusalem 
artichokes peeled and trimmed to the shape of 
pears with a flat bottom, boiled in salted water 
till tender; a dish of mashed potatoes, arti- 
chokes placed around it point upwards, and a 
boiled Brussels sprout placed between each 
artichoke. 

ARTICHOKE SOUP — Globe artichokes par- 
boiled in salted water, the choke, edible part 
and leaves rubbed through a sieve, the puree 
thus obtained one part; cream of chicken soup, 
one part; onion cream sauce one part, all in- 
corporated, and boiling milk added to obtain 
the desired consistency of thin cream. 

ARTICHOKE AND ONION SALAD — Arti- 
choke bottoms and onions both cooked and 
sliced, dished alternately, garnished with cooked 
beets and carrots cut with a fancy cutter; served 
either with French dressing or salad cream. 

ARTICHOKE AND TOMATO SALAD— Cooked 
artichoke bottoms and raw sliced peeled toma- 
toes, same size as the bottoms, arranged alter- 
nately on dish, sprinkled with French dressing 
containing chopped chervil. 

ASPARAGUS— Is of two kinds, the red and 
green; the red is large, thick and full; the green 
is smaller, with a whitish stalk and green head, 
of delicate flavor. 

ASPARAGUS STEWED— Asparagus heads, also 
the tender part of the stalks cut into inch 
lengths, blanched, drained, then simmered till 
tender in a butter sauce, finished by adding a 
liason of egg yolks and cream. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ASPARAGUS, SAUCE HOLLANDAISE— As- 
paragus heads with all the tender part of the 
stalk attached, boiled in boiling water contain- 
ing a small piece of common washing soda and 
salt till done, a piece of toast placed on a dish, 
the asparagus stalks resting on the toast with 
the heads in the dish, Hollandaise sauce poured 
over the heads. 

ASPARAGUS — Cooked like the preceding may 
also be served with plain melted butter, cream, 
veloute, mousseline or bechamel sauce; also, 
after cooking, allowed to become cold, and 
served without toast, but with either tartare 
vinaigrette or mayonnaise sauce. 

ASPARAGUS OMELET — Asparagus tips 
blanched and drained, then fried lightly in 
butter, surplus butter poured off and a little 
cream sauce added; omelet mixture containing 
chopped parsley formed, enclosing a spoonful 
of the asparagus, placed on a dish and a spoon- 
ful of asparagus placed at each end. 

ASPARAGUS POINTS WITH QUENELLES 
— Asparagus points and about two inches of 
the stalk boiled, drained, laid on toast, bord- 
ered with small quenelles of chicken, and Hol- 
landaise sauce poured over the tips. 

ASPARAGUS SOUP— Asparagus heads blanched 
drained and lightly fried with minced shallots 
in butter, then laid aside, the stalks boiled in 
veal or chicken broth till tender, a little white 
roux added, then rubbed through a sieve and 
mixed with equal parts of veloute and cream 
sauce, brought to a simmer, the heads now 
added and served. 

ASPARAGUS PUREE— Asparagus points and 
the tender part of the stalks blanched and 
drained, lightly fried in butter with some 
minced shallots, green onions, parsley and a 
little sugar, turned into chicken broth, brought 
to a boil, thickened with white roux, the whole 
rubbed through a sieve, spinach juice added to 
help give a greenish color, seasoned and 
served. 

ASPARAGUS SALAD— Two inch lengths with 
the head of cold boiled asparagus served on a 
leaf of lettuce with a cream salad dressing. 

ASPARAGUS AND SALMON SALAD — A 
spoonful of ice cold salmon en mayonnaise gar- 
nished with asparagus tips in French dressing 

ASPARAGUS AND CAULIFLOWER SALAD 
— Cooked cauliflower in flowerets garnished 
with asparagus tips, served sprinkled with 
chopped capers and cream salad dressing. 

ASPARAGUS PATTIES — Cooked asparagus 
heads and mushrooms in equal parts mixed 
with veloute sauce, patty shells filled with the 
mixture, tops placed on; served with a sauce 
mousseline poured around the base. 

ASPARAGUS WITH CHEESE— Cooked aspar- 
agus heads seasoned with salt and pepper, 
placed in a vegetable dish, equal parts of butter 
and grated parmesan cheese pounded together 
with a seasoning of cayenne pepper and lemon 



juice, the asparagus covered with the cheese 
and butter, browned in the oven and served. 

ASPIC — The name given to a clear savory jelly 
made from meat, and is used to decorate en- 
trees, pies, hams, tongues, game, pigs' heads, 
salads, prawns, vegetables, fish, etc. 

ASPIC JELLY— Plenty of veal knuckles, calf's 
feet boned and blanched, and a fowl or two are 
covered with clear water, fetched slowly to a 
boil, skimmed, a little cold water then added, 
again brought to the boil and skimmed, carrots, 
onions, celery, parsley, a little garlic, bay 
leaves, thyme, mace and whole peppers are 
then added and simmered slowly for six hours, 
fat taken off, then strained through a consomme 
towel, allowed to become quite cold and all fat 
removed, then placed over a quick fire, brought 
to the boil, skimmed, removed to cool off a 
little; while cooling, gelatine at the rate of two 
ounces to the gallon is added; some lean veal 
is now chopped fine and mixed with some whip- 
ped whites of eggs and egg shells, also a bottle 
of white wine, this mixture poured into the 
cooling stock and allowed to come to a slow 
boil; when just at boiling point a little ice water 
containing lemon juice is put in, and as soon 
as coagulation takes place it is drawn to one 
side and allowed to simmer slowly for an hour 
longer, then strained through a jelly bag and 
set away for use. 

ATELETTE — Is a skewer generally made of 
silver or plated metal, and is used to decorate 
hot and cold pieces for banquet tables; combi- 
nations on the skewer according to the dish 
and the fancy of the cook can be made of cocks- 
combs, button mushrooms, crayfish, prawns, 
animelles (lamb-fries) carrots, turnips, green 
peas, parsley, truffles, sweetbreads, crystallized 
fruits, preserved violets, cherries, strawberries, 
sweet jelly, aspic jelly, etc., etc. 

ATTEREAUX — Is a skewer generally used for 
cooking dishes en brochette (see brochette). 

BABA — A light yeast raised cake containing 
fruit and almonds, generally served as dessert 
with a rum sauce. 

BAKING POWDER — Is better made than 
bought; the following receipt is cheap and 
effective: five pounds of tartaric acid, eight 
pounds of bi-carbonate of soda, sixteen pounds 
of potato flour, mixed and rubbed through a 
fine sieve. By the addition of a quarter of an 
ounce of turmeric to eight pounds of baking 
powder you produce EGG POWDER, which 
saves eggs and gives richness of color. 

BANANA — Semi-tropical fruit that grow in bun- 
ches sometimes six feet in length and contain- 
ing four to five hundred bananas, that, when 
ripe, change either to a bright yellow or purple 
red color. The yellow are esteemed for their 
flavor, while the red are best for cooking, as 
they are more firm. The merchants in selling 
the fruit, fix the price according to the number 
of HANDS the bunch contains A hand is a 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



section on the stalk and contains, according to 
the size of the fruit, from ten to twenty bananas. 
Bananas may be bought in a green state much 
cheaper than when ripe. When bought green, 
the way of ripening is to hang the bunches up 
in a dark room, and subject them to a steady 
heat of seventy-five degrees. 

BANANA FRITTERS— Bananas cut slantwise 
in halves, laid for a while in diluted brandy 
and sugar, then dipped in batter and fried in 
plenty of hot fat, taken up, drained, rolled in 
powdered sugar, and serve with a fruit sauce. 

BANANAS BAKED— Bananas split in halves 
lengthwise, laid in a buttered pan, dusted with 
powdered sugar, browned quickly in the oven; 
served with a cocoanut syrup sauce. 

BANANAS FRIED — Bananas split in halves 
lengthwise, dipped in milk, then rolled in flour, 
fried in clear butter to a golden brown; served 
with currant jelly. 

BANANA COMPOTE— Bananas cut in quarters 
slantwise, simmered in syrup till done; served 
on a bed of sweetened rice, with the syrup 
poured over them. 

BANANA ICE CREAM— Bananas peeled and 
rubbed through a fine sieve; added to the cream 
to be frozen at the rate of one pound of pulp to 
the gallon. 

BANANA SALAD — Alternate slices of bananas, 
peeled oranges, and dessicated cocoanut are 
placed in a fruit dish till full, over which is 
poured enough brandy and rum mixed with 
sugar to just moisten the salad. 

BACON — Is known as salted and dried. The 
salted is generally used as boiling bacon, and 
the dried, which is subsequently smoked, is 
generally used for frying and broiling. In select- 
ing bacon discard any with yellow fat. Good 
bacon is red in the lean and the fat is white and 
firm. * * * Bacon fat is better than butter for 
many things that have to be fried, such as liver, 
veal chops, onions for curry, etc., is also used 
instead of olive oil with potato salad, lettuce 
salad, combination salad, etc. * * * Bacon is 
appropriate boiled with cabbage, kraut and 
string, wax and haricot beans; it is an improve- 
ment to an omelet, and is the proper thing to 
eat with liver, eggs and fowls. 

BAIN-MARIE — A foreign culinary term for a 
hot water bath in which are kept the pots or 
saucepans containing sauces, garnitures, en- 
trees, soups, etc., that require to be kept hot 
without reaching the boiling point. 

BALLOTINE — Is the name given to a chaud- 
froid of poultry, game, foie-gras, spring lamb, 
etc., is made by mincing the flesh and forming 
it into forcemeat, then stuffing small boned 
birds such as larks, quails, snipe, woodcock, 
squabs, etc., cooking them and serving them 
cold. Sometimes the forcemeat is stuffed into 
the skin of a turkey leg, sewn up, cooked, 
shaped like a ham; when cold, one end is 
masked with a brown sauce, the other with a 



white sauce, imitating a ham skin; they are 
then ornamented with aspic jelly, atelettes, etc. 

BARAQUILLE — Is the foreign culinary term for 
a patty or vol-au-vent filled with a mince of 
veal, chicken, partridge, truffles, small game, 
fresh mushrooms, sweetbreads, etc. 

BARBECUE— Means an animal roasted whole; 
although in recent years the word has been 
applied to gatherings at places where an animal 
roasted whole and served to the guests is the 
principal feature of the party. 

BARON OF BEEF — One of the olden-time 
dishes of Great Britain's banquet tables, the 
term applied to two short loins of beef left 
whole, resembling a saddle of mutton. 

BASIL — The name of a favorite herb used in 
seasoning turtle soup. Cloves resemble it in 
taste and flavor, and since the herb is as a rule 
hard to procure, even in the large cities, the 
clove does duty for it in a very creditable 
manner. 

BAGRATION— The name applied through a for- 
eign medium to a few dishes, principally soups 
that are composed of a medley of fish and vege- 
tables. 

BARLEY— A grain used by brewers in malting; 
generally found on the market in two sizes or 
qualities known as Scotch and Pearl. The 
Scotch is larger and has the inner husk left on ; 
the Pearl is smaller and completely freed from 
husk, which makes it better adapted for culi- 
nary use; chiefly used in soups and gruels. 

BASS — A well known species of fish, especially 
adapted for culinary purposes on account of its 
shape and size as well as its firm meat and deli- 
cate flavor. There are four or five principal 
kinds chiefly used, the Black, Striped, Sea, 
Silver, and Spotted, of which the Black stands 
first. 

BASS BROILED— The fish is chosen of as near 
a pound in weight as possible, if for club or 
restaurant use: scaled, trimmed, seasoned, 
scored slantwise, rolled in flour, brushed with 
melted butter or olive oil, broiled; served with 
a slice of broiled bacon, a spoonful of melted 
butter, slice of lemon, and a garnish of parsley. 
If used as a course of a dinner, before broiling 
it is filleted into portion pieces. 

BASS FRIED- -Prepared as the preceding, ex- 
cept it is not scored; fried a golden brown, and 
served as if broiled, or with tomato, anchovy 
or Genevoise sauces. 

BASS BOILED— Scaled, trimmed, cut into por- 
tion pieces, placed into boiling water contain- 
ing slices of carrot and onion, bay leaves, whole 
peppers, salt and a dash of vinegar; served 
with either butter, cream, parsley, shrimp, an- 
chovy, oyster or hollandaise sauces; sometimes 
served with green peas. 

BASS BAKED— Scaled, trimmed, (left whole for 
restaurant and cut in portions if for hotel use), 
placed in pan, seasoned with wine, broth, oil, 
salt, pepper and minced shallots, sheet of oiled 



8 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



paper put over, baked; when nearly done, 
equal quantities of parsley and espagnole sauces 
added to the pan; the fish served with the 
sauce, (called, Bass a la Conde). 

BASS BRAISED— Prepared as the preceding, 
placed in pan or sautoir containing slices of 
carrot, onion, celery and parsley, with enough 
Bordelaise sauce to moisten the fish, braised 
slowly till done; served with the sauce and 
garnished with shrimps, (called, Bass a la Bor- 
delaise). 

BASS BRAISED— The fish cut into fillets, larc- 
ed, braised in equal parts of tomato and bech- 
amel sauces; when cooked, the sauce poured 
into saucepan, and added to it some puree of 
mushrooms, lobster roe, sliced truffles and 
sauterne wine; the fish served with the sauce, 
and garnished with fish quenelles, (called, bass 
a la Chambord). 

BASS SAUTE— The fish prepared as for frying, 
rolled in flour, and fried plain; a little gravy 
made in the pan the fish was fried in with flour 
and fish broth, and served with the fish, gar- 
nished with fancy potatoes, (called bass a la 
Meuniere). 

BASS CROQUETTES— Cold cooked bass with 
the skin and bones removed, then picked and 
put in a thick fish cream sauce, seasoned with 
anchovy essence, salt, pepper and grated nut- 
meg, allowed to become cold, shaped into cro- 
quettes, breaded, fried, and served with either 
tomato, bordelaise, genoise or anchovy sauces, 
garnished with parsley and sliced lemon. 

BATTER — A consistency of flour and liquids 
used to dip foods in before frying; also a pan- 
cake and pudding mixture. The following 
fritter batter is used for frying any foods of a 
plain nature: a pound of flour is gradually 
moistened with a half pint each of milk and 
water, added to which is the whipped whites 
of four eggs and half a cup of melted butter. 

BATTER for frying sweet foods and fruits is 
made of a pound of flour, a heaping teaspoonful 
of baking powder and half cup of sugar mixed 
together dry, then moistened with a cup and a 
half of milk and two beaten eggs. 

BATTER for frying vegetables is made of a 
pound of flour seasoned with salt, moistened 
with a pint of milk, one beaten egg, and a 
spoonful of olive oil. 

BATTER for French pancakes is made of a 
pound of flour very gradually moistened with a 
quart of milk and sixteen beaten eggs, the 
grated rind and juice of one lemon and a seas- 
oning of salt. This batter is fried in small 
HOT frying pans, very thin, tossed over, 
spread with preserves, rolled up and sprinkled 
with powdered sugar. They are also called 
JENNY LIND PANCAKES. 

BATTER for Swiss pancakes is made of six oun- 
ces of flour gradually moistened with six beaten 
eggs and a quart of milk with a seasoning of 
salt; they are fried like the preceding, but 



prior to tossing them over they are strewn with 
steamed currants. Served currant side up with 
powdered sugar, not rolled. 

BATTER for Yorkshire pudding is made of three 
quarters of a pound of flour gradually moistened 
with three pints of milk, nine beaten eggs, and 
half a cup of melted butter; one teaspoonful of 
salt and two of baking powder is beaten in just 
before putting into oven. 

BATTER for wheat griddle cakes is made of a 
pound of flour, one ounce of baking powder, 
two beaten eggs, three cups of milk, a little 
melted butter, sugar and salt. 

BATTER for corn griddle cakes is made of half 
a pound each of wheat flour and corn meal 
mixed dry with a little salt and one ounce of 
baking powder, then moistened with a pint 
each of milk and water, two beaten eggs, a little 
syrup and two table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

BATTER for flannel griddle cakes is made of a 
pound of flour, a quart of water and a small 
cake of yeast, this is set to rise; when risen, 
two eggs, two ounces of melted lard, a little salt 
and syrup are beaten in, allowed to rise again 
before baking. 

BATTER for graham griddle cakes is made the 
same as for corn, except using graham flour for 
the corn meal. 

BATTER for rice griddle cakes is made of a pint 
each of sifted flour and dry boiled rice mixed 
together with a little salt, one teaspoonful of 
baking powder, moistened with half a pint of 
milk, three eggs and a little syrup. 

BATTER for buckwheat cakes is made of self- 
raising buckwheat flour prepared according to 
the directions given on the package; or one 
pound of buckwheat flour moistened with a pint 
and a half of warm water with enough yeast 
added to raise it; when risen, a little salt, syrup 
and melted lard or butter is beaten into it, and 
sometimes a little corn meal is appreciated. 

BAY LEAVES— The leaf of the laurel tree dried 
and used in seasoning soups, sauces, etc.; they 
resemble in taste and flavor, bitter almonds. 

BEANS — One of the most nutritious foods that 
can be used; the varieties most used are the 
lima or butter bean, the white haricot or navy 
bean, the red and the black haricot, the flag- 
eolet or kidney bean. 

LIMA BEANS BOILED— The dried beans are 
soaked in water for a few hours, then boiled 
till tender, drained, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and butter, or mixed with cream sauce If 
canned beans are used they are first washed 
from their can liquor, then heated and seasoned 
as above; if fresh beans are used, they are put 
to boil in boiling water containing salt and a 
small piece of common washing soda; when 
done, drained, and seasoned as above. 

LIMA BEANS SAUTE— The beans either dried, 
fresh or canned are prepared up to the season- 
ing point of the preceding receipt, then placed 
in pan containing either small pieces of cooked 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



bacon or salt pork, or just plain melted butter, 
then thoroughly tossed and heated in the pan, 
seasoned; sometimes they are sprinkled with 
finely chopped parsley before serving. 

LIMA BEANS SALAD— Either dried, fresh or 
canned beans boiled till tender; when cold they 
are mixed with a cream, hollandaise or mayon- 
naise salad dressing and served on a bed of 
lettuce. 

LIMA BEANS PUREE— Soaked dried beans 
put to boil with a piece of salt pork in white 
stock containing onions, carrots, parsley, and 
whole mace; when cooked the pork and vege- 
tables removed, the beans and stock rubbed 
through a fine sieve, then placed in a clean 
saucepan, brought to the boil, seasoned, a little 
flour and water thickening added to prevent 
coagulation; served with small toast. 

LIMA BEANS, cream of — Equal parts of the 
finished puree of the preceding, and cream or 
veloute sauce, made hot separate, then thor- 
oughly mixed without further boiling. 

FLAGEOLETS or kidney beans are obtainable 
in cans or in the dried state. The average 
patron does not know what a flageolet is, hence 
the call for them at table is small; but most 
people know what a kidney bean is, and if put 
on the bill of fare as such, the demand will be 
gratifying to the cook. 

KIDNEY BEANS IN CREAM— Poulette, espag- 
nole or veloute sauces. The beans if canned, 
washed from the can liquor; if dried they are 
soaked, then boiled tender, drained and re- 
heated in any of the four sauces above men- 
tioned. 

KIDNEY BEANS, GERMAN STYLE— Soaked, 
boiled and drained dried beans, or canned ones 
washed off, then heated and tossed in butter, 
seasoned with salt and pepper with a little 
summer savoury; a few salted herrings skinned 
boned and cut into small pieces, either mixed 
with the beans, or served as a garnish to them. 

KIDNEY BEANS, FRENCH STYLE— Soaked, 
boiled and drained dried beans, or canned ones 
washed off, a little minced onion and garlic 
lightly fried in olive oil to a golden brown color, 
oil poured off, beans put in with some chopped 
parsley, tossed together with the onions, then 
moistened with veloute sauce, brought to the 
boil, seasoned and served. 

KIDNEY BEANS, ENGLISH STYLE — The 
cooked beans, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
butter, sprinkled with chopped parsley and 
served. 

KIDNEY BEANS, PANACHES — The word 
panaches means mixed. Cold cooked kidney 
beans mixed with equal parts of cold cooked 
navy or lima beans, are heated with a litrie 
butter, and seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped 
parsley and served. Another mixture is made 
of equal parts of cold cooked string beans (green ) 
and wax beans (yellow). 

HARICOT BEANS, BOSTON STYLE — More 



often placed on the bill of fare as "baked pork 
and beans." The beans are washed and soaked 
over night; into the bean jar is put some black 
nolasses, salt, pepper and dry mustard, these 
are well mixed, cold water is then added to 
thin the mixture; the soaked beans now placed 
into the jar filling it two-thirds full, a piece of 
scored, or slices of salt pork is placed on top 
of the beans, jar filled with water, lid placed 
on, and put in a slow oven and baked till done; 
should be served with steamed brown bread. 
The more common way, however, that pork and 
beans are cooked, is to soak them over night, 
place them on to boil in the morning, when at 
boiling point they are skimmed, and the salt 
pork put to boil with them, when done the pork 
removed and cut in slices, the beans put into 
pans, seasoned, sometimes colored with caramel, 
the slices of pork arranged on top of the beans, 
sprinkled with sugar and placed in the oven till 
browned. 

HARICOT BEANS WITH BACON— The cold 
beans are nicely fried with butter or bacon fat, 
seasoned with salt and pepper with a little sage, 
then served with a slice of broiled bacon. 

HARICOT BEANS PUREE— Soaked beans put 
to boil with salt pork in white stock containing 
carrots, onions, celery or celery seed or salt, 
parsley and whole mace; when done the pork 
and vegetables removed, the beans and stock 
rubbed through a fine sieve, then placed in a 
clean saucepan, seasoned, a little flour and 
water thickening added to prevent coagulation, 
served with small toast. 

HARICOT SOUP, FAMILY STYLE— Prepared 
same as the preceding, but instead of the beans 
being rubbed through a sieve, they are left 
whole in the soup, and the vegetables and pork 
cut up very small, returned to the soup and 
served with it, along with small toast. 

BEAN PUREE WITH ONIONS— Is the puree 
above but considerable onions boiled in the 
stock, and rubbed through the sieve with the 
beans, (called, puree of beans, a la Soubise). 

HARICOT BEANS, CREAM SAUCE — Cold 
boiled haricot beans with a flavoring of salt 
pork, mixed into a white cream onion sauce, 
seasoned with nutmeg, made hot, but not re- 
boiled. 

RED HARICOT BEANS— Are mostly used as 
a garniture to salt leg of boiled pork. They are 
soaked, boiled with the pork, drained, placed 
in a saucepan, white wine added, then reduced 
to a glaze with a ladle of consomme; served 
with the pork in conjunction with small glazed 
onions. 

BLACK BEANS WITH RISSOTO— The beans 
soaked and boiled with bacon; when done, the 
bacon cut up small and mixed with the drained 
beans, then moistened with Spanish sauce, 
seasoned with anchovy butter, made hot again 
and served garnished with rissoto. 

GREEN AND WAX BEANS— Are best suited 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



for culinary use when served as a plain vege- 
table boiled in salted water with the cover of 
the saucepan OFF. The beans have the strings 
removed, then shred or cut across; when boiled, 
drained, moistened with a little consomme, and 
seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, (time of 
boiling 15 to 35 minutes according to age). 

BEEF — For culinary purposes is of two kinds, 
the steer and the cow. Steer beef is superior 
and the flesh should be of a bright red marble 
with yellow fat, and a thick outside layer of 
fat under a fine grained skin; the lean should 
be firm and elastic when pressed with the fing- 
ers; the suet should be dry and crumble easily. 
Cow beef is of closer grain, the fat is white in- 
stead of yellow, and the flesh of a darker red, 
BULL beef is sometimes worked off on the 
unwary by the packing houses when shipping 
to distant cities, especially so in the form of 
tenderloins; it is large, coarse, very dark in 
color, and unfit for table use. 

BEEF a la MODE — Any piece of solid beef, 
preferably the silverside of the round, is larded 
with seasoned strips of larding pork, then laid 
in dilute vinegar containing slices of carrot, 
turnips and onions with whole spices, for sev- 
eral hours. It is then taken out and quickly 
roasted in oven to get the outside seared, then 
placed in saucepan, covered with a piquante 
sauce, lid of saucepan put on, then gently sim- 
mered till tender; served in slices with a gar- 
nish of braised vegetables and some of the 
sauce it was cooked in, (also called, "pot roast" 
and "sour pot roast.") 

BEEF STEW, GERMAN STYLE — Cold beef 
a la mode is cut into small pieces and heated in 
a sour sauce; served garnished with potato 
pancakes. 

BEEF ROAST — Preferably the set, or seven ribs 
from the shoulder to the loin is for hotel use. 
The lower end of the ribs, called SHORTRIBS, 
should be roasted with another pan over the 
top, sb as to become more juicy and tender 
than by roasting them open. The usual accom- 
paniment to roast beef is some of the pan or 
dish gravy with a slice of Yorkshire pudding, 
while for the shortribs a little grated horse- 
radish and browned potatoes is best. 

BOILED BEEF— The best pieces for boiling 
are the flank, brisket, and short ribs, they 
should be boiled tender with a flavoring of veg- 
etables, and served with horseradish sauce, 
cream sauce and carrots or suet dumplings, or 
mixed vegetables such as carrot, turnip, onion, 
cabbage and potato. 

CORNED BEEF— Flank, short ribs, brisket or 
rump of beef is put to soak in brine made of 
twenty-five pounds of salt, twelve ounces of 
rock saltpetre, two pounds of sugar and fifteen 
gallons of water, all boiled together, skimmed, 
cooled, the beef then put in with a cover on 
and a weight on that to keep the beef under 
the brine, (ready for use in a week to ten days). 



BOILED CORNED BEEF— The meat put to 
boil in cold water, scum taken off as it rises, 
then allowed to simmer till tender (about four 
hours) served in slices with cabbage, parsnips, 
carrots, sometimes with all three vegetables; 
also with suet dumplings; sometimes with a 
brown sauce and garnished with brussels 
sprouts. 

SPICED BEEF— A whole flank of beef with 
bones, gristle and inner skin removed, laid out 
flat, outside skin downwards, then rubbed with 
a mixture of salt, ground pepper, mace, allspice, 
cloves and ginger; rolled up and tied, then put 
to soak for ten days with some pickle from the 
corned beef brine to which is added whole 
cloves, peppers, allspice and bay leaves. When 
to be cooked, it is taken from the pickle, wiped 
dry, dipped in fat that is near cool so as to take 
on a good coating, then rolled in a dough made 
of plain flour and water, placed in a medium 
oven and slowly baked (five to six hours). If 
to be served hot, cut in slices and serve with 
piquante sauce and garnish with small cut vege- 
tables. If to be served cold, as is generally 
done, the dough is left on till thoroughly cold, 
or till to be served; even for a month it will 
not spoil if the dough is not disturbed. Served 
cold in thin slices garnished with pickles. 

ALL SALT, CORNED OR SMOKED MEATS 
IF SIMMERED TILL DONE, INSTEAD 
OF QUICK BOILING, and allowed to cool in 
the water they were simmered in, will be found 
always more juicy and tender, and capable of 
longer keeping. 

DRIED BEEF— The thick flank is the part gen- 
erally used; divided lengthwise in its natural 
section, it is put in a pickle of salt, saltpetre, 
sugar and molasses for two weeks, then hung 
up and smoked like hams, (also called smoked 
beef). 

CHIPPED BEEF IN CREAM— Very thin slices 
or shavings of dried beef, blanched, drained, 
and mixed into cream sauce or reduced cream. 

SCRAMBLED BEEF WITH EGGS— Very thin 
slices of dried beef, again cut into strips like 
short matches, blanched, drained, mixed with 
beaten eggs and a little milk, scrambled around 
in a pan with a little butter till eggs are set, 
served either plain, or on toast. 

FRIZZLED BEEF ON TOAST— Very thin sli- 
ces of dried beef, blanched, drained, then 
tossed with frothing butter over a quick fire; 
served on toast. 

SMOKED BEEF WITH SPINACH — Dried 
beef put to boil in cold water, scum taken off 
as it rises, then simmered till tender; served in 
slices on a bed of spinach. 

SMOKED BEEF SANDWICHES — Very thin 
slices of dried beef placed on thin slices of but- 
tered brown bread, rolled up like fingers. 

BRISKET OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES 
— Lean brisket of beef boned, placed in sauce- 
pan with carrot, onions, turnip, celery, parsley, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



thyme, bay leaves, whole cloves and mace, 
covered with stock, saucepan cover put on, 
simmered till tender, taken up and placed on 
baking pan, little gravy poured over, put in 
quick oven till gravy has glazed the meat; 
served in slices with glazed vegetables and 
brown sauce. 
FLANK OF BEEF, ENGLISH STYLE— Lean 
flank of beef that has been in corned beef brine 
for a few days, is washed, then put to boil in 
cold water with carrots, onions, and celery; 
after coming to the boil, skimmed, then sim- 
mered till tender, taken up and glazed in oven 
like the preceding, served in slices with a suet 
dumpling, brussels sprouts, shaped piece of 
carrot and turnip, a boiled onion, and some 
piquante sauce poured around. 
GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH MACAR- 
ONI — Lean short ribs of beef larded through 
the lean with seasoned strips of larding pork; 
put in sauce pan with carrot, onion, celery, 
parsley, whole cloves and mace with a little 
garlic, covered with consomme and sherry wine, 
cover put on, then simmered till tender, meat 
then taken up, the liquor strained, skimmed, 
and reduced, half of which is taken to moisten 
some boiled and drained macaroni, mixed with 
grated Parmesan cheese. The beef served in 
portions, garnished with the macaroni, and a 
spoonful of the remaining glaze poured over 
the meat, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la 
PIEMONTAISE). 
GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH VEGE- 
TABLES — The lean short ribs of beef cooked 
same as in the preceding receipt, served in por- 
tion pieces, garnished with glazed shapes of 
carrot, turnip, onions and artichokes, with a 
little of the glaze poured over the meat, (called, 
BRAISED BEEF a la BOURGEOISE). 
GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH POTATO 
CROQUETTES — Lean short ribs of beef 
larded through the lean with strips of seasoned 
larding pork; put in a sauce pan with a few 
shallots, half a cup of fresh grated horseradish, 
parsley and green onions, the meat barely cov- 
ered with consomme to which is added a bottle 
of Rhine wine, then simmered till tender and 
glazy; when done, meat taken up, the liquor 
strained and skimmed, little red currant jelly 
and grated orange rind added to it and reduced; 
the meat served in portion cuts, with a little of 
the glaze poured over, and garnished with po- 
tato croquette mixture rolled into small balls, 
dipped in beaten eggs, then in flour and fried 
very quickly in hot fat (called, BRAISED 
BEEF a la BADEN-BADEN). 
BRAISED BEEF, GERMAN STYLE — A top 
sirloin of beef larded slantwise with strips of 
seasoned larding pork, put in sauce pan with 
carrot, onions, celery, parsley, bay leaves and 
a few caraway seeds, barely covered with stock 
and simmered till tender and glazy, then taken 
up, the liquor strained, skimmed and reduced 



to glaze, the meat served in slices with a little 
of the glaze and garnished with sauerkraut and 
small shaped potatoes boiled and sprinkled 
with parsley butter (called, BRAISED BEEF 
al'ALLEMANDE.) 
BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF, GARNISHED 
— The braised sirloin of the preceding, but the 
caraway seeds omitted in the seasonings; when 
done is served in slices and garnished with 
stoned olives, mushrooms, truffles, cockscombs 
and kernels, green peas and small pieces of 
sweetbreads, all made hot in the glaze with the 
addition of a little Espagnole sauce (called, 
BRAISED BEEF a la FINANCIERE). 
BRAISED BEEF WITH RAVIOLIS— Top sir- 
loin of beef larded, put in sauce pan with car- 
rot, onions, celery, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, 
allspice, garlic, claret wine and enough con- 
somme to barely cover the meat, simmered till 
tender and glazy, taken up, liquor strained, 
skimmed and reduced to a glaze; meat served 
in slices with some of the glaze and garnished 
with small molds of boiled macaroni sprinkled 
with Parmersan cheese and small raviolis, 
(called, BRAISED BEEF a la MILANAISE). 
BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH QUE- 
NELLES — -Top sirloin larded and braised with 
vegetables, spices and consomme; served in 
slices and garnished with a ragout of small 
quenelles of poultry or game, cockscombs and 
kernels, and slices of braised poultry livers 
(called, BRAISED BEEF a la RICHELIEU). 
BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS — Top sirloin larded and braised with 
vegetables, spices and consomme; meat taken 
up when done, the liquor strained and skimmed, 
sherry wine and Espagnole sauce added to it; 
meat served in slices, garnished with fried 
mushrooms, and sauce poured around. 
BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH TRUF- 
FLES — Top sirloin larded and braised, meat 
taken up when done, the liquor strained, skim- 
med, Madeira wine added to it and reduced; 
meat served in slices, garnished with a ragout 
of truffles, diced sweetbreads, and small veal 
quenelles (called, BRAISED BEEF a la GOD- 
ARD). 
BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH RICE CRO- 
QUETTES — Top sirloin larded and braised, 
meat taken up, liquor strained and reduced to 
a glaze, meat served in slices with some of the 
glaze poured around, and garnished with small 
croquettes of rice that have been seasoned with 
savory herbs and meat glaze, (called, BRAISED 
BEEF a l'ORSINI). 
BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH SPRING VEGE- 
TABLES — Top sirloin larded and braised, 
taken up when done, liquor strained, skimmed 
and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices 
with it, and garnished with glazed carrot, onion, 
brussels sprouts and red or green cabbage, 
(called, BRAISED BEEF a la FLAMANDE) 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH STUFFED PO- 
TATOES — Top sirloin larded and braised, 
taken up when done, liquor strained, skimmed, 
and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices 
with it, and garnished with potatoes that have 
been cut out with the largest size potato scoop, 
centre taken out of the potatoes with a column 
cutter, blanched, drained, the holes filled with 
a savory forcemeat, then baked till done and 
brown with butter, (called, BRAISED BEEF 
alaBIGNONNE). 

BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH HORSERADISH 
— Top sirloin larded and braised, taken up 
when done, the liquor strained, skimmed and 
added to it is Espagnole sauce, red currant 
jelly, horseradish, grated lean ham, port wine 
and Harvey sauce; it is then rapidiy boiled 
down to glaze; meat served in slices with some 
of the sauce, and garnished with steamed arti- 
choke bottoms, filled with grated fresh horse- 
radish, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la NAPOL- 
ITAINE). 

BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH STUFFED TO- 
MATOES — Top sirloin larded and braised, 
taken up when done, the liquor strained, skim- 
med, and mixed with Espagnole sauce, minced 
fried mushrooms and sherry wine, then rapidly 
reduced to a glaze; the meat served in slices 
with some of the sauce, and garnished with 
stuffed tomatoes and stuffed glazed onions, 
(called, BRAISED BEEF a la PRO VENCALE) 

TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS — Tenderloin roasted with some sliced 
vegetables in the pan, mushrooms lightly fried 
in butter, then put into a rich brown sauce 
containing sherry wine; the meat served in 
slices and garnished with the mushrooms in 
sauce. 

TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH VEGE- 
TABLES - -Tenderloin trimmed, larded and 
braised, the liquor strained, skimmed and 
mixed with a rich brown sauce containing sherry 
or madeira wine, reduced to a half glaze; car- 
rots, turnips and celery are cut into neat pieces, 
boiled separately in white consomme with a 
little sugar and butter, when done strained and 
mixed together with some French peas; meat 
served in slices with some of the sauce and gar- 
nished with the vegetables (called, FILLET 
OF BEEF a la JARDINIERE). When the 
vegetables are cut into minute squares and 
diamonds it is (called, a la PRINTANIERE) 
When the vegetables are scooped out with a 
medium sized scoop it is (called, a la PARIS- 
IENNE). When taken out of cans or cut in 
very small fancy shapes and mixed with French 
string beans cut small and flageolets it is (called 
a la MACEDOINE). When carrots, turnips, 
celery, leeks and onions are cut in strips like 
matches, it is (called, a la JULIENNE). When 
the Julienne vegetables are mixed with a Hol- 
landaise, Allemande or yellow cream sauce it is 
(called, a la NIVERNAISE). 



[It is optional with the cook whether he adds 
asparagus points and small flowerets of cauliflower 
to the above groups of vegetables, it is still a 
simple garniture of vegetables, appropriate to 
either braised or roasted tenderloin, understood 
by the guest when written in plain English, and 
often uncalled for and consequently left over 
when the "a la" is attached. Any of the fore- 
going garnitures given to braised sirloins, apply 
equally to braised tenderloins of beef and need 
not be repeated under the heading of tenderloin; 
also the vegetable garnitures above given are 
equally appropriate to braised sirloins of beef.] 
TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, SAUCE BEAR- 
NAISE — Tenderloin trimmed and larded is 
either braised or roasted with vegetables; served 
in slices with Bearnaise sauce. 
TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CUSTARDS 
— Tenderloin larded and either braised or 
roasted with vegetables, served in slices with a 
half glaze containing Madeira or Malaga wine. 
Garnished with slices or small molds of cus- 
tards made of stirred yolks of eggs mixed with 
very small cut vegetables of various colors and 
a little consomme; this vegetable custard is 
then poured into a pan or small mold and 
placed in a pan containing water, then, with a 
sheet of buttered paper over the mold, the pan 
is put in the oven and the custard cooked, 
(called, FILET a la TALLEYRAND). 
TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CEPES— 
Tenderloin trimmed, larded, and either braised 
or roasted with vegetables; the cepes drained 
from the oil in the cans, cut into slices, lightly 
fried in butter, taken up and added to a rich 
brown sauce, served with slices of the meat. 
TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH ARTI- 
CHOKES— Tenderloin trimmed, larded, and 
either braised or roasted with vegetables, served 
in slices, garnished with artichoke bottoms 
filled with a ragout of truffles, mushrooms and 
strips of smoked tongue (called, FILLET OF 
BEEF a la BAYARD). 
TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH STUFFED 
PEPPERS — Tenderloin larded and roasted, 
served in slices with a little Andalusian sauce 
poured around, and garnished with a stuffed 
tomato at one end, and a stuffed green pepper 
at the other, (called, FILLET OF BEEF a 
l'ANDALOUSE). 
TENDERLOIN STEAK, BORDELAISE — 
Steak broiled and served with a brown Borde- 
laise sauce, or with some finely minced shallots, 
garlic and parsley fried in oil and butter, with 
lemon juice added at the finish; garnished with 
chips. 
TENDERLOIN STEAK, PARISIAN POTA- 
TOES— Steak broiled and served with some 
maitre d'hotel butter poured over it and gar- 
nished with Parisian potatoes. 
TENDERLOIN STEAK, SAUCE BEARNAISE 
— Steak broiled and served with Bearnaise 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



13 



sauce at one end, and Julienne potatoes with a 
sprig of parsley at the other. 

FILLETS OF BEEF WITH STRING BEANS 
— Tenderloin steaks larded on one side, broiled, 
served with French string beans made hot in 
maitre d'hotel butter at one end, and a slice of 
fancy toast at the other. 

FILLETS OF BEEF, SAUCE PROVENCALE 
— Tenderloin steaks larded on one side, broiled, 
served with some provencale sauce poured 
around the steak, and a small stuffed tomato at 
each end. 

TENDERLOIN STEAK SAUTEED, WITH 
PEPPERS— Steak sauteed in butter; minced 
green peppers fried in butter, drained, mixed in- 
to brown sauce, served around the steak with a 
stuffed green pepper at each end, and some 
neat slices of pimentoes decorating the top of 
the steak. 

TENDERLOIN STEAK, SAUCE PERIGUEUX 
— Steak broiled, served with sauce perigueux 
poured around it, top of steak decorated with 
slices of truffles, a few chip potatoes at one end 
of the dish, and a fancy crouton with a sprig of 
parsley at the other end. 

HAMBURG STEAK WITH ONIONS— Minced 
raw beef and onions seasoned with salt and 
pepper, mixed thoroughly and formed into fiat 
balls or steaks, fried in butter till done, served 
either plain or with a sauce. 

TOMATOED HAMBURG STEAK — Minced 
raw beef and solid meat of the tomatoes sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, thoroughly mixed 
and formed into steaks; either broiled or fried 
in butter; served with tomato sauce poured 
around. 

SALISBURY STEAK WITH GRILLED PO- 
TATOES — Minced raw beef seasoned with salt 
and pepper made into form of steaks, either 
broiled, or fried in butter; served garnished 
with sliced broiled potatoes (plain or sweet) 
and some maitre d'hotel butter on the steak. 

SALISBURY STEAK WITH MUSHROOMS— 
Prepared and cooked same as the preceding; 
served with some fried mushrooms at one end 
of the dish, and chip potatoes at the other. 

ENGLISH BEEF SOUP— Pieces of raw beef 
cut small, with carrots, turnips, onions and 
celery cut in dice, placed in soup pot with 
butter and lightly fried, flour then added and 
stirred to form a roux, moistened with boiling 
beef stock; when about half done, pearl barley 
is washed and added to the soup, also some 
whole allspice, peppers, cloves, thyme and bay 
leaves tied in a piece of muslin; when the soup 
is finished, the spices removed, seasoned with 
Worcestershire sauce and chopped parsley. 
SOME COOKS ARE IN THE HABIT OF 
PUTTING TOMATOES IN THIS SOUP, 
WHICH IS DECIDEDLY WRONG. 

BEEF BROTH WITH CELERY— Into the soup 
pot is placed plenty of roast beef bones and 
clear gravy with slices of carrot, onions, roots 



and trimmings of celery; filled up with strong 
beef stock, simmered till done, strained and 
skimmed; meanwhile celery cut in inch strips 
like matches is fried lightly in butter, then sim- 
mered till tender and added to the soup. 

SCOTCH BEEF SOUP— Prepared exactly the 
same as "English beef soup" above, except 
using Scotch oatmeal (procurable anywhere) 
instead of pearl barley, and adding Madeira 
wine at the finish. 

BEEF BROTH WITH RICE— Prepared as for 
"beef broth with celery," but after the broth 
is strained and skimmed, allowed to boil up 
again, thickened lightly with corn starch, and 
well washed boiled rice added with a seasoning 
of walnut catsup. 

BEEF BOUILLON WITH CRUSTS — Plenty 
of cold roast beef bones and clear gravy put 
into the soup pot with some chopped fresh beef, 
NO SPICES, but a carrot and onion; filled up 
with good beef stock, simmered for several 
hours, then strained through a consomme cloth, 
skimmed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
served with small toast. Also served plain in 
cups with a thin slice of lemon. 

OX TAIL, THICK— Prepare the "bouillon" 
above; ox tails cut in slices half inch thick, 
carrots and turnips cored out with large sized 
column cutter and sliced to resemble the tails 
but thinner, all placed with sliced onions in 
soup pot and fried lightly with butter or beef 
drippings, flour added to form a roux, moistened 
with the boiling bouillon, simmered till done, 
skimmed, seasoned with salt, pepper, Worces- 
tershire sauce and sherry wine. 

OX TAIL CLEAR— Prepare the "bouillon" 
above and place it on the fire with some trim- 
mings of carrot, turnip, onions and celery, also 
the thick and thin ends of the tails that have 
been previously browned in the oven, simmered 
till done, then strained and clarified, the middle 
part of the oxtails cut in slices with carrot and 
iurnip to match, boiled separately in consomme 
till tender and glazy, added to the clarified 
broth with sherry wine. 

BEEF CROQUETTES WITH PEAS— A strong 
roast beef gravy thickened with roux and sea- 
soned with Worcestershire sauce is then reduced 
till thick, cold roast or other cooked beef is cut 
very small and stirred into the boiling sauce; 
when thoroughly heated through it is turned 
into a pan about an inch deep, smoothed with 
a knife, covered with a sheet of buttered paper 
and allowed to become cold, then divided into 
pieces of the size required, rolled into finger 
lengths, breaded and fried, served in twos laid 
slantwise across the dish, seasoned green peas 
placed between them, and mushroom sauce at 
each end, with croquette frills stuck in the cro- 
quettes if used. 

BEEF COLLOPS WITH MUSHROOMS — 
Cold cooked beef is trimmed and cut in circles 
size of a dollar but thicker, made hot in a thick 



M 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



rich beef gravy; served overlapping each other 
down the centre of the dish, with some fried 
mushrooms in sauce down both sides, and a 
fancy crouton at each end. This dish may also 
be served with a garnish of green peas, kidney 
beans, French string beans, mixed vegetables, 
small quenelles or fancy potatoes. 
BEEF CAKES WITH EGG— Cold cooked beef 
minced and seasoned with salt and powdered 
savory, moistened slightly with roast beef gravy, 
made into cakes like Hamburg steaks, placed 
in pan with a glazy gravy poured over them; 
when thoroughly heated, served with a poached 
egg on top, and some thick roast beef gravy 
poured around. 
BEEF CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE 
— The "beef croquette" mixture above, when 
cold formed in the shape of veal chops, using a 
piece of macaroni to imitate the bone; when 
shaped, rolled in flour, then dipped in beaten 
egg and fried in hot dripping; served with 
Piquante sauce poured around. 
BEEF RISSOLES— Cold cooked beef minced 
three parts, grated bread crumbs one part, 
mixed and seasoned with herbs, grated lemon 
rind, salt and pepper, bound with raw yolks of 
eggs, made into shapes and size of eggs, breaded 
and fried; served with a mound of mashed po- 
tatoes in the centre of dish, a rissole at each 
end and side, with some thickened roast beef 
gravy poured around, and a sprig of parsley put 
into the potatoes. This dish may also be served 
with kidney beans, green peas, French string 
beans or mixed vegetables instead of the pota- 
toes. 
BEEF RISSOLETTES— Same as the preceding 
but made smaller, served and garnished the 
same way. 
BEEF PATTIES WITH MUSHROOMS— Cold 
cooked tender beef cut into small dice, mixed 
and made hot in a rich brown mushroom sauce, 
filled into patty shells; served with some fried 
mushrooms in sauce poured around. 
BEEF STEAK AND MUSHROOM PIE— 
Pieces of raw beef cut about an inch square 
three parts, button mushrooms (fresh or can- 
ned) one part, mixed; baking dish lined on the 
sides with short paste, meat and mushrooms 
put in with a little flour, salt, pepper, a minced 
onion and savory herbs, filled up with water to 
just cover the meat, top crust put on, brushed 
over with beaten egg and milk, put in slow oven 
and gently baked. 
BEEF STEAK AND OYSTER PIE— Same as 
the preceding, but omitting the mushrooms and 
using scalded oyster liquor instead of water; 
when to be served, a few blanched oysters kept 
hot in a brown sauce placed with each portion. 
BEEF STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE— Same as 
"beef steak and mushroom pie" but using pieces 
of blanched beef kidney instead of the mush- 
rooms. 
BEEF POT PIE— A rich beef stew (white or 



brown) with vegetables, served with a dumpling 
and sprinkled with parsley; or the stew placed 
in a pan, soft dumpling mixture dropped in 
pieces all over it, put in oven and baked; or 
the stew left in the saucepan, dumpliugs put in, 
cover put on, then gently simmered till dump- 
lings are cooked. 
BEEF PAUPIETTES, MUSHROOM SAUCE 
— Thin slices of cold cooked beef, trimmed to 
shape of envelope with the flap open, spread 
with a cooked forcemeat composed of minced 
bacon, chopped parsley, grated lemon rind, 
salt, pepper and savory herbs, rolled up from 
the broad end to the point, this pinned with a 
toothpick, dipped in a thin batter and fried, 
toothpick then removed; served with a rich 
mushroom sauce poured around. 
SCALLOPED BEEF WITH OYSTERS— Small 
pieces of beef already made tender in a brown 
stew seasoned with anchovy essence; oysters 
scalded and mixed with the stew, placed in 
scallop shells or dishes, sprinkled with bread 
crumbs and Parmesan cheese, baked in oven 
and served. 
DEVILLED BEEF WITH OYSTERS— Cold 
cooked tender beef cut in finger lengths an inch 
wide and half inch thick, laid in a mixture of 
salt, pepper, olive oil and Worcertershire sauce 
for an hour, then lightly fried in butter, sprink- 
led with parsley; served on slices of buttered 
toast same size as the meat alternately with 
broiled oysters, and Diable sauce poured 
around. 
CURRIED BEEF WITH RICE— Either raw or 
cooked beef rolled in flour, then fried in butter 
with minced onions; when lightly browned, put 
in sauce pan with butter, flour and curry pow- 
der, stirred and moistened with white stock, 
boiled up, skimmed, then simmered with the 
addition of a grated green apple, lemon juice 
and a little chutney; when done, the meat re- 
moved to another saucepan, and the sauce 
strained over it; served with a border of dry 
boiled rice. 
MINCED BEEF WITH EGG— Either minced 
or finely cut cold cooked beef seasoned with 
savory herbs, salt and pepper is made hot in 
rich roast beef gravy, just enough to moisten 
the meat only being used; served with a fancy 
border of mashed potatoes, the mince in the 
centre, and a poached egg on top of the mince. 
ROAST BEEF HASH— Minced onion lightly 
fried in butter added to finely cut roast beef 
two parts, and minced cold potatoes one part, 
mixed together, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
powdered marjoram with a very little roast 
beef gravy; the whole then tossed together, 
placed in a pan and baked; or kept in a sauce- 
pan over a slow fire till thoroughly heated; or 
portions put into a frying pan, browned on both 
sides, then formed into shape of an omelet; 
served either with or without a fried or poached 
egg, and with a crouton at ends of dish. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



i5 



CORNED BEEF HASH— Prepared, (onion op- 
tional) cooked, and served the same way as 
"roast beef hash" above, but omitting the herb, 
and using corned instead of roast beef. 
SPICED JELLIED BEEF— Leg of beef freed 
from all bone, cut up in two inch pieces, put to 
boil in cold water, all scum taken off as it rises, 
then gently simmered till the meat falls to 
pieces; the liquor then strained from the meat, 
put to boil again for half an hour with savory 
herbs, salt and pepper, then strained, skimmed 
from all fat, and while cooling a very little gel- 
atine dissolved in it, the meat shredded and 
added to it, poured into molds to get perfectly 
cold and firm; served in slices garnished with 
thinly sliced green pickles. 
POTTED BEEF FOR SANDWICHES —Lean 
roast or other cold cooked beef trimmings three 
parts, cold corned lean beef one part, minced 
fine, then pounded to a paste with two ounces 
of cold boiled bacon to each pound of beef, 
season with salt, pepper, ground mace and a 
very little anchovy essence; when in paste form, 
weigh it, then work in melted butter at the rate 
of two ounces to the pound; after thoroughly 
mixing, the paste is put away in jars with a 
one-quarter of an inch of melted butter poured 
over the top to seal them from air, (this mixture 
kept sealed will keep many weeks without 
spoiling.) 
TOURNEDOS OF BEEF WITH OLIVES— 
Cold cooked beef tenderloin trimmed to a pear 
shape, slices of stale bread trimmed the same 
way, both cut in slices half an inch thick, the 
bread fried, the meat made hot in a Piquante 
sauce; served on the toast, garnished with 
slices of stoned olives, and the sauce poured 
around. 
MIROTON OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES 
— Cold cooked tender beef cut in circular pieces 
two inches in diameter and half an inch thick, 
sliced onions par-boiled, then fried a golden 
color in butter, the meat arranged in a pan and 
just covered with a brown Italian sauce, the 
onions spread over the whole, placed in oven 
and baked till the sauce is reduced to a glaze 
with a buttered paper over the onions; the cir- 
cles, with the onions still on them, served gar- 
nished with a mixture of small cut cooked vege- 
tables in brown sauce, and a fancy crouton at 
each end of the dish. 
EMINCE OF BEEF WITH PEAS— Thin slices 
of tender cooked beef about the size of half 
dollars, made hot in a rich thickened roast oeef 
gravy, served overlapping each other down the 
centre of the dish and the green peas as a 
border. 
SCALLOPS OF BEEF, SAUCE TRIANON— 
Evenly cut thin slices of cold cooked beef ten- 
derloin sauteed with minced shallots in butter; 
served overlapping each other down the centre 
of dish, with a sauce Trianon down each side, 
and a fancy crouton at each end of the dish. 



TENDERLOIN WITH BLOOD GRAVY — 
Thick tenderloin steak placed between two in- 
ferior steaks, then broiled till done, the tender- 
loin served on a hot dish with the gravy of the 
other two squeezed over it, garnished wit fancy 
potatoes, sprigs of parsley, and slices of lemon, 
(called, FILET a la CHATEAUBRIAND.) 

SAUTE OF BEEF, TRUFFLE SAUCE— Small 
tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried in butter, 
served garnished with a crouton at each end of 
dish, and truffle sauce poured around the steak, 
with some slices of truffles on top (called, MIG- 
NONS DE BOEUF AUX TRUFFES). 

SMALL FILLETS OF BEEF WITH OY- 
STERS — Small tenderloin steaks, seasoned, 
then fried in butter, large oysters scalded, then 
tossed quickly over a fire in maitre d'hotel but- 
ter containing a little anchovy essence; the 
fillets served in the centre of the dish garnished 
with the oysters, and their sauce poured around. 

SMALL FILLETS OF BEEF, maitre d'hotel— 
Small tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried 
in butter, served garnished with fancy fried 
potatoes, and maitre d'hotel butter poured over 
the steak. These may also be garnished with 
a mixture of small cut vegetables. 

RAGOUT OF BEEF, CREOLE SAUCE — 
Small pieces of beef simmered till tender in 
tomato sauce containing chopped sweet pep- 
pers, minced shallots, and a small quantity of 
madeira wine and madeira sauce; served with 
the sauce around, and croutons at end of the 
dish. 

BRAISED BEEF TONGUE WITH TOMA- 
TOES — Fresh tongue soaked in cold water 
over night, put on in boiling water and blanched 
lor ten minutes, taken up, root and superfluous 
fat trimmed away, placed in sautoir with carrot, 
onions, celery, parsley, whole cloves and mace, 
covered with stock, and gently simmered till 
tender, then taken up and placed in another 
saucepan, the braise strained, skimmed, re- 
duced to a glaze with the addition of some 
madeira sauce, this poured over the tongue; 
served in slices with some sauce poured around, 
and a stuffed tomato at each end. 

SMOKED TONGUE WITH SPINACH— The 
tongue soaked over night, put on to boil in cold 
water and simmered for an hour, taken up, 
placed in a sautoir with some vegetables and 
covered with stock, then simmered till tender; 
served in slices on a bed of spinach, with ma- 
deira sauce poured around. 

SMOKED TONGUE WITH SAUER KRAUT 
— The tongue soaked over night, put on to boil 
in cold water and simmered for an hour, taken 
up, placed in saucepan with some well washed 
sauer kraut, an onion stuck with cloves, carrot, 
and a bunch of parsley, moistened with stock 
to cover the whole, then simmered till tender; 
served in slices on a bed of the kraut, and gar- 
nished with glazed young carrots, with some 
Poivrade sauce around. 



i6 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CORNED BEEF TONGUE WITH SPINACH 
— The tongue put to boil in cold water and 
simmered till tender, taken up, skinned, and 
kept in hot broth; served in slices on a bed of 
spinach with some Espagnole sauce poured 
around. Brussels sprouts, or a jardiniere or 
macedoine of vegetables, form an appropriate 
garniture to boiled corned tongue; also the 
tongue served plain with either raisin or Hol- 
landaise sauce. 

BOILED BEEF HEART WITH HORSERA- 
DISH — The heart washed and freed from blood, 
boiled till tender in white stock with whole 
mace, carrot and onions; served in slices with 
horseradish sauce poured around, and garnished 
with a small white turnip hollowed out, steamed, 
and filled with grated horseradish, or the tur- 
nip may be boiled with a little carmine in the 
water, giving it a reddish color. 

ROAST BEEF HEART, STUFFED— The heart 
prepared and boiled till tender, as above; taken 
up, drained, the cavities cut out and the space 
filled with a sage and onion stuffing, placed in 
pan with brown sauce poured over it and baked 
till glazy; served in slices on a bed of the stuff- 
ing with some sauce poured around, and gar- 
nished with potato balls at one end and French 
beans at the other. 

BEEF KIDNEY SAUTE— The kidneys cut in 
small pieces, put to boil in cold water, when 
blanched, poured into colander, washed and 
drained, then lightly fried in butter, sprinkled 
with flour, moistened with stock, simmered till 
tender, seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon 
juice; served with a border of potatoes on the 
dish, kidneys in the centre, sprinkled with 
chopped parsley. 

BEEF KIDNEY SOUP- -The kidneys cut small 
and prepared the same way as "kidney saute." 
The soup made of thin Espagnole, the kidneys 
and their sauce added at the finish; served with 
small toast. 

BRAISED OX TAILS WITH KIDNEY BEANS 
— The thick end of the tail is cut into portion 
pieces and placed in saucepan with carrot, 
onions, celery, bay leaves, thyme and parsley, 
covered with stock and simmered till tender 
and glazy, then taken up, the liquor strained, 
skimmed and added to a Madeira sauce, poured 
over the tails; served with a border of green 
kidney beans, and a fancy crouton at each end 
of dish. 

HARICOT OF OX TAILS— The tails cut into 
pieces at the natural joints, fried with onions 
in a saucepan till onions are of a golden color, 
flour added to form a roux, moistened with 
stock, allowed to simmer for an hour, skimmed, 
turnips and carrots cut about size of the joints 
are then added, and simmered another hour, 
then small potatoes of an even size are added; 
when they are done, season with salt, pepper 
and walnut catsup; served, the tails in the 



centre of the dish, garnished alternately with 
the vegetables, the whole sprinkled with chop- 
ped parsley. 

CURRIED OX TAILS WITH SPAGHETTI— 
The tails cut into sections at the joints, fried 
with onions in a saucepan till onions are of a 
golden color, flour and curry powder added, 
shaken together, then moistened with stock, 
simmered till tender, meanwhile adding to the 
sauce a grated green apple, juice of a lemon 
and some chutney; when done, the tails taken 
up into another saucepan and the sauce strained 
over them; served with a border of boiled spag- 
hetti cut in inch pieces, seasoned with Parme- 
san cheese. 

BEEF SAUSAGES — Lean and fat raw beef 
trimmings two-thirds, soaked stale bread that 
is squeezed dry one-third, the meat is put 
through the chopping machine, then mixed 
with the bread and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
sage, thyme and a little farina, the whole is 
then put through the machine again; when it 
has all passed through cold water is added to 
the desired stiffness, the knife taken from the 
machine, filler screwed on; the salted skins 
having been softened in water, are blown and 
drawn on to the filler, meat placed in the ma- 
chine, the skins filled and tied. 

SAUSAGE CAKES WITH POTATOES— The 
sausage meat purchased or made as in the pre- 
ceding recipe, formed into round cakes, and 
either fried or arranged in .a baking pan and 
baked till done; served on a bed of mashed po- 
tatoes with a little brown gravy poured around. 

BEETS — -Are of three colors and kinds red, white 
and yellow; the white is mostly used in produc- 
ing beet sugar, the red for culinary purposes, 
and the yellow for feeding cattle. 

BEET GREENS— The leaves of the young beets 
are washed, put to boil in boiling salted water, 
containing a small piece of common washing 
soda; when done, they are strained, pressed, 
cut up fine, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
butter; served as a vegetable, or after being 
pressed they may be rubbed through a fine 
sieve, and the puree thus obtained, seasoned 
and served the same as spinach. 

PICKLED BEETS — The small smooth beets 
washed and boiled till tender, skinned, cut in 
thin slices, placed in a crock, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, sugar, bay leaves, and covered 
with vinegar. 

BOILED BEETS IN BUTTER SAUCE— Small 
new beets washed and boiled till done, skinned, 
cut in sections like those of an orange, placed 
into the serving crock, and a sauce composed 
of water, butter, salt, white pepper and vine- 
gar, thickened with flour poured over them. 

BEETS FOR GARNISHING— The pickled beets 
above left whole and cut into the form of flow- 
ers, etc., or the slices cut or stamped with fancy 
cutters. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



17 



BEET AND POTATO SALAD— Small balls of 
cooked beets placed in tarragon vinegar; small 
balls of boiled potatoes placed in Ravigote 
sauce; served by arranging them alternately on 
the dish. 

BEET AND EGG SALAD— Slices of pickled 
beetroot and hard boiled eggs, arranged alter- 
nately around a dish, with some pickled white 
onions in the centre; served with cream salad 
dressing. 

BEARNAISE — Name of a sauce used with steaks 
and entrees, composed of minced shallots 
braised with tarragon vinegar, to which is 
added a thin veloute sauce, then some beaten 
yolks of eggs, continually stirred over the fire 
till like custard, removed, melted butter then 
beaten in at the rate of three ounces to the pint, 
seasoned with lemon juice and red pepper, 
strained, finished by adding chopped parsley 
and tarragon leaves. Some cooks omit the 
veloute sauce, and use only butter and egg 
yolks, thus making a kind of butter mayonnaise, 
that will very readily disintegrate if allowed to 
keep hot. 

BECHAMEL — Name of a white sauce composed 
of reduced chicken broth with some essence of 
mushrooms, an equal quantity of rich milk or 
cream, boiled up, thickened with flour and 
butter, seasoned with salt, lemon juice and 
grated nutmeg, then strained for use. 

BENEDICTINE — The name of a liqueur used 
as a cordial, as a flavoring to sauces and con- 
fectionery, in making punches and other drinks; 
it resembles "yellow chartreuse" in flavor and 
appearance, is made principally at the Abbey 
of Fecamp in Europe. 

BISQUE — The French term given to soups made 
of a thick puree principally of shellfish and 
game. 

BISQUE OF CRABS— Half a pound of rice 
boiled to each gallon of soup; when done add 
half a pound of crab meat to each gallon, (good 
crab meat is obtainable any time of the year in 
the form of "McMenamin's canned deviled crab 
meat"), then rub the whole through a fine sieve 
adding a little melted butter and a seasoning of 
nutmeg. Make the stock of thin veloute, add 
the rice and crab puree, bring to a simmer, 
then add sliced okras, minced red and green 
peppers, sliced tomatoes, season with marjoram, 
thyme, red pepper and lemon juice, simmer 
slowly for one hour and serve. 

BISQUE OF CRAYFISH— Use all crayfish if 
you can get them; if not, get a dozen or two, 
which boil in a little water containing salt, 
whole peppers, parsley and onions, cook them 
twenty minutes, drain, cool, pick out meat from 
tails and claws, throw away the intestines, 
pound the rest, shells and head, also some 
boiled fish, lobster and yolks of hard boiled 
eggs to a paste, adding some melted butter; 
boil this paste with a little veal stock for an 
hour till dry, then rub it through a sieve, add 



to it the required amount of good white broth, 
bring to a boil, add the meat cut up from the 
tails and claws, a little lobster coral and serve 
with small toast. 

BISQUE OF HERRING— Equal parts of fresh 
and smoked herrings are boned, skinned and 
boiled with fresh or canned lobster in seasoned 
fish stock; when done, it is rubbed through a 
sieve; the puree then added to a clarified fish 
broth; served with small quenelles of fish and 
small toast. 

BISQUE OF PRAWNS (OR SHRIMPS)— Made 
the same as "Bisque of crayfish" except using 
all prawns or shrimps. 

BISQUE OF LOBSTER— Meat of fresh boiled 
lobsters cut into small squares, the tough parts 
with the shells and claws boiled for twenty 
minutes longer, the coral dried in a slow oven, 
the stock made of Bechamel sauce thinned with 
the water the fish were boiled in, the coral 
then rubbed through a sieve and added to the 
soup giving it a pinkish appearance; finished 
by adding the squares of meat and some small 
quenelles of lobster. 

BISQUE OF OYSTERS— Scalded oysters and 
boiled rice in equal bulk rubbed through a 
sieve, added to a thin cream of oyster soup, 
flavored with mace rnd bay leaves. 

BISQUE OF SALMON— Cooked salmon rubbed 
through a sieve added to stock composed of 
equal parts of court-bouillon and veloute sauce, 
boiled up, seasoned, finished with chopped 
parsley and Sauterne wine. 

BISQUE OF PLOVERS— The plovers braised 
for an hour in madeira sauce, taken up and 
pounded, then rubbed through a sieve; boiled 
farina, enough to thicken the quantity of the 
soup, is rubbed through a sieve, the two purees 
then added to a game stock, boiled up, skimmed, 
seasoned, finished with port wine. 

BISQUE OF PARTRIDGE— Braised or roast 
partridge meat pounded and rubbed through a 
sieve with white bread crumbs and a puree of 
chestnuts, the whole then added to a game-flav- 
ored stock, boiled up, skimmed, seasoned, fin- 
ished with port wine. 

BISQUE OF TERRAPIN — Terrapin shells, 
heads and trimmings simmered in consomme 
for four hours, strained, the meat rubbed 
through a sieve and put back into the strained 
stock with some parsley, thyme, cloves, mace, 
bay leaves, whole peppers and minced onions, 
all tied in a muslin bag, brought to a boil, 
skimmed, an equal quantity of veloute sauce 
added, simmered for a few minutes, finished by 
the addition of some boiling cream. 

BISQUE OF JACK RABBIT— The rabbit cut 
up and braised with spices and vegetables in 
consomme till tender, then pounded and rubbed 
through a sieve, the braise strained, the puree 
put back into it, boiled up, skimmed, equal 
volume of thin veloute sauce added to it, sea- 



i8 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



soned, finished with sherry wine, and served 
with some small quenelles of rabbit. 

BLANCH OR BLANCHED— Foods placed to 
boil in cold water, removed after coming to the 
boil, poured into a colander and well washed; 
and in the case of almonds, etc., the skins are 
then easily removed. 

BLANC MANGE— Milk put to boil, containing 
sugar, grated orange rind, and a few bitter al- 
monds; when boiled, strain into another sauce- 
pan, boiled up again, then thickened with corn 
starch, and poured into molds, the bottoms 
and sides of which may be decorated with crys- 
tallized fruits. After the blanc mange is made 
it may be made into "ribbon cream" by separ- 
ating it into four vessels, coloring one green 
and flavoring it with pistachios, another red 
with a rose flavor, another with some boiling 
chocolate; when filling the molds, the white is 
placed first and the chocolate last. 

BLANQUETTE — A term often used in describ- 
ing a white fricassee of white meats, such as 
sweetbreads, veal, animal brains, spring lamb, 
rabbit, chicken, etc., etc. 

BLACKBERRIES — Also called "dewberries," 
a fruit of the raspberry species, used as a table 
fruit, preserves, made into brandies and 
cordials. 

BLACKBERRIES WITH CREAM— The ber- 
ries picked over, served in dishes with cream 
and powdered sugar. 

BLACKBERRY PUDDING— Picked over black- 
berries 3 quarts, flour 2 pounds, baking soda 
one ounce, New Orleans molasses one quart, 
little salt, the whole mixed together without 
water, put into molds, cover tied on, boiled 
three hours. Served with sauce DOREE com- 
posed of half pound of butter beaten till creamy 
with half pound of powdered sugar, placed 
over the fire and two beaten yolks of eggs 
stirred in; when thick, work in half a pint of 
brandy, and season with grated nutmeg. 

BLACKBERRY CHARLOTTE— Molds or pans 
lined with slices of buttered bread, sides and 
bottoms, then filled with picked over berries, 
seasoned with sugar, covered with slices of 
buttered bread, sprinkled with sugar, slowly 
baked till brown and glazy; served with fruit 
sauce. 

BLACKBERRY TARTLETTES— Small fancy 
molds lined with puff paste with a crimped 
edge, filled with a dry compote of blackberries; 
baked; when done, the centre decorated with 
piped meringue. 

BLACKBERRY COMPOTE— The picked over 
berries put into a boiling syrup and simmered 
till tender; served in small croustades of sweet- 
ened rice. 

BLACKBERRY PIE— Pie plates lined with pie 
paste, berries mixed with sugar and a dusting 
of flour, the plates filled, little baking soda 
sprinkled over the fruit to prevent the juice 



running out, top cover placed on, washed over 
with pie wash, baked, served with small pieces 
of cheese. 

BLACKBERRY SHORTCAKE— Two sheets of 
short paste, spread between with the fruit taken 
from a compote, the upper sheet spread with 
whipped cream and decorated with some fresh 
berries. 

BLACKBERRY JAM— Fresh picked over ber- 
ries mixed with ten ounces of sugar to each 
pound of fruit, gradually brought to a simmer, 
then allowed to cook till fairly thick, or till it 
sets when dropped on a cold dish. 

BLACKBIRDS— Can be obtained nearly all the 
year round of the New York and Chicago game 
and poultry merchants; they are very cheap 
and make useful entrees. 

BLACKBIRDS BROILED ON SKEWERS, 
(en brochette) — The birds drawn, wiped, picked, 
and wrapped round with a very thin slice of 
bacjn, run on skewers, broiled, served on toast, 
garnished with parsley and slices of lemon. 

COMPOTE OF BLACKBIRDS — The black- 
birds picked, drawn, wiped and trussed, then 
quickly browned with butter in a hot oven, 
taken up, placed in a game sauce and simmered 
till tender; served in croustades with some 
sauce poured around. 

SALMIS OF BLACKBIRDS— The blackbirds 
picked, drawn, wiped and trussed, quickly 
roasted, then placed in a game sauce with some 
mushrooms and stoned olives; when done, 
served with a fancy crouton at ends of the dish, 
and the sauce poured over the birds; garnish 
with the mushrooms and olives. 

BLACKBIRD PIE — The blackbirds picked, 
drawn, wiped and stuffed with breadcrumbs 
mixed with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, nut- 
meg and eggs, trussed, quickly made brown in 
the oven, placed in pie dish, covered with game 
sauce and some sliced hard boiled eggs, cov- 
ered with pie paste and baked. 

BLACKBIRDS IN POTATOES— The blackbird 
picked, drawn, wiped and an oyster placed in- 
side, trussed, quickly browned in the oven with 
butter. Evenly peeled potatoes (Irish or sweet) 
split in halves lengthwise, hollowed out, the 
bird placed in, tied with string, baked and 
basted with butter; when the potato is done, 
so is the bird; served with game sauce poured 
around, and fancy croutons at ends. 

BLACKFISH— A black skinned fish of the perch 
species, found plentifully South. 

FRIED BLACKFISH WITH BACON — The 
fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, rolled in flour; 
the bacon fried; the fish then fried in the 
bacon fat; served with a slice of the bacon, 
garnished with chip potatoes, parsley, and a 
slice of lemon. 

BROILED BLACKFISH WITH PARSLEY 
BUTTER — The fish scaled, trimmed, scored, 
brushed with melted butter, seasoned, rolled in 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



19 



flour, brushed again with butter and broiled; 
served with maitre d'hotel butter poured over 
the fish, and garnished with Julienne potatoes. 
BLACKFISH SAUTE WITH FINE HERBS— 
The fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, rolled in 
flour, sauted in butter, then placed in another 
sautoir containing fines herbes sauce, simmered 
for a few minutes, served with some of the 
sauce poured around, and garnished with Par- 
isienne potatoes. 

BAKED BLACKFISH, OYSTER SAUCE— The 
fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, placed in a 
baking pan, brown oyster sauce strained over 
the fish, baked to a glazy appearance; served 
with a brown oyster sauce poured over the fish, 
and garnished with small potato croquettes. 

BOILED BLACKFISH, ITALIAN SAUCE— 
The fish scaled, trimmed and put to boil in 
boiling water containing an onion stuck with 
cloves, slices of carrots, salt, bay leaves and a 
little vinegar, simmered till done; served with 
a white Italian sauce, and garnished with quart- 
ers of small potatoes sprinkled with parsley. 

BLACKDIVER— Name of a wild duck held in 
great esteem by epicures, is at its best in the 
form of salmis, or braised and served with a 
little grated chocolate dissolved in the sauce. 

BLACK COCK— Often seen on "bills of fare" as 
Coq de Bruyere, Heath fowl, Black game and 
Black grouse. 

BRAISED BLACK GROUSE— The bird picked, 
singed, drawn and wiped, the breast larded 
with thin strips of seasoned larding pork; 
placed in a saucepan with some bacon trim- 
mings, carrot, onions, whole cloves and peppers, 
moistened with a game sauce and a dash of 
tarragon vinegar, simmered in the oven till 
tender; when done taken up, the braise strained 
Burgundy wine added to it, then reduced; the 
bird served with some of the sauce poured over 
it, and garnished with small sausage balls. 

BROILED BLACK COCK WITH JELLY— 
The young birds picked, singed, drawn and 
wiped, split down the back, backbone and breast 
bone removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
brushed with butter, broiled; served on toast 
with a sauce made of jelly and butter melted 
and beaten together, poured over the bird, a 
little currant jelly served separate, garnished 
with chip potatoes, and a sprig of parsley. 

SALMIS OF HEATH FOWL— The birds picked, 
drawn, singed and wiped, disjointed, roasted 
lightly; placed in a saucepan with game sauce, 
made from the head, feet, liver, heart, neck 
and gizzard; simmered till tender, seasoned 
with sherry wine and essence of mushrooms; 
served with some of the sauce poured over the 
bird, and garnished with fried button mush- 
rooms. 

ROAST BLACK GAME, BREAD SAUCE— 
The bird picked, drawn, singed, wiped and 
trussed, roasted with a slice of bacon tied over 



the breast, when nearly done, the bacon re- 
moved, the breast dredged with flour and 
melted butter, then browned; served with bread 
sauce, and some of the gravy poured around. 

BLACK PUDDING— Often seen on the bill of 
fare as ' 'Boudin Noir, " they are made of sheeps, 
or pigs' blood and chopped suet, seasoned, 
filled into intestines, smoked, boiled, and when 
cold, served in thin slices as an appetiser. 

BLOATERS — Are smoked herrings, and the best 
are imported from "YARMOUTH" a sea port 
city of England, which city has never found an 
equal rival in this production. 

TOASTED BLOATERS — The head removed 
with the entrails without opening the fish, 
which is done by cutting the neck across the 
back and drawing the entrails with the gills, 
they are then washed in cold water, wiped dry, 
and slowly broiled; served with melted butter, 
garnished with lemon and parsley. 

BAKED YARMOUTH BLOATERS IN SAUCE 
— The fish drawn, then blanched, taken up and 
skinned, the flesh lifted off in fillets free from 
bone, then laid in pan, and covered with a thick 
anchovy sauce containing a little bloater paste, 
sprinkled with grated cheese and bread crumbs, 
baked; served garnished with fancy potatoes. 

YARMOUTH BLOATERS SAUTES— The fil- 
lets prepared as in the preceding, then lightly 
fried in butter, seasoned with red pepper, 
sprinkled with chopped parsley; served on toast 
garnished with lemon and parsley. 

BLUEFISH — A great favorite and in good de- 
mand in any form on the bill of fare, although 
baked or broiled have the most calls; a six 
pound fish cuts to best advantage for restaurant 
use, cutting five good portions; a four to five 
pound fish being too thin for restaurants, but 
just the thing for a course dinner. 

BLUEFISH STUFFED AND BAKED— The 
fish scaled, trimmed, wiped dry and filled with 
a stuffing composed of cooked veal two parts, 
boiled bacon one part, and grated bread crumbs 
one part, the meat chopped fine, then mixed 
with the bread crumbs, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, marjoram, thyme, mace, and lemon 
juice, mixed thoroughly and slightly moistened 
with fish broth; when filled, the opening sewn 
up, the fish dredged with flour and put in a pan 
with carrot, turnip, onion, a few cloves, claret 
wine and consomme; baked; when done, taken 
up, and to the pan is added some Espagnole 
sauce; boiled up, strained; served with some 
of the sauce, and garnished with Duchesse 
potatoes. 

BLUEFISH STEAKS, ITALIAN SAUCE— The 
fish cut into steaks, and arranged in a buttered 
pan containing some minced shallots, white 
wine and mushroom liquor, covered with a 
sheet of buttered paper, baked; when done, 
taken up, some Italian sauce strained into the 
pan, boiled up, and strained back into a rich 



so 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Italian sauce; served with some of the sauce 
poured over, and garnished with Hollandaise 
potatoes. 

BAKED BLUEFISH WITH TOMATOES— 
The fish cut in portions, seasoned, dredged 
with flour, placed in a buttered pan, to which 
is added minced onions, tomato sauce, and a 
can of tomatoes that have been strained from 
their juice; baked; when done, served with 
some of the tomatoes poured around, and gar- 
nished with small potato croquettes. 

BOILED BLUEFISH, SHRIMP SAUCE— The 
fish cut in portions, put to boil in boiling fish 
broth containing salt, peppers, cloves, carrot 
and onion in slices, with a dash of vinegar; 
when done, served with a shrimp sauce poured 
around, and garnished with quartered steamed 
potatoes sprinkled with maitre d'hotel butter. 

BROILED BLUEFISH WITH ANCHOVY 
BUTTER — The fish cut in portions, seasoned, 
dredged with flour, brushed with butter, broiled; 
when done, served with some anchovy butter 
on top of the fish, and garnished with chip po- 
tatoes, parsley, and a slice of lemon. 

BAKED BLUEFISH WITH FINE HERBS— 
The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, dredge with 
flour, arranged in buttered baking pan, covered 
with a fines-herbes sauce, baked; served with 
some of the sauce poured around, and garnished 
with potatoes chateau. Bluefish prepared as 
in the recipe just given, may also be served and 
baked with Piquante, Bordelaise and Tomato 
sauces. 

BLUEFISH SAUTE, ADMIRAL SAUCE— 
The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, dredged with 
flour, fried in butter; when done, taken up, and 
into the pan they were fried in, some butter 
sauce is added, boiled up, and strained into 
another sautoir containing minced fried shal- 
lots, capers, grated lemon rind, and pounded 
anchovies; boiled, skimmed, the fish served with 
the sauce poured around, and garnished with 
Conde potatoes. 

BLUEFISH SAUTE WITH ANCHOVIES— 
The fish cut into portions, seasoned, dredged 
with flour, fried in butter, taken up; into the 
pan is then put some minced shallots; when 
browned, anchovy paste and lemon juice added, 
with a little Bordelaise sauce, boiled up, 
strained; served with some of the sauce, and 
garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

STUFFED FILLETS OF BLUEFISH— The 
fish filleted and cut in portions, seasoned, 
dredged with flour, quickly broiled on the cut 
side, the broiled part spread with a thick 
veloute sauce containing grated ham, minced 
fried shallots, mushrooms and chopped parsley; 
when all are spread, placed skin side down in 
a buttered baking pan, with a little white wine, 
baked; served with parsley sauce poured around 
and garnished with potato quenelles. 

BAKED BLUEFISH IN CRUMBS— The fish 
cut into portion pieces, seasoned, arranged in 



a buttered baking pan, moistened with anchovy 
sauce, sprinkled with grated bread crumbs and 
melted butter, baked; served with anchovy 
sauce, and garnished with Parisienne potatoes. 

BAKED BLUEFISH, MATELOTE SAUCE— 
The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, brushed with 
butter, arranged in pan, moistened with claret 
wine, baked; when done on one side, turned 
over and browned on the other, then taken up, 
and to the wine in the pan is added some Es- 
pagnole sauce and mushroom liquor, boiled up, 
strained, skimmed, finished with grated nut- 
meg and anchovy butter, the fish served with 
some of the sauce poured around, and garnished 
with Victoria potatoes. 

BOUCHEE — A French word which means 
"mouthful;" it is used to designate certain 
specimens of cookery, both savory and sweet, 
that are filled into puff paste and sponge cake 
patty cases, hence, a Bouchee is a small patty. 

BOUCHEE OF OYSTERS— Oysters scalded, the 
liquor made into a sauce, oysters cut into dice, 
added to the finished sauce, seasoned with 
lemon juice and anchovy essence, filled into 
puff paste patty shells, and served. 

BOUCHEE OF CHICKEN— Breast of chicken 
(cooked) cut into dice, mixed into a rich veloute 
sauce, made hot, filled into patty shells and 
served. 

BOUCHfiE OF GAME— Any cold cooked game 
may be used, and if desired can be so named 
instead of the word "game," the meat cut in 
small squares, and made hot in a sauce approp- 
riate to the game used, filled into small patty 
shells and served. 

BOUCHEE OF FOIE-GRAS— This is served 
cold. The foie-gras is cut into small pieces, 
put into patty shells with limpid aspic jelly, 
and served when set. 

BOUCHEE OF SWEETBREADS— The sweet- 
breads broiled, cut into small squares, made 
hot in a white Italian sauce, the warm patty 
shells filled and served. 

BOUCHEE OF LOBSTERS— Fresh boiled lob- 
ster meat cut in dice, made hot in a Supreme 
sauce, filled into the patty shells and served. 

BOUCHEE WITH RAGOUT— The patty shells 
filled with a mixture of smoked tongue, breast 
of chicken, truffles and mushrooms; all cut 
small and made hot in a Supreme sauce, cover 
put on and served, (called, BOUCHEES a la 
REINE). 

BOUCHEE WITH MARROW — The spinal 
marrow of beef cut in pieces, cooked in a sauce 
Albert, filled into the patty shells and served. 

BOUCHEE WITH GAME PUREE— Tlie patty 
shells filled with a rich puree of any form of 
game, highly seasoned, (called, BOUCHEES a 
la ST. HUBERT). 

BOUCHEE OF CRAYFISH TAILS— The meat 
from the tails of fresh boiled crayfish, cut up 
and made hot in a cream parsley sauce, filled 
into the patty shells and served. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



21 



BOUCHEE WITH SALPICON— Cooked poul- 
try or game cut small, made hot in a rich sauce, « 
filled into the patty shells and served. 

BOUCHEE WITH OX PALATES— The patty 
shell filled with a mixture of small cut pieces 
of braized ox palate and mushrooms, made hot 
in Allemande sauce. 

BOUCHEE OF SARDINES — The sardines 
made into a paste with Gruyere cheese, salt, 
pepper and chili vinegar, mix with a few scald- 
ed oysters cut small, the patty shells filled and 
served, garnished with hard boiled yolks of 
eggs rubbed through a sieve, resembling ver- 
micelli. 

BOUCHEE WITH MUSHROOMS— Slices of 
button mushrooms lightly fried in butter, then 
put into a rich Madeira sauce, made hot, filled 
into the patty shells, and the opening filled with 
a cork made of a mushroom nicely glazed. 

BOUCHEE OF REEDBIRD — The reedbird 
boned, stuffed, braized with wine, taken up. 
glazed, jointed, put in the patty shells, some 
Perigueux sauce poured in and served. 

BOUCHEE OF WOODCOCK— Snipe, Larks, 
Ricebirds and Ortolans, may be prepared and 
served same as the preceding. 

BOUCHEE OF ANCHOVIES— Coiled anchov- 
ies in oil, taken out and drained, Mayonnaise 
sauce beaten with stiff aspic jelly and a dash of 
tarragon vinegar, the anchovies dipped into it, 
and filled into cold patty shells, the top then 
decorated with a cover made of aspic jelly, and 
served. 

BOUCHEE OF SOLE— The sole filleted and 
braised, cut in small pieces, when cold, put into 
the patty shells, limpid fish jelly poured in, the 
top decorated with Montpelier butter and 
served. 

BOUCHEE OF SALMON- -Cold cooked salmon 
in flakes, mixed with Ravigote sauce, filled into 
the patty shells, the top decorated with Mayon- 
naise and studded with capers. 

BOUCHEE OF ORANGES— The patty shell 
used for sweet bouchees is made of a rich stiff 
"lady finger mixture" forced out of a pastry 
bag in rings one on top of the other to the de- 
sired height, sprinkled with pink sugar, baked 
and glazed, the oranges peeled and separated 
in sections, then simmered in an orange syrup; 
when done, taken up and drained, put into the 
bouchees, the top decorated with a flavored 
water icing(called, BOUCHEES a la SEVILLE) 

BOUCHEES OF PLUMS— The shell made as 
in the preceding, the plums peeled, stoned and 
cut in slices, simmered in syrup, taken up and 
drained, put into the bouchees, limpid sweet 
jelly poured in; when the jelly is set, the top 
decorated and served. 

BOUCHEE OF PEACHES— Prepared the same 
as the preceding, substituting peaches for 
plums. Strawberries, cherries and red rasp- 
berries may also be treated this way. 

BOUDIN — The French name for a pudding made 



of meats, game, poultry and fish, in the form 
of cakes or sausages. 

BOUDIN NOIR— Or black pudding, see (black 
pudding). 

BOUDIN OF VEAL— Finely minced veal and 
bacon seasoned with aromatic herbs, then made 
into small sausage shapes, poached in white 
stock, served with a sauce Perigueux, (called, 
BOUDIN DE VEAU). 

BOUDIN OF RABBIT— Same as the preceding, 
substituting rabbit for the veal; served with a 
light game sauce, (called, BOUDIN DE LA- 
PIN). 

BOUDIN OF HARE— Same as the preceding, 
substituting hare for rabbit, (called, BOUDIN 
DE LIEVRE). 

BOUDIN OF FOWL— Cold white chicken or 
turkey meat pounded to a paste with a season- 
ing of nutmeg, salt, red pepper, lemon juice 
and herbs, the paste forced into a skin, plunged 
into boiling white stock till thoroughly heated 
through, taken up, served cold in slices alter- 
nately with slices of black pudding, (called 
BOUDIN BLANC). 

BOULETTES OF GAME— The word boulette 
signifies "ball" and is used very seldom, except 
to describe a garnish. "Boulettes of potatoes" 
are what is better known as potatoes Victoria. 
Boulettes of game are made of a highly sea- 
soned mince of cold game, breaded and fried. 

BOUILLABAISSE — A national soup of the Latin 
race, composed of pieces of fish (boned and 
skinned), garlic, chopped parsley, bay leaves, 
tomatoes, leeks, onions, lobster, savory herbs, 
potatoes, olive oil and saffron, fried, then sim- 
mered till done; served in platefuls with slices 
of toast dried in the oven. 

BROCHETTE — A skewer on which are threaded 
small delicate meats, etc., to be cooked, and 
served with or without the skewer; also used 
by confectioners to thread fruit on before can- 
dying them. 

BROCHETTE OF OYSTERS— Oysters, bacon 
and sweetbreads (optional), the bacon and 
sweetbreads cut in slices same length as the 
oysters, seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered 
thyme and chopped parsley, the oysters and 
sweetbreads dipped in beaten eggs, then rolled 
in fresh grated bread crumbs, threaded alter- 
nately on the skewer with the bacon; when full, 
fried in hot fat, served with some heated to- 
mato catsup, that is seasoned with anchovy 
essence poured around, and garnished with 
lemon and parsley, 

BROCHETTE OF LAMB KIDNEYS — The 
kidneys with the skin removed and split in two 
without quite severing, threaded on the skewer 
flat, quickly broiled for an instant over a hot 
fire, then taken off and seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and ground mint, dipped in veloute sauce, 
then fresh grated bread crumbs, brushed with 
melted butter and broiled over a slow fire till 



22 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



done; served with a sauce Colbert poured 
around. 

BROCHETTE OF SPRING LAMB —Circular 
steaks of the leg of raw lamb, one cutlet of the 
leg making about three steaks, laid for an hour 
in a mixture of minced shallots, chives, mint, 
garlic, lemon juice, nutmeg, melted butter, salt 
and pepper, then taken up, rolled in fresh 
grated bread crumbs, threaded on the skewer, 
broiled till done and served with Colbert sauce 
poured around. 

BROCHETTE OF VEAL— Cold cooked veal and 
boiled ham cut into even sized pieces, the veal 
seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered mar- 
joram, threaded alternately on the skewer, 
breaded, fried, served with white Italian sauce 
poured around, and garnished with watercress. 

BROCHETTE OF DUCK LIVERS— The liver 
is par-boiled, then prepared and cooked the 
same way as "chicken livers" following; served 
with Bigarrade sauce poured around, and gar- 
nished with water cress and lemon. 

BROCHETTE OF CHICKEN LIVERS— The 
livers washed and dried, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, slices of bacon lightly broiled, then cut 
in pieces same size as the livers, the skewer 
threaded with them alternately; when all on 
rolled in melted butter or olive oil, then in 
fresh grated bread crumbs, broiled, served on 
a slice of narrow toast with maitre d'hotel but- 
ter poured over, and garnished with water 
cress. 

BROCHETTE OF GEESE LIVERS— The liv- 
ers boiled in stock till done, then cut into slices; 
smoked cooked tongue the tip end cut in slices 
same size as the livers; both dipped in cooling 
Perigueux sauce; when cold, threaded alter- 
nately on the skewer, rolled in grated bread 
crumbs, then breaded and fried, served with 
Perigueux sauce poured around, and garnished 
with water cress and lemon. 

BROCHETTE OF TURKEY LIVERS — The 
livers blanched, cut in slices, lightly sauteed 
with finely minced shallots, garlic and chives, 
taken up, drained, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and lemon juice, threaded alternately on skewer 
with pieces of half broiled bacon, dipped in 
melted butter, then bread crumbs, beaten eggs 
and bread crumbs again, broiled, served with 
Hanover sauce poured around, and garnished 
with watercress. 

BROCHETTE OF EELS— The eels skinned 
and cut into inch pieces, steeped for an hour 
in equal quantities of olive oil and vinegar, 
with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and thyme, 
then placed on skewer alternately with bacon, 
arranged on a baking pan with some of the 
marinade poured over them; roasted for ten 
minutes, taken up, drained, breaded, fried and 
served with tartar sauce. 

8R0CHETTE OF PIGS' KIDNEYS— The kid- 
neys par-boiled, cut in slices, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and powdered sage; cold boiled 



pickled pork cut in slices same size as the kid- 
neys, threaded alternately on skewer, rolled in 
olive oil, then breaded and fried; served with 
Robert sauce containing a dash of anchovy 
essence poured around, and garnished with a 
small baked and glazed apple. 

BROCHETTE OF MUTTON — Cutlets from 
the leg or loin, cut into even sized pieces, sea- 
soned with a mixture of salt, pepper, cinnamon 
and powdered savory, threaded on skewer, ar- 
ranged in baking pan, moistened with a thin 
tomato sauce, roasted and basted with it; served 
with tomato sauce poured around, and gar- 
nished with chip potatoes. 

BROCHETTE OF MUSSELS — Prepared and 
served the same way as the recipe given for 
"brochette of oysters." 

BROCHETTE OF SWEETBREADS — The 
sweetbreads soaked, blanched, then boiled till 
tender with vegetables and spices, taken up, 
drained, skinned, pressed till cold, cut in pieces, 
then cut circular with the largest sized column 
cutter; slices of cold cooked tongue the same 
way; both dipped in cooling white Italian sauce; 
when cold, rolled in fresh grated bread crumbs, 
then threaded alternately on the skewer; when 
full, breaded, fried, served with white Italian 
sauce poured around. 

BROCHETTE OF SMELTS— A judicious way 
of using up the small smelts; the fish wiped, 
after entrails are drawn, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, rolled in flour, then in beaten eggs and 
fresh bread crumbs, threaded on the skewer 
through the gills, fried in hot fat, taken up, 
drained; served with or without tartar or to- 
mato sauce, garnished with lemon and parsley. 

BROCHETTE OF CALF'S BRAINS — The 
brains soaked, skinned, washed, blanched in 
boiling water containing a little vinegar, taken 
up, drained, cut in even sized pieces; also 
bacon cut the same size; the brains seasoned 
with salt, pepper, nutmeg, powdered thyme and 
chopped parsley, threaded on the skewer alter- 
nately with the bacon, rolled in melted butter, 
then in bread crumbs, broiled, served with 
Ravigote sauce, and garnished with watercress 
and lemon. 

BROCHETTE OF LOBSTER — Cold boiled 
lobster meat cut in pieces and marinaded in a 
mixture of salt, pepper, nutmeg and Worces- 
tershire sauce for an hour, then threaded on 
skewer alternately with the large head of a 
button mushroom, rolled in butter, then in 
fresh bread crumbs, broiled, served with maitre 
d'hotel butter mixed with anchovy essence 
poured around, and garnished with parsley and 
lemon. 

BROCHETTE OF RABBIT— Raw young rab- 
bit meat and cold boiled salt pork cut in even 
sized pieces, the rabbit sauteed in butter with 
fine herbs, taken up and threaded alternately 
on the skewer with the salt pork, seasoned with 
a mixture of salt, pepper and powdered herbs, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



23 



breaded, fried, and served with brown Italian 
sauce poured around. 

BROCHETTE OF TURKEY— Slices of light 
and dark meat of cold cooked turkey, seasoned 
with salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in cool- 
ing Supreme sauce; when cold, rolled in bread 
crumbs, then breaded and fried; served with 
sauce Supreme. 

BROCHETTE OF LAMB FRIES— Prepared, 
cooked, and served the same way as the recipe 
given for "brochette of calf's brains," tomato 
sauce to be used instead of ravigote. 

BROCHETTE OF SCALLOPS— The scallops 
drained, seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped 
parsley, breaded, placed alternately on skewer 
with pieces of bacon fried, served, with Alle- 
mande sauce contaiinng a little lobster coral. 

BROCHETTE OF REED BIRDS— The birds 
picked, drawn, wiped, and trussed with the 
head tucked under the wing, a small ball of 
m&itre d'hotel butter and the liver of the bird 
minced and put inside, threaded alternately on 
the skewer with a piece of cold boiled bacon, 
seasoned, broiled, served on toast and garnished 
with parsley and lemon. 

BROCHETTE OF CRAYFISH TAILS— The 
fresh boiled meat of the crayfish tails, prepared 
and served the same way as the recipe given 
for "brochette of lobster." 

BRINE — A preserving and flavoring mixture of 
salt, spices, saltpetre and water — is the best 
thing to put meats into that are just on the 
turn; after first washing them and rubbing 
them over with powdered charcoal or borax, 
and again thoroughly washing them. For mix- 
ture see "corned beef." 

BRIE — Name of a very rich cream cheese made 
near Paris, France, is of a circular form, an 
inch thick, wrapped in parchment paper, put 
into thin wooden boxes and imported to this 
country; it is, however, very much, and fairly 
well imitated by our own cheese manufacturers. 

BRANDY — A spirit distilled from wines, is clear 
and sparkling. In the year 1878 the vineyards 
of the Charente were devastated by the phyl- 
loxera, causing the annual production, which 
averaged 170,000,000 gallons, to fall in 1898 to 
only 11,000,000; consequently, since 1878, only 
a very small quantity of genuine brandy has 
been shipped to this country, the bulk being a 
blend of grain spirit flavored with brandy. An 
oil distilled from brandy is used with a spirit 
in producing an imitation that is sold as cook- 
ing brandy. 

BRANDY SAUCE— Water, lemon juice, sugar 
and grated nutmeg brought to the boil, butter 
and flour sizzling in another sauce pan, the 
flavored water strained into it, stirring at the 
same time, allowed to simmer for a few min- 
utes, taken from the fire, and brandy to the de- 
sired flavor added. 

BREAD— A combination of flour, salt, sugar, 
water and yeast, mixed, set to rise, kneaded, 



risen again, molded, proved and baked. The 
different kinds of bread on the market is legion, 
and with all sorts of claims, principally for the 
benefit of health and digestion, such as "whole 
meal," "gluten," "aerated," "steamed," "die- 
titic," "diabetic," "buttermilk," "dyspepsia," 
etc., which argument may be based on sound 
doctrine or not, at least, doctors, chemists and 
anylists, are continually arguing the pro. and 
con. of the different claimants as the following 
quotation will show for itself. 

WHITE VERSUS BROWN BREAD— There 
appeared in the St. Bartholomew's Hospital 
report a very interesting communication on the 
relative digestibility of white and brown bread 
by Drs. Lauder, Brunton and Tunnicliffe. 
While the authors admit that, regarded from a 
purely chemical point of view, the nutritive 
value of brown bread is greater than white, 
they maintain that this is not so when consid- 
ered from the physiological side. The authors 
point out that it is absurd to take the mere 
chemical composition as an index of the value 
of food stuff, as a stick of charcoal, the atmos- 
pheric air, a little water, some sea salt, contain 
all the elements of a typical diet. Hence, the 
greatest importance attaches not only to the 
composition, but to the ways in which the var- 
ious constituents are combined so that they 
can be readily and easily assimilated. The 
conclusion that the authors come to is mainly 
that, although brown bread, both on account 
of its large percentage of mineral matters and 
fat forming constituents, is chemically superior 
to white bread, yet these constituents do not so 
readily pass into the blood as in the case of 
white bread, and that, weight for weight, white 
bread is more nutritious than brown. In spec- 
ial cases where there is a deficiency of mineral 
matter, and especially in cases of growing 
children, when large quantities of these are 
required for production of bone and tissue, 
brown bread may be useful, but even in these 
cases, if these mineral salts, and especially 
salts of calcium, are supplied by other means, 
white bread is preferable to brown. 

BRAINS — Of animals are esteemed by the cook 
in producing delicate entrees, and are remuner- 
ative to the proprietor on account of their small 
cost. They must, before cooking, be thor- 
oughly cleansed of the skin and blood that 
covers them; they are easily digested, and fairly 
nutritious. 

SCRAMBLED BRAINS— Pigs, sheep, calf or 
beef brains, as there is scarcely any difference 
in the flavor, being all composed of the same 
material, are cleansed, par-boiled in salted 
water with a dash of vinegar, taken up, drained, 
cut into small pieces, added to an equal volume 
of beaten eggs, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
nutmeg, poured into a pan containing butter, 
and scrambled around till set. Served on toast 
(optional), garnished with croutons and parsley. 



24 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BRAIN FORCEMEAT — Cold boiled brains 
minced, then pounded to a paste with flour, 
egg yolks; seasoned with nutmeg, salt, pepper 
and chopped parsley. 

BRAIN CROQUETTES WITH PEAS— The 
croquettes formed in cone shapes of "brain 
forcemeat" breaded, fried, served with a frill 
stuck into the croquette, and garnished with 
green peas at the ends of the dish, with Alle- 
mande sauce at side 

BRAIN CUTLETS, VILLEROI SAUCE— The 
cutlets size and shape of small lamb chops 
made of "brain forcemeat" with a piece of 
macaroni to represent the bone, breaded, fried; 
served with Villeroi sauce poured around. 

BRAIN CAKES WITH BACON— The cakes 
size and shape of small codfish cakes, made of 
"brain forcemeat" breaded, fried, served with 
a slice of broiled bacon and Bechamel sauce 
poured around. 

ROAST BRAINS WITH FORCEMEAT BALLS 
— Calf's brains par-boiled and trimmed, sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, dipped in melted 
butter, then rolled in flour, quickly roasted and 
basted with butter; served garnished with fried 
balls of "brain forcemeat" and fines herbes 
sauce poured around. 

SCALLOPED BRAINS IN SHELL — Cold 
cooked brains in slices, mixed with a white 
Italian sauce, filled into scallop shells, sprinkled 
with grated cheese and bread crumbs, baked, 
served in the shells (called, CERVEAUX EN 
COQUILLE AU GRATIN). 

BRAINS AND MUSHROOMS IN CASES— 
Cold cooked brains and button mushrooms cut 
in neat pieces, tossed in butter over a quick 
fire to color lightly, then moistened with Su- 
preme sauce; served in fancy paper cases. 

CALF'S BRAINS AND TONGUE, MUSH- 
ROOM SAUCE— The brains par-boiled and 
trimmed, the tongues boiled, skinned, trimmed 
and cut lengthwise, dipped in cooling Piquante 
sauce; when cold, both breaded and fried; 
served with mushroom sauce. 

FRIED BRAINS WITH BROWN BUTTER— 
The brains blanched and trimmed, seasoned, 
brushed with butter, rolled in flour, dipped in 
beaten eggs, then fried; served with brown 
butter poured over them, made by melting 
butter over a quick fire till it froths and browns, 
then adding to it the juice of a lemon and some 
finely chopped parsley (called, CERVEAUX 
AU BEURRE NOIR). 

FRIED BRAINS BREADED, TARTAR 
SAUCE — The brains blanched, trimmed, and 
masked with Tartar sauce, then breaded and 
fried; served with Tartar sauce at the ends of 
the dish, and Parisienne potatoes down the 
sides. 

CALF'S BRAINS, SAUCE VINAIGRETTE— 
The brains blanched, trimmed, and boiled till 
done in white stock, served with Vinaigrette 



sauce, and garnished with parsley. 

BRAISED BRAINS WITH STUFFED TO- 
MATOES — The brains blanched, trimmed, and 
arranged in a sautoir with carrot, onion, pars- 
ley, bay leaves and cloves, moistened with 
white stock, covered with a sheet of buttered 
paper, braised till done, taken up, the liquor 
skimmed and strained into a Veloute sauce, re 
duced, the brains served with some of the sauce 
poured over them, and garnished with small 
stuffed tomatoes. 

BRAISED BRAINS, SAUCE REMOULADE— 
The brains prepared and cooked the same way 
as in the preceding recipe, with the addition of 
a little white wine to the moistening stock; 
when done, the braise skimmed, strained and 
reduced to a glaze, then mixed into a hot Re- 
moulade sauce; served with the sauce poured 
over the brains, and garnished with fancy 
croutons. 

BRAISED BRAINS WITH MUSHROOMS— 
The brains blanched, trimmed, and arranged 
in a sautoir with slices of bacon, vegetables and 
spices, moistened with white stock and juice of 
a lemon, covered with thin slices of bacon, 
braised till done, taken up, tke bacon cut in 
pieces, the braise reduced to a glaze, and 
strained over some button mushrooms and 
small glazed onions, the brains sprinkled with 
fried bread crumbs, and garnished with the 
bacon, mushrooms and onions alternately. 

BRAINS IN SAUCE POULETTE WITH RICE 
— The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
in poulette sauce, served with the sauce poured 
over them and garnished with small timbales 
of rice, with a small sprig of parsley stuck in 
them. 

BRAINS WITH SORREL, SAUCE RAVIGOTE 
— The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
till tender in white stock with the juice of a 
lemon. Served on a bed of puree of sorrel, 
the brains masked with Ravigote sauce. 

CREAMED BRAINS WITH KIDNEY BEANS 
— The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
in cream sauce till done; served masked with 
the sauce and garnished with kidney beans 
(flageolets) that have been sauteed in butter. 

CROUSTADES OF BRAINS WITH ARTI- 
CHOKES — The brains prepared and cooked 
the same way as given for "braised brains with 
stuffed tomatoes"; when done, the brains cut 
in slices, mixed with the veloute sauce, filled 
into paste croustades; served garnished with 
artichoke bottoms spread with "brain force- 
meat" and filled with small pieces of glazed 
calf's tongue. 

BROCHETTE OF CALF'S BRAINS— See 
brochette dishes. 

BRAINS WITH RICE, TURKISH STYLE— 
Cold cooked brains worked into a creamy paste 
with cream, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon 
juice and nutmeg; the rice boiled in white stock 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



25 



with salt, butter, pepper and cinnamon; served, 
the rice in small molds, turned out onto the 
dish, and masked over with brains, sprinkled 
with finely chopped parsley or chervil. 

BRAIN PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS— 
Cold cooked brains cut in small dice with 
mushrooms, made hot in Supreme sauce, filled 
into patty shells, cover placed on and served. 

SAVORY OMELET OF CALF'S BRAINS— 
The brains prepared as in the preceding, the 
omelet mixture made of beaten eggs, finely cut 
chives, parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, the 
omelet formed, enclosing some of the mixture; 
served with more of the brains in sauce poured 
around. 

CALF'S BRAINS, PARSLEY SAUCE— The 
brains blanched, trimmed, and boiled till done 
in white stock; served on a slice of toast, pars- 
ley sauce poured over the brains and garnished 
with Hollandaise potatoes. 

BRAIN KROMESKIES, MADERIA SAUCE— 
Slices of cold cooked brains dipped in glaze, 
encircled with a very thin strip of cold boiled 
bacon, pinned with a toothpick, dipped in bat- 
ter and fried, the toothpick removed; served 
with madeira sauce poured around. 

BROILED BRAINS WITH PARSLEY BUT- 
TER — The brains blanched, trimmed and cut 
in slices, seasoned, broiled; served on toast 
with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them 
and garnished with Julienne potatoes. 

BRAISE AND BRAISING— A term applied to 
foods that are cooked by a top and bottom heat. 
The pot or braiser has a cover that fits tightly 
and a receptacle to hold lighted charcoal or 
coke, so that the heat descends on top of the 
foods. The general way of the average estab- 
lishment, however, who, as a rule, are not sup- 
plied with a braiser, is to take a shallow sauce- 
pan or sautoir, into which is placed the foods, 
together with onion, carrot, parsley, bay leaves 
and whole cloves (and according to the food, 
with other accessories, but the five mentioned 
spices and vegetables are always included in a 
braise) and moistened with stock or sauces, as 
the recipe may require; the cover of the sautoir 
is then put on and placed in the oven, so that 
it gives an even heat, top, bottom and sides. 
When the foods are cooked to requirement they 
are taken up and the remaining liquor is called 
BRAISE. Braising, besides imparting delicate 
flavors to the foods thus cooked, is also an ex- 
ceptional good way of making tough meats 
tender, as the toughest parts of beef can be 
made into fine entrees by braising them. See 
braised dishes under heading of " BEEF." 

BRUNOISE — Name given to a consomme with 
small cut vegetables. See "consomme." 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS- -Called (CHOUX DE 
BRUXELLES) are small sprouts that giow on 
the stalks of cabbages. They are very green 
and about the size of large olives when trimmed. 
They make an excellent accompaniment to 



boiled beef and form a part of many garnitures. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS BOILED— As a veg- 
etable, trimmed, thoroughly washed, thrown 
into boiling water containing salt and a small 
piece of common washing soda, boiled till ten- 
der with the saucepan lid OFF about fifteen 
minutes, then turned into a colander, drained, 
tossed with a little melted butter and served. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTEES— Prepared, 
boiled and drained as in the preceding, then 
placed in a sautoir with butter and lightly 
fried, seasoned with salt and pepper; served 
either as a garnish or vegetable. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH PARSLEY 
BUTTER — Same as the preceding, but served 
with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN CREAM— Prepared 
and cooked the same as for "boiled" above, 
then reheated in a good reduced cream (not 
cream sauce); served as a vegetable. 

OMELET WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS — 
The above sprouts in cream, enclosed in a 
savory omelet; served garnished with some of 
the sprouts around the omelet and the cream 
poured over them. 

PUREE OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS — The 
sprouts prepared as for " brussels sprouts 
sautees"; after sauteeing they are rubbed 
through a fine sieve, mixed with egg yolks and 
butter, seasoned with salt and pepper; used as 
a garnish or in a soup; if in soup, as follows: 
the stock oi good veal or chicken, seasoned 
with salt pork and vegetables, thickened lightly 
with roux, strained, the puree then worked into 
it. Served with small toast. 

BUCK — The male deer. For dishes of Buck see 
" venison." 

BUCKWHEAT— A meal ground from the seeds 
of buckwheat, principally used in culinary 
forms for making batter cakes. For recipes 
see heading of "batter." 

BUISSON— A form resembling a bush; may be 
made by taking two circular pieces of wood 
one-half the diameter of the other, used for top 
and bottom, then nailing strips of laths the de- 
sired height, about half an inch apart, screwing 
small hooks into the laths, the spaces between 
filled up with bunches of parsley and boiled 
crayfish or lobsters hanging by the tails from 
the hooks. 

BUTTER — Takes a very prominent part in cul- 
inary matters, forms some special butters used 
for garnishing and scarcely enters at all into 
what are now known as 

BUTTER CAKES— Composed of ten pounds of 
flour, one ounce of soda, one ounce of salt 
mixed together dry, then moistened with three 
egg yolks, two ounces of melted butter and two 
quarts of buttermilk; this is mixed and well 
broken, then is added three quarts of butter- 
milk and one quart of sweet milk, this brings 
it to the consistency of biscuit dough; spread 
out on table, let rest half an hour, then rolled 



26 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



out, let rest another half hour; again rolled out, 
cut out with biscuit cutter, allowed to raise or 
proof and baked on a griddle. 

ANCHOVY BUTTER— Two parts of butter to 
one part of anchovy essence, thoroughly mixed 
with a little grated Parmesan cheese and seas- 
oned with nutmeg, red pepper and a dash of 
lemon juice. 

CRAYFISH BUTTER —Crayfish shells and 
claws slowly dried in the oven with a little 
lobster coral, pounded to a paste, then put with 
butter and simmered for a few minutes, rubbed 
through a fine sieve into cold water, then gath- 
ered for use. 

LOBSTER BUTTER— The head and coral of 
boiled lobster with its equal weight of butter 
pounded to a paste with a dash of anchovy 
essence and a little dry mustard, then rubbed 
through a fine sieve; gathered for use. 

MONTPELIER BUTTER — Blanched water- 
cress, chervil, tarragon and parsley, with hard 
boiled egg yolks, a few anchovies, gherkins, 
capers and a clove of garlic are pounded to a 
paste with their equal weight #f butter, a little 
tarragon vinegar and lemon juice; when 
smooth, rubbed through a fine sieve and gath- 
ered for use. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER— To each cup 
of melted butter is added a large spoonful of 
chopped parsley, juice of two lemons, seasoned 
with salt, red pepper and nutmeg. 

PEPPER BUTTER— Three medium sized green 
peppers pounded to a paste with one pound of 
butter, then rubbed through a fine sieve and 
gathered for use. 

RAVIGOTE BUTTER— Blanched chives, pars- 
ley, tarragon and shallots, pounded to a paste 
with butter, lemon juice and a dash of anchovy 
essence, then rubbed through a fine sieve and 
gathered for use. 

GARLIC BUTTER— A few cloves of garlic are 
pounded to a paste with olive oil and butter; 
when smooth, rubbed through a fine sieve; 
gathered for use. 

HORSERADISH BUTTER — Four ounces of 
fine grated horseradish to each pound of butter 
pounded to a paste, then rubbed through a 
sieve and gathered for use. Many people like 
this on broiled steaks instead of Maitre D'Hotel 
butter. 

SHRIMP BUTTER— Equal weight of shrimp 
meat (canned or fresh), pounded to a paste with 
butter, then rubbed through a sieve and gath- 
ered for use. 

DRAWN BUTTER — Half a pound of clear 
melted butter, put on fire in a saucepan with 
two ounces of flour, mixed together, pint of 
boiling water stirred into it, simmered for a 
minute, then ready for use. 
BUTTER ADULTERATIONS — Although on 
account of the strict pure food laws are rare, 
still country butter as is often to be purchased 
by the steward on the open market is sometimes 



adulterated with wheat, pea, potato flours, 
chalk, potato starch, and variously colored with 
yellow chrome, carrot juice, saffron, alkanet, 
marigold flowers and celandine juice. 

BUTTERINE OR MARGARINE— Is a prepara- 
tion of animal fats, made by working the fats 
at the natural heat of the animal, then pressing 
it by hydraulic pressure, the oil thus obtained 
is then churned with diluted milk or water. 

BUTTER BALL DUCK— A small wild duck of 
American origin. For receipes see "duck." 

CABBAGE — As sold in our markets are of three 
colors, white, green and red; appreciated by 
the average guest in any of the following forms: 

BOILED CABBAGE— If young require about 
fifteen minutes, if old twenty to thirty minutes 
are required for boiling. They should be cut 
in quarters, the stalks removed, and then the 
leaves be separated. It is quite a common 
thing for the cooks to boil them simply in 
quarters without separating the leaves; not 
only is this a dirty way, but seldom is the inner 
part done till the outer leaves are cooked too 
much and rendered tasteless. After the leaves 
are separated they should be soaked in cold 
water to which is added salt; if this precaution 
is neglected slugs and various small insects may 
be retained in the leaves. When thoroughly 
washed put to boil in boiling salted water with 
a small piece of common washing soda; cook 
them with the saucepan lid OFF. As the smell 
of boiling cabbage often reaches the guests' 
rooms over the kitchen, a piece of stale bread 
crust or charcoal tied in a piece of muslin 
boiled with the cabbage, will be found to obvi- 
ate the smell. When done they should be 
turned into a colander and the water pressed 
cut, then seasoned with salt, pepper and but- 
ter. The too common way of sending cabbage 
to the table floating in the water it was boiled 
in cannot be condemned too strongly. 

BAKED CABBAGE WITH HAM — Fresh 
boiled cabbage with the water pressed out, 
mixed with drawn butter, placed in a baking 
pan, sprinkled with grated cheese and ham, 
baked, served with a slice of roast ham on top. 

STEWED CABBAGE— Fresh boiled and pressed 
cabbage cut fine, then sauteed in butter, sur- 
plus butter poured off, covered with cream 
sauce, simmered for a few minutes and served. 

CREAMED CABBAGE— Coarsely shred cab- 
bage, thoroughly washed, boiled, drained, then 
mixed with cream sauce. 

STUFFED CABBAGE — Whole cabbage par- 
boiled, the heart removed, its place filled with 
a stuffing of finely chopped cooked meat and 
sausage meat mixed together, the aperture 
covered with a slice of salt pork, tied, placed 
in a saucepan with white stock and a little 
sherry wine, cover put on, and simmered till 
done ; served with a good brown gravy poured 
around. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



-7 



BRAISED CABBAGE— Cabbage cut in halves, 
thoroughly picked over and washed, boiled not 
quite done, taken up and drained, the stalk 
then removed and the two halves put together 
and tied, resembling the whole cabbage, braised 
with white stock for an hour, then taken up, 
drained ; served as a vegetable or cut in shapes 
to be used as a garniture. 

FRIED CABBAGE WITH BACON — Fresh 
boiled, pressed, and seasoned cabbage cut fine, 
fried in bacon fat ; served with a slice of boiled 
bacon on top. 

CABBAGE TIMB ALES— Cabbage prepared and 
cooked the same as for "boiled cabbage "; then 
well pressed, finely chopped and mixed with 
lightly fried minced onion, put in a saiitoir with 
a little butter and simmered with the lid on for 
fifteen minutes, then allowed to cool ; while 
cooling, equal parts of sausage meat and fresh 
bread crumbs with a few beaten eggs and 
chopped parsley are thoroughly mixed together; 
the timbale molds are then buttered, a piece of 
bacon put in, the sides lined with blanched 
cabbage leaves, the cabbage and stuffing then 
filled in the molds in alternate layers till full, 
another piece of bacon put on the top, the tim- 
bales then baked in a moderate oven for about 
an hour, the bacon removed, cabbage turned 
out and the inner piece of bacon removed ; 
served with a good brown gravy poured over 
and around. 

BAKED CABBAGE WITH CHEESE— Fresh 
boiled and pressed cabbage seasoned with salt, 
pepper and butter, arranged in layers in baking 
pan, each layer sprinkled with grated cheese, 
top layer with grated cheese and bread crumbs 
mixed, sprinkled with butter, baked and served 
(called Cabbage au Gratin). 

PAUPIETTES OF CABBAGE— Blanched cab- 
bage leaves, taken about four thick, the outer 
one being the largest, the inner one spread with 
sausage meat mixed with boiled rice, shallots, 
chopped parsley and chives, then rolled up and 
tied, arranged in a sautoir till full, little broth 
added, cover put on and simmered till done ; 
served with brown gravy or as a garniture. 

BOILED CABBAGE, GERMAN STYLE— The 
cabbage boiled and pressed, chopped, then 
mixed with small pieces of boiled bacon and 
Allemande sauce. 

CABBAGE WITH EGGS — Fresh boiled and 
pressed cabbage finely chopped, placed in a 
sautoir with a little drawn butter and vinegar, 
stirred over a quick fire for a few minutes till 
smooth and creamy ; served garnished with 
quartered hard boiled eggs and sprinkled with 
finely chopped eggs. 

STEWED RED CABBAGE WITH SAUSAGES 
— Shred the cabbage as for cold slaw, wash, 
drain, place it in a saucepan with butter and 
simmer it with the lid on for half an hour, then 
put in some slices of salt pork and white stock 
and cook till done ; take up and drain ; serve 



with fried or boiled sausages on top, and a 
brown gravy poured around. 

COLE SLAW — Finely shred cabbage mixed with 
pepper, salt, sugar, oil and vinegar ; also the 
plain shred cabbage served as an adjunct to 
fried or stewed oysters. 

CABBAGE SALAD — Finely shred cabbage, some 
bacon cut in dice and fried ; while still in the 
pan, equal parts of water and vinegar, with a 
seasoning of salt and pepper added to it, boiled, 
cooled, then mixed with the cabbage. 

RED CABBAGE SALAD— The cabbage finely 
washed, drained, then covered with vinegar, 
dredged with salt and pepper and steeped for a 
few hours, then drained and mixed with French 
dressing ; served garnished with shred celery 
in mayonnaise. 

HOT SLAW — Finely shred cabbage washed 
and drained, put in saucepan with butter, 
lid put on and simmered till nearly done, 
water, vinegar, salt, pepper, and a little sugar 
then added, and finish cooking till tender ; 
finished by working in some beaten eggs till 
smooth, yellow and creamy. 

PICKLED CABBAGE— Finely shred red cabbage 
thoroughly dredged with salt and placed in large 
colander or sieve to drain for several hours, 
then washed, drained, and packed in jars with 
a few whole peppers, bay leaves and a little 
thyme, the jar then filled up with white wire 
vinegar containing beet juice (or a boiled beet 
may be put in with the cabbage), cover of jar 
put on, kept in a cold place ; ready for use in 
about a month. 

PICKLED CABBAGE— Two gallons of finely 
chopped cabbage, one pound of chopped onions, 
half pound each of red and green peppers cut 
in shreds, mixed together, with one pound of 
salt, placed in a crock and stood over night; 
then taken out, put in colander and well pres- 
sed; then put in crock in layers, and on each 
layer sprinkle mustard seeds and a few cloves 
till all in, covered with cider vinegar; when 
vinegar sinks, the next day, fill it up so that 
the cabbage is covered; ready for use in two 
days. 

SAUERKRAUT— This is finely shred cabbage 
packed in barrels in layers with salt and allowed 
to sour. It is a nasty smelling troublesome 
thing to attend to in hotel life, and can really 
be bought better and cheaper than by home 
preparation. When to be cooked, it is thor- 
oughly washed and slowly boiled for two or 
three hours with carrot, onion stuck with clove? 
and a piece of ham or bacon. If to be served 
with frankfurters, or sausages, they are boiled 
in it. 

CAFE — Pronounced KAFFAY. The name used 
to signify a restaurant or place where coffee is 
to be obtained. It is the French word for 
coffee, often seen on the bill of fare as "cafe 
noir" which means black coffee or strong coffee. 

CASES — Are fanciful shaped pieces of paper 



28 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



made to hold and serve delicate foods; also 
made by the cook of rice, potatoes, turnips, 
etc.; most often seen on the bill of fare as EN 
CAISSE. 

CAILLES — French name for "quails;" when 
spoken the two ELLS are silent. 

CALIPEE AND CALIPASH— The first is the 
name given to the meat attached to the lower, 
and the last to the meat attached to upper shells 
of a turtle. 

CALF — Is the name given to parts of the young 
of the cow (in a culinary way) such as the head, 
feet, liver, tail, heart, brains, kidneys and 
sweetbreads; the other parts or meat is called 
veal, for recipes of which see "Veal". 

CALF'S HEAD — The head as purchased should 
be left entire with simply the hair cleaned off, 
and, if in the country towns or resorts, the cook 
has to clean it himself, plunge it into boiling 
water containing common washing soda, let it 
remain for a few minutes, then scrape it per- 
fectly clean with a fish scaler or curry-comb, 
then singe it like poultry; the head is then split 
in halves, the brains removed, washed, put to 
boil in cold water with salt and vegetables, 
scum removed as it rises, simmered till tender, 
taken up and put into a pan of cold water, and 
all bones removed which come away easily, 
then skin the roof of the mouth, and put the 
head and tongue between two boards with a 
weight on top, and press till cold. The stock 
which the head was boiled in is good to use for 
soups and white sauces. The pressed meat will 
be called "calf's head meat" for the following 
recipes: 

CALF'S HEAD BAKED WITH CHIPOLATA 
GARNISH — Calf's head meat rut in portions, 
seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and pow- 
dered thyme, arranged in baking pan with smal^ 
onions, mushrooms, small veal sausages, pieces 
of ham and chicken, blanched and peeled chest- 
nuts, and small balls of carrots and turnips, the 
whole covered with a rich brown sauce, baked 
till the garnish is done and the head glazy; 
served with a little of the sauce poured over 
and surrounded with the garnish. 

CALF'S HEAD BAKED, ENGLISH STYLE— 
Calf's head meat cut in slices, arranged in bak- 
ing pan with a seasoning of salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, an onion stuck with cloves, covered with 
a white sauce made from the stock the head 
was boiled in, baked for half an hour; served 
with some of the sauce poured over, sprinkled 
with parsley and garnished with quenelles of 
brain forcemeat and quartered eggs. 

CALF'S HEAD BAKED, GERMAN STYLE— 
Calf's head meat cut in portion pieces, seasoned, 
arranged in pan with mushrooms, pieces of 
sweetbreads, and the tongue cut in thin slices, 
covered with a sauce Bourgignotte and a sprink- 
ling of Parmesan cheese, baked half an hour; 
served with some of the sauce poured over, 
decorated with the slices of tongue, sprinkled 



with minced truffle peelings and parsley, gar- 
nished with sauteed oysters and the mushrooms. 

BAKED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE MAINTE- 
NON — Calf's head meat cut in slices, dipped 
in D'Uxelles sauce, then in cracker crumbs, 
then breaded and arranged in a buttered baking 
pan, brushed over with butter, baked till brown, 
served with a Maintenon sauce poured over. 
"See sauces." 

CALF'S HEAD WITH BACON AND PARS- 
LEY SAUCE — Calf's head meat cut in slices 
and made hot in veloute sauce containing 
chopped parsley; served with some of the sauce 
poured over, and garnished with two thin slices 
of boiled bacon or pork. 

CALF'S HEAD AND TONGUE, PIQUANTE 
SAUCE — Slices of calf's head meat made hot 
in piquante sauce; served with some of the 
sauce poured over, decorated with scallops of 
the tongue, and garnished with pieces of the 
brain breaded and fried. 

CALF'S HEAD WITH FINANCIERE RA- 
GOUT — Slices of calf's head meat arranged in 
a sautoir with carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaves 
and cloves, moistened with consomme and 
sherry wine, quickly braised for an hour, meat 
taken up, the braise strained, skimmed and re- 
duced to a glaze, then strained over the meat; 
served with a fancy crouton at ends of the dish, 
and garnished with cocks-combs and kernels, 
pieces of sweetbreads, mushrooms and small 
quenelles made hot in Madeira sauce. 

CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE ITALIENNE— Calf's 
head meat in slices, made hot in brown Italian 
sauce; served with the sauce poured over, and 
garnished with fancy potatoes. 

CALF'S HEAD AND BRAINS, MUSHROOM 
SAUCE — Slices of calf's head meat made hot 
in mushroom sauce; served with a slice of 
boiled brains on top, the brains decorated with 
slices of green pickles, garnished with button 
mushrooms, and sauce poured around. 

CALF'S HEAD, TURTLE STYLE— Calf 's head 
meat cut in squares, made hot with stoned 
olives, button mushrooms, small forcemeat 
balls, and hard boiled yolks of eggs in equal 
parts of tomato and madeira sauces; served, 
surrounded with the garnish. 

CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE POULETTE— Slices 
of calf's head meat made hot in poulette sauce; 
served garnished with balls of potatoes sprinkled 
with parsley and button mushrooms. 

BRAISED CALF'S HEAD WITH VEAL 
QUENELLES — The meat prepared and 
braised the same as given for "with financiere 
garnish"; served dipped in the glaze, and gar- 
nished with small quenelles of veal dipped in 
Ravigote sauce alternately with scallops of the 
tongue. 

CALF'S HEAD FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE— 
Calf's head meat seasoned with salt, pepper 
and nutmeg, dipped in a mixture of four beaten 
eggs, yolks of two hard boiled eggs rubbed 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



29 



through a sieve or grater, and half a cup of 
melted butter, then breaded with grated fresh 
crumbs, or dipped in batter and fried; served 
with tomato sauce poured under. 

CALF'S HEAD AND BRAINS, SAUCE POIV- 
RADE— Prepared and fried same as the pre- 
ceding in crumbs, Poivrade sauce poured under, 
and the ends of dish garnished with the brains 
cut small and mixed in a thick Ravigote sauce. 

FRICASSEE OF CALF'S HEAD WITH 
VEGETABLES- Calf's head meat cut in slices 
with the tongue, made hot in a rich Allemande 
sauce, served with the sauce poured over and 
garnished with balls of carrot, turnip, potatoes 
and green peas that have been boiled separately 
in consomme with a little sugar. 

BOILED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE VINAI- 
GRETTE— The meat and tongue cut in slices, 
made hot in white stock; served alternately 
with vinaigrette sauce poured over and gar- 
nished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

CALF'S HEAD WITH OLIVES, TOMATO 
SAUCE — Slices of calf's head meat simmered 
in tomato sauce; served with it, and garnished 
with stoned olives that have been blanched in 
consomme. 

STUFFED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE PAPI- 
LOTTE — Calf's head meat cut in portion pieces 
diamond shape, thickly spread with brain force- 
meat (see brains), arranged in a buttered baking 
pan, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs and 
butter, slightly moistened with stock, baked 
slowly till brown; served with a sauce Papilotte 
poured around the base. 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S HEAD AND TONGUE 
— Same as "calf's head, turtle style," adding 
the tongue cut in scallops, and garnishing the 
ends of the dish with croutons. 

CALF'S HEAD CURRIED WITH RICE — 
X Slices of the meat made hot in a good curry 
sauce, made either of the stock the head was 
boiled in, or veal, or chicken stock, a border of 
dry boiled rice arranged as a border on the 
dish, with the curried meat in the center. 

OMELET WITH CALF'S HEAD- -Four-fifths 
of beaten eggs, one-fifth of cold consomme, and 
the brains of the head cleaned, beaten to a 
pulp, little chopped parsley, salt, pepper and 
nutmeg, all mixed together ; small squares of 
catf's head meat made hot in madeira sauce ; 
the omelet mixture fried in form, enclosing 
some of the meat in sauce, turned on to the 
dish, slit made in the top of the omelet, more 
meat put in ; served with some of the meat and 
sauce poured around. 

CALF'S HEAD SOUP WITH QUENELLES— 
The stock the head was boiled in and an equal 
quantity of chicken stock mixed, rice boiled in 
it till soft, then all rubbed through a puree sieve, 
the puree thus obtained mixed with an equal 
quantity of supreme sauce and brought to the 
boil, calf's head meat in small squares, and 



some small quenelles of brain forcemeat added 
to the soup and served. 

CALF'S HEAD SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE 
— The stock the head was boiled in strained 
into a good veal stock, in which is boiled a 
jardiniere of vegetables, some tomatoes and 
barley, thickened with roux ; when nearly 
done, the calf's head meat and tongue with a 
little calf's liver blanched, all cut in small 
squares, added to the soup and served. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP, THICK— Sliced car- 
rots, turnips, onions and shallots sauteed in 
butter, then put in a sauce pan with some 
browned veal and beef bones, a little vinegar, 
sweet basil, thyme, bay leaves, mace and whole 
cloves, fill up with stock, boil up, skimmed, 
then add a calf's head and boil it till tender ; 
take it out when done, put it in cold water and 
remove the bones ; thicken the stock with roux ; 
into the soup tureen put the calf's head cut up 
small, some yolks of hard boiled eggs, slices of 
the white of egg, small quenelles of brain force- 
meat, salt, pepper, lemon juice, chopped pars- 
ley and sherry wine, then strain the thickened 
stock into it and serve. 

CLEAR MOCK TURTLE— A consomme made 
of veal and chicken stock in which has been 
boiled a calf's head and feet, the consomme 
flavored with essence of anchovies, sweet basil, 
mushroom catsup, a little curry powder and 
lemon peel ; serve with small quenelles of brain 
forcemeat, the calf's head cut in dice, and finish 
with a little brandy. 

CALF'S EARS BOILED, SAUCE VILLEROI 
— The ears cut off close to the head before the 
head is split for boiling, thoroughly washed, 
and boiled in white stock with vegetables and 
spices, taken up ; served with Villeroi sauce 
poured over. 

CALF'S EARS FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE — 
The ears boiled as above, then breaded and 
fried, retaining their shape as much as pos- 
sible ; served with tomato sauce poured around 
and garnished with slices of broiled tomatoes 
that have been sprinkled with cheese while 
broiling. 

CALF'S EARS STUFFED, SAUCE BORDE- 
LAISE — The ears boiled not quite done, taken 
up, stuffed with a veal stuffing, smoothing the 
face from the opening to the tip, arranged in a 
sautoir, moistened with consommee and sim- 
mered till done ; served with Bordelaise sauce 
poured over and around. 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S EARS IN CROUSTADES 
— Calf's ears boiled till tender, cut in small 
squares, sauteed in butter with mushrooms, 
stoned olives, pieces of brains and tongue, but 
the ears predominating ; when colored, surplus 
butter drained off, moistened with madeira 
sauce, filled into paste croustades and served. 

CALF'S EARS, TURTLE STYLE — The ears 
bolied and left whole, then made hot with whole- 
stoned olives, button mushrooms, small force- 



3o 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



meat balls of the brains, and hard-boiled yolks 
of eggs in equal parts of tomato and madeira 
sauces ; served, the yolk of egg in the opening 
of the ear, and surrounded with the garnish. 

CALF'S EARS WITH TRUFFLES, SAUCE 
TRIANON— The ears boiled and left whole, 
the part just below the tip studded with pieces 
of diamond-shaped truffle and the opening of 
the ear with a whole glazed truffle ; arranged 
in a sautoir with a very little consomme, the 
ears brushed over with glaze, made hot, and 
served with a Trianon sauce poured around. 

CALF'S BRAINS — For the several receipes of 
which see heading of " brains." 

CALF'S FEET — The hoof is split with a knife, 
then treated the same as calf's head; when 
done, the bones removed, and the meat pressed 
between boards. 

FRICASSEE OF CALF'S FEET — The cold 
meat cut in neat shaped pieces, made hot in 
Pascaline sauce ; served garnished with button 
mushroons and small Victoria potatoes. 

CALF'S FEET BOILED, POIVRADE SAUCE 
— Neatly trimmed pieces of the c jld meat made 
hot in white stock ; served with Poivrade sauce 
poured over and garnished with fancy croutons. 

FRIED CALF'S FEET IN BATTER, ITALIAN 
SAUCE — Cold cooked feet, seasoned with salt, 
pepper and lemon juice, dipped in plain batter, 
fried; served with brown Italian sauce poured 
around, and garnished with small potato 
croquettes. 

CALF'S FEET STEAMED, SAUCE REMOU- 
LADE — Slices of the cold meat steamed ; 
served with Remoulade sauce poured over and 
garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

CALF'S FEET WITH MUSHROOMS, SAUCE 
POULETTE — Squares of cold meat made hot 
in Poulette sauce ; served with the sauce, and 
garnished with button mushrooms that have 
been lightly fried in butter. 

CROUSTADES OF CALF'S FEET — Small 
squares of the cold meat made hot in a sauce 
prepared from the stock they were boiled in, 
brought to a simmer, then is added some finely 
minced yolks of eggs, a little dry mustard, salt, 
red pepper, white wine and lemon juice, quickly 
reduced, filled into paste croustadesand served. 

CALF'S FEET CREPINETTES, SAUCE 
PROVENCALE— The cold meat of the feet 
cut up small, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon 
juice and nutmeg, mixed with an equal quantity 
of veal or pork sausage meat, made into shapes 
of small Hamburg steaks, broiled ; served with 
Provencale sauce poured around. 

CALF'S FEET JELLY — Raw cleaned calf's 
feet chopped up, put to boil in cold water with 
a stick of cinnamon and the rind of a lemon, 
boiled till soft, and the liquor well reduced, 
strain, allowed to get cold, then all fat and 
skimmings removed, the liquor which should 
have become like jelly then put back into a 
bright kettle with some beaten whites of eggs, 



sugar to taste, little white wine and lemon 
juice, brought slowly to the boil without stir- 
ring, then allowed to simmer till the coagula- 
tion turns a grey color, about twenty minutes, 
then strained and restrained through a jelly 
bag ; when nearly cool, filled into glasses or 
molds, and served when set and cold. 

CALF'S HEART STUFFED, MADEIRA 
SAUCE — The hearts soaked and the veins 
cut away, put in boiling water and simmered 
for ten minutes, then refreshed in cold water, 
taken up and wiped dry, the cavity made and 
filled with a poultry stuffing, crust of bread tied 
over the opening to keep the stuffing in, roasted 
and basted with gravy till done ; served split in 
halves, dressing side up, with Madeira sauce 
poured around and garnished with croutons. 

CALF'S HEART STUFFED AND BRAISED 
— Prepare, and stuffed as above, but the opening 
covered and tied with a slice of salt pork ; 
arranged in a sautoir with slices of carrot, 
onions, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, 
moistened with stock, braised and basted till 
tender, taken up, the braise strained, skimmed 
and added to a Madeira sauce, reduced to a half 
glaze ; the heart served cut in halves with some 
of the glaze poured round the edges, and gar- 
nished with Parisienne potatoes. 

CALF'S HEART LARDED, SAUCE ANDA- 
LOUSE— The top of the heart larded with 
strips of seasoned larding pork, then prepared 
and stuffed, arranged in a sautoir and braised 
as in the preceding receipe ; served, the whole 
heart, point upwards with Andalusian sauce 
poured over, and garnished at the ends with a 
macedoine of vegetables. 

CALF'S KIDNEYS LARDED, MADEIRA 
SAUCE — The kidneys blanched for a few min- 
utes, then freshened in cold water and after- 
wards wiped dry, larded with seasoned strips 
of pork, arranged in a sautoir with a dash of 
tarragon vinegar, powdered mixed herbs, melted 
butter and consomme, quickly braised and 
glazed ; served on a bed of mashed potatoes 
with Madeira sauce poured around. 

BROCHETTE OF CALF'S KIDNEYS — See 
receipe under head of " Brochette." 

CALF'S KIDNEYS BROILED, PARSLEY 
BUTTER— The kidneys blanched and cooled, 
then cut in two lengthwise, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled in 
fresh bread crumbs, broiled till done ; served 
on toast with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured 
over them, and garnished with cress and lemon. 

CALF'S KIDNEYS SAUTES WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS— The kidneys lightly blanched and 
refreshed, cut in small slices, sauteed with 
minced onion and sliced button mushrooms ; 
when done, sprinkled with parsley, salt, pepper 
and a dash of tarragon vinegar, moistened with 
a little Colbert sauce and served on a toast 
garnished with fancy croutons. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



3i 



PATTIES OF CALF'S KIDNEYS — Puff paste 
patty shells filled with the preceding, saute, 
but having the kidneys cut in very small dice. 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S KIDNEYS — Kidneys 
cut about the same size as button mushrooms, 
sauteed in butter with mushrooms and minced 
shallots with a clove of garlic ; when browned, 
put into a Bordelaise sauce and simmered for 
a few minutes ; served, a border of potato 
croquette mixture forced through a fancy tube, 
sprinkled with chopped parsley, and the ragout 
in the center. 

CALF'S KIDNEYS CROQUETTES WITH 
PEAS — Cold braised kidneys (see Calf's Kid- 
neys Larded, Madeira Sauce), minced and 
seasoned, made hot in a thick Madeira sauce, 
turned into a pan to cool, smoothed with a knife, 
covered with a buttered paper; when cold, cut 
in pieces, formed into croquettes of the desired 
shape, breaded, fried, and served with green 
peas at the ends of the dish and Madeira sauce 
poured around, the croquettes decorated with a 
frill. 

CALF'S KIDNEYS FRIED, SAUCE COLBERT 
— The kidneys split lengthwise and seasoned 
with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then fried 
in butter ; served on toast with Colbert sauce 
poured over ; garnished with croutons. 

CALF'S KIDNEYS IN CROUSTADES— Broiled 
kidneys and cold boiled ham both cut into small 
dice; minced mushrooms fried in butter, then 
drained and added to the meats with a little 
chopped parsley, all mixed, moistened with 
Bechamel sauce, made hot, filled into croustades 
and served. 

HALF'S KIDNEY OMELET — The mixture 
given for "Patties of Calf's Kidneys," the 
omelet made of beaten eggs, chopped chives, 
parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, enclosing 
some of the kidneys, and served with more of 
the meat in sauce poured around. 

CALF'S LIVER WITH CRISPED ONIONS— 
The liver trimmed from veins, larded through 
with seasoned strips of bacon, placed in a 
sautoir with bacon trimmings, little consomme 
and sherry wine, cover put on, and roasted till 
done and glazy, liver taken up, brown sauce 
added to the residue of the sautoir, boiled, 
skimmed and strained, liver served in slices 
with the gravy and garnished with rings of 
onions that have been dipped in milk, rolled in 
flour and fried in hot fat. 

CALF'S LIVER SAUTE WITH BACON — 
Slices of liver and bacon, the bacon fried first, 
then the liver seasoned and rolled in flour, fried 
in bacon fat ; when done, flour added to the 
pan, stirred, and moistened with stock, boiled 
up, strained, skimmed, juice of lemon added ; 
the liver served with some of the gravy and 
garnished with the bacon. 

CALF'S LIVER STEWED WITH ONIONS— 
Green spring onions chopped and fried in bacon 



fat in a sautoir, liver cut small and put with the 
onions and tossed over a quick fire till set, su- 
perfluous fat then poured off, flour stirred in, 
moistened with stock, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, simmered till tender; served garnished 
with a border of Victoria potatoes. 

BRAISED CALF'S LIVER WITH VEGE- 
TABLES — The liver trimmed from veins, 
larded with seasoned strips of bacon, placed in 
a sautoir with some bacon trimmings, carrot, 
onion, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, 
moistened with consomme and sherry wine, 
covered with a sheet of buttered paper, lid put 
on, braised till tender, taken up, sauce added 
to the braise, boiled up, strained and skimmed ; 
the liver served in slices and garnished with 
balls of carrot, turnip and small glazed onions. 

CALF'S LIVER FRIED WITH FINE HERBS 
— Slices of the liver seasoned with salt and 
pepper, rolled in flour, fried in bacon fat with 
minced chives and shallots, taken up, grease 
poured off, fines-herbes sauce added to the 
pan, boiled up, served with the liver. 

CALF'S LIVER BROILED, ITALIAN SAUCE 
— Slices of liver seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, dipped in melted butter, broiled 
till done ; served with brown Italian sauce 
poured around and garnished with chip potatoes. 

SCALLOPS OF CALF'S LIVER WITH 
MUSHROOMS — Small pieces of liver seasoned 
and fried in bacon fat, taken up and put into a 
brown Italian sauce, simmered for a few min- 
utes, served with a border of fried button mush- 
rooms. 

CALF'S LIVER AND BACON WITH SPINACH 
— The liver larded and braised, the bacon boiled 
tender, the spinach boiled in the bacon water, 
drained, pressed, chopped fine and seasoned 
with salt and pepper ; served, the spinach as a 
bed, the liver and bacon in slices alternately on 
top, with some of the gravy from the braising 
poured around. 

BROCHETTE OF CALF'S LIVER WITH 
BACON — See recipe under heading of 
" Brochette." 

CALF'S LIVER WITH SMOTHERED 
ONIONS — The liver in slices, seasoned, floured 
and fried, the onions sliced and steamed for a 
few minutes, then put in a sautoir with bacon 
fat and smothered a light brown over a quick 
fire ; the liver served garnished with the onions. 

LIVER CHEESE, ITALIAN STYLE — Calf's 
liver four-fifths, salt pork one-fifth, finely 
minced with a few shallots, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, nutmeg, powdered thyme and 
sherry wine; bread pans lined with thin slices 
of bacon, the liver mince filled in, with slices 
of bacon and bay leaves on top, covered with 
buttered paper and slowly baked till done (about 
three hours); served either cold in slices, or be- 
tween bread as sandwiches, or in slices hot, 
with Italian sauce poured over. 



32 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



LIVER FORCEMEAT BALLS— Made the same 
as "liver cheese" above, but adding some bread 
crumbs, raw yolks of eggs and chopped parsley; 
when thoroughly mixed, made into balls and 
poached till done in white stock; served with a 
Hollandaise sauce. The Germans call this dish 
"LIVER KLOSSE." 

TIMBALE OF CALF'S LIVER, PIQUANT 
SAUCE — The "liver cheese" above filled into 
timbale molds, and steamed or baked till done; 
served with piquant sauce poured over. 

CALF'S LIVER QUENELLES IN CRUMBS— 
The "forcemeat" mixture above, shaped like 
eggs between two spoons, poached, taken up, 
and rolled in fried bread crumbs; served gar- 
nished with parsley and lemon, and Allemande 
sauce served separately. 

POTTED CALF'S LIVER WITH ASPIC 
JELLY — Slices of liver fried in bacon fat with 
minced onions and mushrooms, taken up and 
pounded to a paste with wine, powdered mixed 
herbs, salt, pepper and nutmeg, then rubbed 
through a fine sieve with its equal weight of fat 
bacon; into this pur£e is then mixed a minced 
clove of garlic, some ham and bacon fat cut in 
small dice; when thoroughly incorporated, 
filled into bread pans, covered with thick but- 
tered paper, the filled pans put into roasting 
pans containing cold water half way up, put in 
oven and slowly baked till done (about two 
hours), taken out, allowed to partly cool, then 
turned out, trimmed; served cold in slices, 
decorated with aspic jelly. 

CALF'S TONGUE BRAISED, TOMATO 
SAUCE — The tongues blanched and freshened, 
then larded with strips of seasoned larding pork, 
arranged in sautoir with carrot, onion, parsley, 
bay leaves and whole cloves, moistened with 
stock, braised and glazed; served in slices cut 
lengthwise, with tomato sauce. 

CALF'S TONGUE SAUTE, VINAIGRETTE— 
The tongues blanched, freshened and skinned, 
then cut lengthwise in slices, sauteed in butter 
with minced shallots; served with sauce vinai- 
grette. 

CALF'S TONGUE, SAUCE TARTARE— The 
braised tongues above, allowed to become cold; 
served in slices with tartare sauce, garnished 
with strips of pickles. 

CALF'S TONGUE FRIED, SAUCE ROBERT 
— The tongue boiled with vegetables, herbs and 
spices, skinned, cut lengthwise in slices, bread- 
ed, fried; served with a Robert sauce poured 
under. 

CALF'S TONGUE WITH POTATOES, MUSH- 
ROOM SAUCE— The tongues boiled and skin- 
ned as in the preceding recipe, then cut in long 
slices, dipped in glaze, arranged on a bed of 
mashed potatoes, with mushroom sauce poured 
around. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS BROILED, SAUCE 
COLBERT — The sweetbreads soaked in cold 
salted water for a few hours, then boiled with 



a few whole spices, bay leaves, vegetables and 
a dash of vinegar till tender, taken up, put into 
cold water and all rough fat and skin removed, 
then pressed between boards till cold (for the 
following recipes the above directions zuill be 
called "prepared") when cold split in slices, 
dipped in melted butter, then in seasoned bread 
crumbs, broiled; served with Colbert sauce 
poured around. They may also be served with 
maitre d'hotel butter, and garnished with fancy 
potatoes. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS SAUTES WITH 
PEAS — Prepared sweetbreads split and sauteed 
in butter; served on a bed of mashed potatoes, 
with green peas in sauce poured around. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN CREAM, ON 
TOAST — Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices 
crosswise, made hot in reduced cream; served 
on toast, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, 
with some of the cream poured around. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, SAUCE 
PERIGUEUX — Prepared sweetbreads split, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped 
in flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a golden 
color; served with Perigueux sauce, and gar- 
nished with fancy croutons. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN 
BUTTER — Prepared sweefcbreads split, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and powdered herbs 
rolled in flour, fried in butter; served wiih 
brown butter, made by melting butter to the 
frothing point, then adding lemon juice and 
chopped parsley; poured over the sweetbreads 
on hot dish. 

CALF'S SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES 
WITH PEAS — Prepared sweetbreads cut into 
small dice, mixed with half the amount of grated 
boiled ham, a few minced sauteed shalljts and 
mushrooms, thoroughly heated in a thick Ve- 
loute sauce, seasoned with lemon juice and 
nutmeg, poured into a buttered shallow pan, 
smoothed with a knife, covered with buttered 
paper; when cold, cut into pieces of an equal 
size, shaped, breaded, fried, served with green 
peas in white sauce or half glaze as a border, 
with frills in the croquettes. 

RISSOLES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
WITH VEGETABLES— The croquette mix- 
ture above, when cold, cut out and formed into 
balls, size of small egg; two sheets of puff paste 
rolled out, the balls put in sections all over one, 
covered with the other, edges pressed down, 
then stamped out with a fancy cutter, arranged 
on a baking sheet, washed over, baked; served 
garnished with a macedoine of vegetables in 
brown sauce. 

RISSOLETTES are the same as rissoles, but 
smaller. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN SHELL— The 
croquette mixture above, filled into buttered 
scallop shells, sprinkled with grated biead 
crumbs and melted butter, browned in the oven 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



33 



and served, (called, SWEETBREADS EN 
COQUILLE). 

SCALLOPED CALF'S SWEETBREADS — 
The same as the preceding, with the addition 
of grated Parmesan cheese mixed with the bread 
crumbs; served in the shell, (called, SWEET- 
BREADS EN COQUILLE AU GRATIN). 

PATTIES OF SCRAMBLED CALF'S SWEET- 
BREADS — Prepared sweetbreads cut into small 
dice, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice 
and chopped parsley, mixed into beaten eggs 
with a little cream, scrambled in butter but 
kept soft, (best when scrambled to order) filled 
into hot patty shells and served with a little 
Veloute sauce poured around. 

CUTLETS OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
WITH VEGETABLES— The croquette mix- 
ture (see Calf's Sweetbread Croquettes with 
Peas) when cold, cut out and shaped like small 
lamb chops, with a piece of macaroni to repre- 
sent the bone, breaded and fried; served with 
a border of Julienne vegetables mixed into Hol- 
landaise sauce, (called, SWEETBREAD CUT- 
LETS a la NIVERNAISE). 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH FINAN- 
CIERE RAGOUT — Prepared sweetbreads 
split and seasoned with salt, pepper and nut- 
meg, rolled in flour, sauteed in butter, taken 
up, kept hot in glaze, served on fancy croutons 
surrounded with a garnish of cock's combs and 
kernels, button mushrooms, small quenelles and 
truffles, all made hot in a rich Madeira sauce, 
(called SWEETBREAD SAUTE a la FINAN- 
CIERED 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN CASES — Pre- 
pared sweetbreads cut in small dice, seasoned 
with salt and red pepper, made hot in Veloute 
sauce, filled into paper cases, sprinkled with 
fresh bread crumbs and melted butter, arranged 
on a baking sheet and very quickly browned in 
the oven or with a salamander and served. 

VOL-AU-VENT OF SWEETBREADS AND 
MUSHROOMS— The preceding with the addi- 
tion of an equal quantity of cut and sauteed 
mushrooms, filled into a good sized puff paste 
patty shell with a cover placed on and served. 

TIMBALE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS— 
Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised, al- 
lowed to become cold, then cut in thin slices. 
A rich forcemeat of cooked chicken and mush- 
rooms well seasoned, the sweetbreads and force- 
meat filled into timbale molds in alternate 
layers; when full, moistened with the reduced 
and strained braise, the opening covered with 
the same short paste as the molds are lined 
with, baked, turned out; served with a Madeira 
sauce containing a little chopped parsley and 
some mushroom tops, poured over and around. 

BOUCHEES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS— 
For recipe see heading of "Bouchees". 

BROCHETTE OR ATTEREAUX OF CALF'S 
SWEETBREADS— For recipe see "Brochette" 

BRAISED CALF'S SWEETBREADS, GAR- 



NISHED— Prepared sweetbreads larded with 
seasoned strips of bacon, then arranged in a 
sautoir on a bed of thinly sliced vegetables, 
with bay leaves and one or two cloves, covered 
with thin slices of bacon, moistened with stock, 
covered with buttered paper, lid put on and 
braised quickly for half an hour with frequent 
basting; when done, the lid, paper and bacon 
removed, then put back into the oven to dry 
the glaze on top of the sweetbreads, taken up, 
the braise strained and skimmed, then poured 
to a mixture of diced red tongue, truffles, mush- 
rooms and chicken breast, little Madeira wine 
and sauce then added; the sweetbreads served 
on toast surrounded with the garnish, (called, 
SWEETBREADS BRAISED a la MONT- 
GLAS). 

GLAZED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
FRENCH BEANS — Prepared sweetbreads 
larded and braised as in the preceding, the 
braise strained, skimmed and mixed with green 
French beans (Haricot Verts), the sweetbreads 
served surrounded with the beans. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH DEMI- 
GLACE — Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
braised as (see Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, 
Garnished), when done the braise strained over 
them, reduced with a little Madeira sauce and 
wine; served on toast rolled in glaze, and gar- 
nished. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS LARDED AND 
BRAISED, MUSHROOM SAUCE- Same as 
"Braised Calf's Sweetbreads Garnished", the 
braise strained into a rich mushroom sauce, the 
sweetbreads served surrounded with the mush- 
rooms in sauce. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS LARDED, SAUCE 
TOULOUSE — Prepared sweetbreads larded 
and braised, served with asparagus points at 
one end, green peas at the other end of the 
dish, with Toulouse sauce at the sides. 

BLANQUETTE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
— Slices of prepared sweetbreads made hot in a 
light colored Allemande sauce, served with it 
and decorated on the top with slices of truffles. 

CASSEROLE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS— 
Slices of prepared sweetbreads and mushrooms 
made hot in Veloute sauce, the serving dish con- 
taining a high border of potato croquette mix- 
ture glazed and browned, the sweetbreads filled 
into the centre, sprinkled with minced truffle 
peelings and served. 

FRICANDEAU OF SWEETBREADS WITH 
CHICORY — Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
braised as in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, 
Garnished," when done the braise strained, 
skimmed, then poured over the sweetbreads and 
reduced to a glaze ; served on a bed of puree of 
chicory or spinach, with a rich Madeira sauce 
poured around. 

CROUSTADE OF CURRIED CALF'S SWEET- 
BREADS — Prepared sweetbreads split and 
then sliced, made hot in a good curry sauce 



34 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



prepared from the stock they were boiled in, 
filled into paste croustade cases, served two 
cases full alternately with small turned-out 
molds of dry boiled rice. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, MUSH- 
ROOM SAUCE — Prepared sweetbreads split, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, rolled 
in flour, dipped into beaten eggs, fried in hot 
fat, served surrounded with button mushrooms 
in a Maderia sauce. 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS ON 
TOAST — Prepared sweetbreads split and then 
cut in slices, mixed with half the amount of 
sliced mushrooms, made hot in a Maderia 
sauce, served piled on toast with the sauce 
around, garnished with fancy croutons whose 
ends are dipped in sauce, then in chopped pars- 
ley. 

SWEETBREADS ANDTRUFFLES IN SHELL 
— Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices, mixed 
with slices of truffles and mushrooms, made 
hot in a thick Allemande sauce, filled into 
scallop shells, sprinkled with bread crumbs and 
melted butter, browned in the oven or with a 
salamander, and served. 

STEWED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
KIDNEY BEANS — Prepared sweetbreads 
split, and made hot in Veloute sauce containing 
minced shallots, whole mace, pieces of bacon 
and sweet herbs for half an hour, taken up, a 
liaison of egg yolks and cream then beaten into 
the sauce and strained over the sweetbreads ; 
served garnished with sauteed kidney beans 
(flageolets) at ends, sauce at the sides. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH CREAMED 
MUSHROOMS — Prepared sweetbreads cut in 
slices and sauteed in butter piled on toast; 
served surrounded with sliced mushrooms 
boiled down in reduced cream. 

RAGOUT OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
MORELS — Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices 
and sauteed in butter, then mixed into a rich 
Madeira sauce ; served on toast, surrounded 
with sliced morels that have been fried in their 
own oil. 

BRAISED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
SORREL — Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
braised as in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Gar- 
nished"; served on a bed of puree of sorrel, 
with some of the strained and skimmed glaze 
poured over and around. 

KROMESKIES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
— The croquette mixture (see Calf's Sweet- 
bread Croquettes with Peas) when cold, cut out 
and shaped like long corks, then rolled into a 
thin slice of cold boiled bacon, pinned with a 
toothpick, dipped into a plain batter and fried, 
toothpick then removed ; served with a rich 
veloute sauce poured around. 

CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, SAUCE 
VILLEROI — Prepared sweetbreads split and 
coated with cold Villeroi sauce, then rolled in 



bread crumbs, beaten eggs and again bread 
crumbs, fried; served with Villeroi sauce poured 
around, and the ends of dish garnished with 
green peas that have been sauteed in butter. 

FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREADS AND 
MUSHROOMS— Prepared sweetbreads split 
and simmered in sauce Albert, served with it, 
and garnished with button mushrooms that 
have been lightly fried in butter and sprinkled 
with chopped parsley. 

BRAISED SWEETBREADS, SAUCE BEARN- 
AISE — Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
braised (as in Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Gar- 
nished); served decorated at the ends and sides 
with slices of tuffles, and with Bearnaise sauce 
poured around. 

SAUTE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
BAKED TOMATOES— Prepared sweetbreads 
split, rolled in flour, sauteed in butter with 
minced shallots, strips of green peppers and a 
crushed clove of garlic ; when browned, equal 
parts of tomato and Napolitaine sauces added, 
simmered ten minutes, taken up, sauce strained 
over them. Served with some of the sauce and 
garnished with small stuffed and baked toma- 
toes. 

SWEETBREADS BREADED, SAUCE TAR- 
TARE — Prepared sweetbreads split and spread 
on both sides with tartar sauce, rolled in 
crumbs, then breaded and fried ; served with 
Tartar sauce served separately, and garnished 
with lemon and parsley. 

EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS, SAUCE 
BECHAMEL — Prepared sweetbreads split and 
trimmed to a cutlet shape, half of them dipped 
in cooling Bechamel sauce and when cold rolled 
in bread crumbs, then breaded and fried, the 
other half made hot in rich white stock, then 
taken up and dipped in glaze, then coated with 
Bechamel sauce ; served, one of each, sur- 
rounded with scallops of red tongue and sliced 
mushrooms in Bechamel sauce. 

SCALLOPS OF SWEETBREADS WITH 
TOULOUSE RAGOUT — Prepared sweet- 
breads cut in slices, then cut circular with large 
sized column cutter, dipped in cooling Allem- 
ande sauce, then in bread crumbs, afterwards 
breaded and fried a golden color in butter ; 
served overlapping each other round the dish, 
the centre filled with cocks combs and kernels, 
truffles cut in small squares, the trimmings of 
the sweetbreads, and button mushrooms all 
made hot in Allemande sauce. 

SCALLOPS OF SWEETBREADS WITH 
POTATO CROQUETTES— The sweetbreads 
cut and fried as in the preceding recipe, served 
overlapping each other around the dish, the 
centre filled with small potato cone-shaped 
croquettes, the points being dipped in white 
sauce, then in chopped parsley, with a sauce 
Poulette around their base. 

LARDED SWEETBREADS WITH TOU- 
LOUSE RAGOUT —Prepared sweetbreads 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



35 



larded through from top to bottom with alter- 
nate strips of red tongue and truffles, so that 
they resemble a studding ; braised as in 
"Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Garnished"; 
served surrounded with a Toulouse ragout as 
given in "Scallops of Sweetbreads with Tou- 
louse Ragout." 

SWEETBREAD SALAD— Slices of prepared 
sweetbread dipped in flour and fried iu butter, 
allowed to become cold, shredded lettuce in 
centre of the dish with cream salad dressing, 
sweetbreads masked with mayonnaise arranged 
around the lettuce, the lettuce decorated with 
alternate slices of radishes and stamped pieces 
of pickled beet. 

SWEETBREAD SOUP — Minced ham and 
onions with prepared sweetbreads and a bunch 
of sweet herbs slowly sauteed in butter for an 
hour, then flour added to form a paste, this 
then rubbed through a fine sieve, the puree 
then worked into a good veal or chicken stock, 
boiled up and skimmed, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, and a little sugar ; served with small 
croutons browned in the oven (called POTAGE 
alaCOMTESSE). 

CAMEMBERT — Name of an imported cheese, 
put up in round flat boxes like brie. Is in its 
prime when just soft and creamy with an in- 
clination to run ; served in small quantities 
with toasted crackers. 

CANAPES — A French term literally meaning a 
"couch," used in a culinary sense as a bed or 
something to rest savory foods on, usually in 
the form of bread or toast covered with minces, 
pastes, etc., then decorated. 

ANCHOVY CANAPES— Hard boiled eggs and 
anchovies finely minced and spread on buttered 
toast. Also, very shallow gem pans lined with 
pie paste and baked, then filled when cold with 
anchovies pounded to a paste with Gruyere 
cheese, inverted on a circle of buttered toast 
and garnished with minced gherkins. Also, a 
mixture of chopped anchovies, grated ham, 
truffles and gherkins mixed and moistened with 
salad oil and caper vinegar, then filled into 
very small patty cases ; served garnished with 
pieces of toast and aspic jelly. 

CANAPES BERNE, OR SWISS CANAPES— 
Triangle-shaped pieces of toast spread with 
anchovy butter, decorated with minced whites 
of eggs down one side, yolks on the other, and 
the third with minced green gherkins, and a 
stuffed olive in the centre. 

CANAPES OF CRAB— Circles of toast spread 
with deviled crab meat, sprinkled with Parme- 
san cheese and browned in the oven (called 
CANAPE LORENZO). 

CANAPES OF SMOKED SALMON— Strips of 
toast spread with anchovy butter, a thin circle 
of smoked salmon on top, the edges decorated 
with hard boiled eggs minced and mixed with 
chopped parsley. 

CANAPES OF CHICKEN LIVERS— Chicken 



livers sauteed with an onion till tender, then 
pounded to a paste with a dash of anchovy es- 
sence, salt, red pepper and butter, piled in 
pyramid form on fried shapes of bread, smoothed 
with a knife and made hot in the oven ; served 
decorated with slices of pimentoes and rings of 
red chillies. 

CANAPES OF SHRIMPS— Fancy shaped slices 
of toast spread with shrimp paste and decorated 
with coiled shrimps. 

CANAPES OF POTTED TONGUE— Circles 
of brown bread toast spread with potted tongue 
and decorated in lattice form with strips of red 
cooked tongue. 

INDIAN CANAPES— Circles of bread fried in 
butter, spread first with potted ham, then with 
chutney, strewed with Parmesan cheese, 
browned in the oven and served. 

CANAPES OF POTTED HAM— Strips of toast 
spread with potted ham, then sprinkled with 
grated ham, decorated with thin slices of green 
gherkins. 

SARDINE CANAPES— Triangle-shaped pieces 
of toast spread with a mixture of equal parts of 
boiled egg yolks and sardines pounded to a 
paste and seasoned with red pepper and lemon 
juice, decorated with a coiled anchovy out of 
oil in the centre. 

CANAPES OF CAVIAR— Circles of toast, the 
edges spread with anchovy butter, with an 
onion ring as its base, the ring filled with Rus- 
sian caviar. 

OLIVE CANAPES— Circles of buttered toast 
with a coiled anchovy on it, and a stuffed olive 
in the centre of the coil. Also circles of toast 
fried in butter, then spread with anchovy paste, 
minced olives and capers on top. 

CANAPE CHASSEUR— Triangle shaped pieces 
of toast spread with a game forcemeat, the 
edges decorated with another forcemeat of game 
but of different color. 

CANAPES OF OYSTERS — Strips of toast 
spread with blanched and minced oysters mixed 
into a Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with parsley 
dust. Clams may be treated the same way and 
named accordingly. 

SAVORY CANAPES — Strips of toast spread 
with a mixture of grated ham, cheese, cream 
sauce and scrambled eggs, the edges decorated 
with lobster coral. 

CANAPE MADISON— Slices of toast on which 
is laid a thin slice of lean ham spread with 
French mustard, this again is spread with a 
cold white sauce containing minced cooked 
onions, garlic, and cheese; Parmesan cheese is 
then dredged on top, sprinkled with fine bread 
crumbs, baked and served. 

CHICKEN CANAPES— Circles of toast spread 
with chicken forcemeat in which is worked 
cream and butter, dredged with Parmesan 
cheese and baked, then decorated in the centre 
with a stamped piece of white of egg. 

CREOLE CANAPES— Grated lean ham, onion, 



36 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



garlic and chopped parsley with pieces of peeled 
tomatoes and minced green peppers, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, stewed down dry, then 
spread on strips of buttered toast, dredged 
with Parmesan cheese and baked. 
SCOTCH CANAPES— Breast of chicken, red 
tongue and lean ham all cut into very small 
dice, seasoned with nutmeg and a little curry 
powder, then worked into a thick Veloute sauce, 
spread on slices of toast, dredged with Parme- 
san cheese and baked, (also called, CANAPE 
ABERDEEN). 
CANAPE WINDSOR— Strips of toast spread 
with a forcemeat of any kind of white fleshed 
fish, seasoned with mustard and Worcester- 
shire sauce, dredged with Parmesan cheese and 
baked. 
CANAPE CABILLAUD— Triangle shaped pieces 
of toast spread with a forcemeat made of boiled 
salt codfish, mixed with minced green peppers 
and spring onions seasoned with tarragon vine- 
gar, decorated with capers. 
MADRAS CANAPES— Circles of toast spread 
with a mixture of finely minced white fleshed 
fish, Madras chutney and sweet pickles, moist- 
ened with Hollandaise sauce, dredged with 
Parmesan cheese and baked, (also called, 
CANAPE WINCHESTER). 
CHEESE CANAPES— Strips of bread hollowed 
out half their thickness, then toasted, the inner 
part sprayed with Worcestershire sauce, the 
cavity then fitted with a slice of Swiss cheese, 
baked, and served very hot. 
CANNELONS— Name given to hollow lengths of 
noodle or puff paste made by twining strips of 
the paste around a piece of pipe or tubing, 
then either baked or fried, the pipe removed, 
the cannelons may then be filled with force- 
meats, croquette mixtures, creams, preserves, 
etc. 
CANARD — French name for wild duck. Cane- 
ton for domestic duck or duckling. 
CANNED GOODS — The following quotation 
clipped from The Sanitarian is given for the 
reader to form his own views: 
"Under one heading we may consider several 
groups of foodstuffs, which, while different in 
composition, are alike in the form of adulteration 
which is resorted to. These groups include the 
varieties of canned vegetables, fruit butters, jel- 
lies, preserves and catsups. The forms of adul- 
terations, common to all of these, consist in the 
use of coloring matter, of imperfect vegetables or 
fruits, of other vegetables and fruits than those 
called for of preservatives. In the case of can- 
ned vegetables, there is an accidental adultera- 
tion from the ingredients of the can, such as lead 
and tin, and which may, as a rule, be attributed 
to a lack of care in canning. In all the groups 
mentioned, the adulteration practised is one of 
the most flagrant and extensive kind. Catsups 
are made of skins and cores instead of the pure 



vegetables, then colored with a coal tar product 
and loaded with salicylic acid to prevent fermen- 
tation. Fruit butters are nothing but parings 
and scrapings of fruit, to which glucose, starch 
and colorings have been added, with salicylic 
acid as a preservative. Jellies are made from 
glucose, flavored with essential oils and colored, 
to which salicylic acid is added. Some fruit 
jellies marked as pure, have never seen a trace 
of fruit. What is true of jellies is true of pre- 
serves. Put together refuse material, the cheap- 
est sort of glucose, some coloring and salicylic 
acid, and you have the composition of some of 
the cheaper forms of preserves that are to be 
found on the shelves of some of our grocery 
stores. Of these coarser forms of adulterations 
it will be unnecessary to say even a word; they 
are universally recognized as being unfit for use 
and every honest dealer is of the opinion that tlie 
sooner they are driven out of the market the 
better it will be for trade." 

CANTELOUPES— Are of different kinds in our 
markets; although the "Nutmeg" is pronounced 
the best, many have a distinct fancy for the 
"Osage" with its thick yellow fruit. In select- 
ing the nutmegs, those which have a thick 
broad cording on the rind, and with the section 
marks inclined to a yellow color, will be found 
the best fruit. To be served they are first kept 
on ice, then scrubbed or washed, split in halves 
lengthwise, pith and seeds removed, and the 
cavity filled with small broken ice; eaten by 
some with powdered sugar, by others with salt 
and pepper. 

CAPERCAILZIE— A game bird of the grouse 
species, the male bird differing greatly from 
the hen in that it attains to twice the size, has 
dark brown wings, and a dark greeny gold neck, 
while the hen in appearance and plumage is 
very like a prairie hen. This bird must always 
be hung for a week or so to become tender; it 
may then be cooked in all the ways of prairie 
chickens. 

CAPERS — Are a berry of a plant cultivated in 
Europe and not in America; are spoken of in 
the bible as "hyssop". They are imported 
here in five sizes: "Nonpariels", "Capotes", 
'Capuchins", "Seconds" and "Thirds", in 
bottles and in bulk, the latter way being the 
cheapest for hotel use. Capers, however, are 
often mixed by Unscrupulous dealers with 
"nasturtium" berries which resemble them in 
size and appearance. The caper is only used 
for making sauces, or in garnishing. 

CAPONS — Are young fowls that have been steri- 
lized, secluded and fattened, which improves 
the delicacy and flavor of their flesh, and also 
allows them to grow to a much larger size. 
They are best in the fall of the year. The city 
of Philadelphia seems to have got the name of 
producing the best, and when placed on the 
bill of fare, no matter what part of the country, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



37 



are generally designated, "Philadelphia Ca- 
pon". 

ROAST CAPON STUFFED WITH RICE— 
Draw, singe and wash the birds, wiped dry, 
the inside filled with rice that has been boiled 
in stock; seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg 
and a few herbs; when filled, trussed, breast 
covered with bacon and tied with string, 
roasted and basted; when nearly done, the 
bacon removed, the breast browned; served 
garnished with watercress, and some Veloute 
sauce. 

ROAST CAPONS WITH NOODLES — The 
birds drawn, singed, washed and trussed, the 
breast filled with a savory stuffing, bacon tied 
over the breast, then roasted; served with some 
boiled noodles that are mixed into Allemande 
sauce, with a little Parmesan cheese at one 
end, and Allemande sauce at the other. 

BRAISED CAPON WITH CHIPOLATA GAR- 
NISH — Capons drawn, singed, washed, wiped, 
larded on the breast, trussed, put in sauce pan 
with vegetables, herbs and spices, moistened 
half way up with white stock and a glass of 
white wine, covered with buttered paper, 
braised till done and glazy. Served garnished 
with small sausages, blanched and peeled chest- 
nuts, button mushrooms, small glazed onions 
and pieces of cooked bacon all made hot in a 
good roast fowl gravy. 

BRAISED CAPONS, SAUCE SUPREME — 
Prepared and braised as in the preceding; 
served with Supreme sauce poured around, and 
decorated with strips of cooked tongue and 
watercress. 

ROAST CAPON STUFFED, GIBLET SAUCE 
- -The birds prepared, then filled with a savory 
stuffing, trussed, bacon tied over the breast, 
roasted and basted till done, bacon then re- 
moved, and the breast quickly browned; served 
with a sauce made from the residue of the 
roasting pan, with minced and sauteed giblets 
worked into it; garnished with watercress. 

BOILED CAPON WITH SALT PORK — The 
capon prepared and the breast filled with 
chicken forcemeat, then trussed, boiled in white 
stock with a piece of salt pork, served with a 
sauce poured aiound, made from the stock it 
was boiled in, to which is added chopped pars- 
ley and flanked with thin slices of pork. 

BRAISED CAPONS WITH TOMATOED 
RICE — The birds prepared, the breast cov- 
ered with bacon, braised with vegetables and 
spices; when done, taken up, and the braise 
strained, skimmed, and added to a Veloute 
sauce. Rice boiled in chicken stock till done, 
drained, mixed with a tomato puree; served 
with a small mold of the rice turned out on end 
of dish with some of the sauce poured around. 

BRAISED CAPONS WITH QUENELLES, 
SAUCE PERIGUEUX— Prepared and braised 
as in the preceding, the braise strained, skim- 
med, reduced to glaze, then mixed into a Peri- 



gueux sauce; served with the sauce poured 
around, and garnished with small quenelles of 
chicken dipped into parsley sauce. 

BOILED CAPON, MUSHROOM SAUCE — 
The birds drawn, washed, singed and trussed, 
bacon tied over the breast, boiled in white 
stock, sauce made from the stock, some mush- 
room puree worked into it, also some whole 
button mushrooms that have been sauteed in 
butter; served surrounded with the mushrooms 
in sauce. 

STEWED CAPON WITH VEGETABLES— 
The birds prepared, then disjointed into por- 
tion pieces, lightly fried in butter, then ar- 
ranged in a sautoir with slices of carrot, onions 
and a bunch of sweet herbs, moistened with 
stock and a glass of Madeira wine, stewed 
slowly till tender; served garnished with a 
macedoine of vegetables made hot in Madeira 
sauce. 

BOILED CAPON WITH TONGUE AND 
CAULIFLOWER — The birds prepared and 
boiled as in Boiled Capon, Mushroom Sauce; 
served with a slice of braised smoked tongue, 
and garnished with flowerets of cauliflower in 
Bechamel sauce. 

BOILED CAPON WITH MILANAISE GAR- 
NISH — Prepared and boiled as above, and 
served surrounded with a garnish of boiled 
macaroni in inch lengths, with strips of cooked 
tongue, sliced mushrooms and minced truffle 
peelings made hot in a Veloute sauce. 

BOILED STUFFED CAPON, CELERY 
SAUCE — The birds prepared, then stuffed 
with celery, the skin rubbed with lemon juice, 
bacon tied over the breast, boiled in white 
stock, sauce made from it, into which is worked 
strips of blanched celery about an inch long, 
the celery then simmered in the sauce till ten- 
der; served with the sauce poured around, and 
garnished with green celery tops. 

CAPSICUMS— Are better known as chillies or 
peppers; they are of two shapes, the long thin 
dark red, which is used in vinegars, pickles, 
and to grind into red pepper; and the 
round green bell shaped, which is generally 
stuffed and baked, or cut up into many sauces, 
soups and garnitures. 

CARAMEL — Is a term used by cooks for burnt 
sugar thinned with water, and used to color 
soups, sauces, gravies, syrups, icecreams, etc., 
that require a brown tint without a pronounced 
flavoring. 

CARBONADE — A French term applied to denote 
a stew composed of cold meats, generally sea- 
soned with onions and garlic, such as carbonade 
of beef, mutton, etc. 

CARAWAY — Name of seeds of a wild plant used 
in distilling, for cordial and cake flavoring. 

CARDINAL— Name applied to foods, sauces and 
drinks, that are colored a bright red. 

CARDOONS — A vegetable resembling sea-kale, 
but the stalks are feathery, Plentifully grown 



38 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 
may be treated the same as sea- 



in Canada; 
kale. 

CARMINE — A red coloring used for syrups, 
sauces, cakes, etc., obtained from the cochineal 
insect; made by bruising four ounces of coch- 
ineal insects and soaking for a few minutes in 
three pints of cold water, then put to boil with 
two ounces of common washing soda; when 
boiling, removed to where it simmers only, 
then slowly is added two ounces of rock alum, 
then four ounces of cream of tartar, boiled up 
for two minutes, strained, and when cold, 
bottled for use. 

CARP — A fresh water fish, in season from Sep- 
tember to May; is highly esteemed, anduts roe 
is nearly equal to that of the Shad. 

BAKED CARP, SAUCE MATELOTE— The 
fish scaled and trimmed, filled with savory stuf- 
fing, sewn up, scored into cutting portions, the 
back dipped in beaten eggs, then in bread 
crumbs, laid in pan, back sprinkled with melted 
butter, moistened with a little red wine and 
consomme, a few slices of onions added, slowly 
baked till done, taken up, the residue of the 
pan strained into a matelote sauce, the fish 
served with it, and garnished with Duchesse 
potatoes. 

BAKED CARP, SAUCE GENOISE— The fish 
scaled, trimmed and stuffed as above, sewn up, 
scored, baked in Genoise sauce, served with it, 
and garnished with potatoes Bignonne. 

BRAISED STUFFED CARP, SAUCE ALLE- 
MANDE — The fish scaled, trimmed, stuffed 
with fish forcemeat, sewn up, the skin then 
spread with more forcemeat, placed in a sau- 
toir with vegetables and spices, moistened with 
fish stock and white wine, covered with buttered 
paper, slowly braised till done, taken up, braise 
strained, skimmed, and added to an Allemande 
sauce, served with it, and garnished with Hol- 
landaise potatoes. 

BOILED CARP, CAPER SAUCE— The fish 
scaled and trimmed, either left whole, or cut 
into portions, placed in sautoir with an onion 
stuck with cloves and a bunch of herbs, cov- 
ered with good beef gravy and a little port wine, 
boiled slowly till done, sauce made from the 
liquor it was boiled in; when done, capers and 
caper vinegar added to it; served with the fish, 
garnished with Conde potatoes. 

BROILED CARP, LEMON PARSLEY BUT- 
TER — The fish scaled, trimmed, washed, dried 
and filleted, scored across the skin, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then dip- 
ped in olive oi!, broiled, served with Maitre 
D'Hotel butter poured over and garnished with 
chip potatoes, lemon and parsley. 

BROILED STUFFED CARP.FINES-HERBES 
SAUCE — Fish a pound each in weight, scaled, 
trimmed and washed, filled with a forcemeat 
made of minced mushrooms, small pieces of 
any cooked fish, chopped parsley, hard boiled 



eggs, minced chives and shallots, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg; sewn up, scored, 
rolled in oil paper, and slowly broiled till done 
through; served with fines-herbes sauce poured 
over and garnished with Julienne potatoes. 

FRIED CARP, PIQUANTE SAUCE— The fish 
scaled, trimmed, washed, dried, rubbed with 
lemon juice, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, dipped in beaten eggs, fried; 
served with Piquante sauce poured around, 
garnished with lemon and parsley, and sur- 
rounded with Parisienne potatoes. 

BOILED CARP ROES, SAUCE SUPREME— 
The roes washed, then steeped for an hour in 
cold water with vinegar, slowly boiled in light 
consomme with lemon juice in it; served with 
supreme sauce poured over, and garnished with 
potatoes Anglaise. 

FRIED CARP ROES, SAUCE TARTARE— 
The roes washed and steeped as above, then 
blanched in salted vinegar water, taken out and 
wiped dry, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
lemon juice, breaded, fried; served with tartar 
sauce poured around, garnished with lemon, 
parsley and chip potatoes. 

SCALLOPED CARP ROES IN SHELL— The 
roes cleansed, steeped and blanched, then 
boiled in salted vinegar water till done; taken 
up, cut into dice with mushrooms, put into a 
Veloute sauce with a little lobster coral, then 
filled into scallop shells, sprinkled with bread 
crumbs and melted butter, baked and served. 

PATTIES OF CARP ROES— The preceding 
mixture filled into patty shells; served with the 
top sprinkled with lobster coral, and Veloute 
sauce poured around. 

CARP SAUTE, ADMIRAL SAUCE— The fish 
a pound each in weight, scaled, trimmed, 
washed, dried, scored, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, rolled in flour, slowly fried in butter 
till done; served surrounded with Admiral 
sauce, garnished with parsley, lemon and Vic- 
toria potatoes. 

CARROTS — A vegetable that in this country en- 
ters into almost every soup, sauce, ragout, etc., 
for its flavor, and in the early summer when 
new and about two inches long, are relished as 
an accompaniment to fresh boiled beef, New 
England dinner, etc. 

NEW CARROTS IN CREAM — The carrots 
washed and scraped, then boiled tender in boil- 
ing salted water, taken up and drained, then 
simmered in reduced cream or thin cream 
sauce; served as a vegetable. 

SAUTE OF NEW CARROTS— Washed, scraped 
and boiled as above, then sauteed in butter, 
taken up, and mixed into Maitre D'Hotel but- 
ter; served as a garnish. 

BRAISED NEW CARROTS, PARSLEY 
SAUCE — The carrots washed and scraped, 
then braised in consomme to a glaze, taken up; 
served on small platters with some parsley 
sauce at the end, as a vegetable. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



39 



GLAZED NEW CARROTS WITH BUTTER 
— Prepared and glazed as in the preceding, 
taken up, dipped in melted butter and used as 
a garnish. 

NEW CARROTS IN BROWN GRAVY — 
Glazed as above, taken up, put into a rich 
brown gravy; served as a garnish sprinkled 
with parsley, or as a vegetable. 

STEWED CARROTS WITH GREEN PEAS— 
New carrots cored with a column cutter, then 
cut in thin slices, stewed in consomme till 
tender; green peas boiled in salted water with 
a bunch of fresh mint, strained off when done, 
and mixed with the carrots; served as a vege- 
table. 

NEW CARROTS IN POULETTE SAUCE— 
Washed and scraped, then boiled in boiling 
salted water till tender, drained off and then 
mixed into Poulette sauce and served as a 
vegetable. 

CURRIED CARROTS WITH RICE— Vegetar- 
ian entree — The carrots prepared and cooked 
(as in Braised New Carrots, Parsley Sauce), 
then taken up and mixed into a good curry 
sauce made of cream; served in the center of a 
border of dry boiled rice. 

CARROT SALAD WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS 
— The carrots glazed and when cold the tips 
dipped into Ravigote sauce, arranged alter- 
nately on dish with points of asparagus sprink- 
led with Vinaigrette sauce, and garnished with 
shred lettuce. 

CARROT SOUP— Plenty of carrots with a few 
soup vegetables boiled in stock with a piece of 
corned beef; when meat is done, taken up, the 
soup then made thick with roux, then rubbed 
through a fine sieve, boiled up again, seasoned 
and skimmed; served with croutons, (called, 
PUREE CRECY). 

CARVING— To carve a LOIN OF MUTTON 
OR VEAL, begin at the small end and cut 
between the ribs. A FILLET OF VEAL 
should be cut first from the top, and in a 
BREAST OF VEAL, the breast and brisket 
should first be separated, then cut across. A 
SIRLOIN OF BEEF should be placed with 
the tenderloin down, thin cut slices should be 
cut from the side next the carver, then turn 
over the roast and carve from underneath; a 
slice of both should be served. In restaurants 
the sirloin is generally all used up in Porter- 
house steaks. A RIB ROAST should be put 
on the carving table thick end down and stand- 
ing upright, the first two ribs cut off to be used 
for well done orders, the chine removed, and 
broad level thin slices served, with gravy 
poured under. SHORT RIBS should be 
served with the bone left in. A LEG OF 
MUTTON should be carved across the middle 
of the bone first and then from the thickest 
part till the gristle is reached. A few nice 
slices can be cut from the smaller end, but it 
is usually hard and stringy. A HAM can be 



served in several ways: by cutting long delicate 
slices through the thick fat down to the bone; 
by running the point of the knife in a circle in 
the middle and cutting thin circular slices, 
thus keeping the ham moist; or, by beginning 
at the knuckle end and slicing upwards; the 
latter is the most economical. A TONGUE 
should be carved in very thin slices, its delicacy 
depending upon this; the slices from the center 
are considered the most tempting, and should 
be cut across and the slices taken from both 
sides with a portion of the fat from the root. 
In carving FISH, practice is required in order 
to prevent the flakes from breaking; the choic- 
est morsels of all large fish are near the head, 
the thin parts come next; the flavor nearest 
the bone is never equal to that on the upper 
part; a fish knife should always be used. 
FOWLS should be placed breast up, the fork 
put into the breast to steady the bird, then cut 
off the wings and legs, cut out the breast bone 
so as to leave a well browned skin over it and 
the white meat, cut off the side bones and di- 
vide what is left in two from the neck down, 
remove the second joint from the leg and wing. 
TENDERLOINS should have the tip cut off 
and then cut in medium thick slices across. 
HEARTS should be cut wedge shaped with 
some of the dressing. FOREQUARTERS 
OF LAMB should have the shoulder lifted off, 
and a slice of the shoulder and rib served to- 
gether. GOOSE should be carved lengthwise 
of the breast from the point downwards. 
DUCKLINGS should simply be cut into four 
quarters. DUCKS carved same as goose. 
PARTRIDGE and PHEASANTS same as fowls 
if large; if small partridge, split lengthwise in 
three, removing the backbone of the center cut. 
SQUABS, PLOVERS and QUAIL split length- 
wise in halves. All SMALL GAME left whole. 

CASSEROLE — French name for a saucepan. It 
is also the name of a metal or earthenware 
tureen with a flat bottom, fitted with lid and 
handles. Various entrees are cooked and 
served "en casserole", thus forming a pot roast 
or kind of braise. 

CASSOLETTE — Are small cups formed of rice 
croquette mixture either sweet or savory; when 
formed, either rolled in flour only, or else 
breaded and fried; made to hold entrees, jel- 
lies, fruits, etc. 

CASSIA — Is the name of a small tree which 
yields a bark that has less aroma, but is hard 
otherwise to detect from cinnamon; it is ground 
and made into oils and extracts, and passed off 
for cinnamon generally without detection. 

CATFISH — Are of two kinds or main varieties, 
the "sea catfish" and "river catfish". Both 
are good for food, yet they are not of the same 
species. They are seldom, if ever, put on 
hotel bills of fare other than as "Fried catfish", 
"Catfish saute", "Braised catfish with toma- 
toes", etc., or as "Catfish chowder". 



4° 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BOILED CAULIFLOWER, HOLLANDAISE 
SAUCE— The cauliflower trimmed, laid in 
salted water for an hour, then boiled in salted 
boiling water with a dash of vinegar in it till 
tender, taken up and drained; served with 
Hollandaise sauce poured around; may also be 
served this way with tomato sauce. 

STEWED CAULIFLOWER— The cauliflower 
prepared and boiled as above, then taken up 
and sectioned, arranged in a sautoir, covered 
with butter sauce and simmered; served as a 
vegetable. 

BAKED CAULIFLOWER— Stewed as in the 
preceding, then placed into baking dish, cov- 
ered with bread crumbs and grated cheese, 
sprinkled with butter and baked. 

SCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER— Same as the 
preceding, but filled into scallop shells instead 
of baking dish; served in the shells. 

FRIED CAULIFLOWER, ALLEMANDE 
SAUCE — The stewed cauliflower above, taken 
up, dipped into batter and fried; served with 
Allemande sauce poured around. 

CAULIFLOWER WITH MAYONNAISE — 
Cold boiled cauliflower in flowerets, marinaded 
in French dressing, arranged on a leaf of let- 
tuce around the dish, with mayonnaise in the 
center. 

CAULIFLOWER SALAD— Cold boiled cauli- 
flowerets covered with cream salad dressing, 
arranged in center of dish, garnished with small 
balls of beets. 

PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER— One-third Ve- 
loute sauce, one-third chicken stock, mixed and 
brought to the boil, minced cauliflower stalks 
and roots boiled in it till tender with a little 
thyme and parsley; when done, rubbed through 
a fine sieve, brought to the boil again and one- 
third of the whole of cream sauce then added; 
served with croutons. 

CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER— Same as the 
preceding, but when finished, very small flow- 
erets added before serving. 

CAULIFLOWER SAUCE— Into a good butter 
sauce is worked some very small flowerets of 
boiled cauliflower with a little puree, (good for 
boiled poultry). 

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER — Cauliflowers 
boiled till tender in flowerets, then put into 
jars, and covered with the following pickle: 
One pound of dry mustard mixed with one 
ounce of turmeric, then moistened with vinegar. 
One gallon of vinegar brought to the boil, the 
mustard and turmeric paste stirred into it, 
brought to the simmer and when beginning to 
thicken, one pound of sugar, half a pint of olive 
oil, and two ounces of mustard seed succes- 
sively added to it, simmered for a few minutes, 
then poured boiling hot over the cauliflowers 
in the jars. 

CAVIAR — Is a preparation made from the roes 
of sturgeon, can be bought at the grocery stores 



in cans; it is considered by epicuies to be one 
of the finest of appetizers. 
CAVIAR ON TOAST WITH OLIVES — One 
part each of Russian caviar, soft bread crumbs, 
and blanched and peeled Jordan almonds mixed 
together and minced into a paste, spread on 
strips of toast, the edges garnished with slices 
of stoned olives. 
CAVIAR TARTINES— Russian caviar spread 
on toast, and the edges decorated with finely 
chopped green gherkins, parsley and sweet 
peppers mixed together. 
CANAPES OF CAVIAR— Circles of toast, the 
edges spread with anchovy paste, with an onion 
ring as its base, the ring filled with Russian 
caviar. 
EGGS STUFFED WITH CAVIAR— Cut slices 
of hard boiled eggs, the yolks removed, its 
place filled with Russian caviar; served on thin 
slices of buttered brown bread. 
CAVIAR WITH EGG— Slices of toast, the edges 
piped with beaten whites of eggs, caviar 
sprinkled on top, whole yolk of raw egg dropped 
in the center, baked till set, and served hot. 
CAVIAR CROUSTADES— Very small paste 
croustades half an inch deep filled with caviar, 
on it placed a freshly opened blue point oyster; 
served garnished with lemon and watercress. 
CELERY — Is an aromatic plant cultivated largely 
as a flavoring vegetable and for uses of salads. 
It is generally sent to table in a raw condition, 
is the one and proper thing to eat with "canvas 
back duck". Kalamazoo, Michigan, is the 
great celery raising spot in this country. When 
the celery industry was started in Kalamazoo, 
it was not for several years that the enterpris- 
ing pioneers in this industry discovered that 
the thousands of acres of river bottom lands 
surrounding the city were especially adapted 
in the raising of celery to the pinnacle of es- 
teem and popular favor it now holds. Visitors 
to Kalamazoo ate it, and carried away marve- 
lous tales of its delicacy, orders to purchase 
and forward were sent back to friends and ex- 
press agents, and the industry that was destined 
to make Kalamazoo famous as the celery city 
was born. At the present time there are thous- 
ands of acres under cultivation, and celery 
finds its way from Kalamazoo to every part of 
the United States and special shipments have 
been sent by steamer to Liverpool and London. 
In raising celery the seed is first sown during 
the winter months in specially prepared hot 
houses, of which there are acres under glass, 
the plants are transplanted, thinned out, and 
about the first of May are again transplanted 
to the fields, being planted in specially prepared 
trenches in double rows. There it is carefully 
looked after, cultivated and irrigated, and when 
of the proper size, the rich black soil is drawn 
up around the plants from both sides, until it 
forms a bank reaching nearly to the top of the 
leaves. About fourteen days is required for 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



4i 



the plant to acquire that silvery whiteness and 
delicate crispness so enjoyed by every lover of 
celery. The shipping season then commences, 
and celery is taken from the fields to the pack- 
ing rooms, carefully washed and tied in bunches 
of twelve heads each, packed and delivered to 
the express company for shipment. The fall 
crop, which is abundant later, is taken from 
the fields about the first of November, and is 
placed in specially constructed houses for pre- 
servation during the cold weather months. The 
season usually commences about the first of 
July and closes about February. From its 
start as the appetizer, in front of a good dinner, 
its rare beauty as a table ornament, etc., the 
rise of celery to popular appreciation was rapid. 
The use of celery and its adaptability in the 
preparation of table condiments is well seen on 
the grocers' shelves. There is canned celery 
for cooking only; chopped celery put up in such 
a manner as to retain its crispness and good 
quality for use at any time in the preparation 
of salads; celery pickles, celery mustard, celery 
salt, celery pepper, celery extracts and tonic, 
in fact everything that can be manufactured 
from it in any way. Chopped and canned 
celery are especially adapted to the wants of 
the "Chef" as they are always ready at any 
season of the year, and particularly useful are 
they at the season when good celery is not ob- 
tainable. There is also manufactured a pre- 
pared salad ready for the table, whose flavor 
and excellence is as surprising as it is delicious. 

CREAM OF CELERY— Into a good veal or 
chicken stock is put a knuckle of ham, a few 
onions, plenty of outside stalks of celery, and a 
few blades of mace; boiled till celery is soft, 
ham then taken out and the soup thickened 
with roux and rubbed through a fine sieve, 
boiled up again with the addition of an equal 
quantity of Bechamel sauce, seasoned and 
served (also called puree). 

PUREE OF CELERY AND ONIONS — Same 
as the preceding, but using a puree of onions 
or sauce soubise to add with the celery puree, 
instead of Bechamel. 

CELERY CONSOMME— The vegetables in the 
consomme stock composed mostly of celery, to 
give it a pronounced flavor; when strained and 
skimmed, Julienne strips of boiled celery added 
to it, seasoned and served. 

STEWED CELERY ON TOAST— Celery stalks 
all cut about the same size like asparagus, 
boiled tender in salted water, taken up and 
arranged in a sautoir, moistened with Veloute 
sauce, simmered; served with one end resting 
on toast, with some of the sauce poured over 
the ends. 

CELERY PATTIES— The hearts of eight heads 
of celery boiled till tender, drained, then 
pounded to a paste with a cupful each of grated 
ham, cream, and fine bread crumbs seasoned 



with salt, pepper and a little butter, the mix- 
ture steamed till it thickens, then filled into 
patty cases and served hot. 

BAKED CELERY WITH CHEESE— The cel- 
ery cut into inch lengths like macaroni, boiled 
in salted water till tender, drained, mixed with 
a little grated ham and chopped green celery 
leaves, arranged in layers in baking dish, each 
layer sprinkled with grated cheese; when full, 
moistened with Veloute sauce, sprinkled with 
grated bread crumbs mixed with cheese, then 
with melted butter and baked. 

CELERY WITH MARROW— The stewed cel- 
ery (as in Stewed Celery on Toast) served on 
toast spread with marrow; served garnished 
with slices of cooked marrow. 

FRIED CELERY, SAUCE VILLEROI— Three- 
inch lengths of celery stalk boiled not quite 
done in salted water, drained, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, breaded and fiied; served with 
Villeroi sauce poured around. 

BOILED CELERY WITH ONIONS — Stalks 
of celery about three inches long, small onions 
of an even size, both boiled together in veal 
stock till tender; served, the celery on toast 
masked with Bechamel sauce, garnished with 
onions. 

CELERY FRITTERS — Celery stalks three 
inches long, tied in bundles three stalks thick, 
boiled till tender in salted water, taken up and 
drained, seasoned with salt, pepper ard Par- 
mesan cheese, string removed, dipped in batter 
and fried; served as a vegetable. 

BRAISED CELERY ON TOAST— Celery stalks 
all of an even size, boiled not quite done in 
salted water, then arranged in a sautoir, and 
moistened with strong chicken stock and a 
piece of glaze, stewed down rich; served on 
toast with the glaze poured over it. 

CELERY SAUTE— Celery stalks of an even size, 
blanched, then arranged in a sautoir with some 
bacon trimmings and a minced shallot, heated 
thoroughly, then moistened with equal parts of 
tomato and Espagnole sauces, simmered till 
done; served on toast with the sauce poured 
over. 

MAYONNAISE OF CELERY— The tender parts 
only should be used by cutting them into pencil 
strips an inch long, washing thoroughly, then 
drained and mixed with mayonnaise; served on 
a leaf of lettuce. 

CELERIAC--A form of celery with a bulbous 
root, used as a salad and for flavoring, but little 
used in hotel work. 

CEPES— A strongly flavored flat headed mush- 
room, imported in cans, preserved in olive oil. 

SAUTE OF CEPES ON TOAST — Drained 
from their oil, lightly fried in pan, when thor- 
oughly heated, sprinkled with lemon juice and 
chopped parsley, arranged on toast, and served 
very hot. 

STEWED CEPES ON TOAST— The cepes 
drained from their oil and then cut in slices, 



42 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



arranged in a sautoir with chopped parsley, 
minced onions and garlic, moistened with Es- 
pagnole sauce, simmered; served on toast with 
sauce around. 

BROILED CEPES ON TOAST— Drained from 
their oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in fresh bread crumbs, broiled; served on toast 
with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them, 
and garnished with lemon and parsley. 

OMELET WITH CEPES— The cepes drained, 
cut in slices, fried in butter with a crushed 
clove of garlic, taken up and mixed with a little 
Colbert sauce; served enclosed in a savory 
omelet, with more of the cepes in sauce poured 
around. 

CERCELLES — The French name sometimes 
seen on bills of fare for "Teal". 

CERVELAS — The French name for a highly 
spiced small sausage of the bologna order; can 
be purchased at the Italian and Delicatessen 
stores. 

CEREALINE — A white flaky pudding material 
prepared from Indian corn; also boiled plain 
and eaten with cream as a breakfast cereal; 
made into puddings according to the various 
recipes of the vendors, printed on the sides of 
the packets in which it is sold. 

CERVELLES — French name for animal brains, 
for recipes, see "brains". 

CHABLIS — The name of a white French wine, 
principally used for cooking purposes, but some 
of the brands of the genuine article are highly 
prized for their digestive and health giving 
qualities, such as Montrachet, Clos, Blanchot 
and Moutonne. 

CHAFING DISH— A vessel heated from the 
underneath by a spirit lamp, also by electricity; 
is used for keeping and serving foods hot, or 
cooking on the table; for recipes, see "Chafing 
Dish Cookery" in the ' 'CHEF'S REMINDER". 

CHAMPAGNE— A wine prepared from grapes; 
the best varieties are manufactured at Epernay, 
Rheims and Mareuil in France, but the vin- 
tages of each year are vastly different, and 
sometimes the grape crop is a dismal failure. 
Hence champagne drinkers in Europe and 
Great Britain are versed on the merits and de- 
merits of the various vintages. While in the 
United States, but very little attention has thus 
far been paid to the matter; the following clip- 
ping from the Hotel World of London, Eng- 
land, will doubtless be of interest: 

Yield in 
Year gallons Character of the wines 

1891 3,548,292 Passable, but very dear. 
1890 5,573,(556 Ordinary quality, 
1889 6,109,994 Very good, price excessively high. 
1888 4,639,098 Passable. 
18^7 10,409,278 Fairly good, light. . 

1886 6,525,398 Some good wines, with abundance of vln- 
osity; but for the most part the vintage 
is under suspicion, which time has not so 
far lessened. 
8,199.070 Mediocre, resembling the 1883's. 
11,528,916 Fine elegant wines, highly prized by con- 
noisseurs. 
9,051. 4G0 Mediocre and dear; acid. 
7,0a8 568 Mediocre; acid; immature. 
14,627,140 Passable. 



1879 


2.008.776 


1878 


11,898,546 


1877 


10,407.694 


1876 


16,120,786 


1875 


21.710,346 


1874 


8,178,544 


1873 


3,138.718 


1872 


4,480,960 


1871 


5,465,306 


1870 


4960.010 


1869 


8.542.886 


1868 


12,316,700 


1867 


3.889,356 


1866 


19.449.870 


1865 


14,314,542 



1880 2,423,236 Very good; lighter than the 1874's, exces- 
sively dear. 

Complete fa'.lure, yield small, fortunately 

Good; line ; light. 

Mediocre; acid. 

Mediocre. 

Passable. 

Very fine, both as to vlnosity and color. 
has teen greatly sought after. 

Bad; acid, and notwithstanding that, dear. 

Fairly good. 

Mediocre. 

Good. 

Passable. 

Very good, elegant, and lighter than the 
1865's. 

Mediocre. 

Bad. 

Wine of superior quality ; very vinous. 

CHANTILLY — Is the title given by confectioners 
to a form of basket made of cakes, choux paste, 
candied peels, almond paste, etc., filled with 
whipped cream. Chantilly cream is simply 
whipped cream. 

CHANTILLY SOUP— Fresh green peas, a bunch 
of fresh mint, some green onion tops and a 
piece of salt pork boiled together in good chick- 
en stock; when done the pork removed, the 
stock thickened with roux, then rubbed through 
a sieve, the puree boiled up again and seasoned; 
served with croutons. 

CHARCOAL— One of the kitchen essentials for 
good broiling, should be kept dry in a good 
cellar; often times bought by the load, the load 
presumed to contain so many bushels; when 
happening to be delivered as many things are 
in bulk, during the steward's absence, the fol- 
lowing capacities of cribs and boxes for pota- 
toes and other root vegetables, coal, charcoal, 
etc., will be found reliable and useful: 
[The United States standard (Winchester) 

bushel, 18^ inches in diameter, and 8 inches 

deep, contains 2150.42 cubic inches] 
One cubic foot equals four fifths of a bushel. 



A box 3x3x3 — 27 cubic feet 


and holds 21 3/5 bushels 


A box 5x3x2 — 30 " " 


n 


A box 5xlx3 — 45 " " 


36 


A box 5x3x4 — 60 " " 


" " 48 


A box 7x.S.\3.9 — 13134 " " 


•' 104 1/3 " 


A box 7x7x7 — 343 " " 


'• 1,74 2/5 " 


A box 8x8x8 — 512 " " 


" 40J3/5 " 


A box 10x10x10— 1000 " " 


" 800 " 



1885 

1884 

1883 
1882 
1881 



CHARLOTTE — Is the name given to what might 
be called a shell of bread, cake, lady fingers, 
etc., cut to fit into a mold or pan, which is then 
filled with fruits, creams, custards, etc. 

CHARTREUSE — Is the name of a liqueur made 
in three colors, green, yellow and white; origi- 
nally made by the monks of a French monastery 
at Dauphine, in the Alps mountains. There 
are, however, dishes dedicated to these monks, 
called "chartreuses"; they are made of various 
rich foods, such as prairie hens, fish, partridges, 
larks, snipe, squabs, chickens, fruits, etc., en- 
closed in a mold or shell of a much more com- 
mon material, being a disguise, inasmuch as 
the monks were under severe dicipline, and 
were supposed to be very frugal. Recipes for 
chartreuses will be found under the respective 
food which demands it. 

CHASSEUR— Is the French word for "hunter"; 
a la Chasseur means hunter's style, sauce 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



43 



Chasseur, hunter's sauce, made from the pro- 
ceeds of the hunt. 

CHATEAUBRIAND— Is the name given to a 
style of cooking a tenderloin steak between two 
others of inferior cuts and then pressing the 
juice of the two outside ones over the fillet. 
But some cooks simply take a fillet steak, split, 
stuff and broil it, serve it with a Maitre D'Hotel 
butter mixed with beef glaze, and call that 
"Chateaubriand". History says the first is 
right. 

CHAUDFROID— Literally means hot-cold, and 
is applied to dishes that are prepared hot, then 
made into a form more suitable to eat cold, 
such as chaudfroid of game, fowl, partridge, 
woodcocks, larks, reedbirds, pheasants, plovers, 
quail and turkey, for recipes of which see the 
sub-heading of the articles mentioned. 

CHEESE — A most nutritious food, forming many 
excellent dishes; it is of various kinds, of which 
the following are to be found in good hotels: 
Skim, cream, full cream, cheddar, stilton, 
roquefort, camembert, brie, neufchatel, par- 
mesan, edam, gorgonzola, gruyere, port-du- 
salut, sage, sap-sago, and sometimes on the bar 
and in German clubs may be found Limburger, 
to describe which the following story will aid 
without further comment: 

LIMBURGER CHEESE— Ma sent me to pay a bill at the 
grocers last Saturday. The bos behind the counter made 
me a present of something wrapped In a piece of silver 
paper, which he told me was a piece of Limburger cheese. 
When I got outside the shop I opened the paper, and when 
1 smelt what was inside I felt tired. I took It home and put 
It in the coal shed. In the morning I went to It again. It 
was still there. Nobody had taken it. I wondered what I 
could do with it. Father and mother were getting ready to 
go to church. 1 put a piece in the back pocket of father's 
pants, and another piece In the lining of ma's muff. I 
walked behind when we started for church. It was begin- 
ning to get warm. When we got in church, father looked 
anxious and mother looked as if something had happened- 
After the first hymn, mother told father not to sing again, 
but to keep his mouth shut, and breathe through his nose. 
After the prayer, prespiration stood on father's face, and 
the people in the next pew to ours got up and went out. 
After the next hymn father whispered to mother that he 
thought she had better go out and air herself. After the 
second lesson, some of the church wardens came round to 
see If there were any stray rats in the church. Some more 
people near our pew got up and went out, putting their 
handkerchiefs to their noses as tbey went. The parson 
said they had better close the service, and hold a meeting 
outside to discuss the sanitary condition of the church. 
Father told mother they had better go home one at a time. 
Mother told father to go the nearest way home and disinfect 
himself before she came. When they got home, they both 
went into the front room, but did not speak for some time- 
Mother spoke first, and told father to put the cat out of the 
room, as she thought it was going to be sick. It was sick 
before father could get it out. Mother then turned round, 
and noticed that the canary was dead. Mother told father 
not to sit so near to the Are, as it made matters worse. 
Father told mother to go and smother herself. Mother said 
she thought she was smothered already. Just then the 
servant came in, and asked if she should open the windows, 
as the room felt very close. Father went upstairs and 
ctang?d his clothes, and had a hot batb. Mother took 
father's clothes and offered them to a tramp, who said, 
"Thanks, kind lady, they are a bit too high for me.'' 
Mother threw them over the back fence Into the canal. 
Father was summoned afterwards for poisoning the fish. 
Mother went to bed. Father asked her if she had been 
fumigated. Just then father had a note sent him. Father 



came to wish me "Good Night" at 10 o'clock in the evening, 
with a note In one hand and a razor strop in the other. I 
got under the bed. The people next door thought wo were 
beating carpets In the house. I cannot sit down comfortably 
yet. I have given my little sister what 1 had left of that 
Limburger cheese. I thought it a pity to waste it. 

WELSH RAREBIT— A little butter placed in a 
small shallow sautoir; when melted, finely cut 
cheese added to it, seasoned with salt, red pep- 
per, dry mustard and Worcestershire sauce 
as it begins to melt, ale added till it becomes 
of a creamy nature; a hot dish with slices of 
hot toast, the cheese poured over it and served. 

GOLDEN BUCK — Is the preceding with a 
poached egg on top. 

YORKSHIRE RAREBIT— Is a Golden Buck 
with a strip of broiled bacon on each side of 
the egg. 

OLD FASHIONED YORKSHIRE BUCK — A 
slice of bread half inch thick thinly spread with 
mustard, placed in hot oven till brown, moist- 
ened with half a glass of ale, covered with a 
slice of cheese quarter inch thick, two thin 
slices of bacon placed on the cheese, returned 
to oven and cooked till the cheese is melted 
and the bacon done; served very hot. 

COTTAGE CHEESE — A good way to use up 
sour milk; let the milk sour to clotness, boiling 
water then poured to it, stirred, turned into a 
colander, little cold water poured over it, salt 
added and again stirred, then placed into a 
muslin bag and drained dry; served either plain 
or mixed with cream. Sometimes a little cream 
and finely chopped chives are added to it before 
serving, especially for the bar lunch. 

CHEESE SCALLOPS— Individual patty pans 
buttered, then lined with slices of cheese, an 
egg then broke into the center, seasoned with 
pepper, a table-spoonful of milk or cream 
poured over the egg, then dredged with grated 
cheese and slowly baked for twenty minutes, 
turned out and served on dry or fried toast. 

CHEESE STRAWS— One pound of flour, three- 
quarter pound of grated cheese, four raw yolks 
of eggs, seasoned with salt and red pepper, 
made into a paste, rolled out thin, cut into 
strips and baked a straw color. 

CHEESE SAVORIES— Water crackers split, 
and the open side thinly spread with anchovy 
butter; then, with a paste made of two parts 
of roquefort cheese to one part of butter, sea- 
soned with salt, red pepper and a dash of sherry 
wine; served garnished with thin slices of green 
gherkins. 

CHEESE BISCUITS— Half a pound each of 
butter and flour, four raw egg yolks, ten ounces 
of grated Swiss cheese, one table-spoonful of 
dry mustard and a little red pepper, the butter 
beaten to a cream, the eggs and dry ingredients 
then added, made into a stiff dough, rolled out, 
cut in square biscuits, baked twenty minutes 
in a rather slow oven and served. 

CHEESE RAMEQUINS— Half a pound each of 
roquefort and Swiss cheeses, one pound of but- 



44 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ter, sixteen raw yolks of eggs, and the insides 
of four breakfast rolls boiled in cream till soft, 
the whole then made into a paste, and then 
mixed lightly with the beaten whites of sixteen 
eggs; filled into fancy paper cases and baked a 
fine brown; served very hot. 

CHEESE BOMBE— Into a choux paste made of 
three-quarter pound of flour, one-half pound of 
butter and a quart of water, work in one at a 
time twelve raw yolks and eight whites of eggs, 
then three-quarter pound of grated Swiss 
cheese; cooked by frying small spoonfuls in not 
too hot fat; when done, served with Montpelier 
butter. 

CHEESE FLANS— Scalloped circles of puff 
paste, on one half of it is spread a paste made 
of twelve ounces of parmesan cheese, eight 
ounces of butter, eight yolks and four beaten 
whites of eggs, the other half turned on to it, 
edges pinched down, arranged on baking sheet, 
brushed over with egg wash, baked, served 
with watercress. 

CHEESE CASSEROLES— Slices of bread one 
and a half inches thick, trimmed circular, a 
center then cut out with column cutter leaving 
a bottom, dipped in milk, then breaded and 
fried, taken up and the center filled with a 
mixture made of two parts bread crumbs, one 
part grated cheese, and half a part each of 
melted butter and milk; seasoned with salt and 
red pepper, baked quickly till cheese is melted 
and served very hot. 

CHEESE CUSTARD— Grated cheese, beaten 
raw eggs, dry mustard, salt and pepper beaten 
into milk at the rate of three eggs and four 
ounces of cheese to the quart; poured into hot 
buttered scallop dishes and baked; served in 
the dish. 

CHEESE PUDDING— Is the same mixture as 
the preceding, but the scallop dish fitted with 
a slice of buttered toast, and the mixture 
poured over it before baking. 

CHEESE SOUFFLES — Another name for 
"Cheese Ramequins", (which see). 

CHEESE FRITTERS— Half a pound of grated 
Parmesan cheese seasoned with salt and red 
pepper worked into the beaten whites of eight 
eggs; cooked by frying small spoonfuls in hot 
fat, then taken up and rolled into grated cheese 
mixed with finely chopped parsley; served 
very hot. 

POTTED CHEESE— Grated cheese, to every 
pound of which is added four ounces of melted 
butter and a tablespoonful of brandy, with a 
seasoning of dry mustard and red pepper, 
pressed into jars, covered with parchment 
paper and kept for use. This is also called 
"Club cheese" and can be bought in small jars. 

CHEESE CONES— The paste given for "Cheese 
Straws" (which see), cut in squares and baked, 
then a cone of whipped cream mixed with 
grated parmesan cheese forced on top with a 
bag and fancy tube. 



CHEESE OMELET— Beaten eggs with a little 
cream seasoned with salt and red pepper, fried 
in omelet form, but before being rolled dredged 
with grated cheese; served with a dredging of 
cheese on top, melted in the oven. 

CHEESE FINGERS— Strips of puff paste finger 
lengths; with each fold of the paste, grated 
cheese is rolled in, then cut in strips, egg 
washed and baked. 

CHEESE SANDWICHES— Thin slices of but- 
tered bread with a thin slice of cheese between, 
or spread with "Potted Cheese" (which see). 

CHEMISE — A French term used to designate 
potatoes boiled in their skins, which they call 
"pommes de terre, en chemise". 

CHERRIES — California produces our best table 
cherries, while most all of the states produce 
the red and black sour cooking cherries. The 
following clipping from the San Francisco 
Wave will show how an immense crop is 
handled at a California ranch: "Probably 
there is no better known and certainly there 
are few larger ranches in the state of California 
than that owned by the Meek estate. It is sit- 
uated a little way outside the city of Oakland, 
and it covers a huge tract of land between San 
Lorenzo and Haywards. It is spread over 
3,300 acres of some of the finest fruit bearing 
country on the Pacific coast. A thousand 
acres of this extent is in fruit, for the most part 
cherries. The season's cherry picking goes on 
at a great rate, and a little army of pickers toil 
from tree to tree, stripping the branches like a 
swarm of locusts. The sight is picturesque, 
for the pickers come by families and live in the 
cherry orchard in a small village of tents. At 
the height of the season nearly 150 pickers are 
employed. They are of all ages and both sexes, 
as the work is of such a nature that it can be 
performed as well by women as by men; as 
well by a ten year old girl as by a grown man. 
The pickers are boarded at the expense of the 
ranch, and besides receive from 75 cents to $1 
per day, so that a wife and two or three chil- 
dren can make as much during the few weeks 
of the season as the head of the house in an 
entire year. After the picking, the cherries 
are taken over to the packing house and 
handled at once; the riper cherries are sorted 
out and put upon the local markets, while the 
more backward are shipped East. The force 
of packers can dispose of 420 boxes per day. 
Two thousand boxes go to the carload, and 
must be hurried to their destination as speedily 
as possible, for there is no fruit that loses its 
flavor quicker by overkeeping than the cherry. 
For the same reason the boxes must be rapidly 
marketed, for they will not keep many hours 
in the heat of an Eastern summer. There are 
plenty of difficulties in the way of getting the 
California cherry upon the tables of the Eastern 
consumer, but with ordinary care and a fair 
season the prices obtainable are not bad. In 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



45 



Chicago a ten-pound box of California cherries 
can be made to bring a dollar if properly 
handled, while in New York, though the East- 
ern local market comes into competition, the 
same quality will sometimes fetch 12 cents per 
pound. 

CHERRY COMPOTE— Sound, large sweet cher- 
ries scalded for three minutes in a boiling 
syrup made of two pounds of sugar to the quart 
of water, the cherries then removed; the syrup 
flavored with noyeau, and when cold added to 
the cherries; served cold in sauce dishes, or 
hot as a sweet entree with a border of sweet- 
ened rice. 

BRANDIED CHERRIES— Round, large, sweet 
cherries scalded for two or three minutes in a 
boiling syrup composed of one pound of sugar 
to each quart of water, then taken up and laid 
on dishes to cool, afterwards filled into wide 
mouthed bottles. The syrup they were scalded 
in then boiled up again with another pound of 
sugar added to each quart, scum removed as it 
rises; when clear, taken off the stove and al- 
lowed to become cold, then an equal quantity 
of brandy added. The brandied syrup then 
poured over the cherries in the bottles, which 
are hermetically sealed and put away for use. 

BOUCHEES OF CHERRIES— For recipes of 
fruit bouchees see "Bouchees". 

GLAZED CHERRIES WITH WHIPPED 
CREAM— Brandied cherries, the syrup poured 
off and boiled down till thick and grainy, then 
flavored with Kirschenwasser, allowed to be- 
come cold, then poured over the cherries; 
served around a dome of whipped cream forced 
through a bag with fancy tube, (called, CER- 
ISES GLACES, a la CHANTILLY). 

CHERRY JELLY — Five pounds of stoned cherry 
meat, juice of eight lemons, one pound of red 
currant jelly and some bruised cherry kernels 
mixed and brought to the boil in a gallon of 
syrup, simmered and skimmed, removed from 
the fire and four ounces of dissolved gelatine 
added, then strained and restrained through a 
jelly bag till clear, filled into molds or glasses; 
served when set. 

CHERRY PIE— Stoned red sour cherries slight- 
ly flavored with noyeau, mixed with sugar, 
filled into a pie plate lined with pie paste, the 
fruit then sprinkled with carbonate of soda to 
prevent the juice running over, covered with a 
top crust, edges pressed and crimped, brushed 
with egg wash and baked. 

DEEP CHERRY PIE— Sound red or black sour 
cherries mixed with sugar, filled into a deep 
lined pie dish, heaped high in the center, cov- 
ered with top crust, egg washed, and baked. 

CHERRY PUDDING — Molds or bowls lined 
with short-paste, filled with cherry meat mixed 
with sugar, covered with top crust, boiled or 
steamed till done; served with cherry sauce. 

CHERRY ROLY-POLY— Sweet biscuit dough 
rolled out thin, spread with cherry meat mixed 



with sugar, rolled up, ends tucked in, put in 
pans and steamed or baked, or tied in wet 
floured cloths and plunged into boiling water, 
kept boiling till done; serve with cherry sauce. 

CHERRY TARTS— Tart molds lined with puff 
paste, filled with cherry meat mixed with sugar, 
baked, then meringued, browned and served. 

CHERRIES IN CROUSTADES— The crous- 
tades made of sweetened rice croquette mixture, 
the edges decorated; served hot, filled with 
cherry compote. 

CHERRY CHARLOTTE — Small pans lined 
with lady fingers, filled with cherry marmalade, 
covered with fingers, baked and glazed; served 
with cherry sauce. 

CHERRY MARMALADE — Stoned cherries 
with some of their kernels boiled to a pulp with 
a very little water and twelve ounces of sugar 
to each pound of fruit; when smooth and stiff 
poured into crocks for future use. 

CHERRY COBBLER — Shallow baking pans 
lined with short paste, sides and bottom, filled 
with cherry meat mixed with sugar, covered 
with short paste, egg washed and baked; served 
with cherry sauce. 

CHERRY TRIFLE— Pieces of stale sponge cake 
moistened with equal parts of the syrup of 
brandied cherries and sherry wine, smoothed 
down into a dish, then spread with cherry 
marmalade, over which is poured a boiled cus- 
tard flavored with noyeau, the custard decora- 
ted with brandied cherries. 

CHERRY FRITTERS — Thin slices of fresh 
bread spread between with cherry marmalade, 
the sandwich then neatly trimmed, dipped into 
a thin batter and fried, taken up, rolled in 
powdered sugar; served with cherry sauce. 

CHERRY FLAWN— A flawn mold lined with 
puff paste, filled with cherry meat mixed with 
sugar, baked in slack oven till done. 

CHERRY WATER ICE— One pound of stoned 
cherries and half pound of sugar to each quart 
of water, with a dash of lemon juice and a 
flavor of bitter almonds, the stoned cherries, 
bruised kernels and sugar mixed and rubbed 
through a fine sieve into the flavored water; 
then frozen. 

CHERRY SHERBET --The water ice of the 
preceding recipe, but when nearly frozen, 
whipped whites of eggs, two to the quart, are 
added, then frozen till done. 

CHERRY MERINGUE— Sheet of sponge cake 
spread thickly with cherry marmalade, then 
spread fancifully with meringue, dotted with 
brandied cherries, baked a straw color, cut in 
shapes, served with cream or whipped cream. 

CHERVIL — A garden herb with a combined 
flavor of parsley and fennel. 

CHESTNUTS — The large ones obtainable at 
most Italian stores are the best suited for culi- 
nary purposes, the small ones seen at the fruit 
stalls being far too tedious. They should be 
first cut through the shell in the form of a 



4 6 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



cross, so as to strip the shell off easily, then 
placed in a baking pan, put into a slack oven 
till done; or they may be boiled till done, and 
then husked. Some people like to eat boiled 
chestnuts, the water being flavored with ani- 
seed; when husked, made hot again in a little 
melted butter. 

CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT— Chestnuts boiled 
and husked, pounded to a paste with butter, 
mixed with a little grated ham, breadcrumbs, 
minced onion, grated lemon rind, yolks of eggs, 
seasoned with salt and pepper; used to stuff 
poultry and suckling pigs. 

DEVILLED CHESTNUTS — Boiled, peeled, 
fried brown in butter oil, taken up and sprink- 
led with salt and red pepper. 

PUREE OF CHESTNUTS — Boiled, peeled, 
pounded, then rubbed through a fine sieve. 

CHESTNUT SOUP— A thin cream of chicken 
stock thickened with a puree of chestnuts, sea- 
soned and served. 

CHIANTI — A low priced yet good Italian wine 
with a Burgundy flavor. 

CHICORY — A plant, the leaves of which are used 
for salads. The root is ground and used to mix 
with coffee, giving it a sweetish taste and dark 
color. Chicory should be discarded from coffee. 
Eminent physicians claim it has a debilitating 
effect, and a tendency to excite looseness of the 
bowels. Stewards who buy cheap ground coffee 
will invariably find it adulterated with chicory, 
and the chicory adulterated with Venitian red, 
acorns, beans, peas, coffee husks, rye, parsnips, 
damaged wheat, dried coffee grounds, sawdust, 
bark, logwood dust, etc. MORAL: do not 
handle it at all, buy whole coffee and see it 
ground yourselves. 

BROILED CHICKEN— Spring chickens cleaned, 
split, the breast and backbone removed, thigh 
bone snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
brushed with butter, broiled well done; served 
on buttered toast, garnished with lemon and 
watercress, using frills on leg and wing bones. 

FRIED CHICKEN- Spring chickens cleaned, 
split down the back, breast and backbone re- 
moved, thigh bone snapped, rolled in butter, 
then in flour, fried in skillet with a cover on; 
it may also be breaded, or dipped in batter, 
and fried in hot fat; the first way tastes the 
best. 

SMOTHERED CHICKEN — Spring chickens 
split in halves, breast and backbone removed, 
thigh bone snapped, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled in flour, 
arranged in a baking pan with bacon fat, sliced 
vegetables and sweet herbs, moistened with a 
little chicken gravy, another pan put over as a 
lid, baked, basted and turned till done and 
brown, taken up; gravy made in the pan they 
were cooked in, strained, skimmed and served 
with the chickens. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES— Cold roast chicken 



cut into very small dice mixed with minced 
mushrooms, seasoned with lemon juice, salt and 
nutmeg, boiled down thick in Veloute" sauce, 
turned into a shallow buttered pan, smoothed 
with a knife, covered with buttered paper; 
when cold, cut into even sized pieces, formed 
into cone shapes, breaded, fried, served with 
mushroom sauce poured around and garnished 
with croquette frills. 

MINCED CHICKEN CUTLETS, SAUCE BOR- 
DELAISE — The croquette mixture preceding 
with the addition of a seasoning of minced fried 
shallots, thyme and chopped parsley; when 
cold, cut into even sized pieces, shaped like 
small lamb chops, using a piece of macaroni to 
represent the bone; breaded and fried; served 
with Bordelaise sauce poured around, and gar- 
nished with heart shaped croutons dipped in 
tomato sauce and sprinkled with chopped 
parsley. 

FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN— Tender chickens 
cut into joints, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
lemon juice, rolled in flour, lightly fried in 
butter, then put into Veloute sauce and sim- 
mered till tender; Parisienne potatoes steamed, 
then plunged into boiling fat and lightly 
browned; button mushrooms sauteed in butter; 
the sauce the chickens were stewed in finished 
with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Served, 
the chicken with sauce poured over, and sur- 
rounded with alternate potatoes and mushrooms. 
Fricassee of chicken may also be made of 
boiled chickens the same way, or using cold 
boiled ones; the garnish may also be omitted 
or changed to the fancy of the cook. 

CHICKEN PIE— Chickens boiled whole till ten- 
der with an onion and piece of salt pork; when 
done, taken up, the breasts and legs pulled off, 
the back bones thrown into the stock, the legs 
cut in halves, the under breast separated, and 
if the upper breast is large, cut in two, if small 
left whole; the pork cut into dice, the chicken 
then put into baking dishes with the pork, 
sliced hard boiled eggs, raw Parisienne pota- 
toes and some chopped parsley; covered with a 
sauce made from the stock they were boiled in, 
reserving some of it, the pie then covered with 
short paste, egg washed and baked. In serv- 
ing give liberally of the gravy, using the re- 
served sauce to replenish the pie. 

CHICKEN POT PIE— Chickens boiled with salt 
pork and a few vegetables till tender, taken up 
and cut as for chicken pie preceding, put into 
a pan; sauce made of the stock, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and chopped 
parsley, poured over the chickens; spoonfuls 
of dumpling mixture dropped close together all 
over it; baked and served. Or the chicken 
when cut up, may be put into another saucepan, 
covered with the sauce, dumplings put all over 
it, lid put on, and the dumplings cooked by 
thus having the sauce boiled roundthem. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



47 



CHICKEN SAUTE WITH RISSOTO— Young 
chickens fried in joints, of a light color with 
mushrooms, taken up, gravy made in the pan 
they were fried in, strained over the chicken 
in a sautoir, simmered till done, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and a glass of sherry wine. Ris- 
soto made by cutting some ham fat into small 
dice and frying it with minced onion in a sau" 
toir, little curry powder added, then rice, 
moistened with white stock, lid put on and 
simmered till rice is well cooked, adding more 
stock if required. Seived, the chicken in sauce 
in the center of the dish, flanked with small 
domes of rissoto formed by filling small molds 
and turning them out for,each order. 

SMALL CHICKEN PIES, FRENCH STYLE 
— Boiled tender chickens, the stock well re- 
duced till of a full flavor, meat taken from the 
chickens, cut into flakes of an even size; thick 
sauce made of the stock, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley, poured 
to the chicken. Puff paste cut out with large 
circular cutter, egg washed and baked; when 
done the paste split, the lower half covered 
with the chicken meat in sauce, top put on; 
served surrounded with small balls of potatoes 
steamed, then moistened with Maitre D'Hotel 
butter. 

CUTLETS OF CHICKEN WITH VEGE- 
TABLES — Spring chickens should be used' 
boiled not quite done in white stock, then 
allowed to become cold, the breasts and legs 
then taken off, making four cutlets to each 
chicken, leaving the leg and wing bones a little 
long and scraping the same, so that it resem- 
bles a chop bone; seasoned with salt and 
pepper, breaded and fried; served surrounded 
with Julienne vegetables mixed into Hollandaise 
sauce. 

FRIED FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN — Neat 
shaped pieces of cold fricasseed chicken with 
the sauce adhering, rolled in bread crumbs, 
then breaded and fried; served with a white 
Italian sauce poured around. 

STEWED CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES— 
The chickens jointed, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, placed in a sautoir with olive oil, pars- 
ley, some small onions and a clove of garlic, 
lid placed on and fried or simmered in their 
own steam till tender, taken up and gravy made 
in the sautoir they were stewed in; served, the 
chicken with some gravy over it, garnished with 
fried slices of tomatoes sprinkled with parsley 
dust. 

SUPREME OF CHICKEN WITH TOU- 
LOUSE RAGOUT — Breasts of young chickens 
that have been boiled whole, so that their shape 
is retained; skinned and trimmed to a pear 
shape, then sauteed lightly in butter, taken up 
and placed into a Supreme sauce and simmered 
gently for a few minutes; slices of cooked 
smoked tongue trimmed to a pear shape and 
heated with a little butter; served, the chicken 



breast resting on a fancy crouton flanked with 
a slice of the tongue, Supreme sauce poured 
over the chicken, garnished with button mush- 
rooms, turned truffles, cocks-combs and kernels. 

SUPREME OF CHICKEN WITH RICE, 
SAUCE PERIGUEUX— The supreme pre- 
pared as in the preceding; served, a bed of dry 
boiled rice, breast of chicken masked with Su- 
preme sauce on top, flanked with two slices of 
the tongue, and Perigueux sauce poured around. 

STEWED CHICKEN, TURKISH STYLE— 
Young chickens boiled whole with a rack of 
mutton, (the part that is under the shoulder) in 
white stock; when the chicken is not quite done 
it is taken up and drained, placed in a sautoir 
with butter and sliced onions and fried a golden 
color, then taken up and cut into joints, the 
onions removed and washed rice put into the 
sautoir, moistened with the stock the chicken 
and mutton was boiled in, cooked till dry and 
tender, sauce made of the remaining stock sea- 
soned with a little cinnamon; served, a bed of 
the rice, a chop and joint of the chicken rest- 
ing on it, with the sauce poured over and 
around. 

CHICKEN WITH RICE, MALTESE STYLE 
— Young chickens roasted whole not quite 
done, then jointed, then braised for a few min- 
utes with minced onions, garlic, and a few 
cloves, then one part of tomato sauce and two 
parts of white stock is added to the chickens, 
and when boiled up, washed rice is added and 
the whole simmered till the rice is tender; 
served, a bed of rice with joint of chicken on 
top and sauce Trianon poured around. 

ROAST CHICKEN, OYSTER SAUCE— Young 
chickens drawn, singed, washed, wiped dry, 
filled with a stuffing made of blanched and 
chopped oysters, chopped parsley, fresh bread 
crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a dash of 
anchovy essence, trussed, roasted and basted 
till tender; served with some of the stuffing 
underneath and oyster sauce poured around; 
made by blanching the oysters, then cutting 
them into neat pieces, sauteeing them with 
butter and fine herbs; sauce made of the liquor 
from the blanching, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and a dash of anchovy essence, the sauteed 
oysters and herbs then added. 

STEWED CHICKEN, SPANISH STYLE — 
Cold boiled chicken cut into joints, seasoned 
with salt, pepper and mixed ground spices, 
sauteed in olive oil with minced shallots, garlic 
and chopped parsley; when colored, the surplus 
oil poured off, and Espagnole sauce added, 
simmered a few minutes; served with the sauce 
and garnished with slices of hard boiled (hot) 
eggs. 

CHICKEN STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS, 
MADEIRA SAUCE— Chickens drawn, singed 
and washed, then boiled till tender in white 
stock, taken up, cooled, stuffed with chestnut 
forcemeat, trussed, roasted quickly, being bast- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ed with butter and flour, served with a rich 
Madeira sauce poured around. 

CHICKEN WITH CHESTNUT PUREE AND 
VEGETABLES— Cold roast chickens cut into 
joints and trimmed, bone removed and its place 
filled with a stiff pur£e of chestnuts moistened 
with a little cream, together with the grated 
rind of a lemon, the stuffed joints then dipped 
in limpid aspic jelly and allowed to set, then 
decorated with a piping of Ravigote butter; 
served, a cold dish covered with crisp lettuce 
leaves, at the ends a triangular shape of mace- 
doine of vegetables mixed with salad cream, 
the chicken joints resting on the salad, and 
tartar sauce in the center. 

ROAST CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS 
AND BREAD SAUCE— Young chickens drawn, 
singed, washed, trussed with slices of bacon 
tied over the breast, roasted and basted, and 
when nearly done the bacon removed and the 
breast browned; served with bread sauce at 
one end of the dish, sauteed mushrooms in 
sauce as a border, also a garnish of fresh crisp 
watercress. 

CHICKENS, MARYLAND STYLE — Spring 
chickens singed, split down the back, the breast 
bone and back bone removed, left in halves for 
restaurant, and the leg and breast separated 
for hotel orders, making four portions of each 
chicken; seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped 
in beaten eggs, then fresh bread crumbs, ar- 
ranged in baking pan with slices of bacon, 
brushed with melted butter, roasted and basted 
with the bacon fat till done; served, the chick- 
en resting on a corn fritter, flanked with two 
slices of the bacon, and a ladle of Bechamel 
sauce poured around. 

BOILED CHICKEN WITH SALT PORK, 
PARSLEY SAUCE— Small chickens about two 
pounds each in weight, singed, drawn, washed 
and put to boil with a piece of salt pork, an 
onion stuck with cloves, carrot and celery; 
when tender, taken up, the breasts and legs 
carefully removed, backbone and trimmings 
thrown back into the stock, the joints kept hot 
in white stock, the sauce made of the liquor 
they were boiled in; served, a breast or leg 
and under breast flanked with a slice of the 
pork, and the sauce poured around. 

FRIED CHICKEN IN BATTER, TOMATO 
SAUCE — Spring chickens blanched whole, 
then separated (not cut) into four joints, steeped 
for an hour in a mixture of chopped parsley, 
salt, pepper, minced shallots, lemon juice and 
olive oil, then taken up and wiped, dipped into 
a batter, fried in hot fat; served with tomato 
sauce poured around. 

HARICOT OF CHICKEN WITH VEGE- 
TABLES — Chickens singed, drawn and washed, 
then boiled whole with carrots, turnips and 
onions; when nearly done taken up and cut 
into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, 



rolled in flour, fried a golden brown with butter, 
placed into a sautoir, brown sauce made of the 
stock they were boiled in, strained over the 
fried chicken, simmered till tender, the cooked 
vegetables cut into large dice, mixed with 
cooked green peas, moistened with gravy and 
kept hot in it; served, the chicken in sauce sur- 
rounded with the vegetables. 

BRAISED CHICKEN WITH MACARONI— 
Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and wiped, 
then steamed for an hour, taken up, cut into 
joints, placed in a sautoir with vegetables and 
spices, moistened with Madeira sauce, lid put 
on, sautoir placed in hot oven and the chicken 
braised till tender, then taken up into another 
sautoir and the braise strained over them; 
macaroni in inch lengths boiled in stock with 
an onion; when done, drained, sprinkled with 
Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley; served, 
the chicken in sauce surrounded with the mac- 
aroni. 

BROILED CHICKEN, HUNTER'S STYLE— 
Spring chickens singed, split down the back, 
backbone and breastbone removed, steeped for 
an hour in a mixture of olive oil, minced onions, 
chopped parsley, salt, pepper and lemon juice, 
taken up, rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, broiled 
well done; served with sauce Chasseur poured 
around, and garnished with lemon and parsley. 

EPIGRAMME OF CHICKEN, TOMATO 
SAUCE — Young chickens singed, drawn, 
washed and wiped, blanched, taken up and 
separated into four joints, the breast and under 
breast seasoned with salt and pepper, then 
breaded, arranged in a buttered sautoir, roasted 
and basted till tender and brown, the legs 
boned, then filled with chicken forcemeat, 
braised and glazed; served, a fancy crouton in 
center of dish with a glazed leg and browned 
breast resting on either side, and a rich tomato 
sauce poured around. 

BLANCHED CHICKEN WITH VELOUTE 
SAUCE — Young white fleshed chickens singed, 
drawn, washed, trussed with a piece of butter 
size of an egg mixed with the juice of a lemon 
and a seasoning of salt and pepper in the inside 
of each; arranged in a sautoir with slices of. 
lemon and fat bacon, moistened with a little 
white stock, lid put on, steamed in this way till 
tender; served, masked with Veloute sauce, 
and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

MATELOTE OF CHICKEN— Young chickens 
singed, drawn, washed, simmered for half an 
hour in white stock, taken up, jointed, put into 
Veloute sauce with a glass of white wine, sim- 
mered till tender, then is added small white 
onions, balls of carrot and turnip (some use 
parsnip) each of which has been boiled in con- 
somme with a pincn of sugar; served, the 
chicken in sauce, garnished with vegetables. 

CHICKEN SAUTE WITH MUSHROOMS— 
Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, cut 
into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



49 



fried in oil with herbs and garlic, when brown, 
taken up and placed into a sautoir, button 
mushrooms then fried in the oil, taken up and 
put with the chickens, surplus oil then poured 
off, flour added to the pan, stirred, moistened 
with chicken stock and Madeira wine, boiled 
up, skimmed, strained over the chickens, which 
are then simmered till tender; served garnished 
with the mushrooms (called, CHICKEN a la 
MARENGO). 

CHICKEN STUFFED AND STEWED, SAUCE 
MILANAISE — Young chickens singed, drawn, 
washed, filled with a stuffing made of grated 
lean ham, chopped hard boiled eggs, fresh 
bread crumbs, chopped parsley, minced shal- 
lots, juice of a lemon, and a seasoning of thyme, 
trussed, arranged in a sautoir, covered with 
white stock, lid placed on, simmered and basted 
till tender; served in joints with some of the 
stuffing underneath, and Milanaise sauce poured 
around. 

FRIED CHICKEN WITH CUCUMBER 
PUREE — Spring chickens singed, split down 
the back, separated into four joints, backbone 
and breastbone removed, blanched in white 
stock for a few minutes, then taken up and 
coated with thick cucumber sauce, rolled in 
breadcrumbs, then breaded, fried; served sur- 
rounded with a puree of cucumbers. 

STEWED CHICKEN WITH DUMPLINGS— 
Young chickens singed, drawn, washed and 
jointed, arranged in saucepan with carrot, 
onion, celery and turnip, moistened with white 
stock, simmered till tender, taken up, sauce 
made of the stock, the vegetables rubbed 
through a sieve into the finished sauce, dump- 
lings steamed; served, the chicken in center of 
dish, dumpling at each end, sauce poured over 
the whole, sprinkled with parsley dust. 

FRIED CHICKEN, INDIAN STYLE — Spring 
chickens blanched whole, then jointed, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and rubbed with curry 
powder, fried brown in butter; served with a 
garnish of stewed onions. 

BRAISED FILLETS OF CHICKEN, HAN- 
OVER SAUCE — Old fowls singed, drawn, 
washed, steamed for an hour, then cut into 
fillets, arranged in a sautoir with spices and 
vegetables, moistened with consomme, braised 
till tender and the consomme has reduced to 
half glaze, fillets taken up into another sautoir, 
the braise strained into an Hanover sauce and 
poured over the chicken; served with it and 
garnished with fancy croutons. 

CHICKEN CURRIED, WITH RICE — Young 
chickens singed, drawn, washed, boiled for an 
hour in white stock, taken up, drained, cut into 
joints, seasoned with salt, rolled in flour, fried 
brown in butter with sliced onions and a clove 
of garlic, chicken then taken up and placed in- 
to a sautoir, sprinkled with curry powder and 
flour, shook together, moistened with the 
strained stock they were boiled in, simmered 



till tender, with the addition of a grated green 
apple and the juice of a lemon; served in the 
center of a border of dry boiled rice. 

BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN WITH TRUF- 
FLES — Young white chickens singed, drawn, 
washed, arranged in a sautoir with slices of fat 
bacon and some lemon juice, moistened with 
white stock, lid put on and simmered till tender, 
taken up and cut into joints, placed into another 
sautoir, bacon and grease removed, Bechamel 
sauce then poured in, boiled up, skimmed, 
strained over the chickens; served with it, 
sprinkled with minced truffle peelings. 

SPITCHCOCKED CHICKEN, CRAPAUDINE 
SAUCE — Spring chickens singed, split, washed, 
backbone and breastbone removed, trussed out 
like a frog, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in olive oil, broiled well done; served on 
toast with crapaudine sauce poured around, 
garnished with parsley and lemon. 

STEWED CHICKEN WITH RICE — Young 
chickens singed, split, jointed, fried with olive 
oil in a sautoir; when brown, surplus oil poured 
off, minced green peppers and onions with a 
clove of garlic (crushed) then added and fried a 
little more, lightly sprinkled with flour, shook 
together, moistened with consomme, lid placed 
on and simmered till tender and glazy, then is 
added some slices of pimentoes and chutney 
with a glass of Madeira wine, boiled up; served 
within a border of dry boiled rice that has been 
very slightly flavored and colored with curry. 

STEWED CHICKEN, MEXICAN STYLE— 
Young chickens singed, split, jointed, fried 
with olive oil in a sautoir till brown, taken up 
in another sautoir, ham and garlic then fried 
in the oil of a light color, surplus oil poured off 
the onions, etc., then moistened with equal 
parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces, seasoned 
with thyme, sage, marjoram and sweet pepper, 
simmered for half an hour, skimmed, strained 
over the chickens which are then simmered till 
tender; raw tomatoes peeled and the seeds re- 
moved, cut into pieces and stewed down thick 
with chili sauce; served, the chicken in sauce 
with fancy croutons at ends of dish, garnished 
at the sides with the tomato and chili mixture. 

BRAISED CHICKENS WITH GREEN PEP- 
PERS — Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
filled with a stuffing made by boiling yellow 
corn meal with chicken stock to mush; when 
done, mixed with fresh grated breadcrumbs, 
parmesan cheese, butter, salt and pepper, 
trussed with slices of bacon tied over the breast, 
arranged in a sautoir with onions, carrot, pars- 
ley, bay leaves, cloves and a crushed clove of 
garlic, moistened with consomme, braised till 
tender and glazy, taken up, braise strained 
and skimmed, then added to some Espagnole 
sauce containing green peppers sliced, and a 
seasoning of curry powder; served, the chick- 
ens in portions with stuffing underneath, sauce 
poured over, garnished with the peppers. 



5° 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BOILED CHICKEN WITH VEGETABLES, 
ALLEMANDE SAUCE — Old fowls singed, 
drawn, washed and trussed, put into saucepan 
with carrot, celery and onions, covered with 
salted water, lid put on, saucepan then placed 
in hot oven, chickens simmered till tender 
(about three hours), taken up, Allemande sauce 
made from the remaining stock; small balls of 
carrot simmered in consomme till tender, a can 
each of lima beans and flageolets opened and 
washed, then mixed with the carrot balls, sea- 
soned with salt, sugar and red pepper; served, 
the chicken in joints with sauce poured over, 
and garnished with the mixed vegetables drained 
out of the consomme. 

BOILED LARDED CHICKEN WITH MAC- 
ARONI— Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, 
the breasts larded, trussed, arranged in sauce- 
pan with carrot, onions and celery, covered 
with salted water, lid put on, simmered in hot 
oven till tender; a rich yellow sauce made from 
the reduced liquor, macaroni broken in inch 
lengths and boiled in salted water till done, 
taken up, drained, seasoned with paprika, par- 
mesan cheese and a little of the sauce for the 
chickens; served, the birds in joints with the 
sauce poured over and sprinkled with parsley 
dust, garnished with the macaroni. 

STEWED CHICKENS WITH ESTRAGON— 
Old fowls singed, drawn, jointed, washed, put 
into a sautoir with some fat from the top of the 
stock pot, a few veal trimmings, a bunch of 
tarragon and some sherry wine, covered with 
white stock, lid put on and simmered in a hot 
oven till tender, then taken up into another 
sautoir, the remaining stock strained, skimmed, 
and added to a rich Poulette sauce containing 
chopped tarragon leaves; served, the chicken 
covered with the sauce and garnished with 
slices of hard boiled (hot) eggs. 

BRAISED CHICKENS WITH VEGETABLES 
— Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, the breasts 
larded, trussed, arranged in saucepan with 
some bacon trimmings, spices and vegetables, 
moistened with white stock and Madeira sauce 
in equal parts, lid put on, simmered in hot 
oven till tender, taken up, the braise strained 
and skimmed, then poured over the chickens; 
cans of macedoines opened and washed, then 
kept hot in consomme; served, the chickens in 
joints with the sauce over, garnished with the 
vegetables drained from the consomme. 
BRAISED CHICKENS WITH MUSHROOMS 
— Old fowls prepared, bacon tied over the 
breast, arranged in a sautoir with vegetables 
and spices, moistened with consomme, lid put 
on, then braised till tender and glazy, taken up, 
braise skimmed, 1 strained and added to button 
mushrooms that have been sauteed with butter 
and then mixed into Bechamel sauce; served, 
the glazed pieces of chicken resting on neat 
shaped pieces of toast surrounded with the 
mushrooms in sauce. 



CHAUDFROID OF CHICKEN— Spring chick- 
ens a pound and a half each in weight, singed, 
drawn, washed, trussed, wrapped in buttered 
paper, roasted without browning, taken up and 
allowed to cool in the paper, then separated 
into four joints, neatly trimmed; equal parts of 
aspic jelly and Poulette sauce made warm 
enough to mix, then stirred surrounded with 
broken ice till thick, the chicken then dipped 
into it, then arranged on a baking sheet to set; 
when set, decorate them with slices of truffles; 
the remaining sauce filled into timbale molds 
that have been lined with aspic jelly and set; 
served, the chicken joint resting on a crouton 
of aspic jelly, with the timbale turned out 01 
the end of the chicken, the other end garnished 
with watercress. 

CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN WITH 
STRING BEANS— Cold cooked chicken three- 
fifths; lean cooked ham and fresh grated bread 
crumbs each one-fifth; the meats cut into very 
small squares, mixed with the crumbs together 
with some chopped chervil, capers and a sea- 
soning of tarragon vinegar, salt and red pepper; 
moistened with stock and beaten raw eggs; 
filled into buttered molds within half an inch 
of the top, lids put on and steamed for an hour; 
allow them to slightly cool before turning out; 
served, in slices surrounded with French string 
beans (haricots verts) taken from the cans; 
washed, then heated in Veloute sauce. 

DEVILLED CHICKEN LEGS WITH BACON 
— Skinned tender chicken legs, scored, laid for 
an hour in a mixture of olive oil, Worcester- 
shire sauce, lemon juice, red pepper and an- 
chovy essence, then taken up and slowly 
broiled; served resting on a crouton, garnished 
with strips of bacon, and some sauce Diable. 

CHICKEN FORCEMEAT — White meat of 
cooked chicken three parts; white bread soaked 
in chicken stock, then squeezed dry, one part; 
pounded together to a paste with two ounces of 
Dutter to each pound of meat, seasoned with 
salt pepper, nutmeg and a little lemon juice, 
then rubbed through a fine sieve and mixed to 
a stiff consistency with egg yolks and cold 
Veloute sauce. 

CHICKEN FORCEMEAT BALLS CURRIED. 
WITH RICE— Balls of the preceding force- 
meat poached in a good curry sauce; served 
with it, being arranged on the serving dish 
alternately with small molds of dry boiled rice. 

FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH ASPARAGUS 
POINTS — Spring chickens one and a half 
pounds each in weight, singed, drawn, washed, 
boiled just done, taken up, cooled, skinned, 
separated into four joints neatly trimmed, re- 
heated in a rich Villeroi sauce; served masked 
with it, garnished with asparagus points sea- 
soned with butter. 

CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH GREEN PEAS 
Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
steamed not quite done, taken up, cooled, skin- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



5i 



ned, separated into four joints, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in cooling Vil- 
leroi sauce, then in bread crumbs, then breaded 
and arranged in a buttered baking pan, roasted 
and basted till brown and frothy; served sur- 
rounded with green peas moistened with con- 
somme and butter. 

SCALLOPED CHICKEN— Cold cooked chicken 
meat cut into thin slices, moistened with Alle- 
mande sauce, filled into scallop shells or oval 
deep dishes, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs 
mixed with Parmesan cheese, salt, red pepper 
and nutmeg, then with melted butter, arranged 
on a baking sheet, heated and browned; served 
in the shell or dish, garnished with watercress. 

CHICKEN KROMESKIES, SAUCE PERI- 
GUEUX — Cooked chicken and tongue, button 
mushrooms and truffles all cut into very small 
squares and boiled down thick in a rich Veloute 
sauce, a liaison of egg yolks and cream added 
just at the finish, then turned into a buttered 
shallow pan, smoothed with a palette knife, 
covered with buttered paper and allowed to 
become cold, then cut into even sized pieces, 
formed to the shape of long corks, wrapped 
round with a thin slice of cold boiled bacon or 
udder, pinned with a toothpick, dipped into 
batter and fried, toothpick then removed; 
served with Perigueux sauce. 

SALPICON OF CHICKEN WITH POTATOES 
— Cooked chicken, tongue, mushrooms and 
truffles cut into small squares and made hot in 
a rich Poulette sauce; served, the serving dish 
bordered with mashed potatoes forced from a 
bag and fancy tube, sprinkled with parsley 
dust, the salpicon in the center. 

CHICKEN PATTIES, SAUCE SUPREME— 
The preceding salpicon, but cut smaller, filled 
into patty shells; served with Supreme sauce 
poured around. 

STEWED CHICKEN, GERMAN STYLE — 
Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and trussed, 
arranged in a saucepan with grated green ap- 
ples and onions, covered with stock, simmered 
in hot oven till tender, Allemande sauce made 
from the reduced liquor, noodles boiled in 
stock till tender, taken up and drained, then 
mixed with some of the sauce; served, the 
chicken masked with sauce, surrounded with 
noodles. 

CHICKEN QUENELLE FORCEMEAT- Raw 
skinless chicken meat with a little beef suet 
minced, pounded together to a paste, rubbed 
through a fine sieve with some bread that has 
been soaked in milk and squeezed dry, seasoned 
with finely chopped parsley, grated lemon rind, 
salt, red pepper and nutmeg, worked to a stiff 
consistency with raw egg yolks beaten with a 
little cream. 

CHICKEN QUENELLES WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS — The forcemeat preceding made into 
balls or shaped like eggs between two dessert 



spoons; poached in white stock till they float, 
taken up and rolled in fried sifted bread crumbs; 
served surrounded with button mushrooms in 
Veloute sauce. 

RISSOLES OF CHICKEN— The salpicon as 
given for "Kromeskies" when cold, cut out 
with a circular cutter, two sheets of puff paste 
rolled out thin, the chicken placed over one 
sheet, covered with the other, stamped out with 
a fancy edged cutter, arianged on a baking 
sheet, brushed over with egg wash and baked. 

SAUTE OF CHICKEN WITH BOUCHEES— 
Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, then 
steamed for five minutes, then separated into 
four joints neatly trimmed, scraping the little 
meat off the wing and leg shanks to form 
handles; seasoned with salt, pepper and pow- 
dered thyme, fried brown with butter, then put 
into Madeira sauce and simmered till tender; 
served, resting against a crouton with frills on 
the shanks, sauce poured over the meat, gar- 
nished with very small patties filled with 
salpicon. 

VOL-AU-VENT OF CHICKEN WITH QUE- 
NELLES — Large patty shells with separate 
covers filled with a salpicon of chicken, cover 
then placed on, served with Madeira sauce 
poured under, and garnished with small 
poached chicken quenelles. 

ROAST BONED CHICKEN— Large old fowls 
and young hens singed, skin laid open down 
the back and all bones removed, the old ones 
then laid out flat skin side down, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, al- 
ternate strips of larding pork and red cooked 
tongue then placed lengthwise down the center, 
then covered with forcemeat, the young hen 
without skin laid on top of it so that the white 
meat covers the dark meat of the fowl, outer 
skin of the fowl then drawn together and sewn 
close, leaving no apertures; again sewn up into 
a cloth, steamed for an hour, cloth then re- 
moved, roasted and basted till well done and 
tender, taken up, pressed; when cold, string 
removed, glazed; served cold in slices with 
salad. 

BOILED BONED CHICKEN — Same as the 
preceding, but instead of steaming, it is sim- 
mered till tender in white stock containing 
vegetables; when done, taken up, pressed in 
the cloth; when cold, cloth and string removed, 
all adhering grease removed with a hot cloth, it 
is then glazed; served cold in slices with salad. 

GALANTINE OF CHICKEN— Galantine molds 
placed in a pan of broken ice, salt and water, 
limpid aspic jelly poured in to coat the sides, 
which is then decorated with peas, strips of 
tongue, stamped slices of truffle and whites of 
hard boiled eggs, etc., the decorations then 
coated with more limpid jelly and allowed to 
set, the interior then filled with slices of boned 
chicken and limpid jelly till full, (always see 



52 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



that the slices of chicken are placed on edge, 
NOT LAID FLAT! so that when it is turned 
out, the slices may be removed with the jelly 
adhering merely by the use of a fork). When 
set, the mold is slightly warmed with a hot 
cloth, then turned out, the dish garnished with 
croutons of aspic jelly, cress, crisp shred let- 
tuce, fancy slices of pickled beet, or variations 
at the cook's fancy. 

FRIED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH CORN 
FRITTERS— Spring chickens singed, drawn, 
washed and simmered barely done, taken up, 
cooled, skinned, breasts removed, seasoned 
with salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, 
rolled in melted butter, then in flour, then in 
beaten eggs and fried in hot fat, taken up and 
drained; served with sauce Supreme poured 
under, and garnished with small corn fritters 
and watercress. 

BREAST OF CHICKEN STEAMED, SAUCE 
SUPREME — Spring chickens singed, drawn, 
washed, trussed and steamed till done, taken 
up, breasts removed and skinned, then put into 
Supreme sauce and served with it, garnished 
with kidney beans (flageolets). 

BROILED CHICKEN LEGS WITH GREEN 
PEAS— The steamed legs of the preceding re- 
cipe, skinned, then laid for an hour in a mix- 
ture of olive oil, lemon juice, red pepper, salt 
and Worcestershire sauce, then broiled slowly 
to a golden color; served with a frill on the 
shank, resting on a slice of buttered toast, gar- 
nished with French peas made hot in tomato 
sauce. 

FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH ARTI- 
CHOKE BOTTOMS— Spring chickens singed, 
split down the back, breastbone and backbone 
removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in flour, then in beaten eggs and fried in hot 
fat till done; artichoke bottoms spread with 
chicken forcemeat arranged in a sautoir, moist- 
ened with a very little consomme, reduced and 
glazed, the chicken served with a little Colbert 
sauce, and garnished with the bottoms. 

FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH HOMINY 
FRITTERS — The chickens prepared and fried 
as in the preceding; fine hominy boiled down 
to mush, cooled, cut in shapes, then breaded 
and fried, the chicken served with cream sauce 
and a strip of broiled bacon, garnished with 
the fritters. 

FRIED CHICKEN WITH RICE AND OKRAS 
— Cold joints of cooked chicken dipped in thick 
cold tomato sauce, then in bread crumbs, then 
breaded and arranged in a buttered baking pan, 
roasted and basted with butter till brown and 
frothy; rice boiled dry, then mixed with boiled 
fresh or canned okras and a little tomato sauce, 
the chicken served with a little tomato sauce, 
and garnished with small mounds of the rice 
and okras turned out of a timbale mold. 

DEVILLED SPRING CHICKEN WITH 
GREEN PEAS — Spring chickens singed, split 



down the back, breastbone and backbone re" 
moved, thigh bone snapped, seasoned, laid for 
an hour in Worcestershire sauce, olive oil, 
tarragon vinegar, chopped chives and chervil, 
taken up, rolled in flour, then in melted butter 
and slowly broiled well done; served with 
Diable sauce, and garnished with French peas 
that have been washed, drained and sauteed in 
butter. 

FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH CARDINAL 
SAUCE — Spring chickens singed, split, breast- 
bone and backbone removed, thigh bone snap- 
ped, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in 
flour and fried a golden brown with butter; 
served with Cardinal sauce poured under and 
around, garnished with slices of truffles that 
have been stewed in sherry wine. 

STUFFED BREAST OF CHICKEN, PERI- 
GUEUX SAUCE — Breasts of young chickens 
split open and filled with quenelle forcemeat, 
arranged in a sautoir with slices of salt pork, 
white stock and butter, simmered till tender; 
served resting on fancy croutons with perigueux 
sauce. 

STEWED CHICKEN, SAUCE RAVIGOTE— 
Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, jointed, then 
arranged in a sautoir with nutmeg, lemon, 
celery and sliced onions, moistened with white 
stock, lid put on, simmered in hot oven till 
tender. Chives, parsley, shallots, chervil and 
tarragon shred and blanched, onion rings 
steamed till tender; served, the chicken with 
ravigote sauce poured around, garnished with 
rings of onions filled with the blanched herbs. 

STEWED CHICKEN, SAUCE PROVENCALE 
— Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in flour, sauteed in olive oil with minced shal- 
lots and garlic, taken up into another sautoir 
with sliced tomatoes, moistened with claret 
wine and Espagnole sauce, simmered till ten- 
der, finished with lemon juice ?nd chopped 
parsley; served with the sauce and tomatoes. 

SPRING CHICKEN IN BATTER WITH 
FRIED ONIONS — Spring chickens singed, 
split, backbone and breastbone removed, thigh 
bone snapped, blanched in white stock a few 
minutes, taken up and drained, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, 
then dipped in batter and slowly fried in hot 
fat; rings of onions steamed for a few minutes, 
then dipped in milk, then flour, fined crisp in 
hot fat; served as a garnish to the chicken. 

STUFFED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH 
CUCUMBERS — Breasts of spring chickens 
that have been steamed whole not quite done, 
trimmed, spread with chicken forcemeat, then 
dipped in beaten eggs, then sprinkled with 
grated lean cooked ham, minced truffle peelings 
and breadcrumbs, arranged in a baking pan, 
moistened with a little melted butter, slowly 
heated and browned; served garnished with a 
puree of cucumbers. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



53 



CHICKEN SAUSAGES, SAUCE HOLLAN- 
DAISE — Raw chicken meat without skin three- 
fifths, cooked chicken meat one-fifth, cooked 
tongue and mushrooms mixed one-fifth, all 
minced together, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg and powdered thyme, formed into sau- 
sage shapes, lightly breaded, arranged in bak- 
ing pan with bacon trimmings and butter, 
slowly roasted and basted till done; served 
with Hollandaise sauce. 
SOUFFLES OF CHICKEN— Breasts of raw 
chicken pounded to a paste, then rubbed 
through a fine sieve and mixed with separately 
beaten whites and yolks of eggs, seasoned with 
butter, cream, salt, red pepper, nutmeg and 
lemon juice, filled into fancy paper cases, the 
top sprinkled with sifted bread crumbs and 
melted butter, slowly baked, the served imme- 
diately. 
CHICKEN QUENELLES WITH TRUFFLES, 
SAUCE SUPREME -Chicken quenelle force- 
meat shaped like eggs between two spoons, 
poached in seasoned white stock, taken up and 
drained, then dipped in Supreme sauce; served 
with it, arranged on serving dish in fours, two 
of them sprinkled with minced truffle peelings. 
CANNELON OF CHICKEN, TARTAR SAUCE 
— Cannelon case made of puff paste (see Can- 
nelons) filled with chicken forcemeat, slowly 
heated through; served with tartar sauce, gar- 
nished with watercress. 
CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FRIED, TOMATO 
SAUCE — Chicken forcemeat rolled with pointed 
ends size of a finger, resembling a cigar in 
shape, breaded, fried; served with tomato 
sauce. 
SAUTE OF CHICKEN WITH RICE AND 
LEEKS — -Young chickens singed, drawn, 
washed, jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
then lightly sauteed with minced onions and 
ham in butter, taken up into a sautoir, sauce 
made in the pan they were fried in, strained 
over the chickens, simmered till tender, rice 
boiled dry; then mixed with some of the sauce; 
served as a border to the chicken, which is 
further garnished with fried shredded leeks. 
CHICKEN SAUTE WITH POTATO BALLS 
— Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
steamed for five minutes, then taken up and 
separated into four neat joints, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, fried with butter to a golden 
color; balls scooped out of raw potatoes steamed 
nearly done, then fried in butter like the chick- 
ens, both of which are then sprinkled with fine 
parsley; served, the joints dipped in hot Col- 
bert sauce surrounded with the potatoes. 
CROUSTADES OF CHICKEN— Fancy crous- 
tades made of paste filled with a salpicon of 
chicken; garnished with watercress. 
CHICKEN HASH WITH PEPPERS ON 
TOAST — Cold cooked chicken without skin 
cut into very small squares, green peppers 



WITH EGGS ON 

chicken without skin 

paste, then rubbed 



shred and blanched, both mixed and simmered 
in a rich Veloute sauce; served on toast. 
MINCED CHICKEN WITH POACHED EGG 
— Cold cooked chicken without skin cut into 
very small squares, mixed into and heated with 
Bechamel sauce; served on toast with a trim- 
med poached egg on top, the yolk sprinkled 
with parsley dust. 
CHICKEN HASH WITH STUFFED PEP- 
PERS — Small green peppers split, cleaned and 
blanched, filled with chicken forcemeat, ar- 
ranged in a sautoir, moistened with a little 
consomme, lid put on and simmered till done; 
the minced chicken on toast of the preceding 
recipe served garnished with the stuffed 
peppers. 
CHICKEN FRITTERS, PIQUANTE SAUCE 
— Cold roast tender chicken in joints, laid for 
an hour in vinegar with chopped chives, taken 
up, breaded and fried; served with Piquante 
sauce. 
CHICKEN PANADA 
TOAST— Cold cooked 
minced and pounded to 
through a fine sieve, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and nutmeg, mixed with an equal quantity of 
fresh bread crumbs, moistened with cream, 
made hot; served heaped high on toast with a 
trimmed poached egg on top. 
POTTED CHICKEN FOR SANDWICHES— 
Two parts of cold cooked chicken meat without 
skin, one part cooked ham, one part butter, the 
meat minced and pounded to a paste with the 
butter, then rubbed through a fine sieve, sea- 
soned with mace, salt, red pepper and nutmeg, 
packed into small jars, sealed with melted but- 
ter, and stored away in ice box for use. 
TIMBALES OF CHICKEN WITH FORCE- 
MEAT BALLS— Timbale molds lined with a 
quenelle forcemeat, then filled with scallops of 
braised chicken and slices of mushrooms and 
truffles, the bottom then covered with force- 
meat, molds arranged in a baking pan contain- 
ing a little water, baked till set; served turned 
out with sauce Bressoise poured around, and 
garnished with small balls of poached force- 
meat. 
CHICKEN SAUTE WITH OYSTERS— Large 
oysters blanched and drained; young chickens 
singed, drawn, blanched, jointed, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried in butter, 
taken up into a sautoir, gravy made in the pan 
they were fried in, using stock and the strained 
oyster liquor, boiled up and skimmed, then 
strained over the chicken, which is now sim- 
mered till tender; the oysters sprinkled with 
parsley and sauteed in butter for each order; 
served, the chicken in joints garnished with the 
oysters sautees. 
CAPILOTADE OF CHICKEN — Cold roast 
chickens cut into neatly trimmed joints, ar- 
ranged in a sautoir, covered with a brown 



54 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Italian sauce, simmered in it for fifteen minutes 
then served garnished with fancy croutons. 

COLLOPS OF CHICKEN WITH MACAR- 
ONI— Cold cooked chicken without skin cut 
into thin slices about the size of a quarter of a 
dollar, made hot in a rich Bechamel sauce; 
macaroni broken into inch lengths, boiled in 
boiling salted water, taken up and drained, 
then mixed with Parmesan cheese and a little 
Bechamel sauce; served, the macaroni as a 
border sprinkled with parsley dust, the chicken 
piled high in the center, garnished with strips 
of cooked red tongue. 

HASHED CHICKEN AND HAM WITH RICE 
— Chicken cut the same as in the preceding 
recipe, thin slices of lean cooked ham cut out 
with a column cutter, both mixed and made 
hot in Veloute sauce. Rice washed and then 
boiled in chicken broth till moisture is all gone 
and the grains soft, then mixed with a liaison 
of egg yolks and Veloute sauce, seasoned with 
red pepper and nutmeg; served, the rice as a 
border, the ham and chicken in sauce piled 
high in the center. 

GIBLET AND POTATO PIE— Gizzards, hearts, 
livers, necks and second joints of the wings of 
chickens stewed tender with pieces of salt pork, 
then put in a baking pan with slices of hard 
boiled eggs, chopped parsley and a glass of 
sherry wine, (having plenty of sauce) the pie 
then covered three-quarters of an inch thick 
with mashed potatoes, edges crimped, washed 
over with beaten egg and baked. 

GIBLET PIE — Pie pans lined on the sides with 
thin short paste, filled with the stewed giblets 
of the preceding recipe, covered with short 
paste, egg washed and baked. 

GIBLET POT PIE— The preceding stewed gib. 
lets either kept hot in the sautoir and dump- 
lings dropped over it, lid put on and simmered 
till dumplings are done; or the stew turned into 
a baking pan, the dumplings dropped close 
together all over it, then put in oven till dump- 
lings are done. 

STEWED CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH RICE 
— Hearts, gizzards, livers, necks and second 
joints of the wings of chickens, also small 
pieces of raw salt pork and minced onions, all 
fried lightly with butter, then sprinkled with 
flour, shook together, moistened with stock t 
simmered till tender, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and a bunch of sweet herbs (which are to be 
removed when done); served in the center of a 
border of dry boiled rice, or barley, or oatmeal. 

SAUTE OF CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST 
— The livers with gall removed, washed and 
wiped, then sauteed with minced onions in 
butter, taken up into a sautoir, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and lemon juice, moistened with 
Madeira wine and Espagnole sauce, simmered 
for a few minutes; served on toast garnished 
with croutons. 



.STEWED CHICKEN LIVERS WITH MUSH- 
ROOMS — The preceding stew placed in the 
center of dish without toast, and served sur- 
rounded with button mushrooms that have been 
sauteed in butter and sprinkled with chopped 
chervil. 

CHICKEN LIVERS IN CASES— The livers 
sautees above cut in dice, filled into fancy 
paper cases, that have been lined with chicken 
forcemeat and heated; mushrooms and truffles 
in dice to be added to the livers. 

CHICKEN LIVER FORCE M E AT — Equal 
weight of blanched chicken livers and lean 
cooked ham with two ounces of butter to each 
pound of meat, the meat minced, pounded to a 
paste, rubbed through a fine sieve, then thor- 
oughly incorporated with the butter, together 
with a little puree of mushrooms and truffles, 
seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chop- 
ped parsley, then stored for use. 

BROCHETTE OR CROUSTADES OF CHICK- 
EN LIVERS— For recipes of which see "BRO- 
CHETTE" and "CROUSTADE". 

OMELET OF CHICKEN LIVERS— The livers 
blanched then cut in slices with mushrooms, 
sauteed in butter, moistened with wine and 
brown sauce, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
lemon juice, sprinkled with chopped parsley, 
enclosed within a savory omelet; served with 
more of the livers in sauce poured around. 

ROAST CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST— 
Blanched chicken livers masked all over with 
"chicken liver forcemeat" then wrapped in 
buttered paper, arranged in a baking pan and 
baked for fifteen minutes, taken up, paper re- 
moved; served on toast with Madeira sauce 
poured around. 

RAGOUT OF CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH 
POTATO CROQUETTES — Livers, hearts, 
gizzards, pieces of salt pork and button mush- 
rooms sauteed, then mixed with Madeira sauce, 
placed in center of dish garnished with small 
potato croquettes. 

GIBLET SAUCE — Gizzards, hearts and necks 
boiled till tender with an onion, livers blanched, 
then sauteed with butter, taken up, sauce made 
in the pan they were sauteed in with the stock 
from the giblets; livers, hearts and meat from 
the gizzards then cut fine and mixed into the 
sauce, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
finished with sherry wine and chopped parsley. 

CHICKEN GIBLET SOUP— Gizzards, hearts, 
necks and wings boiled till tender with some 
roast fowl bones in chicken stock, hearts and 
gizzards then taken up and cut into dice to- 
gether with some sauteed livers, roux made and 
moistened with the stock, boiled up and skim- 
med; washed rice, finely cut carrots, turnips, 
and onions then boiled in the soup till tender, 
then is added the cut meats; finished by sea- 
soning with Worcestershire sauce, sherry wine, 
salt, pepper and nutmeg. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



55 



PUREE OF CHICKEN— Roux made and moist- 
ened with chicken stock, cream and almond 
milk, when boiling, further thickened with some 
cooked chicken meat that has been pounded 
and rubbed through a fine sieve, seasoned with 
salt, nutmeg and red pepper; small squares of 
cooked breast of chicken then added; served 
with small croutons. 

CHICKEN SOUP WITH VEGETABLES — 
Cold roast fowl bones and gravy with some 
vegetable trimmings boiled in stock till well 
flavored, roux made and moistened with the 
strained stock, boiled up and skimmed, shred- 
ded cooked vegetables and shreds of chicken 
then added and served. 

CHICKEN CONSOMME — A few veal bones 
and chopped veal trimmings, slices of carrot, 
onions, celery, with whole mace, salt, red 
pepper, broken egg shells and beaten whites of 
eggs, stirred together with a little broken clean 
ice, then moistened with skimmed and strained 
poultry stock that has had a piece of salt pork 
boiled in it, brought slowly to the boil, then 
simmered till clear, strained through a towel; 
small squares of breast of cooked chicken then 
added, seasoned (but use no wine) and served. 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH RICE— The strained 
and skimmed stock in which fowls and a piece 
of salt pork and some vegetables have been 
boiled, is slightly thickened with corn starch, 
dry boiled rice, and pieces of chicken meat 
then added, seasoned and served. 

CHICKEN GUMBO — Roast chicken bones, 
minced onion and some ham knuckle meat fried 
in butter with a few bay leaves and a pod of 
red pepper, flour then added, moistened with 
poultry stock, boiled up and skimmed, a half 
roasted chicken then added and simmered till 
tender; chicken then taken up and the stock 
strained into another saucepan in which is 
either canned okra, okra powder, or fresh okra 
sliced, also some boiled rice and pieces of 
chicken meat; boiled up till greeny and gela- 
tinous; seasoned and served. 

CREAM OF CHICKEN— Some veal bones and 
trimmings with a little whole mace, celery and 
onions are boiled in poultry stock, cold cooked 
chicken meat pounded, then rubbed through a 
sieve, moistened with the skimmed and strained 
stock, boiled up, seasoned with salt, red pepper 
and nutmeg, then finished with some boiling 
cream. 

CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH RICE— Roux 
made and moistened with strong poultry stock, 
boiled up and skimmed, little boiling cream 
then added together with pieces of chicken 
meat and dry boiled rice; seasoned with salt 
and red pepper. 

CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH QUENELLES 
— Roux made and moistened with poultry 
stock, boiled up and skimmed, then is worked 
into it a liaison of egg yolks and cream; sea- 



soned with salt and red pepper, then strained 
into another saucepan, containing flowerets of 
cooked cauliflower balls of cooked carrot, 
pieces of chicken meat, and some poached 
quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of them to 
be colored green. 

PUREE OF CHICKEN WITH TOMATOED 
QUENELLES — ■ A puree of chicken soup 
strained into another saucepan containing 
poached quenelles that have had a stiff tomato 
puree worked into the forcemeat; seasoned and 
served. 

CHICKEN SOUP WITH RICE AND LEEKS 
— Poultry stock slightly thickened with roux, 
plenty of shredded leeks boiled in it with some 
rice; when done and seasoned, pieces of chicken 
meat added. (The Scotch call this soup 
"COCK-A-LEEKIE"). 

CHICKEN SOUP, CREOLE STYLE — Raw 
chicken meat cut into small pieces and fried 
with minced onions in olive oil, then little flour 
added, stirred, moistened with consomme, 
boiled up and skimmed, then is added shred 
lean ham and green peppers, simmered for half 
an hour, then raw peeled and sliced tomatoes 
together with well washed rice and a bunch of 
soup herbs is simmered in it till done. 

CHICKEN SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE— 
Raw chicken meat cut small together with 
minced onions fried in butter, flour added and 
stirred, moistened with poultry stock, boiled 
up and skimmed, then is added a Julienne of 
vegetables and a little well washed rice, sim- 
mered till done, seasoned and served. 

CHICKEN SOUP, SOUTHERN STYLE— Raw 
chicken meat cut small, minced onions, shred- 
ded green peppers all fried together with butter, 
little flour then added and stirred, moistened 
with poultry stock, seasoned lightly with curry 
powder, salt and red pepper, boiled up and 
skimmed, then is added equal quantities of lima 
beans and sugar corn together with half their 
bulk of okras; simmered till done. 

CHICKEN SOUP, TURKISH STYLE— Shred- 
ded raw chicken meat, ham and green peppers 
with sliced onions fried together with butter, 
little flour added and stirred, moistened with 
consomme, boiled up and skimmed, seasoned 
with st.'t, red pepper and a dash of curry pow- 
der, then is added washed rice and tomato 
puree equaling half the bulk of the stock; when 
rice is done, served. 

CHICKEN SOUP, ENGLISH STYLE — Roux 
made, moistened with poultry stock, boiled up 
and skimmed, then is added a liaison of egg 
yolks and cream, when thickened, strained into 
a tureen containing squares of cooked chicken 
meat and chopped chervil, seasoned and served. 

CHICKEN BROTH WITH CUSTARDS — 
Good poultry stock seasoned, then lightly thick- 
ened with corn starch, strained into a tureen 
containing a macedoine of vegetables and shapes 



56 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



of custard made by taking twelve yolks of eggs 
and a pint of cold chicken broth seasoned with 
salt and red pepper, thoroughly mixed without 
beating, then poured into buttered pans, 
steamed till set, cut into shapes when cold. 
CHICKEN BROTH WITH ASPARAGUS 
TIPS— Same as the preceding, using the shapes 
of custards but substituting asparagus tips for 
the macedoine of vegetables. 
CHICKEN BROTH WITH SPRING VEGE- 
TABLES— Strong poultry stock thickened very 
lightly with corn starch, seasoned, boiled up 
and skimmed, then further thickened with 
young tender carrots, turnips, green onions, 
leeks and green cabbage all cut into small dice- 
boiled in the stock with a handful of rice til 1 
done, then is added squares of chicken meat; 
seasoned and served. 
CHICKEN BROTH WITH ARTICHOKES— 
Strong poultry stock thickened lightly with corn 
starch, seasoned, boiled up and skimmed, then 
further thickened with a liaison of egg yolks 
and cream, strained into a tureen with chicken 
meat and diced artichokes. 
CHICKEN BROTH WITH POACHED EGG— 
Same as "Chicken Broth with Custards" but 
substituting a soft poached egg for each plate. 
CHICKEN BROTH WITH SORREL- Strong 
poultry stock thickened with a liaison of egg 
yolks and cream, seasoned, strained into a 
tureen containing boiled vermicelli and stewed 
sorrel. 
CHICKEN SOUP WITH NOODLES — Strong 
poultry stock thickened with flour and butter, 
seasoned with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, 
straining it afterwards into a tureen containing 
boiled noodles, chopped chervil and pieces of 
chicken meat. 
CHICKEN BROTH WITH ONIONS — Thick- 
ened poultry stock seasoned, then strained into 
a tureen containing very small boiled onions 
and green peas. 
CHICKEN SOUP WITH PEAS PUREE — 
Fresh green peas boiled with a bunch of green 
mint in chicken stock, thickened lightly with 
roux, mint then removed, and the soup rubbed 
through a fine sieve, boiled up again and skim- 
med, seasoned, then strained into a tureen con- 
taining chopped chervil and shred lettuce. 
CHICKEN SALAD— Tender, juicy cold cooked 
chicken cut into small dice, with an equal quan- 
tity of hearts of celery, mixed, seasoned with 
salt, red pepper, mayonnaise and a dash of 
tarragon vinegar; a cold serving dish rubbed 
with garlic, covered with crisp, tender, lettuce 
leaves, salad placed in the center masked with 
mayonnaise, smoothed, decorated with capers, 
beetroot and hard boiled egg. 
CHICKEN SALAD— Round croquettes made of 
chicken, ham, tongue, mushrooms and truffles, 
breaded and fried, allowed to become cold, 
then split in halves and set around a bed of 



mixed shredded lettuce and endive, seasoned 
with French dressing. 
CHICKEN SALAD— Two parts of mayonnaise 
and one part of limpid aspic jelly beaten to- 
gether, individual patty pans or timbale molds 
decorated and lined with the beaten mixture, 
then filled with scallops of chicken dressed with 
Remoulade sauce, a few capers and slices of 
stoned olives, covered with some of the beaten 
mixture, set till firm, then turned out on to a 
bed of shredded lettuce garnished with shred- 
ded anchovies and gherkins. 
CHICKEN MAYONNAISE— Cold roast chickens 
cut into joints, steeped for an hour in a mixture 
of salt, pepper, olive oil and tarragon vinegar, 
then taken up and masked with mayonnaise 
sauce, served on shred lettuce, garnished with 
quartered hard boiled eggs, pickled beets and 
stoned olives or pimentoes. 
CHICKEN MAYONNAISE — Boned roasted 
chicken, pressed, sliced, coated with mayon- 
naise, served garnished with green peas and 
asparagus points that are dressed with French 
dressing, and cubes of savory jelly. 
CHIFFONADE — French term for a mixture of 
shredded sorrel, lettuce, chervil and parsley 
that is used to put in soups a few minutes be- 
fore serving them. 
CHIPOLATA — Name of an Italian garnish com- 
posed of little veal sausages, glazed balls of 
carrot and turnip, roasted and peeled chestnuts, 
pieces of broiled bacon and button mushrooms, 
all mixed into a rich brown sauce flavored with 
sherry wine. 
CHIVES — A flavoring herb of the onion species, 
grows like the tops of spring onions, deep green 
in color and very strong in flavor; such dishes 
as "Civet of Rabbit", "Ragout of Hare", etc., 
are strongly impregnated with chives. 
CHOCOLATE — A wholesome, nutritive flesh 
forming article of food, greatly used in confec- 
tionery, icings, cakes, etc.; when served as a 
drink it is made into a paste with milk, then 
boiling milk added to the consistency of thin 
cream, allowed to simmer for a few minutes 
before serving. 
CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE — Milk and 
sugar brought to the boil in two separate sauce- 
pans, then corn starch mixed with milk beaten 
into both, one to be flavored with vanilla, the 
other to have melted chocolate and a little 
butter beaten into it, molds dipped into cold 
water, the chocolate mixture poured in half 
way up, then the vanilla used to fill with, set 
to cool, turned out, served with sweetened and 
vanilla flavored cream. 
CHOCOLATE CREAM FRITTERS— The choc- 
olate part of the preceding recipe made a little 
stiffer than for blanc-mange, turned into shal- 
low pans, allowed to set till firm and cold, then 
cut into shapes, double breaded and fried, 
served dusted with powdered sugar and with 
apricot marmalade or sauce poured around. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



57 



CHOCOLATE CAKE— One pound each of but- 
ter, powdered sugar and grated chocolate, 
sugar and butter creamed together, chocolate 
dissolved in a pint of milk, then worked into 
the cream with eight yolks of eggs, three-quart- 
ers of a pound of flour and two teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder and the whipped whites of eight 
eggs then lightly stirred in, poured into but- 
tered and papered pans, slowly baked till done, 
about one hour. 
CHOCOLATE CREAM— Three pints of double 
cream whipped stiff, to which is then added 
sugar to taste, one ounce of gelatine, juice of a 
lemon, and half a pound of melted chocolate, 
poured into molds, and set on ice; the tops of 
molds may be decorated before pouring in the 
cream. 
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM — Pure cream 
sugared to taste, half a pound of chocolate to 
the gallon, the chocolate dissolved and mixed 
into some LUKEWARM cream, then strained 
into the sweetened cream, flavored slightly with 
vanilla, strained into a freezer and frozen. 
CHOCOLATE CUP CUSTARDS— Two quarts 
of milk, four ounces of chocolate and one pound 
of sugar mixed and brought to the boil, six 
yolks of eggs and two ounces of corn starch 
worked together with a little milk, the boiling 
mixture stirred into it, put back on the range 
and stirred till it just thickens, then flavored 
with vanilla, poured through a conical strainer 
into cups; when all filled, the cups arranged 
into a baking pan containing a little water 
baked slowly till done, served cold with cream 
poured around. 
CHOCOLATE ICING — One pound of sifted 
sugar (powdered) and six whites of eggs thor- 
oughly beaten till stiff, then flavored with van- 
illa and four ounces of melted chocolate. 
CHOCOLATE PUDDING — Same mixture as 
given for "Chocolate Cup Custards" baked in 
a pan, served cold with whipped cream, or 
sweetened and flavored plain cream. 
CHOCOLATE PUDDING— One pound each of 
butter and sugar creamed together, ten egges 
worked into the cream one at a time, fourteen 
ounces of sifted flour and two ounces of grated 
chocolate then lightly stirred in, flavored with 
vanilla, poured into buttered molds, steamed 
till done, served hot with sauce. 
CHOCOLATE FLOAT— Small cold "Chocolate 
Cup Custards" turned out into deep sauce dish, 
surrounded with a piping of whipped cream 
the cream then decorated with colored win, 
jelly chopped fine. 
CHOUX-PASTE— Is the name of a batter made 
of a pint of water, eight ounces of lard or but- 
ter, nine ounces of flour and ten eggs. Water 
and lard is brought to the boil, flour then 
added all at once and worked over the fire till 
it is cooked into a smooth paste, allowed then 
to slightly cool, the eggs then beaten in one at 
a time; its consistency must be so that it will 



just fall off from a spoon; from it is prepared 
"Bell Fritters", "Queen Fritters", "Cream 
Puffs and Eclairs", "Spanish Puffs", "Pra- 
lines", "Croquenbouchecs", "Choux Croutons", 
etc., etc. 

CHOW CHOW— One gallon each of cut string- 
less beans, very small white onions, green 
gherkins and flowerets of cauliflower, two 
pounds of dry mustard, two gallons of white 
wine vinegar, two ounces each of turmeric and 
mustard seed, two pounds of sugar and one pint 
of olive oil. The cauliflower, beans and onions 
boiled separately till tender, the gherkins 
soaked in strong salted water for one day, then 
mixed together and filled into crocks; the vine- 
gar brought to the boil, mustard and turmeric 
mixed and moistened with a little vinegar, then 
stirred into the boiling vinegar; when it begins 
to thicken, the mustard seed, sugar and oil are 
stirred in, poured boiling hot over the vege- 
tables in the crocks, then put away for use. 

CHUTNEY — A table condiment imported from 
the East Indies, and purchasable at the grocery 
stores in bottles, may be made as follows: One 
and a half pints of vinegar, two ounces of whole 
ginger bruised, one ounce each of chilies and 
mustard seed, two ounces of salt and twelve 
ounces of sugar all boiled together for three 
quarters of an hour, then strained through a 
hair sieve. Put the strained vinegar to boil 
again with one large onion shredded, one 
crushed clove of garlic, six shallots, two ounces 
of seedless raisins and two pounds of peeled 
and sliced apples, boil until they are quite soft, 
then put into stone jars, tie over with skin or 
parchment paper and keep for use. 

CIDER — Apple juice obtained by pressure, then 
fermented and matured. 

CINNAMON — A spice which may be purchased 
ground or in stick form, used as a flavoring for 
cakes, puddings, liqueurs, cordials, syrups, 
sauces, etc. 

CISCO — One of the small fish of the lakes, re- 
sembling in size and appearance the fresh water 
herring. 

FILLETS OF CISCO IN BATTER— The fish 
scaled and filleted free from bone, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, dipped into a thin batter, 
fried; served with or without tomato sauce and 
garnished with parsley and lemon. 

BROILED CISCO, LEMON PARSLEY 
SAUCE — -The fish scaled, drawn, washed, 
wiped and the sides scored, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, rolled in olive oil, then in flour, 
broiled and baited till done; served with maitre 
d'hotel butter poured over, and garnished with 
lemon and chip potatoes. 

CISCO SAUTE, JULIENNE POTATOES— 
Prepared as in the preceding recipe, rolled in 
flour, slowly fried a delicate brown with butter, 
served with some of the butter over it, gar- 
nished with Julienne potatoes, lemon and 
parsley. 



58 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CITRIC ACID— A crystal obtained from acid 
fruits; used by confectioners and caterers, pop 
and soda water manufacturers. Street vendors 
at the fairs simply dissolve it in water, sweeten 
it, fill it into glasses, place a thin slice of lemon 
in and sell it for lemonade; also flavor it with a 
little oil of raspberry, strawberry, etc., adding 
a drop or two of carmine, and sell it as rasp- 
berryade, strawberryade, etc. 

CITRON — A large fruit of the lemon species, 
the peel is blanched, then boiled in syrup and 
subsequently dried; used in cakes, puddings, 
ices, jellies, cordials, liqueurs, etc. 

CITRON CAKE— One pound each of butter and 
sugar creamed together, ten eggs then worked 
in one at a time, then a wine glass of brandy, 
one pound of sifted flour, and half a pound of 
shredded citron. 

CLAMS — A favorite American shellfish, the 
"Little Neck" clam being the favored kind for 
eating from the shell, the large hard clams for 
soups and chowders, and the soft clam for 
broiling and frying. 

CLAM CHOWDER— Salt pork cut into dice and 
fried till light brown. Fish broth and clam 
liquor in equal parts brought to the boil, skim- 
med, sliced onions and potatoes then put in and 
boiled till barely done, then is added the fried 
salt pork and scalded clams cut in dice; sea- 
soned with pepper, ground mace and salt; 
brought to the boil again, and poured to an 
equal quantity of thin white sauce; finished 
with a few rolled crackers and chopped parsley. 

PHILADELPHIA CLAM CHOWDER — Like 
the preceding but substituting tomatoes and 
tomato sauce for the white sauce and adding a 
flavor of thyme. 

CLAM BROTH- May be made to order at rest- 
aurants by simply chopping some large clams 
and scalding them in clam liquor, then straining 
into the serving bowl or cup. 

CLAM STEW — Plain or with milk or cream; 
generally sold in restaurants by the half or 
dozen (it is customary to give seven and four- 
teen to the half or dozen); scald the clams with 
clam liquor, take off the scum, pour into a 
bowl, add a piece of butter and serve, if for 
plain; if for a milk or cream stew, scald the 
milk or cream separately, pour the clams and 
liquor into the bowl first, then add an equal 
quantity of the milk, season with butter and 
serve with crackers. 

ROAST CLAMS— May be either served in the 
shell or on toast. Large clams washed, ar- 
ranged on baking sheet, put in hot oven till 
they open. If served in the shell the top shell 
is removed, the clam separated from the lower, 
little melted butter then placed in each and 
served. If to be served on toast, the toast 
should be cut in strips, buttered, the clams 
placed neatly on it, melted butter brushed over 
them; served with lemon and crackers. 



BROILED CLAMS— The soft clam is best for 
this dish, but the ordinary large clam is ser- 
viceable; they should be drained, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter 
then rolled in fresh sifted bread crumbs, broiled; 
served on toast, garnished with lemon and 
watercress. 

FRIED CLAMS — Drained, seasoned, dipped in 
melted butter, rolled in sifted bread crumbs, 
then in beaten eggs and again in crumbs; fried 
in clear butter or in hot fat; served garnished 
with lemon and watercress. 

STEAMED CLAMS — Large clams scrubbed, 
arranged on the wire false bottom of a fish 
kettle with a little water under them, lid then 
put on, placed over a quick fire; when the 
upper shell is loosened, it is removed, the clam 
separated from the lower, little melted butter 
put in each, served very hot with lemon and 
crackers. 

CLAM FRITTERS— Soft clams seasoned, then 
dipped in batter and fried; or large clams 
chopped, then mixed in batter and fried by 
spoonfuls in hot fat; served with a cream sauce 
made with clam liquor. 

SCALLOPED CLAMS— Clams scalded and cut 
into neat pieces, sauce made of their liquor, 
the clams mixed in, and either filled into large 
clam or scallop shells, the tops sprinkled with 
sifted crumbs and melted butter, then browned 
in the oven; served in the shell. 

CLAM CROQUETTES— Scalded clams cut into 
small neat pieces (not chopped). Thick sauce 
made of the liquor, the cut clams put back 
into it; when thoroughly reheated, poured into 
a buttered shallow pan, smoothed with a knife, 
covered with a sheet of greased paper and 
allowed to become cold and set, then cut in 
even sized pieces, shaped, breaded, fried; 
servsd with a clam sauce poured around. 

CLAM FORCEMEAT —Scalded clams finely 
minced with an equal quantity of canned mush- 
rooms, a little minced onion fried in butter, 
flour added, moistened with the clam and 
mushroom liquor, boiled up, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, little dry mustard, a suspicion of garlic, 
and some chopped parsley; then is added the 
clams and mushrooms, boiled up slowly for ten 
minutes, remove and work in a few beaten egg 
yolks till of a stiff consistency, put away to cool 
for use. 

FRICASSEE OF CLAMS— The clams scalded 
in their own liquor, then strained, equal amount 
of milk and liquor boiled separately, flour and 
butter in a saucepan seasoned with red pepper 
and a little nutmeg moistened with the liquor, 
then finished to the desired consistency with 
the boiling milk; when boiled up, finished with 
a few beaten yolks of eggs, the clams cut either 
in halves if small, or in neat pieces if large, 
added to the sauce; served either on toast, or 
with a border of fancy mashed potatoes, or in 
scallop shells. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



59 



CLAM SOUP— CREAM OF CLAMS— Same as 
the preceding recipe, but having the soup of 
the consistency of thin cream; when serving, a 
sprinkling of chopped parsley or celery leaves 
put into each plate. 

BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE SOUP 
OR FRICASSEE BOIL AFTER THE EGGS 
ARE IN OR IT WILL CURDLE, AND YOU 
CANNOT BRING IT BACK TO SMOOTH- 
NESS WITHOUT YOU SPOIL THE FLAVOR. 
CLARET — Name of a Southern French wine so 
called abroad on account of its coior which is 
distinctive. Used generally as a common din- 
ner wine, although its best brands cannot be 
too well eulogised. Its use in cookery is largely 
for flavoring sauces, soups, braising meats and 
fish, and for ices and jellies. 
CLOVES — Name of a valuable spice obtained 
from the buds of the tree. Used in its whole 
form for seasoning many stews, sauces, soups, 
especially turtle soup, where it takes the place 
of the herb BASIL. It is a valuable addition 
to apple dumplings, pies and sauces; in its 
ground state is often adulterated with pimentos 
and other inferior spices. The word clove is 
also used to designate a clove or section of 
garlic. 
COBBLER — Name used in cookery to designate 
a kind of pie used as a sweet entree; also in 
the bartenders' guide to designate certain 
mixed drinks. 

COCOA — Name of a bean obtained from the 
cocoa tree, from which is manufactured the 
cocoa of commerce; used in cookery as a 
breakfast and supper beverage; also the ex- 
pressed oil of the nut is used as cocoa butter, 
chiefly by confectioners. 

COCOANUT--As generally seen in this country 
is in shell form devoid of its fibrous husk. The 
shell when broken shows the enclosed nut; 
this is used in cookery (after having its dark 
skin removed) chiefly by confectioners in mak- 
ing cakes, puddings, ices, macaroons, etc.; can 
be purchased for such work in dessicated form. 
The milk of the cocoanut as the liquid is 
called, is a valuable flavoring for curries, mulli- 
gatawney soup, almond soup, etc. 

COCOTTE — Name used in cookery to designate 
a way of cooking eggs. The cocotte cups have 
been recently placed on the market; they are 
in cup form without handles and with screw 
covers; the cups when to be used are slightly 
buttered, the eggs broken in (keeping the yolks 
whole) a spoonful of cream poured carefully 
over them, the lid screwed on, the cups then 
placed into boiling water or into a steamer; 
they require two minutes longer than is re- 
quired for boiled eggs; they are sent to the 
table in the cup and the lid is simply loosened, 
so as to be removed by the guest at his or her 
pleasure, or by the waiter at the request of the 



guest. The foreign term for this method of 
cooking eggs is (OEUFS A LA COCOTTE). 

COCHINEAL — Name of an insect obtained 
chiefly from the shores of PHONOECIA; used 
in cookery as a red coloring. For recipe see 
"Carmine". 

COCHON— A terra used sometimes on bills of 
fare to designate PIG, such as ' 'pied de cochon" 
pigs feet; "cochon de lait" suckling pig, etc. 

COCKIE-LEEKIE— Name given by the Scotch 
people for a soup in which a cock fowl and 
leeks form the principal ingredients. 

COCKIE-LEEKIE SOUP— Young fowls (cocks 
or hens) washed, trussed and lightly roasted, 
then put into a white stock of veal or chicken 
with some white parts of shredded leeks, salt, 
and a few whole peppers; when the fowls are 
nearly done, they are taken up, the meat picked 
into shreds and placed into another saucepan 
with an equal quantity of fresh shredded leeks, 
the stock the fowls were boiled in being then 
strained over; this is then brought to the boil, 
skimmed, then simmered till the leeks are 
tender (about half an hour), seasoned with salt 
and pepper, then served. 

COCKS-COMBS— Called by the French "Cretes 
de coq" are the crests of the male domestic 
fowl cut off and blanched; used in cookery as 
parts of certain garnitures; are of no value as 
a flavor, but are valuable as pleasing the eye 
while the sauce tickles the palate; may be pur- 
chased at the large groceries already for use 
in bottles, generally mixed with the cocks ker- 
nels (Spanish fries). 

COCKS KERNELS— The testicles of the male 
domestic fowl, situated in the middle of the 
back of the bird; when to be cooked, they are 
washed, blanched, skinned, and made into 
fricassees, supremes, breaded and fried, com- 
ponent parts of garnitures, etc. Often called 
by gourmets, "Spanish fries"; purchasable in 
bottles combined generally with cocks-combs. 
COCKLES— Name of an English shellfish similar 
in shape and flavor to the "little neck clam" 
are imported into this country in small flat 
cans (cooked). To be used they are taken from 
the can and thoroughly washed in cold water 
to rid them of a sandy sediment, they can then 
be frizzled in butter and served very hot on 
toast garnished with lemon and parsley, or 
mixed into cream, Hollandaise, Supreme or 
Normande sauces and served either on toast or 
in croflstades, paper cases, with rice, or border 
of shrimps, or they may be curried and served 
with a border of rice. They are practically 
new to the American public, and unless well 
washed from their sediment will not be much 
called for. 

COCKTAILS — Name of a mixed drink; also ap- 
plied in cookery to oysters and clams. 



6o 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



OYSTER COCKTAIL— Half a dozen freshly 
opened small oysters dropped into a sherbet 
glass, seasoned with a dash each of tabasco, 
Worcestershire, tomato and Harvey sauces. 

CLAM COCKTAIL— Same as the preceding, 
using clams for oysters and omitting the Har- 
vey sauce on account of its saline flavor. 

NEPTUNE COCKTAIL— Three each freshly 
opened small oysters and clams dropped into a 
sherbet glass, seasoned with a few shreds of 
fresh horseradish, a dash each of tomato and 
walnut catsups, and a dash each of Worcester- 
shire and tabasco sauces. 

CODFISH— A staple salt water fish fit for hotel 
use all the year round; caught on the New 
England coast and in vast numbers off the 
shores of Newfoundland. The Newfoundland 
fisheries make a specialty of salting, drying 
and smoking it, besides making "caviar" of 
its roe and extracting the oil from its liver. 

BAKED CODFISH, CAPER SAUCE— On ac- 
count of its size the fish after cleansing is best 
cut into portion pieces, seasoned with sa't and 
pepper, rolled in flour, then dipped into melted 
bacon fat or olive oil, arranged on a baking 
pan, baked and browned on both sides, the 
head boiled with an onion and grated carrot; 
butter sauce made from the liquor, into which 
is then added capers and caper vinegar; fish 
served garnished with lemon and parsley, with 
the sauce at one end of the fish. 

BAKED CODFISH STUFFED WITH OY- 
STERS — Small cod about six pounds each, 
heads and fins removed, inside filled with an 
oyster stuffing, sewn up, the back and sides 
scored into portions, arranged in pan with a 
few shredded vegetables, moistened with a little 
fish broth, brushed over with butter, baked and 
basted till done and glazy; served garnished 
with a potato croquette and oyster sauce poured 
around. 

BAKED CODFISH, BREADCR UMBED — 
Slices of the fish free from bones, laid for an 
hour in a mixture of olive oil, vinegar, salt and 
pepper, then taken up and drained, dipped in 
butter, breadcrumbs, beaten eggs and again 
breadcrumbs, arranged in baking pan, moist- 
ened with a little white wine and oyster liquor, 
baked a golden brown; served garnished with 
Duchesse potatoes and lemon, with Hollandaise 
sauce poured around. 

BOILED CODFISH, EGG SAUCE— The fish 
cut into portion pieces, washed, then laid 
in salted water for an hour, taken up and 
put to boil in cold salted water and milk; 
as soon as the flesh is firm it is done, 
take up, drain, serve garnished with boiled 
small potatoes and egg sauce poured around. 
Other good sauces to serve with boiled 
cod are oyster, Bechamel and Holland- 
aise. 



BOILED COD STEAK WITH ANCHOVIES 
— Sells well in restaurants. Cod steaks about 
three-quarters of a pound in weight, laid in 
salted water for an hour, then boiled in salted 
water and milk, taken up and drained well; 
served garnished with Hollandaise potatoes, 
butter sauce containing plenty of shredded 
salt anchovies poured over the steak. (Flem- 
ish and Aurora sauces also go well with a 
boiled cod steak.) 

FRIED COD STEAK, TOMATO SAUCE— 
The steaks laid in salted water for an hour, 
then taken up and wiped dry; dipped in melted 
butter, then flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a 
golden color in oil; served garnished with Juli- 
enne potatoes and tomato sauce poured around. 

COD STEAK BREADCRUMBED, PARSLEY 
SAUCE— The steaks laid in salted water for an 
hour, then taken up and wiped dry, sprinkled 
with a little lemon juice, dipped in beaten 
eggs and fresh breadcrumbs, arranged in a 
buttered pan, brushed over with melted butter 
or bacon fat, baked and turned so that both 
sides are brown; served with parsley sauce at 
end of dish, and garnished with Parisienne 
potatoes 

FRIED COD CUTLET, PIQUANTE SAUCE 
— Steaks cut from the middle of the fish, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in 
melted butter, rolled in flour, fried in pan with 
bacon fat, served with Piquante sauce at one 
end, Saratoga chips, lemon and parsley at the 
other. 

BROILED COD STEAK, COLBERT SAUCE 
— The steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, 
dipped in melted butter, rolled in flour, slowly 
broiled till done; served with Colbert sauce 
poured around and garnished with lemon and 
parsley, also some fancy fried potatoes. 

CURRIED COD STEAK WITH RISSOTO— 
Good way to use the tail steaks: cut them half 
an inch thick, fry them a golden brown with a 
little minced onion, then place them in a sauce- 
pan, flour and curry then added to the butter 
and onions they were fried with, stirred, moist- 
ened with equal parts of fish broth and cream, 
boil up, skim, add a little anchovy essence, 
strain the sauce over the steaks, put on range 
and simmer for a few minutes; serve with the 
sauce over and garnish with small molds of 
rissoto. 

CREAMED FRESH COD ON TOAST— 
Shoulders and tails of cod are often bought up 
cheap; boil them with an onion in salted water 
and milk, when cool, remove all skin and bones, 
keeping the flakes whole; cream sauce made 
from the liquor they were boiled in, finished 
with a few beaten eggs, the fish flakes then re- 
heated but not boiled; served on toast sprinkled 
with chopped parsley, and garnished with strips 
of toast. 



SCALLOPED FRESH CODFISH— The pre- 
ceding recipe filled into scallop shells or oval 
deep dishes, the top sprinkled with mixed grated 
cheese and sifted breadcrumbs, then with 
melted butter, baked a delicate brown and 
served. 

CRIMPED COD, SHRIMP SAUCE— To crimp 
a cod it must be fresh caught, then instantly 
killed, cut and notched with a knife, then 
boiled in salt water and milk; served with 
shrimp sauce poured around and garnished 
with quartered hard boiled eggs, and small 
potatoes sprinkled with Maitre d' Hotel butter. 

COD STEAK SAUTE, CLUB STYLE— Steaks 
cut from the middle of the fish, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled 
in flour, fried a pale color in clear melted but- 
ter, taken up and drained, placed on serving 
dish, the outer edge of the top garnished with 
fine parsley dust forming a horse shoe, lobster 
coral placed down the centre, and trianon 
sauce poured around. 

BOILED CODFISH TONGUES, EGG SAUCE 
— The tongues steeped for a whole day, then 
blanched for ten minutes, taken up, masked 
with egg sauce ; served on toast. 

SCALLOPED FRESH CODFISH TONGUES 
— The steeped tongues blanched for ten minutes, 
a thick Poulette sauce made from the blanching 
stock, tongues then mixed into it, filled into 
scallop shells or deep oval dishes, the top 
strewn with mixed chopped parsley, grated 
cheese and bread crumbs, browned and served. 

FRICASSEE OF COD'S SOUNDS WITH 
OYSTERS— The sounds blanched till nearly 
done in salted milk and water, taken up and 
drained, the oyster then blanched in the strained 
stock ; cut the sounds after blanching to the 
size of the oysters ; Poulette sauce made from 
the blanching stock, to which is then added the 
fish ; served on toast with a dusting of finely 
chopped parsley. 

STUFFED COD'S SOUNDS, OYSTER SAUCE 
— The sounds blanched and allowed to cool, 
then spread with an oyster forcemeat (see 
oysters) ; when spread, coiled around and 
pinned with a small skewer, rolled in flour, 
then in melted butter and then in sifted bread- 
crumbs, arranged in a buttered baking pan, 
roasted and basted with butter till brown and 
frothy ; served very hot with oyster sauce. 

BOILED COD'S ROES, BUTTER SAUCE— 
The roes blanched and skinned, then simmered 
till done in hot water with a dash of vinegar ; 
served with a good butter sauce containing a 
little anchovy essence and chopped parsley. 

BROILED COD'S ROES, BUTTER SAUCE— 
The roes blanched and skinned, then rolled in 
flour and fried in butter ; served with the sauce 
of the preceding recipe with an addition of 
chopped capers. 

FRIED COD'S ROES, CAPER SAUCE— The 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 6l 

roes blanched and skinned, then rolled in flour 
and fried in butter ; served with a strained 
piquante sauce well reduced with caper vinegar 
and then add chopped capers. 

SMOKED COD'S ROES— Are best either split 
and broiled, or split and fried in butter ; served 
with Maitre d'Hotel butter poured over, gar- 
nished with lemon. 

BOILED SALT COD, CREAM SAUCE— Bone- 
less codfish steeped over night, boiled up, water 
thrown away, again boiled up using cold water; 
when done, taken up and drained; served with 
cream sauce poured over, garnished with plain 
boiled potatoes or with potatoes in their skins. 

SALT COD SHREDDED AND CREAMED— 
The fish prepared as in the preceding, then 
pulled into shreds, mixed into a reduced cream 
or cream sauce ; served on very hot toast, with 
a dusting of chopped parsley. 

CODFISH BALLS ; OR CODFISH CAKES— 
The shredded codfish of the preceding and an 
equal quantity of well mashed fresh boiled 
potatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper and nut- 
meg, bound with a few yolks of eggs, mixed 
well, made into small flattened cakes, rolled in 
flour, fried brown in bacon fat ; served with a 
slice of bacon, and a little cream sauce poured 
around. 

SCRAMBLED SALT COD ON TOAST— The 
cod steeped, double blanched, shred, lightly 
fried in butter, seasoned with red pepper, equal 
quantity of cream and beaten eggs then mixed 
and stirred into the fish, scrambled ligthly; 
served very hot on buttered toast. 

SCALLOPED SALT COD, (COD AU GRATIN) 
— The shredded and creamed cod filled into 
scallop shells or deep oval dishes, sprinkled 
with mixed grated cheese and sifted bread- 
crumbs, browned in the oven or under a sala- 
mander. 

CODFISH CHOWDER— Can be made with 
either fresh or salt fish ; if the salt soak it over 
night, blanch it twice so as to extract the salt, 
fry some small pieces of salt pork with an onion 
minced, when of a light color, remove from the 
fire, add the fish in flakes (freed from bone), 
some raw peeled potatoes cut in squares, a sea- 
soning of thyme, marjoram, pepper and a can 
of tomatoes, fill the saucepan half full with fish 
broth, put on the lid, place in oven and let it 
simmer for an hour, take out, and work in with- 
out breaking the potatoes an equal quantity of 
thin cream sauce, add a little chopped parsley 
and serve. (After the cream sauce is in it must 
not be allowed to boil again or it will curdle). 

COD AND OYSTER PIE, FRENCH STYLE— 
Fresh boiled cod in flakes, scalded oysters 
added, mixed with Aurora sauce, kept hot in 
bain-marie, platter shaped pieces of puff paste 
split, cod and oysters in sauce placed on the 
lower crust, covered with the upper crust and 
served very hot. 



62 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CODFISH TONGUE PATTIES— The tongues 
steeped and blanched, then fried with butter, 
drained, mixed with tomato sauce, filled into 
hot patty shells and served. 

SALT CODFISH HASH, NEW ENGLAND 
STYLE — The shredded and creamed cod pre- 
viously mentioned mixed with an equal quantity 
of potatoes cut in thin strips like matches, 
which are then boiled in cream; when done and 
well reduced, mixed with the fish and served 
very hot on toast. 

COFFEE— The national breakfast beverage; to 
be well made use a high grade of coffee, per- 
fectly roasted, properly ground, twelve ounces 
to the gallon of water for morning coffee, while 
for after dinner coffee (which is generally served 
in small cups) sixteen ounces to the gallon is 
required; fresh boiling water the moment it 
reaches the bubbling point, then only a little at 
first to open the pores of the coffee and get it 
ready to receive the remainder, which is to be 
put on a little at a time until ALL the good and 
NONE of the bitterness (tannin) is extracted, 
for if it be too strong for some, it can easily be 
diluted with boiling water when in the cups; 
HOT cups first, then the sugar, then warmed 
milk (not boiled), then the coffee, and if afforded, 
put on the top a teaspoonful of whipped cream, 
then you have a veritable nectar; the cream 
cleaves to the roof of the mouth, and the coffee 
slips down "like the oil down Aaron's beard". 

COFFEE ICE CREAM— One quart of fresh made 
and cooled coffee, with three pounds of pow- 
dered and sifted sugar to each gallon of pure 
cream, mixed, strained into the freezer and 
frozen. 

COGNAC pronounced KONEYAK— The term 
used by the French for brandy. 

COLBERT — Name given to a sauce and a soup. 
Sauce made of a pint of good Espagnole, into 
which is mixed a little meat glaze, lemon juice, 
chopped parsley, and red pepper, made very hot 
without being boiled, then very gradually beaten 
in a half pint of clear melted butter. The soup 
is made with a rich consomme and contains 
shredded celery and lettuce blanched, diced 
artichoke bottoms and small button onions. 

COLBERT SOUP— Another way is to make a 
rich cream soup ligh'ly thickened with a liaison 
of egg yolks and cream, into which is then 
worked a puree of blanched hearts of endive, a 
fresh soft poached egg being served with each 
portion. 

COMPOTE— A term used in cookery to signify 
something whole in a sauce. Hence a compote 
of fruit is the fruit either whole, or split and the 
stone or core removed, dropped into a thick 
boiling syrup till cooked without breaking, 
cooled, served with the syrup. A compote of 
birds such as larks, reedbirds, ortolans, etc. are 
the birds boned and stuffed, then lightly 
roasted, then finished cooking in a bright sauce; 
served with the sauce. 



CONDE— pronounced KONDAY — Term applied 
to a dish of stewed apricots served with rice; 
also to a soup of puree of red haricot beans, 
which dishes it is said the "Prince of Conde" 
originated. 
CONSOMME — Name applied in cookery to a 
strong clarified soup, the different consommes 
seen on bills of fare, called Consomme a la 
this and a la that, simply terrorizes the guests 
as well as the young cooks, and are merely sig- 
nificant of the different garnitures that are 
placed in the soup or plate before being served, 
or else the flavor of the principal meat of which 
the consomme was made. The ingredients for 
a good general every day consomme is here 
given. 
CONSOMME INGREDIENTS- To make five 
gallons (which quantity should serve ioo guests) 
take fifteen pounds of LEAN beef trimmings, 
six medium sized peeled carrots, same of 
onions, twelve leeks, two heads of celery, a 
bunch of parsley and a gallon of tomatoes all 
chopped fine, mix with them after chopping, 
one tablespoonful of whole peppers, twelve 
cloves, six bay leaves, eighteen beaten whites 
of eggs and their shells, a little salt, then add 
stirring all the time, eight gallons of good stock 
free from fat, COLD, or if hot, place a chunk 
of ice in the saucepan before pouring in the hot 
stock. Next, place saucepan on the range, add 
three hens, (they can be used as salads after) 
fetch to a slow simmer and reduce to about five 
gallons in four hours, then strain through a 
consomme towel (double cheese cloth). 
In the following numerous consommes there 
will be stated certain flavors such as "veal," 
"chicken," "game," "mutton," "vegetable," 
" fish," etc. When the recipe has this statement, 
it means that the stock besides containing the in- 
gredients mentioned for making consomme should 
have an extra supply of the flavor called for, so 
that it will be distinct from the ordinary flavor of 
plain consomme. 

CONSOMME AFRICAINE— Cooked artichoke 
bottoms and egg plant cut in small squares, 
kept hot in consomme, spoonful placed in each 
plate at time of serving; a teaspoonful of curry 
powder to each gallon of stock should be mixed 
with the ingredients before boiling so as to give 
the soup a light curry flavor. 
CONSOMME ANDALOUSE— After the plain 
consomme is strained and seasoned, some well 
washed pearl tapioca is simmered in it till per- 
fectly clear; small poached quenelles of force- 
meat are kept hot in a little consomme, and one 
or two added to each plate at time of serving; 
the soup should have strong tomato flavor with 
a suspicion of garlic. 
CONSOMME ANGLAISE— Plain consomme 
made with plenty of veal bones to give it a gela- 
tinous taste; served with green peas and small 
squares of white chicken meat in each plate. 
CONSOMME BAGRATION— Make two sepa 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



63 



rate consemm^s, one plain, the other with 
plenty of fish heads, when both are strained 
and seasoned, mix together, so that the fish 
flavor slightly predominates; when serving, a 
spoonful of the following mixture is placed in 
each plate of soup; small fish quenelles, tails of 
crayfish, flakes of small fish, and small cut vege- 
tables of the season. 

CONSOMME BEAUVILLIERS— Soup of vege- 
table flavor, served with slices of stuffed cucum- 
bers and small squares of toast. To stuff the 
cucumbers, cut off the ends, remove the seedy 
part with a column cutter, fill it with any force- 
meat you have on hand, then simmer in milk 
and water till done, remove and drain, and when 
cold cut in thin slices, 

CONSOMME BOURDALOUE— A chicken-fla\- 
ored soup served with small squares of cooked 
chicken breast, green peas, circular thin slices 
of rice that has been mixed with egg yolks and 
montpelier butter, then steamed and allowed to 
become cold. 

CONSOMME BARIGOULE— A game-flavored 
soup seasoned with sherry wine, and served 
with slices of stuffed olives together with slices 
of button mushrooms. 

CONSOMME BRUNOISE— A vegetable-flav- 
ored soup served with green peas, very small 
squares of carrot, turnip (white and yellow) 
celery and artichokes. 

CONSOMME BOURGEOISE— To the con- 
somme ingredients is added a couple of ham 
knuckles, thus giving the soup a slight ham 
flavor. It is served with shred cooked cabbage, 
leeks, very small balls of potatoes, and minute 
squares of carrot, turnip and celery. 

CONSOMME CAREME— A plain consomme 
flavored with Madeira wine and served with 
small sippets of toast, together with small cir- 
cular slices of cooked carrot, white and yellow 
turnip, finely shred lettuce, sorrel leaves and a 
sprinkling of chopped chervil. 

CONSOMME CELESTINE-A plain consomme 
flavored with sherry wine, served with small 
sandwiches of the following: Make six French 
pancakes, spread three with forcemeat and 
grated cheese, place the other three on top, 
then stamp them with a medium-sized column 
cutter. 

CONSOMME CHATELAINE— A plain con- 
somme served with green peas, shredded string 
beans and squares of custard, made of one pint 
of onion puree, 24 egg yolks, salt, red pepper, 
mixed and steamed. 

CONSOMME CHANTILLY— A bunch of fresh 
mint should be boiled with the consomme in- 
gredients, the soup to be served with blanched 
rings of green onion tops, and small squares of 
a stiff puree of green peas. 

CONSOMME WITH CHOUX— A plain con- 
somme served with green peas, slices of button 
mushrooms and small balls of choux paste made 
like stoned olives, the centre filled with force- 



meat and baked ten minutes. 

CONSOMME CHIFFONADE — A vegetable 
flavored soup served with shredded cabbage 
and lettuce, thin strips of carrot and turnip, 
together with green peas. 

CONSOMME CLAREMONT — A plain con- 
somme served with small rings of onions that 
have been dipped in milk, then flour, then fried 
crisp ; together with Royal custards cut in 
squares or circles, made of ten yolks of eggs, 
two whole eggs, and half pint of cold consomme; 
mixed together, not beaten; slowly steamed till 
set. 

CONSOMME COLBERT — A plain consomme 
served with a freshly poached egg, and a spoon- 
ful of small cut vegetables of the season. 

CONSOMME WITH CELERY — Plenty of 
celery trimmings should be boiled with the con- 
somme ingredients, the soup served with a 
spoonful of shredded cooked celery, thin strips 
of tongue, mushrooms and a little dry boiled 
rice. 

CONSOMME CUSSY— With the consomme" in- 
gredients should be boiled plenty of game trim- 
mings to give the soup a game flavor. It is 
served with small blanched and peeled chest- 
nuts, a small timbale of game forcemeat mixed 
with mushrooms, finished with a little Madeira 
wine. 

CONSOMME DUCHESSE- Strain off a plain 
consomme, then thicken it with corn-starch 
mixed with water, simmer it till it is perfectly 
clear and gelatinous; it is then served with 
strips of white chicken meat ; the soup to be of 
strong chicken flavor. 

CONSOMME WITH DARIOLES— A consomme 
of strong chicken flavor served with quarters of 
darioles made of a pound of lean grated ham, 
half a cupful of Soubise puree, half a cupful 
of tomato puree, two whole eggs, eight yolks 
of eggs, a wine glass of Madeira wine, same of 
cold consomme, with a dash of red pepper; 
make the whole into a paste, then rub it through 
a fine sieve, fill dariole molds, steam till set, 
cut in quarters when cold, and serve with the 
soup together with green peas. 

CONSOMME DESCLIGNAC— A plain con- 
somme flavored with sherry wine, served with 
circular slices of Royal custards. 

CONSOMME DOUGLAS— A plain consomme 
served with shreds of cooked celery, red tongue, 
mushrooms and a little dry boiled rice. 

CONSOMME DUBORG— A plain consomme 
served with dry boiled rice and some fancy 
shapes of Royal custards. 

CONSOMME D'ORSAY — A strong chicken 
flavored consomme served with an egg poached 
in consomme, together with very small cut 
vegetables of the season. 

CONSOMME DAUMONT— A sherry wine-flav- 
ored consomme served with small pieces of 
cooked chicken breast, sweetbread, red tongue 
and tops of button mushrooms. 



6 4 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CONSOMME EPICURE— A strong consomme 
of game-flavor, seasoned with Madeira wine, 
and served with a freshly poached egg in each 
plate. 

CONSOMME OF GAME— The preceding, but 
in place of the egg, it is served with quenelles 
or raviolis made of uncooked partridge one part, 
cooked calf's brains one part, Parmesan cheese 
half part, yolks of eggs to bind, pounded, 
rubbed through a fine sieve, molded into 
quenelles and poached. 

CONSOMME GAMBETTA— A chicken-flavored 
consomme served with a poached yolk of egg, 
and three quenelles of veal, one of its natural 
color, the others being colored red and green 
respectively. 

CONSOMME INDIENNE— Same as "consomme 
Africaine" adding, however, strips of cooked 
chicken breast and a little dry boiled rice. 

CONSOMME IMPERATRICE-A strong chicken 
flavored consomme served with a freshly poached 
egg in each plate. 

CONSOMME ITALIENNE— A plain consomme 
slightly flavored with tomatoes and a suspicion 
of garlic; served with green peas and small 
pieces of well washed macaroni. 

CONSOMME IMPERIAL— A chicken flavored 
consomme served with green; peas, asparagus 
points and small quenelles of chicken forcemeat. 

CONSOMME JULIENNE— A vegetable flavored 
consomme served with fine shreds of green 
stringless beans, carrot, turnip, cabbage, celery, 
leeks, spring onions, and green peas, the vege- 
tables should be sauteed in butter first, before 
simmering them in the consomme. 

CONSOMME JOINVILLE— A strong consomme 
well flavored with fish heads, pounded lobster 
heads and shells; when strained off, seasoned 
with white wine, served with small pieces of 
lobster and croutons souffles. 

CONSOMME KURSEL— A vegetable flavored 
consomme served with a spoonful of cooked 
green peas, asparagus tips, shred lettuce, cut 
stringless beans, flageolets and green onions. 

CONSOMME MARIE STUART— A mutton flav- 
ored consomme served with a spoonful of well 
washed, cooked pearl barley, and small cut 
vegetables of the season. 

CONSOMME MACEDOINE— A chicken flav- 
ored consomme served with a mixture of vari- 
colored vegetables cut in very small squares, or 
else use the canned macedoines. 

CONSOMME MAGENTA— A plain consomme 
slightly colored with tomato juice, to which is 
added a macedoine of vegetables and some 
chopped parsley and celery leaves. 

CONSOMME MASSENA— Made with plenty of 
hare or jack rabbit trimmings mixed with the 
consomme ingredients, when strained off, flav- 
ored with sherry wine; served with small que- 
nelles of rabbit. 



CONSOMME WITH MACARONI— A roast poul- 
try stock should be used to make the consomme; 
when strained off and seasoned, served with 
macaroni that has been boiled, washed, drained, 
and then cut into quarter-inch pieces. 
CONSOMME MILANAISE— The preceding 
made consomme served with the addition to the 
macaroni, one inch lengths of boiled smoked 
tongue; a butter chip full of Parmesan cheese 
should be served separately. 
CONSOMME MONTE CARLO— A rich chicken 
flavored consomme served with slices of cooked 
vegetables stamped out with cutters represent- 
ing clubs, spades, hearts and diamonds; also 
circular slices of chicken forcemeat that is dotted 
with truffles to represent dominoes; also circu- 
lar slices of cooked beetroot, carrot and turnip 
representing poker chips. 
CONSOMME MEFICIS— A rich chicken flavored 
consomme lightly thickened with corn starch; 
served with a freshly poached egg in each plate, 
together with a canape or small patty of chicken 
forcemeat served separately. 
CONSOMME MONTMORENCY— A rich flav- 
ored chicken consomme served with noodles, 
small balls of chicken forcemeat, and some let- 
tuce leaves spread with chicken forcemeat rolled 
up like cigarettes and braised. 
CONSOMME NAPOLITAINE— A game flavored 
consomme to which is added Madeira wine, 
served with small cut and washed macaroni, 
cooked celery cut in small squares, and small 
croutons of toast. 
CONSOMME WITH NOODLES— A rich chick- 
en flavored consomme served with finely shred 
noodles. 
CONSOMME NIVERNAISE — A plain con- 
somme flavored with sherry wine; served with 
small quenelles of veal, together with fancy 
Italian paste, and a macedoine of vegetables. 
CONSOMME NAUDIER -A rich chicken fla- 
vored consomme served with small quenelles of 
chicken forcemeat of different colors; to make 
which, take some chicken forcemeat and divide 
it into four parts; into the first work some finely 
chopped truffle peelings; the second finely 
minced red tongue; the third, chopped parsley; 
the fourth, minced yolks of hard boiled eggs. 
CONSOMME NILSSON— A rich chicken fla- 
vored consomme served with small quenelles 
of chicken forcemeat in three colors shape of a 
pencil, an inch long; to make which, divide the 
forcemeat into three parts, leave one plain, 
color the others red and green respectively. 
CONSOMME ORGE— A plain consomme served 
with pearl barley, breast of cooked chicken cut 
in squares, carrots and turnips cut into small 
squares. 
CONSOMME WITH PEAS— A vegetable fla- 
vored consomme served with green peas, to- 
gether with black peas scooped out of truffles. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



65 



CONSOMME POISSON — A plain consomme 
slightly flavored with fish stock, seasoned with 
sherry wine; served with green peas, dry boiled 
rice and small quenelles of lobster. 

CONSOMME PRINTANIERE — A vegetable 
flavored consomme served with plenty of green 
peas, asparagus tips, and other spring vegeta- 
bles cut small. 

CONSOMME PRINTANIERE ROYAL— Same 
as the preceding, with the addition of Royal 
custards, into which has been steamed a finely 
cut macedoine of vegetables. 

CONSOMME PAYSANNE— A vegetable flavored 
consomme served with a jardiniere of vege- 
tables, shred cabbage and lettuce. 

CONSOMME PRINCESSE— A rich chicken fla- 
vored consomme served with green peas, aspar" 
agus tips, pearl barley, diced chicken breast- 
and forcemeat quenelles. 

CONSOMME PATTI— A plain consomme served 
with rice, green peas, breast of chicken and 
truffles cut in small squares, together with 
some Parmesan cheese served separately. 

CONSOMME PATE D'lTALIE— A chicken fla 
vored consomme" served with fancy Italian 
paste. 

CONSOMME PRINCE DE GALLES--A game 
flavored consomme, served with asparagus tips. 
Royal custards, breast of chicken and chicken 
forcemeat, all cut in diamond shapes. 

CONSOMME PALESTINE— A chicken flavored 
consomme served with dry boiled rice, and thin 
slices of stewed Jerusalem artichokes. 

CONSOMME WITH QUENELLES, ASPAR. 
AGUS TIPS, TURNIPS, RICE, CORN, 
PEAS, OR ANY OTHER SIMPLE THING, 
AS OFTEN SEEN ON BILLS OF FARE- 
IS SIMPLY A PLAIN CONSOMME SERVED 
WITH THE ARTICLE NAMED. 

CONSOMME ROY ALE— A plain consomme 
served with circular slices of Royal custards, 
and flavored with sherry wine. 

CONSOMME RACHAEL— A game flavored con- 
somme seasoned with Madeira wine, and served 
with small quenelles of game together with 
shreds of cooked red tongue and truffles. 

CONSOMME RENAISSANCE— A game flavored 
consomme seasoned with Malaga wine; served 
with sliced mushrooms, dry boiled rice, green 
peas and croutons. 

CONSOMME RIVOLI— A plain consomme but 
highly spiced; served with noodles, also Parme- 
san cheese served separately. 

CONSOMME SEMOULE— A plain consomme, 
when strained off has tapioca or semolina washed, 
then simmered till same is clear in the soup. 
CONSOMME SAGOU— Same as the preceding, 

but using sago instead of tapioca. 
CONSOMME DE STAEL— A chicken flavored 
consomme served with lozenge shaped pieces of 
fried bread, and small quenelles of chicken 
forcemeat. 



CONSOMME SEVEIGNE— A chicken flavored 
consomme" served with asparagus tips, cut string- 
less beans, green peas, and Royal custards 
mixed with forcemeat. 
CONSOMME SOLFERINO— A strong beef fla- 
vored consomme; served with small quenelles of 
farina. Plenty of roast beef bones should be 
boiled in the stock. 

CONSOMME SUEDOISE— A rich chicken fla- 
vored consomme served with a small croustade 
in each plate filled with a mixture as follows: 
run a couple of carrots, turnips and a small cab- 
bage through a mincing machine, braise them 
till done, then mix with them a can each of 
flageolet beans and green peas, also a little 
Parmesan cheese; season to taste, 

CONSOMME TROIS RACINES— A mutton fla- 
vored consomme served with cubes of braised 
turnip, carrot and celery, 

CONSOMME TALMA— A chicken flavored con- 
somme served with grains of boiled rice, and 
shapes of Royal custards made of eggs and 
almond milk. 

CONSOMME ST. X AVIER— A vegetable flavored 
consomme served with a Printaniere of vege- 
tables, shred cabbage and the following: Cook 
together four ounces of butter, six ounces of 
flour, two ounces of grated cheese, one cup of 
cream; season it with pepper, salt and nutmeg; 
remove from the fire when done, and beat into 
it two whole eggs, two yolks of eggs, some 
chopped parsley; then rub it through a colan- 
der into the simmering soup. 

CONSOMME VERMICELLI— Is simply a rich 
veal flavored consomme served with vermicelli 
that has been boiled, and then well washed and 
drained. 

CONSOMME VOLAILLE— Is simply a rich 
chicken flavored consomme served with strips of 
chicken meat. 

COQ — The French word for "cock", hence they 
have "coqde Bruyere" which in English means 
black cock or heath fowl, " coq d'Inde " or 
turkey cock. 

COQUILLE — Is the French word for shell, and 
we have many dishes served "en coquille" or 
in shell, generally in a scallop shell, either nat- 
ural, or of metal or earthernware to imitate it. 

CORBEILLE— Is the French word for basket 
that is used to hold a display of crystallized 
fruits or flowers, etc , etc. 

CORDIALS — Or liqueurs as the French call them, 
enter into many ices and drinks that are served 
at banquets, of which the following is a list of 
those most used. "Absinthe, Alkermes, Bene- 
dictine, Chartreuse, Curacoa, Kummel, Shrub, 
Kirsch or Kirschenwasser, Maraschino, Nectar, 
Negus, Noyeau, Punch, Ratafia and Vermouth. 

CORIANDER — Name of an aromatic seed resem- 
bling whole peppers in size and shape, used by 
confectioners as a flavoring, also by the cook 
for seasoning green turtle soup. 



66 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CORN — A most succulent and nutritious vege- 
table. In its green state it is generally boiled 
for about twenty minutes in boiling water con- 
taining milk and salt, and is served on the cob. 
The dried corn or maize, (MAIS in French,) is 
ground coarse or fine for making the following 
dishes. 

CORN MEAL MUSH— One gallon of water, one 
ounce each of salt and butter. The seasoned 
water is brought to the boil, into which is then 
strewn and beaten one and a quarter pounds of 
corn meal; when boiled up again, it should be 
removed to the back of the range where it must 
simmer for three hours with a cover on; served 
with cream or milk and sugar. 

FRIED CORN MUSH— A popular breakfast 
dish. The mush of the preceding when cooked 
is poured into a buttered pan, smoothed, the top 
then brushed with melted butter to prevent a 
hard skin forming, allowed to become cold, cut in 
blocks or slices, fried plain in butter, or breaded 
and fried; served with maple syrup. 

CORN BATTER CAKES— For recipe see head- 
ing of "Batters." 

CORN GEMS OR MUFFINS— One and a half 
pounds of corn meal, three quarters of a pound 
of sifted wheat flour, three teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing powder, half a cup of granulated sugar, one 
teaspoonful salt, all mixed together dry; one 
and a half pints each of water and milk, six 
beaten eggs, half a cupful of melted butter mixed 
together, the dry and wet mixtures then thor- 
oughly incorporated and poured into hot greased 
patty shells or muffin rings and baked; light and 
delicious. 

CORN BREAD, JOHNNY CAKE OR CORN 
DODGER — The preceding mixture poured into 
greased hot shallow baking pans and baked well 
done with crisp corners. 

CORN MEAL GRUEL— Well boiled corn meal 
mush two-thirds, slightly sweetened boiling milk 
one-third, mixed, then forced through a fine 
sieve or colander. 

CORN WAFFLES— The mixture above given 
for "Corn Muffins," poured into hot waffle 
irons, baked and served dusted with powdered 
sugar. 

CORN BLANC-MANGE— Equal quantities of 
white corn meal and corn starch mixed dry, 
beaten into boiling milk sweetened to taste, 
then allowed to simmer for an hour, removed, 
flavored, poured into decorated molds, turned 
out when set and cold; served with whipped 
cream, fruit syrups or slewed fruits. 

CORN MEAL OR INDIAN PUDDING— Thick 
well boiled corn meal mush allowed to partly 
cool, into which is then mixed seedless raisins, 
grated lemon rind, ginger, butter.a little molasses 
beaten with a very little baking soda, beaten 
eggs, then baked and served with a fruit syrup 
sauce. 

POLENTA — The Italian name for our corn meal 



mush; they also make a polenta from chestnut 
flour. 
HULLED CORN— Dried white corn soaked in 
weak lye for two days is then well washed, 
boiled tender and served plain with milk. In 
the larger cities there are people who prepare 
it and sell it ready for boiling. 

TORTILLAS, A CORN CAKE MADE BY THE 
MEXICANS— The tortilla is typical of old Mex- 
ico, and is encountered wherever the influence 
of the cactus republic has reached. It was 
found as the main article of food among the 
ancient Aztecs at the time of the Spanish con- 
quests, more than three and a half centuries ago; 
and the little hand ground and palm-fashioned 
corn cake has well held its own down through 
the ages, being today as popular and in as gen- 
eral use as ever. Shelled corn intended for this 
use is first soaked over night in lime water until 
the outer husk of the kernels is loose enough to 
be removed by being rolled between the hands, 
and is then ready for grinding. This is done 
by the Mexican women of the lower classes, 
who often work in the doorways of their homes, 
bending over the historic stone hand mill, called 
in Mexico a MAT ATE. The mill is simply a 
rough slab of stone supported by four stocky 
legs and is made of bolcanic tufa, the coarse 
grain of which is best adapted for the grinding 
of the corn, beans, chilli seeds, cheese or what- 
ever it maybe desired to finely pulverize. The 
stone mill is an indispensable item in the culin- 
ary outfit of the tropical home. The accompany- 
ing handpiece, looking like a rude rolling pin, is 
also of stone, and is briskly worked up and down 
the incline of the rude stone table by the woman 
as she bends to her work with a steady swing of 
body, shoulders and arms. It is claimed that 
the flour for the tortillas can be perfectly 
milled only by their ancient methods, and when 
one sees the result of the grinding he is ready 
to admit that possibly they are right. As the 
moist windrows of the meal roll off the grinding 
board it is caught in a basin and is then ready 
for being formed into cakes for baking. When 
ready to bake a woman takes a small lump of 
the heavy mixture and lays it in the palm of her 
hand; then with the other palm, she rolls it into 
a ball and begins to quickly pat it in to the de- 
sired thinness, deftly spreading the fingers to 
allow it to enlarge its size, and changing it from 
hand to hand until it is only an eighth of an inch 
in thickness and generally about six inches in 
diameter, although sometimes as large as a din- 
ner plate. The plastic cakes are tossed, one 
after another, as completed, upon the stove 
called a Brasero, and as fast as delicately 
browned and turned they are placed in a steam- 
ing heap and enveloped in a cloth to keep them 
warm. 

CORN FRITTERS — Canned corn, or cooked 
corn cut off the cob, pounded, mixed with a little 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



67 



flour, beaten eggs, salt, pepper and a little but- 
ter, dropped by spoonfuls into hot fat and fried 
brown; served as a garniture to chicken, Mary- 
land style, or as a vegetable. 

GRATED CORN PUDDING— Two quarts of 
cooked corn grated off the cob, eight yolks of 
eggs, cup of melted butter, pint of milk, salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, mixed, poured into but- 
tered baking pans, baked; served with a sweet 
sauce. 

GREEN CORN SAUTE— Boiled corn cut from 
the cob, melted butter in saute pan, corn tossed 
and heated thoroughly in it, seasoned with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg; served very hot; after 
sauteeing, it may also be mixed with a cream 
or Bechamel sauce, and served as a vegetable. 

GREEN CORN BATTER CAKES— Two quarts 
of cooked corn grated from the cob, twelve 
ounces of flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, pint and 
a half of milk, four beaten eggs, thoroughly 
mixed, baked on a griddle; served with butter 
and sugar, or syrup. 

CORN SOUP — Fresh green corn partly grated 
off the cob and placed aside; the rest on the cob 
boiled in chicken broth till tender, then strain 
it off on to the grated pulp, boil up, season with 
buttei, salt, nutmeg and a little sugar, then pass 
it through a fine sieve into an equal quantity of 
VeUoute" sauce. Another way is to take canned 
corn, pound it, rub it through a sieve, boil it 
with milk, then mix it with Veloute sauce. 

CORN AND TOMATO SOUP— Canned, or corn 
cut from the cob, passed through a mincing 
machine, then rubbed through a fine sieve, the 
puree thus obtained boiled in a Veloute sauce, 
then combined with an equal quantity of tomato 
puree. 

ROAST CORN IN EAR— Young green corn with 
the thick outer husks removed, the inner leaves 
after removing the silk, tied at the top, slowly 
roasted till done; served with the green cover- 
ing; cut top and bottom so as be removed easily. 

POP CORN — A variety of corn that is held in a 
wire basket over heat enough to burst or pop it; 
it can then be cemented together into balls with 
butter and syrup, etc. 

ROAST GREEN CORN— Young green corn 
stripped and the silk removed, arranged in a 
buttered baking pan, seasoned with salt, white 
pepper and melted butter, slowly baked, basted 
and turned till done. 

CORN STARCH— A preparation of the inner 
part of corn used in making blanc-manges, 
thickening soups, sauces, etc. 

STEWED CORN, CREOLE STYLE— Canned 
corn, or corn cooked and cut from the cob, 
mixed with an equal quantity of peeled and 
cooked tomatoes, a grating of onion and garlic, 
salt, pepper and butter, boiled down thick; 
served as a vegetable. 

CORN SALAD — Called " Doucette " by the 
French, is a herb used in mixing salads; some- 



times made into a salad by itself; is good to 
mix with lettuce salad, giving it a slightly bitter 
taste; it resembles somewhat a cabbage lettuce 
in appearance and growth. 

COTELETTES— The French word for our cut- 
lets, but is generally applied to rib chops of 
mutton, lamb and veal. 

COURTBOUILLON— Is the name of a highly 
seasoned broth used to boil fresh water fish, to 
impart a better flavor to them, and is made 
from carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaves, cloves, 
thyme, garlic, sliced lemon, chervil, salt and 
pepper, all tied in a muslin bag and boiled with 
a few fish heads in water containing white or 
red wine or vinegar; after the seasoning is 
extracted, it is strained and put away for use as 
required; it also enters into a few soups, sauces 
and garnitures, such as Havraise, Holstein, 
Normande and Venitienne sauces, Chambord 
and Genevoise garnitures, Bouillabaisse, Eel, 
Lobster and other fish soups and bisques. 

CRABS — Are a delectable shellfish. In this country 
we use for food two kinds, the hard shell blue 
crab which periodically sheds its shell, thus giv- 
ing us the "soft shell crab" and the oyster crab. 
The male crab has a long white, narrow tail 
turned round its under part, the female has a 
broad brownish, feathery tail. The centre of 
the body is filled with its liver, which is a soft 
yellow substance. The meat used is obtained 
from the inner top of the back, and the claws. 
Crab meat is tasty but comparatively poor in 
nutriment and very hard to digest. There is one 
firm in this country " McMenamin of Hamp- 
ton, Virginia," who for years past have made 
a specialty of putting up fresh cooked crab meat 
in cans, supplying with each can a sufficient 
number of shells to hold the amount of meat. 
They are obtainable of leading grocers every- 
where, and from personal experience of their 
use, the author can say that he has found their 
crab meat give perfect satisfaction to hotel 
patrons. 

CRAB CAKES — Cooked crab meat four parts, 
fresh bread crumbs one part, mixed and sea- 
soned with salt, nutmeg, red pepper, and 
chopped parsley, and bound with raw egg yolks; 
made into cakes like "codfish cakes" then 
breaded and fried; served with cream or Hol- 
landaise sauces. 

CRAB TOAST— Cooked crab meat sauteed with 
butter, seasoned with salt, nutmeg and red 
pepper; served piled high on slices of hot but- 
tered toast. 

BUTTERED CRAB — Cooked crab meat cut 
small, two parts; fresh bread crumbs, one part; 
mixed and seasoned with a little chopped 
parsley, salt, red pepper, nutmeg, caper vinegar 
and melted butter, then packed into crab shells, 
sprinkled with bread crumbs, then melted but- 
ter, browned in hot oven and served. 



68 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



CRAB SAUSAGES — Cooked crab meat seasoned 
with chervil, a suspicion of garlic, salt, red 
pepper and minced chives, the whole pounded, 
rubbed through a sieve, bound with raw yolks 
of eggs, formed into shapes of sausages, rolled 
in flour, fried a delicate brown with butter; 
served with tartar sauce. 

CRAB FRITTERS — Cooked crab meat finely 
minced, mixed with a little minced fried onion, 
a suspicion of garlic, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce and 
chopped parsley, all boiled down in a Veloute 
sauce till thick; then is worked in a few beaten 
egg yolks, removed and poured into a buttered 
pan and allowed to become cold; then cut in 
finger slices, dipped into a thin frying batter, 
fried; served with tartar sauce. 

CRAB CANAPES— Minced cooked crab meat 
mixed with a little finely minced fried shallots, 
seasoned with salt, red pepper and grated Par- 
mesan cheese, boiled down thick with a rich 
Veloute sauce, allowed to cool, then spread on 
fancy shapes of toast, the meat then strewn with 
grated cheese, browned off in hot oven and 
served. 

CRAB OMELET— The preceding mixture while 
still hot enclosed in centre of omelet; served 
with Veloute sauce poured around. 

CRAB SALAD — Cooked crab meat cut fine, sea- 
soned with oil, tarragon vinegar, salt and red 
pepper mixed with a little finely shred and 
minced white cabbage; served on a leaf of 
lettuce, garnished with shred lettuce, stuffed 
olives, and slices of hard boiled eggs. 

CRAB STEW — Cooked crab meat seasoned with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, made hot in a rich 
Bechamel sauce; served in cases or croustades, 
the top sprinkled with parsley dust. 

CRAB, QUEEN STYLE— Cold cooked crab 
meat in shreds three parts, finely shred hearts 
of celery one part, mixed, seasoned with tarra- 
gon vinegar, olive oil, salt and red pepper, filled 
into crab shells, masked with mayonnaise, dec- 
orated with small shapes of hard boiled eggs, 
lobster coral and sliced stuffed olives, (called 
CRAB A LA REINE). 

EMINCE OF CRAB — Shredded cooked crab 
meat seasoned with salt, red pepper, dash of 
Worcestershire sauce and caper vinegar, mixed 
with a little Parmesan cheese, tossed and 
thoroughly heated in a sautoir with butter; 
served on hot buttered toast, sprinkled with 
chopped parsley. 

DEVILED CRABS— Cooked crab meat mixed 
with minced whites of hard boiled eggs and the 
yolks rubbed through a sieve, seasoned with 
salt, red pepper, dry mustard, Worcestershire 
sauce and tarragon vinegar; made hot with a 
good allowance of melted butter, filled into 
shells, smoothed, strewn with sifted bread 
crumbs, browned off in the oven and served very 



hot. Some cooks have a habit of mixing the 
crab meat with a highly seasoned sauce instead 
of the directions just given, with the result that 
if not all served at the one meal, they go flat 
when cold, and look unsightly and unservice- 
able when reheated. 

SCALLOPED CRABS— The deviled crab mix- 
ture of the preceding moistened with Veloute 
sauce, filled into crab or scallop shells, or small 
oval deep dishes, strewn with grated cheese 
and melted butter, browned in hot oven and 
served. 

BAKED CRABS— Minced shallots, thinly sliced 
mushrooms lightly fried together with butter, 
into which is then mixed cooked crab meat, 
truffle trimmings, chopped parsley, salt, red 
pepper and a little Veloute sauce; filled into 
large crab shells, strewn with fresh sifted bread 
crumbs, browned in oven, served hot. 

CRABS, CREOLE STYLE— Live hard shell 
crabs, fish-kettle with separate perforated 
bottom, under which is poured white wine vine- 
gar seasoned with salt and red pepper; live 
crabs placed on the false bottom, lid of kettle 
placed on tightly, kettle put over a good fire; 
when crabs are of a bright red color, taken up 
and served at once with the under shell separated. 

CROUSTADE OF CRABS— Cooked crab meat 
sauteed with minced shallots in butter, seasoned 
with salt, red pepper and caper vinegar, moist- 
ened and heated with sauce Normande, filled 
into bread or paste croustades; served very hot. 

CRAB FORCEMEAT— Cooked crab meat finely 
minced with chervil, chives and a small clove 
of garlic, seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
caper vinegar, pounded, then rubbed through a 
fine sieve, bound with raw egg yolks. Set aside 
for use. 

CRAB CROQUETTES— Crab forcemeat made 
into shapes, breaded, fried; served with sauce 
Joinville. 

CRAB KROMESKIES— Cold crab forcemeat 
rolled into size and shape of a finger, bound 
with a thin slice of cold boiled bacon, pinned 
with a toothpick, dipped into a plain batter, 
fried, toothpick removed, served with tartar 
sauce. 

STUFFED CRAB— Cooked crab meat seasoned 
with tarragon vinegar, curry powder, salt and 
red pepper, slightly moistened with Veloute 
sauce, filled into shells, strewn with sifted 
bread crumbs, baked; served very hot. 

TOMATOES STUFFED WITH CRAB— Raw 
peeled tomatoes of an even size, hollowed out, 
seeds removed, the outside then covered with 
crab forcemeat, and the inside filled with dev- 
illed crab mixture, smoothed off, rolled in sifted 
bread crumbs, baked and basted with butter; 
served very hot. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



69 



CRAB SAUCE— Cooked crab meat minced with 
a few mushrooms, seasoned with nutmeg, salt, 
red pepper and lemon juice, simmered in 
Bechamel sauce for a few minutes; chopped 
parsley may be added if desired. 

CRAB GUMBO (soup)— Very small squares of 
raw lean ham fried a delicate brown with 
minced onion or shallots and crab meat, flour 
added to form a roux, moistened with equal 
parts of courtbouillon and chicken broth, 
brought to the boil, skimmed; shred green pep- 
pers, sliced okras and peeled and sliced toma- 
toes then added, simmered for an hour, sea- 
soned with salt, red pepper, herbs and white 
wine, a spoonful of dry boiled rice placed in 
each plate at time of serving. 

BISQUE OF CRABS— Live crabs blanched as 
for "Creole style," meat removed and lightly 
fried with minced shallots and a clove of garlic 
in butter, moistened with fish broth and white 
wine, brought to the boil, shells then added 
with some well washed rice; when rice is 
cooked, little roux added, the whole then rubbed 
through a tamis or puree seive, brought to the boil 
again, skimmed, seasoned with salt, red pepper 
and sherry wine; served with small croutons. 

BISQUE OF CRABS, CREOLE STYLE— Boil 
half a pound of rice to each gallon of soup re- 
quired, when done add its equal weight of 
cooked crab meat, pound to a paste, adding 
half a cupful of melted butter and a flavor of 
nutmeg, then rub it through a puree sieve; make 
the soup stock of thin Veloute sauce, add the rice 
and crab puree, bring to a simmer, then add 
sliced okras, minced red and green peppers, 
sliced peeled tomatoes, season with thyme, 
marjoram, red pepper and lemon juice, simmer 
slowly for one hour and serve. 

BOILED SOFT SHELL CRABS— Live crabs 
with small claws and sand pouch removed, 
dropped into boiling salted water and simmered 
for ten minutes; served with Veloute or parsley 
sauces. 

SOFT SHELL CRABS FRIED— Live crabs 
with sand pouch removed, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in milk, rolled in flour, 
then in beaten eggs and again bread crumbs, 
fried in deep fat or slowly in butter; served 
with tartar sauce, or with mayonnaise, garn- 
ished with parsley and lemon. 

SOFT SHELL CRABS BROILED— Prepared 
and breaded as in the preceding, placed between 
a double hinged wire broiler, broiled and basted 
with butter; served with tartar sauce, garn- 
ished with parsley and lemon. 

CURRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS— Take the 
very small ones and boil them a few minutes, 
then saute" them with minced onion in butter, 
take up, and put into curry sauce, simmer a 
few minutes; served with a border of boiled 
rice in grains. 



SOFT SHELL CRABS STEAMED— Live crabs 
with the small claws and sand pouch removed, 
placed on false bottom of fish kettle containing 
vinegar and water underneath; steamed ten 
minutes, served with Bechamel sauce. 
OYSTER CRABS, SAUCE POULETTE— Well 
washed oyster crabs sauteed with butter, sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, moistened with 
Hollandaise sauce sharp with lemon juice, add 
a little chopped parsley; take a small oval plat- 
ter, pipe a border of potato croquette mixture 
around the edge, brush it with butter and brown 
it off in the oven or under a salamander; serve 
the oyster crabs in the center. 

OYSTER CRABS FRIED— Oyster crabs well 
washed and drained, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, tossed in flour, thrown into cold milk, 
then into sifted bread crumbs, fried in hot deep 
grease like whitebait, taken up, drained, 
sprinkled with salt; served in cases or crous- 
tades. 

OYSTER CRAB PATTIES— Make the "oyster 
crabs, sauce Poulette" above, fill small puff 
paste patty shells with the mixture; serve with 
some Poulette sauce around the base. 

OYSTER CRABS, NEWBURG— Well washed 
and drained oyster crabs sauteed in butter for 
five minutes with some truffle trimmings, then 
is added some Madeira wine, reduce to one 
half, then work in a liaison of egg yolks and 
cream, shuffle about till thick and creamy; serve 
either in a tureen or chafing dish. 

CRAB APPLES— A small sour apple used as a 
preserve, crystalized, or in jams or jellies, also 
a medicinal cider. 

CRANBERRIES— A small red fruit that when 
made into a sauce or jelly is relished by the 
majority as an accompaniment to roast turkey, 
etc. 

CRANBERRY PIE— Cranberries washed, then 
put to boil with sugar and a very little water; 
when done, allowed to become cold; pie plates 
lined with short paste, spread with the cran- 
berries, strips of paste placed over the top, the 
paste brushed with egg wash, then baked. 

CRANBERRY JAM— or sauce— is the preceding 
mixture boiled down with more sugar until 
thick enough to coat a spoon. 

CRANBERRY JELLY- -Well washed cranber- 
ries: to each gallon, half a gallon of water, put 
to boil and boiled for ten minutes, they are then 
mashed and squeezed through a flannel jelly 
bag, the juice then returned to the fire with four 
pounds of sugar to each original gallon of cran- 
berries, this is then rapidly boiled from fifteen 
to twenty minutes, then poured into molds and 
set; served with turkey, or as a preserve. 

CRANBERRY ROLL — Light biscuit dough 
sweetened and flavored, rolled out thin, spread 
with cranberry jam, rolled up, ends tucked in, 



70 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



placed in buttered French bread pans and 
baked; or steamed; or tied in a floured cloth, 
plunged into boiling water and boiled; served 
in slices with sweet sauce. 

CRANBERRY TARTLETTES— Fancy sets of 
gem pans lined with puff paste trimmings, 
spread with cranberry jam, baked; served for 
dessert. 

THERE ARE TIMES WHEN THE STEWARD 
CAN BUY GOOD SOUND CRANBERRIES 
VERY CHEAP; HE SHOULD THEN DO 
SO, FOR THEY CAN BE KEPT SOUND 
FOR MONTHS IF FILLED INTO JARS 
AND KEPT IN A COOL PLACE, COVERED 
WITH WATER THAT IS OCCASIONALLY 
REPLENISHED. 

CRAPAUDINE — A French term applied to 
small birds that are split down the back, then 
trussed out resembling a frog, such as spring 
chickens, squabs, quails, partridges, etc, hence 
a squab " a la crapaudine" would be a squab 
split, spread out and trussed like a frog, broiled 
and served with crapaudine sauce. 

CRAYFISH — Also called " crawfish " is a diminu- 
tive looking lobster, found plentifully in our 
rivers. In Europe they catch a sea crayfish and 
often sell it as a lobster; cur river crayfish on 
account of its form and color brings it into use 
as an artistic garniture, while the flesh from the 
tail forms many delicate entrees, salads and 
sauces, also soups, that are much thought of 
on the European continent. 

CREAM — Spelled by the French " creme " it is 
the oleaginous part of milk, and forms the most 
delicate soups, sauces, custards, creams, ices 
russes, souffles, cheeses and pastries. . , In 
general hotel routine, the cook uses the word' 
cream, when little or no cream at all is used 
and with the following recipes such "creams' 
will predominate. 

CREAM SAUCE— Boiling milk, melted Dutterin 
a saucepan with as much flour as it will take 
up, stirred together, gradually moistened while 
stirring with the boiling milk, seasoned with 
salt, red pepper, nutmeg, and lastly, when re- 
moving from the fire, the juice of a lemon is 
added, strained through a fine strainer, and some 
pure cream then mixed in. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE— Boiling chicken broth 
flavored with the liquor from canned mush- 
rooms, flour and butter mixed, moistened 
gradually with the boiling liquor while stirring, 
seasoned with red pepper, salt, lemon juice and 
nutmeg, strained through a fine strainer, one 
fourth of its bulk of pure cream then added. 

CREAM FRITTERS— Boiling milk with a small 
piece of butter, sweetened to taste, thickened 
with corn starch mixed with cream, allowed to 
boil up again, then further thickened with a 
liaison of egg yolks and cream, removed from 



the fire, flavored, turned into a wet pan, allowed 
to become cold and firm, then cut into shapes, 
double breaded, fried, served with the follow- 
ing cream sauce. 

CREAM SAUCE— Two thirds milk and one third 
cream mixed and sweetened, brought to the 
boil, then thickened to the consistency of 
double cream with a little corn starch moistened 
with cream and egg yolks, strained, finished 
with a glass of Madeira wine. 

CREAM PUFFS — Choux paste (see recipe) piped 
into dome shapes on a baking sheet, baked, 
hole then made in side and filled with a cream, 
made as given for "cream fritters" above, but 
softer. 

WHIPPED CREAM— Good, heavy cold cream 
whipped till it stands like beaten whites of eggs; 
used for beverages, desserts, as an accompani- 
ment to shortcake, etc. 

BAVARIAN CREAM — The whipped cream 
above, when firm is sweetened and flavored, 
then melted gelatine at the rate of two ounces 
to the gallon is worked in quickly, rapidly 
poured into molds, shook level, set in ice box 
till firm, turned out on a dish; served either 
plain, or with cake, fruit, compotes, etc. 

BAVARIAN CREAM— May also be made with 
an equal quantity of the "cream fritter" mix- 
ture above and the preceding recipe. The ends 
and sides of the molds may be previously decor- 
ated with fruits, and the ornamental top of the 
mold with plain sweetened cream flavored and 
colored, set with gelatine; also the cream be- 
fore being poured into the molds may have 
candied peels, seedless raisins, pistachio nuis, 
almonds, marmalades, stewed and fresh fruits, 
pieces of wine jelly, etc. stirred in. The flavor- 
ings used are different syrups, liqueurs, es- 
sences, etc; also coffee, tea and chocolate. 

ICE CREAM — There are two ways of making it, 
the best being made of pure cream sweetened 
and flavored, then strained into a freezer and 
frozen. The other way is to boil milk and 
sugar, thicken it with a liaison of egg yolks and 
cream, or cornstarch, then with eggs, or milk 
and eggs, thus forming a frozen custard (but 
which is called ice cream); again, others thick- 
en or stiffen boiling milk with gelatine, Irish 
moss, etc., then flavor and freeze. . . All tne 
different kinds of ice cream seen on "bills of 
fare" have either of the foregoing as a basis, 

. the flavors, colors, shapes, etc. given after- 
wards. 

CREAM OF TARTAR— A most valuable ingred- 
ient of baking powders. It is also, for feverish 
people, one of the most perfeci of blood coolers 
when made into a drink as follows: Grate the 
rinds of three lemons and add the juice of them 
to a cupful of granulated sugar and three des- 
sert spoonfuls of cream of tartar; on this pour 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



three quarts of boiling water, allow to cool, 
strain, and it is ready for drinking. 
CRECY — The name of a French city, celebrated 
for its carrots grown in the neighborhood. A 
soup is named after it, hence we have " Puree 
Crecy" which is puree of carrots. 

CREPES- The French word for a kind of pan- 
cake, much used on festival occasions by the 
Latin race. 

CREPINETTES— Small, flat sausages of various 
delicate morsels, wrapped in pigs caul; it is a 
French term, caul being called " Crepine " in 
French. 

CRESS — Called by the French "cresson" hence, 
dishes seen on "bills of fare" with the attach- 
ment "au cresson" are garnished with cress, 
watercress being generally used. Besides being 
a handsome garniture, it makes a fine salad, 
eaten plain or with a sprinkling of salt, or with 
a little salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar. 
Watercress canapes are made of finely minced 
watercress worked into fresh butter, and then 
spread on thin slices of graham bread. 

CROMESKIES — Also spelled "kromeskies" are 
a sort of fritter made of fish, flesh, game and 
fowl. The meats are made into a form of sal- 
picon or croquette mixture, when cold formed 
into cork shapes, then either rolled in a thin 
short paste, or fritter batter, fried crisp, garn- 
ished, sauced and served. An oyster cromesky 
is an oyster dried with a cloth, wrapped with a 
a thin slice of parboiled bacon, pinned with a 
toothp ; ck, dipped in batter and fried; when 
cooked, the toothpick removed before serving- 

CROQUETTES — A mince of some cooked food, 
such as beef, lamb, mutton, veal, pork, sweet- 
breads, lobster, ham, all kinds of game, poultry 
etc., blended with a high seasoning, and a sauce 
to bind it with; when cold, it is made into 
forms, such as cones, rolls, balls, cutlets, etd 
rolled in flour, then breaded, fried in hot fat a 
golden color; served with sauces and garnitures 
that are appropriate to the food used. 

CROUSTADES-Are .hollow crusts made with 
bread, pastry, or a mixture of flour, eggs and 
watergrain; they are used as receptacles for 
savories and sweets, such as oysters, oyster 
crabs, lobster, frogs, terrapin, sweetbreads, 
lamb, chicken livers, fresh mushrooms, all 
kinds of garnitures, macedoine of vegetables, 
green peas; also sherbets, frozen punches, 
whipped cream, ice cream forms, fruit and 
wine jellies, etc. 

CROUTE-AU-POT— Is literally crust in pot cr 
soup. It is a broth containing slices of carrot 
turnip, cabbage, and pieces of toast, the broth 
is generally made from roast meat bones with a 
piece of bacon or ham knuckle thrown in. 

CROUTONS — As the word is used in a culinary 
sense, are pieces of bread cut in the size and 



71 

shape of dice, fried in hot fat, or browned in 
the oven, to serve with soup; or slices of bread 
cut into block forms and fried, used to support 
small birds, etc.; or slices of bread cut into 
fancy shapes and fried, then used to garnish 
hashes, minces, etc ; also used in connection 
with shapes cut or stamped out of aspic jelly' 
used to garnish salads and cold decorated foods. 
CUCUMBERS— Are a vegetable fruit that is fav- 
orably received by the majority of guests, eaten 
plain with a seasoning of salt, pepper, and a lit- 
tle grated onion to offset the bilious effects. 
CREAMED CUCUMBERS — Peeled, cut in 
slices }4 i ncn thick, steamed for a few minutes, 
then put into a Bechamel sauce, simmered till 
done; served either as a garnish or vegetable. 
GLAZED CUCUMBERS ON TOAST— Peeled, 
cut in slices % inch thick, boiled till tender in 
salted water, taken up and drained, then dipped 
in hot glaze; served overlapping each other on 
a slice of buttered toast. 
FRICASSEE OF CUCUMBERS— Peeled, cut 
lengthwise in finger lengths, then simmered in 
clear broth with a little sugar till tender, taken 
up and drained, then placed into Hollandaise 
sauce sharp with either lemon juice or white 
wine vinegar, to which has been added a sea- 
soning of Worcestershire sauce. 
BLANQUETTE OF CUCUMBERS — Peeled, 
cut in slices % inch thick; steamed; then placed 
in a rich Veloute sauce, simmered; served in 
the centre of a border of green peas. 
STUFFED CUCUMBERS WITH FORCE- 
MEAT— Peeled, cut in slices an inch thick, 
cored, steamed, dipped into Veloute sauce, ar- 
ranged on hot toast, the tops sprinkled with 
parsley dust, the holes then filled from a forc- 
ing bag and tube with a rich forcemeat of what- 
ever is on hand. 
CURRIED CUCUMBERS— Cucumbers peeled 
and cored, cut into two-inch lengths, stuffed 
with mutton forcemeat, rolled in flour, quickly 
fried in butter, then arranged in a sautoir, cov- 
ered with curry sauce, simmered till tender; 
served with grains of boiled rice. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS WITH MARROW— Cu- 
cumbers peeled and cored; marrow bones sawn 
into two-inch lengths and the marrow removed; 
cucumbers cut into two-inch lengths; both are 
then steamed for a few minutes, marrow then 
rolled into minced chives, chervil, tarragon and 
shallots, and inserted into the cucumber, which 
is then breaded and fried; served with cucum- 
ber sauce. 

PUREE OF CUCUMBERS— Cucumbers peeled, 
then parboiled in boiling salted water, taken up 
and drained, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, simmered in clarified butter, 
little more flour added to form a roux, moist- 
ened with boiling milk, boiled up, the whole 



72 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



then passed through a puree sieve; if to be used 
for soup, it is thinned to the desired consis- 
tency with equal parts of white stock and milk, 
and seasoned with nutmeg and sugar. 

CUCUMBER SALAD — Sliced cucumbers steeped 
in salted water and ice for an hour, then 
drained, dished up alternately with slices of 
pickled beet and quartered hard boiled eggs, 
dressed with oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. 

CUCUMBER AND ONION SALAD— Sliced 
cucumbers steeped in salted ice water for an 
hour, a few spring onions also sliced; cucum- 
bers drained, then mixed with the onions; 
served with salad cream dressing. 

CUCUMBERS, FRENCH STYLE— Slice the 
cucumbers very thin, steep them in salted water 
for several hours, then drain and mix with 
French dressing containing some chopped tar- 
ragon; serve on a crisp leaf of lettuce. 

CUCUMBER KETCHUP— Large cucumbers 
peeled and cored, then grated; to each gallon of 
pulp after being drained, is mixed half a gallon 
of cider vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of red pep- 
per, eight teaspoonfuls of salt, and one pint of 
fresh grated horseradish; when thoroughly in- 
corporated it is bottled and sealed. 

PICKLED CUCUMBERS— Small pickling cu- 
cumbers select and firm, well washed and wiped; 
take 400 of them and put them in crocks; make 
a boiling brine strong enough to float a potato 
the size of an egg, pour it over them at boiling 
point and let them stand for 24 hours, then re- 
move, wipe, and put into clean crocks and cover 
with hot vinegar spiced with cloves, mace, onion, 
and a % pound of mustard seed. 

CUMIN — Name of a seed used in Europe as a 
flavoring for stews, in cheeses, and by the Ger- 
mans in bread. 

CURACOA — Name of a liqueur made from bitter 
orange peel; in cookery is used as a flavoring to 
sweet sauces, creams, jellies, and blanc-manges. 

CURD — Is the basis of cheese; the solid part 
of milk; used by confectioners in producing 
cheese cakes, blanc-manges, curds and whey, 
curd pudding, curd puffs, etc. 

CURRANTS — Are of three colors and flavors 
red, white and black; they all make good pies; 
the white and red are also cooked in syrup, 
bottled, and named "Bar-le-duc" jelly; the black 
make fine jams and jellies, wine, vinegar, gin. 

DRIED CURRANTS— Are a different variety, a 
sort of small seedless grape that grows wild in 
parts of Greece; they are ripened on the vine, 
then picked and packed into barrels, forming 
a solid mass, and exported all over the world; 
they are used in puddings, mince-meat, sauces, 
pickles, dumplings, cakes, buns, pancakes, and 
also made into a cheap wine. 



CURRY — Name of a yellow powder composed gen- 
erally of turmeric, coriander seeds, cardamons, 
cumin seeds, red pepper, ginger, garlic, chillies, 
cinnamon and black pepper; used in making 
mulligatawney soups, and in flavoring food 
sauces that are called curries. 

CURING — By a safe and simple method applica- 
ble to country hotels and small institutions, of 
hams and bacon. The conditions under which 
the curing of bacon may be conducted success- 
fully is a uniform coolness in cellar, a uniform 
strength of pickle, thorough cleanliness, the 
cellar temperature should not exceed 50 degrees 
F. Bacon is cured by simply rubbing the sides 
with powdered salt to which has been added a 
little saltpetre, then placing on the cellar floor; 
they are then covered with salt to which has 
been added 5 per cent, of saltpetre, and al- 
lowed to lie for a week. The salt is then re- 
moved, and the sides turned, rubbed again with 
salt, saltpetre and a little sugar, and allowed to 
lie covered with a fresh quantity of salt and 
saltpetre for another week; the salt is then all 
removed, and the sides are either hung up to 
dry, or allowed to lie in the cellar for another 
week, after which the bacon is ready in the 
"green state" ; or it may then be smoked. 
The best smoking materials are oak dust, oak 
chips, peat, wheat straw, ash dust, or chips of 
other hard woods; the two of greatest value 
are the oak dust and peat, each imparting a 
characteristic flavor. The word sides is used 
allowing for whole halves of the bacon hog; but 
if bellies alone are required, the process is the 
same. 

CUSTARD — Name applied to a mixture of eggs, 
milk and sugar, mixed together, then baked, 
steamed or boiled. The best proportion is: to 
each quart of milk, work id. eight beaten eggs, 
six ounces of sugar, then flavor; or the milk 
may be boiled with a flavoring, then allowed to 
cool; the custard to be in perfect condition 
must only be allowed to reach the boiling or 
settling point, as if allowed to cook longer it 
will disintegrate and become watery. 

CUTLETS — Are really rib chops of lamb, pork, 
mutton and veal, but the term is also applied to 
neatly trimmed slices of the same meats; also 
to a slice cut an inch thick right across the 
middle of a leg of mutton; the term is also ap- 
plied to breasts of chicken, game and poultry; 
imitation cutlets are also made of croquette 
mixtures shaped into rib chop form. 

CZARINA — Name of a Russian sauce often 
served in that country with boiled tongue. It 
is composed of a good Espagnole sauce contain- 
ing minced gherkins, seedless raisins and lemon 
juice, simmered till the raisins are soft. 

DAMSON — The name of a peculiar flavored small 
blue plum that if eaten raw would contract the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



73 



jaws; it is therefore always served in a cooked 
condition, in which form it is rich and delicious; 
it makes a fine preserve, jam, jelly, wine, com- 
pote, pudding, pie and tartlette. 

DANDELION— Or as the French call it "dent- 
de-lion" dent meaning tooth, inasmuch as its 
pecuilar shaped leaves resemble lions' teeth. It 
makes a very pleasant salad, either by itself or 
mixed with other salad leaves. The leaves 
should be gathered before the sun is strong 
enough to toughen them. The most simple way 
of serving and that mostly liked, is dandelion 
leaves with French dressing; dandelion leaves 
and sorrel in equal parts, the dandelion cooked 
half done before the sorrel leaves are added; 
is used as a vegetable by the French. 

DARIOLES— The name of a small plain or fluted 
mold, these are lined with thin paste, then filled 
with a cheese cake mixture, sweet custard mix- 
ture or whipped cream, turned out when done, 
and served like a small charlotte russe. 

DARNE — Name sometimes seen on "bills of fare." 
It is the French word for slice, and is generally 
used in the term "Darne de sauraon" which is 
a salmon steak. 

D'ARTOIS — Is the name given to a certain kind 
of cake made with puff paste and marmalade; 
also in meat cookery to a sheet of puff paste 
spread with a salpicon of fish forcemeat, cray- 
fish tails, eel livers, oysters and mushrooms, 
another sheet is laid on top, edges pinched to- 
gether, brushed over with egg wash, baked; 
served in slices twice as long as wide, on a folded 
napkin. 

DATES— The fruit of the palm tree; the fruit in 
its green state is like a soft green pulp; when 
the tree is in flower, the native Arabs bore into 
the stem and draw the sap, which they call 
palm milk, and ferment it into wine, much the 
same as we draw the syrup from the maple tree 
and convert it into sugar. Dates may be sub- 
stituted for figs in cakes. They make a pretty 
show on the fruit stand with slices of angelica; 
also opened and the stone removed, and in its 
place a piece of walnut, the date then rolled in 
powdered sugar. 

DATE PUDDING— One pound of chopped beef 
suet, % pound of stoned dates, 14 ounces of 
grated bread, 1% ounces of baking powder, 12 
ounces of flour, one grated nutmeg, two eggs 
and enough milk to make a medium mixture, 
poured into molds, steamed three hours; served 
with wine sauce. 

DAUBE — Name given to a strong meat seasoning 
of salt, powdered herbs, pepper and spices; 
used to roll strips of larding pork in prior to in- 
serting. The meat larded and daubed is named 
"beef a la daube." 

DAUPHINE — A French term applied to a cake 
of the doughnut variety that has jelly in the 



centre; sometimes called "Berlin pancakes" or 
"brioche fritters"; " a la Dauphine" is used by 
some cooks when decorating food with dauphine 
cakes. 

DEMI-GLAZE — Is half glaze, or glaze mixed to 
form a bright jellied gravy. 

DEVILS — Devilled fish, meat, bones, etc., such 
as pork spareribs, ham, lobster meat, sardines, 
kidneys, boned legs of cooked poultry, salmon 
steaks, etc., are the articles highly seasoned, or 
spread with a highly seasoned paste, then broiled 
and served with or without a pungent sauce ap- 
propriate to the food. 

DIABLOTINS— The French term for small balls 
of sweetmeats generally composed of almond 
paste, rice paste, and grated orange peel, made 
into balls, fried in very hot lard, drained, then 
rolled in flavored powdered sugar; also balls of 
the mixture given for cheesestraws with an egg 
yolk added, then floured and fried, taken up and 
rolled in grated cheese. 

DIAMOND BACK— Name of the terrapin that 
inhabits the salt marshes of the Chesapeake, 
and is generally sold by the inch, 7 to 8 inches 
being in the best of condition, and bringing the 
highest price, from $6 to $10 each. 

DIGESTION — Is something that every cook 
should study. Foods cooked in different ways, 
digest in different times, the following table is 
medically correct. 

A TABLE SHOWING THE TIME REQUIRED 

TO DIGEST THE DIFFERENT FOODS 

WHEN COOKED IN DIFFERENT 

WAYS. 

£ a 

w 3 

Pork steak broiled 3-15 

" fat and lean roasted 5-15 

" recently salted raw 3-00 

" " stewed 3-00 

" " broiled 3-15 

" " " fried 4-15 

" " " boiled 4-30 

Turkey, wild roasted 2-18 

" tame " 2-30 

" " boiled 2-25 

Goose roasted 2-30 

Chickens, full grown fricasseed 2-45 

Fowls, domestic boiled 4-00 

roasted 4-00 

Ducks, tame roasted 4-00 

wild roasted 4-30 

Soup, barley boiled 1-30 

" bean " 3-00 

chicken " 3-30 

" mutton " 3-30 

" oyster " 3-30 

" beef, vegetables and bread.. " 4-00 

marrowbones '• 4-10 

Pig's feet, soused " 1-00 

Tripe " 1-00 

Brains, animal " 1-45 

Spinal marrow, animal ■' 2-40 

Liver, (beef), fresh broiled 2-00 



74 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

Heart, (animal) fried 4 00 them in a sautoir, pour over some rich chicken 

Cartilage boiled 4-15 stock and a little melted butter, place the cover 

Tendon 5-5° on and reauce t a glaze, arrange a little rissoto 

Hash, meat and vegetables warmed 2-30 at each en d of the serving dish, place the dolmas 

Sausage, fresh broiled 3-20 * • ** 

„ , .. „ ~ in the centre and pour the glaze over. 

Gelatine 2-30 r t> 

Cheese, old, strong raw 3-30 DOUGHBIRDS — Are plentiful on the coasts; 

Green corn boiled 3-^5 they are about i*4 pounds in weight, when 

" beans " 3~4S in prime condition, have a bill like a snipe, are 

Beans, pod 2-30 delicious eating broiled, roasted or in a salmis. 

P arsni P s " In j l~f DUCKS AND DUCKLINGS— That is the domes- 
Potatoes roamed 2-30 

11 baked 2-30 tic ones, are in season all the year round, the 

• < boiled 2-30 duckling being in its best form about June. 

Cabbage raw 2-30 BOILED DUCK, PARSLEY SAUCE— Ducks 

" wiih vinegar " 2-00 singed and drawn, second joint of wings and 

boiled 4-3° feet removed, washed, filled with a stuffing of 

Carrots 3 3 ^ ry breadcrumbs mixed with salt, pepper, 

turnips, white ^ 3 3 chopped parsley, nutmeg and grated lemon rind, 

' kol , . _ .. trussed, then simmered till tender in seasoned 

Bread, corn baked 3-15 

Bread, wheat, fresh " 3-30 whlte stock; served Wlth Parsley sauce. 

Apples, sweet, mellow raw 1-30 BONED STUFFED DUCK WITH ASPIC— 

sour, " " 2-00 Two ducks singed, split down the backs, boned, 

hard " 2-50 laid out flat, skin side down, seasoned with salt, 

Milk boiled 2-00 pepper and nutmeg, one of them spread with 

11 raw 2—1^ * 

u 3 forcemeat, the meat of the other placed on top, 

s t f ' 1( ' whinned 1-30 s ^ in tnen Qrawn together, sewn, then either 

roasted 2-15 roasted or braised till tender, taken up, pressed 

,, ,, soft boiled 3-00 between two boards till cold, trimmed and 

• < hard " 3-30 glazed; served in slices with aspic. 

tried 3-30 ROAST DUCK, ORANGE SAUCE— Ducks 

Custard baked 2-45 singed and drawn; filled with a stuffing made of 

Codfish, cured (dr j) boiled 2-00 , breadcrumbs, blanched minced onions, 

Trout, salmon (fresh) " 1-30 , * , . . 

,1 1 11 11 fried i-^o chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a 

Bass, striped " ...... ...... !. broiled 3-00 sour a PP le grated; truss, steam till firm and 

Flounder " fried 3-30 plump (about half an hour) then roast and baste 

Catfish " " 3-30 till brown and tender; served with sauce made 

Salmon, salted boiled 4-00 of finely minced onion and bacon fried slowly 

Oysters, fresh raw 2-55 till tender; add them to a rich poultry gravy 

" roasted 3-15 containing port wine and the grated rind and 

" , l ievf . e * 3-,o juice of an orange. 

Venison, steak broiled 1-35 ' b 

Pig (suckling) roasted 2-30 ROAST DUCK WITH PEAS, HANOVER 

Lamb, fresh broiled 2-30 SAUCE — Ducks singed, drawn and washed, 

Beef, fresh, lean, (dr> ) roasted 3-33 filled with a stuffing made of dry breadcrumbs, 

Beef (with mustard) boiled 3-10 minced fried onions and bacon, also the heart 

Beef (with salt only) " 3-36 anc l liver of the ducks, chopped parsley, salt, 

Beef ' tried 4-00 pepper and sage; truss, steam half an hour, 

Beef, fresh, lean, (rare) roasted 3-00 then rQast and ba _ te m brQwn and tend 

Beefsteak broiled 3-00 

., „ , . ,, _ _. serve with green peas at one end of the dish 

Mutton, fresh 3-°° , TX b r , 

,, ,, .boiled 3-00 ano - Hanover sauce at the other, made as fol- 

11 .. ; roasted 3-15 lows: poultry livers boiled, then rubbed through 

Veal " '• broiled 4-00 a sieve, added to a Veloute or cream sauce, sea- 

" " fried 4-30 soned with lemon juice and Cayenne pepper. 

DINDON— Is the French word for turkey; "din- BROILED DUCKLING WITH DEVILLED 

donneaux" is the French word for the spring BUTTER — Duckling singed, second joint of 

turkey used for broiling, weighing 4 to 6 pounds. wing removed, split down the back, drawn, 

DOLMAS — A term applied to leaves of cabbage breastbone removed, laid out flat, seasoned with 

parboiled, containing balls of forcemeat, and salt and pepper, slowly grilled till done and 

served generally with rissoto. Take 50 cabbage brown; served on a slice of toast, with devilled 

leaves, boil them for ten minutes, drain, make butter spread over the bird, garnish with cress 

50 balls of forcemeat size of a walnut, place in and lemon * * * * Devilled butter; to each four 

centre of the leaf, wrap the leaf around, arrange ounces of butter work in a level teaspoonful of 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



75 



Cayenne pepper and half a teaspoonful of black, 
% of a teaspoonful each of ground ginger and 
curry powder, and a little finely chopped chervil 
or parsley. 

SAUTE OF DUCK WITH OLIVES— Ducks 
singed, drawn, washed and steamed for half an 
hour, taken up, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
brushed with melted butter, then rolled in flour, 
quickly browned and basted in hot oven, taken 
up, cut into portions; little minced onion lightly 
fried in butter, flour added to form a roux, 
moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and 
skimmed, ducks then added, also halves of 
stoned olives, simmered till ducks are tender, 
sauce seasoned and finished with little orange 
juice and port wine; served garnished with 
croutons. 

STEWED DUCKS WITH GREEN PEAS— 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, lightly but 
quickly browned in oven, taken up and cut in 
portions, small pieces of bacon fried with some 
small cut spring onions; when brown, flour 
added to form a roux, moistened with poultry 
stock, boiled up and skimmed, ducks then added, 
with a few sprigs of green mint, simmered till 
tender, mint removed, seasoned with salt and 
pepper; served with a crouton at ends of dish, 
green peas at sides. 

BRAISED DUCK WITH VEGETABLES— 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, brasiere lined 
with thin slices of fat bacon, on which is placed 
slices of onion and turnip, carrot and pieces of 
celery, a few cloves, bay leaves, whole peppers 
and some sage leaves; ducks arranged on top 
moistened with white stock and the juice of a 
lemon with its grated rind, lid put on, braised 
and basted in oven till brown and tender, ducks 
then taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, 
poured over the ducks in serving pan; Julienne 
vegetables sauteed and seasoned; served, por- 
tions of duck with sauce over, garnished with 
croutons at ends of dish and the Julienne vege- 
tables at the sides. 

SALMIS OF DUCK IN CROUSTADE— Neat 
shaped slices of cold duck made hot in a chick 
Madeira sauce, to which is added slices of mush- 
rooms and callops of salt pork that have been 
fried together, the sauce to be seasoned with 
powdered sage and orange juice; served in paste 
croustade cases, on lace paper. 

SALMIS OF DUCK WITH FRIED HOMINY 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, floured, roasted and basted 
till brown and frothy, taken up and cut into por- 
tions; in the meantime the trimmings of the 
birds are sauteed in olive oil with minced shall 
lots, chives, thyme and bay leaves, then moist- 
ened with white wine and reduced; equal quan- 
tities of Bigarade and Espagnole sauce then 
added with a few minced mushrooms, the whole 
boiled up and skimmed; poured through a 



strainer over the ducks in another sautoir, sim- 
mered till tender; served garnished with slices 
of fried hominy. 

SAUTE Ob DUCK WITH CHESTNUTS— 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, steamed for 
half an hour, then cut into joints, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, powdered sage and thyme, 
rolled in flour, fried brown with bacon fat, taken 
up and drained, then put into a brown sauce to- 
gether with the minced giblets and some roasted 
and peeled chestnuts, simmer till tender, finish 
with port wine; served garnished with the chest- 
nuts and a fancy crouton. 

SALPICON OF DUCK IN CASES— Cold braised 
duck and some of the sauce, the duck cut into 
small neat pieces with a few mushrooms, re- 
heated in the sauce; served in fancy paper 
cases on lace paper. 

CURRY OF DUCK WITH RICE— Ducks singed, 
drawn and washed, steamed for half an hour, 
taken up, jointed, rubbed with curry powder, 
rolled in flour; onions sliced and fried a light 
brown in butter, taken up, joints then fried in 
the same butter, onions then returned, flour 
added, shook together, moistened with poultry 
stock, seasoned with salt, pepper, curry powder 
grated green apple, the juice and grated rind of 
an orange, simmered till tender, duck then 
taken up into another saucepan, the sauce 
strained over it; served garnished with small 
molds of dry boiled rice. 

STEWED DUCK WITH TURNIPS — Ducks 
singed, drawn and washed, steamed for half an 
hour, taken up, rolled in flour, fried whole in 
butter, taken up and cut into portions; large 
balls of turnip fried in butter, taken up and 
placed with the duck; in the remaining butter 
is then fried some minced shallots with sage 
and thyme leaves, flour added to form a roux, 
moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and 
skimmed, strained over the ducks and turnips, 
which are then simmered till tender; served 
garnished with the turnips and croutons. 

BRAISED DUCK WITH SAUERKRAUT — 
Ducks singed, drawn and washed, then trussed, 
arranged in brasiere with carrots, onion stuck 
with cloves, celery and parsley, moistened with 
seasoned white stock, covered with buttered 
paper, lid put on, braised till tender and glazy, 
taken up, braise strained and skimmed, ducks 
cut into portions and the braise strained over 
them. Sauerkraut well washed, put in a sautoir 
with a piece of bacon, a piece of small bologna, 
carrot, onion and parsley, moistened with some 
fat and broth from the stock pot, stewed slowly 
for two hours, then taken up and drained; vege- 
tables thrown away, bacon and sausage cut in 
slices; served, portions of duck flanked with the 
the kraut and garnished with the bacon and 
sausage. 



7 6 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



FILLETS OF DUCKLING, MACEDOINE— 
Ducklings singed, drawn and washed, then 
steamed for ten minutes to plump them, taken 
up, cooled, cut into four fillets, the backbones 
then roasted with vegetables; when brown, 
moistened with Bigarade sauce, boiled up and 
strained over a cooked macedoine of vegetables, 
the fillets seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered 
sage and thyme, rolled in flour, arranged in 
buttered baking pan, roasted and basted till 
brown and frothy; served on a crouton garnished 
with the macedoine in sauce. 

FRIED FILLETS OF DUCKLING, SAUCE 
BIGARADE — Ducklings prepared as in the pre- 
ceding, but instead of roasting, fried a golden 
color with butter; served on toast with Bigarade 
sauce poured over, garnished with watercress. 

ROAST SPRING DUCK, APPLE SAUCE — 
Young ducks singed, drawn, washed and trussed, 
steamed for five minutes, taken up, seasoned, 
rolled in flour, arranged in baking pan, roasted 
and basted till done; served in portions with 
unsweetened stewed apples that have been 
rubbed through a sieve. 

STUFFED DUCKLING, ORANGE SAUCE— 
Ducklings singed, drawn, washed, filled with a 
stuffing composed of fresh grated breadcrumbs, 
grated apple and lemon rind, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a little sage f 
trussed, then steamed for ten minutes, arranged 
in a baking pan, dredged with flour, roasted 
and basted till done; served with a brown sauce 
made in the pan they were roasted in, flavored 
with grated sour orange rind and its juice. 

SAUTE OF DUCK WITH NOODLES— Ducks 
singed, drawn, washed and trussed, steamed 
for half an hour, taken up and cut into portions, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered sage, 
rolled in flour, fried in butter, placed iu a 
sautoir, dredged with flour, moistened with thin 
Bigarade sauce, simmered \ ill tender; noodles 
boiled till done, taken up and drained, then 
mixed with a little minced chervil, and the 
ducks' giblets minced and sauteed; served, the 
duck in portions flanked with the noodles. 

STEWED DUCK WITH STUFFED TOMA- 
TOES — Ducks singed, drawn and washed, 
filled with a stuffing composed of grated bread- 
crumbs mixed with minced ham, mushrooms, 
anchovies, shallot, parsley, salt and pepper, 
trussed, steamed for ten minutes, arranged in 
sautoir, moistened with stock and white wine, 
lid put on, simmered till done; served with the 
stuffing under each portion, garnished with 
stuffed small tomatoes, tomato sauce poured 
around. 

STEWED DUCK WITH PUREE OF PEAS— 
Ducks singed, drawn, washed and trussed, 
stewed till tender in white stock containing a 
few cloves, a clove of garlic, onion, thyme, 



parsley and bay leaves; v/hen tender, taken up 
and cut into portions, the broth reduced to a 
half glaze with the addition of some Veloute 
sauce, dried green peas boiled with a few sprigs 
of mint and a little sugar; when done, rubbed 
through a sieve, then mixed to a stiff consist- 
ency with the reduced sauce; serve the duck 
in portions masked with the peas puree. 

STUFFED DUCK, ITALIAN SAUCE— Ducks 
singed, drawn, washed, filled with a mixture of 
breadcrumbs mixed with small pieces of fried 
liver and bacon, thyme, truffles, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and powdered sage, bound with 
egg yolks, trussed, steamed for half an hour, 
taken up, rolled in flour, arranged in buttered 
baking pan, roasted and basted till tender; 
served in portions with the stuffing under, and 
Italian sauce (brown) poured over. 

SCALLOPED DUCKS' LIVERS— Livers sliced, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed spices, 
sauteed in butter with a few minced shallots 
and mushrooms, chopped parsley and a minced 
clove of garlic, pour off the remaining butter, 
add a few grated breadcrumbs, moisten lightly 
with Bigarade sauce, fill into deep oval or scal- 
lop dishes or shells, sprinkle with sifted 
crumbs, baste with butter, brown off the top 
and serve. 

BROCHETTE OF DUCKS' LIVERS- Livers 
sliced, seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed 
spices, lightly sauteed with butter, then run on 
a skewer alternately with thin slices of par- 
boiled bacon; when skewer is full, rolled in 
melted butter, then in sifted breadcrumbs, 
broiled till done; served on a strip of toast 
with Hanover sauce at the sides, garnished 
with cress and lemon. 

STEWED DUCKS' GIBLETS IN BORDER- - 
Livers and hearts sliced and sauteed with but- 
ter, gizzards sliced and simmered in white 
seasoned stock till tender, then taken up and 
drained; hearts, livers and gizzards then mixed 
into a mushroom sauce; simmered till done; 
fancy border of mashed potatoes arranged on 
serving dish one inch from the edge, giblets 
placed in the centre, with green peas around 
the potatoes. 

DUCKS' GIBLET SOUP- Made the same as 
chicken giblet soup (which see) substituting the 
ducks' giblets. 

D'UXELLES — Name of a very thick sauce gen- 
erally used to coat cutlets before breading 
them, composed of l /- each chopped parsley 
and minced fried shallots and l / 2 minced sau- 
teed mushooms, all worked into a thick Veloute' 
sauce; or instead of l / 2 minced mushrooms, % 
need only be used and the other % be minced 
cooked ham or tongue. 

DUTCH SAUCE— Another name for Hollan- 
daise sauce, which is made by taking half a 



ihe culinary handbook. 



77 



cupful of white sauce and working into it a 
small piece of glace, half a cupful of melted 
butter, 6 yolks of eggs, bringing it slowly to a 
custard-like thickness over a medium fire, then 
seasoning it with salt, nutmeg and lemon juice. 

ECARLATE — A French term often seen on bills 
of fare as "a l'ecarlate. It is used to signify 
that the food is red, and its natural color pre- 
served. 

ECLAIRS — A hollow form made of "choux- 
paste" that is filled with pastry cream, with the 
top generally coated with chocolate glaze. 

EELS — Are of two kinds, the river or fresh water 
eel, and the sea or conger eel. The flesh of 
the river eel is sweet, fine grained and dainty; 
that of the sea eel is coarse grained and oily; 
they must always be skinned before using: to 
do which a little silver sand is used to hold the 
the eel by the head. With a sharp knife make 
a circle round the neck, force down the skin an 
inch or so, and then with a steady pull the skin 
will strip off easily. 

STEWED EELS, LONDON STYLE— A most 
simple and dainty dish, made by cutting river 
eels into two-inch lengths, boiling them till 
done in a parsley butter sauce seasoned with 
salt, pepper and a little vinegar; served in soup 
plates with bread and butter. 

GRILLED EELS, LONDON STYLE— River 
eels skinned, coiled round and kept in shape 
with a small skewer, dipped into beaten eggs, 
then coated with a mixture of grated bread- 
crumbs, lemon rind, chopped parsley and 
thyme leaves, salt, pepper, nutmeg; broiled a 
golden color and served with horseradish, with 
the option of tartar sauce. 

BAKED EELS, LONDON STYLE— River eels 

skinned, coiled round, pinned into shape with 
a skewer, coated with D'Uxelles sauce, rolled 
in breadcrumbs, arranged in a buttered baking 
pan, the inside of the coil filled with a piping 
of fish forcemeat; brushed with butter, baked a 
golden brown; served with Admiral sauce. 

BOILED EELS, MAITRE D'HOTEL— River 
eels cut into finger lengths, boiled fifteen min- 
utes in salted water; served with a border of 
mashed potatoes, with some Maitre D'Hotel 
butter poured over the eels. 

ROAST EELS, ANCHOVY BUTTER— River 
eels skinned, coiled, fastened with skewers, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, wrapped in but- 
tered paper, roasted in medium oven till done, 
taken up, paper removed, spread with anchovy 
butter; served very hot with a sprig of parsley 
and slice of lemon inside the coiled eel. 

FRIED EELS, SHRIMP SAUCE— River eels 
skinned, cut into finger lengths; marinade them 
over night in a mixture of vinegar, grated lemon 
rind, salt, pepper and thyme, then taken up, 



drained, breaded, fried; served with shrimp 
sauce. 

MATELOTE OF EELS— River eels skinned, 
cut into finger lengths, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, rolled in flour, lightly fried in butter, 
taken up, add to the butter they are fried in 
some white or red wine, thyme, marjoram, fish 
stock, red pepper, a few cloves and minced 
shallots, rapidly reduce; then is added Veloute 
sauce, boiled up, skimmed, strained over the 
eels in another sautoir, finished by adding some 
button mushrooms, blanched oysters or mussels, 
and season with lemon juice; served garnished 
with fancy croutons. 

FRICASSEE OF EELS— River eels skinned, 
cut into finger lengths, put to boil in fish stock 
with a little white wine, an onion stuck with 
cloves, a few minced shallots, bunch of herbs, 
salt and whole peppers; when done, taken up 
into a sautoir, the liquor reduced, then strained 
into a thick Hollandaise sauce, containing 
chopped parsley; eels placed into the finished 
sauce; served with a garnish of fancy croutons. 

BROCHETTE OF EELS, TARTAR SAUCE— 
For recipe, see heading of Brochette. 

BRAISED EELS, ALLEMANDE SAUCE— 
River eels skinned and cut into finger lengths, 
sprinkled with salt, allowed to remain with the 
salt on for half an hour, then washed in cold 
water, drained, arranged in a sautoir with a 
little butter, parsley, whole peppers, slices of 
lemon, minced shallots, salt, pepper, nutmeg 
and a few slices of bacon, moistened with a lit- 
tle fish stock and braised till done, taken up in- 
to another sautoir, braise strained and skimmed, 
then mixed into Allemande sauce which is 
poured over the eels; served with them, garn- 
ished with croutons. 

BROILED BONED EELS— River eels skinned 
and cut into finger lengths, split down the back 
and the bone removed, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and nutmeg, dipped in beaten egg, then 
rolled in sifted breadcrumbs, seasoned with 
powdered herbs and pepper, broiled and basted 
till done; served on toast with anchovy butter, 
garnished with lemon. 

ORLY OF EELS— Prepared and boned as in 
the preceding, but instead of breading they are 
dipped in batter, fried, and served with rings of 
crisp fried onions. 

EEL SALAD — River eels skinned and boned, cut 
into short finger lengths, laid in salted water 
for an hour, then taken up and wiped dry, ar- 
ranged in baking pan, sprinkled with salt, pep- 
per and mixed ground spices, moistened with 
water and a little vinegar, adding a little dis- 
solved gelatine, bake till done and glazy; served 
cold masked with ravigote or tartar sauce, 
garnished with slices of cucumber. 



7« 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ROAST STUFFED CONGER EEL, ADMIRAL 
SAUCE — Portion cuts skinned and boned, 
laid for two hours in salted vinegar with 
chopped sweet herbs, taken up, filled with veal 
stuffing, tied round with string, rolled in flour, 
arranged in baking pan, roasted and basted till 
done; served with Admiral sauce. 

BOILED CONGER EEL, ALLEMANDE 
SAUCE — Portion cuts skinned and boned, tied 
round with string, blanched, then placed in 
sautoir with bay leaves, onions, parsley, whole 
peppers, little garlic, salt and vinegar; cover 
with water, simmered till done, taken up and 
drained; served with Allemande sauce, garn- 
ished with parsley and lemon. 

FRIED CONGER EEL, TARTAR SAUCE— 
Portion cuts skinned and boned, steamed for 
ten minutes, then seasoned with salt and pep- 
per, breaded, fried; served with Tartar sauce, 
garnished with parsley and lemon. 

CURRIED CONGER EEL WITH RICE— Por- 
tion cuts skinned and boned, marinaded for an 
hour in salt water and vinegar, taken up, 
rinsed in cold water, wiped dry, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried with but- 
ter, removed into a sautoir; minced onions, 
chives and a clove of garlic fried in the remain- 
ing butter, flour added to form a roux, moist- 
ened with fish stock, brought to the boil and 
skimmed, then simmered for half an hour; the 
eels sprinkled with curry powder, sauce 
strained over them, simmered till done, finished 
with cayenne pepper and lemon juice; served 
inside a border of dry boiled grains of rice. 

EEL-POUT — Is a combination of eel, catfish and 
some other kind of fish; breeds its young alive 
instead of with eggs; is more often called the 
' 'BURBOT". It is good boiled and served with 
oyster sauce. 

EGGS — That is, hen's eggs as most generally 
used in cookery (other birds eggs will be found 
under their respective headings) are very 
nutritious, easily digested, and are used in a 
multitude of ways, but the following recipes 
will be found to be those most applicable to 
ordinary hotel, restaurant and club patronage. 
[Inexperienced hotel butchers have spoiled 
much meat through their brine, by using the egg 
test for strength, the test being that when the 
brine will float an egg it is just right. If he 
used a potato the same size as an egg he would 
be more sure, for a new laid egg will sink to the 
bottom of a brine and stay there; while a bad 
egg will float and every day's age to the egg 
from the newly laid brings it more to the sur- 
face of the same strength of brine. MORAL: 
weigh and measure your salt, saltpetre and 
water] (see heading of brine). 

SHIRRED EGGS— Shirred egg dish buttered, 
eggs broken into it, two or three drops of clear 



melted butter dripped over the eggs, placed in 
oven till set. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS— Four-fifths broken eggs 
(not beaten), one fifth cream, seasoned with salt 
and little melted butter, ladleful (made to hold 
three eggs) poured into hot buttered frying pan, 
stirred about or shook till softly set; served 
either plain or on buttered toast. 

POACHED EGGS— Eggs removed from shell, 
dropped into simmering salted water contain- 
ing a dash of vinegar; when set, taken up 
drained; served plain or on buttered toast. 

CURRIED EGGS— Hard boiled eggs with their 
shells removed, reheated in a curry sauce made 
from poultry stock; bed of rice in centre 
of dish sprinkled with finely chopped parsley; 
with the back of a spoon indentures made to 
receive the eggs; served with the sauce poured 
around the base. 

STUFFED EGGS— Hard boiled eggs with their 
shells removed, split lengthwise, yolks removed 
and pounded with anchovy meat and butter, 
filled back into the whites, smoothed over, dec- 
orated and served. 

DEVILLED EGGS— Hard boiled eggs with their 
shells removed, split in halves lengthwise, 
dipped in beaten egg, then in oil, sprinkled with 
salt and red pepper, arranged in baking pan on 
a sheet of oiled paper, thoroughly heated; 
served on toast with sauce Diable poured over, 
into which has been mixed some Bengal chut- 
ney. 

MASKED EGGS, MADEIRA SAUCE— Hard 
boiled eggs with the shells removed, coated 
with chicken forcemeat, then dipped into beaten 
egg, baked; served with Madeira sauce poured 
over, garnished with fancy croutons. 

EGG RAREBIT— Hard boiled eggs with the 
shells removed, cut lengthwise in slices, ar- 
ranged on serving platter, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, covered with a mixture of grated 
cheese mixed with butter, browned off in oven; 
served very hot. 

MOLDED EGGS, PROVENCALE SAUCE— 
Timbale molds brushed with butter, bottoms 
sprinkled with minced fried shallots, eggs then 
broken in, a little Creole garniture placed 
en top. Baked till set, turned out on serving 
dish; served with Provencale sauce poured over 
and around. 

EGGS, AU GRATIN— Slices of hard boiled eggs 
in a gratin dish covered with white sauce, then 
sprinkled with cheese and sifted breadcrumbs, 
baked and served. 

EGG PATTIES— Small squares of hard boiled 
eggs mixed into a rich Supreme sauce with a 
few mushrooms, filled into hot puff paste patty 
shells. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



79 



SALPICON OF EGGS— Yolks and whites of eggs 
steamed separately till set; when cold, cut in 
slices, then stamped out with column cutter to- 
gether with tongue, truffles and mushrooms, 
the whole then mixed into a rich Veloute sauce; 
served garnished with fancy buttered toast. 

EGGS, INDIAN STYLE— Into a soubise sauce 
is worked enough curry powder to lightly color 
it, brought to a simmer, eggs poached in it; 
served on circular slices of toast with some 
sauce poured around. 

EGGS BREADED, CREOLE SAUCE— Eggs 
boiled five minutes, shelled, dipped in thick 
Hollandaise sauce, then in breadcrumbs, then 
breaded and fried; served with Creole sauce or 
garniture. 

EGGS WITH BROWN BUTTER— Eggs fried 
with plenty of butter that is hot enough to turn 
a nice brown color and froth up; when set, 
taken up on toast; to the frothing butter is then 
added a little tarragon vinegar, poured over the 
eggs and served immediately. 

FRICASSEE OF EGGS — Yolks and whites 
steamed separately till set; when cold scooped 
out with oval cutter, made hot in an onion 
cream sauce and served. 

EGGS WITH CAVIARE— Slices of hard boiled 
eggs on buttered toast, the yolk covered with 
caviare forced through a bag and star tube. 

EGGS IN C ROUST ADE— Whites and yolks of 
eggs steamed till set; when cold, cut in form of 
dice with equal quantities of ham, tongue and 
button mushrooms, reheated in Supreme sauce, 
filled into hot paste croustades and served. 

EGGS SCRAMBLED WITH TOMATOES— 
One cupful of minced onions, 12 medium sized 
tomatoes rubbed through a sieve, mixed, seas- 
oned with salt, pepper and butter, simmered 
till onion is done, 12 eggs then broken into the 
simmering mixture, tossed about till set; served 
in cases. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS IN CASES— Eggs beaten 
with minced green herbs, salt and pepper, 
scrambled with plenty of butter; served in 
fancy paper cases. 

EGGS WITH ONION PUREE— Slices of hot 
hard boiled eggs arranged around a centre of 
thick puree of onions in Veloute" sauce. 

OMELET WITH BACON— Plain or with Pi- 
quante sauce. Cut the bacon into small dice, 
fry fairly well done, pour off most of the fat, 
turn in the beaten eggs, mix and form. 

OMELET WITH VEAL KIDNEYS— Roasted 
kidneys cut in dice, and made hot in a little 
demi-glaze and chopped parsley. Enclose the 
mixture within the omelet; serve with a Madeira 
sauce poured around. 



OMELET WITH CEPES— Cut the cepes into 
dice; fry in butter for two or three minutes, 
pour off the butter, and pour in the omelet 
mixture; form and serve. 

OMELET WITH CHEESE— Mix grated cheese 
with the beaten eggs, in proportion of one-third 
cheese to two- thirds beaten eggs, form the ome- 
let, when placed on the serving dish sprinkle a 
little grated cheese on top of the omelet and 
brown off very quickly in a hot oven. 

OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS— Blanch 
the livers, then cut them into dice, fry them 
lightly in butter for ten minutes with some 
minced shallots and mushrooms, season with 
salt and pepper and add a little chopped pars- 
ley, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, and 
serve a little Hanover sauce at both ends of 
the omelet. 

OMELET WITH CHIPPED BEEF— Scald, 
drain, and mince the dried beef, mix it with 
the beaten eggs, and form the omelet, pour a 
little cream sauce around when serving. 

OMELET WITH HAM— Cooked minced ham 
made hot in Madeira sauce enclosed within the 
omelet. 

Raw minced ham with a little minced shallot 
and parsley fried till done, omelet mixture 
poured over it, formed and served. 

Minced fried ham beaten up with the eggs, 
poured into an omelet pan, formed and served. 

OMELET WITH LAMB KIDNEYS, au Madere 
— Cut the kidneys into small dice and fry them 
with minced shallots for three minutes, add a 
little Madeira sauce and chopped parsley, en- 
close a spoonful within the omelet and pour 
some of the sauce around. 

OMELET WITH SWEETBREADS — Cooked 
sweetbreads, cut in dice, simmered in mush- 
room sauce, a spoonful enclosed within the 
omelet and a little sauce poured around. 

OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS — If fresh 
mushrooms, peel, trim and cut into dice and 
fry. If canned, cut them in thin slices and fry; 
drain and mix them into Madeira sauce, enclose 
a spoonful in the omelet, serve with a spoonful 
of the mushrooms at each end of the dish. 

OMELET WITH SHRIMPS, MEXICAN 
STYLE — Take fresh or canned shrimps, cut 
in halves, mix with some finely chopped green 
peppers, put it into a Veloute sauce containing 
some lobster butter, simmer for five minutes, 
enclose a spoonful within the omelet, turn on 
to the serving dish, place two whole shrimps on 
top, and pour some of the sauce around. 

OMELET WITH FINE HERBS— Beat up with 
the eggs, some finely minced shallots, thyme, 
marjoram, chervil, chives and parsley, season 
with salt and pepper, form the omelet and serve. 



8o 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



SPANISH OMELET — Finely shred onions, 
minced green peppers, minced mushrooms, 
solid tomatoes cut in small pieces, the whole 
fried in butter for five minutes, then add some 
tomato sauce, season with salt and pepper, re- 
duce till thick, enclose a spoonful within the 
omelet; when on the serving dish, place a spoon- 
ful of the mixture at each end of the omelet and 
garnish the top with fancy strips of Pimentoes 
in oil. 

OMELET WITH PARSLEY— Mix some finely 
chopped parsley, pepper and salt with the beaten 
eggs, form and serve. 

OMELET WITH TOMATOES— Stew fresh or 
canned tomatoes with a little butter, sugar, salt 
and pepper to a thick pulp, enclose within the 
omelet, pour tomato sauce around, 

OMELET WITH TOMATOED RICE— Take 
some boiled rice, and moisten ii. with reduced 
tomato sauce, enclose within the omelet, and 
pour tomato sauce around, 

OMELET WITH OYSTERS— Scald the oysters, 
cut them in quarters, put them into a rich oyster 
sauce, enclose a spoonful within the omelet; 
when on the serving dish place three whole 
scalded oysters on top of the omelet, pour some 
oyster sauce over all, and sprinkle with parsley 
dust. 

OMELET WITH FRENCH PEAS — Simmer 
some French peas in reduced Veloute sauce till 
thick; place a spoonful within the omelet and a 
spoonful at each end of the omelet on the serv- 
ing dish, with cream sauce poured around. 

OMELET WITH EGG PLANT— Cut the egg 
plant inco dice, fry it in butter; when done add 
a little meat glaze, enclose within the omelet 
and pour some brown sauce around. 

OMELET WITH SPINACH— Beat some puree 
of spinach with the eggs, season with salt and 
pepper, form and serve. 

OMELET WITH SPRING VEGETABLES— 
Cut a jardiniere or macedoine of vegetables 
(or use canned macedoine), boil till tender, drain, 
moisten with a little demi-glaze or Supreme 
sauce, enclose within the omelet, and decorate 
the top of the omelet with the vegetables, pour 
some of the sauce used around. 

OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS POINTS — 
Take cooked asparagus points, make them hot 
in Allemande sauce, enclose within the omelet 
and pour some of the sauce around. 

OMELET WITH OLIVES— Take the olives, 
stone them, slice them into four slices, make 
them hot in Madeira sauce, enclose within the 
omelet, decorate the top of the omelet with 
slices of olives, and pour some Soubise sauce 
around. 

OMELET WITH MINCED CHICKEN— Take 
minced cooked chicken, moisten it with Veloute 



sauce, make hot, enclose within the omelet, 
serve with Veloute sauce poured around. 

CREOLE OMELET— Chopped green peppers, 
onions, garlic, okras and a little boiled rice, 
made hot in thick tomato sauce, enclosed within 
the omelet, and spoonfuls served at ends of the 
omelet on the dish. 

EGG PLANT, TURKISH STYLE— Peeled egg 
plant in slices, sprinkled with salt; after having 
laid a few minutes, wiped dry, then fried a 
golden color with butter; cold rare roast beef 
minced fine with a very little onion, mixed with 
a few slices of peeled tomatoes, chopped pars- 
ley, salt and pepper; stewed down thick, gratin 
dishes buttered, bottom covered with the egg 
plant, mince next, this covered with more egg 
plant, moistened with rich roast beef gravy, 
baked half an hour and served. 

FRIED EGG PLANT— Egg plant peeled, cut in 
slices, sprinkled with salt and allowed to marin- 
ade for an hour, then wiped dry, rolled in flour, 
dipped into beaten eggs, fried and served. 

BROILED EGG PLANT ON TOAST— Peeled 
egg plant cut in slices, sprinkled with salt and 
allowed to remain for an hour, then wiped dry, 
rolled in flour, then in melted butter, broiled 
and basted; served on buttered toast. 

STUFFED EGG PLANT— Small egg plant not 
peeled, cut in halves lengthwise, part of centre 
scooped out, the halves then fried on the cut 
side; the scooped out part mixed with some 
cooked salt pork, button mushrooms, minced 
shallots, chopped chives and parsley, filled into 
the openings, piled high, smoothed over and 
baked. 

EGG PLANT FRITTERS— Peeled egg plant cut 
In slices, laid for an hour well sprinkled with 
salt, then wiped dry, dipped in batter, slowly 
fried in hot fat; served plain as a vegetable or 
as an accompaniment to meat. 

EGG PLANT WITH CHEESE— Make "the 
broiled egg plant on toast" mentioned above; 
when finished and on the toast, cover it with a 
slice of cheese, place in hot oven till cheese is 
melted and browned; served at once. 

EGG PLANT STEWED— Peeled egg plant cut 
in pieces size of small eggs, cold roast beef or 
mutton cut in small pieces and mixed into a 
rich gravy with a minced onion and peeled to- 
matoes, brought to the boil, egg plant then put 
in, simmered till done, then served. 

ENDIVE— Also called CHICORY— Is cooked as 
a vegetable same as spinach; also made into 
salads, using the white leaves; dressed with 
French dressing. 

EPIGRAMME — A term used in cookery to denote 
one kind of meat served in two forms on the 

• same dish, such as, two chops, one breaded and 
fried, the other broiled; served resting on each 
other. See heading of respective meats. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ESPAGNOLE — Name of a stock sauce, used as 
a basis to form many of the brown sauces; 
made by frying in a thick bottomed large sauce- 
pan till brown, ham, veal and beef in meat and 
bones; carrots, onions, turnips, celery and pars- 
ley; flour then added to form a roux, moistened 
gradually with good brown stock, seasoned with 
thyme, savory, marjoram, bay leaves, cloves, 
whole peppers, and whole allspice; when boiled 
up, skimmed, then is added a liberal quantity 
of tomatoes, together with one or two old fowls 
or roast poultry carcasses, simmered slowly for 
several hours, strained, skimmed, finished with 
sherry wine. 

EXTRACTS — Or flavorings used in the making 
of ice creams, jellies, cakes, puddings, sweet 
sauces, etc., can be made much cheaper than 
buying at the stores and paying for fancy labels 
and bottles; the point is to obtain good oils and 
pure alcohol. 

EXTRACT OF CLOVES— 2 ozs. oil of cloves, 1 
pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF ANISEED— 1 oz. of oil of anise, 
1 pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF CINNAMON— 1 oz. oil of cinna- 
mon, 1 pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF BITTER ALMOND— 2 ozs. oil 
of bitter almond, 1 pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF LEMON— 2 ozs. oil of lemon, 1 
pint of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF WINTERGREEN— 1 oz. oil of 
wintergreen, 1 quart of alcohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF SARSAPARILLA— 1 oz. each of 
oils of sassafras and wintergreen, 1 quart of al- 
cohol, mix and use. 

EXTRACT OF VANILLA- 2 ozs. of vanilla 
beans, 6 ozs. of alcohol, 12 ozs. of water; cut 
the beans small and bruise them, put them 
in wide mouthed bottles, cover with the alco- 
hol and water, steep for two weeks, shaking it 
up every two days. 

FARINA — A fine granular preparation made from 
wheat. Of two kinds, white and graham, the lat- 
ter being used as a breakfast cereal, the former 
for paddings, quenelles and as a soup thicken- 
ing. 

BAKED FARINA PUDDING— 1 gallon of milk, 
1 pound of farina, }i of a pound of sugar, l / 2 a 
pound of butter, 5 whole and 6 yolks of eggs; 
made by boiling the milk and sugar together, 
then sprinkling in the farina, stirring continu- 
ally till smooth, simmered for % of an hour, 
then is added the beaten eggs and butter; flav- 
ored to taste; poured into buttered pudding 
pans, baked till set; served with a sweet or 
wine sauce, preserved fruit, or compote of 
stewed fruit. 

BOILED FARINA PUDDING — Generally 
served cold with sweetened or flavored cream, 



whipped cream, stewed fruit or fruit marma- 
lade; if after it is boiled it is poured into cups 
and set, they are called Farina cup custards. 
Made with l /i gallon of milk, y z pound of sugar, 
Yz pound of farina, j(ofa pound of butter and 
six yolks of eggs. 
FARINA FRITTERS— The above mixture when 
boiled is poured into a shallow pan brushed 
with butter; when cold and firm cut into slices, 
double breaded, fried, taken up and rolled in 
powdered sugar; served with fruit sauce. 
FENNEL — Name of a garden plant, esteemed as 
a flavoring to boiled salmon and mackerel; used 
in making "fennel sauce," which is the same as 
parsley sauce, simply substituting chopped 
fennel for parsley leaves. 
FIGS — As seen in our markets are both fresh and 
dried; the fresh are used in compotes and for 
preserves, the dried for cakes, puddings, ices, 
pastilles; also used as a dessert, either plain or 
rolled in powdered sugar. 
FINANCIERE — Name of both a sauce and garn- 
ish, much used; the sauce is composed as fol- 
lows: one pint of sherry wine with a chopped 
truffle and a seasoning of red pepper is rapidly 
boiled down to half its volume, then is added 
one pint of espagnole; boiled again for five 
minutes, then strained for use. For the garn- 
ish composition see heading of "garnishes." 
FINE HERBS— Called by the French "fines- 
herbes"; it is a combination of minced shallots, 
mushrooms and parsley. FINE HERBS 
SAUCE is the ingredients mixed into some 
espagnole or other brown sauce. 
FINNAN HADDIE — Is the name commercially 
given to smoked haddocks (see haddocks); they 
are imported to this country and sell generally 
at 10 cents per pound. 
BROILED FINNAN HADDIE— Skinned, soaked 
in warm water for half an hour, taken up and 
wiped dry, the backbone removed from the 
bone side, seasoned with pepper, brushed with 
butter, broiled and basted; served very hot 
with a sauce composed of melted butter, contain- 
ing lemon juice, mustard and chopped parsley. 
BOILED FINNAN HADDIE— Prepared as in 
the preceding, put to boil in cold water, (unless 
very thick three or four minutes boiling is suf- 
ficient) served with Maitre D'Hotel butter 
spread on the fish, garnished with parsley. 
BAKED FINNAN HADDIE— Prepared as for 
broiling, arranged in baking pan, moistened 
with milk and melted butter, quickly baked and 
basted; served with the sauce given for broiled. 
FINNAN HADDIE, DELMONICO STYLE— 
Prepared as for broiling, the fillets then arranged 
in a shallow sautoir, moistened with cream, 
boiled for five minutes, little Madeira wine 
then added, boiled up again, then is stirred in 



82 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



a liaison of egg yolks and cream; when thick- 
ened like thin custard a little more Madeira 
wine added; served very hot in a chafing dish. 

FLAGEOLETS — A green haricot bean put up in 
cans by the French and imported to this 
country; makes a very pleasing garnish, are 
cheap, the best being about $1.75 a dozen cans. 

FLANNEL CAKES— A sort of pancake; for 
recipe see heading of Batter. 

FLOUNDERS— A flat fish of the halibut species 
but much smaller, in plentiful supply, very 
often filleted, in fact generally used in this 
country for fillets of soles; the name flounder 
seldom appears on our bills of fare, hence its 
recipes will be found under that h2ading. 

FOIE-GRAS— Literally fat liver, is made by 
taking the livers of fat geese, cooking them 
with sweet herbs, wine and bacon, then pound- 
ing it, rubbing it through a fine sieve, the 
paste thus obtained being put away in small 
jars, very often mixed with truffles; it is used 
for sandwiches, garnishes, in croustades with 
aspic jelly; cut in pieces and mixed with button 
mushrooms in a rich sauce, then filled into 
scallop shells, gratinated, baked and served; 
also for lining game pies and patties; as a stuf- 
fing for small game birds, etc. 

FONDU — Is the name given by the French to a 
dish of eggs scrambled soft with grated cheese 
and butter; served very hot on toast, or filled 
into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top 
and served. 

FORCEMEAT — Name given to a highly seasoned 
mince that has been rubbed through a sieve; 
used in making quenelles, lining pies, etc. 

CHICKEN FORCEMEAT— Raw breast of chick- 
en with the skin removed, pounded, rubbed 
through a tamis mixed with a little cream and 
strained whites of raw eggs, seasoned with salt, 
red pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice. 

VEAL FORCEMEAT OR GODIVEAU— Equal 
quantities of veal or beef kidney suet and lean 
veal minced, pounded, rubbed through a sieve 
with chopped chives, then is mixed in yolks of 
eggs at the rate of two tc each pound of meat, 
then finished to the proper consistency with 
some strained cold Veloute sauce. 

HAM AND LIVER FORCEMEAT— Light col- 
ored calf's liver and fat ham in equal quantities 
cut in small pieces, the liver laid in clear cold 
water long enough to extract the blood, so that 
the forcemeat will be whiter; after which it is 
drained and wiped, the ham sauteed over a 
quick fire, then the liver in the ham fat, of a 
golden color together with some chopped shal- 
lots, parsley and mushrooms, seasoned with red 
pepper, salt and a little mixed spices, the 
whole then chopped fine, pounded, rubbed 
through a sieve; it is then ready for use. 



FRANGIPANE — Name given to a cooked cus- 
tard cream used iu filling puffs, eclairs, tart- 
lettes, paper cases for souffles, open pies as 
cream pies, etc. Made by boiling half a gallon 
of milk with ^ of a pound of sugar, then pour- 
ing it to 12 yolks of eggs that have been beaten 
and mixed with J54 a pound of sifted flour and 
a little cream; it is then returned to the fire 
with 4 ounces of butter, brought just to a boil, 
removed, flavored and strained for use. 

FRANKFORTS — Name of a pork sausage that 
is generally served with "sauerkraut." Made 
of equal quantities of lean and fat pork minced 
finely, seasoned with 3 ounces of mixed ground 
coriander seeds, salt, nutmeg and pepper to 
every 8 pounds, the sausage skins filled in the 
ordinary way, then hung in a dry cool place 
till wanted. 

FRAPPE — A French word that signifies a liquor 
is half frozen. 

FRENCH DRESSING— Four parts of olive oil 
to one part of vinegar, white or tarragon, a 
little onion juice, finely chopped parsley, salt 
and red pepper, the whole thoroughly mixed. 

FRIANTINE — French word sometimes used to 
designate a "bouchee" or small patty shell, 
hence a small patty of game may be called a 
friantine of game. 

FRICADELLES, ALSO CALLED FRICAN- 
DELLES— Are made of three-fifths cold cooked 
meat, one-fifth raw meat, one-fifth bread 
crumbs or boiled rice, the whole minced, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper, parsley, herbs and 
lemon juice, bound with beaten eggs, made up 
into balls, pats, cutlet shapes, etc., fried in 
dripping, or breaded and fried, then served 
with a sauce or garniture appropriate to the 
meat used. 

FRICANDEAU— Name applied to the whole but- 
tock or cushion of veal, that is larded, braised, 
and served in broad slices with a sauce or 
garniture. 

FRITTERS — Are either a mixture of fruits, veg- 
etables, meat or poultry combined with flour 
and eggs to form a batter; or the article en- 
closed within a baiter, then fried crisp, or 
baked as for eclairs, etc. 

CANDIED PEEL FRITTERS— Candied orange, 
lemon and citron peel chopped fine and mixed 
into a stiff batter composed of 1 pound of flour 
moistened with two-thirds sweet wine and one- 
third brandy; after all mixed, the whipped 
whites of ten eggs are stirred in, the mix- 
ture is then placed in a forcing bag with 
large tube, and forced out into boiling fat, fried 
crisp and done through, taken up, drained, 
rolled in powdered sugar; served with wine 
sauce, fruit puree or marmalade. Deviations 
may be made by using the imported "fruits 
glaces" such as angelica, poires, cerises, etc. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



*3 



FRUIT FRITTERS— Blackberries, raspberries, 
dewberries, strawberries, etc. mixed into a me- 
dium stiff batter without breaking the fruit, 
dropped by spoonfuls into very hot fat, fried, 
drained; served with a sauce made of the fruit 
used, the fritter being dusted with powdered 
sugar. 

SPANISH PUFF FRITTERS— Made by boiling 
together 7 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, and 
one pint of water; when boiling, 9 ozs. of sifted 
flour is thrown in all ai once, and stirred till 
well cooked, about five minutes, then removed 
from the fire and ten eggs beaten in one at a 
time, each egg to be thoroughly incorporated 
before the next is put in; with the last egg is 
added a tablespoonful of vanilla extract; 
dropped in small spoonfuls in medium hot fat 
they will expand into hollow balls about the 
size of an orange; room must be allowed to 
allow of their expansion and for them to roll 
over; when done, drained; served dusted with 
powdered sugar, vanilla or wine sauce around. 

QUEEN FRITTERS— Same as the preceding, 
but omitting the sugar and vanilla in the mix- 
ture; when done, they may be split in the side 
and filled with pastry cream, 

CUSTARD FRITTERS- -Boiling milk and sugar 
thickened stiff with cornstarch, some beaten 
eggs then worked in, flavored with extract 
poured into shallow pan; when cold, cut into, 
diamond shapes, breaded, fried; served with 
custard sauce. 

CHOCOLATE FRITTERS— Same as the pre- 
ceding, but boiling some chocolate with the 
milk; served withvanilla cream sauce. 

APPLE FRITTERS — Apples peeled, cored, 
leaving the stalk on, the core hole filled with 
stiff fruit marmalade; dipped into a stiff batter, 
slowly fried till done; served dusted with 
powdered sugar. 

APPLE FRITTERS — Large good cooking apples 
peeled and cored, cut in slices, dipped in bat- 
ter, fried; served with fruits, rum or wine sauce. 

RICE FRITTERS— Well boiled rice drained 
and pounded, mixed with eggs, sugar and a 
little flour; flavored with grated lemon rind, 
made into flat round cakes with a depression in 
the centre, fried; served coated with powdered 
sugar, and the depression filled with marma- 
lade or jelly. 

GERMAN FRITTERS— Very light roll dough 
cut out in thin flats, little jam placed in centre 
of one, covered with another flat, allowed to 
rise, then fried, drained, rolled in powdered 
sugar and served; also called "Bismarks." 

ORANGE FRITTERS — Quarters of skinned 
oranges with the seeds removed blanched in a 
thick syrup, taken up and drained, then dipped 



in batter and fried; served with orange sauce 
made from the syrup they were blanched in. 
CONFITURE FRITTERS— Also called "beig- 
nets aux confitures." Fruit marmalade spread 
between two thin slices of plain cake, then 
dipped in batter and fried. 
PEACH FRITTERS— Halves of peeled fresh 
fruit or canned ones drained, dipped in batter 
and fried; served with a thick syrup sauce into 
which has been worked some peach butter, the 
fritters dusted with sugar. 
APRICOT FRITTERS— Same as the preceding 
but substituting apricots for peaches; an- 
other way is to form a half apricot from rice 
croquette mixture, and putting the half apricot 
with it, pinning with a toothpick, dipped in 
batter and fried, toothpick then removed; 
served with sauce, 
PINEAPPLE FRITTERS— Slices of cored can- 
ned pineapple drained, dipped in batter and 
fried; served with a wine syrup glace sauce. 
CORN FRITTERS— Cooked corn cut from the 
cob, or canned corn, pounded, mixed with 
flour, eggs and butter, seasoned with salt, 
dropped by spoonfuls in hot fat, fried; served 
either as a vegetable or garnish. 
PARSNIP FRITTERS— The parsnips boiled, 
then mashed and mixed with flour, eggs and 
butter, seasoned with salt and white pepper, 
(the mixture should be medium soft) dropped 
by spoonfuls in hot fat; when done, served as a 
vegetable or garnish. 
FROGS- There are two kinds on the market, the 
small marsh frog, aud the large bull frog; the 
bull is the most convenient for use and trade, 
giving the guest most satisfaction, and the cook 
least trouble in preparation. 
FRIED FROGS, TARTAR SAUCE— The legs 
marinaded for an hour in lemon juice, salt and 
pepper, wiped, rolled in flour, then breaded 
and fried; served with tartar sauce, garnished 
with lemon slices and parsley. 
BROILED FROG LEGS— The legs marinaded 
for an hour in olive oil, lemon juice, salt and 
pepper, taken up, floured, broiled and basted 
with the marinade till done; served with Maitre 
D'Hotel butter, garnished with lemon and pars- 
ley. 
STEWED FROG LEGS WITH PEAS— Frog 
legs blanched for a few minutes in salted vine- 
gar water, then drained and put into a rich 
Veloute sauce, simmered till done; served with 
a border of sauteed green peas, 
FRICASSEE OF FROG LEGS-Frog legs lightly 
sauteed with butter and minced shallots, taken 
up, the butter then lightly browned, flour added 
to form a roux, moistened with chicken stock, 
brought to the boil, skimmed, seasoned with 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



salt, red pepper and sherry wine, legs put back 
into it and simmered till done. 
FROG LEGS, SOUTHERN STYLE— Frog legs 
sauteed with butter and minced shallots, then 
taken up; to the butter and shallots is now 
added a little raw lean ham cut in small dice, 
together with a chopped green pepper; when 
ham is nearly done, add two quarts of chicken 
consomme, a quart can each of okra and toma- 
toes, brought to the boil, a cupful of well 
washed rice then added; when rice is nearly 
done, the frog legs are put in and simmered 
till tender. It should be a thick stew. Served, 
the legs in centre of dish with the vegetables 
around as a garnish. 

FROG LEGS SAUTE, PROVENCALE— The 
legs seasoned with salt and pepper, then sau- 
teed with butter, taken up into a sautoir, cov- 
ered with Provencale sauce, simmered till 
tender; served garnished with small stuffed 
onions and tomatoes. 

FROG LEGS SAUTES, POULETTE — The 
legs seasoned with salt and pepper, then sau- 
teed with butter and minced shallots, taken up 
into a sautoir, covered with sauce Poulette, 
simmered till tender; served with the sauce, 
garnished with flageolet beans and fancy crou- 
tons. 

FROG LEGS SAUTE, BORDELAISE — The 
legs sauteed with minced ham, garlic, shal- 
lots, thyme and butter, taken up, to the resi- 
due is then added sauce Espagnole with a 
glass of claret wine; this is then reduced to a 
demi-glaze and strained over the legs; served 
garnished with fried slices of beef marrow. 

FROG OMELET, SOUTHERN STYLE — 
Shredded frog meat left over from either of the 
four preceding receipts, mixed into a sauce 
camposed of one-third each of tomato, Espag- 
nole and Creole sauce; a spoonful enclosed 
within a savory omelet; served with more of 
the frog meat down he sides. 

GALANTINE— A name applied to fowl, some 
game, fish and meat that may be boned, stuffed, 
boiled, braised or roasted, then pressed and cut 
into slices for service when cold, either plain 
or filled into molds with aspic jelly and decor- 
ated. 

GALANTINE OF TURKEY OR CHICKEN— 
Two birds, the larger one to be singed, the 
smaller skinned, the birds' skin split down the 
back from the head to tail, the carcass re- 
moved without further breaking the skin; the 
large one laid out flat, skin downwards, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and powdered mixed 
herbs; the under fillets of the breast to be filled 
into the space which the breastbone occupied, 
the wing and leg meat drawn inwards and the 
sinews removed, the whole then spread with a 
force or sausage meat; two strips each of cooked 



tongue and fat salt pork arranged alternately 
down the centre, also some slices of truffles if 
at hand; the meat of the smaller bird then laid 
over the stuffing, the white meat covering the 
dark of the other bird, so that when cut, light 
and dark meat is served to each portion; the 
skin of the large bird is then drawn together 
and sewn closely, placed into a cloth which is 
again sewn and tied at the ends like a roly poly 
pudding, plunged into boiling seasoned white 
stock and simmered till done; taken up and 
while still hot, pressed into a mold with screw 
pressure or weight on top; when set and cold, 
the cloth removed, the bird wiped with a hot 
cloth to remove all grease and stains, it is then 
sliced for the table. If the birds are both 
young and juicy, instead of being boiled they 
may be braised or roasted (of course without 
being tied in a cloth), when done, taken up, 
pressed, trimmed and glazed. 

GALANTINES are however generally served 
with aspic jelly, and the nicest way is to take 
the birds when pressed, wipe and trim, cut in- 
to even slices; galantine molds lined with aspic 
jelly, then decorated with cooked peas, mace- 
doines, fancy shapes of white of eggs, beet, car- 
rot and truffles, these decorations again coated 
with aspic to keep them in position, the slices 
of bird then laid into the mold EDGES DOWN- 
WARDS not laid flat; limpid aspic run between 
each slice; when the mold is full, set, turned 
out, decorated and sent to table. I have seen 
galantines served at banquets where the slices 
of meat have been laid flat in the mold, with 
the result that the waiters could not procure a 
decent slice to serve; had the edges been placed 
downwards, the waiter or serving man would 
have been able to move each slice with the jelly 
adhering simply by the aid of a fork. 

GAME — Name applied in a culinary sense to 
birds and animals fit foi table use that are 
hunted by sportsmen, the animals and birds 
not being domesticated; these embrace wood- 
cock, quail, snipe, partridge, wild ducks, geese 
and brant, prairie chickens, grouse, pheasant, 
reed birds, rail sora, ortolans, rice birds, sage 
hens, wheat ears, larks, capercailzie, plover, 
etc., squirrels, hares, venison, moose, caribou, 
black bear, elk, antelope, mountain sheep and 
goat; recipes will be found under each respec- 
tive heading. 

GARDEN PARTIES— Country club stewards 
and caterers are often called upon to prepare 
for and superintend garden parties, and as a 
rule the meal is served out of doors, under a 
marquee. When the steward or caterer has 
several through the summer season, invarably 
the same guests are to be found, he must there 
fore rack his brains to continually change the 
card. Solid food is NOT REQUIRED. The 
refreshments should be tea and coffee, various 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



85 



kinds of cups, delicate sandwiches of minced 
and creamed meat and fish, individual cakes, 
rolled bread and butter, ices, fruit; strawberries 
and cream are usually served from large silver 
bowls. The buffet should be well supplied with 
canapes, bouchees, timbales, darioles, individ- 
ual galantines made in fancy gem pans — all 
things to be of an individual form as far as pos- 
sible. Whatever wines are used should be of 
the light and sparkling variety, never anything 
heavy and heating. 

GARFISH — Name of a fish with an elongated 
mouth resembling in body both mackerel and 
eel; they are prepared and served in all the 
ways applicable to eels. 

GARLIC — Name of a podded or cloved form of 
onion of very strong taste and flavor, always to 
be used sparingly ; it enters into many soups, 
sauces and ragouts; in the recipes requiring it, 
the word clove, signifies one of the sections. 

GARNISHES — Name given to mixture of small 
tasty foods in sauce, used as a garnish and 
appropriate sauce to the main article served. 
Unhappily there are so many garnishes, that 
the average cook has not the brain to retain but 
a limited number, and not one cook in a hun- 
dred could sit down and write the component 
parts of twenty garnitures right off the reel. It 
is the garnishes that stupefy the guests and 
make them order plain roast turkey; that cov- 
ers the "bills of fare" with worse than mongrel 
French; that spoils many a good dish because 
the garnish used is not appropriate to the food 
served; that makes the country hotel keeper ask 
the cook what he wants this and that for; that 
makes the guest when he looks at the bill of 
fare exclaim: What in thunder is a la Montmor- 
ency! a la this and a la that. The following 
garnishes are the most principal in use, are 
put in a simple way to memorize, not only their 
ingredients; but that most important point that 
up to date no cook book has ever attempted to 
show. THE DISHES THAT THE GARN- 
ISHES ARE APPROPRIATE TO. 
ADMIRAL — Composed of shrimps, boiled cray- 
fish tails, fried tufts of parsley, oysters or 
mussels blanched, drained, dipped in Villeroi 
sauce then breaded and fried; appropriate as a 
garnish to WHOLE fish, the parts arranged in 
small groups around the fish with Admiral 
sauce served separately. 
ALLEMANDE — For braised meat, is composed 
of stewed sauerkrout, prunes and potato cakes 
arranged around the meat, with Poivrade sauce 
poured under it. 

ALLEMANDE — For boiled leg of pork: omit 
the stewed prunes and potato cakes, substitut- 
ing glazed pieces of carrot, turnip and small 
onions. 
ALLEMANDE— For boiled chicken: the garn- 
ish is quenelles of potatoes poached, then cov- 



ered with fried bread crumbs, arranged around 
the chicken with Allemande sauce poured un- 
der. This same is applied to most fowl and 
game served a l'Allemande. 

ALLEMANDE — For braised fish such as carp or 
pike, the garnish is composed of small fish 
quenelles, button mushrooms, crayfish tails, 
and either small oysters or mussels, arranged 
around the fish with Allemande sauce in which 
has been worked some of the fish braise and 
anchovy butter. 

ALLEMANDE — For roast or braised venison, 
the meat is garnished with prunes stewed in 
red wine, potato quenelles, and a sauce poured 
over the meat; made by taking equal parts of 
red currant jelly, Burgundy wine and Espag- 
nole sauce, boiling them together with the rind 
and juice of an orange, and a piece of stick 
cinnamon, then strain. 

ANDALOUSE— Small stuffed tomatoes and green 
peppers, with a small mold of dry boiled rice, 
arranged alternately around a dish of braised 
or roast meat or fowl, with Andalouse sauce 
poured under the meat. 

AURORE — Composed of small fish quenelles, 
button mushrooms and blanched oysters or 
mussels, the whole mixed into Aurora sauce; 
appropriate to garnish cutlets of fish, such as 
salmon trout, pike, cod, snapper, halibut, etc. 

ANGLAISE— For boiled beef is composed of 
neatly trimmed plain boiled carrots and turnips, 
arranged alternately around the meat with suet 
dumplings; piquante sauce served separately. 

ANGLAISE— For roast beef or fillet, is small 
browned potatoes at the side of the meat, with 
scraped horseradish at the ends. 

ANGLAISE — For calf's head, is composed of a 
slice each of boiled bacon and glazed tongue, 
and served either with parsley or devil sauce. 

ANGLAISE — For boiled chicken, is composed of 
tufts of boiled cauliflower, a thin slice of ham, 
and Bechamel sauce poured around. 

ANGLAISE — For roast goose, is garnished with 
plain sage and onion stuffing, a brown gravy 
poured over, and apple sauce served separ- 
ately. 

ANGLAISE— For boiled leg of mutton, is garn- 
ished with a small mold of mashed white 
turnips, alternated with a trimmed boiled car- 
rot, and served with caper sauce. 

ANGLAISE— For boiled leg of salt pork, is garn- 
ished with trimmed boiled carrots and turnips, 
arranged alternately around the meat with a 
puree of split peas. 

ANGLAISE — For roast pork, is garnished with 
sage and onion stuffing in spoonfuls alternately 
with a small baked apple; brown gravy or 
apple sauce served separately. 



86 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ANGLAISE — For boiled salmon, is garnished 
either with shrimp, mussel or parsley sauce. 

ANGLAISE — For roast turkey, is composed of 
small pork sausages fried, a slice of boiled ham, 
bacon, or salt pork, stewed chestnuts, arranged 
alternately around the meat with stuffiing un- 
der it, poivrade sauce poured around. 

[THE ENGLISH WAY of serving salmis of 
game is to simply garnish with button mush- 
rooms and croutons. Their roast venison is 
served plain with Yorkshire sauce]. 

AFRICAINE — Composed of stewed okras, arti- 
choke bottoms and pieces of egg plant mixed 
into an Espagnole sauce; appropriate to serve 
with braised veal and fowls. 

AU JUS — Dishes so named are served with their 
natural juice or gravy. 

BAYARD — Composed of circular slices of red 
tongue, truffles, mushrooms and artichokes, all 
boiled down with a little Madeira wine, then 
mixed into Espagnole sauce; appropriate to 
serve with sweetbreads, lamb fries and other 
white meat entrees, the ends of the dish being 
garnished with croutons spread with foie-gras. 

BORDELAISE — Composed of slices of parboiled 
ox marrow and Bordelaise sauce, or a sauce or 
butter composed of minced shallots, a suspic- 
ion of garlic, minced parsley and butter; served 
with broiled steaks. 

BORDELAISE — For matelote of eels, is com- 
posed of very small onions stewed, button 
mushrooms and blanched sauteed oysters, the 
whole sprinkled with chopped parsley, arranged 
alternately round the matelote with fancy crou- 
tons; no sauce. 

BORDELAISE — For roast quails, is a garnish 
of slices of truffles and mushrooms mixed into 
a Bordelaise sauce. 

BOURGIGNOTTE OR BOURGIGNONNE— Is 
composed of very small onions stewed, then 
glazed, with an equal quantity of button mush- 
rooms and small quenelles of forcemeat all 
mixed into a Bourgignotte sauce; appropriate 
to serve with croustade of quails, cutlets of 
sturgeon sautes, cutlets of mutton sautes, 
braised pigeon cutlets, salmis of small birds, 
etc. 

BOUERGOISE— Consists of plain root vegeta- 
bles glazed; appropriate for simple dishes, 
such as, glazed shortribs of beef, braised flank 
of beef, rolled breast of veal, etc. 

BOHEMIENNE — Composed of stoned olives, 
button mushrooms, small onions and balls of 
potatoes; appropriate to garnish braised and 
roast meat, under which is poured Poivrade 
sauce. 

BRETONNE — A garnish chiefly used with 
braised leg of mutton; composed of boiled navy 
beans, drained, then moistened with Bretonne 



sauce, which is made of fried onions with a 
suspicion of garlic, moistened with brown 
sauce, seasoned, then rubbed through a tamis; 
small olive shapes of potatoes fried a light 
brown in butter, generally accompanies the 
beans in the garniture. 

CARDINAL — Composed of small quenelles of 
lobster, small turned truffles and button mush- 
rooms, all mixed into a Cardinal sauce; appro- 
priate to serve with stuffed baked pike, carp, 
boiled salmon, turbot, halibut, fillets of sole, 
boudins of lobster, paupiettes of sole, fillets of 
trout, etc. 

CHAMBORD — Composed of fish quenelles, 
truffles, button mushrooms, crayfish, small fish 
roes, moistened with Genevoise sauce for the 
one part. Crayfish tails, turned truffles, small 
fish roes moistened with Villeroi sauce for the 
second part; appropriate to garnish WHOLE 
fish, such as salmon for a banquet table, the 
two colored garnishes being used alternately, 
intersticed with whole crayfish. 

CHIPOLATA — Composed of small glazed onions, 
glazed balls of carrot and turnip, chestnuts, 
cocks combs and kernels or pieces of chicken, 
pieces of braised bacon, balls of veal or pork 
sausages and button mushrooms, the whole 
moistened with Financiere sauce; appropriate 
to garnish small birds on toast, braised cutlets 
of mutton, roast pheasants, roast suckling pig, 
roast turkey, saute of rabbit, braised prairie 
hen, partridge with cabbage, braised capon, 
cutlets of turkey, etc. 

CHIVRY — Composed of blanched oysters coated 
with Villeroi sauce, then breaded and fried; 
small potato croquettes, small bouchees of 
oysters, and crayfish tails dipped in Villeroi 
sauce; appropriate garnish to whole fish. 

DUCHESSE — Composed of strips of red tongue 
and cocks combs mixed in Veloute sauce; 
appropriate for white meat entrees. 

DAUPHINE — Composed of Duchesse potatoes, 
fried tufts of parsley and Italian sauce; used for 
fried cutlets of chicken, veal cutlets, etc. 

DURAND — Composed of trimmed slices of truf- 
fles, chicken livers, mushrooms, ham, sweet- 
breads, bacon, olives stuffed with truffle farce, 
cocks combs, gherkins, and hard boiled yolks 
of eggs cut in halves, the whole moistened 
with Espagnole sauce that is flavored with 
thyme; appropriate garnish to fricandeaus, 
roast or braised legs of mutton, cushions of 
veal, etc. 

D'ARTOIS — A fish garnish composed of strips or 
circles of puff paste containing a salpicon of 
cooked crayfish tails, oysters, mushrooms and 
white fleshed fish. 

DUMAS — A garnish to be used with game; com- 
posed of ham, veal kidneys, cooked and cut in- 
to small sections, then moistened with Madeira 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



87 



sauce containing chopped parsley, tarragon and 
lemon juice. 

ECARLETTE-Composed of pieces of red tongue, 
corned beef and mushrooms moistened with a 
Villeroi sauce; appropriate to garnish blanq- 
ettes, supremes, etc. Also consists of red 
tongue in tomato sauce; or lobster coral in a 
V^loute sauce; these latter two should be used 
when the meat or fish is red, so as to preserve 
the color. 

FERMIERE — Composed of Parisienne fried po- 
tatoes, glazed balls of carrot, braised small 
lettuces and hearts of cabbages; appropriate to 
garnish braised or boiled beef, pot roasts, a la 
modes, etc. 

FINANCIERE — Composed of button mushrooms, 
turned truffles, pieces of sweetbreads, cocks 
combs and kernels, small quenelles of force- 
meat, the whole moistened with Financiere 
sauce; appropriate to garnish fillets of beef, 
poultry, calf's head, sweetbreads, pigeons, sal- 
mis of plovers, braised turtle fins, black game, 
braised saddle of lamb, salmis of partridge and 
pheasant, fillets of rabbits, necks of veal, veal 
cutlets, roast loin of veal, etc. 

FLAM ANDE — Composed of small pieces of bacon 
and sausages, plenty of braised white cabbage, 
turned boiled carrots and turnips, glazed onions; 
or the dish served with Brussels sprouts in half 
glaze, or with Flemish sauce. Appropriate 
garnish to boiled beef, boiled or roast ham, 
fillets of beef, large steaks, etc, 

GODARD— Composed of turned and glazed truf- 
fles, diced sweetbreads, godiveau quenelles and 
button mushrooms (cocks combs and kernels, 
optional) moistened with Madeira sauce; ap- 
propriate garnish to braised sirloin of beef, 
larded capons, braised saddle of lamb, etc., also 
as a filling for timbales of macaroni which are 
subsequently served with Perigueux sauce. 

GOURMET — Composed of neat-shaped pieces 
of ox palate, artichoke bottoms, turned truffles 
and button mushrooms, moistened with Ma- 
deira sauce; used for garnishing larded and 
braised fresh ox tongue. 

GREQUE — Composed of trimmed and blanched 
okras which are then simmered in a little Ma- 
deira sauce for ten minutes; used to garnish 
veal cutlets sautes, with a little Bearnaise sauce 
at ends of dish, also as a garnish to stewed veal. 

HUSSARD — Composed of small circles of cooked 
red tongue, slices of mushrooms and small go- 
diveau quenelles, the whole moistened with 
equal parts of Madeira sauce and tomato puree; 
used for garnishing braised white meat. 
JOURNEAUX — Composed of slices of sauteed 
chicken livers, moistened with rich Madeira 
sauce; appropriate garnish to roast or braised 
chicken, and as a filling for timbales, patties, 
omelets, etc. 



MACEDOINE— Composed of fancy shapes ot 
cooked carrot, turnip, stringless beans, with 
green peas, moistened with Allemande, Supreme 
or Bechamel sauces, when served with white 
meat entrees; or mixed with Espagnole sauce 
for dark meat entrees. Appropriate garnish to 
fillet of beef, boiled capon, braised ducks, glazed 
fillets of ducklings, braised saddle of lamb, 
breaded mutton cutlets, glazed ox tongue, fri- 
candeau of veal, roast fillet of veal, epigramme 
of lamb, fillets of capon, braised quails, larded 
sweetbreads, etc. 

MARINIERE— Composed of blanched oysters, 
crayfish tails, turned truffles and small fish 
quenelles; used to garnish boiled fish. 

MATELOTE— Composed of pieces of fish roe, 
very small onions sauteed in butter then drained, 
pieces of truffle, blanched mussels or small 
oysters and small fish quenelles, the whole 
moistened with a Matelote sauce; appropriate 
garnish to crimped codfish, eels, boiled salmon 
steaks, fillets of soles, baked stuffed bluefish, 
boiled carp, baked codfish, fried fillets of pike, 
boiled red snapper, braised trout, etc, 

MILAN AISE— Composed of inch pieces of boiled 
macaroni and red tongue, slices of mushrooms, 
a little boiled rice, chopped truffle peelings 
and Parmesan cheese, the whole moistened 
with equal parts of Madeira sauce and tomato 
pur£e (some raviolis optional); appropriate 
garnish to braised fillet of beef, boiled capon, 
boiled chicken, braised saddle of lamb, breaded 
mutton cutlets, fillets of chicken, stuffed breast 
of lamb, braised breast of veal, etc. 

NAPOLITAINE— Composed of inch pieces of 
boiled macaroni dressed with Parmesan cheese; 
sultana raisins stewed in wine, and glazed ravi- 
olis, arranged alternately around the entree 
with Napolitaine sauce poured under. Appro- 
propriate garnish to roast fillet of beef, suckling 
pig, braised capon, larded and glazed sweet- 
breads. 

NIVERN AISE— Composed of Julienne vegetables 
sauteed in clarified butter with a little sugar, 
then drained, moistened with consomme, and 
when nearly done, rapidly boiled down to glaze; 
used in this way or mixed into a Hollandaise 
sauce. Appropriate garnish to breaded chicken 
cutlets, braised beef and mutton, braised ducks, 
haricot of mutton, mutton cutlets, etc. 

PAYSANNE— Composed of slices of stuffed and 
braised cucumber, slices of braised carrot and 
small sausages, the whole then moistened with 
strained braise; appropriate garnish to black 
game, pheasant, haricot of mutton, haricot of 
ox tails, etc. 
PERIGUEUX— Composed of scallops of fat bird 
livers and truffles braised in a mirepoix, to which 
is then added some quenelles of forcemeat, cocks 
combs and kernels with button mushrooms, the 



88 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



whole then moistened with Perigueux sauce, 
boiled up for a minute or two. Appropriate 
garnish to roast black game, large boudins of 
poultry, salmis of partridges, roast pheasant, 
roast stuffed turkey, roast stuffed suckling pig, 
broiled stuffed boneless pigs feet, braised quails 
on fried croustades, fried quarters of young rab- 
bit, veal chops sautes (these are first trimmed, 
seasoned, dipped in whipped egg whites, rolled 
in minced truffles, smoothed with a knife, 
sauteed slowly with butter a delicate brown 
about twenty minutes). 

PARISIAN— Composed of equal quantities of 
turned truffles, button mushrooms and cocks ker- 
nels, moistened with Parisian sauce. Appropri- 
ate garnish to roast larded fillets of beef, fillets of 
chicken sautes, fillets of partridges breaded and 
sauteed, sauteed fillets of quails on toast, larded 
and braised sweetbreads. (For a club dish, the 
sweetbreads should be served three to the por- 
tion, one larded with strips of truffles, one with 
parsley stalks, the third with strips of red 
tongue, served on toast with the garnish around.) 
Fillets of soles stuffed and sauteed, (this is done 
by filleting the fish, spreading them with force- 
meat, arranged on a baking sheet, moistened 
with a little white wine, covered with buttered 
paper, slowly baked till the fish is set, then 
allowed to cool, spread with a cold Allemande 
sauce, breaded, then gently sauteed a fine color 
with butter; served with the garnish.) 

PROVENCALE— Composed of small stuffed and 
baked tomatoes, small onions with the centers 
removed after being steamed, the whole then 
filled with forcemeat in which is worked a lit- 
tle cheese and a flavor of garlic, they are then 
sauteed; the entree when being served is sur- 
rounded alternately with the onions and toma- 
toes, also a sauce Provencale poured under the 
meat; appropriate garnish to braised fillet of 
beef, fried cutlets of chicken, braised ducks, 
leg of mutton boned, stuffed and braised, 
braised mutton cutlets, salmis of partridges, 
roast stuffed sucking pig, fried calf's brains in 
batter, salmis of all wild fowls. 

REGENCY — composed of small fish quenelles, 
cocks combs, button mushrooms, crayfish tails_ 
truffles, and a little lobster coral, the whole 
moistened with some Regency sauce; appropri- 
ate garnish to WHOLE boiled salmon, trout, 
pike, halibut, turbot and red snapper. 

ROUENNAISE— Composed of turnips turned to 
an even small size, sauteed in butter with a lit- 
tle sugar till of a fine golden color, then mois- 
tened with some sauce Espagnole and simmered 
in it till tender; appropriate garnish to roast 
ducks, roast or braised pheasant, braised leg of 
mutton, capercailzie and black game. 

ROUENNAISE— Is also the name of a useful 
fish garnish and is composed for this use with 
blanched oysters and shrimps with button 



mushrooms, each in equal quantities, also some 
lobster quenelles, the liquor from the blanched 
oysters and mushrooms reduced with a little 
white wine, then added to a Veloute sauce, fin- 
ished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, 
lemon juice and chopped parsley, then is added 
the ragout. 

RICHELIEU — Composed of small poultry quen- 
elles which have some brown puree of onions 
in their composition, slices of braised poultry 
livers and cocks combs, the whole moistened 
with a brown onion puree sauce; appropriate 
garnish to entrees of game and poultry that are 
breaded and subsequently fried or broiled, also 
boneless pigs feet breaded, braised carbonade 
of mutton, crepinettes of partridge, etc. 

ROYALE — Composed of a ragout of button mush- 
rooms, cocks combs and kernels, small quenelles 
of chicken and turned truffles, the ragout to be 
moistened with the glazy strained braise from 
the meat. Appropriate garnish to braised loin 
of veal, breast of veal stuffed and braised, 
braised saddle of lamb, braised capon, braised 
rabbit, larded and braised fillets of chicken. 

ROYALE- -Garnish when to be used for game, 
such as braised venison, hare, pheasant, part- 
ridge, etc., is composed of pieces of braised 
pork sausages, braised bacon, button mush- 
rooms and green gherkins, the whole moistened 
with a Poivrade sauce. 

ROYALE — This name is often applied to fish, 
but when so applied it has no garnish, but is 
meant to convey the form and style of cooking, 
which is the fish either filleted and fried, or 
boned, stuffed and stewed, then served with a 
white Ravigote sauce, sometimes garnished with 
fish quenelles. 

ROYALE — This name when applied to soups and 
consommes, has a garnish or filling composed 
of fancy shapes or small timbales of custard; 
made with consomme and egg yolks, or court- 
bouillon and egg yolks, with some lobster roe, 
minced mushrooms, minced truffles, parsley, 
shallots, a green puree, etc., etc., mixed in ac- 
cording to fancy, the custard steamed slowly, 
the eggs simply mixed without much beating. 

SOUBISE — Composed of small potato croquettes 
and a puree soubise; made by sauteeing with 
butter some blanched onions, seasoning with 
nutmeg, red pepper and a pinch of sugar; when 
of a light color, moistened with white sauce; 
when done, the whole is rubbed through a 
tamis in conjunction with a boiled floury potato 
which keeps the puree firm. Appropriate gar- 
nish to braised black game, boudins of chicken, 
braised leg of mutton, larded neck of mutton, 
braised mutton cutlets, braised partridges, 
larded and braised pheasants, larded and 
braised pork cutlets, scallops of sweetbreads 
sauced, breaded and fried. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



89 



STANLEY — Garniture often served with steaks, 
composed of quartered fried bananas, small 
timbales of horseradish mixed with rice, minced 
shallots, cream and egg yolks; served with 
sauce Albert over or around the steaks. 

SUPREME — Composed of a puree of white 
chicken meat and rice that has been boiled in 
chicken stock, the puree being mixed with a lit- 
tle rich cream ; arranged on the serving dish as a 
border, decorated with fancy shapes of truffle, 
the meat in the centre being covered with a 
Supreme sauce, such as, breasts of chicken, 
sweetbreads, capon, quails and partridges. 

TOULOUSE — Composed of slices of geese livers 
sauteed and glazed, button mushrooms blanched 
with lemon juice and butter, scallops of sweet- 
breads, turned truffles, cockscombs and kernels 
masked with Toulouse or Supreme sauce. Ap- 
propriate garnish to larded and sauteed fillets 
of chicken, fricandeau of veal, sweetbreads, 
capon, larded and sauteed ribs of veal. 

TORTU — Composed of olive shaped pieces of 
truffle and green gherkins, stoned small olives, 
button mushrooms, scallops of blanched brains 
or sweetbreads, the whole moistened with a rich 
Madeira sauce; used to garnish calf's head, 
larded and braised turtle, stewed turtle fins. 

GHERKINS — A small prickly cucumber'used for 
pickling; to pickle them they are first washed 
and wiped, then placed in jars and covered with 
a boiling brine strong enough to float a potato 
the size of an egg; allowed to steep for 24 hours, 
then taken out, wiped, placed in clean jars and 
covered with hot vinegar spiced with an onion, 
whole cloves, mustard seed, bay leaves and 
mace; ready for use in two weeks. 

GIBLETS — Are composed of the heart, liver, 
gizzard and neck of poultry, and as each take a 
different time to cook, they should be cooked in 
groups of each and afterwards amalgamated; 
all require blanching to remove the blood. 

GIBLET SAUCE— Blanched and sauteed hearts, 
livers and gizzards, cut very small, then mixed 
into a thickened gravy from the roasted birds 
to be served with. 

GIBLET PIE — Geese giblets blanched, stewed 
in stock till tender with some sherry wine, 
carrot onion and parsley; when done, the 
vegetables removed, sauce made from the 
stock and seasoned with minced shallots, mush- 
rooms, chopped parsley, red pepper, salt and a 
little sweet basil; the giblets then arranged in 
the pie dish together with some small pieces of 
tender sauteed beef, the sauce poured over all, 
covered with a short paste, egg washed and 
baked. 

STEWED GIBLETS WITH GREEN PEAS— 
Poultry giblets prepared as in the preceding, 
but instead of mixing with beef and placing in 



pie dish, served as they are within a border of 
green peas. 

RAGOUT OF GIBLETS WITH POTATO 
CROQUETTES— The giblets blanched, then 
sauteed with bacon, finished by stewing till 
tender in a brown sauce with balls of carrot and 
small onions, adding at the last some button 
mushrooms, season with sherry wine; served 
within a border of small potato croquettes. 

GIBLET SOUP— The necks and second wing 
joints cut into inch pieces, the gizzards into 
thin slices, saute them, boil the livers with some 
minced onions, split the blanched hearts and 
saute them, mix all together and moisten with 
roast chicken gravy, let simmer till tender; 
meanwhile prepare a soup to the consistency of 
thin cream made from veal or chicken stock 
that has been flavored with celery, carrots, tur- 
nips and onions in equal proportions, bayleaf, 
thyme, basil, savory and mace; when ready, 
strain into the soup tureen, add the giblets in 
sauce, finish with sherry wine and serve. 

GIBLET SOUP WITH RICE— The giblets pre- 
pared and sauced as in the preceding, the 
soup made of equal parts of Espagnole, tomato 
and Veloute sauces, thin to consistency with 
veal or chicken broth, brought to the boil, 
skimmed, rice added and simmered till tender, 
then poured to the giblets, finish with Madeira 
wine. 

CLEAR GIBLET SOUP— Blanched giblets cut 
into neat size, simmered in white broth till 
tender, added to a chicken consomme together 
with some Julienne vegetables. 

GLAZE — Or reduced meat juice, used to glaze 
or varnish cold meat, such as, boned roast 
fowls, tongues, hams, game birds, boars head, 
etc., to enrich soups and sauces; made by rap- 
idly boiling down clarified stock, consomme or 
very clear broths; these should have had veal 
and beef bones, roast game and poultry car- 
casses boiled in them so as to give the glaze a 
rich flavor. 

GODIVEAU — Name used for veal forcemeat, 
made from 2 lbs. of lean veal, 2 lbs. of beef suet, 
1 lb. of cooked veal udder, the whole pounded 
till it is creamy, seasoned with red pepper, 
salt, nutmeg, 8 eggs and half a pound of fresh 
white grated bread crumbs, when all smooth, 
it is rubbed through a tamis, and placed away 
for use. It is valuable in making forcemeat 
balls, as a lining for meat pies, etc., quenelles. 

GOOSE — One of the domestic fowls much appre- 
ciated by hotel patrons if young. Stewards can 
tell this by the upper bill test, if the upper bill 
will bend or cave in the middle it is young, the 
firmer it is, the older the bird; it is not a very 
profitable bird to the proprietor unless purch- 
ased very low in price, because "when from a 
goose you've taken legs and breast, wipe lips, 
thank God, and give the poor the rest." 



go 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Spring or green geese about three months 
old are never stuffed for roasting: the best 
flavored geese are six to nine months old, and 
best from September to Christmas. 

BOILED GOOSE WITH PICKLED PORK— 
The bird singed, drawn and washed, plunged 
into boiling salted water with an onion, sim- 
mered till tender; served in portions with a slice 
of boiled ham or leg of salt pork, accompanied 
with celery sauce. 

ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH GODI- 
VEAU — Young birds singed, washed, drawn, 
filled with godiveau, trussed, roasted; served 
with giblet sauce, accompanied with a garnish 
of sauteed green peas at one end of dish, and 
a mound of mashed potatoes at the other. 

BRAISED GOOSE WITH SAUSAGES— The 
bird prepared, stuffed with pork sausage meat 
flavored with sage, braised with bacon and veg- 
etables; served with a garnish of Parisienne 
potatoes, broiled sausages, and gravy made 
from the strained and skimmed braise. 

ROAST GOOSE, APPLE SAUCE— The bird 
prepared and stuffed with a mixture of dry 
bread crumbs moistened with chopped green 
apples, minced onion boiled with a little water 
and butter; seasoned with sage, salt and pepper, 
trussed, roasted; served with dressing under 
the meat, apple sauce served separately. 

ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH CHEST- 
NUTS — The birds prepared and stuffed with a 
mixture made of two-thirds chestnut puree 
mixed with one-third godiveau, trussed, roasted; 
served in portions: garnished with roasted and 
peeled chestnuts, brown gravy made in the 
roasting pan poured under the meat. 

ROAST GOOSE WITH OYSTER STUFFING 
— The birds prepared and filled with a stuffing 
made of a quart each of oysters, bread crumbs, 
and rolled oyster crackers, one-half a pound of 
soft butter, four eggs, salt and pepper, roasted; 
served with a brown oyster or brown celery 
sauce. 

GOOSE WITH KRAUT, GERMAN STYLE— 
The goose prepared and trussed, arranged in a 
deep sautoir with well washed and drained 
sauerkraut, bacon and small bologna sausage, 
an onion stuck with cloves, moistened with a 
little broth and some fat from the top of stock, 
fetched to the boil, then simmered till done; 
served in portions with a garnish of kraut, bacon 
and sausage. 

STUFFED GOOSE WITH GLAZED TUR- 
NIPS — The bird prepared and stuffed with 
grated bread seasoned with sage and thyme 
leaves, parboiled minced onions, salt and pep- 
per, placed in a sautoir with an onion stuck 
with cloves, celery, parsley, little sherry wine 
and butter, lid placed on, then put into a hot 
oven, baked and basted till done and glazy; 



served with a brown sauce made in the sauce- 
pan it was cooked in, and garnished with col- 
umns of glazed turnips. 

BRAISED GOOSE WITH VEGETABLES— 
Prepare, truss and braise the birds with bacon, 
herbs and vegetables; served with brown gravy, 
and garnished with even sized pieces of car- 
rot and turnip glazed, intersected with Brussels 
sprouts. 

STUFFED GOOSE WITH GLAZED APPLES 
—The birds prepared and filled with mashed 
potatoes mixed with minced and sauteed onions, 
trussed, roasted; served with brown gravy, 
garnished with small apples baked whole and 
glazy. 

ROAST GREEN GOOSE, GOOSEBERRY 
SAUCE — The bird singed, drawn, washed, 
trussed, with the inside seasoned well with 
salt, pepper and powdered sage, roasted and 
basted; served with gooseberry sauce. 

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE — Green gooseberries 
with a little sugar and just enough water to 
keep them from burning, in a saucepan, lid 
placed on, simmered till done, then rubbed 
through a sieve like cranberries; when passed 
through a little butter is added, 

GORGONZOLA — Name of a prime cheese made 
in the North of Italy, somewhat resembling the 
English stilton; it is of yellow color with rich 
green veins, firm and creamy. 

GRAHAM FLOUR— Name given to unbolted 
flour by Sylvester Graham, who claims for it 
more nutritive properties, but it has, however, 
been proven to be less easy of digestion; it is 
made into bread, pancakes, waffles, muffins, 
mush and crackers. 

GRAPES, FROSTED— Bunches of grapes dipped 
into whites oi eggs whipped into a froth, then 
into powdered sugar, surplus sugar then shaken 
off, hung till set and dry, then served. 

GRAPE JAM — Pulp the grapes, keeping the pulp 
and skins separate, pour the pulp into a porce- 
lain lined kettle and bring it to boiling point, 
then press through a colander, add the skins 
and measure; to every quart allow a pound of 
sugar, mix, boil rapidly for 20 minutes, stirring 
occasionally, pour into tumblers or jars, seal. 
If green grapes allow one-half pound more 
sugar to the quart. 

GRAPE JELLY— Use freshly gathered ripe Con- 
cord, Clinton or Isabella grapes, put them into 
stone crocks, place the crocks in the bain-marie 
of cold water, cover the tops and heat slowly 
till grapes are soft; now put a small quantity at 
a time into a jelly bag and squeeze out the juice; 
measure the juice and to each quart allow 2 
lbs. of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a 
porcelain lined kettle over a brisk fire, place 
the sugar in the oven to heat, boil the juice 
rapidly for 20 minutes; then quickly add the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



sugar, jtirring till it is dissolved; dip the glasses 
into hot water, watch the liquid, and as soon as 
it comes to the boil, remove from the fire and 
fill the glasses. 

GREEN GRAPE JELLY— Fox grapes are the 
best; put the stemmed grapes into a porcelain 
lined kettle, barely cover them with cold water, 
cover the kettle, and boil slowly till the grapes 
are very tender, then drain them through a 
flannel jelly bag; to every quart of the juice al- 
low 2 lbs. of granulated sugar, put the juice in- 
to porcelain lined kettle, bring to the boil, then 
add the sugar, and boil rapidly till it jellies, 
about 20 minutes, skimming off the scum as it 
rises; as soon as it jellies, dip the glasses into 
boiling water and fill with the boiling liquid, 
stand aside till cold and firm, then seal the 
tops. 

GRAPE FRUIT— Also called "shaddock" and 
"forbidden fruit" and the largest ones "pompol- 
eons", a fruit of the orange species, plentifully 
grown in the West Indies and Florida, are of 
an agreeable acii grape flavor; served cut in 
halves across, with the sections loosened and 
the seeds removed; eaten with powdered sugar, 
a little sherry wine being a valuable addition. 

GRAYLING — A prime game fish of fine flavor 
weighing from 1 to 5 lbs, ; cooked and served in 
all the ways applicable to brook trout. 

GREENGAGE— Called by the French "Reine 
Claude" a species of plum that when ripe re- 
mains green; used as a table fruit, in compotes, 
pies, jellies, ices, and as a sweet entree with 
rice. 

GRENADINS — Name applied to the fricandeau 
of veal cut in half inch thick slices, then 
stamped circular with a biscuit cutter, these 
larded with seasoned strips of ham or bacon, 
arranged in a sautoir, moistened with a light 
colored strong consomme, reduced to a half 
glaze and the larding is cooked; served overlap- 
ping each other with a garnish of green peas or 
glazed root vegetables in forms, or with gumbo 
and egg plant, or a chipolata garnish, or with 
small stuffed tomatoes and tomato sauce, or 
with a Financiere garnish. 

GRIDDLE CAKES — For recipes, see heading of 
"batter." 

G R O U S E — Under this heading comes the 
"spruce", "ruffled", pintail", moor fowl", "cap- 
ercailzie", prairie chicken", "ptarmigan", etc. 

STUFFED GROUSE, MUSHROOM SAUCE— 
The bird singed, drawn and washed, filled with 
a stuffing made from the liver, minced onions 
and mushrooms, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and 
pepper, strips of bacon tied over the breast, 
roasted; served with mushroom sauce flavored 
with sherry wine. 

GLAZED GROUSE, SAUCE TRIANON— The 
birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up, 
quartered, skin removed, dipped into a game 



glaze; served on a fancy crouton with sauce 
Trianon poured around. 

ROAST GROUSE, SCOTCH STYLE — The 
birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up, cut 
in quarters, served on toast with Bigarade 
sauce poured over, and garnished with slices of 
oranges. 

SALMIS OF GROUSE— The birds trussed and 
roasted plain, taken up and cat into quarters, 
placed in a sautoir, moistened with game sauce, 
fetched to the simmer, flavored with sherry 
wine; served with sauce over, garnished with 
fancy croutons, the top of the bird sprinkled 
with grated orange r nd and minced truffles. 

ROAST GROUSE, HUNTERS STYLE— The 
bird trussed and roasted plain, taken up and 
cut into quarters; served on toast with sauce 
poured over, made of 2 parts of Espagnole and 
1 part tomato sauces, seasoned with minced 
fried shallots, lemon juice, minced mushroom^ 
and chopped parsley. 

STEWED GROUSE WITH GREEN PEAS— 
Stuff and truss young birds, roll them in butter, 
quickly brown them in a very hot oven, take 
out and place in a deep sautoir, moisten with 
game sauce, put on the sautoir lid, lei stew 
slowly till tender, take up and cut into portions, 
keeping them hot in a little sauce, the sauce 
they were stewed in then strained and skimmed, 
seasoned with sherry wine; served poured over 
the bird, garnished with green peas sautee. 

BRAISED GROUSE WITH GLAZED CAR- 
ROTS — Truss the birds, arrange in a braziere 
with slices of bacon, celery, onion stuck with 
cloves, bay leaves, slices of carrot and turnip, 
a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, moisten 
with game gravy, slices of bacon placed on the 
birds and on the bacon a sheet of buttered 
paper, lid then put on, the birds braised till 
done and glazy, taken up, cut into portions, the 
braise strained and skimmed, then mixed with 
a rich brown sauce flavored with port wine; 
served with the sauce poured over and gar- 
nished with balls of sauteed and glazed carrots. 

ROAST GROUSE, BREAD SAUCE — The 
breasts of the bird larded with seasoned strips 
of fat pork, trussed, seasoned with salt and 
pepper; rolled in melted butter, then in flour, 
roasted and basted till done; served with bread 
sauce at sides. 

STUFFED FILLETS OF GROUSE WITH 
QUENELLE S— Young birds trussed and 
roasted plain, taken up and filleted, the fillets 
spread with game forcemeat, arranged on a 
baking sheet, moistened and heated with game 
sauce; when to be served, dipped in a game 
glaze; served on a fancy crouton with game 
sauce and garnished with small game quenelles. 

BROILED GROUSE WITH BACON— Young 
birds singed, split down the back, the back and 



92 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



breastbone removed, thigh bone snapped, laid 
for half an hour in olive oil, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, broiled till done; served on 
toast with strips of broiled bacon, Maitre 
d'Hotel butter, garnished with Julienne pota- 
toes. 

GROUSE CUTLETS BRE ADCRUMBED— 
Young birds singed, trussed and roasted, taken 
up and jointed, skin removed, dipped into a 
thick cooling rich game sauce, then in sifted 
breadcrumbs, (not cracker dust) then breaded, 
and arranged on a baking sheet, sprinkled with 
melted butter, placed in oven, basted and 
browned; served garnished with Duchesse 
potatoes. 

GRUYERE OR SWISS— Name of an imported 
cheese used both in cooking and for the table; 
is large, round, thick and flat in shape, has a 
peculiar nutty flavor and when cut is found 
to be full of small holes. 

G ROUPER — Name of one of our Southern fishes, 
found in three varieties, black, red and white; 
the shape is a cross between a carp and a bass, 
weighs from 5 to 10 lbs. ; the flesh is firm but 
coarse; a second class fish. 

BOILED GROUPER, CAPER SAUCE— The 
fish prepared and boiled in salted water with 
a little vinegar (time to simmer about 40 min- 
utes), taken up and drained; served with caper 
sauce and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

BOILED GROUPER, MATELOTE GARNISH 
— The fish prepared and scored, boiled whole 
in court-bouillon with a bunch of sweet herbs 
when done, drained; served in slices with a lit- 
tle lobster coral strewn over, garnished with a 
Matelote (see garnishes). 

GROUPER STUFFED AND BAKED, TOMA- 
TO SAUCE — The fish scaled aud washed, 
back bone and entrails removed, stuffed, put 
back in shape and tied with twine, baked whole 
with slices of salt pork; served in portions with 
a strip of the pork and tomato sauce poured 
around. 

BAKED GROUPER, GULF STYLE— The fish 
scaled, head removed, split down the back and 
the backbone removed, laid out on greased pan, 
seasoned with mixed peppers and salt, placed 
in oven till heated through and set, then taken 
out, moistened with melted butter, returned to 
oven, baked with frequent basting till done 
and brown; served in portions with tomato 
puree around, and garnished with lemons. 

GROUPER SAUTE, LOBSTER SAUCE— The 
fish prepared, cut in steaks, laid in seasoned 
olive oil, sauteed with it; when done and brown, 
served with lobster coral strewn over the por- 
tion and lobster sauce around. 

BAKED RED GROUPER, SPANISH SAUCE 
— The fish cleaned and scored, arranged in bak- 
ing pan, moistened with white stock and some 



fat from the stock pot, seasoned with salt, veg- 
etables and a dash of vinegar, place in medium 
oven; when about a third done, remove the up- 
per skin, then baste frequently till done and 
brown, (about one hour is required for a 7 lb. 
fish); served in portions with Spanish sauce 
poured around. 

GUAVA — Name of a Southern and West Indian 
fruit that is chiefly used in making preserves 
and jellies. Guava jelly is one of the best to 
serve with delicate flavored game. 

GUINEA HEN — A domestic fowl smaller than 
the ordinary chicken, with darker flesh, often 
takes the place of partridge; is best to serve in 
the spring of the year when game is a bit scarce. 

ROAST LARDED GUINEA HEN— The bird 
singed and drawn, the legs and breast larded 
with seasoned strips of fat pork, rolled in but- 
tered paper, baked till done and brown; served 
with a brown poultry gravy, garnished with 
watercress. 

BROILED GUINEA HEN, WITH BACON— 
Young birds singed, split down the back, the 
breast and backbones removed, thigh bone 
snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
in flour, then in melted butter, broiled; served 
on toast with strips of bacon, Maitre D'Hotel 
butter, and garnished with Julienne potatoes 
and watercress. 

ROAST GUINEA HEN, SAUCE BEARNAISE- 
The birds singed and cleaned, trussed, slices of 
fat larding pork tied over the breast, roasted; 
when about done, the pork removed, then 
quickly browned; served in portions, garnished 
at ends of dish with fancy croutons, and Bear- 
naise sauce at the sides. 

BRAISED STUFFED GUINEA HEN— The 
birds singed and drawn, filled with a quenelle 
forcemeat, the breasts larded, arranged in a 
braizer with vegetables and spices, moistened 
with stock and white wine, covered with strips 
of bacon, braised and basted till done taken up, 
the braise strained and skimmed, then rapidly 
reduced to demi glaze, which is then added to 
a Financiere garnish, the bird served whole or 
in portions with the garnish around. 

GUMBO — Another name for the vegetable okra; 
for recipes see "OKRA". 

HADDOCK — A fish of the cod species but 
smaller; when dried and smoked is known as 
smoked haddock or Finnan Haddie, from the 
village of Finnan near Aberdeen, Scotland, 
which is as famous for its curing haddocks as 
Yarmouth is for its bloaters. 

BAKED STUFFED HADDOCK-The fish scaled 
and cleaned, backbone removed, filled with an 
oyster stuffing, baked and basted till done; 
served in portions with a brown oyster sauce. 

BOILED HADDOCK, OYSTER SAUCE— The 
fish prepared and cut in portions, boiled till 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



93 



done in salted water with a dash of vinegar; 
served with white oyster sauce and garnished 
with Hollandaise potatoes. (With boiled had- 
dock, egg, cream, Bechamel, parsley, shrimp, 
lobster, crab and Hollandaise sauces are also 
appropriate). 

FILLETS OF HADDOCK. SAUTE 1 — The fish 
cleaned, boned, cut in fillets, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, sauteed in but- 
ter, taken up, gravy made in the pan, strained, 
the fish served sprinkled with parsley dust, 
gravy at the sides, garnished with Parisienne 
potatoes. 

FILLETS OF HADDOCK, BREAD CRUMB- 
ED, DUTCH SAUCE— Prepared and cut into 
fillets as in the preceding, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in beaten egg, then in sifted 
breadcrumbs, fried; served with Dutch sauce at 
the sides, garnished with cress and lemon. 

BROILED FRESH HADDOCK, ANCHOVY 
BUTTER- Prepared and cuL in fillets, rolled 
in flour, broiled and basted with butter; served 
spread with anchovy butter, garnished with 
Saratoga chips, watercress and lemon slices. 

CREAMED HADDOCK WITH OYSTERS— 
cold boiled haddock in flakes without skin, 
heated in Hollandaise sauce with an equal quan- 
tity of blanched and drained oysters; served 
piled high on toast, sprinkled with parsley dust. 

BAKED FINNAN HADDIE, BUTTER SAUCE 
— The fish trimmed and skinned, arranged in 
a baking pan with a little water, placed in oven 
till set, water then poured off, seasoned with 
pepper, moistened with butter sauce, baked; 
served with the sauce, garnished with parsley 
and croutons. 

FINNAN HADDIE SAUTE, PARSLEY SAUCE 
— The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm 
water for a few minutes, then sauteed with but- 
ter; served on toast with parsley butter sauce 
poured over, garnish with watercress. 

FINNAN HADDIE BOILED, CREAM SAUCE 
— The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm 
water for an hour, washed, then put to boil in 
cold water; served with cream sauce poured 
over, garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 

FINNAN HADDIE BAKED WITH TOMA- 
TOES — The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in 
warm water for an hour, washed, blanched, 
cut in portions, arranged in baking pan with 
sliced peeled tomatoes, minced fried shallots 
and chopped parsley, baked; served on toast 
with the tomatoes around. 

FINNAN HADDIE BROILED, LOBSTER 
BUTTER — The fish skinned, trimmed, blanch- 
ed, dried, seasoned with pepper, rolled in olive 
oil, broiled, served on toast, spread with lob- 
ster butter, garnished with watercress. 

FINNAN HADDIE BAKED, ABERDEEN 
STYLE — The fish skinned and trimmed, baked 



with milk and butter; served with a sauce made 
of mustard, butter and lemon juice mixed to- 
gether so that it is soft enough to melt when 
laid on the hot fish. 

HAGGIS — Name of a Scotch national dish pre- 
pared by cutting into small pieces the heart, 
liver, milt and skirt, together with the lungs of 
a freshly killed sheep; after first blanching and 
boiling till tender each separate part, to each 
set of haslets as above is mixed one pound of 
finely chopped beef suet, one half pint each of 
minced onion and oatmeal, seasoned with salt, 
red and black pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, 
the whole thoroughly mixed and moistened with 
a little beef gravy, the mixture is then filled in- 
to a well cleansed sheep paunch, sewn up, 
pricked with a fork to allow air escape, plunged 
into boiling salted water, and kept simmering 
till done, about two and a half hours; served 
without any garnish. 

HALIBUT — A large flat fish of the flounder 
species, the young and medium sized ones be- 
ing the best, and known as "Chicken halibut". 

BOILED HALIBUT STEAK, CREAM SAUCE 
— The fish scaled and trimmed, cut into steaks, 
simmered in boiling salted water containing a 
dash of vinegar; served sprinkled with parsley 
dust, cream sauce at the sides. 

BROILED HALIBUT STEAK— The steaks sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then 
in olive oil, broiled; served with maitre d'hotel 
butter, garnished with watercress and lemon, 
sometimes with a strip of broiled bacon. 

BOILED HALIBUT— The fish scaled and trim- 
med, cut into portions, boiled in salted water 
with a dash of vinegar; served with either lob- 
ster, clam, cream or Hollandaise sauces. 

BAKED HALIBUT, EGG SAUCE— The fish 
scaled and trimmed, cut into portions, arranged 
in baking pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
moistened with milk and butter, baked and 
basted till done; served with egg sauce, garn- 
ished with slices of hard boiled eggs. 

FRIED HALIBUT STEAK, WITH BACON— 
Slices of bacon blanched, then fried, the steaks 
seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, 
then dipped into beaten eggs, fried a golden 
brown in the bacon fat; served with strips of 
bacon. 

HALIBUT STEAK SAUTE, TOMATO SAUCE 
— The steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, slowly sauteed a golden color 
with butter; served with a sauce composed of 
equal parts of tomato puree and tomato catsup. 

CREAMED HALIBUT WITH MUSHROOMS 
— Flakes of cold boiled halibut mixed with 
slices of sauteed button mushrooms, moistened 
with Bechamel sauce, filled into deep oval or 
scallop dishes, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and 
melted butter, baked a delicate brown and 
served. 



94 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



HAM — A leg of pork salted and smoked. Hams 
to be boiled, steamed or baked, should be soaked 
overnight in cold water, thoroughly scrubbed 
in the morning, and when cooking should be 
allowed 20 minutes time for each pound in 
weight. If to be kept for serving when cold, 
they should be allowed to cool in the water 
they were boiled in, as that keeps them moist 
down to the last cutting, even for a week or 
more. 

STEWED HAM WITH SPINACH— The ham 
prepared and steamed as directed above, taken 
up, skinned; served in slices on a bed of spin- 
ach with brown sauce at sides. 

BOILED HAM WITH LIMA BEANS— Soaked 
overnight, scrubbed, boiled for 20 minutes to 
the pound; served in slices with a garnish of 
fresh lima beans in brown sauce. 

ROAST HAM, CHAMPAGNE SAUCE— The 
ham prepared, then steamed two-thirds of its 
cooking time, taken up and skinned, placed in 
baking pan in medium oven, baked and basted 
till done; but five minutes before taking up, 
sprinkle with sugar to nicely glaze it; serve with 
champagne sauce at sides. 

ROAST STUFFED HAM— The ham prepared, 
then boned, the bone holes filled with pork 
forcemeat, drawn together and tied with string 
then sewn in a cloth, steamed two-thirds of its 
cooking time, then finished in medium oven 
after removing cloth and skin; served with cel- 
ery sauce or sauce flavored with celery salt. 

BRAISED HAM WITH VEGETABLES— Pre- 
pared, boned and stuffed as in the preceding, 
tied in a cloth and boiled till within half an hour 
of its cooking time, then taken up, cloth and 
skin removed, placed in a brazier with a pint of 
Madeira wine, rapidly braised and basted till 
done and the wine reduced, taken up, Espag- 
nole sauce added to the braise with a little cur- 
rent jelly, boiled up, strained and skimmed; 
the ham served in slices with the sauce over or 
under, garnished with glazed root vegetables. 

CROQUETTES OF HAM WITH GREEN 
PEAS — Cold cooked ham finely cut two-thirds, 
mixed with one-third of fresh mashed potatoes 
and a few egg yolks, seasoned with nutmeg and 
pepper, rolled into the desired shape, breaded, 
fried; served surrounded with green peas in 
Veloute sauce. 

MINCED HAM WITH EGG— Cold ham trim- 
mings minced, mixed with a seasoning of 
minced and fried shallots, parsley, cayenne 
and a little horseradish mustard, moistened 
with a little sauce or gravy, thoroughly heated; 
served heaped high on buttered toast, with a 
poached egg on top, or garnished with slices of 
hot hard boiled eggs. Creamed young carrots, 
Parisienne vegetables, Jardiniere, and aspara- 
gus tips also make a desirable garnish for this 
dish. 



HAMBURGER— Or Hamburg steaks are minced 
beef with a little onion, a suspicion of garlic, 
salt and pepper seasoning, fried or broiled, and 
served either plain or with any of the sauces 
appropriate to steaks. 

TOMATOED HAMBURGER— The same as 
above but freely mixed with raw tomato meat 
freed from skin and seeds; should be served 
with tomato sauce. 

HARE — Practically the dark fleshed rabbit which 
attains a larger size lhan the common or white 
fleshed one, and which is also of superior fla- 
vor. We commonly call it the "Jack rabbit". 
The steward should watch to buy young ones 
only; an old or soft limp one is beyond the 
chef's ingenuity to prepare for table service 
and give the patronage satisfaction; the young 
ones are EASILY told by tearing the ears with 
the thumb and finger, IF THEY DO NOT 
TEAR EASILY, LEAVE THEM ALONE. 

STUFFED SADDLE OF HARE WITH JELLY 
—The saddle from the shoulders to the legs, 
cut in halves across making two portions, boned, 
stuffed with game or other forcemeat, tied 
round with twine, arranged in baking pan, each 
piece covered with a slice of fat pork, roasted 
and basted till done, taken up, little brown 
sauce added to the pan, boiled up, strained and 
skimmed, then poured to the hare; served with 
red currant jelly and garnished with fancy 
croutons. 

FILLETS OF HARE, POIVRADE SAUCE— 
The legs and saddles marinaded for two hours 
in a little white wine with slices of carrot and 
onion, salt, pepper and nutmeg, the whole then 
placed in a sautoir with a little fat pork, lid 
put on, placed in hot oven, roasted and basted 
till done, about 45 minutes, taken up, poivrade 
sauce added to the residue, boiled up, strained 
and skimmed; served with the fillets, garnished 
with croutons. 

BRAISED HARE WITH GAMECRO- 
QUETTES--The legs and saddles prepared as 
in the preceding, the fore quarters of the hare 
used to make the croquettes; served, the fillets 
on a fancy bed of mashed potatoes, the sauce 
around, garnished with the croquettes. 

CIVET OF HARE, HUNTER'S STYLE — The 
shoulders are the best for this dish, slices of 
bacon blanched, then cut into even sized small 
pieces and fried, the hare rolled in flour and 
fried lightly in the bacon fat, both then put into a 
sautoir; to the remaining fat flour is added to 
form a roux, moistened with stock and red 
wine, boiled up, skimmed, then strained over 
the meat, to which is added a bunch of sweet 
herbs, parsley, onions, salt, pepper and a few 
whole cloves, simmered till done, hare and 
bacon then taken up into the serving pan, the 
sauce further thickened with the liver made in- 
to a paste, and the blood, (it must not be boiled 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 



95 



after the blood is in) then strained over the 
meat; served, garnished with fried button 
mushrooms and small onions that have been 
blanched, then fried. 

FILLETS OF HARE, SAUTES— The legs and 
saddles trimmed, then fried with butter, or 
bacon fat, taken up into a sautoir, moistened 
with Bourgignotte sauce, simmered till tender; 
served garnished with croutons and slices of 
truffles on the hare. 

FRIED FILLETS OF HARE— The legs and 
saddles trimmed, then fried with butter, taken 
up into a sautoir, moistened with game gravy, 
simmered a little while; served garnished with 
small poached quenelles made from the fore- 
quarters. 

LARDED SADDLES OF HARE— The saddles 
boned and trimmed, tied into shape with twine, 
larded with seasoned strips of pork, rolled in 
buttered paper, roasted till done, taken up, 
paper removed, rolled in game glaze; served on 
fancy shaped toast with Poivrade sauce poured 
around. 

JUGGED HARE— The hare cut into fillets and 
boned, the bones and head pounded, then 
boiled with vegetables in stock and red wine, 
the fillets lightly fried in bacon fat; stone crock 
lined with bacon, the fillets put in, the bone 
liquor thickened, strained over the meat, baked 
slowly till tender (about three hours); when 
done, grease skimmed off; served. It may also 
be made in individual dishes and served in the 
one it was baked in. 

FILLETS OF HARE, TOMATO SAUCE— The 
legs and saddles larded and braised; when 
done, the braise strained and skimmed, added 
to a rich tomato sauce; served with the meat, 
garnished with croutons. 

CUTLETS OF HARE, PIQUANTE SAUCE— 
The legs fried in butter, then simmered in 
game gravy till tender, taken up and cooled, 
then breaded and fried, Piquante sauce made 
from the gravy they were simmered in; served 
with the cutlets, garnished with slices of stoned 
olives. 

SCALLOPS OF HARE WITH FINE HERBS 
— Fillets of hare cut into scallops, flattened, 
trimmed, sauteed in clear butter, taken up into 
a fines-herbes sauce to which is added button 
mushrooms, simmered till done; served piled 
high in centre of dish, garnished with small 
cone shaped croquettes made from the inferior 
parts. 

SCALLOPS OF HARE WITH TONGUE, 

SAUCE PERIGUEUX— Prepared and sauteed 
as in the preceding recipe, taken up into a p£ri- 
gueux sauce; served piled high in centre of 
dish with circles of tongue overlapping each 
other around the base, garnished with small 
croquettes as in the preceding. 



HERRING — The Lake Superior herring is the 
best for filleting, as its fillets are boneless; the 
fresh water herring of the lower lakes is not so! 
The blue backs or sea herrings are packed into 
barrels and shipped all over the States when in 
season, which is a very short one. 

BOILED FRESH HERRING, SHRIMP 
SAUCE — Prepare by cutting off the head and 
fins, then scale, draw, wash and score the sides, 
put into boiling salted water and simmer for 15 
minutes, take up, drain; serve with shrimp 
sauce. 

BROILED FRESH HERRING, MUSTARD 
SAUCE — Prepared herrings marinaded for an 
hour in olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper, 
taken up, broiled; serve with a good anchovy 
sauce finished with mustard and lemon juice. 

FRIED FRESH HERRINGS, MUSTARD 
BUTTER — Prepared herrings seasoned, rolled 
in flour, fried in clarified butter, served spread 
with melted butter mixed with mustard, garn- 
ished with parsley and lemon. 

BOILED FRESH HERRINGS, CREAM 
SAUCE — Prepared herrings boiled in salted 
water slowly for 15 minutes, taken up, drained; 
served with cream sauce poured over. 

BAKED FRESH HERRINGS, FENNEL 
SAUCE — Prepared herrings arranged in baking 
pan with a few bay leaves, moisten slightly 
with equal parts of fish broth and vinegar, 
baked and basted till done, taken up; served 
with a spoonful of the liquor over them, fennel 
sauce at the sides. 

BAKED STUFFED HERRING— Prepared her- 
rings filleted and boned; spread with fish force- 
meat, the two sides then again put together as 
if the fish was sandwiched with farce, arranged 
in buttered baking pan, baked and basted; 
served with a Maitre d'Hotel sauce. 

CURRIED FRESH HERRINGS, WITH EGGS 
— Boneless sides of herrings sauteed in clarified 
butter, taken up into a curry sauce made from 
fish broth, simmered a few minutes, taken up, 
coated with sauce; served on a long strip of 
toast, garnished with slices of hot hard boiled 
eggs. (Good dish for Fridays). 

BONED FRESH HERRING ON TOAST— 
Split, boned, sprinkled with pepper, salt, 
thyme, rolled from tail to head, tied with twine 
or tape, baked in court-bouillon with a dash of 
tarragon vinegar; served on circles of toast with 
lemon parsley sauce. 

SOUSED HERRINGS— Scale and draw the fish, 
cut off the heads, wash and drain, arrange in 
porcelain lined baking pans, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, ground allspice, a few bay leaves 
and shallots, moisten to two-thirds of their 
height with white wine vinegar, cover with 
another pan, place in oven and bake very slowly 
for an hour; served cold, wiped dry, garnished 
with watercress. 



9 6 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



HICKORY— Name of one of the common nuts, 
also called Pecans; used in cake making, decor- 
ating, flavoring, etc. 
HOE CAKES-Name of a Southern pancake made 

of ground maize, salt and water. 
HOT POT OR HOTCH POTCH— A soup stew 
made and baked in a pot as follows: take a 
large earthern crock, into it put four lbs. of 
lean beef trimmings cut into inch pieces, one 
lb. of small balls of pork sausage meat, one- 
half a cupful of sliced onions, one cupful each 
of sliced and peeled cucumbers, carrots and 
asparagus points, one pint each of green peas 
and skinned tomatoes, a handful of washed 
rice, one cupful of chopped green peppers and 
a small heart of cabbage shredded, season with 
salt and pepper (NO SPICES), add four gal- 
lons of cold water, place on the crock cover, 
put in a moderate oven at 6 a. m. and it will be 
ready for 12 o'clock dinner. 
Another hot pot is made with scrags of mutton 
instead of the beef and pork, substituting leeks 
and barley for the peppers and rice. 
HOMINY — Is hulled maize, marketed in differ- 
ent grades as to size; the large is generally 
known as "hulled corn" is boiled like rice and 
served with milk; or boiled very soft, turned 
out into a buttered pan, when cold, cut into 
strips rolled in flour (never bread it), fried a 
delicate brown iand served either as a garnish, 
or for breakfast with maple syrup. When 
boiling hominy which is to be fried, always add 
towards the finish, some flour, as that will hold 
it together and stop it from breaking and spit- 
ting when being fried. 
BOILED HOMINY— A breakfast cereal: fine 
hominy soaked overnight, boiled for two hours 
in a farina kettle; served with cream and sugar. 
HOMINY CROQUETTES— The preceding when 
boiled mixed with a little grated cheese and 
flour, beaten egg yolks, salt and red pepper, 
poured into buttered pan, when cold, made in- 
to form, breaded and fried. 
HORSERADISH— Name of a pungent root, 
grated fine and used as a table condiment, and 
in flavoring sauces; as a condiment is best as 
follows: One pint of grated horseradish, one- 
half a pint of white wine vinegar, salt, little 
sugar, mix and use. 
HORSERADISH BUTTER — Equal parts of 
grated horseradish and butter well pounded to- 
gether with a seasoning of salt and lemon juice, 
then rubbed through a fine sieve; served spread 
over broiled steaks. 
ICES — These include sherbets, cream ices, water 
ices, etc., in infinite varieties. 

CUP ICES— Small fluted cups or glasses filled 
with fruit syrups and placed in a large tub or 
tray, with pounded ice and salt around them; 
when frozen a sufficient thickness, the remain- 



ing liquor poured out, the cups then replaced 
so as to solidify the part where the liquid re- 
mained, the cups then turned out, filled with 
any form of ice different in color to the cup. 
ORANGE ICES— Oranges with a slice cut to 
form a lid, the interior and pith scooped out, 
the skins then soaked in water for an hour, 
then dried and filled with orange water ice 
mixed with French fruits glaces that have been 
soaked in a liqueur; they are then frozen and 
served. 
IMPERIAL ICES — Ice cups made as above, 
then filled with strawberry water ice flavored 
with champagne— Pineapple Water Ice flavored 
with Santa Cruz rum — Cherry Water Ice fla- 
ored with Noyeaux, etc. 
FANCY WATER ICES— Freeze solidly all forms 
of water ices in equal quantities, such as Nut 
Cream Ice, Madeira Ice, Claret Ice, Pistachio 
Cream, Raspberry and Strawberry Water Ices, 
Curacoa Cream Ice, Orange and Lemon Ices, 
Cherry Water Ice, Caramel Cream Ice, etc., 
then fill individual forms in shapes of fruit and 
flowers, close the molds, pack, freeze, turn out 
and serve. 

The same to be done with all kinds of ice 
creams such as Vanilla, Cherry, Chocolate, 
Tea, Coffee, Currant, Grape, Chestnut, Almond, 
Pistachio, Noyeaux, filled into individual forms 
of fruit and flowers, vegetables, etc , the idea 
being to have varigated colors, flavors and 
shapes. 
ICED SNOWBALLS— Rice boiled very tender, 
in water, sweetened, flavored with orange or 
lemon juice, frozen in the shape of balls, then 
taken out, rolled in whipped cream, served if 
possible in a shallow green glass dish, the top 
of the ball sparingly spotted with green pista- 
chio gratings. 
NEAPOLITAN BRICKS— Brick molds filled in 
three colors of ice cream or one of them may 
be water ice, so as when cut to show three dis- 
tinct layers, frozen solid, turned out, cut in 
slices. 
ICED FROTHS — Fancy shaped glasses filled 
with whipped cream piled high, sweetened, 
frozen; served in the same glasses. 
IRISH MOSS — An edible seaweed, gelatinous, 
reddish brown in color, good for those with 
delicate digestions in blanc-mange, creams, 
flawns, farinas, etc. 
IRISH STEW— The neck chops of mutton that 
ar^ under the shoulder, trimmed, gristle re- 
moved, boiled with the shanks from the legs 
and shoulders and other mutton trimmings till 
half done, taken up and stewed with potatoes 
and onions till tender in the strained and 
skimmed stock from the boiling, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, lightly thickened; served sprink- 
led with chopped parsley. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ISINGLASS— A form of gelatine prepared from 
the swim bladder of the sturgeon; more expen- 
sive than gelatine without any appreciable bet- 
ter results. 

JARDINIERE— Name applied to a garnish of 
small cut mixed vegetables, such as carrots, 
turnips, asparagus tips, cauliflower, stringless 
beans and some green peas, cooked in seasoned 
broth, drained; served plain or tossed with half 
glaze or meat gravy. 

JELLY — A clarified, gelatinous combination of 
sugar, water, spices and colorings, flavored 
with wine, fruit juices, etc.; also made from 
calf's feet (see calf). To make the stock jelly 
use 2 qts. of water or fruit juices, 3 ozs. of 
dissolved gelatine, the grated rind and juice of 
4 lemons, 1 lb. of granulated sugar, the broken 
whites and shells of 6 eggs, mix well, bring to 
the simmer; after it coagulates, allow the scum 
to assume a grey color, so as to perfectly clar- 
ify, then strain through a flannel bag three 
times and use for the following: 

FRUIT JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with sherry 
wine, fancy molds filled an inch deep, allowed 
to set, then fruit arranged as a border; if cur- 
rants or grapes arranged in bunches; molds 
then gradually filled with limpid jelly and set. 

WEST INDIAN JELLY— Stock jelly strongly 
flavored with Jamaica rum, fancy molds filled 
an inch deep and allowed to set, slices of 
bananas and sections of seeded oranges then 
arranged as a border, jellied and set, the mold 
then filled with limpid jelly, set, turned out and 
served. 

RIBBON JELLY— Stock jelly in three parts, one 
colored with strawberry juice, one with cara- 
mel and flavored with brandy, the third 
whipped to a froth on ice, and flavored with 
benedictine, arranged in molds with six layers, 
each to be set before the other is put in, com- 
mence with the red, then the whipped, and 
lastly the caramel. These three colors and 
flavors look well in three triangles as follows: 
hold the mold so that you form a triangle shape 
of red jelly, set that, then reverse the side and 
form a triangle with the caramel, that leaves a 
wedge shape from the tip to the base, then fill 
up with the whipped jelly. 

PINEAPPLE JELLY Stock jelly flavored with 
noyeaux, the mold filled with iL and pieces of 
pineapple. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY— Stock jelly flavored 
with strawberry juice, the mold filled with it 
and whole strawberries. 

RASPBERRY JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 
red raspberry juice, the mold filled with it and 
whole raspberries. 

BLACKBERRY JELLY— For this use a border 
mold, and when turned out, fill the centre with 
whipped cream. 



97 

APRICOT JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 

maraschino, the mold filled with it and halves 

of peeled apricots. 
MACEDOINE JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 

maraschino, the mold filled with it and small 

whole fruits. 
RUSSIAN JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 

liqueur, then whipped to a Loth on ice, filled 

into molds and set. 
PISTACHIO JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 

Dantzic brandy, mold filled half an inch deep, 

shredded pistachios then strewn in, the mold 

then filled in with layers of jelly strewn with 

pistachios. 
ORANGE JELLY— When making the stock jelly 

add the grated rinds of oranges and a little 

cochineal to give it the orange tint; when done 

and strained, fill into molds. 
LEMON JELLY — Made the same as orange jelly 

except use grated lemon rinds, and omit the 

cochineal. 
JULIENNE — Name applied to a garnish of 

shredded root vegetables, also to shredded 

potatoes. 
JUNIPER — Name of a blue berry used for flav- 
oring gin; also adds a nice flavor to corned 

meat when a muslin bagful of crushed berries 

is added to the brine. 
KALE — A vegetable in appearance like endive, 

and in taste like green cabbage, cooked the 

same as spinach. 

KHULASH OR GOULASH— Name of a ragout 
much esteemed by the Hungarians; made by 
taking pieces of beef and sauteeing them with 
onions in butter, seasoning with salt and pap- 
rika, moistened with brown sauce, simmered 
till tender; served garnished with Hollandaise 
or Parisienne potatoes. 

KIDNEYS — Recipes will be found under the 
name of the animal to which it belongs. 

KINGFISH — Name of a Southern fish, exquisite 
in flavor, and of a nice size for restaurant and 
club service. 

BOILED KINGFISH, SAUCE NORMANDE— 
The fish prepared, boiled in salted water with 
a dash of vinegar, when done, drained; served 
with Normande sauce, garnished with Hollan- 
daise potatoes. 

KINGFISH WITH FINE HERBS— Prepared 
and trimmed, arranged in buttered baking pan, 
baked and basted with butter; served with fines- 
herbes sauce, garnished with Julienne potatoes. 

BROILED KINGFISH, LEMON BUTTER— 
Prepared and trimmed, split down the front, 
laid open and the backbone removed, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, brushed 
with butter, broiled and basted till done; served 
spread with Maitre D'Hotel butter, garnished 
with chip potatoes, lemon and parsley. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 



KINGFISH SAUTE, SAUCE COLBERT— 
Boneless sides of the fish seasoned with salt 
and pepper, rolled in flour, sauteed with butter 
a delicate brown; served with Colbert sauce and 
garnished with Colbert potatoes. 

FRIED FILLETS OF KINGFISH, BREAD- 
CRUMBED — Boneless sides of the fish sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, 
dipped in beaten eggs, then breadcrumbs, fried; 
served with Maitre D'Hotel butter, garnished 
with lemon and parsley. 

KIRSCHWASSER— Name of a liqueur made 
from cherry juice; obtained by crushing the 
fruit, stones and kernels, then fermenting; used 
as a flavoring to sherbets, cakes, icings, ices 
and confectionery. 

KOHL-RABI — Name of the cabbage turnip; may 
be peeled, boiled, mashed and seasoned same 
as turnip; or, as is best, peeled, cut in quart- 
ers, boiled in salted water till done, drained, 
then simmered in butter sauce a few minutes 
before serving. 

KOUMISS — A milk preparation tasting like but- 
termilk, used as a health beverage; made by 
filling quart champagne bottles up to the neck 
with pure milk to which is added a syrup made 
by dissolving two tablespoonfuls of white 
sugar in one of water, also X OI a 2-cent cake 
of yeast; corked and tied securely, shaken well, 
stood for six hours in a warm room, then cooled 
overnight by placing in ice box. 

KROMESKIES— Name applied to any form of 
croquette mixture made into form of corks, 
finger lengths, wrapped in a thin shaving of 
cold boiled bacon, dipped in batter and fried. 

KUMMEL — Name of a liqueur prepared from 
cumin and caraway seeds in sweetened spirit. 

ROAST LAMB — Any joint roasted a quarter of 
an hour to each pound in weight in a medium 
oven; must be frequently basted; about 10 
minutes before taking up, should be dredged 
with flour and basted with melted butter, so as 
to take on a delicate color; served either with 
mint sauce or currant jelly in separate dishes, 
with a spoonful of gravy under the meat. 

BRAISED LAMB— The shoulder lifted off and 
boned, leaving the shank for a handle, lay it 
out flat, season with salt and pepper, spread 
with forcemeat, roll up, tie in neat shape, 
braise it with vegetables; served with the 
strained and skimmed braise, or with a garnish 
of turned vegetables — green peas, glazed col- 
umns of turnips, stuffed egg plant and okras, 
Brussels sprouts, Milanaise garnish, asparagus, 
larded lamb's sweetbreads, etc. 

BOILED LAMB— The legs simmered in white 
stock with a bunch of sweet herbs till done, 
allowing 12 minutes to the pound; served with 
cream sauce, caper sauce, spinach puree, sorrel 
puree, haricots verts, shred wax or stringless 
beans, macedoine of vegetables, asparagus tips. 



SAUTE OF LAMB— The shoulder boned and 
cut into neat pieces, sauteed with minced 
onions and a flavoring of garlic in butter, raw 
skinned tomatoes cut in halves, and lightly 
fried with butter, taken up and added to the 
lamb, the whole then cooked for 20 minutes; 
served garnished with fancy croutons. 

BLANQUETTE OF LAMB— The breast or 
boned shoulder cut in neat pieces, seasoned with 
salt and white pepper, rolled in flour, quickly 
without coloring, saute them with butter and a 
few minced shallots, take up into a sautoir, make 
a cream sauce in the butter, etc., they were 
sauteed in, strain over the lamb, simmer till 
done, adding some button mushrooms and a little 
chopped parsley; serve in a casserole, or with a 
border of fancy mashed potatoes. 

EPIGRAMME OF LAMB — Breasts of lamb 
simmered in seasoned white stock till the bones 
are easily removed (keeping the little rib bones) 
press the breasts ; when cold, trim and cut 
into cutlet shapes, point the rib bones and in- 
sert into the pieces of lamb, bread and fry one- 
half of them, roll in flour and saute with butter 
the other half; served at the side of a croustade 
filled with garnish, and a sauce at the sides; 
the sauteed one should be brushed with light 
colored glaze; the croustade may be filled with 
Toulouse garnish, sauteed lamb fries, mace- 
doine of vegetables, green peas, asparagus tips, 
button mushrooms, diced lamb sweetbreads or 
brains, etc. 

FRICASSEE OF LAMB— Breast of lamb cut 
into neat pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
rolled in flour, sauteed lightly with butter, 
taken up into a sautoir, moistened with thin 
white sauce, simmered till done, skimmed, 
sauce then thickened with a liaison of egg 
yolks and cream, seasoned with nutmeg and 
cayenne; served with a garnish of green peas, 
inverted molds of dry boiled rice, macedoine of 
vegetables. 

CURRIED LAMB— Cold roast lamb cut into 
neat pieces with the skin removed; curry sauce 
made from lamb or mutton stock, simmered in 
it till thoroughly heated; served within a bor- 
der of dry boiled rice. 

CURRIED LAMB— Rack of lamb cut into chops, 
trimmed, sauteed with minced shallots, taken 
up into a sautoir, sprinkled with flour and 
curry powder, seasoned with salt, lemon juice 
and a dash of cayenne, moistened with white 
stock, simmered with a sprig of green mint till 
done, mint then removed; served within a bor- 
der of rice, potatoes, green peas, button mush- 
rooms, etc. 

STEWED LAMB— Scrag of lamb and the chops 
from under the shoulder cut in neat pieces, 
simmered in white stock till done, sauce made 
of the broth; served with a sprinkling of pars- 
ley and a garnish of vegetables. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



99 



CUTLETS OF LAMB— The rack of lamb cut 
into chops and trimmed, then either breaded 
after seasoning, sauteed; spread on one side 
after lightly broiling with forcemeat orD'Uxel- 
les dressing, then finished in oven; served with 
a garnish of green peas, or any of the follow- 
ing: asparagus points, macedoine, button mush- 
rooms in sauce, Maitre D'Hotel butter, print- 
aniere, Villeroi sauce, Godard garnish, slices 
of stuffed cucumber, Toulouse or Financiere 
garnish, small new potatoes, puree of mint, 
stuffed tomatoes, puree of peas and Bechamel 
sauce, green peas and caper sauce, peas and 
asparagus points in Bechamel, Julienne vege- 
tables in Madeira sauce, saute 1 of small new 
carrots cooked whole and seasoned with lemon 
juice, sugar and chopped parsley, puree of peas 
and the sauteed cutlets dipped in glaze, the 
cutlets larded, dipped in Perigord sauce, then 
breaded and fried; served with truffle sauce, 
Italian style i. e. sauteed in butter just enough 
to set them, dipped in Italian sauce thickened 
with Parmesan cheese, when cooled, breaded 
and fried; served with Italian sauce; they may 
also be first set by lightly sauteeing, then dip- 
ping into appropriate lamb sauces, cooling, 
breading, frying and serving with a sauce the 
same as they were coated with. 
EMINCE OF LAMB— Cold leg or shoulder of 
lamb cut in thin slices, then again into circles 
with a large column cutter, reheated with but- 
ter over a quick fire, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and powdered mint, then drained; into the 
butter is then placed some minced shallots; 
when lightly browned, flour added to form a 
roux, moistened with mutton broth, seasoned 
with salt, nutmeg, pepper, herbs and a dash of 
Worcestershire sauce, boiled five minutes, then 
strained over the lamb, which simmer for fif- 
teen minutes; served on toast. 
HASHED LAMB WITH POACHED EGG— 
Roast lamb trimmings chopped fine and sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and finely chopped 
green mint, moistened with thickened roast 
lamb gravy, fetched to the simmering point; 
served on a slice of toast, garnished with tri- 
angles of buttered toast on which is a trimmed 
poached egg. 
RAGOUT OF LAMB— The breast, chops under 
the shoulder, and the scrag, neatly cut and 
trimmed, fried a light color with butter, taken 
up, very small whole onions then fried in the 
butter, taken up and added to the lamb, flour 
then added to the butter to form a roux, moist- 
tened with white stock, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per, pot herbs and a crushed clove of garlic, 
boiled, skimmed, strained over the lamb and 
onions, simmer till done; served with a border 
of fancy vegetables, macedoine, mushroom 
sautes, green peas, flageolets, new lima beans, 
Parisienne potatoes, small stuffed tomatoes, etc. 



STEWED LAMB, GARNISHED— Preferably 
use the centre cuts of the breasts, boil them 
with a bunch of green mint in seasoned white 
stock; when done, taken up and the bones re 
moved, placed in a colander and washed with 
hot water to remove any scum; white sauce 
made from the broth, seasoned with salt, red 
pepper, lemon juice and nutmeg; when done, 
strained over the washed lamb in a sautoir, 
simmer, skim; serve sprinkled with parsley 
dust and garnished with small new potatoes of 
even size, green peas, asparagus points, mush- 
rooms sautes, small stuffed tomatoes, small rice 
timbales, forcemeat balls, a jardiniere of vege- 
tables, mixed haricots, potato croquettes, 
French beans, etc. 

LAMB'S FRIES— The testicles blanched and 
trimmed, cut in halves, skinned, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, rolled in 
flour, then breaded and fried; served with 
tomato, Bearnaise, remoulade and trianon 
sauces, or on a bed of mashed potatoes and 
flanked with peas, flageolets, etc. May also be 
broiled and served on toast with Maitre 
D'Hotel butter, tartar or Bearnaise sauces, also 
fricasseed and served with a garnish suitable 
to sweetbreads. 

SCALLOPS OF LAMB WITH RICE— Take 
cold lamb and cut into pieces the size of half 
dollars, simmer them in Veloute sauce seas- 
oned with a little nutmeg. To serve: arrange 
some hot boiled rice grains around the edge of 
a platter, place the lamb in the centre and 
sprinkle with parsley dust, garnish the rice 
with scallops of red tongue reheated with a lit- 
tle butter. 

LAMB SWEETBREADS IN CASES— Cooked 
lamb sweetbreads cut in dice two-thirds, diced 
mushrooms one-third, mixed, simmered in 
thick Veloute sauce, filled into buttered paper 
cases or croustades, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, 
browned in a quick oven and served. 

LASAGNES — Name of an Italian paste in the 
form of yellow ribbon, often used as noodles in 
soups, garnishes, etc. 

LEEK — A plant of the onion species having a 
non-bulbous root and flat broad leaves; in fla- 
vor a cross between the onion and garlic; very 
valuable as a soup stock flavoring. 

BOILED LEEKS— Young leeks trimmed and 
washed, tied in small bundles like asparagus, 
cooked till tender in boiling salted water, taken 
up and drained; served on toast with melted 
butter, Bechamel sauce or meat gravy. 

LEEK SOUP, SCOTCH STYLE-Leeks trimmed 
and washed, cut into pieces an inch and a half 
long, boiled in equal parts of chicken broth and 
beef stock, oatmeal added, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, simmered till done, skimmed, fin- 
ished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. 



L ofC. 



LEMONS— This country consumes in a year 
about 500,000,000 lemons, or about six and a 
half lemons for each man, woman and child. 
The California lemons are very good ones, and 
only experts can tell them from the Mediter- 
ranean crop. For culinary purposes the lemons 
of Sicily, i. e. from Messina and Palermo, are 
to be preferred as they possess a much better 
flavor. A box of lemons averages about 300 
each. From 1,500,000 to 2,000,000 boxes are 
sold in a year here. It is predicted that the 
California crop will soon average 1,000,000 
boxes. It will be interesting to note whether 
they will drive out any or all of the foreign 
lemons. They are used by the catering frater- 
nity in large quantities for flavoring and gar- 
nishing soups, sauces, salads, meats, fish, pies, 
puddings, cakes, jellies, extracts, confectionery, 
mixing with drinks, ices, sorbets, creams, etc. 

LEMON MARMALADE— Three dozen lemons, 
their equal weight in granulated sugar, lemons 
halved and their juice extracted and strained, 
the rinds boiled till tender in plenty of water, 
then drained, pith scooped out, the skins then 
finely shred, the juice and sugar then boiled to 
a syrup, after which is added the shredded 
skins, boiling continued till reduced to the 
marmalade consistency; used for steamed roly- 
poly puddings, tartlettes, layer cakes, etc., etc. 

LEMON MINCEMEAT— Useful for mince pies 
in temperance hotels and other temperance 
functions. Made of 2 lbs. of lemons, 4 lbs. of 
sour apples, 2 lbs. of beef suet, 4 lbs. of cur- 
rants, 2 lbs. granulated sugar, l / z lb. each of 
candied citron and lemon peel, t% ozs. grated 
nutmeg, y 2 oz. of mace. The apples cored and 
minced, the candied peels finely shred, the 
suet finely chopped, the currants washed, 
picked and drained, the lemons pared and the 
juice extracted, the rinds boiled tender, then 
minced, the whole then thoroughly mixed, al- 
lowed to stand a week before using; brandy and 
port wine may be added if used for other than 
temperance people. 

LEMON CREAM— Two quarts of milk brought 
to the boil with a pound and a half of sugar; 
grated rinds of four lemons mixed with six 
ounces of sifted flour, then made into a smooth 
thickening with milk; when smooth, poured to 
the boiling milk and stirred till creamy, then is 
added three ounces of butter, juice of the lem- 
ons and the yolks of 12 beaten eggs, continue 
stirring till of a custard consistency; then re- 
move and use for filling puffs, eclairs, lemon 
cream pies, tartlettes, spreading layer cakes, 
etc. 

LEMON SOUP — A rich cream of chicken soup 
nicely flavored with the grated rinds and juice 
of lemons. 

LEMON SAUCE — Lemons with seeds removed 
finely minced or passed through a mincing ma- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 

chine, enough of it worked into a V£loute* sauce 
to give a pronounced flavor; used for boiled 
capons, chickens, turkey and fish. 

LEMON TRIFLE— Small glasses with a piece 
of sponge cake at bottom, spread with lemon 
marmalade, the glass then filled up high with 
whipped cream that is sweetened and flavored 
with nutmeg, and the grated rinds and juice of 
lemons. 

LEMON DUMPLINGS— 4 lbs of grated bread- 
crumbs, 2 lbs. of finely chopped beef suet, 2 
lbs. of powdered sugar, grated rinds and juice 
of eight lemons; rinds, crumbs, suet and sugar 
mixed together dry, the whole then bound with 
the lemon juice mixed with 18 beaten yolks of 
eggs; form into dumpling shapes, boil in a cloth, 
or steam till done (steaming is best); serve with 
a sweet lemon flavored cream sauce. 

LENTILS— Name of a brownish red, flatted 
small pea, cultivated on the European conti- 
nent and Asia as a food; it is a most nourishing 
article, containing about twice as much nourish- 
ment as meat. 

LENTIL SOUP— Lentils boiled till done in sea- 
soned white stock lightly thickened with roux, 
seasoned with salt, pepper, tomato catsup; 
served with croutons. 

LENTIL SOUP— Lentils boiled till tender in 
white stock, with leeks, celery, parsley and a 
piece of salt pork; when done, pork removed, 
the soup lightly thickened, then rubbed through 
the tamis; served with croutons. 

CREAM OF LENTILS— The preceding puree 
mixed with an equal quantity of Veloute sauce; 
served with croutons. 

LETTUCE— One of the best of salad plants; 
seen on our markets in three shapes, called the 
cabbage lettuce, Cos lettuce and Romaine let- 
tuce. 

LETTUCE SALAD— Well washed, wiped and 
shred lettuce leaves sprinkled and tossed with 
French dressing. 

LETTUCE AND ONION SALAD— Same as the 
preceding, adding very finely shred spring 
onions. 

LETTUCE SALAD— Hearts of cabbage lettuces 
washed and wiped dry, sprinkled with chopped 
chives, chervil and tarragon leaves, then dashed 
with a dressing of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. 

LETTUCE AND TOMATO SALAD — Well 
washed, wiped and shred lettuce tossed with 
French dressing, garnished with peeled and 
sliced tomatoes having a drop of Ravigote 
sauce on each. 

LETTUCE AND TOMATO S A L A D— Well 
washed, wiped and shred lettuce tossed lightly 
with Remoulade sauce, add minced capers, 
garnish with sliced peeled tomatoes sprinkled 
with French dressing. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



LETTUCE AND CUCUMBER SALAD— Well 
washed, wiped and broken lettuce leaves tossed 
and glistened with a dressing composed of 2 
tablespoons of olive oil well beaten with 3 
whole eggs, then add a dessert spoonful of rich 
cream and one of tarragon vinegar; served 
garnished with very thin slices of cucumber 
sprinkled with French dressing. 

BAKED STUFFED LETTUCE — Trimmed, 
washed and drained lettuces, parboiled a few 
minutes, the insides then filled with sausage 
meat, the heads tied, arranged in a shallow 
sautoir, moistened with white stock and Ma- 
deira sauce, seasoned with salt and pepper, cov- 
ered with buttered paper, placed in oven and 
cooked till done, about 20 minutes; served with 
the string removed and the sauce poured over. 

LIMES — A small kind of lemon, used in the bars 
for Rickeys and other drinks; served with 
oysters in preference to lemons, also with veal 
cutlets, fried soles, smelts and bass. AtMont- 
serrat the limes are cut in halves, the juice ex- 
tracted and bottled, then supplied to most shrps 
at sea as a preventive of scurvy, British" ships 
using it by law, so that an English ship is 
known amongst sailors as a "Limejuicer." 

LIVER — For the following recipes either sheep's, 
lamb's, calf's, pig's or ox liver will do. 

RAGOUT OF LIVER— Wash and dry a liver, 
steam it till quite tender, then cut it in slices, 
add it to a rich brown sauce or gravy, stew it 
till thoroughly heated through ; served garnished 
with slices of lemon and hard boiled eggs. 

FRIED LIVER WITH ONIONS— Liver washed 
and wiped dry, cut in slices, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried in bacon 
fat; served with sliced onions that have been 
fried, drained and lightly moistened with brown 
sauce. 

SAUTE OF LIVER— Thin slices of liver and 
bacon, the bacon fried not crisp, the liver 
seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour 
and lightly fried in the bacon fat, then taken 
up and placed with the bacon in a sautoir; 
lightly fry then a little minced onion in the 
bacon fat, add flour, stir, moisten with stock, 
boil up, skim, pour it to the liver and bacon, 
simmer till done; served sprinkled with chopped 
parsley, garnished with croutons. 

LIVER AND SALT PORK— Same as the pre- 
ceding, substituting salt pork for the bacon. 

LIVER PUDDING— Liver and bacon cut in 
squares, stewed in brown gravy, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, then filled into pudding molds 
lined with paste, covered, cloth tied over, 
boiled or steamed for an hour and a half; serve. 

CURRIED LIVER WITH FORCEMEAT— 
Equal quantities of udder and liver minced, 
then pounded and rubbed through a sieve, 
seasoned with salt, pepper, sweet herbs and a 



little sifted breadcrumbs, add an egg or two; 
when thoroughly mixed, form into balls, rolled 
into sifted breadcrumbs, fried brown, then 
simmered in curry sauce till done through; 
served with the sauce and garnished with slices 
of broiled liver dipped in Mailre d'Hotel sauce. 

LOBSTER SALAD— Lobster meat with lettuce 
or celery and mayonnaise, arranged on a dish 
and decorated with shapes of beet root, capers, 
pickles, whites of eggs and quartered hard 
boiled eggs. 

MIROTON OF LOBSTER— Slices of lobster 
meat, half of them dipped in cold white sauce, 
the other half in a cold cardinal sauce, served 
on a bed of shred lettuce with mayonnaise 
down the centre. 

MAYONNAISE OF LOBSTER-Lobsters (hens) 
boiled in court-bouillon, when cold, the tail 
and claw meat sliced into a dish, the creamy 
part of the head with the coral mixed with yolks 
of eggs, mustard, oil and lemon juice, then 
worked to form a mayonnaise, when done, 
mixed with the lobster meat; served garnished 
with shred lettuce. 

LOBSTER IN ASPIC CREAM— Also called 
' 'Mazarins of Lobster". Lobster meat in slices, 
molds thinly lined with aspic and decorated 
with coral, truffles and egg whites. Aspic 
cream made by taking a pint of light colored 
aspic jelly, melt it and place in a bowl sur- 
rounded with broken ice, add to it a short half 
cup of white wine vinegar, two tablespoonfuls 
of granulated sugar, a level teaspoon of dry 
mustard, two teaspoons of salt and a seasoning 
of red pepper, beat with a whisk, and as soon 
as it thickens add oil and vinegar alternately, a 
little at a time till of a mayonnaise consistency, 
finish with a dash of lemon juice; when ready, 
add the lobster meat, fill into the decorated 
molds, and when finally set, wipe the mold with 
a hot cloth, turn out on the dish, decorate with 
green stuff and serve. 

LOBSTER CHEESE— Same as the preceding, 
but the molds not decorated (larger molds); 
when serving, the meat cut in slices like head 
cheese. 

DEVILLED LOBSTER— The lobster boiled, 
cooled, split in halves, all meat taken from the 
shells without breaking them, the inside of shell 
then brushed with olive oil or butter. Fry some 
minced shallots with the brown meat of the 
claws in butter, add little white sauce, season 
with salt, red pepper and Bengal chutney; when 
thick, add the lobster meat cut in small squares, 
then fill the shells, sprinkle with bread crumbs 
and melted butter, brown off in a brisk oven 
and serve garnished with cress. 

SCALLOPED LOBSTER— Also called "Lobster 
au gratin". Equal quantities of lobster meat 
and button mushrooms cut in small squares, 



102 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



added to a reduced Bechamel sauce, with lob- 
ster coral or lobster butter and a little glaze, 
fill into lobster shells as in the preceding, finish 
off and serve as above. 

LOBSTER CROQUETTES— Lobster meat and 
button mushrooms in equal quantities cut into 
very small dice, measure them, and for each 
pint, allow a pint of Veloute sauce; boil the 
sauce till reduced one third, then work in some 
lobster butter and a liaison of egg yolks and 
cream, then add the lobster meat and mush- 
rooms, stir thoroughly, turn out into a buttered 
pan, cover with a sheet of oiled paper; when 
cold and firm, shape into croquettes, bread, 
fry; serve with Perigueux, Poivrade or tomato 
sauces. 

LOBSTER CUTLETS— Same as the preceding, 
forming them into shape to imitate a mutton 
chop, using the small claws to imitate bone 
handle. 

RISSOLES OF LOBSTER— Same preparation 
as for croquettes, but instead of breading them, 
they are rolled into paste and fried. 

LOBSTER PATTIES— Lobster meat cut in dice, 
mixed into a lobster sauce, patty shells filled 
with it, top placed on; served on ornamented 
dish paper. 

BOUCHEES OF LOBSTER— Same as the pre- 
ceding but smaller, (bouchee means mouthful). 

STUFFED LOBSTER— The croquette prepara- 
tion filled into lobster shells, covered with 
sifted crumbs, basted with butter, baked brown 
and served. 

STEWED LOBSTER— Lobster meat simmered 
in a flour and butter sauce, seasoned with vin- 
egar, mustard and red pepper, finished with a 
glass of sherry wine; served on very hot toast, 
garnished with lemon slices. 

BROCHETTE OF LOBSTER— Slices of lobster 
meat from the tail, and very thin slices of par- 
boiled bacon, arranged alternately on a skewer, 
rolled in a mixture of melted butter, seasoned 
with Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper and 
nutmeg, broil, carefully turning them; served 
on a slice of very hot toast, with a little Maitre 
D'Hotel butter. 

BROILED LIVE LOBSTER— At least that is 
what it is called, but the lobster is dead im- 
mediately the head is split, even though the 
flesh may quiver. The lobster split, the un- 
eatable parts removed, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, placed within a wire hinged broiler, 
brushed with butter, broiled; served with 
melted butter and lemons. 

CURRIED LOBSTER— Lobster meat made hot 
in a good curry sauce lightly flavored with 
anchovy essence; served within a border of dry 
boiled rice. 

LOBSTER SANDWICH-Mash some cheese and 
lobster coral, add mustard, pepper and salt to 



taste, mix into a smooth paste with tomato 
catsup, place between thin buttered bread, cut 
on the bias and serve on a lettuce leaf. 

LOBSTER TOAST— Minced lobster meat sea- 
soned with salt and red pepper, then moistened 
with rich cream, made thoroughly hot and 
served on buttered toast. 

LOBSTER, BORDELAISE— Lobster meat sau- 
teed with a little minced onion, moistened with 
equal quantities of Madeira and Chablis wines, 
reduce to half glaze, then add equal parts of 
Espagnole and tomato sauces, bring to the boil, 
finish with chopped parsley and cayenne; serve 
in chafing dish. 

LOBSTER NEWBURG— Meat of two lobsters 
cut in inch pieces with some sliced truffles, 
saute in butter for five minutes, then add a half 
cup of Madeira wine and reduce to one half; 
beat a cupful of cream with five egg yolks, add 
it to the lobster, shuffle about till thick; serve 
in a chafing dish. 

SALPICON OF LOBSTER— Diced lobster meat, 
truffles and mushrooms added to a reduced 
Bechamel sauce; served either in paper cases 
or fancy croustades. 

BAKED LOBSTER IN SHELL— Lobster meat 
cut into very small dice, seasoned with salt, red 
pepper, mustard, onion juice, Worcestershire 
sauce, chopped parsley and Bechamel sauce, 
filled into lobster shells, covered with bread- 
crumbs, basted with butter, baked brown and 
served. 

LOBSTER WITH TOMATOES— Small pieces 
of lobster in Bechamel sauce, small tomatoes 
stuffed with it, placed inverted in patty pans, 
steamed; served hot with lobster sauce or cold 
with aspic jelly, or masked with aspic mayon- 
naise. 

LOBSTER OMELET— Lobster meat in lobster 
sauce, enclosed within an omelet; served with 
Aurora sauce down the sides. 

ESCALLOPED LOBSTER— Lobster meat cut 
in dice made hot in either Normande or Hollan- 
daise sauces, filled into scallop shells or oval 
dishes, strewn with breadcrumbs and melted 
butter, browned off and served. 

FRICASSEE OF LOBSTER— Lobster meat cut 
in slices, made hot in a rich Veloute sauce, 
finished with a liaison of egg yolks and a dash 
of lemon juice; served garnished with strips of 
buttered toast or toasted crackers. 

LOBSTER AND OYSTER PIE— Individual pies 
for restaurants and clubs; blanched oysters and 
lobster meat in equal quantities, a thick lobster 
sauce thinned a little with the oyster liquor, 
individual pie dishes with the lobster and 
oysters, moistened with the sauce, strewn with 
chopped parsley, covered with puff paste, egg 
washed and baked, (A RATTLING GOOD 
SELLING DISH). 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



LOBSTER SOUP— Equal parts of fish broth and 
white stock thickened with roux, boiled up and 
skimmed, seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
Harvey sauce, into the soup tureen place lob- 
ster meat cut in dice together with the claws 
and upper shell of the lobsters that have been 
pounded and rubbed through a fine sieve, add 
the strained soup with a glass of sherry wine; 
serve with croutons. 

LOBSTER SOUP, CREOLE STYLE— Court- 
bouillon mixed with an equal quantity of Creole 
sauce, boiled and skimmed, the soup tureen to 
contain diced lobster meat, boiled rice, and a 
little chopped green mint, add the soup and 
serve. 

LOBSTER SOUP, MARINER'S STYLE-Court- 
bouillon seasoned with carrot, turnip, onion, 
celery and anchovy essence, thickened with 
corn starch, simmered till clear, soup tureen to 
contain lobster meat, lobster butter, small 
claws, small boiled onions, soup poured to it 
with a little sherry wine and served. 

LOBSTER MULLIGATAWNEY-Make amulli- 
gatawney soup from court-bouillon, soup tureen 
to contain lobster meat and a little dry boiled 
rice, soup poured to it and served. 

BISQUE OF LOBSTER— Meat of fresh boiled 
lobsters cut in dice, the tough parts with the 
shells and claws boiled for 20 minutes, the 
coral dried in a slow oven, little rice boiled in 
fish broth, make a thin Bechamel sauce from 
fish broth, add the liquor from the shells, 
then the rice and coral, rub the whole through 
a tamis, bring to the boil again and skim, then 
pour it to the diced lobster meat; serve with 
lobster quenelles in each plate. 

BISQUE OF LOBSTER— Pieces of ham, salt 
pork, parsley, sweet herbs, onions, lobster 
meat and shells fried together with butter, lit- 
tle flour then added, moistened with fish broth, 
boiled an hour, then rice added and boiled till 
tender, the whole then rubbed through a tamis, 
seasoned, finished with sherry wine; served 
with croutons. 

LOCUSTS — A curious sight in the market place 
of FEZ is the daily arrival of wagon loads of 
locusts. With the Moors who inhabit this part 
of North Africa, locusts form a regular article 
of food; they are eaten in almost every style, 
pickled, salted, dried or smoked, but never raw. 
The negroes on the northern coast of Africa 
show a great partiality for locusts and eat from 
200 to 300 at a sitting. They remove head, 
wings and legs, and boil them for half an hour 
in water, take out and drain, ssason with salt 
and pepper, then fry with vinegar. 

MACARONI— Name of a preparation of wheat 
flour and water, that which is of home manu- 
facture being equally as good in grades as the 
imported. 



103 

MACARONI, ITALIAN S T Y L E —Macaroni 
broken into three-inch lengths and put to boil 
with a seasoning of salt and a pat or two of 
butter; when done, turned into a colander and 
drained dry; meantime heat some tomato sauce 
and work into it a little butter and glaze. Into 
a buttered pan place a layer of the macaroni, 
moisten it with the sauce, then strew with 
Parmesan cheese, renew this operation till pan 
is full, strew the top plentifully with cheese, 
bake for half an hour in medium oven and 
serve hot. 

MACARONI AND CHEESE (PLAIN)— Break 
the macaroni and boil in salted water with a 
pat of butter till done, then drain, place back 
into the sautoir and add to it a cupful each of 
melted butter, Parmesan cheese, grated Swiss 
cheese, and cream, toss it well over a quick 
fire; serve garnished with fancy croutons. 

BAKED MACARONI AND CHEESE— Also 
called "macaroni au gratin"; the preceding 
when prepared, turned into a buttered pan, 
strewn with equal parts of grated cheese and 
breadcrumbs, sprinkled with melted butter, 
baked a delicate brown and served. 

MACARONI (as the Monks like it)— Macaroni 
broken, boiled and drained, then mixed with a 
rich puree of pounded anchovies and mush- 
rooms. 

MACARONI AND CHEESE (FRENCH 
STYLE) — Broken lengths of macaroni boiled 
20 minutes, drained, turned into a buttered 
pan; mix into each pound half a cup of melted 
butter and a cupful of coarsely chopped cheese, 
to this add a quart of liaison made of water, 4 
eggs and a little flour, place in a medium oven 
for ten minutes, then pour over all, without 
stirring, a pint and half of Bechamel parsley 
sauce, bake brown and serve. 

MACARONI AND TOMATOES — Macaroni 
broken, boiled and drained; returned to sau- 
toir, and to each pound of macaroni add half a 
pint each of minced cheese, brown sauce, and 
roast meat gravy, also a pint of thick stewed 
tomatoes; when thoroughly reheated it is ready 
to serve; or it may be turned into a buttered 
pan, sprinkled with cheese and simmered for 
half an hour in a medium oven. 

MACARONI AND OYSTERS, MILAN STYLE 
— Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, placed 
in layers in buttered pan, the top of each layer 
covered with drained raw oysters, a sprinkling 
of melted butter, pepper and salt; when full, 
the whole moistened with a thin cream sauce, 
baked till set. Cooked and served in individual 
dishes this is a good seller in clubs and res- 
taurants. 

MACARONI, CREOLE STYLE— A pound of 
macaroni broken, boiled and drained, one large 
onion minced with two cloves of garlic and 
fried in oil; when of a pale brown, add two 



104 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



minced red peppers and a quart of tomato 
sauce, then add the macaroni, simmer and 
serve. 

MACARONI, GENOISE STYLE — Macaroni 
broken, boiled and drained, then kept hot. 
Equal parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces 
mixed and fetched to the boil; served, sauce in 
bottom of shallow dish, macaroni on it, this 
then strewn with Parmesan cheese. 

TIMBALES OF MACARONI— Macaroni boiled 
and drained, then cut into inch lengths, sea- 
soned with Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt; 
to each pound of the macaroni is then added a 
half pint each of sliced button mushrooms, 
braised chicken livers and smoked tongue, a 
truffle or two, the whole mixed and slightly 
moistened with Italian sauce. Timbale molds 
buttered, coated with cracker meal, filled with 
the mixture, brushed with butter, baked brown, 
turned out; served, a little Spanish sauce on 
dish, timbale in centre, the top piled high with 
Parmesan cheese. 

MACARONI WITH LOBSTER BUTTER— 
Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, a deep 
pan buttered, layer of macaroni, on it is spread 
lobster butter, that again strewn with Par- 
mesan, then a little Bechamel sauce, repeat till 
pan is full, then place in oven and thoroughly 
heat without browning; served in portions 
decorated with slices of lobster meat alternated 
with slices of truffle. 

BUTTERED MACARONI— Macaroni broken, 
boiled and drained; while still hot, each por- 
tion served by putting a spoonful of melted 
butter in oval dish, then the macaroni, tossed 
in the butter and strewn while tossing with 
Parmesan cheese. 

MACARONI WITH FISH FLAKES— Proceed 
as in recipe given for macaroni and oysters; 
substituting either flakes of boiled fresh cod- 
fish, redsnapper, salmon, salmon trout, white- 
fish or pike for the oysters. 

MACARONI WITH LAMB KIDNEYS— Maca- 
roni broken, boiled and drained; lamb kidneys 
sliced and sauteed with butter; buttered pan, 
layer of macaroni, on it, a layer of the kidneys, 
moisten with tomato sauce, repeat till pan is 
full, the top then covered with slices of hard 
boiled eggs, these thickly strewn with Parme- 
san cheese, placed in oven till of a delicate 
brown, then served. 

MACARONI WITH SPINACH PUREE— Mac- 
aroni broken, boiled and drained; spinach well 
washed, boiled, drained, rubbed through sieve, 
moistened with rich roast veal gravy; buttered 
pan, layer of macaroni, then spinach; strew 
with Parmesan, repeat till full, then bake half 
an hour in a medium oven, and serve. 

TIMBALE OF MACARONI AND FORCE- 
MEAT — Macaroni boiled in full lengths, 



drained; buttered mold, macaroni coiled close 
all round the inside, filled with a f orcemeat of 
chicken, then steamed till firmly set, turned 
out; served with white Italian sauce poured 
over. 
MACARONI WITH SAUSAGES — Macaroni 
broken, boiled and drained; pork sausages 
boiled, skinned and cut into slices; buttered 
pan, layer of macaroni, then sausages, strewn 
with grated cheese, repeat till full, then a rich 
veal gravy poured over, baked half an hour in 
a medium oven, then served. 
MACARONI CROQUETTES— Macaroni boiled 
and drained, cut in small pieces, returned to 
sautoir, to which is then added grated ham and 
tongue, minced mushrooms and truffles, Parm- 
esan cheese and a little thick Veloute sauce; 
reheat thoroughly, turn into a buttered pan 2 
or 3 inches deep, cover with buttered paper and 
allow to set firm; then stamp out with the larg- 
est sized column cutter, the columns then 
rolled in Parmesan cheese, then breaded, fried 
and served with Trianon sauce composed of 
equal parts of Bearnaise and reduced tomato 
sauces, carefully mixed together. 
MACARONI PUDDING— Macaroni broken, 
boiled with sweetened milk, grated lemon rind 
and a stick of cinnamon; when done drained, 
the milk returned to the fire, brought to the 
boil, thickened with a liaison of egg yolks, 
cream and a little corn starch; when to cus- 
tard thickness, removed, seasoned with nutmeg; 
macaroni in deep buttered pan spread with 
preserves or marmalade, the custard poured 
over, baked and served. 
MACARONI WITH HAM— Take cold ham trim- 
mings, put through a mincing machine, use it 
instead of cheese, and bake, au gratin. 
MACARONI CREAMED WITH EGGS— Mac- 
aroni broken, boiled and drained, then tossed 
over a quick fire with butter; meantime make 
some scrambled eggs with cream, equal the 
amount of eggs with Parmesan cheese, add both 
to the hot macaroni, keep hot and serve as 
called, (do not let it boil). 
MACARONI WITH TOMATO PUREE— Mac- 
aroni broken, boiled and drained; tomato 
puree thick, containing a little grated ham and 
a slight flavor of garlic, layers of each strewn 
with Parmesan in buttered pan till full, bake 
and serve. 
MACARONI SOUP— Macaroni broken, boiled 
and drained, add to a rich beef broth, or in 
tomato soup, or chicken broth, etc. When 
turning the soup into the tureen on steam table, 
place some Parmesan cheese in the bottom, or 
else serve a butter chip full with each portion, 
(club or restaurant service). 
CREAMED MAC ARONI— Macaroni broken, 
boiled and drained, returned to sautoir, moist- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



105 



ened with V&oute sauce; served strewn with 
Parmesan and garnished with puff paste crou- 
tons (made in leaf shape from trimmings). 

MACE — The inner shell that covers the nutmeg; 
used in its blade form as a flavoring to soups 
and sauces; in its ground or powdered form, 
as a flavoring to sweet sauces, puddings, mince- 
meats, cakes, etc. 

MACEDOINE— A French term used to indicate 
a mixture of fancy cut vegetables or fruits; the 
former either plain or mixed with sauce is used 
in soups or as a garnish, the latter generally in 
sweet jellies. 

MACKEREL — A fine salt water fish enjoyed by 
most people; it should not be washed, wipe it 
dry with a clean cloth, cut off the fillets, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, score the skin lightly, 
squeeze a little lemon juice on the flesh, broil 
it skin side down first, serve it with maitre d' 
hotel butter, garnish with Julienne potatoes, 
and you have the dish of an epicure. 

BOILED MACKEREL— Draw and wipe the 
fish, boil it plain in salted water; serve with 
melted butter separate, garnish with Hollan- 
daise potatoes and half a lemon. 

BOILED MACKEREL— Head removed, cut in 
halves across, drawn, wiped, boiled in sea- 
soned fish broth containing an onion, bunch of 
parsley and a little Chablis wine; when done 
(about 12 minutes) serve either with parsley, 
caper, olive, drawn butter or Ravigote sauces. 

BUTTERED MACKEREL— Fillets of mackerel 
wiped dry, placed into a sauce made of melted 
butter seasoned with anchovy essence, a little 
mustard, lemon juice, ground mace and red 
pepper, stew slowly for twenty minutes, then 
serve. 

BROILED STUFFED MACKEREL— Draw the 

fish and wipe dry; make the stuffing of cold but- 
ter with a very little fresh grated bread crumbs, 
chopped chives and shallots, lemon juice, salt 
and pepper, stuff the opening where drawn, roll 
in buttered paper, tie the ends, broil slowly till 
done, remove the paper; serve at once garnished 
with green stuff and lemon. 

BAKED FILLETS OF MACKEREL— The fish 
wiped and filleted, the fillets baked and basted 
with maitre d' hotel butter; served with a 
brown fish sauce centaining chopped chervil, 
tarragon, minced truffle peelings and a flavor- 
ing of port wine. 

FRIED MACKEREL, BUTTER SAUCE— Fil- 
lets of mackerel wiped, seasoned with lemon 
juice, salt and red pepper, dipped in flour, 
then into beaten eggs, fried in hot fat; served 
with lemon butter sauce, garnished with Parisi- 
enne potatoes. 

FILLETS OF MACKEREL, SAUTES— The 
fillets wiped seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
lemon juice, rolled in flour, sauteed with but- 



tei ; served with a brown fish sauce at the sides, 
garnished with green stuff and lemon. 

SOUSED MACKEREL — Heads and tails re- 
moved, the fish drawn and wiped, arranged in 
pan with whole peppers, allspice, bay leaves 
and cloves, cover them with equal quantities of 
white wine vinegar and water, bake slowly for 
one hour, serve cold, either plain or with Rav- 
igote sauce. 

BAKED STUFFED FILLETS OF MACKEREL 
— Split, bone and wipe the fish, season with 
salt and pepper, quickly set the cut side by 
lightly frying in butter; make the stuffing of 
fresh grated breadcrumbs moistened with Alle- 
mande sauce and seasoned with minced fried 
shallots, chopped parsley, anchovy essence and 
Harvey's sauce; spread it on the fried side, 
smooth, arrange on buttered baking sheet, 
bake; serve garnished with potato croquettes 
and lemon. 

BOILED SALT MACKEREL— No. 1 mess are 
the best; soak them overnight in cold water, then 
rinse in clear running water, then lay them for 
an hour in milk, put to boil in cold water, when 
done, serve with melted butter, maitre d'hotel, 
mustard, or parsley sauces. 

BROILED SALT MACKEREL— Extract the 
salt as in the preceding, then wipe dry after 
taking them out of the milk, season with pep- 
per, brush with butter, broil; serve with melted 
butter, garnished with parsley and lemon. 

MADEIRA— Name of a wine. Sauces, cakes, 
ices and jellies so named are supposed to con- 
tain some of it, which rarely happens, sherry 
and Marsala usually being substituted. 

MADELINES— Name given to small cakes baked 
in fancy patty pans, made of a pound mixture, 
viz: a pound each of butter, sugar, sifted flour, 
eggs (ten) and a wine glass of cognac; some 
also add sultana raisins, currants and candied 
peels. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL— Name applied to a sauce 
and a garnish (the literal meaning of the name 
is a steward). The sauce is composed of melted 
butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice, and 
is used chiefly with broiled meat and fish; quar- 
tered boiled potatoes in the sauce is the garnish 
for boiled fish; and quartered lemons with the 
meat is the garnish. 

MALLARD— Name of our best and largest wild 
duck. 

ROAST MALLARD, AMERICAN STYLE— The 
birds plucked, singed, drawn and trussed, then 
roasted rare 30 to 40 minutes, jointed, the 
joints kept hot; the carcasses stewed down with 
herbs and seasonings, sauce made from it, fin- 
ished with currant jelly and port wine, served 
with the joints. 

MALLARD, PROVENCALE STYLE — The 
birds plucked, singed, drawn, stuffed, trussed, 



Io6 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



roasted and served in portions with the gravy 
from the birds mixed with shallot sauce. 
BROILED MALLARD, MAITRE D'HOTEL— 
The birds plucked, singed, split down the back; 
back and breastbones removed, laid skin down- 
wards in a pan, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
olive oil, marinaded in this for 15 minutes, 
then broiled rare; served with maitre d'hotel 
butter and garnished with water cress. 
FRIED MALLARD, ORANGE SAUCE— The 
The birds prepared, split down the back, back 
and breastbones removed, thigh bone snapped, 
marinaded for an hour in olive oil with a few 
chopped onions, parsley and mushroom ketch- 
up, taken up, fried rare with a little olive oil; 
served with Bigarade sauce. 
FILLETS OF MALLARD, GAME SAUCE— 
Prepare and roast as for American style above; 
when done, take off the fillets, stew down the 
carcasses in game sauce with a few shallots, 
port wine and a piece of game glaze, strain 
through a fine chinee cap, finish with cayenne 
and lemon juice; served with the portions. 
SALMIS OF MALLARD — The birds plainly 
roasted very rare, jointed, the joints skinned; 
carcasses and skins then boiled down with 
herbs, cloves, whole peppers, bay leaves and 
fried shallots; when reduced, made into a 
sauce, strained and skimmed, finished with a 
little glaze and port wine, joints then put in 
and simmered for 15 minutes, afterwards kept 
hot but not allowed to boil; served garnished 
with croutons. 
MANGO — Name of a most superb torrid climate 
fruit, about the size of a large lemon, the inter- 
ior of a pulpy nature attached to a stone in size 
like that of a large peach stone. On account of 
its perishability in transport, we obtain it 
chiefly as a pickle, jelly, chutney or preserve. 
MARASCHINO— A very fine liqueur of Italian 
origin, obtained from the Marasca cherry, 
plum and peach kernels; used both as a drink 
and a flavoring to jellies, ices, sauces, puddings, 
meringues, etc., etc. 
MARINADE — A pickling mixture made of oil, 
vinegar, lemon juice; salt, pepper, herbs, Wor- 
cestershire sauce, anchovy essence, onions, 
bay leaves, whole peppers, whole cloves, and 
parsley, the different ingredients above being 
variously added to the oil; vinegar or lemon 
juice according to the fish, flesh or fowl to be 
marinaded, the article being steeped for an hour 
or so prior to being cooked so as to either en- 
rich or bring out the flavor in cooking. 
MARJORAM — Name of a garden herb used as a 
flavoring to soups, sauces and stuffing for fish 
and fowl. 
MARMALADE — Another name for jam, marma- 
lade being the word mostly used in this coun- 
try. Recipes for its making are found under 
the fruit headings which can be used. 



MARRONS — French name for chestnL.s. The 
French take the large nuts and preserve them 
by candying, then export them either in cans 
with syrup, or crystalized. 
MARROW — The contents of leg of beef bones, 
especially the bone of the buttock, which runs 
between the thick flank, topside and silver side, 
the buttock generally being termed the round. 
The top side of the buttock makes very fine 
steaks indeed, and in England fetches 25c per 
pound; the silver side of the buttock being used 
for boiling either fresh or salt, and fetches 16c 
per pound. The marrow bone should be sawn 
in three pieces, the marrow taken out, blanched 
in boiling milk and water for a minute, cooled, 
then cut in slices to lay on a steak, over which 
may be poured fines-herbes sauce, or it may be 
cut in pieces and mixed with chopped mush- 
rooms, onion and parsley, and filled into paper 
cases that have been buttered and lined with 
breadcrumbs, then baked and served; or into 
fancy paste croustades; or it may be cut into 
small dice, seasoned, mixed with cream and 
beaten eggs, filled into patty pans lined with 
puff paste and baked; or again simmered in 
white Italian sauce and used as a bcuchee or 
small patty filling; again cut into long pieces, 
dipped in a frying batter, fried and served with 
a tomato puree; made into quenelles by adding 
an equal quantity of bread crumbs, a little 
flour, salt, pepper and egg yolks, pound, rub 
through a sieve, form with spoons, then poach. 
MARZIPAN — Name given to an almond paste 
used by confectioners; made of 14 ozs. of sweet 
almonds, two of bitter, one pound of powdered 
sugar, a flavoring either of orange flower or 
rose water; the almonds are blanched, dried, 
pounded with the sugar and flavoring to a paste, 
then put into a preserving pan and stirred 
over the fire till it clings in a mass to the spat- 
ula, it is then formed into rolls, cut in slices 
and baked in a very cool oven till of a light 
brown color, or forced through a bag and tube 
into ring shapes, dusted with sugar and baked. 
MASTIC — An aromatic resin used for flavoring 

chewing gum. 
MATELOTE — Name of a fish stew or garnish for 
fish, (a la Matelote means in sailor's style). 
See garnishes. 
MAYONNAISE — Name of a salad dressing, also 
as a decorative sauce for cold fish. Made with 
a pint of olive oil, half a pint of white vinegar, 
juice of two lemons, five raw egg yolks, one 
ounce of dry mustard, salt and red pepper to 
taste; place the cold yolks and mustard in a cold 
bowl, thorougly mix, then drop by drop stir in 
one-fou-th of the oil, when like butter gradually 
thin wi^h some of the liquid, then add the salt, 
when it will be found to have thickened right 
up again; then finish stirring in the remaining 
oil and liquid at alternate intervals, finish with 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



107 



the red pepper (some add a little powdered 
sugar with the pepper). When finished it 
should be thick enough to mask a fish or salad 
without running off. 

ASPIC MAYONNAISE— Equal parts of mayon- 
naisse and bright aspic jelly barely melted, 
beaten together, used to set mazarins. 

MAZARINS— Molds of decorated fillets of fowl, 
game or fish, set with aspic mayonnaise, turned 
out when cold and firm, decorated and sent to 
table. 

MEDALLIONS — Name given to medal size and 
shaped pieces of savory foods, such as foie-gras, 
potted tongue, ham, etc., jellied meats. They 
are always nicely decorated and generally used 
as an appetizer or hois d'oeuvre. 

MELONS — Name of a fruit largely contained of 
water; the watermelon and the different varie- 
ties of canteloupe; the latter being used gener- 
ally as a breakfast appetizer, and the former as 
a dinner dessert; preserved watermelon rind 
makes a fine preserve for the summer tea. 

MELON PRESERVE— Cut the watermelon rind 
into small pieces, place 20 lbs. into a tub, 
sprinkle it well with a pint of salt, just cover 
it with cold water and allow it to marinade for 
five hours, then drain, and again cover it with 
cold water and soak for two hours, changing 
the water three times, then drain, put on the 
fire in a preserving pan, cover with boiling 
water, bring to boiling point, then drain again; 
make a syrup of ten pounds of sugar and six 
quarts of boiling water, boil and skim, then add 
the melon rind, and slowly simmer till tender; 
skim out the rind, place it on draining sieves 
for two hours in a warm place to set; when 
hardened place into cold crocks; boil up the 
syrup again with the sliced peel and juice of 
eight lemons and two ounces of sliced ginger, 
boil ten minutes, then strain over the fruit in 
the crocks. 

MENU — French term for "bill of fare". Why 
should the word MENU head our American 
dinner bills? Why should the progressive Ameri- 
can ape dying France? Why should the Ameri- 
can culinary student detest the kitchen be- 
cause he cannot twist his tongue around the 
French culinary a la this and that? Is not the 
American flag dear to the American? Then 
why not the American language? Does not the 
farmer, mechanic, layman and every American 
who patronizes hotel, restaurant and club life 
know the meaning of the term "bill of fare"? 
Then why put the French word "MENU" at the 
head, and the generally mongrel Frenchy terms 
throughout the bill of fare? When in Rome do 
as the Romans do; then when in America do 
as the Americans do. Let those from France, 
or the French scholars, read the plain home- 
like American language on our bills of fare, the 
same as the traveling American has to read the 



Menus in the languages of Europe. They do 
not print the Menus in France in the American 
language; then why should we print our Ameri- 
can bills of fare in French, or as is generally 
the case in half French and half American? 
For example: "Veal cutlet a la Francaise," 
or "Small patties de volaille," why not put 
Small patties of chicken"? Everyone knows 
what chicken is and will order it, but all do not 
know that volaille translated means fowl. 

One of my first thoughts in writing this 
handbook zt'as to abstain from French terms. 
I said to myself, I WILL WRITE AN AMERI- 
CAN CULINAR Y HANDBOOK FOR AMERI- 
CANS. I have heard it frequently stated that 
the terms for the bill of fare could not be prop- 
erly represented in the American lariguage. 
I SA Y IT CAN, and as a proof positive you 
have it here. There are no French terms used 
for the receipts of this book, and the headings 
as given are what should in my opinion be 
placed on the bill of fare, as perfectly adequate 
in describing the dish. 

MERINGUE — Name given to a mixture made 
by whipping whites of eggs to a stiff froth, 
then working in sugar, and sometimes flavor- 
ings and colors; used as a covering to cup 
custards, puddings, cream pies, shortcakes, 
floren tines, etc. , as an icing for cakes; also when 
of a firm mixture forced through a bag and tube 
into shapes, then baked dry without much color, 
the insides are then scooped out and used as a 
receptacle for ices, ice creams, creams, etc. 

MILANAISE — Name of a garnish composed of 
strips of white chicken meat, red ham, black 
truffles and pipe macaroni worked into a veloute 
sauce, finished with a little Parmesan cheese. 

MILT — Name of the soft roe of fish. 

MINCEMEAT — Ten pounds of sound cooking 
apples chopped fine, ten pounds of raisins 
seeded and chopped, five pounds of currants 
thoroughly cleaned and freed from grit, ^ 
pound each of orange and lemon candied peel, 
two pounds of citron all shredded, ten pounds 
of granulated sugar, a mixture of ground spice 
(made of five grated nutmegs, a dessert spoon- 
ful each of cloves, mace, allspice, cinnamon 
and black pepper), seven and a half pounds 
each of beef suet and boiled lean beef chopped, 
half a cup of salt, mix well, then moisten with 
the juice of ten oranges, a quart each of gocd 
brandy and Jamaica rum and enough old cider 
to form a stiff consistency. 

MINT — A garden herb, used as a soup and sauce 
flavoring; mint sauce for lamb made by finely 
chopping fresh green mint, then place it in a 
tureen adding to it the grated rind and juice of 
a lemon; bring to the boil with enough sugar 
to be palatable, one pint of good vinegar, pour 
it to the mint, let cool and serve. 



io8 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



MOLASSES — A thick liquid obtained from sugar 
in its process of refining; used for cakes, pud- 
dings, candy, etc. 

MULLET— A small sea fish of the Southern 
coasts, seldom seen at table, as the gray is too 
common, and the red too scarce. The red 
should be just wiped, the entrails drawn, leav- 
ing the liver and trail in the fish, roll them in 
olive oil, sprinkle with parsley, broil them in 
paper cases and serve with Italian, Ravigote 
or fine herb sauce. The gray mullet may be 
treated in any of the forms applicable to herrings 

MUSHROOMS — An edible fungi, umbrella 
shaped, dark gills, with easily removable skin; 
if those sold you have white gills and the skin 
will not strip easily, but breaks off in bits, dis- 
card them, they will probably be found to be 
toadstools. At least 70 per cent, of the mush- 
rooms used in culinary preparations are canned 
button mushrooms and morels. Fresh mush- 
rooms are seldom used in sauces on account of 
their color. The following recipes will use 
canned, except where stated. 

PUREE OF MUSHROOMS — Canned button 
mushrooms minced, sauteed with butter for five 
minutes, moistened with veloute sauce, reduce 
quickly, then add some thick cream and lemon 
juice, reduce five minutes more, then rub 
through a tamis for use. 

MUSHROOM GARNISH— Canned mushrooms 
drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
boiled down with a seasoning of salt, lemon 
juice, butter and a little white stock, when 
nearly dry, the liquor added, the whole then 
put into a thick Allemande sauce and used to 
garnish white entrees, or put into a rich Espag- 
nole-sauce to garnish brown entrees. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS.ITALIAN SAUCE— 
Large fresh mushrooms skinned, stalk removed, 
placed skin side downward in a buttered baking 
pan, filled with the following: Mince the stalks 
with some shallots, parsley, fat bacon, lean 
ham and thyme leaves, saute them in olive oil 
for five minutes, then work in some egg yolks, 
season with salt and pepper; when filled, 
sprinkle with breadcrumbs and melted butter, 
bake till nicely browned (about 20 minutes); 
serve with brown Italian sauce poured around, 
garnish with fancy croutons. 

BAKED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST— Medium 
sized fresh mushrooms skinned and fhe stalks 
removed, wash in cold water containing a dash 
of vinegar, drain, arrange in a buttered baking 
pan skin side downward; into each then place 
half a pat of butter, bake till done (about 20 
minutes) basting with the butter once or twice; 
serve on buttered toast garnished with tufts of 
fried parsley. 

BROILED MUSHROOMS— Large fresh mush- 
rooms skinned and the stalks removed, dipped 



in melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
placed in wire hinged broiler, broiled till done; 
meantime slice the stalks very thin and saute 
them with butter and a little chopped parsley; 
serve the mushrooms on toast, or as an accom- 
paniment to steaks, cutlets, etc., adding the 
sauteed stalks. 
MUSHROOMS IN CROUSTADES— Small fresh 
button mushrooms peeled, washed, drained, 
sauteed with butter, chopped chives and pars- 
ley, seasoned with salt and pepper, just moist- 
ened with Allemande sauce and a dash of lemon 
juice filled into fancy paste, or fried bread 
croustades and served. 

SAUTE OF MUSHROOMS— Medium sized fresh 
mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, sauteed 
with butter and minced shallots, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, moistened slightly 
with chicken broth, then reduce; serve on toast, 
or on platter garnished with strips of buttered 
toast, or as a garnish. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS, CREOLE STYLE 
— Medium sized fresh mushrooms peeled and 
washed, stalks removed and minced with a lit- 
tle celery and green peppers, saute the mince in 
olive oil, then moisten with chicken liquor, re- 
duce, then thicken with fresh grated bread- 
crumbs, remove from fire and add strips of 
truffle peelings, chopped parsley, salt and pap- 
rika, fill the mushrooms, smooth, brush with 
beaten eggs, press on some breadcrumbs, 
arrange in a shallow sautoir, saute on both 
sides, when nicely browned, take up and serve 
on toast with Creole sauce separate. 

STEWED MUSHROOMS— Canned mushrooms 
drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
fried light brown with butter, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, when brown add a little flour, 
shake, moisten with the liquor, juice of lemons, 
Espagnole sauce and sherry wine, simmer and 
skim; when bright, use as a garnish to larded 
fillet of beef, etc. 

FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS— Canned but- 
ton mushrooms drained, the liquor reduced, the 
mushrooms fried a light brown with butter and 
minced shallots; when colored, drained, and 
placed with the reduced liquor into a rich 
Poulette sauce, season with nutmeg, salt, cay- 
enne and lemon juice; served on toast, in cases, 
croustades, or as a garnish to white entrees. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE— Canned mushrooms 
drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
sauteed lightly with butter, then added to a 
Veloute sauce with the reduced liquor, season 
with cayenne and lemon juice for white entrees, 
or use Madeira or Espagnole sauces for brown 
entrees. 

CREAMED FRESH MUSHROOMS-Fresh but- 
ton mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, 
thick pure cream fetched to the boil, mush 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



109 



rooms cooked in it till done (about 7 minutes), 
season with salt and cayenne; serve in chafing 
dish. 
MUSHROOM CATSUP— Fresh mushrooms 
wiped (not washed) and placed into crocks 
in layers till full, each layer being well 
sprinkled with salt; when full, cover with a 
folded cloth and stand in a warm place for 24 
hours, then mash and strain through a very 
coarse towel or a sack; to each gallon of the 
liquor thus obtained add a quarter of a pound 
of whole peppers and simmer for half an hour, 
then add one ounce of whole cloves, one ounce 
of whole allspice, two ounces of bruised ginger 
and half an ounce of whole mace, simmer for 
another half hour, then remove from fire; when 
cold, strain through a jelly bag, bottle, cork 
and seal. 
STUFFED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST— Fresh 
mushrooms, the stalks minced and sauteed with 
a few shallots and parsley, added then to a lit- 
tle minced chicken in sauce Supreme, the 
mushrooms stuffed with it and baked; served on 
circles of buttered toast. 
FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS— Fresh mush- 
rooms peeled, broiled on outside till brown, 
simmered in thin Bechamel sauce till done; 
served with fancy croutons. 
MUSHROOM RISSOLES— A quart of minced 
fresh mushrooms, two minced medium sized 
onions, pepper, salt, a pinch of ground mixed 
herbs, simmered in thick sauce till the onion is 
done, a spoonful then placed in rounds of pas- 
try, edges folded over, pinched round, sprink- 
led with breadcrumbs and fried in oil. 
MUSHROOM OMELET— Use either canned or 
fresh mushrooms, saute till tender with a few 
minced shallots, drain, add them to a Madeira 
sauce, simmer, make the omelet, enclose the 
mushrooms, pour the sauce around it and send 
to table. 
MUSCALLONGE— A large fish of the pike 
species found in the great lakes; may be cooked 
and served in all the ways for pike (which see). 
MUSSELS — A large almond shaped shellfish 
found along the coasts, equally as good as oys- 
ters, but on account of their cheapness not so 
much used; are eaten raw the same as oysters, 
but generally first blanched, the usual way be- 
ing to thoroughly wash the shells, then to 7^ 
fill a saucepan with them, adding just a little 
water, put on the lid, then steam till they open 
their shells, when the fish is removed, they may 
then be used as follows: 
SCALLOPED MUSSELS— Large fat mussels 
raw, simmered till plump in a little fish broth 
with bay leaf, thyme and parsley; taken up, 
drained, added to a thick Bechamel sauce, filled 
into scallop shells, smoothed over, sprinkled 
with breadcrumbs and grated cheese, browned 
off and served. 



BROCHETTE OF MUSSELS— Blanched mus- 
sels threaded on skewers, dipped in melted 
butter and breadcrumbs twice, then broiled, or 
may be dipped in butter and fried in deep fat. 

FRIED MUSSELS — Raw mussels drained, rolled 
in flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a golden 
brown in a little very hot fat in a frying pan. 

FRICASSEE OF MUSSELS— Blanched mussels 
in Hollandaise sauce; served on toast sprinkled 
with parsley dust. 

STEAMED MUSSELS, LEMON BUTTER 
SAUCE — Blanched mussels simmered in mai- 
tre d'hotel butter; served on strips of hot toast, 
sauce poured over them. 

STEWED MUSSELS— Blanched mussels, boil- 
ing milk 2 /t,, mussel liquor strained }/$, butter, 
salt, red pepper; same as oyster stew. 

STEWED MUSSELS— Blanched mussels, thin 
white sauce made of % milk and J/3 strained 
mussel liquor, mussels added with chopped 
parsley, salt and red pepper; served with oyster 
crackers or thin brown bread. 

MUSSELS BREADED, VILLEROI SAUCE— 
Blanched mussels dipped into cooling Villeroi 
sauce; when set, dipped into sifted bread- 
crumbs, then egg and breadcrumbs, fried in 
dripping a golden color; served garnished with 
tufts of fried parsley, and lemon. 

MUSSELS SAUTES WITH FINE HERBS— 
Blanched mussels sauteed with butter, minced 
chives, parsley, garlic and sifted breadcrumbs, 
seasoned with salt and pepper; served in cases. 

MUSSEL SAUCE— Blanched mussels in sauce 
Normande. 

CREAMED MUSSELS— Raw mussels dropped 
into hot butter and sauteed till plump, Becha- 
mel sauce then added, simmered; served on 
toast with sauce poured over. 

MUSSELS, ITALIAN STYLE— Raw mussels 
sauteed in butter with minced onions; when 
onions are slightly brown, the oysters taken up 
into a sautoir, tomatoes added and reduced till 
thick, then added to the mussels with white 
sauce and chopped parsley; seasoned with salt, 
pepper, butter and a dash of anchovy essence; 
served in scallop dishes garnished with sippets 
of toast. 

MUSSELS, FISHERMEN STYLE— Raw mus- 
sels dried between cloths, butter fried to a nut 
brown, mussels then added and fried till plump, 
taken up; light brown sauce then made with the 
butter, flour, salt, pepper and fish broth, mus- 
sels arranged on toast, sauce poured over and 
served. 

PAN ROAST OF MUSSELS— Raw mussels 
dropped into frothing butter and fried till 
plump, seasoned with salt and cayenne; served 
on strips of toast with enough of the liquor to 
moisten it, sprinkled with parsley dust and 
garnished with cress and lemon. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



MUSTARD — A yellow flour produced by finely 
grinding the seeds of the mustard plant; prepared 
for table as a condiment by simply mixing to a 
thick cream with cold water and a taste of salt. 
The French prepare mustard for table use by 
boiling together equal quantities of tarragon 
and cider vinegars, pouring it to the mustard 
flour and when thickened, simmered a few min- 
utes, meanwhile adding a flavoring composed 
of white wine which has had soaked in it in a 
warm place for an hour or so some celery 
seeds, whole spices and a clove of crushed 
garlic, salt and a taste of sugar. 

MUSTARD AND CRESS— These are the first 
sproutings of the cress seed and the mustard 
seed, used in equal proportions mixed, after 
being thoroughly washed and drained. To 
form sandwiches between brown bread and 
butter simply sprinkled with salt, or used as a 
breakfast salad by lightly tossing with a sprink- 
ling of salt, olive oil and lemon juice. 

MUTTON — What a tremendous difference there 
is in mutton, brought about by its different 
pastures and breeds. The steward should al- 
ways buy WETHER mutton, leaving the 
EWES entirely alone, unless they are MAID- 
ENS. The best cutting sheep are from sixty 
to seventy pounds in weight. The skin should 
be dry. Leave the oily skinned ones alone as 
they will eat TOUGH. See that they are mod- 
erately lean by noting the shoulder meat show- 
ing through the skin, and also that the meat of 
the leg outwards can be seen through the skin 
extending well down towards the loin. Cheaper 
to buy the whole sheep and use all its parts 
(except the head) then to keep on buying racks, 
racks, racks. The butcher is going to cut those 
racks LONG, and you have to cut off two or 
three inches, before you can send them to the 
broiler, and the chops then come very expen- 
sive. The loin chops which are infinitely the 
best should be used with the neck chop, one of 
each, thus making the pair of chops usually 
called for, the trimmed bone of the neck one 
carrying the frill and a croquette tip stuck into 
the loin one. In cutting up the sheep, split it 
straight through the spinal column, then sep- 
arate the quarters, cut off the legs close to the 
pin bone. The loin will yield three half pound 
trimmed chump chops, and ten six ounce 
trimmed loin chops. With the forequaiter, 
lift off the shoulder, cut off the breast, then cut 
off the scrag with the first two bones of the 
rack adhering; you now have eleven neck chops 
to each quart2r, or forty-eight chops to the 
sheep, two legs and two shoulders for joints, 
the breasts and scrags for the multitude of en- 
trees and the helps hall. 

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON— Cut off the 
shank bone, put to boil in cold water with salt 
whole carrots and white turnips; when done, 



take up, cut the vegetables into finger sizes; 
make a white sauce from the stock, adding 
capers and caper vinegar; serve in portions 
with the sauce at ends of dish, using the vege- 
tables as a garnish. 

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON— Cut off the shank 
bone, rub with salt and pepper, dredge with 
flour, roast till done with frequent basting, 
take up, pour off surplus fat from the pan, add 
a little flour to the remaining gravy, moisten 
with stock to make a sauce, strain, add capers 
and caper vinegar, or let it remain plain and 
serve with each portion some red currant jelly 
separate. 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON— Cut off the 
shank bone, put the leg into a brasiere with 
some fat bacon trimmings, onions, carrots, bay 
leaves, bunch of sweet herbs, whole peppers 
and allspice, moisten with mutton stock, place 
on the lid, then put the whole into a hot oven, 
cook till done and glazy, take up, then reduce 
the braise to half glaze, strain, skim; serve 
with the portions and red currant jelly separ- 
ate; or you may garnish it with glazed balls of 
carrot and turnip, also some glazed small 
onions. 

BRAISED STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON— 
Bone the leg, and where the bone was, insert a 
filling composed of minced mushrooms, pars- 
ley, shallots, grated ham, little grated lemon 
rind, seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg, mix 
these well, then work in some forcemeat, sew 
up the openings, place the stuffed leg into a 
brasiere with carrots, turnips, celery, clove of 
crushed garlic, whole cloves and mace, moisten 
with stock, braise and glaze; when done, take 
up, and reduce the braise, strain and skim it, 
add it to a Veloute sauce containing capers; 
serve with a stuffed tomato at ends of dish, with 
the sauce poured around. 

BRAISED LARDED LEG OF MUTTON- -Bone 
and stuff the leg of mutton as in the preceding 
recipe, then lard the outside with seasoned 
strips of bacon, place in brasiere with carrot, 
turnip, onion, celery, bunch of sweet herbs, 
cloves and mace, moisten with stock, braise 
and glaze, take up when done, reduce the re- 
maining braise, strain and skim it; serve with 
onion puree at one end of the dish, potato cro- 
quette at the other, and send the sauce to 
table separate. 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON, WITH BEANS 
— Cut off the shank, insert six cloves of garlic 
into the leg at different places, braise with vege- 
tables and spices, take up when done, then re- 
duce, strain and skim the braise. Meanwhile 
boil some navy beans; when done, drain, and 
mix them into a sauce of brown onion puree; 
serve the portions of mutton on top of a spoon- 
ful of the sauced beans, pour a little of the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



braise around and garnish with a few Parisi- 
enne potatoes. 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON WITH VEGE- 
TABLES — Bone the leg, season it inside with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and thyme, sew up, braise 
with vegetables and spices, take up when done, 
reduce, strain and skim the braise; serve garn- 
ished with glazed young carrots, ' small whole 
new turnips, flowerets of caulifflower, green 
peas, points of asparagus, small new potatoes, 
quartered artichoke bottoms, a macedoine or 
jardiniere, stringless French beans (haricots 
verts), flageolet beans, new lima beans, stuffed 
cucumber, baked tomatoes, etc., etc. If when 
using any of the moistened garnishes by them- 
selves, place it on the bill of fare as Braised 
leg of mutton with such and such garnish. 

ROLLED SHOULDER OF MUTTON, OYS- 
TER SAUCE — Bone the shoulder; where the 
bone was, spread with oyster croquette mix- 
ture, roll up tight, tie closely with string, 
place it in a steamer and steam till done; serve 
in portions with white oyster sauce; or if after it 
has been steamed two-thirds done, take it up and 
finish cooking in a sharp oven, take out when 
of a deep fawn color and serve it with brown 
oyster sauce. 

BOILED MUTTON WITH TURNIPS— Use 
either the leg or the shoulder, boil it medium 
done in salted water with a few root vegetables; 
serve portions on a bed of mashed turnips, with 
caper sauce around the base. 

STUFFED BREAST OF MUTTON, SAUCE 
ROBERT — Lean breast of mutton, pocket 
made the entire length between the meat and 
rib bones, filled with a stuffing made of sausage 
meat mixed with minced onions, parsley, mush- 
rooms and a few fresh breadcrumbs, sew up the 
opening, steam till done; serve in portions with 
sauce Robert. 

BREAST OF MUTTON WITH TURNIPS— 
Lean breasts of mutton boiled tender in sea- 
soned broth; when done, bones removed, 
pressed till cold and firm, then cut in strips, 
breaded, fried; served on a bed of mashed tur- 
nips with gravy round the base. 

ROLLED STUFFED BREAST OF MUTTON 
— Broad cut lean breasts of mutton, boned, 
spread with veal or chicken forcemeat, rolled, 
tied with twine, baked slowly in roast mutton 
gravy; served garnished with a jardiniere of 
vegetables. 

BRAISED BREAST OF MUTTON, ITALIAN 
SAUCE — Breasts of mutton simmered in sea- 
soned broth till the bones are easily removed, 
then press till cold, cut in triangular pieces, 
braise them in the reduced stock they were 
simmered in, then take up and strain the braise 
into a brown Italian sauce, which serve with 
the portions. 



GLAZED BREAST OF MUTTON — Lean 
breasts of mutton boiled till tender in seasoned 
broth, taken up and boned, then pressed till 
cold, cut in pieces, seasoned with salt and pep- 
per, saute in butter, then place in hot demi- 
glaze; serve garnished with small glazed onions. 

FRIED BREAST OF MUTTON— Breasts of 
mutton boiled tender in seasoned stock, taken 
up, boned, pressed, cut in shapes, dipped in 
beaten egg, rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, ar- 
ranged in a buttered baking pan, sprinkle with 
melted butter, browned and frothed in a sharp 
oven; served surrounded with tomato sauce. 

BROILED BREASTS OF MUTTON— Lean 
breasts of mutton steamed long enough to draw 
the bones, taken up, skin scored, a seasoning of 
powdered thyme, salt and pepper then rubbed 
in, dipped in beaten egg, then in fresh bread 
crumbs; placed two whole breasts at a time in 
wire hinged broiler, broiled, basted with butter; 
when nicely browned, served in two-inch wide 
strips with piquante sauce under the meat. 
This dish is well appreciated at breakfast or 
luncheon. 

HARICOT OF MUTTON— Lean breasts of mut- 
ton in strips seasoned with salt and pepper, 
fried quickly a light brown, taken up into a 
sautoir, sprinkled well with flour, shaken to- 
gether, moistened with seasoned broth, brought 
to the boil and skimmed; column cut slices of 
root vegetables fried in butter with a little 
sugar, drained, added to the meat, the whole 
then simmered till half an hour before done, 
small balls of raw potatoes then added with 
small sauteed onions, finish cooking, season with 
salt and Paprika; served with the vegetables as 
a garnish. 

CURRY OF MUTTON WITH RICE — Lean 
breasts of mutton in strips seasoned with salt, 
rubbed with curry powder, sauteed with butter 
a light brown color; taken up into a sautoir, 
sprinkled and well shook with flour and little 
more curry powder, moistened with seasoned 
white broth, brought to the boil, skimmed, 
rings of sauteed onions then added, simmered 
and skimmed till done; serve within a border of 
dry boiled rice. 

IRISH STEW— Lean breasts of mutton cut in 
strips, blanched, rinsed, put back into a clean 
sautoir with balls or column cut slices of root 
vegetables, moisten with white stock, simmer 
and skim; when nearly done, balls of raw pota- 
toes added; finish cooking, thicken with flour 
and butter, season with salt and pepper; serve 
sprinkled with chopped parsley. 

RAGOUT OF MUTTON WITH TOMATOES— 
Lean breasts of mutton in strips, fried a light 
brown with butter and shallots, taken up into a 
sautoir, sprinkled and shook well with flour, 
moistened with mutton gravy, simmered and 
skimmed, seasoned with salt, pepper and pap- 



112 

rika; served garnished with a stuffed tomato at 
one end, and balls of glazed turnips at the 
other. 
RISSOLES OF MUTTON, SAUCE HOLLAN- 
DAISE — Cold pieces of stewed mutton free of 
bones, minced finely, seasoned with salt 
chopped parsley, paprika, thyme and mace, 
mixed into one-third of its bulk of fresh mashed 
potatoes; when thoroughly mixed, allow to be- 
come quite cold, then form into finger lengths 
like sausages, double bread, fry; serve with 
Hollandaise sauce. 

CASSEROLES OF MUTTON— Make a stiff po- 
tato croquette mixture, shape pieces of it lite a 
patty, double bread and fry; now cut a lid 
scoop out the inside, thus leaving a case, fill the 
interior with mutton mince of the preceding 
recipe (heated), put on the lid, keep them hot; 
with the potatoes you scooped out, form into 
Duchesse potatoes and use as a garnish. 

HASHED MUTTON WITH PEPPERS— Cold 
breasts of mutton from any of the forgoing 
recipes, cut small in dice shape, sauteed with 
minced onion, moistened with some Espagnole 
sauce. Green peppers, tops cut off, insides 
scooped out, double blanched, drained, filled 
with the mince, gratinated, slowly baked and 
basted till of a nice brown color; served with a 
rich tomato sauce poured around. 

BREADED MUTTON CHOP WITH BEANS 
PUREE — Best neck chops seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in beaten egg, then bread- 
crumbs, fried medium done with butter; navy 
beans boiled, drained, rubbed through a tamis, 
little Bechamel sauce added, used as a bed on 
which to lay the chops; served with a demi-glaze 
around the base. 

MUTTON CHOPS SAUTES, SAUCE SOU- 
BISE — Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned 
with salt and paprika, sauteed with butter and 
minced shallot; served on a bed of onion puree 
mixed with Veloute sauce, garnished with fancy 
croutons. 

MUTTON CHOP WITH POTATO BORDER— 
Best neck chops trimmed, fried a golden brown 
in butter, fresh mashed potatoes mixed with a 
little chopped parsley forced through a bag and 
tube around the dish, chop in centre with 
maitre d'hotel butter spread on it. 

BREADED MUTTON CHOP WITH MUSH 
ROOM PUREE— Best neck chops trimmed, 
seasoned with salt and paprika, breaded, fried 
with butter; mushrooms stewed in Veloute 
sauce till soft, then rubbed through sieve; chop 
served resting on fancy shape of buttered toast 
with the puree around. 

MUTTON CHOPS, PROVENCE STYLE— 
Trimmed neck chops sauteed half done with 
butter, equal parts of onion and mushroom 
purees with a flavor of garlic and a little 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



chopped parsley, brought to the boil, thickened 
with egg yolks, stirred till of a thick paste; 
this spread od one side of the chop, arranged 
in a buttered baking pan, sprinkled with Par- 
mesan cheese, finished in a quick oven; served 
with a brown sauce poured around. 

MUTTON CHOP WITH GLAZED NEW CAR- 
ROTS — Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned 
and broiled medium done; new carrots trimmed, 
blanched, then sauteed till tender with butter 
and a little sugar, taken up, drained, then 
tossed in maitre d'hotel sauce; served as a 
garnish to the chop. (Plain broiled chop as in 
the recipe here given may be served with a 
garnish of either Bretonne puree, stuffed egg 
plant, stewed okras, haricots verts, macedoine 
or jardiniere of vegetables, flageolets, green 
peas, vegetable puree, fried parsley, spinach 
puree, mashed potatoes, sauteed balls of turnip, 
and simply named on the bill of fare as Mutton 
chop with such or such garnish, as prepared). 

MUTTON CHOP WITH TRUFFLES — Loin 
chops trimmed, seasoned, broiled; served with 
a Madeira sauce containing plenty of sliced 
truffles. 

COATED CUTLETS OF MUTTON— Trimmed 
loin chops, quickly sauteed with butter half 
done, dipped into a thick sauce containing 
minced ham and mushrooms, they are then 
breaded and slowly fried till done; served rest- 
ing on a fancy crouton, or they may be coated 
with an onion puree and served with a Soubise 
sauce. 

MUTTON CHOP, SOUTHERN STYLE- Loin 
chops trimmed, seasoned, sauteed till done with 
butter and minced shallot; served on a fancy 
crouton garnished with a mold of dry boiled 
rice, a stuffed baked tomato and some stewed 
okras. 

MUTTON CHOP WITH PEAS PUREE— Loin 
chops trimmed and partly sauteed, then dipped 
into a thick yellow parsley sauce, breaded, fried; 
served on a bed of peas puree and surrounded 
with Veloute sauce. 

BAKED MUTTON CUTLETS WITH APPLES 
— Take the chops of the the neck under the 
shoulder, place them in a buttered pan with 
some sliced apples and onions, season with salt 
and pepper, just cover with a nice clear gravy, 
place another pan over as a lid, bake about 45 
minutes, remove when glazy; serve the chop in 
centre of dish with apples at one and onions at 
other side, garnishing the ends of dish with 
fancy croutons. 

MUTTON CHOPS FRIED, ITALIAN SAUCE— 
Best neck chops trimmed, spread with a sauce 
containing minced onions, little garlic, Parme- 
san cheese and hard boiled egg yolks rubbed 
through a sieve; when set, double breaded, 
fried and served with a brown Italian sauce. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BREADED MUTTON CHOP, SAUCE PERI- 
GUEUX— Best neck chops trimmed, spread 
with a thick truffle sauce; when set, double 
breaded, fried; served with Perigueux sauce. 

MUTTON CUTLETS FRIED, REFORME 
GARNISH — Loin chops trimmed, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, dipped in beaten eggs, 
then in grated ham, again in eggs, then in a 
mixture of grated ham and fresh breadcrumbs, 
arranged in buttered baking pan, placed in a 
medium oven, browned and basted with butter; 
served with a garnish of shredded ham, slices 
of carrots and truffles, also rings of whites of 
hard boiled eggs in a sauce Supreme. 

MUTTON STEW WITH VEGETABL ES— 
Scrags and lean breasts of mutton cut in neat 
pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, sauteed 
a golden color in butter with a few small onions, 
flour then added to form a roux, moisten with 
boiling stock, then boil up and skim, season to 
taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a clove of 
garlic; when half done, cubes of carrot and 
turnip then added, also some lima beans, sim- 
mer till done; serve. (Varieties of stew as 
above may be made by garnishing with rice 
timbales and small stuffed tomatoes instead of 
the vegetables; also instead of the vegetables, 
use stewed tomatoes and an extra clove of gar- 
lic; or using a plain garnish of either green 
peas, flageolets, stringless beans, butter beans, 
haricot beans, glazed new carrots, braised 
stalks of celery, fried egg plant, rice and okras; 
small white turnips hollowed out, steamed, 
then filled with a macedoine, jardiniere; green 
peas, flageolets, etc., potato croquettes, slices 
of stuffed cucumber, stuffed artichoke bottoms, 
etc., and named accordingly). REMEMBER 
ALWAYS THAT IT IS THE STEWS 
WHICH KEEP DOWN THE KITCHEN 
EXPENSES, AND ARE ALWAYS IN 
STRONG DEMAND BY THE PATRONS, 
IF WELL COOKED, SEASONED, AND 
VERY NEATLY GARNISHED; IT THEN 
APPEALS TO THE EYE AND ITS SAVORI- 
NESS TO THE PALATE. DO NOT LET 
YOUR VEGETABLE OR FRY COOK JUST 
DISH IT OUT ON TO THE PLATTER 
WITH A LADLE SIMPLY BECAUSE IT IS 
A STEW; PLACE THE MEAT NEATLY 
ON A DISH, THEN GARNISH IT WITH 
CARE. 

HASHED MUTTON IN PEPPERS— Four lbs. 
of cold cooked mutton cut in small dice, four 
medium sized onions minced and lightly fried 
with butter, then added to the mutton, mix, 
then moisten with a little Espagnole sauce, 
season to taste, then bring to a simmer. Two 
dozen medium sized green peppers, tops cut off, 
seeded, double blanched, then filled with the 
hash; gratinate the tops, bake in a slow oven to 



113 
tomato sauce 



a delicate brown; served with 
poured around. 

CROUSTADES OF MUTTON WITH POACH- 
ED EGG — Cold roast mutton cut in small dice, 
then placed in a sautoir and moistened with a 
light consomme and a pint of demi-glaze to 
each four lbs. of meat. Reduce it to about half 
over a medium fire; half a dozen each of green 
peppers and shallots minced and lightly fried 
with butter then added to the hash, mix; fill in- 
to fancy croustades to order, placing on top of 
each a freshly cooked and trimmed poached 
egg, garnish with watercress. 

MUTTON CHOPS WITH BUTTERED CORN 
— Take a rack of mutton, remove the meat 
from the bone in one piece, trim, cut it up into 
four ounce cutlets, season with salt and pepper, 
broil between a wire hinged broiler a golden 
brown; meanwhile cut corn from hot cooked 
cobs, season with salt and cream, fill into oval 
dishes, cover the top with breadcrumbs and 
sprinkle with melted butter, bake brown 
quickly; when done, place a chop on the corn, a 
few JulienDe potatoes around the edge, and 
send to table. 

MUTTON CUTLET SAUTE WITH FINE 
HERBS — Trimmed chump chops fried with 
butter, fried minced shallots, parsley and 
mushrooms, sprinkled over when sending to 
table. 

MUTTON PIE, ENGLISH STYLE— Middle 
neck chops trimmed and shortened, arranged 
in a deep pie dish arcund the sides, the centre 
filled with balls of potatoes or small new ones; 
make a rich white sauce from strong mutton 
stock, season with pepper and salt, chopped 
parsley and capers, cover the mutton and pota- 
toes with it plentifully, place on a short crust, 
egg wash, bake one hour in a medium oven. 

BRAISED BONED LOIN OF MUTTON— Take 
a loin of mutton and remove the chine bone, 
(this can be done without injuring the meat by 
loosening the tenderloin first); where the bone 
was, fill with a stiff forcemeat, roll over the 
flap and tie with twine; arrange in a brasiere 
with vegetables and spices, moisten with stock 
enough to just cover the mutton, braise and 
baste till done and glazy; serve in portions with 
a garnish either of green peas, macedoine, jard- 
inere, asparagus tips, new carrots, stringless 
beans, small glazed turnips, stuffed and glazed 
cucumbers, flowerets of cauliflower, etc It 
should be noted that glaze should be over and 
around slightly the meat portion, and the veg- 
etable garnish should be moistened with either 
a Veloute, Bechamel or Allemande sauce. 

BRAISED MUTTON CHOPS, GARNISHED— 
Racks of mutton trimmed, chine bone loosened 
and the yellow gristle that runs the full length 
of the chine removed, arranged in the brasiere 
with carrot, onion, celery, parsley, whole cloves 



H4 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



and mace, moistened with stock just enough to 
cover, braised and basted till done and glazy, 
taken up, the braise strained and skimmed; 
served in chops, each chop rolled in the glaze; 
served garnished with small stuffed tomatoes, 
Brussels sprouts, glazed small onions, flageo- 
lets, green peas, asparagus tips, sauerkraut, 
new carrots or turnips, potato quenelles and 
stewed prunes (German style), potato cro- 
quettes, Soubise puree, jardiniere or a mace- 
doine of vegetables. 

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS, GARNISHED 
— Racks of mutton trimmed, chine bone and 
gristle removed, cut into cutlets, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, dipped into melted butter, 
broiled medium done of a golden color; served 
on a triangle of toast, garnished with either 
brown Italian, tomato, Provencale, Poivrade, 
piquante. shallot or fines-herbes sauces, or with 
mashed potatoes in shapes, mashed turnips, 
spinach puree, endive puree, Soubise puree, 
Bretonne beans puree, jardiniere, macedoine, 
asparagus tips, Brussels sprouts sautees. green 
peas, Julienne vegetables in Allemande sauce, 
small new potatoes boiled, then moistened with 
maitre d'hotel butter, puree of artichoke, chip- 
olata garnish, French beans (haricots verts), 
new lima beans, button mushrooms sautees, 
stuffed olives. 

NASTURTIUM— Name of a plant whose seeds 
are extensively used as a substitute for pickled 
capers. 

NAVARIN — A French word given to a brown 
mutton stew with vegetables, the same as our 
"haricot of mutton." 

NESSELRODE— Name given to an iced pud- 
ding, named after a Russian statesman, com- 
posed of a puree of chestnuts, whipped cream, 
glazed fruits, a flavoring of maraschino, mixed 
and frozen. 

NEUFCHATEL — Name of a cream curd cheese 
imported from Switzerland. But most of that 
used in hotel life is made in our own dairies 
and equally as good as the imported. 

NIVERNAISE — Name given to a garnish of 
Julienne vegetables mixed in Allemande sauce. 

NOISETTE — French name for nut. Sometimes 
seen on "bills of fare" as "Noisettes of mut- 
ton", "Noisettes d'agneau (nuts of lamb)", 
"Noisettes de veau (nuts of veal)". To prepare 
this'dishl will quote LEON CIEUX, a Parisian 
chef: 

"NOISETTES OF LAMB, A LA MAIN- 
TENON— Take the two fillets and small fil- 
lets (filets mignons) from a saddle of lamb, take 
out the nerves, trim them, and divide each fillet 
into six parts and the small fillets into three 
parts, beat them, season with salt and pepper, 
saute them quickly on both sides with clear 
butter; as soon as sauteed, put in a good Peri- 



gorde sauce, this stops the wasting and pre- 
vents the meat from giving up its gravy. Place 
each noisette of lamb on a crust of breadcrumb 
passed through butter and the shape of the 
noisette; arrange in a crown on the dish, cover 
each noisette with a Soubise a la Bechamel. 
Powder with grated Parmesan cheese, moist- 
ened with melted butter, glazed in a hot oven; 
pour in the middle of the dish some Perigord 
sauce, put on each noisettte a fine slice of truffle 
and serve hot, the cooking must be quick. This 
recipe is for twelve persons." 

I will here quote the author of the EPICUR- 
EAN, Charles Ranhofer. 

"NOISETTES OF MUTTON, AU MADERE 
— Cut eight chops of four ounces each from 
two racks of mutton. Remove the noix (centre 
of chop), beat them lightly, trim all to the same 
size, season with salt and pepper. Heat four 
ounces of butter in a frying pan, when it is very 
hot add to it the noix, saute them over a quick 
fire, taking care to turn them when they have 
a good color, let them cook several minutes 
more, arrange them on croutons of bread fried in 
butter and of the same size as the noix. Dry 
out the butter from the pan, add half a gill of 
Madeira, cook it down, add a little brown sauce, 
cook it down again until it is a light sauce, 
pass through the strainer and pour on the 
noix." 

NOODLES— A stiff paste made with sifted flour 
and yolks of eggs, then rolled out very thin in 
sheets, place several sheets one on another, 
then with a sharp knife cut in strips; for soups 
or to be used for all purposes in place of mac- 
aroni; for all the recipes given for macaroni, 
noodles may be substituted; from the sheets 
may be stamped out fancy shapes for decorating 
raised pies, etc. 

NOYEAU — Name of a very fine liqueur prepared 
from the kernels of fruit stones, almonds, 
brandy, gin, flavoring extracts and syrup. 

NUTMEG— The kernel of the fruit of the nut- 
meg tree. The fruit itself is in size and shape 
that of a small pear, which on ripening, bursts, 
exposing its kernel covered with a netting; this 
netting is known as mace, the kernel itself as 
nutmeg; it is used as a flavoring to soups, 
sauces, puddings, custards, etc. The nutmegs 
from PENANG are considered of most com- 
mercial value. 

OATMEAL — As the word implies it is the meal 
of oats; the oat grains are skinned, dried, then 
ground in a mill and placed into commerce as 
coarse and fine oatmeal. This is then used to 
make in conjunction with wheat flour, cakes, 
biscuits, bread, gruel, drinks, mush, puddings, 
thickening soups, etc., etc. A mistake is there- 
fore made when writing "bills of fare" to say 
"oatmeal porridge" unless you use the meal; 
and seldom is the meal used. It is customary 
nowadays to use rolled oats, flaked oats, and 
the different names given by manufacturers, 



THF CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



"5 



such as H. O., Quaker oats, etc., which are all 
rolled and not meal. Groats is the proper name 
for the dried oat grains which are neither 
crushed or ground. 

OKRA — Name of an American vegetable chiefly 
grown in the South; of a seed pod shape like 
the long pepper. It is preserved and canned, 
this being generally used in making gumbo 
soups when the fresh is not obtainable. The 
fresh is trimmed at both ends, boiled in salted 
boiling water till tender, taken up and drained, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and melted butter and 
served as a vegetable, or used as a garnish, or in 
conjunction with other vegetables as a garnish. 
The Creoles like it slippery, and after trimming 
it they place it in a sautoir with just enough 
water to moisten, cover with oiled paper, place 
on the lid and stew it till tender and muscilag- 
inous, then it is further seasoned with olive oil, 
salt, pepper and a little minced green or red 
peppers. Okras are esteemed stewed with 
tomatoes, keeping the okras whole; also by tak- 
ing peeled raw tomatoes and okras, cutting 
them both into quarters, then stewing with 
butter, pepper and salt; also the whole okras 
trimmed, then stewed tender in a rich tomato 
sauce; also tipped at both ends, breaded and 
fried, like egg plant. 

OKRA SALAD-Okras trimmed and boiled in boil- 
ing salted water, then drained and cooled; strip- 
ped endive washed and crisp arranged on dish, 
the okras quartered and laid on top, the whole 
sprinkled with a French salad dressing contain- 
ing chopped chives. 

OLIVES— The fruit of the olive tree, picked 
green, prepared and salted, then packed into 
barrels, kegs, etc., also put up in glass jars. Our 
own California olives have bsen brought to such 
perfection, that they are now found to be 
superior to the imported European, French, 
Spanish and Italian. Olive oil is prepared from 
the ripe fruit. Olives are used as an appetizer, 
either plain or stoned and stuffed; as a decor- 
ative to salads, as a flavoring to sauces, as an 
addition to garnitures, etc. 

OLLA PODRIDA— One of the national dishes of 
Spain; a rich soup stew, made in the style of a 
pepper-pot. A large earthernware pot into 
which is placed tomatoes, garlic, long peppers, 
chick peas, pieces- of root vegetables, chopped 
cabbage and endive, a piece of flank of beef, a 
fowl, a piece of streaky bacon and sausages. 
The sausages are made of equal quantities of 
minced lean and fat pork, seasoned with garlic 
and red pepper; when mixed, it is macerated in 
dry sherry wine for four days till it has ab- 
sorbed all it can, it is then filled into sausage 
casings, tied in links, hung till dry in a cool air. 
The contents of the pot are seasoned with salt 
and pepper, moistened with water, placed in 



medium oven and cooked till tender. It is 
served as a family dish by placing the vegetables 
at the bottom of a platter as a garnish to the 
three meats, the sausages on top of the vege- 
tables, and the broth poured over the whole. 

OMELET — Slightly beaten eggs seasoned with 
salt and a little melted butter so as to prevent 
it from sticking to the pan in cooking; see that 
the pan is free from any sticky substance on the 
inside, bottom and flange; place in a little melted 
butter, let it get hot (not burnt), pour in a ladle 
of eggs, shuffle around till nearly set, then take 
the handle in the left hand, depress the pan, 
then with the right hand knock the handle near 
the pan, and the omelet will roll up from the furth- 
est end, thus forming a roll with pointed ends, 
hold to the fire for a moment and the centre 
will puff up, turn on to a platter, garnish one 
end with a sprig of crisp cress or parsley and 
send the plain omelet to the table at once. 
I HAVE SAID POUR A LADLE OF EGGS, 
BECAUSE I HAVE FOUND THAT THE 
ORDERS ARE SERVED MORE EQUAL 
BY ITS USE. HAVE A LADLE MADE 
THAT WILL HOLD EQUAL TO THREE 
LIGHTLY BEATEN EGGS. ONE LADLE- 
FUL WILL BE FOUND THE RIGHT 
QUANTITY PER PERSON. 

OMELET WITH BACON— (Plain or with Pi- 
quante sauce). Cut the bacon into small dice, 
fry fairly well done, pour off the fat, pour in a 
ladle of eggs, mix and form; served with a sprig 
of green, or with Piquante sauce at the ends. 

OMELET WITH VEAL KIDNEYS— Roasted 
kidneys cut in dice and made hot in a little 
demi-glaze with chopped parsley, enclose the 
mixture within the omelet; serve with a 
Madeira sauce poured around. 

OMELET WITH CEPES— Cut the cepes into 
dice, fry in butter for a few minutes, pour off 
the butter, add a ladle of eggs, form and serve 
with a little Italian sauce at the sides. 

OMELET WITH CHEESE— Mix grated cheese 
with the beaten eggs in proportion of one-third 
cheese to two-thirds eggs, form the omelet; 
when placed on the serving dish sprinkle a lit- 
tle grated cheese on top of the omelet and 
brown off quickly in oven or under a salaman- 
der. 

OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS— Blanch 
the livers, then cut in dice, fry them lightly 
with butter, minced shallots and mushrooms 
for ten minutes, season with salt, pepper and 
chopped parsley, enclose a spoonful within the 
omelet while forming; served with Hanover 
sauce at the sides. 

OMELET WITH CHIPPED BEEF — Scald, 
drain and mince the dried beef, mix it with the 
eggs, form the omelet; serve with cream sauce 
poured around. 



n6 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



OMELET WITH HAM— Cooked minced ham 
moistened with Madeira sauce enclosed within 
the omelet. 2. Raw minced ham with a little 
minced shallot and parsley fried till done, ladle 
of eggs poured in, formed and served. 3, Minced 
fried ham beaten up with the eggs, poured into 
the omelet pan, formed and served. 

OMELET WITH LAMB KIDNEYS— Cut the 
kidneys into small dice and fry them with 
minced shallots in butter for three minutes, add 
a little Madeira sauce and chopped parsley, 
enclose a spoonful within the omelet while 
forming; serve with Madeira sauce poured 
around. 2. Stew the kidneys in a sherry wine 
flavored brown sauce, season well with red 
pepper or a minced red pepper; when done, 
strain the sauce on to some unsweetened apple 
sauce passed through a fine sieve; into the 
beaten eggs put some finely chopped green 
mint, enclose a spoonful of kidneys within the 
omelet while forming; serve with plenty of the 
sauce poured around. 

OMELET WITH SWEETBREADS-- Cooked 
sweetbreads cut in dice, simmered in mush- 
room sauce, a spoonful enclosed within the 
omelet while forming; served with mushroom 
sauce poured around. 

OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS— If fresh 
mushrooms, peel them, trim, cut into dice and 
fry with butter; if canned, cut them in thin 
slices and fry, drain, then mix them into 
Madeira sauce; enclose a spoonful within the 
omelet; serve with a spoonful of mushrooms in 
sauce at the ends of the omelet. 

OMELET WITH SHRIMPS, MEXICAN 
STYLE — Take fresh cooked or canned 
shrimps, cut in halves, mix with some finely 
chopped green peppers, put them into a Vel- 
oute!: sauce containing some lobster butter, sim- 
mer for five minutes, enclose a spoonful within 
the omelet, turn on to the serving dish, place two 
whole shrimps on top, and pour some of the 
sauce around. 

OMELET WITH FINE HERBS— Beat up with 
the eggs some finely minced shallots, thyme 
marjoram, chervil, chives and parsley, season 
with salt and pepper, form the omelet, and 
serve plain or with fine herbs sauce poured 
around. 

SPANISH OMELET — Finely shred onions, 
minced green peppers, minced mushrooms, 
solid tomatoes with the juice and seeds ex- 
pressed, cut in small pieces, the whole fried 
with butter for five minutes, then add tomato 
sauce, season with salt and pepper, reduce till 
thick, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, 
turn on to the serving dish, garnish the top 
with fancy strips of pimentoes and place a 
spoonful of the mixture at each end of the 
omelet. 



OMELET WITH SPINACH— Beat some puree 
of spinach with the eggs, season with salt and 
pepper, form and serve. 

OMELET WITH PARSLEY— Mix some finely 
chopped parsley with the beaten eggs, season 
with salt and pepper, form and serve plain or 
with Veloute sauce at the sides. 

OMELET WITH TOMATOES— Stew fresh or 
canned tomatoes with a little butter, sugar, 
salt and pepper till of a thick pulp, enclose a 
spoonful within the omelet; serve with tomato 
sauce poured around. 

OMELET WITH TOMATOED RICE— Take 
some boiled rice grains and moisten them with 
a good tomato puree, enclose some within the 
omelet; serve with tomato puree poured around. 

OMELET WITH OYSTERS— Scald the oys- 
ters, cut them in quarters, place them into a 
rich thick oyster sauce, enclose a spoonful with- 
in the omelet, turn on to the serving dish, place 
three whole scalded oysters on top, pour some 
oyster sauce over the whole and sprinkle with 
parsley dust. 

OMELET WITH FRENCH OR SMALL 
GREEN PEAS — Simmer some peas in reduced 
Veloute sauce with a little minced green mint, 
till thick, enclose some within the omelet, turn 
on to the serving dish, garnish each end with 
more of the peas and the sides with cream 
sauce. 

OMELET WITH EGG PLANT— Cut the egg 
plant into dice, fry it with butter, when done, 
add a little meat glaze, enclose within the ome- 
let; serve with a good brown sauce at the sides. 

OMELET WITH SPRING VEGETABLES— 
Cut a jardiniere or macedoine of vegetables (or 
use canned ones) boil till tender, drain, moisten 
with a little demi glaze or sauce Supreme, en- 
close within the omelet, turn on to the serving 
dish, decorate the top of omelet with more of 
the vegetables and pour some of the sauce 
around. 

OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS POINTS-Take 
cooked asparagus tips, reheat them in Alle- 
mande sauce, enclose within the omelet, turn 
on to serving dish, decorate the top with more 
tips, and serve with Allemande sauce at the 
sidee. 

OMELET WITH OLIVES — Stuffed ol i v e s 
sliced, heated in a rich Madeira sauce, enclosed 
within the omelet, turned on to serving dish, 
the top of omelet decorated with slices of stuffed 
olives; served with Madeira sauce at the sides. 

OMELET WITH ONIONS— Fry some thin 
slices of onions with a clove of garlic in butter, 
enclose within the omelet; serve with Souilbise 
sauce at the sides. 

OMELET WITH MINCED CHICKEN— Take 
minced cooked chicken, moisten it with Vel- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



oute sauce, make hot, enclose within the ome- 
let; serve with Veloute sauce at the sides. 
CREOLE OMELET— Chopped green peppers, 
onions, garlic, okras and a little boiled rice, 
made hot in a thick tomato sauce, enclosed 
within the omelet; served with a spoonful of 
the mixture at the sides. 
ALGERIENNE OMELET— Rissoto moistened 
and reheated with tomato puiee, enclosed with- 
in the omelet; served with tomato puree at the 
sides. 
OMELET WITH TRUFFLES— Slices of truf- 
fles moistened with truffle sauce, enclosed with- 
in the omelet; served with truffle sauce at the 
sides. 
OMELET WITH PUREE OF GAME— A rich 
game puree is enclosed within the omelet; 
served with game sauce at the sides. 
INDIAN OMELET— Minced onion lightly fried 
then mixed with the beaten eggs, adding a 
seasoning of curry powder and a spoonful of 
thick cream, boiled rice enclosed within the 
omelet; served with curry sauce at the sides. 
OMELET WITH CHICKEN PUREE— A rich 
puree of chicken enclosed within the omelet; 
served with Veloute sauce at the sides. 
MILAN AISE OMELET— Boiled macaroni 
chopped fine, mixed with Parmesan cheese and 
a spoonful of tomato puree, enclosed within the 
omelet; served with Milanaise sauce at the 
sides. 
OMELET WITH SHRIMP PASTE— Omelet 
spread with shrimp paste just before forming; 
served with shrimp sauce at the sides. 
SHRIMP OMELET— Chopped shrimps in Au- 
rora sauce enclosed within the omelet, turned 
on to the serving dish, the top decorated with 
coiled shrimps; served with Aurora sauce at the 
sides. 
OMELET WITH SC ALLOPS-Scallops blanched 
then fried with butter, cut in dice, moistened 
with Bechamel sauce, enclosed within the ome- 
let; served with the top decorated with a whole 
fried scallop, Bechamel sauce at the sides. 
OMELET FINANCIERE— A spoonful of finan- 
ciere garnish enclosed within the omelet; served 
with some more of the garnish at the sides. 
OMELET WITH CALF'S HEAD— Useful to 
use up the remains of entree "Calf's head, tur- 
tle style". Cut the meat small, enclose within the 
omelet; served with more of the garnish at the 
sides. 
OMELET WITH CAPON— Cold capon cut in 
dice and moistened with Veloute sauce, enclosed 
within the omelet; served with Supreme sauce 
at the sides. 
OMELET WITH CALF'S BRAINS— Scalded 
and trimmed calf's brains cut in dice and 
moistened with Hollandaise sauce, enclosed 



within the omelet; served with some Hollan- 
daise sauce at the sides. 

OMELET WITH TURKEY LIVERS— Braised 
turkey livers cut in scallops and moistened 
with fine herbs sauce, enclosed within the 
omelet; served with more of the sauce at the 
sides. 

OMELET WITH ANCHOVIES— Filleted an- 
chovies cut in shreds, moistened with Aurora 
or Genevoise sauces, enclosed within the ome- 
let; served with the sauce used at the sides, the 
top of the omelet to be garnished with strips of 
the anchovies in lattice work form. 

OMELET WITH FOIE-GRAS— Foie-gras cut 
in dice with a little chopped truffle peelings, 
moistened with Madeira sauce, enclosed with- 
in the omelet; served with Madeira sauce at the 
sides, the top of the omelet to be decorated 
with a slice each of foie-gras and truffle. 

OMELET CHIPOLATA— A spoonful of chipo- 
lata garnish (see garnishes), enclosed within 
the omelet; served with Madeira sauce at the 
sides, the ends of the omelet to be garnished 
with Parisienne potatoes. 

OMELET WITH JELLY— With the omelet 
mixture add a spoonful of cream and a very 
little sugar; before starting to roll the omelet, 
spread with jelly, then roll it up; when turned 
on the serving dish, dust with powdered sugar, 
mark the top in lattice work style with a red hot 
wire, place a little more jelly at the sides and 
serve. 

OMELET WITH MERINGUE— Little cream 
and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs, before 
rolling, spread with jam, then form; when on the 
serving dish, spread with meringue, decorate 
the meringue with point of knife, place in oven 
till of a delicate fawn color and serve at once. 

OMELET WITH CUSTARD CREAM— Little 
cream and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs, a 
spoonful of rich custard cream enclosed within 
the omelet, turned on to the serving dish; served 
with a little apricot puree at the sides. 

OMELET WITH MARMALADE— Little cream 
and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs; before 
rolling, spread with fruit marmalade, form, 
place on serving dish, dust with powdered 
sugar, then place in hot oven to glaze, or glaze 
with a salamander. 
OMELET WITH RUM- Little cream and sugar 
mixed with the beaten eggs, omelet formed, 
turned on to the serving dish, dusted with 
powdered sugar, marked with a red hot wire, 
rum made warm and poured around the omelet; 
then set on fire, either at the entrance to the 
dining room or on the table at the request of 
the guest. 
OMELET SOUFFLE— One teaspoonful of sugar 
to each egg, yolks and whites whipped separ- 
ately, the sugar and a teaspoonful of cream 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



with the yolks, then all stirred together, poured 
into oval dish or pan, baked partly on top of 
the range, then finished in oven; when nicely 
purled, dust with powdered sugar, and glaze 
with a salamander; the omelet mixture may be 
flavored with most any liqueur or cordial. 

ONIONS FRIED— Large sized onions peeled, 
cut in fairly thick slices, the rings then separ- 
ated, seasoned with salt, dipped in milk, then 
shaken up with flour till coated, fried till done 
in very hot deep fat like French fried potatoes; 
when done, drained, sprinkled with salt; served 
plain or as a garnish. 

ONIONS FRIED— Thinly sliced onions fried 
with butter, bacon fat, beef dripping, etc., till 
well done and brown, surplus fat then poured 
off; used as a garnish to steaks. 

ONIONS IN CREAM SAUCE — Small onions 
peeled, boiled in salted water till tender, taken 
up and drained, then put into cream sauce; used 
as a vegetable. 

BOILED ONIONS— Medium sized onions peeled, 
boiled well done in salted water, taken up and 
well drained, kept very hot; served with a spoon- 
ful of melted butter poured over them; used as 
vegetable. 

CREAMED ONIONS — Small button onions 
peeled, steamed till tender, drained, then put 
into a Poulette sauce; served as a garnish or 
vegetable. 

BAKED ONIONS STUFFED— Large onions 
peeled, steamed till nearly done, centres re- 
moved in ONE PIECE which can be used 
the following day for the recipe preceding, the 
aperture filled with sausage meat, baked and 
basted till brown and glazy; served with a 
little meat gravy poured around. 

ONIONS ON TOAST— Onions steamed till very 
well done, then mashed through a colander or 
tamis, seasoned, simmered with meat gravy; 
fancy cut slices of toast then spread thickly 
with the onions and served very hot, (a good 
thing for a cold on the chest). 

STEWED ONIONS— Onions cut in quarters, 
steamed till half done, then simmered in a pars- 
ley butter sauce till done; served as a vegetable. 

BRAISED ONIONS— Medium sized onions 
peeled, blanched, drained, arranged in a pan 
or brasiere, baked and basted with slices of 
bacon and its fat till brown and glazy; served 
as a garnish or vegetable. 

ONION SAUCE— Well boiled onions mashed 
through a tamis, slightly moistened with sauce 
made from mutton stock; to be served with 
boiled mutton. 

ONION SAUCE— Onions peeled and parboiled, 
then cut up small and blanched again, then 
allowed to simmer in a white sauce if to be 
served with boiled meat, and in a brown sauce 
if to be served with roast or braised meat. 



GLAZED ONIONS— Peeled onions of a uniform 
size arranged in a shallow sautoir, seasoned 
with salt, pepper and sugar, slightly moistened 
with stock, covered with a sheet of buttered 
paper, simmered till done and brown, and the 
liquor to a glaze. 

ONION PUREE — Onions peeled, blanched, 
drained, chopped, placed in a sautoir with but- 
ter and lightly fried without color, flour then 
added to form a roux, moisten with white or 
brown stock according to whether it is to be 
served with boiled or roast meat, simmer till 
very tender, season with salt and a little sugar, 
then rub the whole through a tamis. 

PICKLED ONIONS— Small button onions peeled, 
placed in crocks, boiling brine poured over 
them, allowed co stand for 24 hours, brine then 
drained off, onions then covered with scalding 
hot (not boiling) cider vinegar spiced to taste 
with mace, chilies, whole peppers and a little 
horseradish. 

ONION VINEGAR— Two quarts of white wine 
vinegar, one dessert spoonful of salt, two dessert 
spoonfuls of granulated sugar, two pounds of 
peeled Spanish onions; grate the onions, mix 
them with the sugar and salt, allow to macerate 
for three hours, then pour over the vinegar; fill 
fruit jars 73 full, screw the lid on, shske well 
every day for a couple of weeks, then strain 
off through cheese cloth, fill into bottles and 
cork tight; this is very useful when a delicate 
onion flavor is desired with mayonnaise, salads, 
etc. 

ONION SALAD— Take either the Bermuda or 
Spanish onion, peel, slice in rings % of an 
inch thick, steam till half cooked, let become 
very cold; serve on lettuce leaves with Ravigote 
sauce. 

ONION SOUP WITH CRUSTS— Make a thin 
cream of chicken soup, thinly slice half a pound 
of onions to each gallon of soup, fry them with 
butter to a golden color, then add them to the 
soup and simmer for ten minutes; served with 
a small unsweetened rusk to each plate. 

PUREE OF BERMUDA ONIONS— Bermuda 
onions lightly fried with butter and little sugar, 
flour added to form a roux, moistened with 
chicken stock, simmered till done, the whole 
then rubbed through a tamis, and added to J^ 
of its bulk of cream or cream sauce; served 
with croutons. 

A variation of the above recipe is, after it is 
passed through the tamis, place it back on 
the range, bring to the boil, then add a rich 
liaison of egg yolks and cream, finish with a 
little very finely chopped parsley, 

ONION SOUP WITH CHEESE CANAPES— 
A cream soup made of white stock with plenty 
of minced onions boiled in it till very tender, 
adding a little chopped parsley; fancy cut slices 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



119 



of toast spread with cheese and melted on in 
the oveu, one in each plate, the soup poured 
over it and sent to table. 

BROWN ONION PUREE— Fried onions, flour 
added to form a roux and browned, moistened 
with roast veal gravy and stock, the whole then 
rubbed through a tamis; served with croutons. 

ONION PUREE WITH FISH QUENELLES— 
Make the white "Puree of Bermuda onions" of 
a preceding recipe, and serve with quenelles of 
fish that may be on hand. 

BUTTON ONION SOUP WITH PEAS — A 
cream of chicken soup with plenty of very small 
button onions boiled in it, also fresh or canned 
green peas. 

OPOSSUM — A Southern animal found in hollow 
trees, hunted for by trained dogs, is killed, 
scalded, scraped, split, skin scored like a suckling 
pig, arranged in a pan surrounded with peeled 
and split sweet potatoes, roasted and basted till 
done; served with the potatoes and corn bread. 

ORANGE JAM — Four pounds of oranges, one 
pound of lemons, four pounds of sugar, one 
pound of butter, 32 yolks and 4 whole eggs. 
The fruit grated, the juice extracted, the juice, 
sugar and grated rinds then boiled together, 
butter melted and beaten up with the yolks and 
eggs, added to the boiling juice, constantly 
stirring till of a jam consistency; used for pie 
filling, layer cake spreading, filling darioles, 
cheesecakes, patty-pan tarts, etc., etc. 

BAKED ORANGE PUDDING— Two pounds of 
stale sponge cake; juice of 8, and grated rinds 
of 2 oranges, 1 cup of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, 6 beaten eggs, 1 pint of milk. 
Boil the milk, pour it to the sponge cake, whip 
it, add the juice, grated rinds and other ingre- 
dients, fill into molds, bake; serve with orange 
sauce. 

ORANGE FRITTERS— Large oranges peeled, 
pith removed, pulled into quarters, simmered 
for five minutes in boiling syrup, drained, 
dipped in frying batter (see batters), fried in hot 
deep fat, taken up, dusted with powdered sugar; 
served with claret sauce. 

COMPOTE OF ORANGES— Small oranges (the 
seedless variety) peeled, pith removed, blanched, 
drained, blanched again, then simmered in the 
left over syrup of the preceding recipe, the 
peel of the oranges boiled tender in two or three 
waters, then finely shredded and added to the 
syrup; when done, allow to become cold; served, 
an orange decorated on top with the shredded 
peel, the syrup poured around. 

CANAPE OF ORANGES— Oranges peeled and 
the pith removed, pulled apart in sections, the 
sections boiled for a few minutes in syrup, 
taken up and arranged on fancy shapes of bread 
that have been fried a golden brown with butter. 



ORANGE PIE — One dozen sound oranges cut 
into thin slices, seeds and cores removed, cov- 
ered with six quarts of water, allowed to soak 
for 24 hours, then put all on to boil; boil slowly 
for three hours, then add seven pounds of 
granulated sugar, and boil till clear, pour off 
into a crock, allow to set, and you then have 
the filling. Line pie plates with puff paste 
trimmings, making a raised edge, spread well 
with the filling, bake; when done, spread with 
an orange flavored custard, on it pipe a fancy 
meringue, brown quickly; serve. This is one 
of the most delicious pies it is possible to 
make. 

ORANGE MARMALADE— 24 oranges, 8 lem- 
ons; oranges peeled and the pith removed, the 
peel then boiled till tender, about three 
hours, changing the water three times, the 
first time it is put on in cold water, the chang- 
ing time in boiling water; when tender, drain, 
shred very fine; meanwhile extract every drop 
of juice from all the oranges and lemons, meas- 
ure it, then add one-fourth of its bulk of clear 
water, measure it again, and to every pint, add 
one and a half pounds of granulated sugar, 
then the shredded rinds, bring to the boil, 
skim, then continue boiling till thick enough to 
set. 

JELLIED ORANGES— Oranges with the stem 
end cut to form a lid, emptied of their contents 
with a spoon, the shells then soaked overnight, 
they are then drained, then half filled with a 
colored fruit jelly and allowed to set, then filled 
with another colored fruit jelly, closed, set 
away in ice till firm; served by cutting in halves 
or quarters, and arranging on serving dish with 
the colors alternating. 

ORANGE SAUCE— Roast duck carcasses boiled 
down with some Espagnole sauce, then 
strained, orange juice then added to taste for 
the quantity made, finely shredded and boiled 
rinds then added. [The natural sauce for roast 
domestic ducks]. 

ORANGES WITH RICE— Quartered and peeled 
oranges with the pith and seeds removed, 
boiled in syrup till tender, the syrup then 
thickened with corn starch and allowed to sim- 
mer till clear; when done, add a little maras- 
chino; to serve, dry boiled rice grains arranged 
as a border on an oval platter, the rice sprink- 
led with finely chopped pistachio nuts, the 
oranges and sauce in the centre, (this is always 
an acceptable sweet entree). 

ORANGE TRIFLE— Slice of orange-flavored 
sponge cake spread with marmalade, this spread 
with custard, the custard piped with whipped 
cream, the edges sprinkled with finely chopped 
pistachio nuts. 

ORTOLAN — A very small game bird, a native of 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Southern Europe. Our rice bird does duty for 
it here generally. 

ORTOLANS IN CROUSTADE— T h e bird 
plucked and singed, neck and gizzard only of 
the inside removed, season with nutmeg, salt 
and pepper; large truffles hollowed out, the 
bird placed in the truffle, arranged in a sautoir, 
with bacon over the breasts, moistened with a 
mirepoix and some Madeira wine, cooked about 
twenty minutes, taken up and placed in a fancy 
bread croustade; reduce the sauce in sautoir to 
a demi-glaze, remove the bacon, mask with the 
glaze; serve surrounded with watercress. 

ORTOLANS IN CASES— Make (or use the 
bought ones) a fancy paste croustade case, line 
it with foie-gras; ortolans plucked and singed, 
feet, beak and skin of head removed, truss, 
season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, place one 
in each lined case, cover with a strip of fat 
bacon, roast in moderate oven about 20 min- 
utes, remove the bacon; serve with a spoonful 
of Madeira sauce over the bird. 

BROILED ORTOLANS— Pluck and singe the 
birds, wipe with a damp cloth, remove beak 
and feet, truss, but do not draw, season with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, wrap in a buttered 
paper case, broil over a raked clean space of 
the grill, in ten minutes the bird will be done; 
serve with the paper, surrounded with water- 
cress, paper to be removed by waiter at the 
guest's request, just as about to be eaten. 

ROAST ORTOLANS— The birds plucked and 
singed, wiped, slit made in the side and the 
gizzard removed, cut off beak and feet, skin 
the head, which place inside where the gizzard 
was, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
wrap around each a thin slice of bacon, or 
wrap each in a vine leaf if procurable, roast 
about ten minutes; serve on a fancy cut slice of 
bread fried a delicate brown with butter, pour 
round a rich Madeira sauce. 

BROCHETTE OF ORTOLANS— Pluck, singe 
and wipe the birds, remove the gizzard, rub 
the body with lemon, then 10II each one in soft 
maitre d'hotel butter, then in grated bread 
crumbs (not cracker dust), then thread them on 
a skewer, broil; serve on toast buttered with 
the drippings from the broiling, garnish with 
lemon and watercress. 

FRIED ORTOLANS— The birds plucked and 
singed, feet and beak removed, gizzards drawn, 
head skinned and placed where gizzard was, 
rubbed with lemon, dipped in maitre d'hotel 
butter, then in grated breadcrumbs, then in 
beaten eggs and again in the crumbs, plunged in 
boiling hot fat, fried ten minutes; served with 
a rich brown Italian sauce. 

TRUFFLED ORTOLANS— Pluck and singe 
the birds, remove beak, feet and gizzard, skin 
the head and place where gizzard was, arrange 



them in a serving casserole, moisten with a rich 
truffle sauce containing plenty of sliced truffles, 
bake for ten minutes in a quick oven; serve in 
the casserole. 

OX-TAIL SOUP— Saw the tails into neat pieces 
half inch thick, soak over night in salted water; 
with a large sized column cutter stamp out 
slices of white and yellow turnip, carrot; drain 
and wipe the pieces of ox-tail, then saute them 
with the vegetables, add them to a rich brown 
stock flavored with sweet herbs and celery, 
simmer till tails are tender and gelatinous, 
then thicken the soup with roux, season with 
salt and pepper, port wine and mushroom cat- 
sup. 

CLEAR OX-TAIL SOUP— A consomm^ of rich 
brown stock made with roast meat, poultry and 
a flavor of ham, in which is slices of ox-tail and 
vegetables as in the preceding recipe, finish 
with a flavoring of port wine. 

HARICOT OF OX-TAILS— Tails separated in 
their natural joints, the large end split, placed 
in a deep sautoir with fat from the stock top- 
pings and some sliced onions, fry a nice brown, 
stock then added to well cover, stewed for 
about three hours, then taken up, the stock 
strained and freed from grease, the tails placed 
in another sautoir with slices of braised carrot 
and turnip, sauce made from the strained 
stock, then poured over the tails and vegeta- 
bles, season with salt, pepper, mushroom cat- 
sup and port wine; served within a border of 
mashed potatoes, sprinkling the tails with finely 
chopped parsley. 

CURRY OF OX-TAILS Tails separated in their 
natural joints, the large end split, lightly fried 
with onion, then taken up into a sautoir, covered 
with a rich curry sauce, simmered till tender; 
serve within a border of boiled grains of rice. 

SAUTE OF OX-TAILS— Tails separated in their 
natural joints, the large end split, seasoned 
with powdered mixed herbs, rolled in flour, 
saute£d a light brown with butter, taken up in- 
to a sautoir, covered with sauce Robert, sim- 
mered till tender; served garnished with a 
braised jardiniere of vegetables. 

OX-TONGUE BOILED— Salted ox-tongue, put 
to boil in cold water and cooked till tender, 
according to size, but generally about three 
hours, then take up and skin, remove the bones 
from the root and trim off the waste fat, then 
keep hot in seasoned broth; to serve, cut in thin 
slices, place them overlapping each other down 
the centre of the dish, first dipping each slice 
into a jellied gravy or demi-glaze, then garnish 
the sides with either a puree of spinach, flageo- 
let beans, a macedoine or jardiniere of vegeta- 
bles, Brussels sprouts, pieces of cauliflower, 
stringless green beans or asparagus points. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BRAISED FRESH OX TONGUE— Blanch and 
trim a good sized tongue, then place it in a 
braisiere with slices of carrot, turnip, celery 
onions, a few cloves, bay leaf, mace, salt, pep- 
per and a glass of cooking brandy, cover with 
good stock, then biaise slowly till tender; when 
done, taken up and placed in a sautoir, the 
braise then strained and skimmed, then mixed 
with some Madeira sauce and reduced to half 
glaze, this is then poured over the tongue and 
kept hot in it; served in thin slices overlapping 
each other down the centre of dish, covered 
with the glaze, and garnished with small que- 
nelles or croquettes of potatoes. 

SMOKED OX-TONGUE, GERMAN STYLE— 
Smoked tongue soaked over night in cold water, 
then scrubbed, parboiled for half an hour, taken 
up and trimmed, then placed in a sautoir with 
well washed sauer-kraut, onion stuck with 
cloves, carrot and a bunch of soup herbs; mois- 
ten with stock, lay slices of fat salt pork over 
the top, put on the lid and place in a medium 
oven, cook till tongue is tender, about two 
hours, take up; serve in thin slices with Poiv 
rade sauce, flanked with the sauer-kraut. 

BOILED SMOKED TONGUE, SAUCE PI- 
QUANTE — Smoked tongue soaked overnight 
in cold water, then scrubbed, put to boil in 
cold water, cooked till tender, taken up, skinned 
and trimmed; served in slices with Piquante 
sauce, garnished with gherkins. 

BRAISED FRESH TONGUE, SAUCE ITAL- 
IAN — Fresh ox-tongue put to boil in cold 
water, boiled one hour, taken up, skinned and 
trimmed, then larded with seasoned strips of 
fat pork and lean strips cf ham, arranged in 
braisiere with sliced vegetables, herbs, spices 
and pieces of fat bacon, moistened with stock, 
braised till tender, taken up, the braise re- 
duced, strained and skimmed, then added to a 
thick rich brown Italian sauce, the tongue 
served in slices with the sauce and garnished 
with sauteed button mushrooms. 

OYSTER STEW— Bulk oysters (selects) for 
hotels when served for dinners, breakfasts, sup- 
pers, luncheons, and catering parties. Counts 
for restaurant orders, club and European plan 
orders. The oysters scalded in their own 
liquor, taken up, the liquor skimmed and 
poured back to the oysters, milk brought to the 
boil; bowl or serving dish containing a piece of 
GOOD butter, salt, dash of red pepper; oysters 
and liquor poured to it, then filled up with 
boiling milk; served with oyster crackers: a dish 
of finely shred cabbage is sometimes served 
with it- -but why? 

CREAM STEW — Prepared as above, using 
cream instead of milk. 

PLAIN STEW — Same as oyster stew above, us- 
ing more oyster liquor and no milk. 



DRY STEW — Same as preceding, no milk and 
but little oyster liquor. 

BOX STEW — Dry stew of the very largest 
oysters placed on a slice of buttered toast, then 
boiling cream with a little butter poured over 
the whole. 

BOSTON STEW— Simply a milk stew of count 
oysters, but the oysters on toast as in box stew. 

INDIAN STEW— Box stew, but using equal 
parts of chicken curry sauce with the cream. 

PHILADELPHIA STEW— Very large oysters 
in their shells placed on a very hot grill; mean- 
time scald and skim some oyster liquor, season 
it with salt, red pepper and butter; when the 
oysters are broiled, remove them from their 
shells, place them in the boiling liquor; serve 
in soup plate, garnished with strips of buttered 
toast. 

BROILED SHELL OYSTERS— Scrub the shells 
clean, lay them on a very hot grill, when they 
open their shells, take them up and remove the 
flat shell, also loosen the oyster from the deep 
shell, place a few drops of melted butter or 
maitre d'hotel butter on each oyster, then 
serve very hot. 

BROILED OYSTERS— Very large oysters wiped 
dry, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in 
flour, arranged between a wire hinged broiler, 
brush with melted butter, broil till done, bast- 
ing with butter while broiling; serve overlap- 
ping each other on buttered toast, garnish with 
cress and quartered lemons. 

BROILED OYSTERS BREADCRUMBED— 
Same way as the preceding, but after dipping 
in flour, they are dipped in beaten eggs, then 
rolled in bread (not cracker) crumbs. 

DEVILLED OYSTERS — Oysters scalded, 
drained, cut in squares, the liquor with a little 
cream made into a thick butter sauce with an 
added egg yolk or two; season with salt, red 
pepper and chopped parsley, then add the oys- 
ters, fill into large deep oyster shells, then 
strew the top with breadcrumbs and melted 
butter, bake off a delicate brown and serve very 
hot. 

PANNED OYSTERS— Another form of dry 
stew; oysters washed and drained, very hot 
frying pan with a little melted butter, oysters 
thrown in and shuffled about till they sizzle, 
turned out into a small hot soup plate, season 
with salt and cayenne. 

ROAST SHELL OYSTERS-The shells scrubbed 
clean, arranged in a baking pan, placed in a 
very hot oven; when they open, remove the 
flat shell and loosen the oyster from the deep 
shell, place a little melted butter in each, serve 
quickly with strip of hot buttered toast aside. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS— Baking pan inch and 
a half deep, brushed with butter, oyster crack- 
ers rolled fine with rolling pin, the buttered 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



pan well lined with them, oysters drained, laid 
all over the rolled crackers, seasoned lightly 
with salt and pepper (mixed), then well cov- 
ered with more of the crackers, this then 
sprinkled well with a mixture of oyster liquor, 
milk and melted butter, then another layer of 
oysters, season as before, cover with the rolled 
crackers, moisten well with the mixed liquors, 
bake quickly well done, but a delicate brown; 
cut out in squares; serve very hot, garnish with 
cress and lemon. [For individual orders in 
scallop shells, they should be prepared the 
same way]. 
STEAMED OYSTERS— Shell oysters well 
scrubbed, placed in a steamer, turn on full 
steam, time three minutes; meantime take a 
small deep soup plate, in it have melted butter, 



bread and bacon, fry; serve on toast with 
m&itre d'hotel butter and quartered lemon. 

CROUSTADE OF OYSTERS— Oysters scalded 
in their own liquor, taken up, the liquor then 
added to equal quantities of Veloute and an- 
chovy sauces, reduce till thick, then add the 
oysters, fill into fancy croustades, sprinkle 
over the tops a mixture of grated Parmesan 
cheese and breadcrumbs, bake a delicate 
brown in a quick oven and serve on hot plate 
with paper doily. 

OYSTERS BAKED WITH MUSHROOMS— 
Fricassee the oysters and mushrooms, having 
the sauce thick, fill into individual molds or 
shells, sprinkle the top with mixed cheese and 
breadcrumbs, bake a delicate brown; serve 
very hot. 



salt and a dash of red pepper, open out the 

oysters and their liquor into it; serve very hot FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS— Oysters scalded 

with strips of buttered toast. till plump in boiling milk, taken up, butter 

GLAZED OYSTERS ON TOAST-Large oysters melted in sautoir and allowed to frizzle with- 



wiped dry, sauteed quickly with butter, take up, 
pour the liquor from the sauteeing into a rich 
Madeira sauce, adding a piece of glaze, reduce 
this rapidly to half glaze; have the serving 
platter hot with strip of buttered toast down 
the centre, dip the oysters into the half glaze 
aud arrange them overlapping each other on 
the toast, garnish with cress and lemon. 



out becoming colored, flour then added to form 
a roux, made into thick sauce with the milk, 
seasoned with salt, red pepper, lemon juice and 
a dash of Harvey sauce, finished with a liaison 
of egg yolks and cream. Hot serving platter, 
buttered toast down the centre, oysters dipped 
in the sauce, placed overlapping each other down 
the toast; served with more of the sauce at 
the sides. 



BACON COATED OYSTERS, FRIED— Large 
oysters wiped dry, very thin slices of parboiled BA KED OYSTERS WITH CHEESE— Oysters 
bacon rolled round the oysters and pinned with wi P ed dl T. then rolled in sifted breadcrumbs 



a toothpick, dipped in batter, fried, toothpick 
withdrawn; served with tomato sauce. 
SAUCE COATED OYSTERS, FRIED— Large 
oysters wiped dry, dipped into a thick Villeroi 
sauce, allowed to set, then dipped into beaten 
eggs, rolled well in sifted breadcrumbs, fried a 
golden brown; served garnished with quartered 
lemon. 



that are mixed with Parmesan cheese and 
chopped parsley, seasoned with salt and pep- 
per, moistened with little white wine; arrange 
in scallop shell, strew with more cheese, bake 
a delicate brown and serve very hot. 

FRIED OYSTERS— Count oysters rolled in 
cracker dust or yellow corn meal, then in beat- 
en eggs, then in the meal again, fried; served 
with quartered lemon. 



OYSTERS STUFFED AND BROILED— One 
pint cf egg yolks stirred without much beating, FANCY FRY- Count oysters wiped dry, sea 



poured into a buttered pan and steamed till set 
firm, allowed to cool, then grate them; one 
pound of cooked fat salt pork minced very fine, 
added to the grated yolks with some chopped 
parsley ; season to taste with salt and pepper; 
five dozen large oysters wiped dry, slit made in 
their sides, stuffed with the mixture, rolled in 
sifted breadcrumbs, then rolled in melted but- 
ter and again in the crumbs, arrange between 
a wire hinged broiler, broil a golden brown, 
basting with butter; serve garnished with 
quartered lemon and fried parsley. 
BROCHETTE OF OYSTERS— Mince some 
thyme, parsley and shallots very fine, add a 
little salt and pepper; wipe large oysters dry, 
roll them in the herbs, then dip in beaten eggs, 
then in sifted breadcrumbs, then arrange them 
alternately on a skewer with pieces of sweet- 



soned with mixed salt and red pepper, dipped 
in flour, then in mixed beaten eggs and whipped 
cream, then in sifted breadcrumbs, pressed 
slightly between the hands, fried a golden 
brown with butter; served with quartered 
lemon and garnished with green stuff, 

OYSTERS BAKED WITH POTATOES— Large 
oysters wiped dry, seasoned with salt and pep- 
per. Duchesse potato mixture rolled out thin, 
cut out in diamond shapes, oysters laid in the 
centre, edges folded over and pinched into 
shape, arranged in a buttered baking pan, 
brushed over with beaten egg, baked a golden 
brown; served very hot. 

OYSTER LOAF— Small French rolls, insides 
hollowed out, the loaf shell then fried a golden 
brown with butter, the interior then filled with 
a fricassee of oysters. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



123 



CURRIED OYSTERS — Oysters scalded and 
drained, cuiry sauce made from the liquor, 
finished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. 
Rice boiled in some scalded oyster liquor; 
served as a border to the curried oysters in the 
centre. 

BAKED OYSTERS, ITALIAN STYLE— Maca- 
roni boiled in one inch lengths in oyster liquor 
from the scalded oysters, Fricasee sauce made 
of the liquor after the macaroni is drained. 
Buttered baking pan, alternate layers of the 
macaroni and oysters, the top strewn with 
mixed grated cheese and breadcrumbs, dashed 
with melted butter, sauce then poured over, 
baked till set; served very hot. 

OYSTERS IN CASSEROLE— Line the casserole 
with Duchesse.potato mixture, fill the interior 
with oysters in a rich Poulette sauce, bake 
lightly and serve. 

CREAMED OYSTERS ON TOAST— Scalded 
oysters placed into a rich cream sauce, then 
arranged on buttered toast; served with the 
sauce poured over. 

OYSTERS WITH CELERY— To each portion 
of oysters allow a tablespoonful of minced white 
celery and the same of sherry wine, saute all 
together with butter, season with salt and red 
pepper; serve on toast with the liquor poured 
over. 

OYSTER TOAST— Oysters scalded and drained, 
then pounded to a paste with cream, seasoned 
with lemon juice and red pepper, spread on 
circles of brown bread toast. 

OYSTER OMELET— Scald the oysters, add the 
liquor >to a sauce Normande, reduce, put the 
oysters into the omelet, dip two of them into 
the sauce and place on top, then pour the sauce 
around the omelet. 

SUPREME OF OYSTERS— Oysters scalded 
and drained, the liquor strained through muslin 
and added to a rich Veloute sauce, brought to the 
boil, piece of chicken glaze then added, then 
finish by adding a little thick cream and the 
juice of a lemon, add the oysters; serve on 
toast. 

OYSTER PIE — Diamond shaped pieces of puff 
pastry % of an inch thick when baked, split, 
the under side laid on the serving platter, the 
Supreme above laid on it, the upper part of the 
pastry laid on; served immediately. Another 
way, take the Supreme of oysters, add some 
chopped hard boiled eggs and parsley, fill in to a 
pie dish, cover with a puff paste, bake off 
quickly without letting the oysters come to the 
boil in the pie. 

COD AND OYSTER PIE— The Supreme above 
with the addition of flakes of fresh boiled cod- 
fish, prepared and served in the ways given for 
oyster pie. 



OYSTER PATTIES— The Supreme above filled 
into puff paste patty shells. 

OYSTER POT PIE— The Supreme above, keep- 
ing out the oysters till the pie is finished, i. c, 
prepare the sauce, put it into the saucepan, bring 
to the boil, drop light dumplings all over it 
close together, place on the lid, and cook till 
dumplings are done, then remove the centre 
one, place in the oysters, replace the dumpling, 
keep very hot, but do not let it boil again; this 
method keeps the oysters plump and tender; 
serve with a sprinkling of chopped parsley. 
Cod and oyster pot pie may be prepared the 
same way, and is useful when oysters are few 
and you have some cod that wants using up, 
such as the shoulders that cannot be cut into 
nice steaks. 

EPIGRAMME OF OYSTERS— A rich Supreme 
as above, having the sauce thick enough to stay 
on the oyster when lifted out; arrange them 
down the centre of the serving dish, flanked 
with neatly fried oysters; serve garnished with 
triangle shaped pieces of buttered toast, the 
point dipped into the sauce, then into lobster 
coral. 

OYSTER SAUCE— Oysters blanched and drain- 
ed, liquor strained through muslin, brought 
to the boil, a butter and flour roux moistened 
with the boiling liquor, seasoned with salt, red 
pepper and lemon juice, finished with some 
boiling cream; this is used for white foods. 

OYSTER SAUCE— For brown foods such as 
steaks, fried fish, meat pies, oyster pies, roast 
turkey, roast capon, etc., is prepared same as 
the preceding, but substituting a good brown 
sauce for the boiling cream. 

STEAK AND OYSTER PIE— Tender pieces of 
beef cut into small neat pieces, seasoned with 
pepper and salt, quickly sauteed a nice color 
with butter, taken up and placed into the pie 
dish, oysters scalded and drained. Into the pan 
the beef was sauteed in add a little more but- 
ter, then flour to form a roux, moisten with the 
strained boiling liquor, boil, skim, strain over 
the meat and let simmer till meat is nearly 
done, then add the oysters, some good brown 
sauce, a seasoning of salt, pepper, lemon juice 
and Harvey sauce, cover with puff paste, bake 
quickly; serve hot. 

OYSTER CROQUETTES— Two quarts of Se- 
lects or Standard oysters, one can of mush- 
rooms, the liquor of the mushrooms poured to 
the oysters, which are then scalded and drained, 
the scalded liquor then strained through mus- 
lin; mushrooms minced and sauteed a golden 
color with butter, taken up, flour then added to 
form a roux, thick sauce then made with the 
boiling liquor, adding a little cream and a sea- 
soning of salt, pepper, lemon juice, Anchovy 
and Harvey sauces, the chopped oysters and 



124 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



mushrooms then added, boiled, finished to 
proper thickness with a liaison of egg yolks 
and cream; turned into a buttered shallow pan, 
smoothed, covered with a sheet of oiled paper, 
allowed to become firm and cold, then formed 
into shape of sausages, breaded, fried; served 
with brown oyster sauce. 
OYSTER CUTLETS MINCED— The croquette 
preparation made into the shape of rib chops, 
breaded, fried; served with brown oyster sauce. 
OYSTER RISSOLES— Crimped circles of puff 
paste, the centre containing some oyster cro- 
quette mixture, edges then folded over and 
pinched, brushed with egg wash, baked. 
OYSTER STUFFING— For fish and poultry: 
oysters blanched and drained, cut in quarters, 
or if using Standards, leave them whole. Moist 
stale bread grated one part, rolled oyster crack- 
ers one part, the third part of oysters, the 
whole mixed together and seasoned with salt, 
pepper and chopped parsley, the liquor brought 
to the boil with an addition of butter, poured 
to the dry mixture, stirred, then ready for use. 
OYSTER SOUP— Scald the oysters, drain, strain 
the liquor through muslin, bring to the boil, 
season with salt, red pepper, mace, Harvey 
and Anchovy sauces, flour and butter roux, 
moistened with the strained liquor, boiled up, 
skimmed, then poured to an equal quantity of 
Bechamel sauce, add the scalded oysters; serve 
with oyster crackers. 
OYSTER SOUP-Oysters and their liquor scalded 
in strong fish broth, taken up and drained, the 
liquor strained; a can of mushrooms opened, 
liquor poured to the broth, the mushrooms 
minced with some shallots, fried with plenty of 
butter, then taken up and added to the scalded 
oysters; flour added to the frying butter to 
form a roux, this then thinned to soup consist- 
ency with the boiling broth, season to taste, 
oysters, etc., then added with some chopped 
parsley and a glass of white wine; serve with 
oyster crackers. 
OYSTER GUMBO— Minced onions, green pep- 
pers and ham fried with plenty of butter, then 
taken up, oysters scalded in their own liquor 
and fish broth, taken up and drained, half a 
gallon can of tomatoes rubbed through a fine 
sieve then added to the strained liquor and 
boiled, skimmed, [flour added to the butter to 
form a roux, moistened to soup consistency 
with the boiling liquor and tomatoes, seasoned, 
two cans of okra then added with a little Doiled 
rice, then the oysters and other fried ingredi- 
ents; served with oyster crackers. 
OYSTER SANDWICH— Three or four dozen 
oysters dried with a cloth, melted butter in a 
frying pan, drop in the oysters and saute" them 
brown, take up, chop fine, season with salt and 
pepper, spread on hot thin buttered toast, 



sprinkle with chili sauce, cover with another 
slice of toast, trim the edges, cut across and 
serve. 

BREADED OYSTERS, CELERY SAUCE— 
Large oysters wiped dry, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in melted butter, then in 
fresh grated breadcrumbs, place between a 
wire hinged broiler, broil rapidly a delicate 
brown, then place on a narrow strip of hot 
fresh buttered toast; serve with celery cream 
sauce poured around. 

OYSTER BOUCHEES— For two dozen, blanch 
four dozen oysters in their own liquor, take up 
and place two in each bouchee, strain the liquor 
through muslin, add its equal volume of rich 
tomato puree, then season with butter and 
tabasco sauce, bring to the boil, keep the 
bouchees hot, and when serving, fill up with 
the boiling sauce. 

OYSTER PLANT, FRIED— Scraped clean and 
laid in cold water containing salt and a little 
white vinegar; when *o be cooked, first boil 
tender, then take up and drain, dip into frying 
batter, plunge into hot fat, fry a delicate brown, 
take up, sprinkle with salt and serve as a veg- 
etable. 

OYSTER PLANT, BOILED— Pr e par e as 
above, then boil tender, take up and drain, 
place in vegetable steamer, cover with cream 
sauce; serve as a vegetable. 

OYSTER PLANT, SAUCE POULETTE-Scrape 
clean, cut in small pieces, lay in acidulated 
water for an hour, then boil till tender in boil- 
ing water containing salt and and a little white 
vinegar; when done, taken up, turned into hot 
Poulette sauce and served. 

OYSTER PLANT FRITTERS— Prepared and 
boiled as above, when drained, mashed thor- 
oughly, then seasoned and stiffened with salt, 
pepper, yolk of egg and flour, spoonfuls then 
fried in hot fat, taken up, sprinkled with salt 
and served. 

STEWED OYSTER PLANT— The plant pre- 
pared and boiled as above, then stewed in a 
rich meat gravy sauce; served on hot buttered 
toast. 

OYSTER PLANT SAUTE— The plant prepared, 
boiled, drained, then rolled in flour, sauteed a 
golden brown with butter; served on toast with 
hot maitre d'hotel sauce poured over. 

PANCAKES — Known to us in every household 
"as "batter cakes". For recipes, see heading 
of "batter". 

PARMESAN — Name of an Italian cheese; see 
heading of "cheese". 

PARSLEY — A garden herb used as a garnish; to 
ornament dishes, chopped and mixed in sauces, 
stews, soups, salads, etc. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



125 



PARSNIP — A root vegetable, peeled, cut in finger 
lengths, boiled in salted water, taken up and 
drained; served as an accompaniment to boiled 
salt leg of pork. 

PARSNIPS, CREAM SAUCE— Boiled in finger 
lengths, drained, placed in cream sauce; served 
as a vegetable. 

PARSNIPS FRIED IN BATTER— Boiled in 
finger lengths in salted water, taken up and 
drained, dipped in batter, fried in hot lard, 
taken up, sprinkled with salt and served. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS— Boiled, mashed, sea- 
soned and stiffened with salt, pepper, yolks of 
eggs and flour, fried by spoonfuls in hot lard, 
taken up, sprinkled with salt, served. 

PARSNIP SAUTEES— Boiled tender in finger 
lengths, drained, seasoned with salt and pep- 
per, rolled in flour, sauteed a delicate brown 
with butter, taken up, sprinkled with chopped 
parsley and served. 

MASHED PARSNIPS— Boiled tender, mashed, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, milk and butter; 
served as a vegetable. 

BAKED PARSNIPS— Peeled, quartered, steamed 
till nearly done, taken up and arranged in a 
buttered baking pan, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, moistened with rich gravy and butter, 
baked tender and brown. 

PARTRIDGE BROILED— Young birds split 
down the back, breastbone removed, trussed, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, brushed with 
olive oil, broiled and basted well done; served 
on buttered toast with maitre d'hotel butter, 
garnished with jelly and parsley; may also be 
garnished with slices of fried hominy or bacon, 
or after broiling, served with either Colbert, 
Italian or Madeira sauces. 

ROAST PARTRIDGE— Young birds singed and 
drawn, wiped with towel, trussed with a slice 
of fat bacon tied over the breast, roasted about 
half an hour; served with game sauce and red 
currant jelly. 

BOILED PARTRIDGE— Singed, drawn, wiped 
and trussed, boiled in white stock till tender; 
served with a rich cream sauce. 

BOILED PARTRIDGE, GARNISHED— Part- 
ridges singed, drawn, wiped and trussed, put to 
boil with cabbage, bacon, pork sausages, 
frankforts, parsley, white stock and a little 
sherry wine; when tender, taken up, the meats 
also, parsley thrown away, cabbage pressed 
dry, then chopped, the remaining liquor strained 
into a rich game sauce. To serve, place a 
spoonful of cabbage in centre of dish, portion 
of bird on it, flanked with a piece of bacon, 
sausage, frankfort (skinned), sauce poured 
over. 

PARTRIDGE SAUTE — Young birds singed, 
drawn, wiped, jointed, seasoned with salt and 



pepper, sauteed with butter a delicate brown, 
taken up, minced shallots then added to the 
butter with button mushrooms and fried; 
when browned, surplus butter poured off, part- 
ridge put back, covered with Espagnole, boiled 
up and skimmed, seasoned with Madeira wine, 
simmered till tender; served garnished with 
fancy croutons. 

SALMI OF PARTRIDGE— The birds singed, 
drawn, wiped, trussed, roasted, cooled, quart- 
ered, the back and breastbones with other 
trimmings then placed in some Espagnole with 
bacon, minced onion, bay leaf, thyme and 
crushed peppers, brought to the boil and rap- 
idly reduced, skimmed, strained over the birds 
in another sautoir, seasoned with sherry wine, 
simmered a few minutes; served garnished with 
croutons. 

PARTRIDGE LARDED AND BRAISED— The 
birds singed, drawn and wiped, the breasts 
larded, trussed, arranged in brasiere with slices 
of root vegetables and sweet herbs; place a few 
slices of bacon on top, moisten with a little 
stock, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, 
place on the lid and put in a slow oven to cook 
in its own steam for about two hours; when 
done, take up, add a game sauce to the liquor 
in the brasiere, reduce, strain, flavor with 
sherry wine, glaze the birds; serve with the 
sauce. 

PARTRIDGE SAUTE WITH RISSOTO-Young 
birds singed, drawn, wiped, jointed, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, fried lightly with butter, 
taken up; into the butter they were fried in, 
add flour to form a roux, moisten with game 
stock made from the backbones and trimmings, 
add the juice and a little of the grated rind of a 
sour orange, put in the fried birds, simmer 
slowly till tender; served with a border of ris- 
soto. 

BREAST OF PARTRIDGE LARDED AND 
FRIED — Take the breasts, trim and lard them, 
season with salt, pepper and powdered thyme, 
dip in beaten egg, then roll in freshly grated 
breadcrumbs, arrange in a sautoir, pour over 
melted butter, placed in a moderate oven and 
brown nicely on both sides; serve on a fancy 
crouton with a little Richelieu or Sultana sauce 
poured around. 

EPIGRAMME OF PARTRIDGE WITH 
MUSHROOMS— Take young birds, remove 
the breasts, lard them, bread and fry as pre- 
ceding one half of them, slowly broil the re- 
maining half, (so that you have one plain and 
one breaded), dish up one of each, points cross- 
ing each other, garnish with fried mushrooms 
in a Fumet sauce. 
BREAST OF PARTRIDGE, SAUCE COL- 
BERT — Take the breasts of young birds, lard 
them, slowly broil them till done; served on 



126 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



bnttered toast with sauce Colbert poured 
around. 

BREAST OF PARTRIDGE, GLAZED VEGE- 
TABLES— Take the breasts of young birds, 
lard and roast them. With an half inch sized col- 
umn cutter, cut inch lengths of carrot and tur- 
nip, braise and glaze them together -with but- 
ton onions, use them as a garnish to the breasts, 
and pour game sauce around. 

PARTRIDGE BRAISED WITH CABBAGE— 
Take old birds, braise them with sliced vege. 
tables and sweet herbs till three parts done, 
take up into a sautoir, add cut cabbage, pour 
over the strained liquor they were braised in, 
add some thin slices of bacon (if not enough 
liquor add some white stock), simmer till done, 
lightly thicken the liquor with flour and butter; 
serve portion of bird with slice of bacon on 
top, cabbage around, and a little game sauce 
over the bird. 

PARTRIDGE BREADCRUMBED AND 
BROILED — Truss the bird out like a frog, 
season with salt and pepper, dip twice in beat- 
en eggs and fresh grated breadcrumbs, broil 
slowly till done over a clear fire; serve on toast 
with Italian sauce. 

FILLETS' OF PARTRIDGE WITH CRAY- 
FISH — Take the upper and lower fillets from 
the breasis, trim and lard them, arrange them 
in a sautoir with slices of bacon, moistened with 
little stock and white wine, cover with a sheet 
of buttered paper, place on the lid, braise in 
the oven; when done, glaze them, strain and 
skim the braise, then add it to an Allemande 
sauce. To serve: place a ragout of crayfish 
tails in centre of dish, large fillet of partridge 
at each end with points meeting over the rag- 
out, small fillets at each side, points upwards, 
sprinkle over all a little lobster coral, and pour 
the sauce around. 

FILLETS OF PARTRIDGE, PARISIAN 
STYLE — Take the fillets and coat them with 
Allemande sauce, then in beaten eggs and sifted 
breadcrumbs, then sprinkle with melted butter 
and press on a little more of the crumbs, saute 
them of a golden color with clear butter, when 
done, take up and drain; meanwhile, prepare a 
ragout of crayfish tails, button mushrooms, cocks 
kernels and small truffles, moisten with a little 
game glaze, Allemande sauce, crayfish butter 
and lemon juice. To serve: place the ragout 
in centre of dish, the fillets around it, decorate 
the base with scallops of tongue, and serve 
some more of the sauce from the ragout separ- 
ate. 

PARTRIDGE WITH BACON, CELERY 
SAUCE — Take old birds and boil them with 
salt pork, carrots, onions and turnips in white 
stock till tender; serve in portions with a slice 
of the pork at the sides, and a puree of celery 
in a white game sauce poured over. 



PARTRIDGE RISSOLES, SAUCE RICHE- 
LIEU — Make a croquette mixture with cold 
cooked partridge and game sauce, stamp out 
crimped circles of thin puff paste, place a little 
of the mixture in the centres, fold over the 
edges and pinch close, fry or bake them of a 
golden color, and serve with a Richelieu sauce. 

EMINCE OF PARTRIDGE— Take cold roast 
partridge, cut in broad thin slices, simmer it in 
equal parts of white game and Godard sauces; 
serve on toast, garnished with sauteed fresh 
button mushrooms. 

SALPICON OF PARTRIDGE-Takecold cooked 
partridge, cut the meat in small dice, also some 
truffles, red tongue and button mushrooms, cut 
same size as the bird, mix, moisten with either 
game, Bechamel or Supreme sauces; serve 
garnished with small potato croquettes. 

CROUSTADES OF PARTRIDGE— Take cold 
cooked partridge, cut the meat in small squares, 
simmer it in a rich game sauce, then add a rag- 
out of mushrooms, cocks combs and sweet- 
breads; serve in paste croustades, garnish with 
fancy croutons. 

HASHED PARTRIDGE WITH EGG— Take 
cold cooked partridge, cut the meat in small 
squares, lightly fry it with butter, add flour to 
form a roux, moisten with game stock, simmer 
for fifteen minutes; serve on toast with a 
trimmed and drained poached egg on top, then 
garnish the ends with fancy croutons. 

PARTRIDGE CROQUETTES, SAUCE PERI- 
GUEUX— Cold cooked partridge minced, thick 
game sauce heated, partridge worked in, stirred 
till it boils, two or three whipped yolks of egg 
may be worked in, turn into buttered pan, 
smooth, let it become thoroughly cold, form in- 
to shapes of corks, bread, fry; serve with Peri- 
gueux sauce. 

PARTRIDGE PATTIES— Prepare the mixture 
as given for "croustades of partridge", fill either 
into patty or vol-au-vent cases and serve. 

STEWED PARTRIDGE— Old birds, lard them, 
place them in a sautoir with a piece of fat 
bacon, sweet herbs, vegetables, moisten with 
white wine and stock, let them stew slowly till 
tender, then take up and cut into quarters, 
strain the liquor they were stewed in, skim off 
the fat, reduce it, then add it and the birds to 
a Chipolata garnish "(see garnishes)", serve 
the bird with the garnish around. 

PARTRIDGE SALAD-Cold roast birds skinned, 
trimmed into neat pieces, moistened with one 
part of tarragon vinegar to two of olive oil, 
add a little chopped chervil and chives, season 
with salt and cayenne, mix all together with an 
equal quantity of Julienne cut celery (like 
matches); serve on a bed of curly endive, garn- 
ish with rings of hard boiled eggs and filleted 
anchovies. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



127 



PAUPIETTE— Name given to a thin slice of 
meat spread with forcemeat, rolled up, tied at 
each end, stewed with meat gravy; the house- 
hold name for them is "meat olives". 

PEACH— One of our choice fruits, the two var- 
ieties chiefly used in hotel life being the "free- 
stone" for dessert, and the "clingstone" for 
cooking purposes. 

PEACHES WITH CREAM— Freestone peaches 
skinned, cut in slices, sprinkled with powdered 
sugar, covered with thick cream and served. 

COMPOTE OF PEACHES— Halves of peaches 
skinned, simmered in syrup till tender; served 
cold with a small pitcher of cream separate — 
may also be served hot as a sweet entree. An 
improvement to the syrup is to take the kernels 
from the stones, blanch and skin them, then 
boil in the syrup. 

PEACH AMBROSIA-Peaches peeled and sliced, 
simmered in the above syrup till tender, taken 
up, arranged in centre of dish flanked with 
slices of peeled and pipped oranges, then 
cover the peaches with some of the syrup, and 
pipe a fancy centre over them with whipped 
cream. 

PEACHES WITH RICE— Rice boiled in sweet- 
ened milk with a vanilla bean till dry in grains; 
served as a border to the compote of peaches 
as above. 

PEACHES WITH RICE CROQUETTES-Rice 
boiled very tender in sweetened and flavored 
milk, then taken up and whisked till creamy, 
set with the addition of egg yolks; when cold, 
made up into two forms of croquettes, one like 
a small egg nest, the other like a small pyra- 
mid; bread them lightly, fry a golden color, 
depress the centre of the egg nest shape, and 
place in half a peach from compote, pips the 
edge with peach marmalade, garnish with the 
pyramids, decorating the point with whipped 
cream and chopped pistachio nuts, pour syrup 
from the compote flavored with Madeira wine 
around the base, then serve. 

PEACH MARMALADE— Peaches wiped but not 
pared, halved, stoned, weighed; to each pound 
of fruit allow half a pound of sugar; take a 
porcelain lined kettle, pour in just enough 
water to cover the bottom, then put in the 
peaches, place on the lid and heat slowly to 
boiling point; then stir and mash the fruit till 
fine; then add the sugar and a few blanched 
and pounded kernels, boil up again and con- 
tinue stirring for fifteen minutes, then diaw to 
a cooler part of the range and let simmer for 
twenty minutes with an occasional stir; place 
in stone crocks and use as wanted. 

PEACH BUTTER — Yellow mellow peaches 
peeled and stoned, weighed; to each pound of 
fruit allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 
put peaches with just a little water in the pre- 



serving kettle, cover, heat slowly to boiling 
point, whisk till thoroughly mashed, then rub 
through a fine sieve, then add the sugar, 
boil up, boil and stir thoroughly for fifteen 
minutes, fill into small jars; when cold, tie 
over with air-proof paper. 

PEACH JELLY— Two gallons of pared and 
sliced peaches, one pint of water, two dozen of 
the kernels blanched and pounded and mixed 
with the fruit, put all into a stone crock, stand 
in the bain-marie, cover closely and let boil for 
an hour, stirring till the fruit is well broken, 
then turn into a jelly bag and let drip thor- 
oughly; to each quart of juice add the juice of 
two lemons and two pounds of sugar, bring 
quicky to the boil, then boil fast for twenty 
minutes, skim as the scum rises, roll the glasses 
in boiling water, fill with the boiling jelly, let 
cool for 24 hours, then cover with air-proof 
papers; keep in a cool place. 

SPICED PEACHES— Twenty-eight pounds of 
peaches, sixteen pounds of granulated sugar, 
two quarts of white wine vinegar, two ounces 
of bruised ginger, ounce of ground cloves, two 
ounces each of ground allspice and cinnamon 
and half an ounce of ground mace, mix all 
the spices together and fill into two muslin bags, 
tie tight, bring the sugar and vinegar to the boil, 
put in the spices, then the peaches peeled but 
left whole, when they come to the boil again, 
remove from the fire and carefully place them 
in a stone crock, allow to cool overnight, then 
pour off the liquid into a preserving kettle, 
gradually bring to the boil, then pour back 
over the fruit, repeat this with the liquor every 
day for ten days and on the last day reduce the 
liquor till there is only just enough to cover the 
peaches, then place the crock in the bain-marie 
and bring to boiling point, fill into fruit jars 
and use as wanted. 

BRANDY PEACHES —Large firm freestone 
peaches placed in a preserving kettle and cov- 
ered with boiling water, lid then put on and 
allowed to remain till the water becomes cold, 
then drain off the water and repeat with an- 
other scalding and cooling, then take each 
peach out of the cold water and allow to drain 
and dry between two towels, then put the fruit 
into small stone crocks and cover with brandy; 
cover with air-proof paper and allow to macer- 
ate for a week; at the week end take out and 
weigh the fruit; to each pound of peaches make 
syrup of one pound of sugar and a cupful of 
water, bring to the ooil and skim, then put in 
the fruit and simmer, when tender, take out 
and drain, put into fruit jars, allow the syrup 
to cool; when cold, make a mixture of equal 
quantities of the syrup and brandy, pour over 
the fruit in the jars, seal up, keep in a cool 
dark place, use as wanted. 



128 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



BOTTLED PEACHES-Ripe, large juicy peaches 
peeled and halved, then weighed; to each 
pound, allow one pound of sugar. Take a stone 
crock, fill it with alternate layers of peaches 
and sugar, let macerate for 24 hours, then turn 
all carefully into preserving kettle with some of 
the kernels blanched and skinned, bring rapidly 
to the boil, then simmer till the fruit is tender 
and the syrup clear, take up gently and fill in- 
to fruit jars without breaking the halves, allow 
the syrup to become cold, then pour over the 
peaches, screw on the covers, use as wanted. 

PEACH COBBLER— Shallow buttered baking 
pan lined with a good short paste, halves of 
peeled peaches filled into it, covered with 
powdered sugar, upper crust of short paste 
placed on and pinched down at edges, egg 
washed and baked in a medium oven for half 
an hour; served cut in squares dusted with 
powdered sugar and a small pitcher of cream 
served separately. 

PEACH SHORTCAKE— Ripe freestone peaches 
peeled and chopped, mixed with sugar to taste, 
shortcake baked, split, the peaches then spread 
between and on top, the top layer then piped 
with whipped cream; served cut in squares, 
with or without a separate pitcher of cream. 

PEACH CHARLOTTE— Buttered baking pan, 
slices of an evenly trimmed stale loaf dipped in 
melted butter and arranged around the sides 
and bottom of the pan leaving no cracks, peach 
marmalade then put in half an inch thick, cov- 
ered with more slices of the bread, brushed 
with beaten egg, then well sprinkled with gran 
ulated sugar, baked brown and glazy; served 
with or without sauce. 

PEACH CROUTONS WITH GLAZED 
FRUITS — Sponge cakes baked in a long round 
mold; when one day old, cut into slices inch 
and a half thick. Compote of peaches, the 
syrup flavored with Kirschenwasser, after 
peaches are done, removed, and into the syrup 
is put pieces of angelica with other "fruits 
glaces". To serve: dip the slice of cake in 
the syrup, on it place the fruit, then decorate 
with the "fruits glaces" finish with a little of 
the syrup poured over. 

PEACH CHARTREUSE— Ornamental jelly 
molds, fancy slices of "fruits glaces" peach 
butter stiffened with gelatine. Line the molds 
with a thin layer of stiff Madeira wine jelly, 
dip each slice of fruit in some more of it and 
decorate the sides of the mold in a pretty de- 
sign, then pour in some more jelly to set the 
design, then fill up with the stiffened peach 
butter, put away in ice box to set firm, turn 
out on a fancy glass dish, pipe a fancy border 
with whipped cream, sprinkle it with very 
finely chopped pistachio nuts and serve. 

PEACH TARTLETTES — Fancy patty pans 
lined with puff paste, halves of preserved 



peaches placed into each, baked, then a piping 
of meringue round the edges sprinkled with 
chopped pistachio nuts, returned to oven till 
the meringue takes on a delicate fawn color; 
when serving, pipe the centre fancifully with 
whipped cream. 
PEACH FRITTERS— Freestone peaches peeled 
and halved, coated with frying batter, plunged 
into hot lard, fried a golden brown, taken up 
and drained; served with wine sauce. 

PEACH DUMPLINGS— Large peaches peeled 
and stoned, enclosed with short paste, steamed 
till done; served with any pudding sauce. 

PEACH PIE — Peaches peeled and cut in slices, 
and made up same as apple pie. 

PEACH TRIFLE — A sheet of sponge cake moist- 
ened with sherry wine, this spread with a puree 
of peaches, the peaches with whipped cream, 
cut orders in a diamond shape, and serve with 
whipped cream piped around the edges. 

PEACH ICE — Puree of peaches flavored with 
ratafia mixed with water and sugar to taste, 
frozen; served in ice cups. 

ICED PEACHES-Large freestone peaches peeled, 
halved; stone removed; where the stone was, 
filled with the peach ice above; place the halves 
together, then coat the outside of the peach 
with more of the ice, place in refrigerating box 
till firm, then serve with whipped cream 
piped around the base. 

PEANUT — One of the most nutritive of foods, is 
the peanut kernel, as they contain 7.855S of 
water, 2.77$ of ash, 29.47% or protein, 4. 29% of 
fiber, 14 27% of nitrogen free extract, 49 29$ of 
fat, 4.67% of nitrogen. * * * In describing the 
uses of peanuts it is scarcely necessary to more 
than refer to that use which fully three-fourths 
of the American raised crop is devoted. The 
nut is sorted in the factory into four grades, 
the first, second and third being sold to vendors 
of the roasted peanut, either directly or through 
jobbing houses. The fourth grade, after pass- 
ing through a sheller, is sold to confectioners, 
to be used in the making of "burnt almonds", 
peanut candy and cheaper grades of chocolates. 
The extent of the use of the peanuts by the 
American people will be more fully appreciated 
when it is remembered that they use 4,000,000 
bushels of nuts yearly (at a cost to the con- 
sumers of $10,000,000) which do not form a 
part of the regular articles of food, but are 
eaten at odd times. 

PEAR — A delicious fruit, produced at its best in 
California. The Bartlett is the best for serv- 
ing plain or in the fruit stands. May be used in 
almost all the ways just previously described 
for peaches. 

PRICKLY PEAR— The fruit of a cactus named 
Opuntia, is peeled, sliced, moistened with 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



129 



brandy and the juice of an orange, then served 
with powdered sugar. 

PEAS — Garden peas shelled and washed, the 
toppings removed from the water, put to boil 
in boiling water with salt, little sugar and a 
small bunch of green mint, boil rapidly without 
a cover till tender, about ten to fifteen minutes, 
take up and drain, remove the mint; serve plain 
as a vegetable or garnish, or mix with cream or 
gravy, or butter sauce. The dried green peas 
of commerce may, after soaking in cold water 
over night, be treated the same as fresh garden 
peas. 

GREEN PEA SOUP— Garden peas shelled and 
washed, boiled till tender in good chicken broth, 
seasoned to taste, then is added some shredded 
chervil and lettuce. 

GREEN PEA SOUP— Peas shelled and washed, 
boiled in white stock till tender, slightly thick- 
ened with roux, then rubbed through a tamis, 
seasoned; served with croutons . . To the puree 
may also be added finely cut chervil, chives, 
spring onions, asparagus points, stringless beans 
. . . also may be mixed in for a change, two 
or three cans of macedoines . . . or a julienne of 
vegetables , . royal custards . . rice grains . . 
flageolet beans . . etc. 

PUREE OF PEAS— Dried green peas soaked 
over night, put to boil in white stock with a ham 
knuckle, mint, onion, carrot, spring onions and 
chives; when tender, remove the ham, rub the 
rest through a tamis, season to taste, bring to 
the boil again and slightly thicken with roux, 
to avoid settling; cut the ham in small dice and 
add to the soup; serve with croutons. 

PUREE OF PEAS— Dried green peas put to 
boil with salt pork and and a bunch of pot 
herbs in veal broth, boil till soft and pork is 
done, then remove pork, thicken a little with 
roux to prevent settling, then rub through 
tamis, bring to boil again, season to taste, cut 
the pork in dice, add to the soup; serve with 
croutons. 

SPLIT PEA SOUP— Split peas soaked over 
night, put to boil in white stock with onion, 
celery, carrot and salt pork; when done, thicken 
lightly with roux to prevent settling, remove 
the pork, rub the rest through a tamis, bring to 
boil again, season to taste, add the pork cut in 
small dice; serve with croutons. 

PEAS PUDDING— An English dish used with 
boiled salt pork, salt beef, etc. Split peas 
soaked over night, then put inco a cloth allow- 
ing room to swell, put to boil in cold water with 
salt and a small piece of common washing 
soda, boiled till soft, taken up, the cloth hung 
to allow all water to drain out, then untied, 
turned on to a dish and served with the accom- 
panying meat. 



PEPPER— Black, White and Mignonette— the 
berry of the pepper vine. The Black is the 
unripe berry dried; Mignonette is the black 
crushed (not ground) used in seasoning foods 
or stocks, etc., that will be strained; White is 
the kernel of the ripe berry. 

RED PEPPER — is the ground seeds and pods of 
the small capsicum; also called cayenne pepper. 

PEPPERMINT— Name of a combination plant 
of pepper and mint, one of the mint species; a 
volatile oil is extracted from it which is used 
for medicinal purposes, also as a flavoring to 
many things in the confectioners' trade. 

PEPPER POT— Name of the national soup stew 
of the West Indies; composed of pieces of beef, 
veal, ham chicken, game, all sorts of vege- 
tables, chopped green marjoram, savory, basil, 
parsley, small potatoes and dump"lings, finished 
and seasoned with sauce cassareep and chili 
pepper. 

PERCH — A delicate daiaty flavored small fish 
abundant all summer in our fresh water lakes, 
rivers and streams. As the skin is hard they 
should be skinned by first running a sharp 
knife down either side of the back fins, lifting 
the fin out, then with a sharp jerk pull off the 
skin from the sides, empty the entrails, cut off 
the other fins, season with salt and pepper, roll 
in flour, then in beaten eggs, then bread- 
crumbs, fry a golden brown; serve with lemon, 
garnish with parsley, and you have a dish ac- 
ceptable to all. . . . Or, after preparing, season, 
roll in flour, broil and baste till done; serve 
garnished with chip potatoes and a little maitre 
d'hotel butter, . . . prepare and boil in salted 
water with a bunch of parsley, take up and 
drain; serve with Allemande, parsley butter or 
anchovy cream sauce, . . . prepare, season with 
salt and pepper, roll in flour, saute in butter; 
serve with a strip of bacon and a little anchovy 
butter spread on it . . . prepare, season, roll in 
flour, bake with a little bacon fat till done and 
delicate brown in color; serve with Allemande 
sauce. 

PERIGUEUX — Name given to a sauce made by 
frying a delicate brown together some minced 
shallots, onion and ham, then moisten with a 
glass of white wine and allow to simmer till 
half reduced, then add an equal quantity of 
brown roux and good meat gravy, also some 
truffle peelings and a piece of meat glaze, sim- 
mer the whole for ten minutes, then pass 
through the china cap, add plenty of thinly 
sliced truffles and set in bain-marie for use. 

PERSIMMON — Name of a fruit resembling in 
appearance a smooth tomato, in color between 
the red and yellow sorts; best when having 
caught the frost; has a flavor from its pulpy in- 
terior like a mixture of a rough banana and 
tamarinds; its taste must be cultivated to be 



130 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



liked as a fruit. It is prepared in the Southern 
states as a beer, cider and wine. Also its pulp 
is rubbed through a sieve, mixed with corn 
meal instead of water and made into a sweet 
corn bread. 

PHEASANT — A fine game bird; should be hung 
by the tail for at least a week or till its gamy 
flavor is pronounced, then pluck, draw, singe, 
wipe and truss, plunge him into boiling salted 
water with an onion and some celery stalks; 
when he is tender take out; serve in portions 
with a good combined celery puree sauce con- 
taining an eqnal quantity of rich oyster sauce. 

BROILED PHEASANT— Take the very young 
birds, and after hanging, pluck, singe, split 
down the back, remove back and breast bones; 
season with salt and pepper, brush well with 
olive oil, place in a wire hinged broiler, broil 
over a cleared space of the charcoal till tender; 
serve with a brown game sauce. 

ROAST PHEASANT— Hung birds plucked, 
singed, drawn, wiped, trussed, breasts larded, 
bacon tied over the larded breasts, roasted and 
basted till done; served in portions with bread 
sauce. 

BRAISED PHEASANT— Hung birds plucked, 
singed, drawn, wiped, stuffed with aFinanciere 
ragout mixed with grated stale bread and a little 
grated lemon rind, trussed, braised with bacon, 
sweet herbs and a little game stock; when done, 
taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, 
then poured to a game sauce, reduced, finished 
with a glass of port wine; served in portions 
with some of the ragout under, the sauce over. 
. . . May also be braised without being stuffed, 
and served with a puree Soubise. . . also 
braised with cabbage lettuces and pork saus- 
ages; served garnished with the sausages and 
a game sauce poured over . . .also braised, 
served garnished with glazed sweetbreads, and 
a Financiere ragout. 

PHEASANT MAY BE USED TO PRODUCE 
ALMOST ALL THE ENTREES GIVEN 
WITH PARTRIDGE, AND NAMED AC- 
CORDINGLY. 

PICALLILI — Cut the following vegetables rather 
fine, crush the garlic, then add, pack all into 
stone crocks and cover with slightly salted 
water, and stand in a cool place for one day 
and night, then drain on sieve and press with 
cloths till dry; then place back into the crocks, 
cover with the boiling vinegar and spices, her- 
metically seal on the crock covers while con- 
tents are at boiling heat — ioo small cucumbers, 
3 small white cabbages, 18 small heads of cel- 
ery, 6 medium cauliflowers, 6 quarts of string- 
less beans, g each of medium sized green and 
red peppers, 4 cloves of garlic, 6 ozs. of mus- 
tard seed, 2 level teaspoonfuls each of ground 
allspice, mace aDd ginger, 2 heaping teaspoon- 



fuls of ground black pepper, enough cider vine- 
gar to well cover. 

PICKLES — When making any pickles from the 
receipts given under their respective headings, 
always use the best cider vinegar, scald to boil- 
ing point but do not let it boil, prepare always 
in either granite or porcelain lioed kettles, use 
wooden- spoons or paddles. A piece of horse- 
radish root in the jars will prevent the vinegar 
from becoming moldy. They should always be 
kept in stone or glass, and in a dry dark place. 

PICKLE — Aromatic salt pickle (German) — Take 
seven and half gallons of water, one pound of 
Indian cane sugar, half pound of pulverized 
cleaned saltpetre, three ounces of coriander 
seeds, half a dozen bay leaves, three cloves of 
garlic. Boil all for five minutes, let it cool, 
strain into brine tub through a fine strainer, 
throw away the refuse. This brine will keep 
all SUMMER, and can be used for every kind 
of meat. All meat from this pickle will have a 
fine red color and a pleasant taste. 

PICKLE PUMPS — There is perhaps no process 
so important in the curing of meat as pumping. 
Meat is liable to very quick decomposition un- 
less it is immediately brought in contact with a 
preservative of some kind, such as salt, borax, 
etc. In ordinary course if these preservatives 
were laid on the surface of the meat, they 
would mingle with the meat juices, dissolve 
and percolate slowly through the tissues; but 
this process is slow and under many conditions 
of temperature, dangerous. Hence the neces- 
sity of an appliance which brings the preserva- 
atives at once into operation. The salt brine 
or pickle is filtered so that it runs clear, and is 
then injected by the pickle pump into the meat 
to be cured. 

PICKLING BEEF AND HAMS— To 100 pounds 
of beef or hams, use 7 pounds of rock salt, 5 
pounds of brown sugar, 2 ounces of saltpetre, 
half an ounce of salaratus, mix together and 
boil in four gallons of water, skim while boil- 
ing and pour on to the meat hot. For hams to 
cure well, they should remain in the pickle for 
six weeks. 

PIG PRODUCTS— Under the name of fresh 
pork is comprised generally all the lean and 
fresh parts of the pig destined to be roasted or 
broiled, particularly the cutlets, the loin and 
small fillet. The loin is the fleshy part between 
the cutlets and the ham; it furnishes an excel- 
lent roast. The "filet mignon" as the French 
call it, is the long and narrow fleshy part under 
the kidney along the dorsal spine known to us 
as the pork tenderloin. It is the most delicate 
morsel of pork and weighs from half to a pound 
in weight. 

HAMS — Nearly always entire hams are salted 
(cured); sometimes they are used for cooking 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



131 



r f:er several days curing; sometimes for smok- 
ing or preserving a longer or shorter time; 
sometimes they are boned and used for the 
manufacture of different kinds of sausages. 

SHOULDERS — These are used to make rolled 
or boned hams; sometimes they are cured and 
smoked, and are then called fore hams or Cali- 
fornia hams; most often they are used for the 
manufacture of sausages. 

CAUL — The caul is mostly used for wrapping 
around different stuffed pieces such as truffled 
feet, stuffed cutlets, flat sausages, broiled liv- 
ers, etc. 

FRESH LARD-BACK FAT-LARDING PORK 
— Fresh lard or back fat. The fat between the 
skin and the flesh is called fresh lard or simply 
lard. There are two kinds, melting fat and 
hard fat; the first, or that nearest the flesh, is 
easily known by the touch; it yields to a mod- 
erate pressure of the fingers, and is used for 
making lard. The other, or hard fat, adheres 
to the skin and is not easy to melt; it is used 
for larding and in the preparation of a great 
number of products in the pork butchers' trade. 

KIDNEY FAT --Is the fat that covers the 
kidney and tenderloin; it is used for fine force- 
meats and in black puddings, to which it gives 
a delicate taste. From this fat also is obtained 
a very fine white lard superior to ordinary 
melted lard. 

GUT FAT — The fat that adheres to the intes- 
tines. If melted alone, lard of second quality 
is produced; more often it is melted with other 
lard so as to produce lard of ordinary quality. 

LUNGS, LIVER, HEART, KIDNEYS, BRAIN, 
SPLEEN — The lungs and liver form part of 
the ingredients of various kinds of sausages, 
liver pates, broiled and fried liver, etc. The 
heart, kidneys and brain are prepared by the 
culinary processes which are used for other 
similar pieces of butchers' meat. The spleen 
is generally used in sausages of an inferior 
quality. 

STOMACH — Comprises the small intestines, the 
coecum, the colon and the rectum. The small 
intestine is used as a casing for different kinds 
of sausages, black pudding (boudin noir) etc. 
The coecum, called also the bag or pocket, is 
used, as also the colon and the rectum and fat 
end for the packing of different sausages to 
keep, and for the making of stuffed chitterlings. 
The stomach or paunch requires long cooking, 
after which it is used in common sausages and 
chitterlings. 

TONGUE, EARS, SNOUT, FEET, HAMS AND 
TAIL — All these different pieces can be cooked 
alone, or v/ith vegetables without any special 
preparation being necessary. Very often they 
are put for some days in a brine. The tongue, 
ears and snout are used also for head cheese, 



collared brawn, etc. The tongue can also be 
used for converting into savory tongue. 
PIGS FEET — The handling of which, so as to 
produce a profitable return requires scientific 
method and absolute cleanliness. The feet 
should be used fresh as cut from the pig. The 
front feet are always used first as they are the 
best for turning into edible delicacies, and the 
hind feet contain more bone. The toes are 
pulled off and the hair clean shaved; the feet 
should then be well washed and scraped, tak- 
ing care not to cut them, as this causes them to 
break when cooking; after cleaning, fresh water 
should be kept running on them until they are 
to be cooked. The constantly changing of the 
water removes the blood and makes them more 
inviting and whiter when cooked. 

SKIN — The skin of the pig can be easily tanned. 
It furnishes a leather superior to that of the ox. 
It forms an important element in the making 
of jellies. Skin left on salt meat preserves it 
from the ravages of insects, and from the 
effects produced by the air. 

BLOOD — The blood of the pig is very valuable 
for the manufacture of blood puddings. It is 
used in cooking to thicken sauces; and it clari- 
fies jellies and gives them a beautiful golden 
tint. 

HAIR — The hair or bristles are used extensively 
in brush making. The bristles on the back 
serve as needles for hand sewn boot and shoe 
manufacturers. 

HOOFS — Pulverized hoofs make a very rich 
manure. They are also used in the manufac- 
ture of glue and Prussian blue. 

BONES — The bones are used in the making of 
soups and jellies. After being cooked they 
may be pulverised and used for manure. 

BLADDERS— The bladders after being well 
washed, blown and dried, are used for wrapping 
round sausages, and for filling with lard, also 
for hermetically sealing pots of preserves. 

GALL — The liquid contained in the gall bladder 
is very good for taking out grease stains with- 
out taking out the color of even the most deli- 
cate stuffs. Hence the products of the pig are, 
taken together, of immense value. 

BRINE FOR HAM, PICKLES, ETC.— Before 
proceeding with the subject of pork I will draw 
the "hotel butcher's" attention to the subject 
of his pickling, and as in some parts of the 
country the hotel keepers raise their own pigs 
and desire their cooks to use up every part of 
it to advantage I will give the receipts of ham 
pickles. 

Many butchers prepare their brines in a way 
as simple as it is DEFECTIVE. They are con- 
tent to dissolve a certain quantity of salt and 
saltpetre in cold water. THIS BRINE DOES 



132 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



NOT PRESERVE, and must not be used for 
delicate meats. 

Put into a boiler and let boil for ten minutes 
6 gallons of water, 21 pounds of salt, 6 pounds 
of sugar, 2 pounds of saltpetre, stir well during 
cooking, then empty out the brine and all that 
remains undissolved, allow to become quite 
cold, then add a quarter of a pound of mixed 
whole spices; rub the meat with powdered 
saltpetre and salt, place in the brine tub, pour 
over the brine. This brine is excellent and 
can be used for all kinds of meat, and notably 
for meat where special brines are not indicated. 

Boil as in the preceding 5 gallons of water, 8 
pounds of white salt, 2 pounds of gray salt, 2 >£ 
pounds of sugar, o.y 2 pounds of saltpetre; allow 
to cool, flavor with X pound of whole spices. 

Boil and cool as above 10 gallons of water, 
50 pounds of white salt, 4 pounds of gray salt, 
4^4 pounds of saltpetre, 5 pounds of sugar, 
flavor with y z pound of spices. 

In some Italian provinces an excellent brine 
is prepared, composed of 1J4 gallons each of 
Barola wine and water, 8 pounds of white salt, 
y 2 pound of gray salt, % pound of saltpetre, 
flavored with thyme, bay leaves, basil, savory, 
and juniper. 

In Westphalia the hams are pickled with a 
brine made with, 2^ gallons of water, 8 pounds 
of salt, 2 pounds of sugar, ^ pound of salt- 
petre, 2 ounces of spices tied in a muslin bag. 

For Bayonne hams, the following brine is 
used, \){ gallons each of good red wine and 
cold water, 8 pounds of white salt, 2 pounds of 
gray salt, 2 ounces of saltpetre, and a flavoring 
of sage, rosemary and lavender. 

There are two principal processes for salting 
meats: the wet process and the dry. Both 
have their merits, and their combined use of- 
fers advantages. THE WET PROCESS con- 
sists in steeping meats in a brine for some time, 
according to the thickness of the pieces of 
meats; it is carried out by the big packing com- 
panies, where the system of curing has reached 
a most perfect condition. THE DRY PRO- 
CESS: place the meats on the salting table, 
powder them with fine saltpetre, rub well into 
the meat, rub afterwards with gray salt (sea 
salt). Arrange them one beside the other in 
such a way that they will not get out of shape, 
then cover evenly with white salt; this opera- 
tion is renewed every two or three days until 
the salt has been well soaked into the inside of 
the flesh, a result which is obtained in from one 
to four weeks, according to the size of the 
pieces. This process is generally carried on 
by salt meat exporters. 

By the wet process the necessary salt flavor 
is obtained, inasmuch as they are immersed in 
brine more or less salted. With the dry pro- 
cess, on the contrary, the meats coming into 



immediate contact with the salt are impreg- 
nated too strongly. 

This difference in result is easily explained 
through the action of the salt. In both methods 
this condiment clears out the aqueous portions 
of the blood in the tissues and thus preserves 
the meat from taint. With dry salting it is 
pure salt which saturates the meats. In the 
wet process the brine, which acts like salt, be- 
ing a solution of it, impregnates in a much less 
degree the flesh, as it is so much weaker being 
in solution. If the wet process is used, noth- 
ing must be done until after the meats are 
thoroughly chilled, which is not often complete 
(according to temperature) before twelve to 
eighteen hours. If this precaution is neglected, 
and the warm meats were heaped into a brine 
tub, not only would they become unshapely, but 
they would become hot and ferment, the inevi- 
table consequence of which would be their cor- 
ruption and that of the brine. 

With the dry process the meats can be salted 
immediately after slaughter, which is favor- 
able to the success of the operation. In fact, 
it is known by the reason of its chemical com- 
position, meat tends to decomposition as soon 
as the animal ceases to live, and it is therefore 
apparent that the less advanced is the tainting, 
the greater is the success of the salting. 

PICKLING OF ROLLED HAMS— Choose hams 
that are not very fat, bone and trim them, 
pickle in brine for two weeks, wash in fresh 
water for an hour or so, brush the hams, beat 
with a mallet so as to make them round and 
uniform, tie with string, dry them in the air, 
then smoke them. When these hams are dry 
they can be served raw, but usually they are 
served cooked. 

FORE HAMS OR CALIFORNIA SHOULDERS 
— Trim the shoulders, cut them round, put 
through the dry process (as above) for three 
days, then through the wet process for ten 
days, take out of the brine, wash, scrub, dry, 
smoke, and finish like ordinary hams. 

PICKLING OF OX TONGUES— Cut away the 
dead flesh, the gristle, and the fat which is 
found at the root. Make on each side of the 
root slight incisions to facilitate the salting. 
Wash the tongues in running water, brushing 
them well, dry with a cloth, rub them with 
saltpetre, then with a mixture of 9 parts sait 
and 1 part sugar, and put them in a good brine 
for 12 days. Ox tongues, like those of pigs, 
calves and sheep, have on their thick side a 
slimy liquid, which easily taints the brine. 
This is why it is important to well wash and 
dry them before putting into the brine. 
For the same reason tongues should always be 
pickled alone in a special brine tub in which 
only the necessary quantity of brine should be 
put. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



133 



PIGS HEAD STUFFED— More often called 
"Boars Head (glazed)". Select a perfect head 
with good ears; the head must be cut off full, 
that is with two or three joints of the neck bone 
left on; carefully bone it; the head is then well 
washed in cold water to remove all blood, and 
put into a spiced pickle for six days; it is then 
well washed and stuffed tightly with pork sau- 
sage meat, a piece of rind being stitched on 
oack of head to keep the stuffing in. The head 
is then placed on a thin board and another 
piece placed alongside each cheek and tied in 
position to keep head in shape; the whole is 
now tied up in a cloth, and cooked gently, so as 
not to break the ears, but long enough to cook 
thoroughly; allow to cool, taking care to place 
in position, so that it cools to a good shape with 
ears erect; when cool insert glass eyes, and, if 
available, a pair of tusks, then glaze and dec- 
orate. 
PIGEONS — The young ones called squabs, are 
best split down the back, breastbone removed, 
trussed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
ia melted butter, broiled; served on toast 
with maitie d'hotel or piquante sauces. 
ROAST PIGEON— Young birds plucked, singed, 
drawn, wiped, trussed with bacon over the 
breast, roasted; served with their own gravy, 
garnish with cress. 
BREASTS OF PIGEON— Breasts of young birds, 
seasoned, breaded, and broiled, or fried; or 
coated with sauce then breaded and fried; 
or the breasts sauteed then breaded and fried; 
served with any garnish appropriate to dark 
fleshed birds or game. 
STEWED PIGEON WITH MUSHROOMS— 
Separated into four joints, sauteed with butter, 
taken up into a sautoir to which is added little 
lean ham, button mushrooms sauteed, bunch of 
pot herbs, seasoning, little red wine and stock, 
the whole simmered till tender; served with the 
mushrooms as a border. 
PIGEON PIE — Into a deep pie dish place on the 
bottom some thin slices of beef, then halves of 
young pigeons, slices of bacon, some forcemeat 
balls, mushrooms, and yolks of hard boiled 
eggs, little chopped parsley, moisten with sea- 
soned gravy, cover with a short paste, brush 
the top with egg wash, and bake gently till 
done, about an hour and a half. 
POTTED PIGEON-Young birds plucked, singed, 
drawn, wiped, stuffed with a mixture of grated 
bread, chopped parsley, chopped suet, grated 
hard boiled egg yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 
trussed, placed into a crock with celery, thyme, 
parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, glass of 
Madeira and a little stock, cover, place in oven, 
and cook gently till tender; served with the 
strained gravy, garnished with cress and lemon. 

COMPOTE OF PIGEON— Practically the same 



as above, generally garnished with sauteed 
button mushrooms. 

PIGEON CROUSTADE— Young birds prepared 
and trussed, arranged in a sautoir with slices 
of bacon, moistened with chicken broth, stewed 
till tender, taken up and placed in a toasted 
fancy bread croustade; served with financiere 
garnish poured around. 

CURRIED PIGEONS— Small young birds, one 
to the portion, prepared and trussed, placed in 
oven with bacon fat and quickly browned and 
basted, taken up into a curry sauce made of 
chicken and game stock, to which is added a 
grated green apple, simmered till tender; 
served garnished with timbales of rice or ris- 
soto. 

CURRIED PIGEONS WITH RICE— Split the 
birds in halves, take out the breast bone, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, roll them in curry 
powder and then in flour, mince some onions 
and a clove of garlic, fry them without much 
color in oil of butter, take up the onions; then 
fry the pigeons, moisten with stock, return the 
onions, add a grated sour apple, also a spoonful 
each of tamarinds and Bengal chutney with a 
little preserved ginger, simmer slowly till done, 
take up the birds, skim off any grease from the 
curry, strain it over the birds; make a border of 
dry boiled rice around the serving dish, place 
two halves of birds in the centre with some of 
the sauce poured over them. 

STUFFED PIGEON WITH POTATOES-Draw 
the bird as for roast, take out the breast bone, 
stuff with a mixture of bread crumbs, parsley, 
its own liver and heart minced with a little 
bacon, grated lemon rind, salt and pepper. Ar- 
range them in a sautoir, cover with stock and 
simmer slowly till tender. Make a mound of 
mashed potatoes on the serving dish, place a 
pigeon on top, pour over some of the gravy 
made from the stock the birds were simmered 
in. 

STUFFED PIGEON WITH VEGETABLES— 
Prepare the birds and cook as in the preceding 
recipe; when tender, take up the birds, then 
boil some Julienne cut vegetables in the stock 
the birds were simmered in, season, place the 
bird on a slice of toast, pour the gravy over it, 
and garnish with the drained vegetables. 

LARDED PIGEONS, GARNISHED— Lard the 
breast of the birds with bacon, arrange them 
in a sautoir, moisten with chicken stock and 
simmer till tender, take up, reduce the gravy to 
a glaze, roll the birds in it, and serve each one 
on a fancy croustade, pour over a little finan- 
ciere sauce, and garnish the base with a ragout 
of truffles, mushrooms, cocks combs and que- 
nelles of chicken. 
SALMIS OF PIGEONS— Take cold cooked birds, 
split in halves, arrange in a sautoir, moisten 



134 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



with a game sauce, add a glass of sherry wine, 
serve the birds on a fancy crouton, pour over 
a little of the sauce and garnish with stoned 
olives. 

BRAISED PIGEON WITH FLAGEOLETS— 
Prepare and stuff the birds as for "Stuffed 
pigeons with potatoes," braise them slowly till 
tender, take up, add a good brown sauce to the 
contents of the brasiere, reduce, then strain it 
over the pigeons; serve the bird on toast with a 
spoonful of the sauce poured over; garnish with 
some flageolets that have been sauteed in butter. 

FRICASSEE OF PIGEONS— Draw the birds as 
for roasting, take out the breast bone, stuff the 
aperture with a veal forcemeat, tie up, blanch, 
arrange in a sautoir, cover with a Veloute 
sauce, put on the cover and simmer slowly till 
tender; serve with green peas, and a fancy 
crouton at each end of the dish. 

BRAISED PIGEON, GARNISHED— Braise the 
birds till tender, split them in halves, arrange 
neatly on toast, pour over some of the strained 
and skimmed braise, garnish with stoned olives, 
button mushrooms, small quenelles, olive 
shaped pieces of carrot and turnip that have 
all been simmered in chicken or veal stock till 
done. 

ROAST PIGEON WITH TOMATOES— Take 
young birds and stuff them with breadcrumbs 
seasoned with salt, pepper, butter, minced 
parsley and onions parboiled in broth, add an 
egg to bind, cover the breasts with broad thin 
slices of bacon, roast, take up, add to the pan 
they were roasted in some Espagnole sauce, 
and a seasoning of Worcestershire sauce, boil 
up and strain, then add to it a little tarragon 
vinegar and chopped parsley; serve a spoonful 
over each bird, and garnish with sauteed toma- 
toes. 

SAUTE OF PIGEON— Split the birds down the 
back, remove the breast bone, flatten with the 
cleaver, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
flour, fry in butter - when done, take up and add 
flour to the butter they were fried in, moisten 
with stock, boil up and strain over the birds, 
add some chopped estragon leaves and a spoon- 
ful of tarragon vinegar, simmer a little while, 
then serve. 

SQUABS, SAUCE CRAPAUDINE— Draw the 
birds as for roasting, then without detaching 
the parts, cut the breast from the tip to the 
wing joint, turn the two ends so as to look like 
a frog, flatten with a blow of the cleaver, dip 
in melted butter, then in fresh grated bread- 
crumbs, broil slowly till done; serve with sauce 
crapaudine. 

BROILED PLOVER ON TOAST— Wipe the 
birds but do not draw them, broil over a clear 
fire, basting often with butter; serve on toast, 



garnish with a crouton spread with currant 
jelly. 

ROAST PLOVER— Wipe the birds but do not 
draw them, spread a thin piece of fat bacon 
over the breast, roast quickly till done; serve 
on a fancy croustade with a little game sauce 
poured over. 

BREAST OF PLOVER, EN SALMI— Wipe but 
do not draw the birds, roast, take off the breasts 
and simmer them in a game sauce containing 
minced mushrooms, take the trail of the birds, 
spread it on fancy croutons; serve the breasts 
on a Duchesse potato, pour the sauce around, 
and garnish with the croutons. 

BREASTS OF PLOVER WITH SWEET- 
BREADS — Roast the birds, then remove the 
breasts and place them in a sautoir with a lit- 
tle demi-glaze and some stoned olives. Take 
small sweetbreads lard and braise them; serve 
one of each with the sauce poured over them. 

PINTAIL — Name of one of our common wild 
ducks, is good stuffed and roasted, and in a 
salmi. 

PIQUANTE — Name of a sauce made with an 
equal number of chopped shallots and green 
gherkins, boiled till shallots are done in caper 
vinegar, then is added some capers, bay leaf 
and a few sprigs of thyme, boiled again till vin- 
egar is reduced to one third of its original vol- 
ume; remove the bay leaf and thyme, add 
enough good Espagnole sauce and a little 
chicken broth, till of the proper sauce consist- 
ency. 

PISTACHIO— Name of a pea green nut of al- 
mond flavor, used by pastry cooks and confec- 
tioners. 

PLUMS — As there are so many varieties grown, 
and all good for dessert, compotes, etc., I will 
simply here append a few ways of taking care 
of them when they are to be had very cheap. 

PLUM MARMALADE— Rub the plums but do 
not pare them, cut in halves and remove the 
stones, weigh them, and allow half a pound of 
sugar to each pound of fruit. Put the fruit in- 
to a preserving kettle, add sufficient water to 
cover the bottom, cover, and bring slowly to 
the boiling point, then stir and mash the fruit 
until fine, add then the sugar and some of the 
kernels blanched and minced, boil and stir 
continually for fifteen minutes, then draw to 
one side and allow to simmer for twenty min- 
utes more; pack away in stone crocks. 

PLUM BUTTER— Select mellow fruit, peel and 
remove stones, weigh the fruit then, and to each 
pound allow three quarters of a pound of sugar, 
place the fruit in preserving kettle, heat slowly 
to boiling point, then mash till smooth, then 
rub through a fine sieve into another kettle; 
add the sugar and boil for fifteen minutes, stir- 
ring continually; pack away in small jars. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



135 



PLUM JELLY — Take common blue plums, wash 
in cold water, place in preserving kettle, adding 
two quarts of water to each bushel of fruit, 
cover the kettle and heat slowly until the fruit 
is soft and tender, then turn into flannel jelly 
bag and let drip till fruit is dry. To every pint 
of this juice allow one pound of granulated 
sugar, put the juice into preserving kettle and 
bring it quickly to the boil, add then the sugar 
and stir till dissolved, then boil rapidly till it 
jellies, about twenty-five minutes; remove scum 
as it rises; as soon as it jellies, take jelly tum- 
blers, roll them in boiling water, fill with the 
boiling liquid, stand aside for 24 hours, then 
screw on the covers. 

PLUM PUDDING— As each and every pastry 
cook has his own favorite recipe for this dish, 
which is usually associated with Christmas, I 
will simply append one that has always given 
satisfaction to the best of critics: 

Pound and a half of raisins stoned and freed 
from stalks. . . Pound and a half of currants, 
rubbed and freed from stones. . . Pound mixed 
of citron, orange and lemon candied peels. . . 
Two and a half pounds of finely chopped beef 
suet. . . Two pounds of sifted flour. . . One and 
a half pounds of brown sugar freed from lumps 
. . . Eight eggs. . . One and a half pints of rich 
milk. . . The grated rind and juices of two lem- 
ons and two oranges. . . One ounce of mixed 
ground nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. . . Half 
a pint of Cognac and a teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix overnight before to be boiled in the 
morning; fill into molds or into a buttered and 
floured cloth; boil steadily for five hours; serve 
with hard and brandy sauces. 

PLUM CAKE — The finest wedding' cake as made 
by a late employer of mine: 

Pound and a half of sifted flour . . . Pound 
and a half of pure butter. . . Pound of powdered 
sugar. . . Pound of French cherries cut in 
halves (cerises glaces). . . Pound and a half of 
seeded raisins and cleaned currants (three- 
quarters of each). . . Half a pound each of 
shredded citron, orange and lemon candied 
feels. . . Half a pound of finely chopped al- 
monds. . . Eight whole eggs. . . Grated rind and 
juice of four oranges. . . Half an ounce of 
mixed ground cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. . . 
Half a pint of Cognac and a teaspoonful of 
salt. 

POMPANO — A most delicious nutty flavored fish 
of the Southern waters, broiled whole, or, if 
large, filletted and broiled; served with maitre 
d'hotel sauce, or melted butter and Tartar 
sauce aside, garnished with lemon and fancy 
potatoes. . . Broiled fillets of Pompauo served 
spread with Montpelier butter and garnished 
with Julienne potatoes. . . Filleted Pompano 
sauteed with strps of bacon, served with it and 
fancy potatoes. . . Small Pompano fried a deli- 



cate brown with butter, butter oil then poured 
off into another pan, browned, then is added 
lemon juice and chopped parsley; served over 
the fish, garnished with Saratoga chips. 

PORGIE— Name of a small fish plentiful in the 
Eastern States markets; served in every way 
applicable to perch. 

PORK TENDERLOIN WITH SWEET POTA- 
TOES — Season the meat with salt, pepper and 
sage, roll in flour, then in melted roast pork 
drippings, arrange in baking pan with small 
whole, or halved, peeled sweet potatoes, bake 
till done with plenty of basting, about three- 
quarters of an hour; serve with gravy made in 
the pan they were cooked in. 

STUFFED PORK TENDERLOIN— The meat 
split and stuffed with sage and onion dressing, 
tied with twine (which is afterwards removed), 
baked and served as the preceding. 

BROILED PORK TENDERLOIN— Split, sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and sage, rolled in 
flour, broiled well done, basting with butter; 
served with apple sauce, sauce Soubise or 
sauce Robert. 

BRAISED PORK TENDERLOIN— Braised with 
vegetables and bacon; when done, the braise 
strained and skimmed, then added to a sauce 
Robert or Lyonnaise, the tenderloin dipped in 
the sauce, then laid on a neat centre of puree 
of sweet potatoes, little more of the sauce 
poured around the base. 

CURRIED PORK TENDERLOIN— Take any 
unused tenderloins of the preceding receipt, 
cut them in neat scallops quarter inch thick, 
reheat them in a good curry sauce; served 
garnished with small glazed onions at the sides 
and a small mold of rice at the ends. 

CORNED PORK TENDERLOINS— Use tender- 
loins that have been in a good brine for three 
days, wash, boil slowly for three-quarters of an 
hour, take up and drain, then split in halves, 
season with pepper and powdered sage, roll in 
flour, arrange in baking pan, bake a delicate 
brown, basting with sausage drippings, serve 
garnished with Julienne vegetables in a cream 
sauce. 

ROAST LOIN OF PORK— With a boning knife 
separate the joints on the chine bone of the 
loin of pork (better than chopping it), season 
with salt, pepper and sage, score the rind, ar- 
range on a meat rest in baking pan, with sage 
and onion dressing under the meat, bake in a 
medium oven well done and brown; serve in 
chops on a spoonful of the dressing, gravy at 
the sides, and apple sauce served in a separate 
dish; also roasted without dressing, and served 
with Remoulade sauce. 

ROAST LEG OF PORK— Legs 10 to 12 pounds 
in weight are of best quality and most eco- 
nomical. Remove the foot, score the rinds in- 



136 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



to dice shape, roast in a medium oven well 
done two and a half to three hours; serve with 
sage and onion dressing, gravy, and apple 
sauce separate; or with tomato sauce, or Rob- 
ert, or Piquante sauce, or with baked apples. 
STUFFED LEG OF PORK— For serving cold. 
Lay the leg on table skin side down, remove 
the aitchbone, then cut along the leg bone to 
the knuckle joint, remove the leg bone leaving the 
knuckle bone in, fill the cavity with a stuffing 
composed of fresh mashed potatoes, minced and 
sauteed onion, salt, pepper, sage, pork sausage 
meat and one whole egg to each leg of pork, 
draw the meat together close, tie tightly, score 
the rind, bake slowly with a few apples in the 
pan, till done, basting with the apple juice and 
gravy; then take up and allow to get thoroughly 
cold; serve for luncheon or supper, in slices 
garnished either with small pickled onions, 
sliced gherkins, Tartar sauce, Remoulade 
sauce, puree of cranberries or puree of apples. 
After you have got the guests (especially in a 
family hotel) to try this dish, you will have to 
keep two or three on hand all the time to keep 
up the demand. 

BONED BOILED SALT LEG OF PORK— For 

serving cold. Use a 12 pound leg, get it fresh, 
remove the foot, rub with salt, wash it, pump 
it with brine; then lay it in brine for four days, 
take up, drain, remove the bones as in the pre- 
ceding recipe, draw the meat together, letting 
the thin side come right over the thick, tie 
tightly with twine, put to boil in cold water 
with a few bay leaves and an onion stuck with 
cloves, boil slowly for one hour and a quarter, 
then allow it to become thoroughly cold in the 
water it was boiled in; serve in slices with a 
garnish of horseradish mustard and a few 
pickles, or sliced tomatoes with Tartar sauce. 
or German potato salad. 

COLD ROLLED BELLY OF PORK(STUFFED 
OLIVES) — Nice lean bellies of pickled pork, 
may be boned, rolled, tied, then wrapped in a 
cloth and tied again like a roly poly pudding, 
boiled till tender, taken up and allowed to be- 
come cold in the cloth it was boiled in, the 
cloth then removed, the pork wiped with a hot 
wet cloth; served in slices garnished as above. 

BROILED PORK CHOPS— Remove the rind, 
cut the chops to an even thickness, trim off any 
superfluous fat, season with salt and pepper, 
roll in butter then in breadcrumbs and broil a 
golden brown, or broil them plain, and serve 
plain or with apple sauce, or with Robert, Tar- 
tare, Anchovy, Curry, Bretonne, Soubise or 
Lyonnaise sauces, or serve plain and garnished 
with fried sweet potatoes or fried apples. 

FRIED PORK CHOPS— Remove the rind or 
leave it on (some like it on), season with salt 
and pepper, roll in flour, fry with pork fat a 



golden brown; serve plain or with tomato, 
Robert, Piquante, Currj, Soubise or sage 
sauces, or with fried apples. 
PORK CHOPS SAUTEES-Trim the chops, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, fry them a golden 
brcwn with butter. Make a stiff puree of split 
peas, place a heaping spoonful in centre of 
dish, place chop on it, and pour a little gher- 
kin sauce over. 

PORK CROQUETTES, ANCHOVY SAUCE— 
Make the pork croquette mixture from cold 
roast pork trimmings, season it with a little 
sage, adding to stiffen it some perk sausage 
meat; serve with a brown thick roast pork gravy 
flavored with anchovy essence. 

EMENCE OF PORK WITH FRIED APPLES 
— Take the lean of cold roast leg of pork and 
cut in circular slices size of half dollars, dust 
them with salt, pepper and powdered sage, re- 
heat them in sauce Robert; serve on toast; 
garnished with slices of fried apples. 

SALT PORK WITH PARSNIPS— Lean pickled 
belly of pork, boil it with whole parsnips for 
half an hour, take up and drain, then slice the 
pork and quarter the parsnips, now fry the pork 
a golden brown, then the parsnips in the pork 
fat; serve two slices of each. 

MINCED PORK WITH FRIED APPLES— 
Lean minced fresh pork three parts; white 
bread soaked in milk, then squeezed dry one 
part; season with salt, pepper and powdered 
sage, add a few beaten eggs, mix all thoroughly; 
place it in a buttered baking pan, cover with a 
sheet of buttered paper and bake in a medium 
oven for an hour and a half, cut out in squares 
or diamond shape when done and served with 
fried apples. 

FRIED SALT PORK WITH APPLES- -Take 
the cold rolled belly of pork of a preceding 
recipe, slice it in quarter inch thicknesses, roll 
the slices in corn meal. Take sour cooking 
apples, core them, slice in half inch thick- 
nesses, then arrange the pork and apples alter- 
nately in a baking pan, brown off of an even 
color in a quick oven and serve. 

FRIED PORK KIDNEYS— Take the kidneys 
and split them, remove the white centres, soak 
them in salted water containing a little vinegar 
for an hour; then wipe dry, season with salt, 
pepper and powdered sage, roll in flour, fry a 
golden brown with butter; serve on toast, garn- 
ish with Brussels sprouts and pour over the 
kidneys a spoonful of maitre d'hotel butter. 

PORK SAUSAGES— These may be made in var- 
ious ways according to the price per day or 
meal of the hotel or restaurant. They are 
rarely made of the pure meat, as when so made 
they are too rich and unpalateable. If, how- 
ever, a large proportion of the meat used be 
lean the richness will to a great extent disap- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



137 



pear. It is in all cases, however, advisable to 
have present some cracker meal, bread or gran- 
ulated rice, even if added only in small quanti- 
ties, as by that means only, FIRMNESS can 
be obtained. The hotel butcher or cook should 
make all the sausages used for every purpose, 
and not have them purchased from the meat pur- 
veyor. In the case of the sausages that are 
smoked, etc., and served as a relish, that part 
of it can be always done by the people from 
whom your hams are purchased for a mere 
trifle. Further, it is my very firm convic- 
tion, that, the ordinary hotel butcher knows 
but little about sausage making. He should 
know! and I shall here devote several pages of 
this book to that teaching, with the hope that 
it will enable the hotel butcher to become of 
much more value to his employer, by economy, 
and also to become a man proper to use the 
title of butcher. Butchering is not merely cut- 
ting roasts, chops, steaks, hams, bacon, and do- 
ing general "garde mange" work; it consists of 
a knowledge of what to do with meat in its 
every use, and how to utilize every particle to 
advantage, hence, as you have read so far in 
this book, I have been profuse in explanations 
of the uses of meat and how to properly take 
care of it; as the BUTCHER'S BILL is al- 
ways the heaviest one for the proprietor to 
meet for the back part of the house. 

DANISH SMOKED SAUSAGE— The following 
recipes have been obtained from the largest and 
best sausage factory of Copenhagen, Denmark. 
For this recipe, use 25 pounds each of lean 
beef and pork, 12 pounds of fat cut fine and 8 
pounds of fat cut into small dice, two and a 
half pounds of salt. 30 gram, powdered salt- 
petre, 70 gram, powdered sugar, 85 gram, 
ground white pepper. Remove all sinews, then 
chop the beef *nd pork together; whsn about 
half chopped, add the 12 pounds of fat and fin- 
ish by chopping all fine, adding the seasonings 
toward the finish; then work in thoroughly the 
8 pounds of fat cut in small dice. When well 
mixed the whole mass should be packed tightly 
in a wooden trough for 24 hours so as to allow 
the saltpeter to effect its color and also render 
the mass more firm. The meat is then placed 
into the sausage filler, and filled into beef cas- 
ings as TIGHTLY AS POSSIBLE. The tighter 
the skin is filled, the better the sausage will be 
for cutting when dried. When the casings aie 
filled, they should be laid in a pickling tub and 
lightly covered with coarse salt, place a board 
on top and let them remain till the salt has 
turned into pickle, then lift them out and hang 
in the air until ALL moisture has run off them. 
When dry, they should be smoked in cold 
smoke until they are a rich dark brown in color. 
The sausage is then ready for eating, and will 
keep for several months. Length, about eigh- 
teen inches. 



CERVELATPOLSE OR DANISH BEEF AND 
PORK SAUSAGE— For this recipe, use 25 
pounds each of beef and pork, twelve and a 
half pounds of pork fat cut in small dice, one 
and a half pounds of salt, 30 gram, powdered 
saltpetre, 50 gram, ground white pepper, 50 
gram, powdered sugar, 13 gram, each of ground 
ginger and nutmeg. Remove all sinews, then 
chop the beef and pork together quite fine, 
adding the seasonings towards the finish, then 
add the diced fat and thoroughly mix. When 
mixed placed into the filler and fill TIGHTLY 
into beef casings, tying into 18-inch lengths; 
hang in the air for 24 hours, then smoke in 
very warm smoke till the skins are brown; then 
boil them until the sausage is as elastic as an 
indiarubber ball and will bounce if dropped on 
the table. This is a sure proof that the saus- 
age is thoroughly cooked. When done, dry 
them and glaze the skins. Serve as in the first 
recipe, in slices, as an appetizer or Hors 
d'oeuvre. 

KNOCKPOLSE OR HARD SMOKED DANISH 
SAUSAGE — For this recipe, use 21 pounds of 
beef, 12 pounds each of veal and pork and 5 
pounds of pork fat cut into small dice, one and 
a quarter pounds of salt, 30 gram, powdered 
saltpetre, 15 gram, ground nutmeg, 20 gram, 
each of ground cinnamon and ginger, 60 gram, 
ground white pepper, 4 garlic cloves and 4 
small shallots finely grated. First chop beef 
and veal together half fine, then add the pork 
and finish chopping till fine, adding the season- 
ings towards the finish; then thoroughly work 
in the pork fat cut in small dice. Place the 
meat in the sausage filler and fill into hog cas- 
ings, tying in six inch lengths, meat NOT to be 
filled too tightly. When filled, hang to dry for 
a day and smoke in warm smoke. Boil for eat- 
ing hot or cold. 

WEINERPOLSE OR BAVARIAN SAUSAGE— 
For this recipe, use 25 pounds of pork, 12 
pounds of veal, 12 pounds of pork fat, 20 
ounces of salt, 30 gram, powdered saltpetre, 30 
gram, ground coriander, 50 gram, powdered 
sugar, 60 gram, ground white pepper, 2 garlic 
cloves and 4 shallots grated fine. Use only the 
best meat and CAREFULLY remove all 
sinews. Mince the pork and veal together first, 
then mince the fat, then thoroughly mix all to- 
gether, adding the seasonings. Place into the 
sausage filler and fill into sheep or lamb cas- 
ings, tying into five inch links. Let them hang 
for 24 hours, then smoke in warm smoke until 
of a bright brown color; boil five to eight min- 
utes, when they are ready for the table. 

LEVERPOLSE OR LIVER SAUSAGE— For 
this recipe, use 1 large pig's liver, 10 pounds of 
veal (from the neck), 10 pounds of belly of 
pork, 8 pounds of pork fat, 3 pounds of salt, 40 
gram, powdered thyme, 50 gram, each of 



138 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



ground nutmeg and ginger, 60 gram, of pow- 
dered marjoram, 140 gram, ground white pep- 
per, 5 pounds of lean pork, 4 small onions in 
winter, NONE in summer, as they easily cause 
acidity. Remove sinews and gristle from the 
pork and veal, boil them and mince together. 
The fat to be cut into small dice, the liver to be 
skinned, and the thick veins removed and to be 
boiled in the boiling broth for five minutes; 
then chop it a little, add a little salt, and mince 
quite fine. Now throw the minced veal and 
pork, diced fat and liver into the mixer along 
with the five pounds of minced RAW lean pork, 
add the spices and a cupful of the fat and water 
from the broth and mix altogether thoroughly. 
Place the meat into the sausage filler and fill 
into hog casings NOT too tight, tying into 18- 
inch lengths. Then boil the sausages in boil- 
ing water 20 minutes, take up, wash them and 
lay them on a table to cool. They are then 
ready for the table, cut in slices cold. Are also 
used fried in slices warm. This sausage can 
be smoked in cold smoke in winter, and keeps 
well. 

LEVERPOSTEJ.LIVERWURST OR DANISH 
LIVER SAUSAGE— 10 pounds of pigs' flare, 
3 or 4 pig's livers according to size, 4 to 5 
pounds of minced lean pork, 10 eggs, 6 to 12 
anchovies according to size. Add pepper, salt, 
nutmeg and cinnamon to season according to 
taste. Fill into beef casings, boil two hours. 
These are well liked by most people. 

BEEF SAUSAGES— A good article for the 
"help's hall". Take 20 pounds of flank of 
beef freed from skin and bones, cut it up into 
inch pieces and mix thoroughly into it 10 
ounces of salt, 4 ounces of pepper, half an 
ounce of ground nutmeg, and 2 ounces of 
rubbed sage, then mince through the machine; 
meanwhile soak 4 loaves of bread (eight pounds) 
squeeze it dry and amalgamate with the meat, 
then add DRY, three pounds of sifted cracker 
meal; then place the whole into the sausage 
filler and fill into sheep casings, link them; 
then separate the links, arrange in baking pan, 
and bake till done and brown, about 15 min- 
utes. 

BLOOD SAUSAGE- Use cheek meat, heart, 
lungs, and pork rinds in any quantity that is 
convenient. Cut the pork rinds into small 
pieces, boil in clean water until three parts 
cooked, saving the broth and the rinds. Cut 
the balance of the meat together quite fine, 
and boil it slowly with the pork rinds and 
broth, allowing the broth to cover the meat. 
Remove the fat that comes to the surface, cook 
until it is well done. Take one gallon of calf's 
or pig's fresh blood immediately after killing. 
Stir it in a vessel 10 to 15 minutes until it will 
retain its fluid condition. Then pass through 



a fine sieve to break up any lumps. Mix 15 
pounds of the cooked meat as above with one 
gallon of blood and season to taste. Pour 
through a funnel into beef middle casings, fill- 
ing three parts full, the end being tied. Tie 
the open end, and place the sausage in the 
broth and allow it to boil. The blood, in cook- 
ing, will expand and fill out the remaining part 
of the casing. Stir continually, or the blood 
will all collect in the lower side of the casing. 
When cooked, the sausage will rise to the sur- 
face, owing to the expansion of the air. Where 
ever air collects, pierce with a fork or fat will 
fill these places. When of a good appearance, 
remove and wash in clean cold water and allow 
it to remain there till cold. The sausage may 
be improved by smoking cold over a low fire of 
shavings and sawdust. A hot fire will cause it 
to sweat and spoil its appearance. 

BLOOD SAUSAGE (NORTH GERMANY)— 
Boil fat pork till not quite cooked and then cut 
it into small dice. To every 10 pounds boil 2 
pounds of well dried pork rinds, and a calf's or 
pig's lungs, or, instead of that, a corresponding 
quantity of pork trimmings. When these are 
boiled tender, put the rinds and lungs or trim- 
mings through the mincing machine, scald the 
pork dice, and add enough well beaten pig's 
blood to make the whole moderately liquid, 
then get the exact weight (reckon 12 pounds to 
the gallon). To every gallon add 6 ounces of 
salt, 1 ounce of white pepper, % ounce each 
of ground cloves and marjoram. Stir all well 
together and fill into casings. Boil about an 
hour and a half until no blood oozes out on the 
sausages being pricked. On coming out of the 
boiler, wash in warm water, and lay on a table 
to cool, and afterwards smoke for a few days 
in cold smoke. (To every 10 pounds of sausage 
meat, reckon about one and a half pounds of 
blood). * 

BLOOD SAUSAGE (FRENCH)— Take equal 
quantities of lean and fat pork and boil it till 
tender; then cut the fat into small dice and the 
lean meat into small pieces. Meanwhile have 
some onions, leeks and shallots steamed soft, 
added to the above meat. To every 10 pounds 
of this sausage meat add 2 pounds of pig's 
blood, 5 ounces of salt, ]/ 2 ounce of white pep- 
per and one tenth of an ounce each of ground 
mace and thyme. Stir all well together and fill 
into narrow hog casings. Boil until no blood 
exudes on being pricked. Then remove and 
wash in warm water, and let cool on a table. 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE— Use lean fresh meat, 
trimmings and cheek meat. Chop together 
very fine; while chopping add spices and sea- 
soning, and from 25 to 30 ounces of salt to 
every 100 pounds of meat. To every 100 
pounds of beef add 5 pounds of pure fat, either 
fresh or salted pork. When the beef is nearly 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



139 



chopped add from one to one and a half pounds 
of farina and sufficient water to suit; mix 
thoroughly. Stuff into beef middle casings. 
Tie the ends together into rings 24 inches long. 
Smoke with hickory wood and hickory sawdust, 
remove when well colored, cook in boiling 
water. When the bologna is sufficiently cooked 
it will rise to the top. Pepper and coriander 
are the spices used for bolognas. 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE (ITALIAN)— Take 27 
pounds each of raw lean pork, cooked pickled 
pork and raw veal, 5 pounds of anchovies finely 
chopped together. Then add 14 pounds of raw 
fat pork cut in small dice; season with 18 
ounces of salt, n ounces of white pepper, 4 
ounces of ground caper, 21 ounces of peeled 
pistachio nuts cooked in wine. After carefully 
mixing the meat and spices, distribute amongst 
it six pickled and cooked tongues cut in slices. 
Then fill into beef middle casings or bungs. 
Wrap each sausage in a clean cloth, tie round 
with twine, then boil one hour, take up, lay 
them out in a cool place for 24 hours, remove 
the cloth, wipe with a warm cloth, pour over 
them either colored or uncolored fat, then dec- 
orate. 

BRUNSWICK, CERVELAT SAUSAGE— For 
every block of fifty pounds take 28 pounds of 
lean pork, 10 pounds of lean beef freed from 
sinews, 12 pounds of bacon fat cut in shreds, 2 
pounds of salt, 3 ounces of coarse ground white 
pepper, 1 ounce of powdered saltpetre, 2^ 
ounces of powdered sugar. First mince the 
beef very fine, then add the pork and mince 
and mix the two together till the pork is about 
the size of peas; then add the pork fat which 
must be mixed until it shows amongst the rest 
in pieces the size of beans; then add the mixed 
spices and salt, mixing well. After a thorough 
mixing, place into the filler and stuff tightly in- 
to small middle beef gut casings. They must 
now be hung in a well ventilated room of 60 
degrees temperature for two weeks until they 
begin to look red under the skins; then smoke 
them in cold dry smoke until they take on a 
cherry red color; then keep in a well aired 
room for use or sale. 

SARDINE AND LIVER SAUSAGE— For this 
recipe, use 8 pounds of pigs liver, 7 pounds of 
lean and 4 pouuds of fat fresh pork, 6 pounds 
of fresh bacon and l /z a pound of sardines, 12 
ounces of salt, 1% ounces of white pepper, ]/ z 
an ounce each of ground ginger and marjoram, 
and Yi of an ounce of ground thyme. Cut the 
liver into strips, wash it, then blanch it; drain 
dry, then chop it. Boil the lean pork for half 
an hour, then chop with the liver; blanch the 
fat pork and add it with the bacon and season- 
ing and sardines, mincing all fine and thor- 
oughly mixing. Fill this into skins nine inches 
long, not too tightly, boil for half an hour with- 



out pricking them, then take them up into cold 
running water, letting the water run till they 
are cold and firm. 

MOSAIC SAUSAGE— Take an 18 pound leg of 
pork, bone it out and remove all skin and 
sinews, this will leave 15 pounds of meat; cut 
this up, put into a stone crock after first rub- 
bing into it 12 ounces of salt, 1 ounce of cane 
sugar, and y 2 an ounce of powdered saltpetre; 
put on the cover and allow to macerate for 24 
hours, then take it from the crock and mince it 
with 5 pounds of lean veal, adding during the 
mincing 1 ounce of white pepper, l /$ of an 
ounce each of mace and ginger and one-sixth of 
an ounce of cardamons. Then fill into skins 6 
inches thick and 8 inches long, three parts full. 
To make the mosaic work use long inch square 
pieces of red cooked tongue each wrapped 
neatly with a thin shred of bacon fat, also a 
column each of blood sausage, Frankfort sau- 
sage and liver sausage, each wrapped like 
the tongue. To insert these columns, take a 
stick a little thicker than the column, dip it in- 
to cold water, push it into the sausage, with- 
draw it, then slip in the mosaics at equal dis- 
tances, then tie the sausage, hang up in smoke 
for one hour, then boil very gently for an hour 
and three quarters, then smoke again lightly 
[N. B. Both while smoking and simmering, 
keep the sausage in an upright position so that 
the inlaying may be kept straight]. 

CAMBRIDGE SAUSAGE— This makes a nice 
breakfast sausage: Take 12 pounds of lean and 
6 pounds of fat pork, cut it into small pieces and 
rub well into it 9 ounces of prepared sausage 
seasoning, pass through the mincing machine, 
then mix into it 3 pounds of scalded rice, 2 
pounds of cracker meal. Place the whole then 
into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link up 
and use. 

COBLENZ SAUSAGE— A good seller for restau- 
rants: Take 10 pounds each of veal and pork, cut 
it up and allow to macerate for 24 hours after 
being rubbed with 12 ounces of salt and % an 
ounce of powdered saltpetre. First chop the 
veal very fine, then add the pork and chop all 
together, adding r ounce of white pepper, ^ of 
an ounce each of ground ginger and peppermint, 
three shallots and three cloves of garlic. Mince 
till the fat shows through the rest like pin heads, 
then add water as much as the meat will take, 
leaving it very stiff; place then into the filler, fill 
into sheep casings, link them up into 6 to the 
pound; hang up for some hours to dry: then 
smoke with mixed sawdust at a temperature of 
ioo" Fahr, till they are a beautiful dark orange 
color, about 1 hour. To serve, simmer them 
for 10 minutes. 

EPPING SAUSAGE— (1). 23 pounds of lean 
beef, 7 pounds of fat pork, 8 pounds of bread, 



140 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



soaked and pressed dry, 4 ounces of white pep- 
per, 13 ounces of salt, % of an ounce each of 
ground nutmeg and ginger, % of an ounce of 
rubbed marjoram. Mix the seasonings with 
the meat, mince fine, then work in the bread; 
place into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link 
them, and use by frying and broiling. 

EPPING SAUSAGE— (2). 30 pounds of pork 
fat and lean, 8 pounds of bread soaked and 
pressed dry, 4 ounces of white pepper, 13 
ounces of salt, % of an ounce each of mace 
and rubbed sage. Prepare and use as above. 

FRANKFORT SAUSAGES(WEINERWURST) 
— 9 pounds of veal, 36 pcunds of lean pork and 
5 pounds of fat pork. Chop finely, adding a 
seasoning of 1 pound of salt, 6 ounces of white 
pepper, and one head of garlic; when ready 
place into the filler and fill into sheep casings, 
linking them at about four to the pound. Smoke 
for 48 hours, boil for 5 minutes before serving 
plain or with sauerkraut, etc. 

CHICKEN HAM AND TONGUE SAUSAGE— 
10 pounds of lean pork, 4 pounds of fat pork, 4 
pounds of veal, 2 pounds of ox tongue, 4 pounds 
of granulated rice scalded, 2 pounds of cracker 
meal, the meat from one fowl and six hard 
boiled eggs, 9 ounces of salt, 3 ounces of pep- 
per, y z an ounce each of ground mace and 
finely chopped parsley, and % of an ounce of 
powdered thyme. Cut the meats into pieces, 
add the seasoning and rice, mince altogether till 
fine, then the eggs minced, and the meal, fill into 
weasand casings, simmer slowly for an hour, 
use cold in slices. 

TRUFFLED LIVER SAUSAGE-Take 5 pounds 
of pig's liver and 3 pounds of fat pork. Mince 
these together very fine, and add a % of a pound 
of truffles cut into narrow strips and cooked in 
wine. Add a seasoning of salt and pepper and 
knead together. Fill into narrow hog casings, 
simmer for about half an hour, wash well in cold 
water and hang up to dry. If to be kept any 
time, smoke for a dry. Take care to use no 
spices, otherwise the flavor of the truffles will be 
spoiled. 

GOOSE LIVER SAUSAGE, TRUFFLED-Take 
2 pounds of well blanched calf's liver cut in 
pieces the size of small nuts, 4 pounds each of 
lean and fat firm fresh pork both minced very 
fine. Next add 4 shallots sliced and fried with 
butter to a golden color. Season with 5 ounces 
of salt, ]/ z an ounce of white pepper, one-fifth 
of an ounce each of ground ginger and mace. 
Then cut from a fine red cooked tongue half 
a pound, cut in very small dice also a quarter 
of a pound of truffles; mix all well. Then take 
5 pounds of geese livers blanched and sliced. 
Fill into the filler alternately the truffled meat 
and the sliced geese [livers. Then press into 
very wide pig skins not more than 12 inches 



long. Boil them gently one hour in fresh clear 
water. When done, take up into cold running 
water, which will make them beautifully white. 
LIVER SAUSAGE— To every two hog's livers 
add one calf's liver; cut in thin slices. Scald 
well with hot water until the livers look white 
and clean. Chop well, adding one-eighth the 
amount of pure pork fat, boiling the fat for half 
an hour before mixing. Mix and chop together 
very fine, adding four ounces of fat pork to 
every five pounds of the balance. Then boil 
for half an hour, adding the following spices to 
each 100 pounds: 7 ounces salt, 2 ounces pep- 
per, 1 ounce ground marjoram, Yz ounce each 
of ground sage, basil and thyme, 2 minced 
onions and a small head of garlic. Stuff from 
stuffer into narrow hog casings 13 to 18 inches 
long (not filling very full) tying the ends with 
twine. When filled and tied, they are cooked 
in water just below the boiling point for thirty 
minutes (to give the white appearance) contin- 
ually stirring them. Care must be taken to 
prick the air places, or they will fill with fat. 
After cooling, hang for three days in the open 
air, then smoke for six days over a slow fire. 
SARDINE LIVER SAUSAGE— Use 40 pounds 
boiled pigs' livers, 7^ pounds boned and 
trimmed sardines, 15 pounds cooked veal, 7% 
pounds cooked lean pork, 20 pounds cooked fat 
pork, 10 pounds raw fat pork. Chop together 
very fine, and add 14 ounces salt, 10 ounces 
white pepper, 1 ounce each ground thyme and 
marjoram. Stuff into beef middle casings. 
Cook and smoke the same as the liver sausage 
of the preceding recipe. 
LYONS SAUSAGE — (German recipe). The 
Lyons sausage (Saucisse de Lyon) was intro- 
duced into Germany in ths year 1852 by Lill 
on his return from his tour in France. Sausage 
makers throughout Germany then tried to make 
it, because of his success with it, but no one 
else succeeded. It can only be manufactured 
to keep by taking the greatest of care. When 
it is well made and well dried, it would pass for 
Cervelat sausage. It is prepared in the follow- 
ing manner: For a quantity of 40 pounds take 
25 pounds of well fed pork, 10 pounds beef from 
a young bullock, which should be chopped up 
when warm and then pounded in mortar, 5 
pounds pork fat, cut into dice the size of peas 
and then cooked for a little in boiling water, 12 
ounces salt, 2 ounces Indian cane sugar, 1 ounce 
powdered saltpetre. Mix the two lean meats, 
then mix the salt, saltpetre and sugar. Rub 
them into the meats, and let it stand for 48 
hours in a cool room in summer, and a warm 
room in winter. Now chop up the meat fine, 
then mix the seasonings and add them. They 
are 2 ounces white pepper, % ounce each of 
ground white ginger and nutmeg, 2 shallots 
salted and grated. Before the pork fat is put 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



141 



amongst the rest, the spices should be well 
mixed up amongst the other things and a little 
water worked into the mass. Now mix in 
lightly and quickly the pea diced pork fat. Put 
the meat into medium wide beef runners, 15 
inches long, pressing it in very tight. Now 
DRY the sausages WELL before smoking. 
When they are smoked a fine red color, put 
them at once into a saucepan, and cook for half 
an hour at a heat of 203^ Fahr. When the 
sausages are cool, there are usually some 
wrinkles in the skin; this can be remedied by 
putting them in pairs into boiling water not 
more than fifteen seconds. After they arecocl 
again, they should be smoked in cold smoke for 
eight hours; they are then ready. 
OBERLAND LIVER SAUSAGE — Take a 
shoulder of pork and remove the bones and 
skin. Boil it well with three pounds of bacon 
cut in dice. Then mince the shoulder with 
half its weight of raw liver and a large onion 
chopped very fine; add the diced bacon and 
season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, 
and mix in a little fat if the paste is too stiff. 
Stuff into ox skins and boil gently for 40 min- 
utes. Then take up into cold running water, 
and keep them in it until quite stiff. 
POLISH SAUSAGE— This is the national sau- 
sage of Poland, liked by rich and poor: Take 
25 pounds of pork, 73 lean, and y$ fat, which 
has been salted for a few days with 1 pound 
salt and a little sugar. Grate finely three large 
cloves of garlic, salt them, stir in amongst them 
a quart of water. Then add the meat which 
has been chopped into dice size. Now add i}i 
ounces pepper, l / z ounce grated nutmeg. Mix 
well and put into narrow pig skins very full. 
When filled, tie into fifteen inch lengths; hang 
to dry for a day; then smoke them with beech 
wood at a heat of 133" Fahr. , and let them hang 
till they are thoroughly cooked inside merely 
with the hot smoking. 
PORK SAUSAGES (first class)— Take 15 pounds 
of lean and 6 pounds of fat pork, cut it up into 
two inch pieces and mix with it 14 ounces of 
pork sausage seasoning, (from recipe below); 
chop together fine, or run through meat cutting 
machine with a fine plate; then thoroughly in- 
corporate with it 3 pounds of crumb bread 
soaked and pressed. V/hen mixed, further 
work in one pound of sifted cracker dust. 
Place the mass then iuto the sausage filler, and 
run into pig casings, linking them at six to the 
pound. 
PORK SAUSAGES(good ordinary sausage)-Take 
15 pounds lean and fat pork and pork trim- 
mings, cut it up into two-inch pieces and mix 
with it 11 ounces of pork sausage seasoning; 
chop fine, then thoroughly incorporate with it 4 
pounds of crumb bread soaked and pressed. 
When mixed, further work in 4 pounds of sifted 



cracker dust, adding cold water to it as it be- 
comes too stiff. When of the proper sausage 
consistency, place into the filler, and fill into 
pork casings, linking them six to the pound. 
PORK SAUSAGE SEASONING — Thoroughly 
mix together, then keep in tight covered tins, 
9 pounds table salt, 6 pounds pure ground 
white pepper, l / z pound each of ground mace, 
ground nutmeg, and rubbed sage leaves, 1 ounce 
each of ground cloves, ginger and rubbed basil, 
and y z an ounce of cayenne pepper. 
SALAMI — Use 50 pounds of beef free from fibre, 
25 pounds each of lean and fat pork, chop very 
fine and add i% l / 2 ounces of salt, 4>2 ounces 
ground white pepper, i l / 2 ounces ground salt- 
petre, with 8 glasses of Rhine wine, in which 
previously has been soaked one pound of garlic. 
(In place of Rhine wine, rum may be used). 
Stuff into calf's bladders. Let them hang in 
the open air for two or three weeks, then smoke 
for 12 days. 
VERONA SALAMI (Salami de Verona)— Use 18 
pounds of cleaned beef, 18 pounds of lean pork, 
14 pounds of back fat, 2 pounds of salt, 1 ounce 
of powdered saltpetre, 3 ounces each of ground 
white pepper and cane sugar, 1 gill of old 
French cognac. First mince the meat, thei 
chop the fat in amongst it the size of pecan 
nuts; then mix in the spices, and chop until the 
fat is the size of peas. Wipe the knives often 
while mincing. Three sticks of garlic finely 
grated may be added. Use skins for holding 
this, and bind with pretty thick string all the 
way over. For the rest, prepare like "Cerve- 
lat sausage" but do not smoke; only let the salami 
hang for four or five weeks to dry. 
SMOKED SAUSAGE OR KNACKWURST— 
Take 60 pounds of lean pork, 14 pounds of 
lean beef and 26 pounds of fat pork. Chop very 
fine, then add 1 pound salt, sH ounces ground 
pepper, i}4 ounces ground saltpetre, 2^ ounces 
whole caraway seeds, a small quantity of grated 
garlic. Stuff in beef rounds or hog casings. 
Hang in the air for 8 days, then smoke for 6 
days, they may then be preserved in a cool 
dry place. 
TENDERLOIN SAUSAGE— Take the pork 
tenderloins and trim them as near the shape of 
a sausage as possible; rub with hot salt, and 
place for two weeks in a vessel containing a 
solution of 17 ounces of salt boiled in 5 pints of 
water. Remove, wash, and stuff tightly in 
beef bungs. Smoke for two weeks. 
THURINGIAN RED SAUSAGE— 14 pounds 
thick streaky pork off the belly part (half tend- 
erly cooked) cut in quarter inch dice, 3 pounds 
of boiled pigs rinds, 4 pounds raw liver and 
lungs finely minced. This may be varied by 
substituting boiled tongue or salted boiled 
heart, cut into pieces of equal size. Now put 8 



142 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



pounds of blood in a tin dish, and then into a 
big pot, and stir CONSTANTLY until hot. 
Add first the rind, liver and lungs, and stir 
well, and then the pork. Season with 24 ounces 
of table salt, 3 ounces ground white pepper, 1 
ounce ground marjoram, ]4, of an ounce each 
of ground caraway seeds and ground cloves. 
Work all thoroughly together, and as quickly 
as possible fill the hot meat into the widest 
pigskins you have. Give plenty of room, and 
then put at once into water which is BOILING 
HARD; stir constantly. Prick this sausage 
often, and cook at a temperature of 212 Fahr. 
It is ready when, on pricking, the fat which ex- 
udes is perfectly clear. Smcke in cold smoke, 
with some juniper berries in the sawdust. 

TOMATO SAUSAGES- -Lean mutton 6 pounds, 
mutton fat 8 pounds, canned tomatoes 3 pounds, 
sifted cracker dust x l /2 pounds, scalded granu- 
lated rice 1 pound, 10 ounces sausage season- 
ing. Cut the meat up fine in the machine, take 
out into a mixer, and add the rice and tomatoes, 
then the seasoning and the cracker dust. Place 
in the filler, fill into sheep casings, and link 
them 6 to the pound. (When cheap enough, 
use fresh tomatoes). 

VEAL SAUSAGES— Chop together 22 pounds of 
veal freed from sinew and n pounds of bacon, 
and make very fine; season with 12 ounces of 
salt, iy 2 ounces ground white pepper, 3 nut- 
megs grated and y 2 ounce of ground mace. 
Knead all together, adding a pint of milk. Fill 
into narrow skins. 

WESTPHALIAN SAUSAGE— Take three parts 
of lean and one part of fat pork, and cut into 
pieces like small dice; then season with salt, 
pepper and cloves, so that it tastes mildly of 
the spices, and knead all together. Stuff into 
long narrow casings, and let dry out of doors 
for several days; then smoke yellow. NOTE: 
The above sausage is made almost exactly like 
the 

SASTER SAUSAGE of the country people of 
Scotland, only the Scotch omit the smoking, 
and the "sasters" are dried by hanging from a 
string attached to the ceiling in the kitchen. 
The Scotch sausages are usually kept for sev- 
eral months before being used. 

POTATOES are much improved if peeled and 
laid in cold water overnight. It saves time in 
the morning, and they are nicer and whiter in 
consequence. 

IN STEAMING POTATOES, put a cloth over 
them before placing on the steamer lid, they 
will then take less time to cook and be much 
more mealy than when steamed without the 
cloth. 

TO EXTRACT FROST FROM POTATOES— 
After paring, put them in cold water for an 



hour, boil them with a small piece of saltpetre 
and the sweet taste will be removed. 

POTATOES BAKED IN THEIR SKINS, will 
always come out more dry and mealy, if a small 
piece be cut off ONE end, to allow steam to 
escape in cooking. 

POTATOES WHEN BOILING are sometimes 
allowed too much water, so that it boils over 
on to the range, producing a very disagreeable 
smell. A little baking soda thrown on to any 
burning overflow of this nature will immed- 
iately drive away all odors. 

FRENCH FRIED POTATOES— Raw peeled 
potatoes cut in strips about the size of the little 
finger, fried in hot fat till done, taken up and 
drained, sprinkled with salt, then served. 

PARISIENNE POTATOES-Balis about the size 
of small cherries scooped out of raw potatoes; 
cooked and served the same as French fried. 

LYONNAISE— Cold boiled potatoes, either 
minced or sliced thinly, seasoned with salt and 
pepper, mixed with a little chopped parsley and 
minced fried onions; fried with butter in the 
form of an omelet. 

SAUTE— Also called HOME FRIED, COT- 
TAGE FRIED, GERMAN FRIED: are thinly 
sliced cold boiled potatoes, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, browned on both sides in a fry pan 
containing butter. For RESTAURANT serv- 
ice they should be served in the form of an 
omelet, nicely browned. 

STEWED IN CREAM— Raw potatoes cut in 
very small dice, boiled till perfectly done, 
drained, put in a stew pan with a piece of good 
butter, seasoned with salt, covered with cream, 
simmered for two or three minutes, then served. 

HASHED IN CREAM— Same as the preceding, 
but having the potatoes minced after whole 
boiling, instead of cut in dice. 

SCALLOPED POTATOES— Same as stewed in 
cream above; when rerdy to serve, put into 
scallop or vegetable dishes, sprinkle with grated 
cheese and breadcrumbs, brown off quickly in 
the oven or under a salamander. 

HASHED BROWNED— Same as the minced 
Lyonnaise, but omitting the parsley and onion. 

JULIENNE — Raw peeled potatoes cut in shreds 
like matches, fried a delicate brown in very hot 
lard, taken up and drained, sprinkled with salt 
and fine parsley dust. 

STEWED WITH BACON— Bacon cut in small 
dice, fried well done, drained, mixed in with 
potatoes stewed in cream. 

POTATOES REITZ— Shapes of the parallelo- 
gram, or long square (about two inches long 
and an inch square) cut with a ribbed scallop 
knife, steamed two-thirds done, then plunged 
into hot fat and finished like French fried. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



M3 



POTATOES VILLAGEOISE— Cold boiled pota- 
toes, minced and simmered in Bechamel sauce. 

SARATOGA CHIPS— Very thin shavings of 
peeled potatoes cut with a machine, steeped in 
ice water to draw out the starch and beccme 
crisp; fry a few at a time in very hot lard. 

POTATOES BROILED— Either plain or sweet 
potatoes, cold boiled, cut lengthwise one-fourth 
of an inch thick, seasoned with salt, dipped in 
melted butter, then in flour, broiled between a 
a wire hinged broiler; served with maitre 
d'hotel butter over them. 

STUFFED FOTATOES— Whole peeled pota- 
toes, made hollow with a column cutter, ends 
levelled, the both then steamed, the column 
pieces mashed, and mixed with one-third of its 
bulk of grated Parmesan cheese; seasoned with 
salt and pepper, grated nutmeg and bound with 
some whipped eggs; stuff the potatoes with the 
mixture, arrange in a baking pan with butter 
and brown off quickly. 

STUFFED FOTATOES— Large oval shaped po- 
tatoes, peeled, hollowed out as above, filled with 
any kind of forcemeat, placed in a well buttered 
pan, and baked a delicate brown. 

POTATO CROQUETTES— Steamed potatoes' 
mashed dry, seasoned with salt, butter and a 
few raw egg yolks, formed into shapes like 
corks, breadcrumbed and fried. Also shaped 
like olives with two tea spoons, dipped in bat- 
ter and fried. 

STUFFED POTATO CROQUETTES— Smab 
croquettes in the form of ccnes, breaded and 
fried, drained; inside then partly hollowed out. 
and replaced with a salpicon; served upright. 

POTATOES DUCHESSE —Potato croquette 
mixture, only a little softer, with butter and 
yolks of eggs, forced from a bag with a star 
shaped tube, on a buttered pan, brushed over 
with egg wash and baked. 

POTATO FRITTERS— The croquette mixture- 
with some beaten whites of eggs worked in, 
shaped, breaded, fried; served with parsley 
sauce poured over. 

POTATOES ORSINI— One part croquette mix- 
ture, one part well cooked rice, one part grated 
tongue, the whole mixed, formed into small 
balls, breaded, fried and served. 

POTATO CASSEROLES— The croquette mix- 
ture shaped liked a small nest, brushed over 
with beaten egg, baked a delicate brown; used 
to receive salpicons. 

POTATO PATTIES— Very small casseroles, 
filled with a salpicon of game or fowl. 

POTATOES CREOLE— Like the patties preced- 
ing, but filled with a Creole garniture; these 
make fine entree garnishes. 

STEWED PARISIENNE POTATOES— Scoop 
out small balls from raw potatoes, put them in- 



to a sautoir wich butter and a seasoning of salt, 
put the lid on and stew gently till done; served 
sprinkled with parsley dust. 

CURRIED POTATOES— Same as the preced- 
ing, adding a spoonful of curry powder while 
stewing. 

POTATO RAGOUT— Same as the stewed Pari- 
sienne, but when nearly done, taken up and 
drained, then placed into a good Espagnole 
sauce, and simmered till done. 

POTATO QUENELLES— The croquette mix- 
ture rolled into very small balls, dipped in 
beaten eggs, then in flour, fried very quickly 
(else they burst) in very hot lard. 

POTATO PUFFS— Cut out with a large column 
cutter the inside of large raw pr tatoes, level 
the ends, then cut into four pieces each column, 
lengthwise. Have two French friers on the 
range half full of lard, one hotter than the 
other; fry the potatoes five minutes in the one, 
then take up, and plunge into the very hot one; 
they will then puff out quickly. 

POTATOES BERNHARDT— Twirled out like 
a curl with a cutter, fried in hot lard, taken up 
and drained, sprinkled with salt and parsley 
dust. 

POTATOES VICTORIA— The croquette mix- 
ture shaped like walnuts, breaded and fried 

GLAZED POTATOES- Very large balls scooped 
out of steamed potatoes, seasoned with salt, 
dipped in beaten eggs, browned quickly in a 
hot oven. 

POTATOES NAVARRAISE— Cut with a scal- 
lop knife very large dice from peeled raw pota- 
toes, steam them till barely done, finish of a 
fine color in boiling oil. 

POTATOES MAITRE D'HOTEL— Raw pota- 
toes peeled, cut in sections like a section of an 
orange, steamed till barely done, then sim- 
mered till done in a thin Veloute sauce contain- 
ing chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a grat- 
ing cf nutmeg. 

POTATOES INDIENNE— Marinade for three 
hours some minced onions and hot green 
chillies in lemon juice, add a little French 
mustard at the finish. Mix all into some light 
dry mashed potatoes, season with salt, use as a 
border to a curry, with, or instead of, boiled 
rice or rissoto 

POTATOES IN CASES— Very thin slices of 
cold boiled potatoes and onions, mixed together 
with a little minced parsley, filled into fancy 
paste cases, with a little butter, sprinkle with 
Parmesan cheese, and bake till browned and 
heated through. 

POTATOES HOLLANDAISE— Cut like sec- 
tions of garlic, steamed; served with maitre 
d'hotel sauce over them. 

POTATOES MARIE-Steamed potatoes, mashed, 
made soft and rich with cream and butter. 



c 44 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



POTATOES GASTRONOME— (i) Raw, cut 
with column cutter, size and shapes of corks, 
steamed barely done, then fried with butter till 
done and of a golden color; served sprinkled 
with salt and parsley dust. (2) Cut same as 
No. 1, parboiled in water containing a little vin- 
egar, drain, then saute with butter till done, 
take up and serve with Perigueux sauce. 

POTATOES MAIRE— Cut with a large column 
cutter tubes of raw potatoes, cut these into 
slices six to the inch, boil till barely done, then 
simmer till done in reduced cream. 

POTATOES MONACO— Slices same as Maire, 
cooked same as Gastronome No. 1. 

POTATOES GENEVOISE— Take small fancy 
patty pans, butter them well, then coat the in- 
side with grated cheese, fill with mashed pota- 
toes, sprinkle with grated cheese, bake half an 
hour in a medium oven. 

POTATOES CONDE— Scoop out balls of raw 
potatoes with a large scoop, steam barely done, 
then fry till done and brown in clarified butter, 
serve sprinkled with salt and parsley dust. 

POTATOES COLBERT— Cold boiled and peeled 
potatoes, cut in large dice, simmered in Colbert 
sauce; when serving, sprinkle with parsley 
dust. 

POTATOES CHATEAU— Olive shapes of pota- 
toes turned out with an oval scoop, blanched, 
drained, fried a light color in clarified butter. 

POTATOES BARIGOULE— Take small round 
new potatoes, steam till barely done, then 
plunge into boiling oil till brown; serve 
sprinkled with salt, pepper and tarragon vine- 
gar. 

POTATOES BRETONNE — Cut cold boiled 
potatoes in squares with a scallop knife, saute 
with a little chopped parsley, then simmer in 
Bretonne sauce. 

POTATOES BRABANT — Cut like for Bre- 
tonne, sauteed with minced shallot and parsley. 

POTATOES BIGNONNE— Scoop balls out of 
raw potatoes with largest sized scoop, take the 
centre out with a column cutter, blanch, drain, 
fill centres with forcemeat, then bake till done 
and brown with butter. 

POTATOES BRABANCONNE— Dry mash some 
steamed peeled potatoes, mix in some minced 
parboiled onions, a little chopped parsley and 
Parmesan cheese, with a little cream sauce, 
bake in paper cases. 

POTATOES ANGLAISE— (1) Scoop balls out 
of raw potatoes with a very large scoop, par- 
boil with a little salt and vinegar in the water, 
take out, drain, then fry till done and brown in 
roast meat drippings. (2) Raw potatoes peeled, 
trimmed, quartered, steamed; served with 
maitre d'hotel sauce over them. 

POTATO SOUP (1)— One pound of mashed 
potatoes rubbed through the tamis, added to 



one gallon of very thin cream sauce, season 
with salt, pepper and nutmeg, finish with a 
sprinkling of chopped chervil; serve with crou- 
tons. 

POTATO SOUP (2)— One pound of mashed 
potatoes rubbed through the tamis, added to 
one gallon of thin creamy soup made from 
white stock, in which has been cooked onion, 
carrot, celery, salt pork and a ham knuckle; 
season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, finish with 
a sprinkling of chopped parsley; serve with 
croutons. 

POTATO SOUP (3)— One pound of mashed 
potatoes rubbed through the tamis (they should 
have been boiled in water that hams have been 
boiled in); use this water in conjunction with 
veal stock, to make a thin creamy soup, then 
add the puree of potatoes, finish with a liaison 
of egg yolks and cream, remove from the fire, 
and pour the soup over a braised Julienne of 
vegetables. 

POTATO SOUP (4)— Three pounds of peeled 
potatoes sliced with a Saratoga cutter, one 
large onion peeled and sliced and one head of 
celery sliced, the whole put into a sautoir with 
a cupful of melted butter, a seasoning of salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, put on the lid, and let 
simmer with an occasional stir till quite done, 
then rub the whole through the tamis; add this 
puree to a gallon of chicken consomme, boil 
up, skim, then add a pint of good cream; serve 
with croutons. 

POTATO SOUP (5)— Prepare the puree as given 
in the preceding (4), add to it the consomme, 
then finish it with asparagus points, and green 
stringless beans cut in diamond shapes. 

POTATO SALADS— (See salads). 

POULETTE— The French name for a hen 
chicken, hence POULETTE SAUCE is made 
from chicken broth, as follows: Half a cup of 
melted butter, flour added to form a roux, 
moistened with one quart of good chicken broth 
(strained), seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
nutmeg, brought to the boil and skimmed; then 
is worked in a liaison of egg yolks and cream, 
finished with a little lemon juice and chopped 
parsley. 

PRAIRIE CHICKEN— Is best cooked in three 
ways, ROASTED, BROILED and in a SAL- 
MIS. To roast it, first pluck, singe, draw and 
wipe clean, truss it with slices of bacon tied 
over the breast, roast it rare; serve with the 
gravy from the roasting strained into a sauce 
Bigarade; serve garnished with watercress. . . 
To broil it, pluck and singe YOUNG birds, 
split down the back, remove the breast bone, 
truss out flat, season with olive oil, salt and 
pepper, place between a wire hinged broiler; 
broil rare done; serve on toast with maitre 
d'hotel sauce poured over, garnish with cress. 
. . . For salmis, simmer the cooked joints in 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



145 



Madeira sauce; serve garnished with mush- 
rooms, stoned olives and fancy croutons. Or 
simmer in Bigarade sauce; serve with sliced 
oranges and fancy croutons. In HUNTER'S 
STYLE is to roast the birds rare, cut in joints, 
then simmer in sauce Chasseur; serve garn- 
ished with fancy croutons. . . Another nice way 
to serve the bird is to take cold roast birds, 
joint them, trim the joints to a wing shape, dip 
in sauce Richelieu, roll in fresh grated bread- 
crumbs, then dip in beaten egg and again roll 
in the breadcrumbs, arrange them in a well 
buttered pan, sprinkle the tops with melted 
butter, place in oven, and let come to a nice 
brown color, with the butter frothing on them; 
serve at once with sauce Richelieu. 

PROVENCALE— Name of a splendid sauce; also 
applied to the Southern French style of cook- 
ing. For the sauce (see sauces). 

PUFFS — Forms of hollow pastry (see fritters). 

PUMPKIN — Name of a large vegetable fruit of 
the melon species, grows on vines, the young 
shoot leaves of which make a most splendid 
substitute for spinach in the summer months. 

BAKED PUMPKIN— Slices of peeled pumpkin 
arranged in buttered pan, seasoned with salt, 
moistened with roast meat gravy, baked and 
basted till done, served as a vegetable. . . Also 
not peeled, but baked plain in slices and served 
like baked potatoes. . . Also slices of peeled 
pumpkin, steamed for ten minutes, then placed 
in buttered pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, baked til* 
done and glazy, then served at once. 

PUMPKIN PUREE— Slices of peeled pumpkin, 
steamed till done, then rubbed through the 
tamis, seasoned with salt and nutmeg, finished 
with a little cream and butter; served as a 
vegetable. 

PUMPKIN PIE— The pumpkin sliced, peeled, 
steamed and rubbed through the tamis, mixed 
with a rich custard, flavored with cinnamon 
and rose water, baked in custard pie pans lined 
with puff paste. 

PRESERVED PUMPKIN RIND— The thick 
cut rind of the pumpkin may be preserved in 
exactly the same way as melon rind(see melon). 

PUREE — Name applied in cookery to vegetables, 
etc., first cooked then rubbed through a fine 
sieve; used as a basis to soups, also as a garn- 
ish to entrees. I will here append the princi- 
pal purees in general use. 

PUREE OF ARTICHOKES— Peel and slice 
Jerusalem artichokes, place them in a sautoir 
with butter and a seasoning of pepper, salt and 
nutmeg, moisten with a little white stock, boil 
till done and the broth reduced, then add some 
cream, reduce and mash till like mashed pota- 
toes, add a pat of butter, then rub through the 
tamis. PUREE OF POTATOES made ex- 



actly the same way, substituting potatoes for 
artichokes. 

PUREE OF CARROTS— Young carrots peeled 
and sliced with a Saratoga cutter, place them 
in a sautoir with butter and a seasoning of salt, 
nutmeg and sugar, place on the lid and let sim- 
mer to a light brown color, then add a little 
good white stock, and simmer down to a glaze, 
rub through the tamis and use as required. 

PUREE OF CELERY- Celery cut up small, 
blanched for five minutes, drained, placed in 
sautoir with butter, season with salt, sugar and 
nutmeg, moisten with a little white stock, and 
simmer till soft; when soft and the stock re- 
duced, add a little Bechamel sauce, rub the 
whole through a tamis and use as required. 

PUREE OF PEAS— Shelled green peas with a 
bunch each of mint and parsley and a few 
spring onions boiled tender, drained, pounded, 
taken up into a sautoir, seasoned with salt and 
a little thick white sauce, then rub through the 
tamis for use. 

PUREE OF CHESTNUTS— Slit large chest- 
nuts and steam them for twenty minutes, then 
remove the husks and brown skin, put the 
cleaned nuts in a sautoir and moisten with a 
little consomme and simmer till soft and the 
consomme reduced to glaze, then pound them; 
season with salt, nutmeg and sugar, add a lit- 
tle cream sauce, then rub through the tamis 
for use. 

PUREE OF SPINACH— Wash the spinach free 
from sand, blanch it, then take up and let it 
drain well, now chop it very fine, then pound 
it; place in a sautoir, season with salt, sugar 
and nutmeg, add a little white sauce, reduce 
rapidly to preserve its color, add a little butter 
and a piece of glaze, then rub through the 
tamis for use. 

PUREE OF ASPARAGUS— Take the green parts 
of asparagus, wash free from sand, place in a 
sautoir with some spring onions and a bunch of 
parsley, boil in salted water till asparagus is 
tender, then drain all, return to another sautoir, 
season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, add a little 
butter and some white sauce, also some white 
grated breadcrumbs, reduce rapidly, finish with 
a little green coloring paste and a small piece 
of glaze, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF TOMATOES— Into a sautoir put 
some butter, lean raw ham, minced shallots, a 
few whole peppers, mace and cloves, two or 
three bay leaves and a few sprigs of thyme, 
fry together to a golden color, then add either 
fresh or canned tomatoes with a little Veloute 
sauce, reduce rapidly till thick, add a seasoning 
of salt and sugar, with a piece of glaze and a 
pat of butter, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF ONIONS— Sliced onions blanched 
for five minutes then drained, placed in a sautoir 



146 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



with butter, seasoned with salt, sugar and nut- 
meg, moistened with a very little white stock, 
simmered till soft and the broth reduced to 
glaze, then add some thick white sauce, reduce 
rapidly, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF SEAKALE— Seakale cut small and 
blanched, then drained, placed in a sautoirwith 
butter and a little white stock, season with salt, 
sugar and nutmeg. Simmer till soft, then add 
some thick white sauce, reduce rapidly till 
thick, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF MUSHROOMS— Canned button 
mushrooms drained, chopped fine, placed in a 
sautoir with butter and allowed to fry to a light 
straw color, then is added the juice of a lemon, 
and a good cream sauce made with cream and 
the liquor from the canned mushrooms; sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, reduce 
rapidly, then rub through the tamis for use. 

PUREE OF LIMA BEANS— Fresh green lima 
beans boiled for a few minutes with some 
spring onions and a bunch of parsley, also a few 
sprigs of chives, drained, placed in a sautoir 
with butter and a small bunch of savory, sea- 
soned with salt, sugar and a little white sauce, 
simmered till very tender, then add a piece of 
glaze and a little green coloring paste, rub 
through the tamis for use. 

QUAIL — Pluck and singe the quail, split down 
the back, remove the breast bone, season with 
salt, brush with butter, broil done to a golden 
brown; spread the trail on buttered toast, pop 
it in the oven a few minutes during the broil- 
ing, place the bird on the toast, brush over with 
butter, garnish with a little cress and send to 
table. 

ROAST QUAIL — Pluck and singe the bird, 
draw it, return the liver, truss; run half a 
dozen on a long steel skewer; place acrcss a 
baking pan, letting the ends of the skewer rest 
on the edge of the pan; sprinkle with salt, 
dredge with melted butter, roast; serve on toast 
garnished with a little cress. Sauce Perigueux, 
or a Financiere garnish mav be served with it, 
but is far from being essential. 

QUAHAUG— or quahog. One of the clam species, 
the tender part only should be used; in every 
way of cooking applicable to oysters and clams' 

QUINCE HONEY— Five large quinces grated, 
one pint of water, five pounds of granulated 
sugar, boil the sugar and water, add the grated 
quinces, boil fifteen minutes, pour into glasses, 
allow to cool before covering. 

QUINCE JELLY— Wipe, but do not peel the 
fruit; slice it, and remove all seeds. Put them 
in a porcelain lined kettie and barely cover 
with cold water, put en the lid, and boil slowly 
till very tender, then pour all into a flannel jelly 
bag and let drain without squeezing. To esch 
pint of juice allow one pound of sugar, put the 



juice into the kettle, bring to the boil, add the 
sugar, stir till it is dissolved, then boil rapidly, 
(skimming the while) till it jellies (about twenty 
five minutes), then roll the jelly glasses in boil- 
ing water, and pour in the boiling jelly. Stand 
aside for twenty-four hours until set firm, then 
screw on the lids. Keep in a cool dark place 

QUINCE MARMALADE— Peel, core and slice 
the fruit, boil with just enough water to cover 
them, stirring and mashing them till soft; when 
reduced to a paste, allow eleven ounces of 
granulated sugar to each pound of fruit, boil 
twelve minutes, stirring constantly; remove 
from fire, allow to cool, then fill into jars for use. 

STEWED RABBIT, GERMAN STYLE— Young 
rabbits cut in six pieces, the two legs, breasts 
and shoulders, and the back cut in halves; 
wash well, drain, then steep them for a few 
hours in vinegar containing thyme, carrots and 
onions sliced; when ready, take the oieces, roll 
them in flour and fry lightly in butter, put 
them in a sautoir when fried; now fry some 
pieces of salt pork in the remaining butter, add 
them to the rabbit, with some flour, shake to- 
gether, moisten with stock, simmer and skim; 
then add some button onions, a little thyme 
and enough of the vinegar they were steeped in 
to give a sharp flavor, simmer till tender and 
serve. 

FRICASSEE OF RABBIT— Legs, backs and 
shoulders of young rabbits, washed and wiped 
dry, then lightly fry with butter till the flesh 
is firm; take up into a sautoir, add some 
flour, moisten with white stock, simmer and 
skim; when about half done, add some button 
onions and mushrooms, also a glass of white 
wine; when about finished, thicken the sauce 
with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, season 
v. ith nutmeg, salt, red pepper and the juice of 
a lemon. 

POTTED RABBIT— Legs, shoulders and backs 
of young rabbits, remove the bones from each 
joint, then place the pieces in individual jars 
(like bean jars) with diced bacon and mush- 
rooms. Take the bones and head, pound them, 
boil them with carrot, celery, onions and a lit- 
tle thyme, thicken it slightly, strain, and cover 
the meat in the jars with it, put on the lids, 
and bake slowly till tender; serve in the jars. 

BRAISED RABBIT WITH TOMATO SAUCE 
— Legs and backs of young rabbits, lard them 
with seasoned strips of bacon, place in a bras- 
iere with bacon, onions, carrots and a bunch of 
thyme, moisten with white stock and a glass of 
white wine, braise till tender and then remove 
to another sautoir; strain the braise, boil up, 
skim, then add it to a thick tomato sauce; 
serve it over the rabbit, garnished with fancy 
croutons. 

BROILED SADDLE OF RABBIT— Take the 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



M7 



whole of the back of the rabbit, soak it in warm 
salted water for an hour, then take it up and 
wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
melted butter, dredge with flour, place between 
a wire hinged broiler and broil it well done 
over a clear fire, basting with butter during 
cooking; serve on toast with maitre d'hotel 
butter in which has been incorporated a little 
red currant jelly. 
SAUTE OF RABBIT— Take the legs and sad- 
dles of the rabbits, soak in warm salted water 
for an hour, then drain and wipe each piece 
dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, 
fry a golden color with butter, make the sauce 
in the same pan, boil up and skim, put back 
the rabbit, add some sliced mushrooms, sim- 
mer till tender, finish with the addition cf a 
little sherry wine. 
SMOTHERED RABBIT WITH ONIONS— 
Take the legs and saddles, blanch and drain 
them, then arrange them in a sautoir, cover 
with a light brown sauce and let simmer for 
half an hour; meanwhile fry lightly plenty of 
onions (the small button ones), add them to the 
rabbit, simmer till tender; serve garnished with 
the onions and a fancy crouton. 
RABBIT PIE— Take the legs and saddles, cut 
into inch pieces, make them into a saute; take 
the hearts, livers and brains, and with the ad- 
dition of a little grated bacon, breadcrumbs, 
chopped parsley and a flavoring of thyme make 
forcemeat balls; lay the rabbit in the pie dish, 
add the forcemeat balls and some diced bacon, 
pour over the sauce, cover with a good short 
crust and bake for one hour. May also be done 
in individual pie dishes for restaurant and club 
service, where it is a gocd seller. 
RABBIT CUTLETS, TOMATO SAUCE— Take 
the legs, roll them first in a mixture of salt, 
pepper and poultry seasoning, then in flour, 
dip in beaten eggs, then grated breadcrumbs, 
place in a buttered baking pan, sprinkle with 
melted butter, bake slowly for half an hour; 
serve with tomato sauce. 

EPIGRAMME OF RABBIT— Take the legs and 
lard them with seasoned strips of bacon, fry 
one half of them slowly till tender, and braise 
the other half; when serving, place a line of 
mashed potatoes down the centre of the dish; 
on one side place a braised leg dipped in a 
brown Italian sauce, on the other side place 
the fried leg dipped in a white Italian sauce, 
garnish the ends with fancy shaped quenelles 
made of the hearts, liver and brains. 

DEVILLED RABBIT— Take the legs and sad- 
dles, boil them for fifteen minutes, let cool, 
then score them slantwise in three or four 
places to the bone; make a mixture of melted 
butter, cayenne, Worcestershire sauce, mus- 
tard and tarragon vinegar, thoroughly rub into 



the cuts with the mixture, then slowly broil 
them of a light color; serve garnished with 
croutons and a little of the devil mixture made 
hot and poured over. 
BLANQUETTE OF RABBIT— Legs and sad- 
dles of rabbits blanched, then lightly fried with 
butter, taken up into a sautoir, covered with 
Veloute sauce, simmered till tender; served 
garnished with button mushrooms that have 
been sauteed with butter. 
FRIED RABBIT CUTLETS— Legs of young 
rabbits, bones removed and their place filled 
with forcemeat, steam them for ten minutes, 
then take up and spread a little of the force- 
meat on the outside, then bread them; arrange 
in a buttered pan, sprinkle with melted butter, 
brown off in the oven; serve with a sauce made 
from the inferior parts. 
STEWED RABBIT WITH VEGETABLES— 
Prepare the blanquette of rabbit of a preced- 
ing recipe; serve garnished with balls of carrot 
and turnip, green peas and small onions. 
BROILED RABBIT— Young rabbits, the legs 
and saddle cut in one piece, like frogs are cut, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, broiled well 
done; served with bacon and maitre d'hotel 
sauce. 
RAGOUT OF RABBIT— Legs, saddles and 
shoulders of rabbits, cut into even sized pieces, 
seasoned with salt and pepper and sauteed with 
butter to a golden color, then add some chopped 
truffle, mushrooms, parsley and shallot, sim- 
mer all in the butter for ten minutes, then 
pour off the waste, moisten with some good 
espagnole, boil up and skim, then add a piece 
of chicken glace, juice of a lemon, and a grat- 
ing of nutmeg, let simmer till nearly done, 
then add some forcemeat balls prepared froru 
the inferior parts; serve garnished with the 
quenelles and fancy croutons. 
RABBIT FILLETS GARNISHED, SAUCK 
PERIGUEUX — Legs and saddles of young 
rabbits seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
sauteed with butter to a golden color, taken up 
and drained, placed into a rich Perigueux 
sauce, simmered in it till done; served with the 
sauce poured over and garnished with small 
quenelles of rabbits made from the inferior 
parts, alternately with button mushroom sau- 
tees. 
SALPICON OF RABBIT— Take the whole rab- 
bit and roast it of a light color, well basting it 
to keep it moist; take up and allow to cool, 
then cut in small dice, the meat only, add also 
a few mushrooms, and truffles, a little tongue 
and sweetbread all cut in small dice, moisten 
the whole with a rich Veloute sauce; serve in 
fancy croustade cases. 
MINCED RABBIT ON TOAST— Cold cooked 
rabbit, the meat cut into very small dice, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



moistened with a brown Italian sauce; served 
on toast with or without a trimmed poached 
egg- 
CURRIED RABBIT WITH RICE— Legs, sad- 
dles and shoulders of rabbits lightly fried with 
minced onions in butter, then taken up into a 
sautoir, sprinkled with curry powder and flour, 
moistened with white stock, simmered till 
done; served with rice. 

RASPBERRIES— A delicious fruit used chiefly 
as a table fruit, being picked over, then served 
with cream. Made into puddings, charlottes, 
ices, creams, meringues, tarts, jellies, trifles, 
etc., by the pastry cooks; into syrup for flavor- 
ing; also used as a drink in summer for cooling 
the blood known as RASPBERRY VINEGAR; 
made by taking equal measurement of rasp- 
berries and vinegar, and steeping them for a 
week, then straining off the liquor, allowing a 
pound of granulated sugar to each pint of juice; 
it is boiled, skimmed and bottled for use. 

RAVIOLES — Are essentially poached rissoles or 
rissolettes; they are made up from any kind of 
croquette mixture, rolled up the sizeand shape 
of an egg, then slightly flattened, and laid on a 
small square piece of NOODLE or SHORT 
paste, the four ends brought over the top to a 
centre and slightly pressed together; they are 
then poached in white stock for six or seven 
minutes, drained, placed on the serving dish; 
an appropriate sauce to the croquette mixture 
is poured over them, then sprinkled with grated 
Parmesan cheese. 

RAVIGOTE — Name given to a sauce, made with 
plenty of melted butter, flour to form a roux, 
moistened with good white stock, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, and containing plenty 
of chopped chives, chervil, tarragon, burnet 
and parsley. . . Also a cold sauce, which is 
mayonnaise containing finely minced chives, 
shallot, tarragon, parsley and chervil. 

REDSNAPPER, BOILED— Clean and scale the 
fish, place in the fish kettle, cover it with hot 
water, adding salt and a little vinegar, sim- 
mer till done (from half to one hour according 
to size), then raise and drain; serve in portions 
garnished with Hollandaise potatoes and either 
caper, matelote, Allemande, Admiral, diplo- 
mate or Venitienne sauces. 

REDSNAPPER, BAKED— Clean and scale the 
fish, split it down the back and lift off the two 
sides free from bones; lay these skin side down 
in a buttered pan, season with salt and pepper, 
place in oven till set, then brush liberally with 
melted butter; bake done and brown, basting 
well with butter during the cooking; serve in 
portions with a quarter of a lemon, and a rich 
tomato sauce made with court-bouillon. 

REDSNAPPER, SAUTE— Prepare the fillets as 
in the preceding recipe, then cut them in por- 



tion pieces, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
flour, saute them a delicate brown color with 
plenty of melted butter; when done, take up 
and drain, sprinkle the surface with finely 
minced parsley; serve with Parisienne potatoes 
and either lobster, Genoise, Aurora, Cardinal, 
Chambord, or Normande sauces. 
REDSNAPPER, BROILED— Clean and scale 
the fish, split down the back and remove the 
sides free from bones, season with salt and 
pepper, brush with melted butter, pass it 
through flour, place between the wire hinged 
broiler, broil till done, well basting with butter 
during cooking; serve garnished with chip or 
Julienne potatoes, and either Maitre D'Hotel, 
Genoise, Bearnaise, Eschalote, or Nantaise 
sauces. 
REDSNAPPER, STUFFED— Clean, trim and 
scale the fish; cut from the belly part deep 
enough at sides of bone so as to withdraw it 
without cutting the skin of the back; stuff with 
a fish forcemeat, then sew the opening, score 
the sides, bake with slices of salt pork; serve 
in portions garnished with Duchesse potatoes 
and tomato sauce. 
RHUBARB COMPOTE— Young rhubarb cut in 
finger lengths, placed in enameled pan covered 
with cold water, slowly brought to the scalding 
(not boiling) point, then drain. Measure the 
scalded water, and add to it a pound of sugar 
to each pint, boil together till of a thin syrupy 
nature, then pour over the rhubarb. 
RHUBARB PIE— Line the sides of pie dish with 
short paste, cut the rhubarb into half inch 
thick pieces, sprinkle well with sugar, a little 
grated nutmeg and lemon rind, just a little 
water, cover with short paste, egg wash the 
top, bake and serve. 
RHUBARB WITH CUSTARD- Cut the rhu- 
barb into finger lengths, place it in an enam- 
eled pan, adding sugar and a few strips of 
candied lemon peel, a little water, place the pan 
in a slow oven and let simmer till done without 
breaking the fruit; serve with a spoonful to 
each portion of thin boiled custard, flavored 
with vanilla. 
RHUBARB ] AM— Wash the young rhubarb and 
cut into pieces about an inch long, do not peel 
it, weigh, and to each pound allow three-quart- 
ers of a pound of granulated sugar, boil in a 
porcelain lined kettle, bringing slowly to the 
boil, then boil and stir continually for forty-five 
minutes, fill into Mason jars, screwing the lids 
on tight. 
RHUBARB JELLY— Wash the young rhubarb 
and cut it into inch lengths, put the cut fruit 
into a stone crock, put on the lid, stand it in 
the bain marie, and heat slowly till the fruit is 
soft; now put a small quantity at a time into 
your jelly bag, and squeeze out all the juice. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



149 



Measure the juice, and to each pint allow one 
pound of granulated sugar. Turn the juice in- 
to a porcelain lined kettle, and stand over a 
brisk fire. Put the sugar into earthern dishes 
and stand in the oven to heat. Boil the juice 
rapidly and continuously for twenty minutes, 
then turn in the sugar quickly, stirring all the 
while till the sugar is dissolved. Dip jelly 
tumblers into hot water, watch the liquid care- 
fully, and as soon as it comes to the boil, take 
it from the fire and fill the glasses. 
RHUBARB FRITTERS— Take pieces of the 
rhubarb from the compote of a preceding 
recipe, dip in frying batter, fry in deep, hot 
lavrd, drain, dust powdered sugar over; serve 
with rum sauce. 
RHUBARB MERINGUE— Wash young rhu- 
barb, then cut it into inch lengths; fill a pie 
dish with the rhubarb, sugared alternately with 
slices of stale sponge cake; bake in a moderate 
oven about half an hour, then cover with a 
meringue sprinkled with colored sugar; return 
to oven and bake till of a light fawn color. 

RICE — To boil it properly so as to have it in 
grains when cooked instead of pasty: Take a 
large saucepan containing plenty of boiling 
water with a little salt, then sprinkle in the 
rice, let it boil up, then shift it to a cooler part 
of the range where it will just simmer, do not 
stir it, but let it swell itself tender, then turn it 
into a colander, place the colander in the 
saucepan, take it to the sink and thoroughly 
wash it clear with running cold water, then 
allow to drain dry, then put the drained rice 
into a receptacle of the bain marie, put on the 
cover, and let the boiling water surrounding it 
reheat the rice. . . Rice cooked as above is 
good to serve with curries, compotes, as a 
breakfast cereal with cream and sugar, etc. . . 
Also mixed with a little butter, plenty of 
tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese it forms 
Rissoto . . . added to consommes it does not 
cloud the soup . . . mixed with wheat flour, 
baking powder, sugar and milk for making rice 
muffins. 

RICE CROQUETTES— Well washed rice boiled 
till soft in milk with a seasoning of sugar, a 
stick of cinnamon, and the peel of a lemon; 
when done remove the lemon and spice, add a 
piece of butter, then work in a liaison of egg 
yolks; turn out into a buttered pan, allow to 
become cold, then form into cakes with a de- 
pressed centre, bread and fry them, drain, 
sprinkle with powdered sugar; when sending to 
table fill the depression with preserve, and 
pour a vanilla or wine sauce around the base. 

CROUSTADES OF RICE— Well washed rice 
boiled till soft in white stock; when done, 
season with salt, butter and nutmeg, then whip 
it creamy, adding some Parmesan cheese. Now 



turn it out into a buttered pan, smooth it well, 
place a sheet of buttered paper over it, on that 
a board with a weight; when thoroughly cold, 
stamp out with a biscuit cutter, double bread, 
then fry them, drain, scoop out the centres and 
use the shell for the reception of salpicons, 
roacedoines of fruit or vegetables, etc. 

RICHILIEU — Name of a garnish (see garnishes). 

RISSOLES — Another form of savory croquette; 
but instead of being breaded and fried, the 
croquette mixture is divided into even sized 
pieces, and laid on a sheet of pie paste, cov- 
ered with another sheet(thin),then stamped out 
with a fluted biscuit cutter, then fried like cro- 
quettes in deep hot lard. 

RISSOLETTES — Same as rissoles, but made 
much smaller and used for garnishing. 

ROE — The eggs of fish, those chiefly used being 
taken from the shad, codfish, carp and mullet. 
Recipes will be found under their respective 
headings. 

ROLY POLY — Name applied to puddings made 
from a sweet biscuit dough, rolled out thin, 
then spread with chopped fruit, currants, sul- 
tanas, etc., then rolled up, tied in a cloth, 
plunged into boiling water, and boiled; or else 
placed in a cake or bread tin and steamed till 
done; served in slices with sauce appropriate. 

ROMAN PUNCH— To lemon water ice when 
nearly frozen is added Jamaica rum, brandy, 
and sherry wine in equal parts, and enough 
meringue to whiten it, then finish the freezing; 
served in punch glasses with the dinner. 

ROQUEFORT — Name of a French cheese (see 
cheese). 

ROULADE — Name given to savory rolls of steak. 
Take thin steaks, spread with a forcemeat, roll 
up, tie the ends with twine, arrange them in a 
sautoir with some bacon fat, brown them, then 
add a little flour, moisten with stock, then let 
them simmer in the gravy till tender, take up, 
serve with the twine removed, and garnished 
with vegetables, mushrooms, etc. 

ROUX — The name given to an equal mixture of 
butter and flour, used to thicken sauces and 
soups. Take the sautoir, place in the butter; 
when melted, add the flour and stir till thor- 
oughly smooth and heated, then moisten with 
the stock, milk, etc. . . If for a brown sauce or 
soup, allow the roux to brown before moistening. 

ROYAL CUSTARDS— Name applied to a com- 
bination of eggs and a liquid either plain or in 
conjunction with a solid; used to decorate 
soups, and also with garnishes; also for garn- 
ishing galantines, etc. Yolks and whites of 
eggs separated, stirred to amalgamate (must 
not be beaten light) with a little milk or stock, 
then poured into a buttered basin or tin, cov- 
ered with a sheet of oiled paper, and placed in 



150 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



the steamer where they must be gradually decorated with capers; garnished with aspara- 
steamed till set; they are then removed and gus points dipped in French dressing. 
allowed to become cold; they may then be cut BEAN SALAD— Take the French beans, bought 



in slices and afterwards into all sorts of fancy 
shapes for the purpose required. Into the eggs 
may also be mixed a rnacecoine of vegetables, 
chopped truffles, chopped mushrooms, force- 
meat, lobster coral, green peas, chopped chervil, 
parsley, chives, tarragon, etc.; and when re- 
quired for garnishing whole pieces they, after 



in cans and called "Haricots Verts". Wash 
and drain them, then moisten with French 
dressing and send to table in one of the num- 
erous shaped croustade cases, placed on a leaf 
of lettuce. . . (?.) Fresh green lima beans boiled 
tender, drained, mixed with cream dressing; 
served garnished with cress. 



being mixed with whatever solid is used, should BEETROOT AND POTATO SALAD— Cut out 

of cold boiled beetroots small balls; the same 
size balls also to be cut out of raw peeled pota- 
toes; then steamed till done; when cooled, place 
the potatoes in a Ravigote sauce, the beet balls 
in tarragon vinegar; dish them up alternately. 
BEET AND EGG SALAD— Large beetroots 
boiled and cooled, then with the largest sized 
column cutter stamp out cork like pieces; these 
slice, also do the same with steamed whites and 
yolks of eggs. Place some grated horseradish 
down the centre of the dish, on it place alter- 
nately a small white pickled onion and a caper; 
surround the horseradish with the yellow 
slices, and those with the alternate slices of beet 
and white egg; serve with cream dressing aside. 
CABBAGE SALAD — Cut some bacon into dice, 
fry; when done, add a cup of vinegar, a cup of 
water, season with salt and pepper, bring all 
to the boil, pour over very finely shred cab- 
bage, set away to get cold, then serve ... (2) 
Finely shred white cabbage, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and a little sugar . . . 
(3 1 Take a firm green and a firm red cabbage, 
quarter them, soak in salted water for an hour, 
then steam them till tender, take out and cool; 
when cold, shred them very finely, arrange 
them on the -serving dish alternately, two rows 
of each, placing between each centre row some 
salad cream dressing containing chopped cher- 
vil and shallots. 
CAULIFLOWER SALAD— (1) Cooked cauli- 
flower in flowerets in centre of dish, masked 
with mayonnaise, garnished with a macedoine 
of cooked vegetables dressed with French 
dressing . . . (z) Flowerets of cooked cauli- 
flower in centre of dish masked with a sauce 
Remculade; garnished with fancy cut strips of 
cooked and piclird beetroot. 
CELERY SALAD -(1) Cut the white celery in 
two inch lengths like matches or macaroni; 
serve dressed with mayonnaise ... (2) White 
celery cut in dice, mixed with Livournaise 
sauce; served garnished with slices of stuffed 
olives. 



be filled into small timbale molds so that they 

can be turned out and used whole. 
RYE — Name of a cereal, used in distilling for 

whisky, ground into flour for making rye bread, 

muffins, batter cakes, mush, etc. 
SALADS. 
ALLIGATOR PEAR— It is either eaten raw with 

salt and pepper; or sliced and dressed with 

French dressing; served on a bed of shredded 

endive. 

ANCHOVY SALAD— (1) Shredded fillets of 
salted anchovies, garnished with small white 
pickled onions, capers, and sliced hard boiled 
eggs; sprinkle a little tarragon vinegar over the 
anchovies . . .(2) Shredded lettuce andshredded 
anchovies, a few minced shallots, all mixed to- 
gether dry; then moistened with equal quanti- 
ties of olive oil and caper vinegar thoroughly 
beaten together. 

ARTICHOKE SALAD- (1) Artichoke bottoms 
and medium sized onions both cooked and 
cooled, then sliced and dished alternately; 
garnished with small balls of cooked beetroot 
and carrots; served sprinkled with either 
French or a cream dressing ... (2) Cooked arti- 
choke bottoms, skinned raw tomatoes; slice 
both and arrange alternately on the serving 
dish, sprinkle with finely chopped chervil, then 
with a French dressing ... (3) Hearts of lettuce 
finely shred; artichoke bottoms cooked and 
cooled, then shred; mixed, then moistened with 
French dressing and served. 

ASPARAGUS SALAD— (1) Two inch lengths of 
cooked asparagus with the head; served on let- 
tuce leaves, the points piped with cream dress- 
ing or mayonnaise . . . ^2) Cooked asparagus 
heads; raw, skinned, sliced tomatces. Place 
the asparagus in the centre of the dish, garnish 
with the tomatoes; serve with mayonnaise . . . 
(3) Flowerets of cooked cauliflower in centre of 
dish masked with cream dressing; garnished 
with asparagus points moistened with French 
dressing, decorate with capers ... (4) Flakes of 



cooked salmon dipped in a thin Ravigote sauce, 

placed overlapping each other down centre of CHICORY SALAD— Sb red chicory (endive), twr 

the dish; garnished with asparagus points, the parts, shred celery, one part, mixed, dressed 

tips of which should be piped with mayonnaise. and served with French dressing. 

... (5) Canned salmon drained; a spoonful in CODFISH SALAD — Salt cod well soaked and 

centre of dish masked with a mayonnaise and boiled in two separate waters. cojW, ^ake* 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



I5i 



taken free from bones; cold boiled potatoes 
sliced and mixed with the cod; seasoned with 
cream dressing, the salad then placed down the 
centre of dish; garnish the sides with finely 
shred lettuce seasoned with French dressing, 
the top of the salad to be garnished with 
shredded and filleted salted anchovies. 
CHICKEN SALAD— (1) Make round chicken 
croquettes of white chicken, tongue, mush- 
rooms and truffles; bread, fry, let become cold, 
cut in halves and set around a bed of fine shred 
iettuce and endive ... (2) Equal parts of 
chicken and white celery cut in dice, seasoned 
with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, dressed with 
tliced eggs and mayonnaise ... (3) Take two 
parts of mayonnaise and one part of cold limpid 
aspic jelly and beat them together; decorate 
and line individual patty pans with the beaten 
mixture, allow them to set, then fill up with 
slices of chicken dressed with Remoulade 
sauce, a few capers and slices of stoned olives, 
cover with more of the beaten mixture, let set 
till firm, turn out on to a bed of shredded let- 
tuce, garnish with shredded anchovies and 
shredded gherkins. 
CHICKEN, MAYONNAISE OF — Cold roast 
chickens, cut into joints, marinaded in a mix- 
ture of olive oil, tarragon vinegar, salt and 
pepper; taken up, drained, skinned, dipped in 
a mayonnaise; when well coated, lain on a bed 
of shredded lettuce, garnish with quartered 
eggs, balls of pickled beetroot and stoned, 
stuffed olives. . . (2) Boned and roasted chicken, 
pressed, sliced, coated with mayonnaise; served 
garnished with green peas and asparagus 
points sprinkled with French dressing, and 
cubes of savory chicken aspic. 
CRAB SALAD— Fresh crab meat, to which is 
added one-fourth of its bulk in minced cold 
boiled cabbage; season with dry mustard, a 
dash of Worcestershire sauce and cream salad 
dressing. Fill the crab shells with the salad, 
place the shell on a curved lettuce leaf; decor- 
ate the salad in the shell with two rows of egg, 
chopped whites and yolks alternately. . . (2) 
Fresh crab meat cut in small dice, dressed with 
tarragon vinegar, salt, olive oil and cayenne 
pepper; served within a border of shredded 
lettuce; garnish with slices of stuffed olives and 
hard boiled eggs. . . (3) Make from fresh crab 
meat, some forcemeat balls the size of walnuts; 
when poached and cooled, coat them with a 
Remoulade sauce; serve them within a border 
of cold slaw, garnish with quartered hard boiled 
eggs and fancy strips of pickled beetroot. 

CUCUMBER SALAD— Cucumbers peeled, sliced 
thin, steeped in salted ice water for two or 
three hours, taken up into a salad basket and 
swung dry; then place in a bowl and anoint 
them with French dressing containing chopped 



tarragon and parsley. . . (2) Peeled cucumbers 
thinly sliced and steeped in salted ice water for 
an hour, then taken up into a salad basket and 
swung dry; then anoint them with a spray of 
tarragon vinegar, place in centre of dish, and 
garnish them with a few spring onions sliced 
and moistened with cream salad dressing. . . (3) 
Peeled cucumbers thinly sliced, steeped in 
salted ice water for an hour, taken up into a 
salad basket and swung dry; then anoint 
them with salt, pepper and a spray of caper 
vinegar; dish them up alternately with slices 01 
hard boiled eggs and pickled beetroot. 

DANDELION SALAD— Fresh gathered young 
dandelion leaves (gathered before the sun 
shines on them in the morning too strongly), 
wiped clean WITHOUT BEING WASHED, 
seasoned with French dressing; served gar- 
nished with fancy slices of pickled beetroot. 

CRESS SALAD — Arrange well washed, picked 
over and drained watercress on the serving 
dish, garnish with sliced eggs and filleted 
anchovies. 

EGG SALAD — Hard boiled eggs, the yolks 
rubbed through a sieve, mixed with their equal 
weight of grated Parmesan cheese, seasoned 
with chopped chervil, salt, pepper and enough 
melted butter to moisten; fill the whites with 
the mixture, and lay them on a bed of shredded 
lettuce; garnish with peeled and sliced toma- 
toes, piped with Remoulade sauce. 

EEL SALAD — Raw eels skinned and marinaded, 
then boiled and the bone removed; when cold, 
masked with mayonnaise, arranged in centre 
of dish garnished with sliced eggs and tufts of 
parsley. 

EGG PLANT SALAD— Cold well boiled egg 
plant, cut in small dice and well seasoned with 
lemon juice and olive oil; served on a curled 
leaf of lettuce. 

ENDIVE SALAD— Shred the leaves and cores of 
well washed endive, and serve it with French 
dressing made with tarragon vinegar, contain- 
ing a suspicion of garlic. 

FRENCH SALAD-Cold roast meat (veal for 
preference), cut in small dice, mixed with 
shredded lettuce and endive, seasoned with 
French dressing, garnished with chopped 
whites of hard boiled egg. 

GARDENER'S SALAD— Fine strips of vege- 
tables of various colors cooked and cooled, with 
green peas and cut stringless beans, all mixed 
together and dressed with salt, pepper, olive 
oil and vinegar, or with a thin mayonnaise. 

GERMAN SALAD— Pickled red cabbage, 
blanched sauerkraut, small pickled onions, 
grated horseradish, chopped shallots, gherkins, 
dill pickles and capers with sliced cold frank- 
furters, all mixed together, seasoned with 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 
salad oil, pepper and tarragon 



152 

Rhine wine, 
vinegar. 

GERMAN POTATO SALAD— Sliced cold boiled 
potatoes, minced parsley, fried diced bacon 
(with its fat thrown over the potatoes), pepper, 
salt, the whole well mixed with cream salad 
dressing. 

GAME SALAD — Any kind of cold roast game 
skinned and cut into dice, mixed with shredded 
lettuce, shredded cooked carrots and a few raw 
minced shallots, season the whole with Tartare 
sauce; serve garnished with slices of pickled 
beetrcot, chopped eggs and small balls of but- 
ter and pounded watercress. . . (2) Cold roast 
game skinned and sliced, moistened with French 
dressing and allowed to marinade for three 
hours, arrange then on the serving platter, 
garnished with shredded lettuce, the whole 
then sprinkled over with chopped whites of egg 
and the yolks that have been rubbed through a 
sieve. 

HERRING SALAD— Shredded boneless salted 
herrings and sardelles, mixed with thin sliced 
cold boiled potatoes, sliced dill pickles and 
gherkins, capers, chopped chives and shredded 
lettuce; placed on the serving platter and 
masked with a thin mayonnaise; garnish with 
filleted anchovies and slices or strips of pickled 
bestroot. . . (2) Blanched smoked herring, 
skinned, split, boned, cut up small, mixed with 
chopped eggs, minced onion, thin sliced cold 
boiled potatoes and chopped parsley, seasoned 
with French dressing, garnished with pickled 
beetrcot and capers. 

ITALIAN SALAD— Diced fowl mixed in cream 
salad dressing; served within a border of picked 
watercress and hearts of lettuce; garnish with 
slices of eggs, yolks removed, its place filled 
with a slice of beetroot. 

ITALIAN SALAD — Cooked green peas two- 
fifths, small diced cooked carrot one-fifth, 
diced cooked white turnip one- fifth, small cut 
cooked stringless beans one-fifth, all mixed to- 
gether. Then into a French dressing mix some 
chopped chervil, tarragon and chives; moisten 
the vegetables with this mixture, and serve 
garnished with slices of cold boiled potatoes 
and pickled beetroot. 

KALE SALAD — The small inside leaves of kale 
four-fifths, picked and washed watercress one- 
fifth, mixed and served with French dressing. 

LETTUCE SALAD— Broad shred lettuce leaves, 
sprinkled with salt and pepper, then sprayed with 
mixed olive oil and tarragon vinegar. . . (2) Well 
washed and drained lettuce leaves finely shred 
aDd served with French dressing. . . (3) Broad 
shred lettuce leaves and finely shred spring 
onions, sprinkled with salt and pepper, then 
sprayed with mixed olive oil and tarragon vin- 
egar. . . (4) Finely shred lettuce seasoned with 



French dressing and garnished with peeled d 
sliced tomatoes, piped with a Remoulade sauce. 
... (5) Shred lettuce tossed with Remoulade 
sauce and minced capers; served garnished with 
peeled and sliced tomatoes sprayed with French 
dressing. 

LIMA BEAN SALAD— Fresh green lima beans 
boiled, drained, cooled, moistened with a cream 
salad dressing; served garnished with water- 
cress sprayed with caper vinegar. 

LOBSTER SALAD— Two parts of diced lobster 
meat to one part of fine cut celery, seasoned 
with salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar, placed on 
platter and masked with mayonnaise; garnished 
with slices of hard boiled eggs and shredded 
lettuce. . . (2) Equal parts of diced lobster 
meat and diced cold boiled potatoes, mixed 
with cream salad dressing; served with cubes 
of steamed whites and yolks of eggs alternately 
as a garnish. . . (3) Slices of lobster meat 
dipped in Montpelier butter arranged down the 
centre of platter; served garnished with alter- 
nate tufts of watercress; sliced egg with yolk re- 
moved and its place filled with lobster coral; 
sliced cucumber, and small rings of onion, the 
interior of the ring filled with caviare. . . (4) 
Shredded lettuce and lobster meat, seasoned 
with oil, salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar, 
placed on platter and masked with mayonnaise, 
decorated with capers, sliced stuffed olives, 
lobster coral, quartered eggs, and watercress 
(also the small claws). 

MACEDOINE SALAD— Out of slices of cooked 
c«rrot, white and yellow turnip, and bottoms 
of artichokes, stamp fancy shapes, add to them 
cooked green peas and asparagus tips, also 
finely cut stringless beans, mix all together; 
serve on lettuce leaves, with French dressing 
and a few capers. 

OYSTER SALAD— Oysters scalded and washed, 
cooled, served on lettuce leaf with Tartar sauce. 
... (2) Equal quantities of white celery and 
cabbage minced together and blanched, then 
cooled; oysters scalded with their own liquor, to 
which is added a little vinegar and salt, then 
drained and cooled; season the celery and cab- 
bage with a little oil and white vinegar, place 
it in centre of dish, dip the oysters in mayon- 
naise and surround the centre. 

ONION SALAD— Take either the Bermuda or 
Spanish onion, peel them, slice in rings one- 
quarter inch thick, steam them till half done, 
then let them become very cold; serve on let- 
tuce leaves, with Ravigote sauce. 

OYSTER PLANT SALAD— Cold boiled oyster 
plant, cut in finger lengths; when very cold, 
season them with salt and pepper, dip the ends 
in Ravigote sauce, arrange on fancy strips of 
cooled toast (like asparagus) and garnish with 
aspic jelly. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



153 



OKRA SALAD— Okras blanched, drained and 
quartered; served on a bed of shredded endive; 
pour over French dressing containing chopped 
chives and chervil. 
PARTRIDGE SALAD— Cold trimmed joints of 
roast partridge, marinaded in tarragon vinegar 
and olive oil. (One in two add salt, pepper, 
minced chives and chervil); serve on a bed of 
shredded lettuce, pour the marinade over, 
garnish with sliced eggs, capers and gherkins. 
... (2) Cold roast partridge cut in dice, marin- 
aded for two hours in French dressing, drain 
it, then mix the partridge with an equal 
amount of diced white celery; place the salad 
on a leaf of lettuce, mask with a mayonnaise, 
garnish with minced pickle and chopped capers. 
POTATO SALAD— Cold boiled potatoes sliced, 
little minced onion and chopped parsley, mixed 
and seasoned with salt, pepper, oil and vine- 
gar. . . (2) Slices of cold boiled potatoes, shred- 
ded salt anchovies, chopped parsley, pepper, 
salt, French mustard, tarragon vinegar and 
cream salad dressing, all mixed together and 
served on lettuce. . . (3) Sliced thin cold boiled 
potatoes, thoroughly mixed with French dress- 
ing, adding a little more vinegar. . . (4) Sliced 
cold boiled potatoes, sliced onion, chopped 
parsley, fried bacon in dice with its fat, salt, 
pepper and cream salad dressing, all mixed 
together and served on lettuce. . . (5) Balls of 
potatoes scooped from peeled raw ones, steamed 
till done, then cooled, moistened with Hollan- 
daise sauce; served on lettuce and sprinkled 
with finely chopped chives and chervil. 

ROMAINE SALAD— Broad shredded Romaine 
lettuce leaves, sprinkled with salt, pepper, oil 
and tarragon vinegar. 

RUSSIAN SALAD— Cooked salad of -carrots, 
parsnips and beetroots cut in shapes; pieces of 
fowl and shredded anchovies, mixed together and 
seasoned with combined oil, vinegar and French 
mustard; served garnished with olives and 
caviar. , . (2) Cooked ham, smoked tongue, roast 
beef, chicken and mutton cut in dice, shredded 
salt anchovies; season and mix with Tartar 
sauce;serve within a border of shredded lettuce. 

RADISH SALAD— Take round red and white 
radishes, thoroughly clean them, then cut in 
halves, arrange the halves alternately, skin 
side up, on a bed of shredded lettuce, sprinkle 
with French dressing and garnish with stuffed 
olives. 

SARDINE SALAD— Hard boiled eggs and boiled 
onions in slices, sardines in fillets, dished up in 
alternate layers, sprinkled with French dress- 
ing containing chopped parsley, chives and 
chervil. 

SALMON SALAD — Equal quantities of cooked 
beet and raw celery minced, then mixed to- 
gether; boiled salmon in flakes added; season 



with salt and pepper to taste, then moisten with 
one part of vinegar to three parts of olive oil; 
serve on a bed of shredded lettuce and garnish 
with eggs. 

SALSIFY SALAD— Cold boiled salsify, mixed 
with French dressing, in centre of dish, garn- 
ished with small balls of steamed potatoes 
moistened with cream dressing. 

SCOTCH SALAD — Two parts of diced celery to 
one part of flakes of cooked salmon; season with 
oil, salt and vinegar; serve on lettuce, mask 
with mayonnaise, garnish with sliced egg and 
stuffed olives. 

SHRIMP SALAD — Shrimps marinaded in oil 
and vinegar, drained, mixed with shredded 
celery in inch lengths, dressed with mayon- 
naise, garnished with stoned olives, capers, 
hard boiled eggs and coiled shrimps. 

SPANISH SALAD— Peeled tomatoes sliced and 
arranged on dish with pickled small white 
onions, mayonnaise in centre. . . (2) Shredded 
endive garnished with quartered peeled toma- 
toes and quartered eggs, yolk removed and its 
place filled with shrimp paste. The endive to 
be sprinkled with minced sweet peppers and 
shallots, oil, salt, pepper and vinegar. 

SOUTHERN SALAD— Take tender okras, trim 
the ends, boil till tender, drain, let become 
very cold. Dip some sweet peppers in hot fat 
and take off the skins, then finely shred them 
like matches, mix them with the okras and 
serve with mayonnaise. . . (2) Boil till done 
some green peppers, let them become very cold, 
then shred them like matches and serve with 
French dressing. 

SWEDISH SALAD— Cut into dice an equal 
quantity of cold meat, boiled potatoes, green 
apples, pickled herring and salted anchovies, 
mix into it some chopped gherkins, capers and 
hard boiled eggs, mix all; serve on lettuce with 
French dressing and garnish with stoned olives. 

SWEETBREAD SALAD-Slices of cooked sweet- 
bread dipped in flour, fried with butter, then 
cooled and trimmed; shredded lettuce in centre 
of dish with salad cream dressing; sweetbreads 
masked with mayonnaise, arranged around the 
lettuce; garnish with slices of radishes and 
beetroot. 

TARTARE SALAD— Shredded lettuce, pickled 
cucumbers, pickled onions and pickled her- 
ring; slice the cucumbers and cut the herring 
in dice, mix together, season with a little oil 
and vinegar, and finish with Tartare sauce; 
serve on lettuce. 

TOMATO SALAD— Sliced peeled tomatoes mar- 
inaded in French dressing, drained, sprinkled 
with salt and pepper. . . (2) Sliced peeled to- 
matoes sprinkled with Parmesan cheese mois~ 
tened with Rhine wine and olive oil. 



154 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



VEAL SALAD — Equal quantities of cooked veal 
and boiled potatoes cut in dice with some white 
celery; seasoned with salt, pepper and cream 
salad dressing; served on lettuce, garnished 
with eggs. 
WATERCRESS SALAD— Crisp, cleaned and 
picked watercress, seasoned with salt, pepper 
and vinegar. 
COMBINATION SALADS— Slices of cold boiled 
potatoes, Brussels sprouts boiled and cooled, 
flowerets of boiled cauliflower, and shredded 
celerj, arranged neatly in salad bowl with 
French dressing. . . (2) Shred lettuce, endive, 
sliced tomatoes, spring onions and radishes, 
tossed lightly together with French dressing. . . 
(3) Slices of potatoes even in size, slices of 
truffles and minced shallots, dressed with oil 
and caper vinegar. . . (4) Yolks of eggs rubbed 
through a sieve, chopped egg whites, gherkins, 
chervil and soy, mixed with a little dressing 
composed of French mustard, essence of an- 
chovies, pepper and white wine vinegar, garn- 
ished with sliced potatoes, beetroot and celery. 
FRENCH DRESSING— Four parts of olive oil 
to one part of vinegar, white or tarragon, a lit- 
tle onion juice, finely chopped parsley, salt and 
pepper. 
CREAM DRESSING— One cup each of white 
vinegar and melted butter, one dessert spoon of 
dry mustard, one teaspoon of paprika, eight 
yolks of eggs, one quart of whipping cream. 
Boil the vinegar, butter and seasonings to- 
gether; pour it then to the beaten yolks, stir 
over the range till like custard, remove and 
cool, then whip the cream and beat it into the 
dressing. 
HOLLANDAISE DRESSING— One pint of 
white vinegar, one quart of milk, one cup of oil 
or melted butter, one basting spoonful of dry 
mustard, one teaspoon of red pepper, one 
tablespoonful of paprika, twelve eggs, salt to 
taste. Boil the vinegar with the seasonings; 
meanwhile separate the yolks and whites, and 
beat them separately; bring the milk to the boil 
and pour it to the yolks, then add the boiling 
vinegar, stir on the range till it just thickens 
like custard (do not let it boil or it will curdle). 
When of the custard consistency, remove from 
the fire and beat in the whipped whites with 
the melted butter or oil, then put away to cool 
for use. 
SALAMANDER— Name given to a heated iron 
plate used for quickly browning the gratinated 
surface of certain dishes of escalloped foods, 
etc. In some kitchens the dish is placed on the 
ashes under the hot bars of the grate; in others 
a small shovel is made hot. Where there is a 
gas oven with a top cooking surface the dish 
may be placed under the grill. All tend to the 
same purpose, that of quickly obtaining a 



brown surface without further cooking the in' 

terior. 

SALMI— SALMIS— These two words each sig- 
nify a form of stew, and seldom are they prop- 
erly used. It is always applied to game, 
SALMIS is used when the stew is made from 
cold cooked game that has been left over from 
a previous meal. SALMI is a stew made from 
fresh cooked game specially roasted at the time 
required to make the stew for thecoming meal. 

SALLY LUNN— Name applied to a light sweet 
yeast raised tea cake; served split and buttered, 
fresh and hot. 

SALMON, BOILED— If small, boil whole; if 
large cut in two or three. Put to boil in boil- 
ing salted water, laying the fish on a drainer, 
boil a minute, raise the drainer, let the water 
boil very rapidly, then plunge fish and drainer 
in again, then repeat the operation and allow 
to boil till done. By this method the albumen 
of the fish coagulates and the flesh eats much 
better Serve with plain melted butter, Hol- 
landaise, Allemande, caper, Bechamel, fennel, 
cream or butter parsley sauce. 

SALMON, BAKED— The fish should be small. 
Scale, trim, wash and dry it, turn the thin flap 
of the belly inwards and tie it with thin twine; 
cover the fish then with a fish forcemeat; bake 
and baste till done; serve in portions with 
Genoise or Ferigueux sauces. 

SALMON, BROILED— Scale, trim, wash and 
dry the fish, then cut in equally thick slices, 
season with cayenne pepper and salt, dip in 
olive oil, roll up in oiled paper, tuck in the ends 
and pin with a toothpick, plunge into hot fat 
and cook for 7 to 10 minutes according to the 
thickness, then raise the frying basket, let it 
drain for a minute; then put the cutlet, still in 
the paper, on the broiler, broil till nicely 
marked, remove the paper, place on dish; serve 
with Tartar, Genevoise, fine-herbs or maitre 
d'hotel sauces or with anchovy or Montpelier 
butter. 

SALMON STEAKS OR CUTLETS— Boil them 
in boiling seasoned white fish stock till done 
and serve with lobster, oyster, cucumber or 
supreme sauces. Saute them with clear butter 
a delicate brown and serve with Aurora, Milan- 
aise, Veloute, gherkin, piquante, or ravigote 
sauces. 

SALMON (COLD, BOILED)— May be served 
with sliced cucumbers, Tartar, ravigote or 
mayonnaise sauces. 

SALMON CROQUETTES— Take flakes of cold 
boiled salmon and shred them, season with red 
pepper and salt, also a dash each of anchovy 
and Harvey sauces. Then mix the fish wi»h 
one-third of its bulk of fresh mashed potatoes; 
turn on to a dish, smooth it over, allow to be- 
come cold, then shape pieces of the raixvure 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



155 



into small flat cutlets like a cutlet from the 
tail of the fish; bread and fry them and serve 
with cream or fennel sauces, garnish with Hol- 
landaise potatoes. 

SALMON, SMOKED— May be boiled and served 
with cream sauce. . . Broiled and served with 
devil or drawn butter sauce. . . Fried in oil and 
served with lemon sauce. . . Toasted and served 
with maitre d'hotel sauce. 

SALMON, MAYONNAISE OF— Take the center 
cut of a salmon, curl the flaps under and tie with 
twine, boil in seasoned fish stock till done, re- 
move and skin, then allow to become cold 
(retaining its shape), place on dish, mask well 
with mayonnaise, decorate the mayonnaise with 
lobster coral, garnish with watercress; serve. 

SALSIFY — For recipes, see "Oyster plant". 

SAUERKRAUT— See "cabbage". 

SAUCES AND THEIR USES. 

ADMIRAL SAUCE— Into a good butter sauce 
made with white seasoned fish stock, work 
some pounded anchovies, minced fried shal- 
lots, chopped capers, and a little grated lemon 
rind. . . Serve with bluefish saute . . . boiled 
pickerel . . . pike or muskallonge . . . boiled 
sheephead . . . boiled weakfish . . . Mackinaw 
trout. 

ALBERT SAUCE— Into a good butter sauce 
made from veal or other white stock, work some 
grated horseradish, minced fried shallots, 
chopped parsley, tarragon vinegar; boil up 
again, then strain, then finish with a liaison of 
egg yolks, a pinch of mustard and chopped 
parsley. Serve with braised fillet of beef, 
any braised beef. . . It is also used to poach 
eggs in when an addition of curry is given to it 
for "Eggs Indienne style". See eggs. 

ALLEMANDE SAUCE— Into a good Veloute 
sauce, work some lemon juice, a little mush- 
room catsup, cayenne, butter, yolks of eggs, a 
grating of nutmeg, then strain. It should be 
ye!low, and smooth as velvet. Serve with 
boiled pig's feet . . . braised eels . . . fried carp 
. . . paupiettes of sole . . . boiled codfish . . 
fried haddock . . . fried fillets of mackerel . . 
baked perch . . . baked shad . . . baked trout 
. . . boiled chicken . . . boiled pheasant . . . fried 
pike. It is also the foundation of many other 
sauces, fish especially. 

ALMOND SAUCE — A sweet custard sauce con- 
taining pounded and shredded almonds, also a 
dash of ratafia. Served with fig fritters . . . 
almond custard fritters, etc. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE— Anchovy butter worked in- 
to a good Espagnole sauce. Used for broiled 
steaks, baked fish, and as a filler for steak and 
oyster pie. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE— Into a well made butter 
sauce work in the juice of a lemon, a dash of 



cayenne pepper, some pounded anchovies or 
anchovy essence. Used for boiled fish such as: 
boiled bass, cod, plaice, haddock, halibut, her- 
ring, kingfish, pike, rockfish, weakfish, and shad 
roe. 

ANDALUSIAN SAUCE— Into a rich tomato 
sauce, work some grated lean cooked ham, and 
a little minced (fried) garlic. Used with braised 
meats, such as larded tenderloin of beef, fri- 
candeau of veal, legs or saddles of mutton, and 
haunch of venison. 

APRICOT SAUCE — A syrup sauce containing 
apricct marmalade and a flavoring of Catawba 
wine. Used for timbale of apples, charlotte of 
apples, apple puddings, apple fritters. 

AVIGNON SAUCE— Equal quantities of a Sou- 
bise puree" and a good Bechamel sauce com- 
bined together with the addition of a little 
crushed garlic, Parmesan cheese and olive oil; 
bring it to the boil, then thicken with a liaison 
of egg yolks, strain and use for boiled legs of 
mutton, boiled fowls and capons, stewed part- 
ridge, boiled pheasant, boiled salt leg of pork, 
fried sweetbreads, chicken croquettes, sweet- 
bread croquettes. 

AURORA SAUCE — Into some reduced Espag- 
nole sauce work enough lobster butter to give 
the sauce an orange color ... Or work lobster 
butter into a Bechamel sauce ... Or take two 
parts Bechamel and one part tomato sauce, 
adding also a little mushroom catsup and lob- 
ster butter. In either of these combinations 
add the juice of a lemon, a dash of cayenne 
pepper and tarragon vinegar. Used for baked 
carp, boiled cod steak, baked fillets of soles, 
halibut steak saut£, salmon steak saute, fillets 
of trout saute, boiled trout; also used in pre- 
paring "eggs a l'Aurcre" (see Eggs). 

BAVARIAN S.\UCE— Boil some vinegar to half 
its original volume with some butter, a little 
horseradish, salt and grated nutmeg; beat some 
yolks of eggs, then pour the boiling mixture to 
it to make like mayonnaise, strain, then beat 
in a little more butter, and some lobster roe, 
beat till creamy and frothy, then use for cold 
fish, and fish salads. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE— Into some reduced chick- 
en broth.add some mushroom essence or puree, 
an equal quantity of rich milk or cream, a season- 
ing of mace; bring to the boil, then thicken with 
roux (flour and butter), strain. Used for boiled 
chicken, scalloped codfish, scalloped halibut, 
scalloped turbot, scalloped sweetbreads;chicken, 
turkey and sweetbread croquettes; also for mix- 
ing with green peas, asparagus points, mace- 
doine of vegetables, etc. when used for garnish- 
ing. 

BEARNAISE SAUCE— Braise some shallots 
with a little tarragon vinegar, add some rich, 
thin Veloute sauce, simmer, then add some 



156 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



beaten yolks of eggs; when like custard, re- 
move from the fire, then beat in melted butter 
at the rate of three tablespoons to the pint, 
work in the juice of a lemon, a little cayenne 
pepper, then strain and finish with some finely 
chopped parsley and tarragon. Used for 
broiled steaks, roast fillet of beef, broiled 
sweetbreads, lamb fries, veal and lamb cutlets. 

BEYROUT SAUCE— Fetch to the boil one and a 
half pounds of butter with two minced medium 
sized onions, a basting spoonful of tarragon vine- 
gar and the same of common vinegar, a half pint 
of Espagnole, a half cupful each of mushroom 
catsup and Harvey sauce; simmer, skim, then 
boil till creamy, remove from the fire, finish 
with a litrie sugar and anchovy essence. Used 
with cold fish and fish salads. 

BIGARADE SAUCE- -Take equal quantities of 
game and Espagnole sauces, and work in the 
juice and grated rind of Seville or other bitter 
orange. Used for braised fillet of beef, stewed 
duck, fried duckling, roast duck. 

BOHEMIAN SAUCE— Make some panada with 
chicken or veal broth, and work into it some 
grated horseradish and a little butter. (A 
white bread sauce, used with roast partridge). 

BOUERGOISE SAUCE— Into a pint of thin 
Espagnole, work a spoonful each of chopped 
parsley, chervil, tarragan, meat glaze, French 
mustard and sugar, bring it to a simmer, then 
add the juice of a lemon. Used with forcemeat 
balls; in garnishing fricandeaus of veal, car- 
bonades of mutton, roulade of veal, saute of 
pigs feet (boneless), and braised ox heart. 

BOURGIGNOTTE SAUCE— Into some Espag- 
nole, work some minced fried onions, sliced 
truffles and mushrooms, finish with some Bur- 
gundy wine. Used with braised small game 
birds, braised carp, whole carp stewed in red 
wine, fried cutlets of sturgeon, mutton cutlets 
sautees, fillets of pigeons sautees. 

BORDELAISE SAUCE, WHITE— Into a rich 
butter sauce work some minced fried shallots, 
chopped parsley and white wine. Used with 
matelote of eels, paupiettes of soles, boiled 
mackerel, crimped cutlets of pike, boiled hali- 
but, turbot. 

BORDELAISE SAUCE, BROWN— Into some 
Espagnole, work some minced fried shallots, 
and garlic, red wine, cayenne papper, chopped 
parsley, lemon juice and slices of beef marrow . 
Used with broiled steaks and almost any braised 
red meat . . . Omit the marrow and add fillets 
of anchovies and a little anchovy essence, it is 
then used with braised fish, also baked and 
broiled fish. 

BRESSOISE SAUCE— Into some Madeira sauce, 
work a puree made of chicken livers, panada, 
fried minced shallots, grated rind and juice of 
an orange. Used with roast chicken, chicken 



croquettes, roast capon, omelet of chicken liv- 
ers, and quenelles of turkey. 

BRETONNE SAUCE, HOT— Into some Espag- 
nole, work a puree of fried onions, finish with 
chopped parsley. Used with roast mutton, 
braised saddle of mutton, cutlets of mutton, 
braised ox cheek, and grenadins of pork. 

BRETONNE SAUCE, COLD— A spoonful each 
of mustard and sugar, with two spoonfuls of 
grated horseradish, worked into a half pint of 
tarragon vinegar. Used with cold roast or 
braised mutton, beef, ox tongue, roast pork, 
etc. 

CAPER SAUCE— Into a good butter or Veloute 
sauce, work in some whole capers and a little 
tarragon vinegar. Used with boiled mutton, 
boiled fresh ox tongue and boiled pigs feet. 

CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH —Make a white 
roux, moisten it with a light consomme, season 
it with cayenne, grated nutmeg, essence of 
anchovies, lemon juice, and capers, with a dash 
of caper vinegar. Used with broiled salmon 
steak, broiled carp, baked codfish, boiled red 
mullet, boiled pike, boiled sheephead, boiled 
red snapper, boiled shad, and braised salmon 
trout. 

CARROT SAUCE — Into some Veloute sauce 
work a puree of young carrots. Very good for 
boiled beef. 

CARDINAL SAUCE— Into a good Veloute sauce 
work some lobster butter, a little anchovy es- 
sence, lemon juice, cayenne, essence of mush- 
rooms, and lobster roe, or shrimps, rubbed 
through a tamis. Used with boiled chicken 
and capon, boudins of lobster, paupiettes of 
soles, ragout of mullets, fillets of perch, stuffed 
and braised carp and pike, boiled salmon, fillets 
of turbot and halibut, fillets of soles and boiled 
sturgeon. 

CAULIFLOWER SAUCE— Into a good butter 
sauce work some small flowerets of white cauli- 
flower. Very good for boiled poultry. 

CELERY SAUCE, WHITE— Into some light 
Allemande sauce work a puree of celery. Good 
with boiled turkey and white entrees of turkey 
wings. 

CELERY SAUCE, BROWN— Into a good thick- 
ened roast poultry gravy work in some finely 
cut celery and simmer it till done. Very good 
with roast poultry, and dry, brown entrees of 
poultry. 

CHASSEUR SAUCE— Into equal parts of Es- 
pagnole and tomato sauces, work some minced 
fried onions, sliced mushrooms, chopped pars- 
ley and lemon juice. Used with mutton cut- 
lets sautees, saute* of partridge, veal cutlets, 
roast prairie chicken, roast black game, braised 
small game birds, venison steak, cutlets of roe- 
buck, roast young rabbit, 'egs of rabbit saute, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



157 



fillets of hare or jackrabbit, and braised larded 
ribs of beef. 

CHANTAUSEN SAUCE— A syrup sauce flav- 
ored with cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and 
Chantausen wine. Used for puddings and 
sweet entrees. 

CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE— One pint of Es- 
pagnole, a half pint of meat glaze, a half pint 
of white wine, simmer, strain, then beat in a 
half pint of maitre d'hotel sauce. Used with 
broiled steaks, fillets of beef. 

CHAMBORD SAUCE— Into a pint of Veloute, 
work a half pint of white mushroom pured, a 
piece of chicken glaze, a glass of sauterne, and 
a spoonful of lobster butter. Used with fillets 
of bass, baked bass, pike, carp, fish croquettes. 

CHAMPAGNE SAUCE— Into a pint of Espag- 
nole, simmer a half pint each of sherry wine 
and vinegar with a little sugar. Good with 
roast ham. 

CHADEAU SAUCE— A foaming sauce of eight 
yolks and two whites of eggs, juice of a lemon, 
half a pound of sugar, a quart of chablis, 
whipped over a slow fire to boiling point. Used 
for sweet entrees. 

CHAUDFROID SAUCE— Take some carcasses 
of roast game or poultry and a bunch of mixed 
garden herbs, cover with good stock, simmer 
for several hours, strain, skim, boil up again 
and add enough gelatine to make a brown 
jellied gravy. Used with roast poultry. 

CHERRY SAUCE— Sweet, butter sauce, con- 
taining cherries that have been stewed with 
port wine and sugar, then rubbed through a 
sieve. Used for sweet entrees. 

CHEVREUIL SAUCE— Into one-third part Es- 
pagnole sauce, one-third tomato sauce and one- 
third stock, add a little thyme, a bunch of pars- 
ley, two or three bay leaves, some minced fried 
shallots, a spoonful of white pepper, some tar- 
ragon vinegar and butter; reduce it to one-half 
of its original bulk, strain, finish with currant 
jelly, Harvey sauce and port wine. Used with 
roebuck and venison, roasted, filleted, braised, 
etc. 

CHILI SAUCE— Chop together six tomatoes, 
four green peppers, one onion, add them to a 
pint of white wine vinegar, with one teaspoon 
of sugar and a little salt, simmer for one hour, 
strain, bottle. Used as a table condiment. 

CHILI SAUCE— Into a good Bechamel sauce, 
work some minced red peppers, tomatoes, shal- 
lots and minced parsley, finish with melted 
butter, catawba wine and lime juice. Good 
with veal cutlets, pork tenderloins, boneless 
pigs feet, stewed catfish, lamb fries, fricadelles, 
broiled beef palates, pickled lamb tongues. 

CLAREMONT SAUCE— Minced onions fried in 



oil, drained, then added to a thick veal gravy. 
Good with roast veal. 

CLARET SAUCE— A foaming sauce of grated 
lemon rind, powdered cinnamon, eggs, sugar and 
claret, whipped over a slow fire to boiling 
point. Used with puddings and sweet entrees. 

COLBERT SAUCE— Into a pint of Espagnole, 
work in a spoonful of meat glaze, a little cay- 
enne, lemon juice and chopped parsley, make 
very hot, but do not boil, then very gradually 
beat in a cupful of melted butter. Used with 
broiled meats, and most cutlets. 

COURT -BOUILLON SAUCE— Into a butter 
sauce that has been made from the stock of 
boiled fish, add some rings of boiled onions and 
chopped parsley. Used with boiled codfish, 
boiled haddock, braised eels, boiled rockfish, 
boiled plaice, boiled weakfish, boiled redsnap- 
per, and boiled salmon trout. 

CRAPAUDINE SAUCE— Take equal quantities 
of Espagnole and tomato sauces, combine them, 
then add some minced gherkins, shallots, chives, 
olives and capers, a little mustard, tarragon 
vinegar, minced mushrooms and a glass of 
sherry wine. Used with braised brisket of 
beef, broiled pork chops, frog legs, boiled calf's 
head, broiled pigeons, fried saddles of rabbit, 
calf's liver saute, braised fillets of hare, broiled 
opossum, braised turtle fins, and venison. 

CREOLE SAUCE— Into a good tomato sauce, 
work in some chopped blanched sweet peppers, 
minced fried shallots, a little Madeira sauce 
and Madeira wine. Used with scallops of fillet 
of beef, ragout of beef, chicken saute, pork 
rissoles, honeycomb tripe cut in finger lengths 
and stewed down rich in it, catfish steak saute, 
tomatoes stuffed with crab meat, fried oysters, 
timbales of spaghetti, boiled spaghetti with 
minced ham made hot in it, broiled pork kid- 
neys and lamb fries, pork tenderloins, fried 
spareribs, veal chops saute^s, timbale of calf 
brains, croquettes of beef, beef sweetbreads 
sautees, minced mutton cutlets. 

CREVETTE SAUCE— Into a cardinal sauce 
work some pieces of shrimps and anchovies. 
Used with boiled crimped codfish, boiled plaice 
and flounders, fillets of Spanish mackerel, 
boiled trout and whitefish, fried soles. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE— Into a good butter sauce, 
work a puree of cucumbers or some slices of 
cucumber fried with butter. Good for boiled 
salmon and trout. 

CURRY SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce, boil a 
ham knuckle for an hour, then remove and 
work in a liaison of egg yolks beaten with curry 
powder; simmer, strain. Used with pork chops, 
pork tenderloin, fried veal chops and cutlets, 
and tripe. 

CZARINA SAUCE — Into some Espagnole work 
the juice of a lemon, some minced gherkins and 



158 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 
then 



seedless raisins, boil till the fruit is soft 
serve with boiled ox tongue. 

CURACOA SAUCE— A butter syrup sauce con- 
taining curacoa. Used with puddings and some 
sweet entrees in the fritter line. 

CUSTARD SAUCE — Boiling milk or cream 
poured to and whipped in to half a pound of 
sugar and six beaten eggs to each quart of milk; 
flavored as desired, but generally with nutmeg 
or vanilla. Used with puddings and sweet 
entrees. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE-Cranberries stewed with 
sugar till soft, then rubbed through a sieve. 
Used with roast turkey. 

DIABLE SAUCE — Three tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, three of meat glaze, one of 
sugar, half a cupful of mushroom catsup, and 
the same of white wine, juice of a lemon, and 
enough cayenne pepper to make it as hot as its 
name implies; thoroughly incorporate while 
making it hot, but do not allow it to boil. Used 
with broiled steaks, broiled kidneys, broiled 
ham steaks, broiled live lobster, broiled pork 
chops and spareribs. 

DIABLE SAUCE— Another way of making is to 
take one- third stock and two-thirds of good 
Espagnole, and work into them some Worces- 
tershire sauce, cayenne pepper and made mus- 
tard, then simmer and strain. 

DIPLOMATE SAUCE— Into a good Bechamel 
sauce, work some crayfish butter and a little 
court-bouillon. Good for most boiled white 
fleshed fish. 

DUCHESSE SAUCE— Into a pint of tomato 
sauce work in half a pint of lean cooked ham 
in small dice, half a cupful of white wine, a 
little glaze, bring to the boil, remove from the 
fire, and then beat in a half pint of Hollandaise 
sauce. Used with pork, veal and mutton chops, 
plain macaroni, Vienna steaks, pork tenderloin 
and spareribs, ham croquettes, fried tripe, epi- 
gramme of sweetbreads, braised breast of veal, 
roulade of mutton, fried boneless pigs feet 
breaded, rechauffe of mutton, fried chicken 

D'UXELLES SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce, 
work some white wine, minced mushrooms, 
grated tongue and chopped parsley ... Or else 
use Bechamel sauce and work in minced pars- 
ley, shallots, mushrooms and grated ham. It 
is used for coating cutlets prior to their being 
breaded and fried. 
EGG SAUCE — Into a butter sauce, work in some 
chopped hard boiled eggs and the juice of a 
lemon. Useful for all kinds of plain boiled 
fish. 
ESPAGNOLE SAUCE— Two pounds of good 
cooking butter placed in the bottom of a large 
sautoir; into it then place, chopped in good 
sized pieces, two ham knuckles, three shins of 



veal, a shin of beef, and let them fry brown; 
then add slices of carrots, onions, turnips, cel- 
ery, parsiey, thyme, marjoram, savory, bay 
leaves, cloves, allspice, peppers; when browned, 
add sufficient flour to form a roux. Let the 
flour brown also Then moisten gradually with 
a rich clear brown stock; boil up and skim, 
then add plenty of tomatoes; boil and skim 
again, then add two or three chickens (old ones, 
useful for salad afterward) or roast fowl car- 
casses; simmer slowly for several hours, then 
strain off into a clean sautoir; then add a gallon 
of consomme, and reduce rapidly till of a good 
consistency ; strain off again and finish with good 
sherry wine. This is one of the grand stock 
sauces which form the basis of most of the 
brown sauces used. YOU CANNOT BE TOO 
PARTICULAR IN ITS PREPARATION, 
FOR IF THE FIRST PROCESS IS NOT 
SUCCESSFULLY EFFECTED, NO SUB- 
SEQUENT CARE WILL REMEDY THE 
MISCHIEF. 

FINE HERBS SAUCE — Saute together with 
butter some minced parsley, shallots and mush- 
rooms, season with a little pepper and nutmeg; 
after about five minutes, pour off the waste 
butter, and add a ladle of good Espagnole 
if for brown, or a ladle of good Veloute sauce 
if for white. Used with scallops of mutton, 
scallops of hare and rabbit, fried reed and rice 
birds, saute of soles, brook trout baked in cases 
of paper spread with the sauce, roulade of beef, 
stuffed calf's heart, roulade of veal, veal chops 
and cutlets, broiled steaks, brains, sweetbreads, 
lamb fries. 

FENNEL SAUCE- Into a good butter sauce, 
work a spoonful of chopped fennel leaves. 
Looks like parsley sauce. Used with boiled 
mackerel and boiled salmon. 

FINANCIERE SAUCE— Into a quart of good 
Espagnole, work a little meat glaze, cayenne, a 
half pint of Madeira wine, a half pint of mush- 
room liquor or mushroom catsup, and a few 
minced mushrooms and truffles Used with 
roast or braised black game and grouse, . . . 
boudins of game, . . . sauteed fillets of fowls, 
. . . larded and braised legs of fowls, . . .boned, 
stuffed and braised saddle of lamb, . . . paupi- 
ettes of ox palates, ... for heating a salmis of 
partridge, ... for a filling to raised pies of 
game, rabbits and quails, . . . roast pheasant, 
. . . boned, stuffed and braised quails, . . . 
larded and braised fillets of rabbits, . . . braised 
sweetbreads, . . . turkey stuffed with veal force- 
meat and roasted, . . . veal chops larded and 
braised, . . . larded and braised fricandeau of 
veal, . . . larded and braised woodcocks. 

FLEMISH SAUCE— (i) Into a butter sauce, 
work a little grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, 
tarragon vinegar, and a liaison of yolk of eggs 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



159 



with a little mustard. (2) Make a quart of veg- 
etable cream sauce, then take a cupful of the 
red part of carrot, mince it, boil till done, add 
it to the sauce, together with some chopped 
cucumber, pickles, parsley and grated horse 
radish. Used with boiled beef. 

FUMET SAUCE— Into a good Espagnole, boi' 
some game carcasses, strain and finish with 
port wine. Used with roast game. 

GENEVOISE SAUCE— Into a good Espagnole, 
add a little grated ham, carrots, minced onions, 
a few bay leaves, cloves, a clove of garlic, some 
thyme and parsley, boil fifteen minutes, add 
some claret wine, strain, and finish by beating 
in anchovy essence and butter to taste. Used 
with braised eels, baked pike, broiled salmon, 
broiled red snapper, fricandeau of sturgeoD, 
baked trout, baked whitefish, brook trout, 
braised sheephead, baked pickerel, baked Span- 
ish mackerel, baked and stuffed bluefish, black- 
fish saute. 

GENOISE SAUCE— Equal quantities of Espag- 
nole and court-bouillon sauces boiled together 
for ten minutes with the addition of some port 
wine, ground mace, essence of anchovies and 
walnut catsup, then strain, finish with a little 
chopped parsley. Used with larded and braised 
eels, fillets of bluefish, roast carp, baked cod 
steak, roast eels, baked haddock, baked Span- 
ish mackerel, baked mullet, braised pike and 
pickerel, baked salmon, braised sheephead, 
broiled fillets of red snapper, baked sturgeon, 
baked trout, baked or braised carp, boiled char, 
matelote of eels, broiled mackerel, boiled 
salmon steak, roast turbot and halibut. 

GERMAN SAUCE— A foaming sauce, made of 
twelve eggs beaten fifteen minutes. Now place 
into a sautoir half a pound of powdered sugar 
and a pint of Marsala wine, make hot, but do 
not boil, then beat in the eggs with the juice of 
a couple of lemons, whip till thick and frothy 
without boiling. A rich pudding sauce. 

GIBLET SAUCE— The trimmed and finely shred 
gizzards, livers and hearts of poultry stewed 
tender and added to the thickened and strained 
gravy of roast poultry and served with it. 

GODARD SAUCE— Fry some slices of ham, car- 
rots and onions in butter till brown, then add a 
quart of good cider, simmer for half an hour, 
then add a can of mushrooms minced, and their 
liquor, reduce for ten minutes, then strain it 
into a quart of good Espagnole, and boil till 
creamy. Used with braised fowls, braised 
capons, braised turkey, roast ham, boned, 
stuffed and braised saddle of lamb, braised leg 
of mutton, carbonade of mutton. 

GOLDEN SAUCE (Sauce Doree)— Half a pound 
of butter beaten till very creamy; into it dis- 
solve half a pound of powdered sugar, now beat 
in the yolks of two eggs over the fire; when 



thick, work in half a pint of brandy and a grat- 
ing of nutmeg. A good pudding sauce. 

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce, 
work a puree of stewed green gooseberries. It 
is liked by many with boiled mackerel. 

HAM SAUCE — Into a Madeira sauce, work some 
minced shallots and grated ham that have been 
fried together, finish with the juice of a lemon. 
Used with roast veal. 

HANOVER SAUCE— Take chicken livers and 
boil them, then rub through the tamis, add 
cream sauce, lemon juice and a dash of cay- 
enne, little salt, make hot but do not boil. Used 
with roast poultry. 

HARROGATE SAUCE— After roasting veal and 
poultry, take the roasting pan, add some 
minced shallots and grated lemon rind, bake 
till shallots are brown, then add some flour and 
stir it with the residue in the pan from the 
roasting, moisten with stock to the proper con- 
sistency of sauce, then add some mushroom 
catsup, cayenne, claret wine and lemon juice, 
boil up, strain and skim. Used with roast veal 
and poultry. 

HARD SAUCE — One pound of powdered sugar 
and eleven ounces of good butter worked to- 
gether till creamy. Some add grated nutmeg. 
Used with plum pudding. 

HAVRAISE SAUCE— Make a good butter sauce 
with strong broth from boiled fish, then beat 
in a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Good for 
all plain fish boiled. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE— One cupful each of 
white vinegar and butter, a half cup of lemon 
juice, two cupfuls of chicken stock, little salt 
and cayenne, boil, then pour it, beating the 
while, to a liaison of egg yolks till thick like 
custard. Used with boiled sea bass, boiled cod- 
fish and haddock, fillets of codfish, boiled eels, 
boiled plaice and flounders, boiled halibut, 
boiled kingfish, boiled perch, boiled rockfish, 
boiled salmon, boiled sheephead, boiled weak- 
fish, boiled sturgeon, boiled whitefish, cauli- 
flower, asparagus. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE— Fresh grated horse- 
radish boiled in white stock, seasoned with 
pepper and nutmeg, then is worked in a liaison 
of egg yolks and tarragon vinegar. MUST 
NOT BOIL after liaison is added. Used with 
boiled beef, broiled steaks . . . Another form 
for roast beef is to add the grated root to 
thickened and strained roast beef gravy, add- 
ing a little Worcestershire sauce . . . Again, 
for cold roast beef, simply grated horseradish 
seasoned with salt and white vinegar. Some 
add to this a little cream sauce. 

INDIENNE SAUCE— Braise together some ham 
trimmings, a few anchovies, onions, green 
apples, thyme and whole peppers, then add 



i6o 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



curry powder to taste, fill up with Veloute 
sauce, boil, add the juice of a lemon and a few 
beaten yolks, beat till creamy, then strain for 
use with pork chops, pork tenderloin, fried veal 
chops and cutlets, fried tripe, fried chicken, 
roast veal, fried calf's head, fried sweetbreads 
and lamb fries, cannelons of ox palates, fried 
pigs feet, fried saddles of rabbit. 

ITALIAN SAUCE, WHITE— Into a Veloute 
sauce, work some minced and fried shallots and 
mushrooms, chopped parsley arid white wine. 
For ITALIAN SAUCE, BROWN, substitute 
Espagnole for Veloute, and Madeira for the 
white wine. Used with calf's head, boiled 
calf's tongue, broiled calf's liver, fried pigs 
feet, attereaux of rabbit, broiled tripe, stuffed 
turkey legs, sauteed artichokes, braised black 
game and grouse, fried calf's feet, capilotade 
of chicken, boiled chicken, boudins of salmon, 
sauteed fillets of haddock, fried larks, rice and 
reed birds, roast pheasant, croquettes of rabbit, 
chicken and turkey, fried skate, boiled trout, 
fillets of turbot and halibut, scallops of veal 
and ham, breaded pork tenderloin. 

JARDINIERE SAUCE— Take a small column 
cutter and cut out columns of carrots, white 
and yellow turnips; slice them quarter inch 
thick, add some very small button onions; fry 
all in butter with a little sugar; when brown, 
add a little stock and simmer till done, then 
drain them; when drained, place them into a 
rich Espagnole sauce, adding some cooked green 
peas, finely cut stringless beans and very small 
pieces of cauliflower Used with braised beef' 
boudins of partridge, braised calf's liver, braised 
capon, braised duck, braised neck of mutton, 
larded and roast leg of lamb, boned and braised 
leg of mutton, braised ox cheek, boiled salted 
ox tongue, fricandeau of veal, roast breast of 
veal, boned, stuffed and braised breast of veal 

JOLIE-FILLE SAUCE— Half a pint of panada 
two small onions sliced, two yolks of hard 
boiled eggs, one pound of veal or poultry meat, 
all boiled with one quart of Veloute sauce; 
when done, rub through'the tamis, and bring 
to the sauce consistency with boiling milk; fin- 
ish with a little chopped parsley. Used with 
boiled chicken, boiled capon, boiled turkey, 
sweetbreads, croquettes of veal, fowl, turkey, 
sweetbreads, lamb, and boudins of white meat. 

LIVOURNAISE SAUCE— Into a mayonnaise 
work some pounded anchovies and chopped 
parsley. Used with cold fish. 

LIVERNAISE SAUCE— Out of carrots, white 
and yellow turnips, scoop very small balls 
steam them till barely done, then drain, and 
fry with a little butter and sugar to glaze them; 
then add them to equal parts of Espagnole and 
tomato sauces; simmer till done. Used with 
sauteed cutlets of veal, mutton, fricandeaus of 



veal, braised legs and saddles of mutton, fillets 
of beef, braised fowls and capon. 

LYONNAISE SAUCE— Into a combined sauce 
of two-thirds tomato and one-third Espagnole, 
add rings of onions that have been lightly fried 
with butter and then drained. Used with sau- 
teed fillets of fowls, broiled pork cutlets, roast 
leg or sparerib of pork, sauteed legs or saddles 
of rabbit. 

LOBSTER SAUCE— Into a butter sauce work 
some lobster roe, pieces of lobster meat, lemon 
juice and a dash of cayenne. Used with cro- 
quettes of lobster, boiled haddock, cod, pike, 
whitefish, pickerel, plaice, saute of red snap- 
per, lobster cutlets, croquettes of shad roe. 

MADEIRA SAUCE— Powdered sugar, Madeira 
wine, yolks of eggs and grated lemon rind 
beaten together over fire till thick. Used with 
puddings and sweet entrees. 

MADEIRA SAUCE— Equal quantities of Espag- 
nole and tomato sauces well flavored with 
Madeira wine. Used with steaks, cutlets, ten- 
loin of beef, broiled liver, fried chicken, broiled 
calf kidneys, braised fillets of hare, partridge, 
roast pigeon, roast prairie chicken, brochette 
or epigramme of rabbit, cutlets, croquettes and 
rissoles of rabbit, glazed sweetbreads, broiled 
turtle steaks, braised turtle fins, broiled veal 
cutlets, kromeskies of veal, broiled venison 
steak. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL Sauce— Into melted butter 
add lemon juice, chopped parsley and a little 
grated nutmeg. Used with broiled steaks, fried 
calf brains, broiled boneless pigs feet, broiled 
snipe, broiled sweetbreads, brochette of fowl 
and turkey, broiled woodcock and partridge, 
artichoke bottoms, broiled soft shell crabs, 
broiled frog legs, broiled lobster, broiled fresh 
mushrooms, broiled oysters; broiled fish such 
as sea bass, blackfish, fillets of striped bass, 
bluefish, cisco, haddock, finnan haddie, hali- 
but, herring, kingfish, Spanish mackerel, fresh 
mackerel, salt mackerel, gray mullet, fillets of 
pike and pickerel, smelts, salmon trout, brook 
trout and whitefish, shad. 

MATELOTE SAUCE— Into abutter sauce work 
some boiled button onions, scalded mussels and 
oysters, a flavor of garlic, essence of anchovies, 
lemon juice and a dash of cayenne. Used with 
boiled carp, crimped codfish, conger eel, skate, 
sturgeon, bluefish, baked codfish and boiled 
red snapper. 

MATELOTE SAUCE— Equal quantities of veal 
broth and white wine, some tarragon, parsley, 
bay leaves, pepper and salt; boil ten minutes, 
add a little Veloute sauce and strain. Used 
with veal entries, roast veal and boiled calf 
brains. 

MAINTENON SAUCE- Braise some ham trim- 
mings, chopped shallots, parsley and mush- 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



161 



rooms with a little sugar and lemon juice; take 
out the ham, add some Veloute sauce, reduce, 
finish with a liaison of egg yolks, then strain. 
Used with croquettes of white fleshed meats 
and fowls, boudins of white meat, etc., and for 
heating pieces of cooked white meat, etc., for 
developing into entrees. 

MAYONNAISE SAUCE— Take raw yolks of 
eggs, beat in a little olive oil; when it becomes 
like butter, add some salt, then a little more 
oil, then dry mustard and cayenne; then alter- 
nately oil, vinegar and lemon juice, till thick 
enough to spread. Used with salads, cold fish, 
and with aspic jelly to make aspic mayonnaise. 

MILANAISE SAUCE— Into equal quantities of 
Veloute and Supreme sauces, work some Par- 
mesan cheese. Used with boiled capon, calf's 
sweetbreads, boiled chicken, boiled leg of 
lamb, breaded mutton and veal cutlets, quen- 
elles and boudins. 

MINT SAUCE — Finely chopped green mint and 
a little grated orange rind placed in a tureen, 
vinegar brought to the boil with enough sugar 
to take off the rawness; poured to the chopped 
min't, etc.; served with roast lamb. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE (WHITE)— Into a Vel- 
oute or Bechamel sauce work a puree of mush- 
rooms, and some sliced button mushrooms that 
have been lightly fried with butter; season with 
lemon juice and cayenne. Used with boiled 
chicken, capon, pheasant, partridge, sweet- 
breads, legs and saddles of rabbits, turkey 
wings, croquettes and rissoles of poultry, sweet- 
breads, veal, etc. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE (BROWN)— Into equal 
quantities ox Espagnole and tomato sauces, 
work in some mushroom puree and sliced but- 
ton mushrooms that have been fried with but- 
ter; a little chopped parsley, lemon juice and 
Madeira wine. Used with roast fillet of beef, 
braised sirloin of beef, broiled steaks, braised 
ox and calf tongues, scallops of calf's liver, 
braised veal, braised fowls, broiled pigeons and 
young rabbits, cromeskies of sweetbreads, 
broiled sweetbreads, broiled tripe, braised 
turkey legs, roulade of veal, stuffed shoulder of 
veal, fricandeau of veal, venison chops, broiled 
veal chops and cutlets, broiled chicken, Ham- 
burgher and Vienna steaks, braised ox heart, 
stuffed calf's and sheep hearts. 

N ANTAISE S AUCE-Into a white Ravigote sauce, 
work in some pounded lobster and coral. Used 
with fillets of fish such as soles, pompano, 
kingfish, bass, pickerel, red snapper, trout, 
whitefish, also with carp and shad roes. 

NAPOLITAINE SAUCE— Into some Espagnole, 

- work a little currant jelly, seedless raisins 
and port wine. Used with braised capon, braised 
sweetbreads, braised fresh ox tongue, braised 
venison, braised turtle fins. 



NEAPOLITAN SAUCE— Braise some vegetables 
and bacon with garden herbs; when done, add 
equal quantities of Espagnole and tomato 
sauces, some game glaze and Madeira wine, 
simmer twenty minutes and then strain. Used 
with braised game chiefly. 

NEAPOLITAN SAUCE— Into a good Espagnole, 
work some currant jelly, grated horseradish, 
grated ham, port wine and Harvey sauce. 
Used with braised meat. 

NICEOISE SAUCE— Into some cold Veloute 
sauce work a liaison of hard boiled yolks of 
eggs rubbed through a sieve and mixed with 
oil vinegar, mustard, chopped chives and pars- 
ley. This is a good cold sauce for cold meats. 

NORMANDE SAUCE— Equal quantities of 
court-bouillon and scalded oyster liquor thick- 
ened lightly with roux, then with a liaison of 
egg yolks and cream. Use with eels, filleted 
sole, plaice, trout, pike, pickerel, whitefish, 
halibut 

NONPAREIL SAUCE— Into a Hollandaise sauce 
work some sliced fried button mushrooms, 
minced truffles, lobster coral, lobster butter and 
some slices of hard boiled whites of eggs. Used 
with boiled white flesh fish 

ONION SAUCE, WHITE AND BROWN— Into 
a Bechamel sauce simmer minced onions till 
tender. Into equal quantities of Madeira and 
Espagnole sauces simmer till tender some 
minced fried onions. The white is generally 
used with boiled mutton, and the brown with 
roast and braised mutton. 

ORANGE SAUCE— Into a brown poultry thick- 
ened and strained gravy, simmer till tender 
some shredded orange peel and finish with the 
juice of an orange. Used with roast and braised 
ducks. 

OYSTER SAUCE— Into a sauce Poulette, work 
some scalded and cut up oysters, also some of 
the scalded and strained oyster liquor. Used 
with boiled white flesh fish, boiled capon, 
boiled chicken and boiled turkey. 

PARSLEY SAUCE— Into a butter sauce, work 
some chopped parsley. Used with plain boiled 
fish, boiled chicken, calf's head; dipping cut- 
lets of meat and fowl in before breading; also 
for mixing in with foods in preparing various 
entrees. 

PASCALINE SAUCE— Take some thin white 
Italian sauce and raw egg yolks with the juice 
of a lemon, simmer till creamy, strain, add 
some chopped and blanched parsley. Used 
with boiled poultry, sweetbreads, for reheating 
entrees of the same, calf's head, calf brains, 
pigs feet, turkey wings, grenadins of veal. 

PERIGUEUX SAUCE— Into a Madeira sauce 
work some minced and fried shallots, a little 
meat glaze, anchovy butter, sliced truffles and 



l62 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Madeira wine. Used with fillets of beef , sweet- 
breads, croquettes of poultry and game, stuffed 
pheasant legs, quenelles of turtle, cromeskies 
of veal, braised small game birds, roast black 
game, boudins of poultry, carp stewed in wine 
and drained, fried fillets of hare and rabbit, 
roast turkey, roast pheasant, larded and roasted 
pork, veal cutlets, filleted woodcock. 
PIQUANTE SAUCE— Minced pickles, shallots, 
olives, capers, a spoonful each of lemon juice 
and caper vinegar, mixed intc a Madeira sauce, 
simmered for a few minutes and served with 
boiled beef, pigs feet, calf's head, boiled 
tongue, calf's liver, carbonade of mutton, fried 
or broiled young pigeons, pork chops and pork 
tenderloin, braised venison, venison rissoles, 
broiled and fried tripe, antelope, bear, veni- 
son and buffalo steaks. 

PORTUGUESE SAUCE— Reduce with half a 
pint of sherry wine, a bay leaf, thyme, mace, 
peppercorns, cloves, for ten minutes, then add 
half a pint of Espagnole and half that quantity 
of consomm£; let the whole boil slowly till of 
the required consistency, skim, then strain and 
use with braised fillet of beef . 

POIVRADE SAUCE— Fry together with butter 
of a light brown color a diced carrot, diced 
onion and a head of celery, a slice of lean ham 
diced, some thyme, parsley, blade of mace, bay 
leaf, and a few bruised peppercorns; then 
moisten with half a pint of sherry and the same 
of white vinegar. Reduce to half its volume^ 
then add a ladle of Espagnole and a little con- 
somme; boil up, skim, strain, and use with 
braised mutton, braised roebuck, cannelons of 
ox-palates, saute of rabbits and hares, roast 
young rabbit, broiled legs and saddles of rab- 
bit; legs and saddles of cooked rabbit, cooled, 
then breaded and fried; larded fillets of veni- 
son, venison chops and braised venison. 

Another way of making POIVRADE SAUCE 
is to take equal quantities of Espagnole and 
tomato sauces, work in some minced shallots, a 
bunch of parsley, bay leaves, a tablespoon of 
white pepper to each quart, along with two 
ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of vin- 
egar; reduce to half its volume, strain, then 
finish with a little Harvey sauce, port wine and 
red currant jelly. 

POLONAISE SAUCE— Make a sauce with veal 
broth and boil in it some grated horseradise, 
juice of a lemon, chopped fennel or parsley 
leaves and a little sugar; season with salt and 
nutmeg, strain and use with roast veal. 

PAPILLOTE SAUCE— Fry together for five 
minutes slowly a slice of bacon scraped, two 
scraped onions and two cloves of garlic, and 
some minced mushrooms, then moisten with a 
quart of Madeira sauce, boil up, finish with 
chopped parsley, Used with cutlets of food 



that are first sauteed, cooled, dipped in sauce, 
then placed in cutlet papers and slowly broiled, 
such as salmon cutlets, mutton cutlets, part- 
ridge cutlets, halves of boned squabs, cutlets of 
veal. 

POULETTE SAUCE— Make a white sauce with 
strong chicken broth, then work in a liaison of 
egg yolks and cream; strain, finish with the 
juice of a lemon and some chopped parsley. 
Used with artichoke bottoms, blanquette of 
lamb fries and lamb sweetbreads, boudins of 
poultry, boiled capon, boiled chicken, boiled 
turkey, entree of calf or lamb tails, inch lengths 
of stewed cucumbers, eels that have been 
stewed with a little wine, lamb's feet simmered 
in white broth till tender, scallops of sweet- 
breads, scallops of veal, boiled calf's head, 
stewed pig's feet, stewed turtle fins, stewed 
breast of veal, lamb and mutton. 

PROVENCALE SAUCE— Four hard boiled egg 
yolks, four anchovies, a spoonful of capers, a 
little chopped tarragon, parsley, chervil, a 
clove of garlic, a seasoning of salt, pepper, a 
wine glass of olive oil and half of vinegar. 
Pound the whole, then rub through a tamis; 
finish with a little chopped parsley and lemon 
juice. Used with broiled eels, but mostly with 
fish salads. 

PROVENCALE SAUCE- Stew together for five 
minutes, four bruised cloves of garlic, some 
thyme, parsley stalks, spoonful of capers, bay 
leaf, and the pulp of a lemon with a little olive 
oil; then moisten with a ladle of espagnole, add 
a pinch of pepper and a piece of glaze. Let 
the whole simmer for a quarter of an hour, 
then rub through the tamis; finish with a little 
anchovy butter. Used with roast fillet of 
beef, calf's brains fried in batter, carp stewed 
in white wine, braised ducks, braised leg of 
mutton; braised cutlets of mutton, cooled, then 
spread with a stuffing on one side only, re- 
heated and served; braised boned ox cheek, 
salmis of partridge, scallops of sweetbreads, 
scallops of veal. 

PROVENCALE SAUCE— Into some espagnole 
work some minced fried mushrooms, onions, 
tomatoes and a clove of garlic. Used with 
braised beef. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce work 
a puree of parsley and tarragon leaves, some 
minced fried shallots and a little white vine- 
gar. Used with calf brains, ox piths fried in 
batter, roast partridge, skinned perch boiled in 
white wine, fillets of turbot, fillets of halibut 
and other white fleshed fish. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE— Into a mayonnaise work 
a puree of chives, chervil, parsley, tarragon 
and shallots. U.>ed with cold meat and meat 
salads. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE— Take a small teacup and 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



163 



put in a third each of tarragon vinegar, chili 
vinegar and Harvey sauce; pour the cupful 
thus obtained into a small sautoir and boil it 
down to half the quantity, then add half a pint 
of butter sauce and a ladlespoon of mixed 
chopped chives, chervil, parsley and tarragon. 
Used with boiled poultry and fillets of fish. 

REGENCY SAUCE— Braise some ham trim- 
mings, shallots and onions, then add equal 
quantities of chicken glaze, espagnole and to- 
mato sauces, boil slowly for twenty minutes 
then strain and use with braised meat, game 
and poultry. 

REGENCY SAUCE— Cut an eel of a pound 
weight into thin slices and boil gently with a 
pint of claret, adding cloves, mace, thyme, bay 
leaf, carrot, mushrooms, an onion and a little 
salt, for half an hour, then rub the whole 
through a tamis. Put the essence then into a 
sautoir and add a ladleful of espagnole; boil, 
skim, finish by working in some essence of 
truffles, anchovy butter, nutmeg, lemon juice 
and a knob of sugar. This sauce is admirably 
adapted for every sort of colored fleshed fish. 

RAIFORT SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce work 
some grated horseradish and a little white vin- 
egar. Used with fresh boiled beef, salt beef 
and fresh boiled ox tongues; also some like it 
with steaks. 

REMOULADE SAUCE— Pounded hard boiled 
yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve, mixed 
with olive oil, vinegar, dry mustard, minced 
garlic, chopped parsley and parsley juice. 
Used with frog legs, cold meat and meat salads. 

REFORM SAUCE — Another form or name of 
Poivrade sauce, (which see). 

RICHELIEU SAUCE — Into a white game sauce, 
work some minced fried onions and a little 
white wine. Used with game birds. 

ROE SAUCE — Into a butter sauce, work a puree 
of fish roes, using the soft roe or milt. Used 
with plain boiled fish. 

ROYAL SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce, work a 
puree of chicken and bread panada; finish with 
a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Used with 
boiled capon, boiled chicken, sweetbreads, 
boiled turkey, boiled pariridge, pheasant, 
cushion of veal. 

ROBERT SAUCE— Minced fried onions, dry 
mustard, a little meat glaze and white wine 
mixed into espagnole or other brown sauce. 
Used with roast pork, broiled or fried pork 
tenderloins, pork chops, and many entrees of 
pork. 

RUSSIAN SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce work 
some grated horseradish and vinegar, then 
work in a liaison of egg yolks and cream. . . (2) 
Into a Veloute sauce work some grated horse- 
radish, vinegar, sugar, white wine, then some 



lightly fried grated ham, minced shallots and 
garden herbs. Used with boiled beef and 
tongues. . . (3) Made mustard, tarragon vine- 
gar, salt, pepper, sugar, and grated horseradish 
stirred together. Used with cold meat. 

SAGE SAUCE — Good for roast pork and goose. 
Make a brown gravy in the pan with the resi- 
due of the roasting, add some chopped sage 
leaves, simmer for 15 minutes, then strain and 
skim. 

STE MENEHOULD SAUCE— Make a cream 
sauce and boil in it some minced onions till 
tender, strain, then add some chopped parsley 
and minced mushrooms, simmer for ten min- 
utes, skim, then use with boiled pigs' feet, 
boiled calf's head and feet, calf's brains and 
ears, salt pigs' head, ox piths and ox palates. 

SCALLOP SAUCE — Into a good butter sauce, 
work some cut cooked scallops and their 
strained and skimmed liquor. Used with plain 
boiled fish. 

SHALLOT SAUCE— Into a sauce made from 
the residue of roasting poultry, game or suck- 
ling pig, work some butter and minced shallots 
that have been stewed in sherry wine, and use 
with the meats mentioned. 

SICILIAN SAUCE— Take some veal stock and 
boil in it a ham knuckle, a head of celery, a 
clove of crushed garlic, the peel of a lemon, a 
few cloves and crushed coriander seeds with a 
bay leaf; reduce to one half, add a little roux 
and white wine, strain, skim, and use with 
roast or boiled poultry. 

SHRIMP SAUCE— Into a good butter sauce, 
work some cut shrimps, lemon juice, cayenne 
pepper and anchovy essence. Used with 
boiled fish, fish croquettes, and many fish 
entrees. 

SORREL SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce work a 
pur£e of sorrel. Used with boiled beef. 

SOUBISE SAUCE— Boiled onion pulp worked 
into a Supreme sauce. Used with boiled mut- 
ton . . . roast and braised black game and 
grouse . . . boudins of poultry . . . braised legs 
and necks of mutton . . . larded and braised 
pheasants and partridges . . . larded and roast 
neck of pork . . . larded and braised sweet- 
breads. 

SUPREME SAUCE— Make a rich Veloute sauce 
with reduced chicken liquor, then finish with 
pure cieam. Used with delicate entees such 
as boudins of breasts of chicken, lamb sweet- 
breads, and delicate white fleshed fish . . . 
sauteed fillets of chicken, garnished with scal- 
lops of tongue . . . boiled capon . . . boiled 
prairie hen . . . sweetbread and chicken pat- 
ties, and vol-au-vents. 

SULTANA SAUCE — Into a good game sauce, 
work some seedless raisins, simmer till tender, 



164 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



finish with port wine and use with roast game 
in general. 

TARTARE SAUCE — Into a mayonnaise sauce 
work some finely chopped parsley, gherkins, 
chives, capers and shallots. Used with breaded 
and fried fillets of chicken and capon . . . frog 
legs . . . sweetbreads . . . eels cut in finger 
lengths . . . broiled salmon steak . . . fried calf 
brains . . . fried tripe . . . fried butter fish. 

TOULOUSE SAUCE— One pint of Hollandaise 
sauce, half cup of white wine, half cup of 
minced mushrooms, little chicken glaze, mix 
together, then bring to the simmer, without 
breaking or curdling. Used with boiled and 
stewed poultry . . . sweetbreads. 

TOMATO SAUCE— Take equal quantities of 
good stock and tomatoes, a veal and a ham 
shank, a few herbs, sliced vegetables, and bay 
leaves; two or three cloves of garlic are option- 
al; boil all till vegetables are done, thicken with 
roux, strain, add a little sugar. Used with 
broiled steaks, chops, veal and pork chops i 
pork tenderloin . . . fried sweetbreads and lamb 
fries . . . broiled calf kidneys . . . fried chicken 
breaded or in batter . . . epigramme of sweet- 
breads . . . quenelles of turkey . . . grenadins 
of veal . . . fried or broiled tripe . . . ham- 
burger steaks . . . fried or broiled pigs' feet . . . 
fried ciscoes . . . codfish steaks . . . fried had- 
dock and halibut . . . filleted pike and muskal- 
longe . . . fried smelts . . . broiled weakfish, 
whitefish and trout . . . broiled and fried oys- 
ters . . . venison chops and steaks, etc. etc. 
and is used in conjunction with other sauces. 

TORTUE OR TURTLE SAUCE— Equal parts 
of tomato and espagnole sauces, into which 
work some sliced mushrooms, garden herbs 
and sherry wine, the grated rind and juice of a 
lemon, and a few minced shallots. Used with 
calf's head. 

TRIANON SAUCE— Equal parts of Bearnaise 
and reduced tomato sauces carefully blended 
together. Used with broiled steaks, sweet- 
breads, calf brains, etc. 

VELOUTE SAUCE— Into some strong chicken 
and veal broth boil a small piece of pickled 
pork, a small bunch of garden herbs, a few car- 
rots and onions, a little salt, sugar and pepper, 
simmer slowly till the pork and vegetables are 
done, then thicken with white roux; simmer 
gently, taking off the fat and scum as it rises 
till of a smooth velvet appearance; then strain 
through a hair sieve. It is used as a basis for 
other sauces. 

VENITIENNE SAUCE— Court-bouillon thick- 
ened with white roux, simmered and skimmed; 
add chopped parsley and lemon juice; finish 
with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Used 
with boiled fish. 

VERJUICE SAUCE — Boil some green grapes in 



espagnole till soft, then strain. Used with 
roast ducks. 

VERTE-PRE SAUCE— Into a Veloute or white 
ravigote sauce work a puree of chives, spinach 
and tarragon leaves. Used with boiled eels. 

VINAIGRETTE SAUCE— Minced shallots, 
chopped parsley, oil, vinegar and a little salt 
and cayenne carefully blended together and 
used with cold pigs' feet and pickled lamb 
tongues. 

YORKSHIRE SAUCE— Into some espagnole, 
work a little currant jelly, port wine, orange 
juice and finely shredded boiled orange peel. 
Used with roast ham. 

SAUERKRAUT — A preparation of cabbage (see 
cabbage). 

SCALLOPS— A broad flat shelled fish, white in 
color, with pink gills. Used in many ways as 
oysters; such as "sauteed ", "scalloped", "fried 
in batter", "breaded and fried", "baked and 
served on the half shell", "stewed" and in soup. 

SCRAPPLE— Generally termed "Philadelphia 
scrapple" is pigs' head brawn with corn meal 
boiled together, then set in blocks, afterwards 
cut in slices and fried for breakfast or supper. 

SEA KALE — A vegetable resembling in appear- 
ance a head of celery. It is cooked in lengths 
like asparagus, boiled and served with butter, 
Hollandaise or Espagnole sauces; also after be- 
ing boiled and cooled, is cut up and mixed 
with endive and lettuce and used as a salad with 
French dressing. 

SEMOLINA — Name given to a preparation of 
wheat like Farina. It is used in the making of 
puddings; as a soup and sauce thickening; also 
mixed with pressed bread in the preparation of 
sausages, as it takes up more fat and water. 

SHAD — Name of one of our best fish. To be 
broiled it should be split, back and rib bones 
removed, seasoned with olive oil, salt and pep- 
per, then placed between the wire hinged 
broiler, cooked over a medium fire, served with 
maitre d'hotel butter, and garnished with pars- 
ley and quartered lemon. 

PLANKED SHAD— The fish cleaned, split, 
bones removed, made fast to the plank, cooked 
under a salamander or in a quick oven; served 
on the plank, with maitre d'hotel butter. 

BAKED SHAD— Take a full sized shad, clean 
trim, score the sides, wipe dry, then season 
with salt; place them in a buttered pan and 
cover the fish with small pieces of butter; put 
in a medium oven and cook for fifteen minutes, 
then pour over the fish a small ladle of stock, 
some tabasco sauce and a cupful of cream; re- 
turn to oven and bake till nicely done; then lift 
the fish on to the serving platter, garnish with 
maitre d'hotel potatoes, pour the strained and 
skimmed sauce over the fish and serve. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



165 



BOILED SHAD— Clean, trim and score the 
sides of the fish, place on the drainer of fish 
kettle, cover the fish with boiling water, add a 
little salt, simmer till done (about thirty min- 
utes), lift, drain; serve with either caper or lob- 
ster sauce, and garnish with small boiled pota- 
toes. 

FRIED SHAD— Fillet the fish into serving por- 
tions, season with salt and pepper, dip into 
beaten eggs containing flour enough to make a 
soft batter, then fry a delicate golden color in 
deep fat; drain; serve with chips and lemon. 

BAKED STUFFED SHAD— Scale and trim the 
fish, split down the belly and withdraw the 
bones; season with salt and pepper; stuff with 
forcemeat made of a pound of whitefish 
pounded in the mortar with half a pound of 
soaked and squeezed dry bread, quarter pound 
of butter, four yolks of raw eggs, juice of a 
lemon, chopped parsley, salt and pepper to 
taste. When stuffed, sew up the opening, 
score the sides, place in buttered pan, brush 
over with melted butter, bake till done; serve 
whole or in portions with maitre d'hotel sauce 
and a garnish of fancy potatoes. 

SHAD ROE — Keep the roes whole, lay them in 
cold water for an hour, trim, wipe dry; then 
season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, fry in 
lard; serve with chip potatoes, a slice of bacon, 
and quartered lemon . . . Also boiled and served 
with cream sauce and garnished with Hollan- 
daise potatoes . . . Breaded whole if small, or 
blanched, split, then breaded and fried; served 
with Parisienne potatoes, lemon and parsley. . . 
Broiled and served with bacon, garnished with 
Julienne potatoes and lemon . . . Made into cro- 
quettes and served with lobster sauce . . . Also 
blanched, mixed with Hollandaise sauce and 
scalloped. 

SHADDOCK— A dessert fruit from the West 
Indies (see grape fruit). 

SHALLOT — Name of a small onion, very mild 
in flavor. Used in the preparation of delicate 
sauces and soups. 

SHEEPSHEAD — Name of one of our seafish, so 
called on account of the shape of its mouth be- 
ing like that of a sheep; also its having two 
similar rows of teeth. It is boiled and served 
with caper sauce and garnished with Hollan- 
daise potatoes . . . Baked and served with pi- 
quante sauce, garnished with Parisienne pota- 
toes . . . Broiled and served with Venitienne 
butter, garnished with Saratoga chips . . . Sau- 
teed and served with brown Italian sauce, 
garnished with Duchesse potatoes . . . Braised 
and served with Creole sauce, garnished with 
small potato croquettes. 

SHERRY — Name of a Spanish wine. Used with 
dinner service, in making cobblers, jellies, 
sauces, etc. 



SHORTBREAD— A name given to a sort of cake, 
much used by the Scotch people. 

SHRIMP — Name of a thin shelled fish, used gen- 
erally after being boiled, trimmed and shelled; 
always to be had in cans. The Barataria shrimp 
in cans are as good as can be purchased. Made 
into salads, sauces, omelets, patties, bouche^s, 
croquettes, in the preparation of appetizers, etc. 

SMELT — Name of a small delicate fish which 
has the flavor of cucumbers. To be cooked is 
drawn from the gills, seasoned with salt, rolled 
in flour and sauteed with butter, or breaded 
and fried . . . Broiled; or run on skewers and 
broiled. 

SNIPE — A small game bird; may be roasted, 
broiled, fried, made into boudins, pies, galan- 
tines, salmis. 

SOLES — Name of a delicate flat fish. As there 
are few to be had in the United States the 
flounder and plaice is substituted. For recipes 
of cooking, see Flounder. 

SORREL — Name of a vegetable. Used in soups, 
sauces; served plain or mixed with spinach as a 
vegetable; pureed as spinach, and used as an 
accompaniment to veal, pork, fried sweet- 
breads, brains, etc. 

SOUFFLE — Name given to a very light pasty 
preparation of meats, or sweets; of the omelet 
order. 

SOUPS — See heading of any meat, etc., wanted; 
also "consommes". 

SPAGHETTI— An Italian solid paste like maca- 
roni. Used in every way like macaroni; for 
recipes of which, see "Macaroni". 

SPINACH — A vegetable good for the stomach, 
because not only its own properties are ab- 
sorbed but the life sustaining qualities of that 
with which it is prepared: for spinach from 
Greenwhich plain boiled and eaten as a greens 
may be all right; but to those who live at 
hotels, clubs, etc., it is prepared as a puree, 
richly endowed with cream, butter, gravies, 
etc., well seasoned with salt, pepper and NUT- 
MEG; and when used either as a vegetable, 
garniture, in an omelet, or as an accompani- 
ment to roast or boiled ham, it is good. 

SQUAB — Name given to a young pigeon. For 
recipes, see "Pigeon". 

SQUASH-- A vegetable of the melon order, 
peeled, cut in pieces, plain boiled or mashed, 
then served as a vegetable; cut in slices and 
baked or steamed, then the pulp removed, 
mashed and used instead of pumpkin for pies. 

SQUIRREL— Either the red, gray or black, may 
be practically used in all the ways of spring 
chickens; and are relished too. 

STILTON — Name of a prime English cheese 
(see "Cheese"). 



1 66 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



STRAWBERRIES — One of the choice table 
fruits eaten with cream and sugar; crushed and 
mixed into ices; made into tarts and pies, jel- 
lies, shortcakes, meringues, charlottes, etc. 
STURGEON— Name of a large fish that is sold 
skinned as catfish are. Used baked and served 
with Remoulade sauce . . . larded as a frican- 
deau and served with bacon and mushroom 
sauce . . . braised with herbs and vegetables 
and served with the strained and skimmed 
braise . . . broiled in steaks and served with 
piquante sauce . . . stuffed, baked and served 
with Bourgignotte sauce . . . boiled and served 
with Genevoise and Hollandaise sauces. 

STERLET — Name given to the young sturgeon. 

SUCCOTASH— Name given to a combination of 
cooked corn and lima beans. Used as a vege- 
table. 

SWEETBREADS— The name given to two suc- 
culent pieces of flesh of the calf, ox and sheep, 
that adhere to the throat and heart. Before 
using in the preparation of dishes, they must 
first be blanched, trimmed and skinned. 

SWEETBREADS WITH SPINACH— Lard the 
sweetbreads with seasoned strips of pork, ar- 
range them in a brasiere with bacon, herbs, 
vegetables and stock; when done, take out; 
serve on a bed of spinach puree, with the 
strained and skimmed braise poured over them. 

SCALLOPED SWEETBREADS— Sweetbreads 
and button mushrooms cut into dice, sauteed 
with butter, surplus butter then poured off, 
moistened with Veloute sauce, filled into scal- 
lop shells or dishes; sifted breadcrumbs and a 
little Parmesan cheese strewn on top; baked a 
delicate brown and served. 

FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREADS — Sweet- 
breads cut in even sized pieces; button mush- 
rooms sauteed, added to the sweetbreads; moist- 
ened with Veloute sauce, simmered; served 
within a fancy piped border of mashed potatoes. 

FRIED SWEETBREADS, COLBERT SAUCE 
— The sweetbreads split, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dipped in butter, then in beaten 
eggs and sifted BREAD crumbs, fried a deli- 
cate brown with butter; served on fancy toast 
with Colbert sauce. 

BRAISED SWEETBREADS WITH VEGE- 
TABLES— The sweetbreads larded, braised 
with herbs, vegetables and stock, taken up 
when done, the braise strained and skimmed; 
then used to moisten a macedoine or jardiniere 
of vegetables; served, the sweetbreads on fancy 
toast, the vegetables around. 

FRIED STUFFED SWEETBREADS— Split the 
sweetbreads, then spread it on both sides with 
a D'Uxelles sauce containing minced mush- 
rooms and onions, then double bread and fry; 
serve with a rich brown sauce containing 
sherry wine. 



CASSEROLE OF SWEETBREADS— Line the 
casserole with boiled rice, arrange the interior 
with lamb sweetbreads in fricassee, bake and 
serve in the casserole. 
CROUSTADES OF SWEETBREADS — Into 
the fancy croustade cases (now to be purchased 
by the dozen or barrel), serve the fricassee of 
sweetbreads above. 
BLANQUETTE OF SWEETBREADS — Slice 
the sweetbreads into even slices with corre- 
sponding slices of truffles, moisten with a su- 
preme sauce; served within a border of well 
cooked rice grains. 
EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS — Lard, 
braise and glaze one half of the quantity of 
sweetbreads required, the other half to be 
breaded and fried a golden color; place one of 
each against fancy toast; serve with tomato 
sauce. 
CURRY OF SWEETBREADS — Beef sweet- 
breads are as good as any for this. Take the 
breads, soak for two hours in warm water, boil 
till tender, clean and trim them, then press be- 
tween plates till cold; slice them and fry with 
butter a golden color; then fry sliced onions, 
add flour to form a roux, moisten with the 
strained and skimmed stock the sweeetbreads 
were boiled in, add curry powder to taste, sim- 
mer, skim; serve within a border of well boiled 
grains of rice. 
SWEETBREADS WITH KIDNEYS — Take 
large veal sweetbreads, blanch, cool, press and 
trim them, then lard them with strips of truffles. 
Beat to a froth .he whites of three eggs, into 
it then mix some finely chopped pistachio nuts; 
roll the truffled sweetbreads in the egg, then in- 
sert in buttered paper cases, bake till of a nice 
color, remove the paper, place the sweetbread 
on a circle of buttered toast, then flank it with 
broiled lamb or sheep kidneys, and serve with 
port wine sauce. 
MEDALLIONS OF SWEETBREAD — Take 
smooth skinned tomatoes, cut them in halves, 
place cut side down in baking pan and dry them 
down in a medium oven; then place a slice of 
sweetbread in each half, put the two halves to- 
gether, pin them with a toothpick, then bread 
and fry them, drain, remove the pick; serve on 
circles of toast and Supreme sauce. 
LARDED SWEETBREADS, TOULOUSE 
GARNISH— Take veal sweetbreads, lard them 
with seasoned strips of bacon, braise till done 
and glazy with herbs, vegetables and stock; 
serve on circles of toast with Toulouse garnish 
around, (see Garnishes). 
CROQUETTES OF SWEETBREADS — Take 
the trimmings of sweetbreads and some boiled 
sweetbreads from the ox, cut them up very fine, 
adding some minced mushrooms and shallots, 
then boil them down thick with Veloute sauce, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



167 



(a little chopped parsley may be added if de- 
sired) turn out into a buttered pan, smooth, 
cover with a sheet of buttered paper and set 
away to get thoroughly cold; then make up into 
croquettes, or form into small cutlets, bread, 
fry and serve with a white Italian sauce, or 
garnish with peas in a Veloute sauce, or with 
some flageolet beans in a Madeira sauce. . . 
KROMESKIES OF SWEETBREADS are 
made of the croquette mixture shaped like a 
core, then rolled round with thin slices of boiled 
bacon, dipped in batter and fried. . . RIS- 
SOLES OF SWEETBREADS are made from 
the croquette mixture shaped like a finger, then 
enclosed with a thin piece of pie paste and fried. 

BROILED SWEETBREADS — Prepare and 
trim the sweetbreads, then season with salt and 
pepper, ron in melted butter, then in flour, and 
broil a delicate brown; serve on toast with or 
without a strip of bacon and some maitre d'ho- 
tel sauce. 

ROAST SWEETBREADS — Prepare and trim 
veal sweetbreads, season with salt and pepper, 
roll in melted butter, then in flour, place in a 
buttered baking pan, roast gently till of a deli- 
cate color, then serve on a circle of buttered 
toast with Supreme or Madeira sauces. 

PATTIES OF SWEETBREADS— Take the pre- 
pared veal sweetbreads and cut them into small 
dice, adding a small quantity of iced and fried 
button mushrooms, moisten them with either 
Veloute, Italian or Madeira sauces, simmer, 
then fill into patty cases . . .VOL-AU-VENTS 
are the same thing but much larger. . . BOU- 
CHEES are the same thing but smaller than 
the patty case. 

SALPICON OF SWEETBREADS— Take the 
prepared veal sweetbreads and cut them into 
medium-sized dice, adding also the tops of small 
button mushrooms, small diced pieces of cooked 
red tongue, and some small diced truffles; 
moisten the whole with a white Italian sauce, 
simmer, then serve in fancy cases. 

BROCHETTE OF SWEETBREADS — Take 
the prepared veal sweetbreads and slice them 
into squares or circles with an equal number 
of slices of parboiled bacon, run them on a 
skewer alternately, with a button mushroom; 
seasonwith salt, pepper and the juice of a lemon, 
then dip in beaten eggs, then roll in sifted 
breadcrumbs, and fry a delicate brown in but- 
ter; serve with Italian sauce. 

FRIED SWEETBREADS— Take the prepared 
veal sweetbreads and cut them into slices, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, roll in flour, then fry 
a delicate brown with butter; take up and 
moisten with a little Madeira sauce, just enough 
to keep them hot in the bain-marie; place within 
a border of veal forcemeat piped on the dish 



with a bag and tube, then pour Perigueux sauce 
over the sweetbreads and serve. 

SCRAMBLED SWEETBREADS WITH EGGS 
— Take all the trimmings of the sweetbreads 
which may have accumulated from the two or 
three previous days, cut them into small neat 
pieces, then scramble them with eggs, after- 
ward moistening them with white Italian sauce; 
serve on buttered toast. 

SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN BUTTER— 
Slices of the prepared veal sweetbreads fried 
a golden brown with plenty of good butter; 
taken up and laid on toast, the butter then 
frothed up and seasoned with lemon juice, or 
tarragon vinegar, browned well, and poured 
over the sweetbreads. 

SWEETBREAD SOUP- -Mince some ham and 
onions, blanch and slice some sweetbreads, add 
a bunch of herbs and saut6 the whole gently 
with butter for an hour, add flour to form a 
paste, then rub the whole through the tamis, 
make hot again and bring to the soup consist- 
ency with a combined veal and chicken broth, 
season with salt, white pepper, a little sugar; 
serve with croutons. 

TAPIOCA— A form of starch obtained from the 
root of a plant; used in the making of puddings 
and jellies; also in soups and custards. 

TARRAGON— An aromatic herb; used in soups, 
sauces, and as a flavoring to vinegar. 

TARTARIC ACID — A powder obtained from 
cream of tartar; used in conjunction with it to 
form baking powder. 

TEAL — Name of the duck next best to the can- 
vas back; delicious when broiled, roasted or in a 
salmis. 

TERRAPIN— Name of the most costly of the tor- 
toise family, having to be purchased by the inch, 
the diamond back being the best. To kill it, 
plunge into boiling water and let it remain 
there with the lid on for fifteen minutes, then 
take it out and peel the skin off the back and re- 
move the nails from the claws; remove the un- 
der shell by cutting with a sharp knife where it 
joins the upper one, then remove the sand bag 
and gall bladder; save the blood, and remove 
all the meat and eggs; cut off the head and use 
it and the shell for soups; keep the meat, 
eggs and the green fat found at the shoulders in 
water till wanted for use. 

BAKED TERRAPIN— Take the terrapin meat, 
eggs and fat, put into the upper shell, moisten 
with a little Madeira sauce, add the juice of a 
lemon, season with salt, pepper, butter, a glass 
of Madeira wine; cover with a sheet of buttered 
paper, bake till done and serve in the shell. 

TERRAPIN, MARYLAND STYLE— Terrapin 
meat simmered in butter with the liquor ob- 
tained from the cutting up; flour added to form 
a roux, then moistened with boiling cream, till 



iG8 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



like a fricassee; seasoned with salt, pepper and 
mace; finish by adding the eggs, simmer, then 
add sherry wine. 
TOMATOES— One of the best of the vegetable 
fruits. Used in making pies, preserves, soups, 
sauces, salads, as a vegetable, baked and stuffed as 
a garnish; used as an accompaniment to steaks 
when broiled, as a pickle, and in the prepara- 
tion of piccalili, as an ingredient to chutney; 
and used by the cook in more ways than any 
other fruit vegetable known. 
TRIFLE — Name given to a combination of sponge 
cake, sherry wine, preserves, custard, and whip- 
ped cream. 
TRIPE — The first stomach of the ox. Used after 
being prepared by the butchers. It is easily di- 
gested, contains good nutrients. It may be 
broiled and served with melted butter . . . Fried 
either after breading, or dipping in fritter bat- 
ter and served with fried onions or with a puree 
of onions in either brown or white sauce . . . 
Stewed plain with onions in white sauce . . . 
Stewed with tomatoes, a clove of garlic, red 
peppers, olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, sliced 
onions and meat gravy. This is called ' 'in CRE- 
OLE style" . . . Stewed in Espagnole sauce with 
an addition of fried onions . . . Stewed down 
rich in tomato sauce . . . Stewed in a sauce 
Poulette and served with toast . . . Baked in a 
rich white onion sauce . . . Grilled and served 
with tartar sauce . . . Curried and served with 
fancy croutons . . . Made into a fricassee by 
stewing in a sauce Veloute . . . Laid out in 
lengths, the inside spread with sausage meat, 
rolled up into cannelons, baked and basted with 
tomato sauce; served with some of the sauce 
and garnished with sausage balls . . . Sauteed 
and served with Bordelaise sauce . . . Sim- 
mered down till nearly dry with a little white 
broth, chopped parsley, and strips of lean ham, 
then moistened with a sauce Toulouse, finished 
with a few gherkins finely minced. 
TROUT — One of the most delicate flavored fish, 
LAKE TROUT, SALMON TROUT and the 
BROOK TROUT. The delicate brook trout 
is either broiled or fried, and served with a 
maitre d'hotel sauce . . . The lake and sal- 
mon trout may be cut in steaks and broiled; 
served with a Hollandaise sauce . . . Cut in 
steaks and fried, served with a slice of bacon; 
garnish with fancy potatoes . . . Boiled and 
served with Anchovy sauce . . . Baked and 
served with Italian sauce. 
BAKED SALMON TROUT— Scale and cleanse 
the fish, score the sides where the portion is to 
be cut, rub the scores with mixed salt, pepper 
and ground herbs, lay in buttered pan, bake 
and baste with butter and court bouillon; when 
done, lift off gently on to the steam table; serve 
in portions with either Genevoise or Espagnole 
sauces, garnish with small potato croquettes. 



SALMON TROUT SAUTE— Cut the fish into 
steaks, season with salt and pepper. Fry some 
slices of bacon a delicate brown, then roll the 
fish in flour and fry in the bacon fat till of a 
golden brown; take up, add flour to the pan, 
stir, moisten with boiling fish broth, add the 
juice of a lemon, and a little tomato catchup, 
strain over the fish in a clean sautoir, simmer 
for a few minutes, then serve with some of the 
sauce and a strip of the bacon on the top. 
BAKED STUFFED TROUT— Take the lake 
trout, trim and scale it, stuff with a fish force- 
meat, sew up the belly, score the sides in por- 
tion cuts, season with salt and pepper, brush 
with butter, dredge with flour, place in a but- 
tered pan, bake and baste till done; serve with 
an anchovied Espagnole sauce, garnish with 
Duchesse potatoes. 
BROILED SALMON TROUT— Take the whole 
sides freed from bones, moisten with olive oil, 
season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, 
broil well done over a clear fire; serve in por- 
tions with maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with 
Parisenne potatoes, lemon and parsley. 
SALMON TROUT BAKED WITH TOMA- 
TOES — Take the sides of fish freed from bones, 
season with salt and pepper, dust with paprika, 
dredge with flour, arrange in a buttered baking 
pan, cover with canned tomatoes, add a minced 
green pepper, bake and baste till done; serve 
with the tomatoes, and garnish with Victoria 
potatoes. 
FILLETED TROUT FRIED, WITH BACON— 
Take the sides of salmon trout freed from bone, 
cut them into portion pieces, season with salt 
and pepper, have ready some frying oil, very 
hot. Make a batter of beaten eggs and a very 
little flour, dip the fillets in the batter, fry in 
the oil; serve with a strip of bacon on the fish, 
garnish with Saratoga chips, lemon and parsley. 

TROUT STEAK, SAUCE TRIANON— Take 
the centre cut steaks of salmon trout, season 
with salt and pepper, moisten with olive oil, 
dredge with flour, broil over a clear fire, bast- 
ing with butter; serve with a sauce Trianon 
poured around. 

LAKE TROUT FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE— 
Scale and trim the trout, cut in steaks, season 
with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, fry in 
bacon fat to a golden color; serve with tomato 
sauce poured around. Or may be served with a 
strip of bacon, garnished with Reitz potatoes. 

BOILED TROUT, SHRIMP SAUCE— Lake or 
Salmon trout, scaled and trimmed, scored in 
portion cuts, placed on the drainer of fish ket- 
tle, covered with cold water containing a bunch 
of garden herbs, a little salt and vinegar, 
brought to the boil, skimmed, simmered till 
done, lifted up and drained; served with shrimp 
sauce, garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



169 



BAKED TROUT STEAKS— Take the lake trout, 
scale and trim, cut in steaks, arrange in but- 
tered pan, cover with Allemande sauce, bake 
gently till done; serve garnished with Villa- 
geoise potatoes. 

BRAISED TROUT, MATELOTE— Scale and 
trim the fish, score the sides in portion cuts, 
braise with bacon, herbs, and fish broth; when 
done, take up, strain and skim the braise, glaze 
the portions with it; serve garnished with a 
Matelote. 

BROOK TROUT WITH QUENELLES— Clean 
and trim the fish, stuff with a fish farce, ar- 
range in a well buttered pan, season with salt 
and pepper, add a few mixed herbs and a glass 
of white wine with a little fish broth; bake 
about fifteen minutes, well basting with the 
liquor; then take up, strain the residue into 
some Espagnole sauce, boil up and skim; then 
add sliced truffles and mushroom, some 
blanched oysters and a little lobster coral; serve 
with the oysters as a garnish and the sauce 
poured over. 

BROILED BROOK TROUT— Scale and trim 
the fish; draw it through the gills, then stuff it 
through the mouth with butter mixed with 
finely minced sweet herbs, slightly score the 
sides, season with salt and pepper, pass the 
fish through either melted butter or olive oil; 
broil gently without breaking the skin; serve 
with Poivrade sauce. 

TRUFFLES — Name of an aromatic tuber. On 
the European continent are served baked, 
boiled, gratinated, broiled, stewed in wine, 
etc. But on account of their very high 
price in this country, the cook uses them in 
sauces, forcemeats, omelets, salads and turkey 
stuffing. 

TUNNY "THON MARINE"— As it generally 
appears on the bill of fare, under the heading 
of hors d'ouevrs or appetizers, is the name of a 
fish of the appearance and flavor of Spanish 
mackerel. It is generally imported in tins, pre- 
pared in olive oil. 

TURKEY — One of the native American poultry 
birds found wild in Mexico. And the wild bird 
is as superior to the domestic one as the can- 
vas back duck is to the domestic duck. 

BROILED SPRING TURKEY— Plump young 
birds, singed, split down the back, breast and 
back bones removed, thigh bone snapped, the 
sides then cut in halves; season with salt and 
pepper, brush with butter or olive oil, broil a 
golden brown; serve on slices of buttered toast 
and garnish with two roast mushrooms on the 
bird, flanked with slices of tomatoes breaded 
and fried, a little maitre d'hotel butter sprink- 
led over the whole. 

STEWED SPRING TURKEY, SOUTHERN 
STYLE— Take young plump birds singed, 



drawn and washed, cut into joints, leaving the 
the leg and wing bone a little exposed. Place 
the pieces in a baking pan, season with chili 
pepper and salt, sprinkle with melted butter 
and roast slowly till brown; then take up into a 
sautoir, add flour, shake together, moisten with 
chicken or turkey stock, bring to the boil, skim, 
then add the grated rind and juice of an orange, 
simmer till the bird is tender. Take one pound 
of raw ham and one medium sized onion, cut 
in small squares, fry them lightly with plenty 
of butter in the sautoir, then add a pound cf 
well washed rice, moisten with half a gallon of 
chicken or turkey stock, place on the cover and 
let simmer till rice is well done. To serve: 
place the rice neatly on serving platter, the 
portion of bird on the rice with a croquette 
frill in it; or on the wing or leg bone; pour 
some of the gravy over the whole and flank the 
rice with small roasted potatoes. 

BOILED TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE— Take 

very large plump birds, singe, draw, wash, 
truss them with the legs forced well into the 
body, then boil them with a piece of salt pork, 
carrots, onions and celery, for about three 
hours; take up, and serve portions with plenty 
of oyster sauce poured over. A well made 
celery sauce is also very appropriate. 
ROAST SPRING TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE 
— Take young plump birds, singed, drawn, 
washed and trussed (not stuffed). Roast about 
an hour, well basting with butter. Serve in 
portions with a good brown oyster sauce, (see 
Sauces). 

ROAST TURKEY, STUFFED —Take plump 
young birds, singe, draw, wash, stuff with a 
mixture of white bread soaked and squeezed 
dry, seasoned with salt, pepper, mixed herbs, 
melted butter and yolks of eggs. Truss with 
the legs well into the body; season the bird with 
pepper and salt, roast for about two hours, wel 
basting during roasting; serve portions with the 
stuffing under the meat, and a dish of cranberry 
sauce or jelly separate . . . The turkey may 
also be stuffed with mashed sweet potatoes . . . 
Again with veal forcemeat containing a liberal 
quantity of peeled boiled chestnuts, then served 
with chestnut sauce; that is, with boiled chest- 
nuts peeled, rubbed through the tamis, and the 
puree thus obtained mixed into the turkey 
gravy . . . They may also be stuffed with an 
oyster dressing and served with a brown oyster 
sauce . . . They may also be stuffed with stewed 
truffles and served with Perigueux sauce, and 
garnished with quenelles of poultry . . . Also 
stuffed with pork sausage meat in which has 
been mixed some boiled and peeled chestnuts, 
and served with a Chipolata garnish, (see 
Garnishes) . . . Also stuffed with veal forcemeat 
and served with a Financiere garnish. In 



170 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



England the common way of the people is to 
stuff the turkey with ordinary dressing as given 
above, and to serve it with roast pork sausages, 
and a slice of boiled salt leg of pork, always 
handing round sticks of fine white celery. 

BOILED STUFFED TURKEY— Take young 
plump birds, singe, draw, wash, stuff with veal 
forcemeat; trussed with the legs well into the 
body; boil it till tender with a carrot, onion, 
celery, and a salted ox tongue; serve with a 
couple of slices of the tongue on the bird, the 
stuffing underneath, and a sauce made from the 
liquor it was boiled in poured around ... It 
may also be stuffed with grated breadcrumbs 
mixed with minced and boiled celery, raw eggs, 
salt, pepper and butter, and served with Hol- 
landaise sauce ... Or with egg sauce, Veloute 
sauce, parsley sauce . . . Also garnished with a 
slice of boiled ham and a spoonful of spinach 
puree. 

BONED TURKEY— This dish is always served 
cold, either plain or with aspic or in a galan- 
tine. It is a favorite with ball parties, and 
other luncheon or supper gatherings. Take 
two birds, one smaller than the other. Remove 
the head, feet and wings, then split the skin 
down the spinal column; remove the flesh with- 
out breaking through the skin, and leave the 
carcass with entrails entire. Lay the birds out 
on the table skin side down. On the larger on 
place a column of pork sausage or veal forcee 
meat down the breast centre; on that, lay a- 
column of cooked tongue, and on either side of 
it a smaller column of pickled belly of cooked 
pork. Season with salt, pepper and thyme. 
Remove the flesh from the skin of the smaller 
bird and place the white meat over the dark of 
the stuffed bird, and the dark over the white 
meat. Then draw the two sides together, sew 
it up into a good shape; then sew it into a cloth 
and boil till tender (about two hours). Take 
up and drain, then place it between two 
boards; put a weight on top and let become 
thoroughly cold; then remove the cloth, trim 
the bird, wipe clean with a hot wet cloth, glaze 
it and cut portions to order. If to place on a 
table whole, then decorate the glazing with 
fancy piped butter, and take off the first slice 
... It may also be roasted instead of being in 
a cloth and boiled ... To make a GALANTINE 
OF TURKEY, take the bird when the cloth is 
removed, have a galantine mold nicely decor- 
ated with aspic jelly and fancy forms of green 
peas, white and yolk of hard boiled egg, mace- 
doine of vegetables; then fill the mold with slices 
of the boned bird, placing the edges downwards 
(not one on top of the other), then fill up with 
limpid aspic jelly, allowing the jelly to get be- 
tween each slice of turkey, so that in serving 
there is no cutting to be done, simply remov- 
ing the slice with the jelly adhering. When 



serving, place at either end of the dish a small 
quantity of aspic and currant jelly. 
BLANQUETTE OF TURKEY— Slices of cold 
cooked turkey freed from skin, a can of good 
button mushrooms also sliced. Put the two 
into a rich Veloute sauce, bring to the simmer, 
skim, add juice of a lemon; served within a 
border of green peas, or grains of rice, or finely 
shred noodles. 
BRAISED TURKEY— Singe and truss the bird 
without stuffing as for roasting; then roast, 
quickly basting with butter to get on a nice 
brown color. Take up as soon as browned, 
and place it into a deep sautoir with a few 
slices of veal at the bottom; cover the bird with 
slices of fat bacon, then fill up with good white 
stock; add a bunch of sweet herbs, a little salt, 
then simmer till done; take up the bird, reduce 
the stock to half glaze, skim, strain and serve 
with the bird. Garnish with small potato cro- 
quettes. 
STUFFED YOUNG TURKEY LEGS— Cut off 
the leg and thigh, thus making four portions 
from each bird. You can stuff the other part 
of the bird and roast in the usual way, as 
everybody wants a slice of the breast . . . Re- 
move the bone from the leg cuts, season them 
with salt and pepper, then stuff the opening 
with a white forcemeat in which is incorpor- 
ated minced ham, truffles and mushrooms; roll 
them into shape, sew the ends, wrap each one 
in a piece of bacon, then boil gently in white 
stock till tender; take up and cool; then remove 
the sewing; meantime reduce the stock till of a 
sauce consistency; place the legs in again, to 
reheat, then take up and roll in fresh grated 
breadcrumbs; place in a buttered pan, sprinkle 
with butter, place in oven and get on a good 
color; serve on a bed of boiled rice with the 
sauce poured around. 
CREAMED COLLOPS OF TURKEY— Slices 
of cold cooked turkey freed from skin, cut into 
neat thin slices; then place into a Supreme 
sauce and simmer tor ten minutes; serve on a 
slice of toast, sprinkle the top with finely 
minced truffles and lean ham mixed together; 
garnish the sides with fancy croutons spread 
with foie-gras or liver paste. 
HASHED TURKEY WITH EGG— For this 
dish, buy a big old gobbler weighing twenty 
pounds or so, truss as for boiling, then steam it 
till tender; when cooled, remove the skin, and 
take off every particle of meat, cut it into very 
small dice, moisten it with Veloute sauce, bring 
it to the simmer; serve on buttered toast with 
a poached egg on top. 
TURKEY CROQUETTES— Take the preceding 
recipe, and when brought to the simmer, work 
in some well boiled rice, so as to thoroughly 
stiffen it; then pour into a buttered pan, cover 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



171 



with oiled paper and let become cold, then 
shape it into the shape desired; bread, fry and 
serve with a white Italian sauce. 

TURKEY PATTIES AND VOL-AU-VENTS— 
Take the cold white meat of cooked turkey, cut 
it into small dice, season with salt and nutmeg, 
then moisten it with a rich cream sauce (made 
with cream); fill into patty or vol-au-vent cases 
and serve. 

SALPICON OF TURKEY — Take cold cooked 
turkey freed from skin, three-fifths; lean cooked 
ham, one-fifth; truffles and mushrooms in equal 
parts to make the last fifth; cut the whole into 
neat small dice, moisten with a Supreme sauce, 
simmer for ten minutes, then serve in fancy 
paper cases. 

CROUSTADES OF TURKEY— Take the salpi- 
con of the preceding recipe and fill into fancy 
croustade cases and serve. 

FRICASSEE OF TURKEY WINGS— Take the 
middle joints of the wings, pick out all the dark 
feathers, trim the edges, singe them, boil them 
very slowly with a heart of celery, salt and a 
few blades of mace; when tender take up; make 
a good white sauce from the boiling liquor, 
skim and strain it over the wings in another sau- 
toir, then add some good button mushrooms cut 
into slices, bring all to the simmer and serve 
with a border of finely cut noodles. 

TURKEY SALADS AND SOUPS ARE MADE 
THE SAME AS THE RECIPES GIVEN 
WITH CHICKEN. 

TURNIPS — A nutritious vegetable both white 
and yellow; used plain boiled or boiled and 
mashed; cut into shapes and used as a garnish; 
or stewed in a cream sauce and used either as a 
garniture or as a vegetable; they are very use- 
ful in soups. The young green turnip tops 
also make a most excellent vegetable. Young 
white turnips of an even size may be peeled, 
the inside scooped out, steamed till done, then 
used as a receptacle for green peas, etc, and 
served as a vegetable, the parts scooped out be- 
ing used next day as a vegetable; also the tur- 
nip can be used for a nice entree by taking 
white turnips all of an even size, peel them, 
cut off a lid, scoop out the inside, fill the space 
with minced mutton (thus using up your mut-« 
ton trimmings), replace the lid, arrange in a 
shallow sautoir, moisten with white stock and 
simmer till tender; serve with a good gravy 
poured over them. 

TURTLE— To kill it, hang it up by the hind fins, 
cut off the head and let it bleed overnight into a 
bucket; then lay it on its back, cut off the fins, 
then the under shell, remove the entrails and 
gall; save the eggs and green fat, the white 
flesh, and the red meat, and the fins. The shell 
is then sawn into pieces and boiled with the 
head to make the stock for turtle soup; the 



green fat is served with the soups, the white 
and dark meat used for entrees and steaks, etc. 
The white meat may be used in all the ways 
given in the recipes for veal. The red meat in 
all the ways given for beef. The fins are gen- 
erally stewed in any of the ways applicable to 
fowl. 

GREEN TURTLE SOUP— Place in a large and 
deep sautoir half a pound of butter, three 
pounds of sliced raw ham, the meat from three 
shins of beef and three knuckles of veal, two old 
fowls, a dozen cloves, four blades of mace, a 
handful of parsley roots, a bouquet of parsley 
tied up with shallots, thyme, green onions and 
two bay leaves, a pint of Madeira wine and a 
gallon of good stock; boil this down sharply to 
a half glaze, then fill up with stock, adding the 
turtle head, fins, shell and the coarse meat, 
turnips, carrots, onions and a head of celery; 
simmer for six hours, then work in a roux to 
the consistency of thin sauce, boil and skim till 
smooth and velvety, then strain off into another 
sautoir. . . Make a puree of herbs by boiling 
together in a quart of consomme, one-third of 
sweet basil, and the other two-thirds of herbs 
to be used are equal quantities of savory, 
thyme and marjoram, a good handful of parsley, 
a small bunch each of spring onions and shal- 
lots, and some mushroom trimmings; boil for 
one hour, then rub all through the tamis; add 
the puree to the soup with a pint of Madeira 
wine; some of the turtle eggs, some forcemeat 
balls made from the white turtle meat, the 
cooked green fat cut in pieces, and the juice of 
one lemon to each gallon of soup. For CLEAR 
TURTLE SOUP, proceed and finish in the 
same way, but instead of adding a roux to the 
stock, let it cool and clarify it into a consomme. 
A good sherry wine may be used instead of 
Madeira. 

VANILLA — The fruit or pod of the vanilla plant; 
used as a flavoring to sauces, ices, puddings, 
blanc-manges, fritters, creams, liqueurs, souf- 
fles, eclairs, syrups, caramels, etc. 

VEAL ROLL WITH TONGUE— This is a de- 
lightful cold dish for luncheons, suppers, etc. 
Take a large breast of veal, bone it, then place 
in the brine tub for two days; prick it and 
punch the air out if it has been blown, remove 
from brine and wipe dry, then spread thick with 
a layer of seasoned pork sausage meat; on that 
place down the centre four cooked pickled pigs 
tongues, cover them with more of the sausage 
meat, draw the sides together and sew up with 
twine, then tie it in a cloth like a roly poly 
pudding; boil for two hours in white stock, take 
up and let cool in the cloth, then remove the 
cloth, wipe with a hot cloth, glaze and serve in 
slices. 

VEAL CUTLETS, GARNISHED— Take the rib 



172 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



chops, remove the chine bone and gristle, trim 
the bone so as to leave a handle for a frill to be 
placed on when serving, lard the flesh with 
strips of bacon, ham, tongue, truffle, or sweet- 
bread and truffle according to desire; then place 
in a brasiere on a bed of sliced root vegetables, 
parsley, spring onions, cloves, mace and whole 
peppers, cover with slices of fat bacon, moisten 
to the height of the cutlets with stock and a 
glass of sherry wine, braise till done (about an 
hour) then serve with a brown Italian sauce . . . 
mushroom sauce . . . Financiere, Toulouse or 
Perigueux garniture. These cutlets after being 
braised, may be cooled, trimmed, masked with 
sauce, then breadcrumbed and fried, and 
served with Allemande sauce containing scal- 
lops of tongue and button mushrooms ... Or 
with tomato sauce. 
VEAL CUTLETS SAUTEED— Take the rib 
chops and trim as in the preceding recipe. 
Season with salt and pepper, fry a delicate 
brown on both sides with clarified butter; when 
nearly done take up and in the butter fry some 
shallots, mushrooms and parsley, then add some 
Espagnole sauce, boil up and skim off the fat, 
add the cutlets and simmer till done; serve 
garnished with thin scallops of fried ham. 
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL WITH VEGETA- 
BLES — Take the leg of veal and remove the 
thick flank, lard it with seasoned strips of 
bacon, braise with carrot, celery, onions, pars- 
ley, green onions and slices of bacon with mace, 
cloves and peppers in the usual way, for about 
two and a half hours; when done, take up, 
strain, boil and skim the braise, add some 
sherry or Madeira wine; use it as a sauce to the 
fricandeau; serve garnished with any vegetable 
garnish or puree described in this work. It 
may also be garnished with either Chipolata, 
Financiere or Toulouse garniture. 
GRENADINS OF VEAL WITH SPINACH— 
After removing the thick flank for fricandeau 
from a leg of veal, you have the buttock and 
aitchbone left. Bone out the aitch on the leg; 
remove the marrow bone, split the buttock in 
the natural seam, then slice the two sections 
into cutlets or grenadins, lard and braise them; 
serve on a bed of puree of spinach . , . puree 
of celery . . . puree of green peas . . . puree of 
red haricot beans, etc. 
BLANQUETTE OF VEAL— Take cold roast 
or braised veal, remove the brown skin, and 
then cut into neat scallops, add some button 
mushrooms, or scallops of truffle or tongue, 
moisten the whole with Allemande sauce, sim- 
mer; serve garnished with small croquettes of 
rice ... or potatoes ... or veal forcemeat. 
SCALLOPS OF VEAL, ITALIAN SAUCE— For 
this dish use up the thick end of the loin, neck, 
aitchbone, or leg; cut them into neat shaped 



scallops; also about one-third of the amount 
similar cut scallops of raw ham; fry them all of a 
delicate brown color with clarified butter; then 
pour off the surplus, add some button mush- 
rooms, and brown Italian sauce, simmer till 
done; serve with the sauce, and garnish with 
the mushrooms . . . Or they may be served with 
either tomato or an Espagnole sauce and garn- 
ished with quenelles of veal forcemeat. 
EMINCE OF VEAL— For this dish use the shin 
taken from the shoulder, also the leg and the 
trimmings from the neck and scrag; boil it in 
seasoned stock till done, then allow to become 
cold; cut it up into small dice with some mush- 
rooms, ham, tongue and truffles, then moisten 
the whole with just enough Bechamel sauce to 
keep it together; serve heaped on a slice of 
toast; place a neatly poached and drained egg 
on top. 
CROQUETTES OF VEAL— Take the parts of 
the preceding recipe, but instead of cutting 
them all into dice, run them through the minc- 
ing machine, moisten with enough Veloute 
sauce, and stir over the fire till thoroughly 
heated and stiff; then pour into a buttered pan, 
smooth with a knife, cover with oiled paper, 
put away to become cold, then form into cro- 
quettes or cutlet shapes, bread, fry and serve 
with either mushroom, tomato, Italian or Peri- 
gueux sauces. 

VEAL AND OYSTER PIE— For this dish use 
the scrag end of the neck and the middle neck 
under the shoulder, boil in one piece in seas- 
oned white stock; when done, take up and cool, 
then cut into neat shaped pieces, place into the 
pie dish with a liberal quantity of scalded oys- 
ters, make a good white sauce from the stock 
and oyster liquor, season with salt and nutmeg, 
add a little chopped parsley; pour over the con- 
tents of the pie dish, cover with a good short 
paste, glaze with egg wash, bake and serve. 

ROAST LOIN OR NECK OF VEAL— Take the 
loin or neck of veal, allowing the tops to be 
long, remove the bones and gristle, season with 
salt and pepper, roll up and tie with twine, 
roast gently without drying the skin into 
strings; serve with Bechamel sauce and garnish 
with small potato croquettes. 

CROUSTADE OF VEAL— Take the blanquette 
of veal of a preceding recipe but cutting the 
meat into large dice, and serve in croustade 
cases. 

SALPICON OF VEAL— Take the eminceof veal 
of a preceding recipe and serve it in croustade 
cases, paper cases, or steamed and hollowed 
out white turnips. 

BOUDINS OF VEAL— TIMBALES OF VEAL 
— Take the remains of cold veal, trim off the 
skin, run it through the mincing machine with 
some cooked bacon and button mushrooms, 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



173 



then moisten with a very little sauce, thor- 
oughly stir over the fire till thick; butter some 
timbale or boudin molds, line them with 
browned bread crumbs, fill in the mince, steam 
them for about twenty minutes, then turn out 
and serve with mushroom, tomato, white Italian, 
brown Italian, Perigueux or Veloute sauces. 
They may also be garnished with finely shred 
noodles, green peas, macedoine or Jardiniere 
of vegetables, button mushrooms, etc. 

BROILED VEAL CHOPS— Use either the loin 
or rib chops, trim, season with salt, pepper and 
nutmeg, brush with butter, broil and baste to a 
golden color; serve with maitre d'hotel, Col- 
bert, tomato, or Madeira sauces. 

CURRY OF VEAL— For this dish use up the 
breasts, cut them into even sized pieces, remov- 
ing the thick bones, season with salt and pep- 
per, fry a very light color with clarified butter; 
take up and into the butter then fry a liberal 
amount of thinly sliced onions, add flour to form 
a roux, then the curry powder to taste, bring 
to the boil and skim; simmer for half an hour 
till the onions are well cooked, then rub through 
the tamis on to the pieces of breast; simmer 
then till the meat is done; serve within a border 
of rice, rissoto, macaroni, spaghetti or noodles. 

GALANTINE OF VEAL— Take a large breast 
of veal and remove the bones, prick it and punch 
out the air if it has been blown, season with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and a little powdered 
thyme all mixed together, then spread it with a 
layer of veal forcemeat; on it lay a thinly beaten 
out and skinned sheet of pigs flare, down the 
centre place a column of red cooked tongue, on 
either side of it a smaller column of cooked 
boiled salt pork, then sprinkle over a mixture of 
chopped whites and yolks of eggs with minced 
pickled gherkins, cover with another layer of 
veal forcemeat, draw the sides together and 
sew into a neat roll with twine, then tie in a 
cloth and boil in white stock for two and a half 
hours, take up and press till cold in the cloth 
between two boards, then remove the cloth, 
wipe clean, glaze; serve in slices with croutons 
of bright aspic jelly. 

STEWED BREAST OF VEAL— Take the breast 
of veal and boil it whole till tender enough to 
take out the bones, then let become cold, cut 
into even sized pieces and stew it in a sauce 
made from the liquor it was boiled in; serve 
with a garnish of green peas, lima beans, chip- 
olata garniture, glazed carrots, mushrooms, 
forcemeat balls, fried oysters, cauliflower, small 
white turnips, rice, mushrooms. 

VENISON— The flesh of the deer. The leg and 
saddle are usually roasted. To roast the leg, 



season it with salt and pepper, brush it all over 
with melted butter, then enclose it with a crust 
made of plain flour and water, bake it about an 
hour, then take up and remove the crust, place 
it in another baking pan on a stand, pour in a 
melted mixture of a half pint each of melted 
butter, red currant jelly, and boiling water; 
with the residue of the first pan it was baked 
in, if any, finish roasting and basting till done; 
serve with the gravy from the pan . . . The sad- 
dle or double loin, is generally encased with 
buttered paper instead of the crust . . . The rib 
and loin chops, are generally broiled and served 
with a jelly, piquant, Colbert, poivrade, finan- 
cier, Portugaise or Bigarade sauces, or fried, 
or sauteed and served with the same sauces or 
with a chestnut puree . . .The scrag and breasts 
are generally formed into a stew or a "CIVET 
OF VENISON." Made the same way as jugged 
hare (which see). . . The shoulder or the whole 
forequarter may be roasted and served with 
poivrade sauce, and red currant jelly sent to 
table separately. The cold cooked parts left 
over may be made into croquettes and cutlets 
and served with a game sauce made from the 
bones stewed down with herbs, and a little jelly 
and Madeira wine. The rougher parts may 
also be made into pies, and the cutlets made 
into a good VENISON PIE or patties or vol- 
au-vents. A good soup is made from the shanks, 
shins and head, boiled down rich, finished with 
a little Espagnole sauce, Madeira wine, lemon, 
cayenne pepper; served with game forcemeat 
balls and croutons. 

VERMICELLI— A fine form of Italian paste 
used in most of the ways applicable to maca- 
roni and spaghetti (which see). 

VERMOUTH— A form of liquor cordial; used in 
making mixed drinks especially. 

VINEGAR — A distilled acid liquor of the wine 
formation; used as a flavoring and a condiment. 

VOL-AU-VENT— A small hollow form of puff 
pastry, used as a receptacle to viands. 

WAFFLES — A form of batter cake pastry baked 
in waffle irons and eaten generally with powd- 
ered sugar or syrup. 

WALNUT— A hard shelled nut, the interior of 
which is used for dessert, candies, etc. When 
plucked green they are used as a pickle after 
going through the pickling process. 

WHITEFISH — A delicious fish obtained in our 
lakes. It may be cooked and served in all the 
ways applicable to our lake trout. 

WOODCOCK — A delicious game bird; cooked 
and served in all the ways of small game birds de- 
scribed in this work. 



INDEX TO THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 



Page 

Absinthe 1 & 65 

Acetic acid 1 

Acid, acetic 1 

oltrlo E8 

tartaric 167 

Admiral garnish 85 

Admiral sauce 155 

Aerated waters i 

Af ricaine (garnish) 86 

Aigrettes, anchovy I 

Albert sauce 155 

Albumen 1 

Alcohol... 1 

Algerienne omelet 11? 

Alkermea 65 

Allemaude garnish 85 

Allemande sauce 155 

Alligator pear 1 

" salad 150 

Allspice 1 

Almonds 1 

deviled 1 

salted l 

Almond sauce 155 

Alum 1 

Alumettes, anchovy 1 

Anchovies 1 

bo lichee of 21 

with olives 2 

potted 2 

Anchovy aigrettes 1 

alumettes 1 

baskets 2 

butter 2& 26 

canapes 1&35 

" Berne 2 

catsup 2 

cream 2 

croutons 2 

fritters 1 & 2 

omelet 2 

paste 2 

salad 2&150 

sandwich 

sauce 2 & 155 

stuffing 2 

tartlnes 1 

toast 1 

Andalouse (garnish) 

Andaluslan eauca 15f> 

Angel food 

Angelica 2 

Anglalse (garnish) , 

Aniline 2 

Anise 2 

Aniseed. extract of 

Antelope 2 

Apple bavaroise 

butter 2 

cake 2 

charlotte 3 

cheesecakes 3 

chutney 3 

cobbler 4 

compote 3 

cream 3 

croquettes 3 

custard 3 

" fritters 8 

" pie 3 

dumplings 3 

float S 

Florentine 4 

fritters 3 & 83 

Ice 

Johnny cake 

marmalade 

meringue 

pancakes 

pie 

pudding 8 

puffs 

roly poly 3 

shortcake 3 

soup 3 

tart • 

timbale 4 

Apples 2 

baked 2 

fried 3 

glazed t 

Portugese style 3 

Apricot bavaroise 4 

cobbler 4 

compote 4 

charlotte 4 

chartreuse 4 

fritters 4 & 83 

jelly 97 

marmalade or jam 4 



Page 

Apricot omelet 4 

patties or vol- an- vents 4 

sauce 4 & 155 

sherbet 4 

tartlettes 4 

Apricots d'artols 4 

Incases 4 

a la Colbert 4 

a la conde 4 

au crouton 4 

with rice 4 

and rice fritters 4 

on toast 4 

Artichoke bottoms braised 4 

" with fole gras.... 5 

" with forcemeat.. 4 

" with onions 5 

" with ragout 8 

" stuffed. 5 

Artichoke chips 5 

fritters 5 

omelet 6 

and onion salad 5 

salad 150 

soup 5 

and tomato salad 6 

Artiohokes 4 

a la Barigoule 5 

boiled 6 

with egg — 5 

family style 5 

au gratin 5 

a la Ijjnnnaise 5 

pu ree of 145 

scalloped 5 

a la Soubise 5 

Asparagus 5& 6 

and cauliflower salad 6 

with cheese 6 

omelet 6 

patties 6 

points with quenelles 6 

puree 6 

puree of 145 

salad 6 & 150 

and salmon salad 6 

sauce Hollandaise 6 

soup (i 

stewed 5 

aspic 6 

jelly 6 

mayonnaise 107 

Atelette 6 

Attereaux 

Au jus 86 

Aurora sauce 155 

Aurore (garnish) 85 

Avignon sauco 15P 

Baba 6 

Bacon 

coated oysters, fried 122 

Bagration 
Bain- marie 

Baking powder 6 

Hallo tine 

Bananas 6 

baked 7 

compote 7 

fried 
fritters 
ice cream 
salad 
Daraqullle 

Barbecue J 

Barley 

Baron of beef 
Basil 

Bass 7 

baked 7 

boiled 7 

braised 8 

broiled 7 

alaChambord 8 

a la Conde 8 

croquettes 8 

fried 7 

a la Meunlere 8 

saute 8 

Batter 8 

for buckwheat cakes 8 

for corn griddle cakes 8 

for flannel griddle cakes 8 

for French pa ncakes 8 

for frying sweet foods & fruits 

for f ry i ng vegetables 

for graham griddle cakes 8 

for rice griddle cakes 8 

for Swiss pancakes 8 

for wheat griddle cakes 8 

for Yorkshire pudding 8 



Page 

Bavarian cream . ?u 

sausage 137 

sauce 165 

Bayard (garnish) 86 

Bay leaves 8 

Beans 8 

Bean puree with onions 9 

salad U0 

B3arnaise sauce 17 & 155 

Bechamel sauce 17 & 70 & 155 

Beef 10 

baron of 7 

boiled 10 

" corned 10 

bouillon with crusts 13 

Beef, braised, a V Allemande 11 

'• a la Baden-Baden.. . . 11 

" a la Bignonne 12 

" a la Bourgeoise 11 

" a la Financiere ll 

" a la Flamande 11 

" a la Uodard 11 

" a la Milanaise 11 

" a la Napolltaine 12 

" a l'Orslnl 11 

" a la Piemontalse 11 

" a la Provencale 12 

" a la Richelieu 11 

" German style 11 

" with raviolis 11 

Beef, braised sirloin of, garnished... 11 
" " withhorsernd 12 
" " "withmushrms 11 
" " with quenelles 11 
" " " with rice cro- 
quettes 11 

" " with sp. veg'ls 11 
" " with stuffed 

potatoes.. . 12 
" " with stuffed 

tomatoeB . . 12 
" " " with truffles.. 11 

Beef, brisket of, with vegeta bles 10 

broth with celery 13 

" with rice 13 

cakes with egg 11 

chipped in cream 10 

collops with mushrooms 13 

corned 10 

croquettes with peas 13 

curried with rice 14 

cutlets with piquante sauce 14 

devilled with oysters 14 

dried (smoked) 10 

emince of, with peas 15 

Beef, fillet of, a l'Andalouse 12 

" " a la Bayard 12 

" " a la Chateaubriand .. 15 

" " a la Jardiniere 1* 

" " sauce provencale 13 

" " with striDg beans 13 

" " a la Talleyrand 12 

Beef, flank of English style 11 

Beef , frizzled, on toast 10 

Beef, glazed ribs of, with macaroni.. 11 
" " " with potato cro- 
quettes 11 

" '' " with vegetables 11 

Beef hash corned 15 

" roast 14 

Beef heart, boiled, with horseradish 16 

" roast, stuffed 16 

Beef kidney saute 16 

soup 16 

Beef, minced, with egg 14 

mlrotonof, with vegetables 15 

a la mode 10 

patties with mushrooms 14 

pauplettes, mushroom sauce... 14 

pickling 130 

pot pie 14 

potted, for sand wlches 15 

ragout of, Creole sauce 16 

rissDles 14 

rissolettes 14 

roast 10 

(Salisbury steak) 13 

sausages 16 & 138 

saute of, truffle sauce 15 

scalloped with oysters 14 

scallops of. sauce Trianon 15 

scrambled with eggs 10 

shortribs 10 

Beef, small fillets of, maitre d'hotel. 15 
" " " with oysters... 15 

Beef sandwiches, smoked 10 

Beef, smoked, with spinach 10 

Beef soup, English and Scotch 13 

Beef, spiced 15 

" jellied 15 



Page 

Beef steak and kidney pie 14 

" and mushroom pie 14 

" and oyster pie 14 

Beef stew, German style 10 

Beef tongue, smoked, with spinach.. 15 
Veef tenderloin with blood gravy — 16 

" with artichokes 12 

" with oepes 1J 

" with custards 12 

" a la julienne 12 

" a la macedoine 12 

" with mushrooms 19 

" a la Nlvernalse 12 

" a la Parislenne ... . 12 

" a la Prlntanlere .. . 12 

" with stuffed peppers 12 

" with vegetables 12 

Beef tenderloin steak, sc. Bearnalse. 12 
" '• bordelalse — 12 

" '• Parls.potatoes 12 

" " so.iPerigueux. 13 

" " saute, peppers 13 

Beef tongue, braised, with tomatoes 15 
" corned with spiDacb... 16 

Be»f , tournedos of, with olivos 15 

Beet and egg salad 17 & 150 

greens ' . . 16 

and potato salad 17 

Beets : 16 

boiled in butter sauce 16 

for garnishing 10 

pickled 16 

Beetroot and potato salad 150 

Bell fritters 57 

Benedictine 17 & 6i> 

Berlin pancakes 73 

Bermuda onions, pureo of U6 

Bey rou t sauce 156 

Bigarade sauce 150 

Biscuits, cheese 43 

Bisque 1~ 

of crabs 17 & P9 

of " Creole style 69 

of crayfish 17 

of herring 17 

of jack rabbit 17 

of lobster 17 & 103 

of oysters 17 

of partridge 17 

of plovers 17 

of prawns (or shrimps 17 

of salmon 17 

of terrapin 17 

Bitter almond, extract of 81 

Black beans with rissoto 9 

Blackberries 18 

with cream 18 

charlotte 18 

compote 18 

jam 18 

jelly 97 

pie 18 

pudding 18 

shortcake 18 

tartlets 18 

Blaokblrds 18 

broiled on skewers 18 

compote of 18 

pie 18 

In potatoes 18 

salmis of 18 

Blackcock i9 

" broiled, with jolly 19 

Blackdiver 19 

Blackflsh 18 

baked, oyster sauce 19 

boiled, Italian sauce 19 

broiled, with parsley 18 

fried, with bacon 18 

saute with fine herbs 19 

Black game, roast, bread sauce 19 

Black grouse, braised 19 

Black pudding 19 

Blancmange 

" chocolate 56 

" corn 6ti 

Blanch or blanohed 1 

Blanquette It- 
Bladders (pigs) 131 

Bloaters 19 

toasted 19 

Blood (pigs) 

sausage 

(Fre -h) 

" (KTon i Germany!. 

Bluefisb 

baked, In crumbs 

" matelote sauce 

" with fine herbs 

" with tomatoes .... 



Page 

Bluefisb, boiled, shrimp sauce 20 

broiled, with anchovy butter .. 20 

saute, admiral sauce 20 

with anchovies 20 

steaks, Italian sauce IS 

stuffed 11 llets of 20 

" and baked 19 

Boars head, glazed 133 

Bohemian sauce 156 

Bohemienne (garnish) 86 

Bologna sausage 138 

•' (Italian) 139 

Boned turkey 170 

Bones (pigs) 131 

Bordelaise (garnish) 86 

sauce, brown and white 150 

Boston stew (oyster) 121 

Box stew (oyster) 121 

Bouohee 20 & 167 

of anchovies 21 

of chicken 20 

of crayfish tails 2i 

of f oie-gras 20 

of game 20 

with game puree 20 

of lobsters 20 & 102 

with marrow 20 

with mushrooms 21 

of oranges 21 

of oysters 2 j 

with ox palates 21 

of peaches 21 

ofplums 2i 

with ragout 20 

of reed bird 21 

a la Heine 20 

a la St. Hubert 20 

of salmon 21 

with salpicon 2* 

of sardines 21 

a la Seville 21 

of sole 21 

of sweetbreads 20 

of woodcock 21 

Boudin 21 

blanc 21 

of fowl 21 

of hare 21 

de lapin 21 

de lievre 21 

noir 19 & 21 

of rabbit 21 

of veal 21 

de veau 21 

Bouergoise (garnish) 86 

sauce 156 

Boulettes of game 21 

Bouillabaisse 21 

Bouillon, beef, with crusts 13 

Bourgignotte or bourglgnonne(garn) 86 

Bourgignotte sauce 156 

Brain cakes with bacon 24 

croquette* with peas 24 

cutlets, Vlllerol sauce 24 

f oroemeat 24 

kromeskies, Madiera sauce 25 

patties or vol an vents 25 

pigs 131 

Brains ...23 

braised, with mushrooms 24 

" sauce Remoulade 24 

" with stuffed tomatoes. 24 

broiled, with parsley butter 25 

creamed, with kidney beans 24 

croustades of, with artichokes. 24 

fried, breaded, Tartar sauce 24 

" with brown butter 24 

and mushrooms i n cases 24 

with rice, Turkish style 24 

roast, with forcemeat balls 24 

in sauce Poulette with rice 24 

scalloped, in shell 24 

scrambled 23 

with sorrel, sauce Ravlgote 24 

Braise and braising 25 

Krandied cherries 4 

Braudy 23 

sauce 23 

Bread 23 

white versus brown 23 

Bressoise sauce 156 

Bretonne (garnish) 

sauce, cold and hot 156 

Brie 23 

Brine 23 

for ham. pickles, etc 131 

Brioche fritters 73 

Brochette 21 

of calf's brains 22 

of chicken livers 22 



175 

Page 

Brochette of duck livers 22 

of crayfish talis 23 

of eels 22 

of geese livers 22 

of lamb fries 23 

of lamb kidneys 21 

of lobster 22 

of mussels S2 

of mutton 22 

of ortolans 120 

of oysters 21 & 122 

ofreedbirds 23 

of pigs' kidneys 22 

of rabbit 22 

of scallops 23 

of smelts 2 5 

of spring lamb 22 

of sweetbreads.. 22 

ofturkey 23 

of turkey livers 22 

of veal 22 

Brook tiout with quenelles 169 

" broiled 109 

Broth, beef, with celery 13 

chioken. with artichokes 56 

" with asparagus tips... 66 

" with custards 55 

•' wlthonlons 66 

" with peached egg 16 

•' with rice 55 

" with sorrel 16 

" with spring vegetables 56 

clam (8 

Brunoise 25 

Brunswick, cervelat sausage 139 

Brussels sprouts 25 

" boiled 25 

" in cream 25 

" with parsley butter. 25 

" puraeof 25 

" sautees 25 

Buck 25 

Buckwheat 25 

cakes 8 

Bulsson 25 

Burbot 78 

Butter 25 

adulterations 26 

anchovy 2 & 26 

apple 2 

cakes 25 

crayfish 26 

drawn 26 

garlic 26 

horseradish 26 & 96 

lobster 26 

maltre d'hotel 26 

montpeller 46 

peach 127 

pepper 26 

plum 134 

ravigote 26 

shrimp 26 

Butterball duok 26 

Butterlne or margarine 26 

Button onion soup with peas 119 

Cabbage 26 

baked, with cheese 27 

" with ham 26 

boiled 26 

" German style 27 

braised 27 

creamed 26 

with eggs 27 

fried, with bacon 27 

an gratln 27 

paupiettos of 27 

pickled 27 

salad 27 & 150 

stewed 26 

stuffed 26 

timbales 27 

Cafe 27 

Cailies 28 

Cake, apple 2 

chocolate 57 

citron 58 

plum 135 

Cakes, batter 8 

beef, with egg 14 

brain, with bacon 24 

butter 25 

codfish 61 

orab 67 

flannel 82 

green corn batter 67 

hoe 96 

sausage, with potatoes 16 

Calf 28 

Calf's brains, brochette of 22 



176 C 

Page 

Calf's brains, parsley sauce 26 

" sauce vinaigrette 24 

" savory omelet of 25 

" and tongue, mushrni sc 24 

Calf's ears, boiled, sauce vllleroi 29 

" fried, tomato sauce 29 

'• ragout of, in croustades. 29 
" stuffed, sauce bordelaise 29 
" with truffles, sc. trianon. 30 

" turtlestyle 29 

Calf 'b feet 30 

" boiled, poivrade sauce-.. 30 
" crepinettes, sc prov'cale 30 

" croustades of 30 

" frlcasee of 30 

" in batter, Italian sauce. 30 

" jelly 30 

" witbmushr'm, sc.poulett 30 
" steamed, sc. remoulade. 30 

Calf's head 28 

" with bacon & parsley so. 28 
" baked with chipolatagar 28 

" " English style 28 

" " German style 28 

" " sauce maintenon.. 28 

" boiled, sauce vinaigrette 29 
•' and braine,musbroom so. 28 
" " " sauc poivrade 29 
" braised, with veaJquen'ls 28 

" curried with rice 29 

" with financiers ragoat. . . 28 

" fried, tomato sauce 28 

" fricassee of, withveg'bles 29 
" with olives.tomato sauce 29 

" sauce Italienne 28 

" sauce poulette 28 

" soup, Portugese style.... 29 

" " with quenelles 29 

stuffed, sauce papllotte. 29 
" and tongue, piquante sc. 28 
" " " ragout of — 29 

" tu-t'estyle ...28 

Calf's heart, larded, sauce Andalouse 30 

" stuffedand braised 30 

" " Madiera sauce.. 30 

Calf's kidneys, broiled, parsley butter 30 

" croquettes with peas. 31 

" in croustades 31 

fried, sauce colbert. . . 31 
" larded, Madeira sauce 30 

' ' omelet 31 

" patties of 31 

" ragoutof 31 

" sautes with mushr'ms 30 
Calf's liver and baoon with spinach . 31 

" broiled, Italian sauce 31 

" braised, with vegetables . 31 

" with crisped onions 31 

" fried, with fine herbs 31 

" potted, with aspic jelly... 32 

" quenelles In crumbs 32 

" saute, with bacon 31 

" scallops of, with mushr'm 31 
" with smothered onions... 31 

" stewed with onions 31 

" timbale of, piquant sauce 32 

Calf's sweetbreads, blanquette of . . . . 33 

" braised, garnished. .. 33 

" " wlthBorrel 33 

" broiled, sauce colbert 32 
" with brown butter... 32 

" In cases 33 

•' casserole of 33 

" withcream'dmush'm 84 
" in cream, on toast... 321 
" croquettes with peas 32 
" croustade of curried. 33 
" outlets of, with veg'bl 33 

" with deml-glace 33 

" fried, mushr'm sauce 34 
" " sauce perigueux 32 

" " sauce villeroi... 34 

" with financier ragout 33 
" glazed, French beans 33 

'• kromeskies of 34 

" larded and braised, 

mushroom sauce . 33 
" larded, sauc toulouse 33 
" patties of, scrambled 33 
" ragoutof, with morels 34 

" " " on toast 34 

" rissoles of, vegetables 32 
" saute of, with baked 

tomatoes 34 

" sautes with peas 32 

" scalloped 33 

" lnshell 32 

" stewed, kidney beans 34 

" timbale of 33 

Calf's tongue, braised, tomato sauce- 32 



Page 

Calf's tongue, fried, sauoe Robert 32 

" with potatoes. mush. bc 32 

" sauce tartare 32 

" saute, vinaigrette 32 

California shoulders, pickling of 132 

Calipee and calipash 28 

Cambridge sausage 139 

Camembert 35 

Canapes 35 

Aberdeen 36 

anchovy 1& 2 

Berne, or Swiss canapes 35 

Cabillaud 36 

Of caviar 35 & 40 

chasseur 35 

cheese 36 

chicken 35 

of chicken livers 35 

of crab 35 & 68 

Creole 35 

Ino ian 35 

Lorenzo 35 

Madison 35 

Madras 36 

olive 35 

of oranges 119 

of oysters 35 

of potted ham 35 

of potted tongue 36 

sardine 36 

savory 36 

Scotch 36 

of shrimps 35 

of smoked salmon 35 

Swiss 36 

Windsor 36 

Winchester 36 

Canard 36 

Candied peel fritters 82 

Canned goods 36 

Caunelons 36 

Canteloupes 36 

Capers 36 

Caper sauce 156 

" for flsh 156 

Capercailzie 36 

Capons 36 

boiled stuffed, celery sauoe 37 

" with mllanalse garnish.. 37 

" mushroom sauce 37 

" with sait pork 31 

" with tongue & cauliflower 37 
braised, with chipolata garnish 37 
" with quenelles, sauce 

perigueux 37 

" eauce supreme 37 

" with tomatoed rice — 37 

roast, with noodles 37 

" stuffed, glblet sauce- ..37 

" " with rice 37 

Capon, stewed, with vegetables 37 

Capsicums 37 

Caramel 37 

Caraway 37 

Carbonade 37 

Cardinal 37 

(garnish) 86 

sauce 156 

Cardoons 37 

Carmine 38 

Carp 38 

baked, sauce genose 38 

" sauce matelote 38 

boiled, caper sauce .38 

braised stuffed sauce allemai ne 38 

broiled stuffed, flnes-her'oes so. 3* 

•' lemon parsley butter... 38 

fried, piquante sauce 38 

Carp roes, boiled, sauce supreme.... 38 

" fried, sauce tartare 38 

" patties of 38 

" scalloped, in shell 38 

Carp saute, admiral sauce 38 

Carrots 3£ 

curried, with rice 39 

braised new, parsley sance 38 

glazed new, with butter 39 

new, in brown gravy 39 

" in cream 38 

" poulette sauce 39 

puree of 146 

salad with asparagus tips 39 

sauce 156 

saute of new 38 

soup 39 

stewed, with green peas 89 

Carving 39 

Cases 27 

Casserole 39 

jCassla 39 



Cassolette 39 

Catfish 39 

Catsup, anchovy 2 

mushroom 109 

Caul (pigs) 131 

Cauliflower, baked 40 

boiled, Hollandaise sauce 40 

cream of 40 

fried, allemande sauce 40 

with mayonnaise 40 

pickled 40 

puree of 40 

salad 40&160 

sauce 40 & 156 

scalloped 40 

stewed 40 

Caviar 40 

canapes of 35 & 48 

croustades 40 

with egg 40 

eggs stuffed with 40 

tartines 40 

on toast with olives 40 

Celeriac 41 

Celery 40 

baked, with cheese 41 

boiled, with onions 41 

braised, on toast 41 

consomme 4! 

cream of 41 

fried, sauce villeroi 41 

fritters 41 

with marrow 41 

mayonnaise of 41 

patties 41 

puree of 145 

" " and onion3 41 

salads ISO 

sauce, brown and white 156 

saute 41 

stewed, on toast 41 

Cepes 41 

broiled, on toast 42 

omelet with 42 

saute of , on toast 41 

stewed, on toast 41 

Cercelles 42 

Cerealine 42 

Cerises glaces a la Chantilly 46 

Cerveaux au beurre noir 24 

en coqullle au gratin 24 

Cervelas 42 

Cervelat sausage, Brunswick .139 

Cervelatpolse or Danish beef and 

pork sausage 137 

Cervelles 42 

Chablis 42 

Chadeau sauce 167 

Chaflngdish 42 

Chambord (garnish) 86 

sauce 157 

Champagne 42 

sauce 157 

Chantausen sauce 157 

Chantilly 4S 

cream 42 

soup 4J 

Charcoal 42 

Charlotte 42 

blackberry 18 

peach 128 

cherry 45 

Chartreuse 42 & 65 

peach 128 

Cbassnur 42 

sauce 156 

Chateaubriand 43 

sauce 157 

Chaudfroid 43 

sauce ..167 

Cherries 44 

brandied 45 

in croustades 45 

glazed, with whipped cream — 45 

Cherry charlotte 46 

cobbler 45 

compote 45 

flawn 45 

fritters 45 

jelly 45 

marmalade 45 

meringue 45 

pie 45 

•' deep 45 

pudding 45 

roly-poly /5 

sauce 167 

sherbet 45 

tarts 45 

trifle 45 



c 

Page 

Cherry water ice 4S> 

Cheese 43 

biscuits 43 

bombe 44 

camembert 35 

canapes 36 

casseroles 44 

club 44 

cones 44 

cottage 43 

custard 41 

fingers 44 

flans 44 

fritters 44 

gruyere 92 

liver, Italian style 31 

lobster 101 

omelet 44 

parmesan 12* 

potted 44 

puddln» 44 

ramequlns 43 

sandwiches 44 

savories 43 

scallops 4H 

souffles 44 

straws 43 

Swiss 92 

Cheesecakes, apple 3 

Chemise 44 

Chervil 45 

Chestnuts 45 

devilled 46 

foroemeat 46 

puree of 46 & 145 

soup 46 

Chevreuil sauce 157 

Chiantl 46 

Chicken, blanched, with veloutesauc 48 

blanquette of, with truffles 49 

boiled larded, with macaroni... 50 
" with salt pork, parsley sc 48 
" with veg'bl,allemandeso 50 

" boned 61 

bouchee of 20 

Chicken, braised fillets of, Hanover sc 49 
" with green peppers 49 

" with macaroni 48 

" with mushrooms... 50 

" with vegetables 50 

Chicken, breast of, steamed, sauce 

supreme 52 

broiled 46 

" hunter's style 48 

Chicken broth with artichokes 56 

" with asparagus 56 

" with custards 55 

" with onions 56 

" with poached egg 56 

" with rice 55 

" with sorrel 56 

" with spring vegetabl's 56 

Chicken canapes 35 

cannelon of, tartar sauce 53 

capilotade of 53 

chartreuse of, with string beans 50 

chaudf roid of 50 

with chestnut puree and veg'bls 48 

co 1 1 ops of, with macaroni 54 

consomme 55 

Chicken, cream of 55 

" " with quenelles ... 55 

" " with rice 55 

" " with tomatoed 

quenelles 55 

Chicken croquettes 46 

croustades of 53 

curried, with rice 49 

Chicken cutlets with green peas 50 

'• minced sc bordelalse 46 

'• of, with vegetables.. 47 

Chlcken,epigramme of, tomato sauce 48 

Chicken, fillets of, with asparagus pts 50 

" " with cardinal sauc 62 

Chicken forcemeat 50 & 82 

" balls curried, with rice 50 
" fried, tomato sauce... 53 

Chicken, fricassee of 46 

Chicken, fried 46 

" In hatter, tomato sauce 48 
" breast of, corn fritters 52 
" with cucumber puree.. 49 

" fricassee of 47 

" Indian style 49 

" with rice and okras 52 

Chicken fritters, plquante sauce .... 53 

galantine of 51 & 84 

giblets, ragout of, with potato 

croquettes 54 

glblet soup 54 



Page 
Chicken giblets stewed, with rice — 54 

gumbo 55 

Chicken halibut 93 

and ham hashed with rice 54 

ham and tongue 6ausage 140 

haricot of, with vegetables 48 

hash with peppers on toast.. . . (3 

" with stuffed peppers 53 

kromeskies, sauoe perigueux... 61 
legs, boiled, with green peas... 52 

" devilled, with bacon 50 

Chicken livers, brochette of 22 

" canapes of 35 

" in oases 54 

'• forcemeat 54 

" omelet of 64 

' ' roast, on toast 54 

" saute of , on toast 54 

" stewed, with mush'rs 54 

Chicken, Maryland style 48 

matelote of 48 

mayonnaise 56 & 161 

a la Marengo 49 

minced, with poached egg 53 

panada with eggs on toast 63 

patties, sauce supreme 61 

pie 46 

pies, small, French style 47 

potted, for sandwiches 53 

pot pie 46 

puree of 55 

quenelle forcemeat 51 

" with mushrooms 51 

" with truffles.sc supreme 63 

with rice, maltese style 47 

rissoles of 51 

roast boned 51 

" with mushr'ms & bread sc 48 

" oyster sauce 47 

salad 56 & 121 

salpicon of, with potatoes 51 

sausages, sauce Hollandaise ... 63 

Chicken, saute of, with bouchees 51 

" with mushrooms 48 

" with oysters 53 

" with potato balls 63 

" with rice and leeks... 63 

" with rlssoto 47 

Chicken, scalloped 51 

smothered 46 

souffles of 53 

Chicken soup, Creole style 65 

English style 55 

with noodles 56 

with peas puree 66 

Portuguese style 65 

with rice and .eeks 6f 

Southern style 55 

Turkish style 66 

with vegetab'es 55 

Chicken, spltchcocked.crapaudlne so. 49 

Chicken, stewed, with dumplings 49 

" with estragon 60 

" German style 61 

" Mexican style 49 

" with rice 49 

" sauce provencale.. 62 

" sauce ravigote 62 

•' Spanish style 47 

" with tomatoes 47 

" Turkish style 47 

Chicken stuffed with chestnuts, Ma- 
deira sauce 47 

" breast of, cucumbers 52 

" " " scperigueu f2 

" & stewed, sc. mllanais 49 

supreme of, with rice. perigueux 47 

" " with toulouse ragout 47 

tlmbalesof.withforc'meatDalls 53 

vol-au-vet t of, with quenelles. . 51 

Chicory 46 & 80 

salad 150 

Chtffonade 66 

Chillies 37 

Chili sauce 157 

Chipolata 66 

(garnish) 86 

Chives 56 

Chivry (garnish) 86 

Chocolate 56 

blancmange 56 

cake 57 

cream 57 

" fritters 56 

oup custards 57 

float 57 

fritters 83 

Ice eream 57 

Icing 75 

pudding 57 



C J 77 

Page 

Choux de bruxelles 2i 

croutons 57 

Choux-paste 57 

Chow chow 57 

Chowder, clam !8 

codfish 61 

Philadelphia clam 68 

Chutney 67 

apple 3 

Cider 57 

Cinnamon 57 

extract of 81 

Cisco 57 

broiled, lemon parsley sauce... 57 

fillets of. In batter 67 

sante, julienne potatoes 57 

Citric acid 58 

Citron 68 

cake .'8 

Civet of venison 173 

Clams 58 

broiled 58 

broth 68 

chowder 68 

cocktail 60 

cream of £9 

croquettes 58 

forcemeat 58 

fricasssee of 68 

fried 58 

fritters 58 

roast 68 

scalloped 68 

soup 69 

steamed 68 

stew 68 

Claremont sauce 157 

Claret sauce 157 

Cloves 9 

extract of 81 

Club cheese . . . . 44 

Cobbler 69 

apple 4 

cherry 45 

peach . .128 

Coblenz sausage 139 

Coohineal 69 

Cochon 59 

delait 69 

Cock-a-leekle soup 65 

Cockie-leekie soup 69 

Cockles 59 

Cockscombs 59 

Cocks kernels 59 

Cocktails 59 

clam 60 

Neptune 60 

oyster ' — 60 

Cocoa 69 

Cocoanut 59 

Cocotte 69 

Cod, boiled salt, cream sauce 61 

creamed fresh, on toast 60 

crimped, shrimp sauce 61 

cutlet fried, piquante sauce — 60 

au gratln 61 

and oyster pie 123 

" " " French style 61 

Cod's roes, boiled, butter sauce 61 

" broiled, butter sauce 61 

" fried, caper sauce 61 

" smoked 61 

Cod, salt, shredded and creamed 61 

" scalloped 61 

" scrambled, on toast 61 

Cod's sounds, fricassee of , with oystrs 61 
" stuffed, oyster sauce-.. 61 
Cod steak, boiled, with anchovies.... 69 
breadcrumbed, parsley sc. 60 

" broiled, colbert sauce 60 

" curried, with rlssoto 60 

" fried, tomato sauce 60 

" saute, club style 61 

Codfish 60 

baked, caper sauce 60 

•' stuffed with oysters 60 

" breadcrumbed 60 

" balls 61 

boiled, egg sauce 60 

cakes 61 

chowder 61 

hash, salt, New England style . 62 

salad 150 

scalloped fresh 61 

Codfish tongues, boiled, egg sauce ... 61 

" patties 62 

" scalloped fresh .... 61 

Coffee 62 

ice cream 62 

Cognac 62 



178 



C-D 



Page 

Colbert 62 

•nuoe 157 

soup 62 

Cole slaw . 27 

Combination salads 154 

Compote H2 

apple 3 

banana 7 

blackberry 18 

of blackbirds 18 

cherry 46 

of oranges il9 

of peaches 127 

of pigeon 133 

Conde 62 

Confiture fritters 83 

Conger eel, boiled, allemande sauce . 78' 

" curried with ric<j 78 

" fried, tartar sauce 78 

" roast stuffed, admiral sc. 18 

Consomme 62 

Af ricaine 62 

andalouse 62 

Anglaise 62 

with asparagus tips 05 

bagration 62 

barigoule 63 

beauvllliers 63 

bourdaloue 63 

bourgeoise 63 

brunoise 63 

careme 63 

celery 41 & 63 

celestine 63 

cbantilly 6 3 

chatelaine 63 

chicken 5^ 

chlffonade 63 

with choux 63 

cl aremont 63 

colbert 63 

with corn 65 

cussy 63 

with darioles 63 

daumont 63 

de Btael 65 

descllgnac 03 

d'Orsay 63 

Douglas 63 

duborg 63 

Duchesse 63 

epicure 64 

Gambetta 64 

of game 64 

imperatrice 64 

imperial 64 

Indienne 64 

Ingredients 62 

Italtenne 64 

Joinvllle 64 

julienne 64 

Kursel 64 

with macaroni 64 

macedoine 64 

magenta 64 

Marie Stuart 64 

Massena 64 

Meflcis 64 

Milanaise 64 

Monte Carlo 64 

Montmorency 64 

Napolitaine 64 

Naudier 64 

Nilsson 64 

nl vernaise 64 

with noodles 64 

orge 64 

Palestine 65 

pate d'ltalie 65 

patti 65 

paysanne 65 

with peas 64 & 65 

polsson 65 

Prince de Galles 65 

Prlncesse 65 

prlntaniere 65 

" royal 65 

with quenelles 65 

Rachael 65 

renaissance 65 

with rice ... 6F 

rivoli 65 

royale 65 

sagou 65 

8t. Xavier 65 

semoule 65 

seveigne 65 

solferino 65 

suedoise 65 

talma... 65 



Page 

Consomme trois racines 65 

with turnips 65 

vermicelli 05 

volatile 65 

65 

de Bruyere 65 

d'Inde 65 

Coquille 65 

Coroeille 65 

Cordials 65 

Coriander 65 

Corn 66 

batter cakes 60 

Corned beef hash 15 

Corn blanc mange 66 

bread, johnny cake or corn dodgr 66 

dodger 60 

fritters... 06 & 83 

gems or muffins 66 

pudding, grated 67 

griddle cakes 8 

hulled 6ii 

Corn meal or Indian pudding 66 

" gruel 66 

" mush 60 

Com muffins (6 

mush fried 60 

in ear, roast 67 

salad 07 

soup 67 

starch 67 

stewed, Creole style 67 

and tomato soup 67 

waffles 66 

Cotelettes 6'i 

Cottage cheese 43 

Courtbouillon 67 

sauce 157 

Crab apples 69 

Crabs 67 

baked f8 

bisque of 17 & 09 

buttered 07 

cakes 67 

canapes of 33 & 08 

Creole style 68 

croquettes 63 

croustade of 68 

devilled 68 

oniince of 68 

forcemeat 68 

fritter* 68 

gumbo (soup) 68 

kromeskies 68 

omelet 68 

queen style 68 

a la Reice 68 

salad 63 & 151 

sauce 69 

sausages 68 

scalloped 

stew 08 

stuffed 08 

toast 07 

tomatoes stuffed wi th 08 

Cranberries 69 

Cranberry jam 69 

jelly 69 

pie 69 

roll 69 

sauce 158 

tartlettes 70 

Crapaudine 70 

sauce 157 

Crayfish 70 

bisque Of 17 

butter 26 

tails, bouchce of 20 

" brochette of 23 

Cream 70 

anchovy 2 

apple 3 

Bavarian 70 

of cauliflower 40 

of celery 41 

chantilly 42 

Cream of chicken 55 

" " with quenelles 55 

" " with rice 55 

Cream , chocolate 57 

of clams 59 

dressing 154 

fritters 70 

lemon 100 

of lentils 100 

puffs 67 & 70 

sauce 70 

stew (oyster) 121 

of tartar 70 

whipped 70 



Page 

Creamed fresh mushrooms 10s 

macaroni 104 

onions 118 

oysters on toast 123 

Crecy u 

Creole canapes 35 

omelet 80 & 117 

sauce 157 

Crepes 71 

Crepine 71 

Creplnettes .. 71 

Cress 71 

salad 11 

Cresson 71 

Cretes de coq 59 

Cre vette sauce 157 

Cromeskies 71 

Croquenbouchees 57 

CroquetteB 71 

apple 3 

bass 8 

beef, with peas 13 

brain, with peas 84 

chicken 46 

clam 58 

crab 68 

of ham with green peas 94 

hominy ... 96 

lobster H2 

macaroni 104 

oyster 153 

partridge, sauce Perlgueux. ...126 

pork, anchovy sauce 136 

potato 143 

rice 149 

salmon 154 

stuffed potato 143 

of sweetbreads 166 

turkey 170 

of veal 172 

Croustades 71 

caviar 40 

of oysters 122 

of partridge 126 

of rice 149 

Croute-au-pot 71 

Croutons — 71 

Cucumbers .71 

blanquetteof 71 

creamed 71 

■curried 71 

French style 72 

fricassee of 71 

fried, with marrow 71 

glazed, on toast 71 

ketchup 72 

and onion salad 72 

pickled 72 

pureeof .71 

salad 72 & 151 

sauce 157 

stuffed, with forcemeat 71 

Cumin 72 

Cup custards, chocolatn 67 

ices 96 

Curacoa 65 & 72 

sauce 168 

Curd 72 

Curing 72 

Currants 72 

dried 72 

Curry 72 

Bauce 167 

of veal 173 

Custard 72 

apple 3 

cheese 44 

fritters 83 

sauce .... 168 

royal 149 

Cutlets 72 

Czarina sauce 72 & 157 

Damson 72 

Dandelion 7:i 

salad 151 

Danish beef and pork sausage 137 

liver sausage 138 

smoked sausage 137 

Darioles 73 

Dame 73 

de saumoD 73 

D'Artois 73 

(garnish) 86 

Dates 73 

Date pudding 73 

Daube 73 

Dauphine 73 

(garnish) 86 

Demi-glaze 73 

Dent-de-lion 73 



D-E 



E-F 



Page 

Devils 73 

Devilled almonds 1 

crabs 68 

lobster 101 

oysters 121 

rabbit 147 

Dewberries 18 

Diable sauce 168 

Dlnblotins 73 

Diamond back 73 

Digest, medical table of time 73 

Digestion 73 

Dindon 74 

Di plomate sauce 158 

Dolmas 74 

Doucette (corn salad) 67 

Dougnbirds 74 

Drawn butter 26 

Dressing, cream 154 

French 154 

Hollandalse 164 

Dry stew (oyster) 121 

Duchesse (garnish) 80 

sauce 158 

Damns (garnish) 80 

Dumplings, apple 3 

lemon 100 

peach 128 

Durand (garnish) 80 

Dutch sauce 76 

D' Uxolles 70 & 158 

Duck, boiled , parsley sauce 74 

boned stuffed, with aspic. 74 

braised, with sauerkraut 75 

" with vegetables 75 

curry, with rice 75 

Ducks and ducklings 74 

Ducks' giblet soup 70 

" stewed, in border 76 

Ducks' livers, brochette of 22 & 76 

scallops 76 

Duck, roast, orange sauce .... 74 

" with peas, Hanover sauc 74 

Duck, salpicon of, in cases 75 

Duck, salmis of, in croustade 7; 

" " with fried hominy.. 75 

Duck, saute of , with cheBtnuts 75 

" " with noodles 76 

" " with olives 75 

Duck, stewed, with green peas 7f> 

'■ with puree of peas.... 76 
" with stuffed tomatoes. 70 

" with turnips 75 

Duck, Btuffed, Italian sauce 76 

Duckling, broiled, with devilled buttr 14 

fillets of, macedoine 76 

fried fillets of, sauce bigarade.. 70 

stuffed, orange sauce 70 

Ears, pig's 131 

Kcarlate .. 77 

Ecarlette (garnish) 87 

Eclairs 57 & 77 

Eel-pout 78 

Eel salad 77 & 151 

Eels 77 

baked, London style 77 

boiled, maitre d'hotel 77 

brochette of 22 

broiled boned 77 

braised, Allemande sauce 77 

fricassee of 77 

fried, shrimp sauce 77 

grilled, London style 77 

matelote of 77 

orly of 77 

roast, anchovy butter 77 

stewed, London style 77 

Egg patties 78 

powder 6 

rarebit 78 

salad 151 

sauce 158 

Eggs 78 

breaded, Creole sauce 79 

with brown butter 7v> 

with caviar 79 

in croustade 79 

curried 

devilled 78 

fricassee ef 79 

au gratin 78 

Indian style 

masked, Madeira sauce 78 

molded, provencale sauce 78 

with onion puree 79 

poached 78 

salpicon of 79 

scrambled 78 

" In cases 79 

" with tomatoes 79 



Pa^e 

Eggs, shirred 78 

stuffed 78 

'• with caviar 40 

Egg plant, broiled, on toast 80 

" with cheese 80 

" fried 80 

" fritters 80 

" salad 151 

" stewed 80 

'• stuffed 80 

" Turkish style 80 

Emince of crab 68 

En caisse 28 

Endive 80 

salad 151 

English beef soup 13 

Eplgramme 8U 

Epping sausage — 139 

Bspagnole sauce.. ..' 81 & 158 

Extracts 81 

Extract of Aniseed 81 

of bitter almond 81 

of cinnamon 81 

of cloves 81 

of lemon 81 

of sarsaparilla 81 

of vanilla 81 

of wintergreen 81 

Fanoy fry (oysters) 122 

Farina 81 

pudding, baked 81 

" boiled 81 

fritters 81 

Fat, fresh lard-back 131 

pigs gut 131 

pigs kidney 131 

Fennel 81 

sauce 81 & 168 

Fermiere (garnish) 87 

F r 



- lgs. 



81 



Flnanciere 81 

sauce 158 

(garnish) 87 

Fine herbs 81 

sauce 158 

Finnan haddie 81 

" baked 81 

" " Aberdeen style.. 93 

" " butter sauce 93 

" '■ with tomatoes... 93 

'• boiled 81 

" " cream sauce 93 

" broiied 81 

" " lobster butter... 93 

•' Delmonico style 81 

" saute, parsley sauce... 93 

Flageolets 9 & 82 

Flamande (garnish) 87 

Flannel cakes 82 

Flannel griddle cakes 8 

Flemish sauce 158 

Float, chocolate 57 

Flounders 82 

Flour, graham 90 

Foie-gras.. : 82 

bouchee of 20 

Fonds d'artichauts a l'ltallenne 6 

" a la Montglas 5 

" a la Strasbourg. . 5 

'• a la Supreme 5 

Fondu 82 

Forbidden fruit 91 

Forcemeat ■ 82 

Forcemeat balls, chicken, curried, 

with rice 50 

" liver 32 

Forcemeat, brain 24 

chestnut 40 

chicken 50 & 82 

" fried, tomato sauce 63 

" liver 54 

" quenelle 51 

clam 

crab 68 

ham aDd liver 82 

veal 82 

Fore hams or Callforbia shoulders. . .132 

Fowl, boudin of : 21 

Frangipane 82 

Frankf oris 82 

Frankfort sausages (weinerwurst >. ..140 

Frappe 82 

French dressing 82 & 154 

French salad 151 

Frlantine 82 

Fricadelles: also called Fricandelles. 82 

Fricandeau 82 

Fries, lamb 99 

Fritters 82 

apple 3 & 83 



F-G 179 

Fritters, apple custard. g y 

anchovy ..fj 2 

apricot 4 & 83 

artichoke 5 

banana 7 

brioche ...!!! 73 

candied peel , .... 82 

celery 41 

cheese 44 

cherry 45 

chicken, piquante sauce 53 

clam f8 

chocolate 83 

chocolate cream 51; 

confiture t.'i 

corn 06&83 

crab os 

cream 70 

custard £3 

egg-plant 80 

farina 81 

fruit g3 

German 83 

orange 83 & 119 

oyster plant 124 

parsnip 83 * 12a 

peach 83 & 123 

pineapple 83 

potato 143 

Queen .. 13 

rhubarb 14<) 

rice 83 

Spanish puff 83 

Frogs 83 

fried, tartar sauce 83 

omelet, Southern style 81 

Frogs legs, broiled 83 

" fricassee of 83 

" saute, bordelaise 84 

" " poulette 84 

" " provencale 84 

" Southern style 84 

" stewed, with peas 83 

Fruit fritters 83 

jelly 97 

Fumet sauce 159 

Galantines 84 

Galantine of turkey 170 

Gall (pig's) 131 

Game 84 

bouchee of ... 20 

boulettes of 21 

salad 11 2 

puree, bouchee with 20 

Garden parties 84 

Gardener's salad 151 

Garfish 65 

Garlic 85 

butter ?o 

Garnishes 85 

Garnish, admiral 85 

Af ricaine 86 

Allemande 85 

Andalouse 85 

Anglaise 85 

D'Artols. . • 86 

Aurore ■ 85 

Bayard go 

Bohemienne 86 

Bordelaise 86 

Bourgeoise 86 

Bourglgnonne 86 

bourglgnotte 86 

Bretonne 86 

cardinal 86 

chambord 86 

cbipolata 86 

chivry 86 

Dauphine 86 

Duchesse 80 

Dumas 86 

Durand 86 

ecarlate 87 

fermiere 87 

flnanciere 87 

flamande . 87 

godard 87 

gourmet 87 

Greque 87 

Hussard 87 

Journeaux 87 

au jus Hi 

macedoine s? 

Mariniere 87 

matelote 87 

Milanalse » 7 

mushroom 1(8 

Napolltaine 87 

Nivervaise 87 

Parlsienne 88 



180 G 

Page 

Garnish, paysanne 87 

perigueux 87 

provencale 88 

Regency 88 

Kichelieu 88 

Rouennaise 88 

Royale ... 88 

soublse 88 

Stanley 89 

supreme 89 

tortu 89 

Toulouse 89 

Geese livers, brochette of 22 

Gems, corn 66 

Geneveise sauce... 159 

Genoise sauce 159 

German fritters 83 

potato salad 152 

sauce 159 

salad 151 

Gherkins 89 

Giblets 89 

pie 54 & 89 

pot pie 54 

and potato pie 54 

ragout of, with potato croqueus 89 

sauce 54&89&lo9 

soup 89 

•' clear 89 

" with rice 89 

stewed, with green peas 89 

Glaze 89 

Globe artichokes, Colbert sauce 5 

" stuffed 5 

Godard sauce 159 

(garnish) 87 

Godiveau 82 & 89 

Goiden buck 43 

sauce 159 

Goose 89 

boiled, with pickled pork 90 

braised, with sausages 90 

" with vegetables 90 

with kraut, German style 90 

roast, apple sauce 90 

■' green, gooseberry sauce.. 90 

" with oyster stuffing 90 

" stuffed with chestnuts... 90 
" stuffed with godiveau. . . 90 

stuffed, with glazed apples 90 

" with glazed turnips — 90 

Goose liver sausage, truffled 140 

Gooseberry sauce 90 & 159 

Gorgonzola 90 

Goulash 97 

Gourmet (garnish) 87 

Graham flour 90 

griddle cakes 8 

Grape fruit 91 

jam 90 

jelly 90 

Grapes, frosted 90 

Grayling 91 

Green corn batter cakes 67 

" roast 67 

" saute 67 

Green grape jelly 91 

Green pea sou p 1 29 

Green turtle soup 171 

Greengage 91 

Green and wax beans 9 

Grenadins 91 

Greque (garnish) 87 

Griddle cakes 8 

Grouper 92 

baked, Gulf style 92 

boiled, caper sauce 92 

" matelote garnish 92 

saute, lobster sauce 92 

stuffed and baked, tomato sauc 92 

Grouse 91 

broiled, with bacon 91 

braised, with glazed carrots — 91 

cutlets breadcrumbed 92 

glazed, sauce trianon 91 

roast, bread sauce 91 

" hunters style 91 

" Scotchstyle 91 

salmis of- 91 

stewed, with green peas 91 

stuffed fillets of, with quenelles 91 

" mushroom sauce 91 

Gruel, corn meal 60 

Gruyere or Swiss (cheese) 92 

Guava 92 

Guinea hen 92 

" braised stuffed 92 

" broiled, with bacon 92 

" roast larded 92 

" " sauce Bearnaise... 92 



G-H 



Page 

Gumbo 92 

chicken 55 

crab 69 

oyster 124 

Gut fat (pigs) 131 

Haddock 92 

baked stuffed 92 

boiled, oyster sauce 92 

broiled fresh, anchovy butter.. 93 

creamed, with oysters 93 

fillets of, breadcrmb'd, Dutch bc 93 

" " saute 93 

Haggis 93 

Hair (pigs) 13 1 

Halibut 93 

baked, egg sauce 93 

boiled 93 

creamed, with mushrooms 93 

Halibut steak, boiled, cream sauce.. 93 

'• broiled 93 

" creamed, with musbr's 93 

" fried, with bacon 93 

" saute, tomato sauce.. 93 

Ham 94 

boiled, with lima beans 91 

braised, with vegetables 94 

croquettes of, with green peas.. 94 

and liver forcemeat 82 

minced, with egg 94 

Hams 130 

pickling 130 

" ofrolled i32 

Ham, roast, champagne sauce 94 

" stuffed 91 

sauce 159 

stewed, with spinach 94 

Hamburg steak with onions 13 

" tomatoed 13 

Hamburger 94 

tomatoed 94 

Hanover sauce 159 

Hard sauce 159 

Hare 94 

braised, with game croquettes. 94 

boudinof 21 

civet of, hunters style 94 

cutlets of , piquante sauce 95 

fillets of, sautes 95 

" " polvrade sauce 94 

'• " tomato sauce 9 

fried fillets of 95 

jugged 95 

larded saddles of 95 

scallops of, with fine herbs 95 

'• " with tongue, sauce 

perigueux 95 

stuffed saddle of , with jelly — 94 

Haricot beans, Boston style 9 

" with bacon 9 

" cream sauce 9 

" puree 9 

Haricot soup, family style 9 

Harrogate sauce 159 

Hash, beef 14 

chicken, with peppers, on toast. 53 
'• with stuffed peppers.. 53 

corned beef . 15 

salt codfish, New Kngland style 62 
Hashed chicken and ham with rice.. 54 

Havraise sauce 159 

Heart, pigs 131 

Heath fowl, salmis of 19 

Herbs, fine 81 

Herring 95 

baked fresh, fennel sauce 95 

" stuffed 95 

bisque of 17 

boiled fresh cream sauce 9 

" fresh, shrimp sauce 95 

boned fresh , on toast 95 

broiled fresh, mustard sauce... 95 

curried fresh, with eggs 95 

fried fresh, mustard butter 95 

salad 152 

soused 95 

Hickory 96 

Hoe cakes 96 

Hollandalse dressing "54 

sauce 159 

Horseradish 96 

butter 26 & 96 

stuice 159 

Hominy 96 

boiled 96 

croquettes 96 

Honey, quince 1*6 

Hoofs (pigs) 131 

Hot slaw 27 

Hot pot or notch potch 96 

Hulled corn 66 



H-l-J-K-L 

Pag8 

Hunter's style 145 

Hussard (garnish) 87 

Ice, apple 3 

Ice cream 70 

banana 7 

chocolate 67 

coffee 62 

peach 128 

Iced froths 96 

peaches 128 

snowballs 96 

Ices, cup 9ti 

Imperial 96 

orange 96 

Icing, chocolate 57 

Imperial Ices 96 

Indian canapes 35 

omelet 117 

pudding 60 

stew (oyster) 121 

Indienne sauce 159 

Irish moss 96 

Irish stew 96 & 1 1 1 

Isinglass 97 

Italian salad 152 

sauce, white and brown 160 

Jaok rabbit, bisque of 17 

Jam, apricot 4 

blackberry 18 

cranberry 69 

grape 90 

orange 119 

rhubarb 148 

Jardiniere (garnish) 97 

sauce 160 

Jellied oranges 119 

Jelly 97 

apricot 97 

aspic 6 

blackberry 97 

calf's feet 30 

cranberry 69 

cherry 45 

fruit 97 

grape 90 

green grape 91 

lemon 97 

macedoine • 91 

orange 97 

peach 127 

pineapple 97 

pistachio 97 

plum 135 

quince 146 

raspberry 97 

rhubarb 148 

ribbon 97 

Russian 97 

strawberry 97 

West Indian 97 

Jennie Lind pancakes 8 

Johnny cake 66 

" apple 3 

Jolie fllle sauce 160 

Journeaux (garnish) 87 

Jugged hare 95 

Julienne 97 

Juniper 97 

Kale 97 

salad 152 

Ketchup, cucumber 72 

Khulash or goulash 97 

Kidney beans 9 

" in cream 9 

" English style 9 

" French style 9 

" German style 9 

" panaches .. 9 

Kidneys 97 

fat (pigs) 131 

pigs 131 

Kirsch or klrschenwasser 6 i 

Kirschwasser 98 

Klngflsh 97 

boiled, sauce Normande 97 

broiled, lemon butter 97 

withflre herbs 97 

fried fillets of, breadcrumbed.. 98 

saute, sauce Colbert 98 

Knockpolse or hard smoked Danlth 

sausage 137 

Kohl -rabl 98 

Koumiss 98 

Kromeskies 71 & 98 

of sweetbreads 167 

Kummel 65 & 98 

Lake trout fried, tomato sauce 168 

Lamb, blanquette of 98 

boiled 98 

braised — 98 



L 

Page 

Lamb, curried 98 

cutlets of 99 

emlnoe of 99 

eplgramme of 98 

fricassee of 98 

bashed, with poached egg 99 

fries 99 

" brochette of 23 

kidneys, brochette of 21 

noisettes of, a la Malntenon — 114 

ragout of 99 

roast 98 

saute of 98 

scallops of, with rice 99 

stewed 98 

" garnished 99 

sweetbreads in cases 99 

Larding pork 131 

Larks, bouchee of 21 

Lasagnes 99 

Leek 99 

soup, Scotch style 99 

Leeks, boiled 99 

Lemons 100 

cream ,. ..100 

dumplings 1U0 

extract of 81 

jelly 97 

marmalade 100 

mincemeat 100 

sauce 100 

soup 100 

trifle 100 

Lentils 100 

cream of 100 

soup 100 

Lettuce 100 

baked stuffed 101 

and cucumber salad 101 

and onion salad 100 

salad 100 & 152 

and tomato salad 100 

Leverpolse or liver sausage 137 

Leverpostej, llverwurst or Danish 

liver sausage 138 

Lima beans boiled 8 

cream of 9 

puree 9 

" of 146 

salad 9&152 

saute 8 

Limej ulcer 101 

Limes 101 

Llmburger cheese 43 

Liver 101 

cheese, Italian style 31 

curried, with forcemeat 101 

f oroemeat balls 32 

fried, with onions 101 

klosse 32 

pigs 131 

pudding 101 

ragout of 101 

and salt pork 101 

saute of 101 

sausage 137 & 140 

Llvernalse sauce 160 

Livournaise sauce* 160 

Liverwurst sausage 138 

Lobster in aspic cream 101 

baked, in shell 102 

bisque of 17 & 103 

Bordelalse 102 

bouchee of 50 & 102 

brochette of 22 & 102 

broiled live 102 

butter 26 

cheese 101 

croquettes 102 

curried 102 

cutlets 102 

devilled 101 

escailoped 102 

fricassee of 102 

au gratln 101 

mayonnaise of 101 

mazarlnsof 101 

mlroton of 101 

mulligatawney 103 

Newburg 102 

omolet 102 

and oyster pie 102 

patties 102 

rissoles of 102 

salad 101&152 

salpicon of 102 

sandwich 102 

sauce 160 

scalloped 101 

soup 103 



L-M 

Page 

Lobster soup, Creole style 103 

" Mariner's style 103 

stewed 102 

stuffed 102 

toast 102 

with tomatoes 102 

Locusts 103 

Lungs, pigs 131 

Lyons sausage 140 

Lyonnalse sauce 160 

Macaroni 103 

baked, and sheese 103 

buttered 104 

and sheese, French style 103 

" " plain 103 

creamed 04 

" with eggs 104 

Creole style 103 

croquettes 1' 4 

with fish flakes 104 

Qenoise style 104 

au gratln 103 

with ham 104 

Italian style 103 

with lamb kidneys 104 

with oyster butter 104 

as the Monks like it 103 

and oysters, Milan style 103 

pudding 104 

with sausages 104 

soup 104 

with spinach puree 104 

tlmbalesof 104 

" " and forcemeat 104 

and tomatoes 103 

with tomato puree 104 

Mace 105 

Macedoine 105 

(garnish) 87 

jelly 97 

salad 162 

Mackerel 105 

baked fillets of 106 

" stuffed fillets of 105 

boiled 105 

" salt 105 

broiled salt 105 

" stuffed 105 

buttered 106 

fillets of. sautes 105 

fried, butter sauce 105 

soused 106 

Madeira 105 

sauce 160 

Madelines 105 

Madras canapes 36 

Malntenon sauce 160 

Maitre d'hotel butter 26 

sauce 105 & 160 

Mallard 105 

broiled, maitre d'hotel 106 

fillets of. game sauce 106 

fried, orange sauce 106 

salmis of 106 

provencale style 105 

roast, American style .105 

Mango 106 

Maraschino 65 & 106 

Marinade 106 

Marlniere (garnish) 87 

Margarine 26 

Marjoram 106 

Marmalade 1C6 & 134 

apple 3 

apricot 4 

cherry 45 

lemon 100 

orange 119 

peach 127 

quince 146 

Marrons 106 

Marrow 1C6 

bouchee with 20 

Marzipan 106 

Mastic 106 

Matelote (garnish) 87 & 106 

sauce 160 

Mayonnaise 106 

aspic 107 

of celery 41 

chicken 56 & 151 

of lobster 101 

of sal m on 155 

sauce 161 

Mazariis — 107 

of lobster 101 

Meat olives (pauplettes) 127 

Medallions 107 

Melons 107 

Melon preserve 107 



M 



iai 



Page 

Menu 107 

Meringue 107 

cherry 45 

Mignons de boeuf auxtru ttles 15 

Mllanaise (garnish) t7 & 107 

omelet 117 

sauce 161 

Milt 107 

Mincemeat 107 

lemon 100 

Mint 107 

sauce Kil 

Mook turtle soup, clear 29 

" thick 29 

Molasses 108 

Montpelier butter 26 

Mosaic sausage 139 

Muffins, corn t't; 

Mullet 108 

Mulligatawny, lobster 103 

Muscallonge 109 

Mushrooms 108 

baked, on toast 108 

bouchee with 21 

broiled 1(8 

catsup 109 

creamed fresh 1( 8 

in oioustades 108 

fricassee of 108 & 119 

garnish 118 

omelet 109 

puree of 108 & 146 

rissoles 109 

sauce 108 

■' (brown and white) 161 

saute of 108 

stewed 108 

stuffed, Creole style 108 

" Italian sauce 108 

" on toast 1(9 

Mussels 109 

breaded, villeroi sauce 109 

brochette of 22 & 109 

creamed 1 09 

fisherman style 109 

fricassee of 109 

fried 109 

Italian style. . 109 

pan roast of 109 

sauce 1C9 

sautes of fine herbs It 9 

scalloped 109 

steamed, lemon butter sauce.. .109 

stewed 1( 9 

Mustard ll'J 

and cress 110 

Mutton 1 10 

boiled leg of 110 

" with turuips Ill 

Mutton, braised breast of, Italian sc 111 

larded leg of 110 

" leg of 110 

" " '• with beans . ..110 

" " " with veget'blslll 

" boned loin of 1:3 

" stuffed leg of lie 

Mutton, breast of, with turnips Ill 

brochette of 22 

broiled breasts of 1 11 

casseroles of 112 

Mutton chop, breaded, beans puree. 112 
" "mushroom pureell2 

" " perigueux saucellS 

" braised, garnished.... 113 

" broiled, garnished 114 

" with buttered corn 113 

" fried, Italian sauce... 112 
" withglazedBewcarotsll2 

" with peas puree 112 

" with potato border 112 

" provence style 112 

" saute, sauce Soublse.. 112 

" Southern style 112 

" wlthtruffles 112 

Mutton, coated cutlets of 112 

croustades of, with poached egg! 13 

curry of , with rice 1 1 

Mutton cutlets, baked, with apples. .112 
" fried, reformegarnlshll3 
" saute, with fine herbs 113 

Mutton, fried breast of HI 

glazed breast of HI 

haricot of Ill 

hashed , with peppers 112 & 11 3 

Dolsettes of, au Madere 1 14 

pie, English style 113 

ragout of, with tomatoes Ill 

rissoles of. sauce Hollandalse. .112 

roast leg of HO 

rolled shoulder of, oyster saucelll 



l82 



M-N-O 



Page 

Mutton, rolled stuffed breast of Ill 

stew with vegetables 113 

stuffed breast of, sauce Robert 111 

Nantaise sauce 161 

Napolitaine (garnish) 87 

sauce 161 

Nasturtium Ill 

Navarin Ill 

Neapolitan bricks 66 

sauce 161 

Nectar 66 

Negus 65 

Neptune cocktail 60 

Nesselrode HI 

Neufchatel 114 

Niceoise sauce 161 

Nivernaise 1 14 

(garnish) 87 

Noisette 114 

Noisettes d'agneau 114 

de veau 114 

Nonpareil sauce 161 

Noodles 114 

Normande sauce 161 

Noyeaa 65 & 114 

Nutmeg 114 

Oatmeal 114 

Oberland liver sausage 141 

Oeuf s a la cocotte 59 

Okra 115 

salad 115 & 153 

Olives 115 

canapes 35 

meat (paupiettes) 127 

Ollapodrida 115 

bmelet 115 

Algerienne 117 

anchovy 2 

with anchovies 117 

apricot 4 

artichoke 5 

asparagus 6 

with asparagus points 80 & 116 

with bacon 79 & 115 

with Brussels sprouts 25 

with calf's brains 117 

with calf's htad 29 & 117 

calf's kidney 31 

with capon 117 

with cepes 42 & 79 & 118 

cheese 44 

with oheese 9 & 115 

of chicken livers 54 & 79 & 115 

with chicken puree 117 

chipolata 117 

with chipped beef 79 & 115 

crab 68 

Creole 80 & 117 

with custard cream 117 

witheggplant SO & 1 16 

flnanclere 17 

with fine herbs 79 & 116 

with foie gras Ill 

with French or small green 

peas SO & 116 

frog, Southern style 84 

with bam 79 & 116 

Indian 117 

with jelly 117 

withlambkidneys 79&116 

lobster 102 

with marmalade 117 

with meringue 117 

Milanaise 117 

with minced chicken S0& 116 

mushroom 09 

with mushrooms 79 & 116 

with olives 80 & 1 16 

with onions 116 

oyster 123 

with oysters 80 & 116 

with parsley 80 & 1 16 

wlih puree of game 117 

with rum 117 

savory, of calf's brains 25 

with scallops 117 

shrimp 117 

with shrimps, Mexican sty 79 & 116 

with shrimp paste 117 

souffle 117 

Spanish 80 & llfi 

with spinach 80 & 116 

with spring vegetables. ... F0 & 116 

with sweetbreads 79&11H 

withtomatoes 80 & 1 16 

with tomatoed rice 80 & 116 

with truffles 117 

with turkey livers 117 

with veal kidneys 79 & 1 15 

Onions baked, stuffed 118 



Onions, boiled 118 

braised 1 18 

creamed 118 

in cream sauce 118 

fried 118 

glazed 118 

pickled 118 

puree of 145 

Onion puree 1'8 

" brown 119 

" with fish quenelles :119 

Onion salad US & 152 

Onion sauce - 118 

" white and brown 161 

Onion soup with cheese canapes 118 

" with crusts 118 

Onions on toast 118 

stewed 118 

vinegar 118 

Opossum 119 

Oranges, bouchee of 21 

compote of 119 

canape of 119 

fritters 83 & 119 

ices 96 

jam 119 

jellied 119 

jelly 97 

marmalade 119 

pie .119 

baked, puddiug 119 

with rice 119 

sauce 119 & 161 

trifle 11« 

Ortolan 119 

broiled 120 

bouchee of 21 

brochetteof 120 

in cases 120 

In croustade 120 

fried 120 

roast liO 

truffled 120 

Ox tails, btaised, with kidney beans. 16 

clear 13 

curried, with spaghetti 16 

curry of 120 

haricot of 16 & 120 

saute of 120 

soup 120 

" clear 120 

thick 13 

Oxtongue, boiled ...120 

" braised fresh 121 

" pickling of 132 

" smoked, German style. ..121 

Ox palates, bouchee with 21 

Oysters, bacon-coated, fried 122 

Oysters, baked, with cheese 122 

" Italian style .123 

" with mushrooms 122 

" with potatoes 122 

bisque of 17 

Boston stew 121 

bouchees 124 

bouchee of 20 

breaded, celery sauce 121 

brochette of 21 & 122 

broiled 121 

" breadcrumbed 121 

" shell 121 

canapes of . • 35 

in casserole 123 

with celery 123 

cocktail 66 

creamed on toast 123 

cream stew 121 

croquettes 123 

croustade of 122 

curried. 123 

cutlets minced 124 

devilled 121 

dry stew 122 

epigramme of 123 

fancy fry 122 

fricassee of 122 

fried 122 

glazed, on toast 122 

gumbo 124 

Indian 6tew 121 

loaf ...122 

omelet 123 

patties 123 

panned 121 

Philadelphia stew 121 

pie 123 

plain stew 121 

pot pie 123 

rissoles 124 

roast shell 121 



O-P 

Page 

Oysters, salad 152 

sandwich 124 

sauce 123 & 161 

sauce-coated, fried 122 

scalloped 121 

soup 124 

steamed 122 

stew 121 

stuffed and broiled 122 

stuffing 124 

supreme of 123 

toast 123 

Oyster crabs, fried 69 

" Newburg 69 

" patties 69 

" sauce poulette 69 

Oyster pla»nt, boiled 124 

" fried 124 

" fritters 124 

" salad 152 

" sauce poulette 124 

" saute 124 

" stewed 124 

Pancakes 1J4 

apple 3 

Berlin 73 

French 8 

Jenny Lind 8 

Swiss 8 

Panned oysters 121 

Papillote sauce 162 

Parisian (garnish) 88 

Parmesan cheese 124 

Parsley 124 

sauce 161 

Parsnip 15 

baked 125 

cream sauce 125 

fried in batter . 125 

fritters 83 & 125 

mashed 125 

sautees 125 

Partridge with bacon, paisley sauce. lie* 

bisque of 17 

boiled 125 

" garnished 126 

braised, with cabbage 126 

breadcrumbed and broiled 126 

breast of, glared vegetables 126 

" " larded and fried 125 

" " saucecolbert 125 

broiled 125 

oroquettes, sauce perigueux. . 126 

croustadesof 126 

emince of 126 

epigramme of, with mushrooms 125 

fillets of, with crayfish 126 

•' " Parisian style 126 

bashed, with egg 126 

larded and braised 125 

patttes 126 

rissoles, sauce Richelieu 126 

roast 125 

salad 126 & 153 

salmi of 125 

salpicon of 126 

saute 125 

" with rissoto 125 

stewed 12G 

Pascaline sauce 161 

Paste, anchovy. 2 

Patties, apricot 4 

asparagus 6 

beef , with mushrooms 14 

brain 25 

of calf's kidneys 31 

of carp roes 38 

celery 41 

chicken, supreme sauce 51 

codflsh tongue 62 

egg 78 

lobster 102 

oyster 123 

oyster crab 69 

partridge 126 

potato . . 143 

of scrambled calf's sweetbr'ds . 33 

of sweetbreads , 167 

turkey 171 

Paupiette 127 

Paupiettes of cabbage 27 

Paysanne (garnish) 87 

Peach 127 

ambrosia 127 

butter 127 

charlotte 128 

chartreuse 128 

cobbler 128 

croutons with glazed fruits. . . • 128 
dumplings 128 



183 



Pa?e 

Peach, fritters 83 & 12s 

ice 128 

jelly 127 

marmalade I- < 

pie 128 

shortcake 18 

tartlettes 128 

trifle 128 

Peaches, bouetaeo of 21 

bottled 12S 

brandy 127 

compote of 127 

with cream 137 

iced 128 

with rice 127 

with rice croquettes 127 

spiced 127 

PeaDut 12ti 

Pear 128 

alligator 1 

Peas 129 

puree of 129 & 1 15 

pudding 129 

Pepper 129 

butter 20 

Peppermint 129 

Pepper pot 129 

Perch 129 

Perlgueux (garnish) 87 

(sauce) 129 & 101 

Persimmon 129 

Pheasant ISO 

braised 130 

broiled 130 

roast 130 

Philadelphia capon 37 

Clam chowder 68 

scrapple 164 

stew (oyster) 121 

Pie, apple 3 

" custard 3 

beefsieak and kidney 14 

'• '• mushroom 14 

" " oyster . 14 

blackberry 18 

blackbird 18 

cherry 45 

" deep 45 

chicken 4H 

" small, French style 47 

cod and oyster 123 

" " " French style,.... 61 

cranberry 69 

gihlet 54 & 89 

" and potato 54 

lobster and oyster lo2 

mutton, English style 113 

orange 119 

oyster 12r 

i each 128 

pigeon 13; 

pumpkin 45 

rabbit 147 

rhubarb 148 

steak and ojster 12:'. 

veal and oyster 172 

venison 173 

Picallili 130 

Pickle 130 

Pickles 130 

Pickle pumps 130 

Pickled beets 16 

ca'obage 27 

cauliflower 40 

cucumbers 72 

onions 118 

Pickling beef and bams ISO 

for hams or Calif, shoulders 132 

of ox tongues 132 

of rolled hams 132 

Pled de cochon 59 

Pigeons 1 33 

braised, with flageolets 134 

" garnished 134 

breasts of 134 

compote of 133 

croustade 133 

curried '33 

" with rice 133 

fricassee of 134 

larded, garnished 133 

pie 133 

potted 133 

roast 1 33 

" with tomatoes 134 

salmis of 133 

saute of 134 

stewed, with mushrooms 133 

stuffed, with potatoes 133 

" with vegetables 133 



Page 

Pineapple fritters 83 

jelly 97 

Pintail 134 

Pi qu ante (sauce) 134 & 102 

Pistachio 131 

jelly 97 

Pig products 130 

Pigs bladders 131 

blood 131 

bones 131 

brain 131 

caul 131 

ears 131 

feet 131 

gall 131 

gut fat 131 

ham 131 

head stuffed 131 

heart 131 

kidneys 131 

" brochette of 131 

kidney fat 131 

liver 131 

lungs 131 

shoulders 131 

skin 131 

snout 131 

spleen 131 

stomach 131 

tail 131 

tongue 131 

Plain stew (oyster) 121 

Planked shad 164 

Plovers, bisque of 17 

breast of, en salmi 134 

" " with sweetbreads 134 

broiled, on toast 134 

roast 134 

Plum butter 134 

cake 135 

jelly 135 

marmalade 134 

pudding 135 

Plums 134 

bouchees of 21 

Poivrade sauce 162 

Polenta 60 

Polish sausage — 141 

Polonaise sauce 162 

Pompano 135 

Pop corn 67 

Porgie 135 

Pork and beans, baked 9 

Pork, boned boiled salt leg of 130 

Pork chops, broiled — 130 

" fried 130 

" sauteee 136 

Pork, cold rolled belly of, stuffed olivel30 

croquettes, anchovy sauce 136 

emlnce of, with fried apples 130 

fried salt with apples 136 

" kidneys 130 

larding 136 

minced, with fried a pples 130 

roast loin of 135 

" legof 135 

salt, with parsnips 136 

sausages 130 & 141 

sausage seasoning 141 

stuffed leg of 136 

Pork tenderloin , braised 135 

broiled 135 

" corned 135 

" curried 135 

stuffed 135 

" with swett potatoes 135 

Portuguese sauce 162 

Potage a la comtesse 35 

Potato casseroles 143 

croquettes. 143 

•' stuffed 143 

fritters 143 

patties 143 

puffs 143 

quenelles 143 

ragout 143 

salad 153 

soup 144 

Potatoes 142 

Anglaise 144 

baked in their skins 142 

barigoule 144 

Bernhardt 143 

bignonne 144 

when boiling 142 

brabanconne 144 

brabant 144 

bretonne 144 

broiled 143 

In cases 143 



Page 

Potatoes, chateau 144 

colbert 144 

conde 144 

cottage fried 142 

Creole H ;i 

curried 143 

duchesse 143 

to extract frost from 142 

French fried .142 

Oenevolse 144 

German fried 142 

glazed 143 

home fried 142 

gastronome 144 

hashed brown 142 

" in cream... 142 

Hollandaise 143 

Indienne 142 

julienne 142 

Lyonnaise 142 

Marie 143 

" 144 

mail re d'hotel 143 

Monaco 144 

Navarraise 143 

Orsinl 143 

Farislenne 112 

puree of 145 

Reitz 14 

saute 142 

" home fried, cottage fried, 

German fried 142 

scalloped 142 

in steaming 142 

stewed with bacon 142 

" in cream 142 

" Parisienne 143 

stuffed 143 

Victor! a 143 

villageoise 143 

Pot pie, beef 14 

chicken 46 

giblet 54 

oyster 123 

Pot roast 10 

Potted cheese 44 

chicken for sandwiches f3 

ham, canapes of 35 

pigeon 133 

rabbit 146 

tongue, canapes of 35 

Poulette 144 

sauce 144 & 102 

Pralines 67 

Prairie chicken 144 

broiled 144 

" roasted 144 

" salmis of 144 

Prawns, bisque of 17 

Preserve, melon. 107 

Preserved pumpkin rind 145 

Prickly pear 128 

Provencal* (garnish) 88 

sauce 145 & 162 

Pudding, apple 3 

baked farina 81 

" orange 119 

black 19 

blackberry 18 

boiled farina 81 

cheese 44 

cherry 45 

chocolate 57 

date 73 

farina, baked, boiled 81 

grated corn 67 

Indian 66 

liver 101 

macaroni 104 

peas 129 

plum 135 

Puffs 145 

apple 3 

Pumpkin 145 

baked 145 

pie ....145 

puree 145 

rind, preserved 145 

Punch 65 

Roman .149 

Puree 145 

of artichokes 145 

asparagas 6 

of asparagus 145 

beans with onions 9 

of beans a la soubise 9 

of Bermuda onions 118 

brown onion 119 

of carrots 145 

of celery 146 



184 



P-Q-R 



1'uge 

Puree of celery and onions 41 

of chestnuts 145 

of chicken 55 

" " with torn a toed q 

crecy 

of cucumbers. 71 

haricot beans 

lima beans 

of lima beans 

of mushrooms .li 

onion 

" with tlsh quenelles. .11'.' 

of onions 

of peas 1 .' 

pumpkin 

ofseakale 146 

of spinach .145 

<if tomatoes 

Quahaug in 

yuall Ufl 

roast — 

Queen fritters flt 

Quince honey Ufl 

Jelly 

marmalade Ufl 

Kabblt, blanquctte <>r 147 

boudln of 21 

braised, with t>. Ufl 

bmchette of 

brollod K7 

" saddle of 14H 

curried with rice 

cutlets, fried it 7 

" tomato sauce 117 

devilled It; 

Bptgnunme of 117 

rJllets garnished, sc. pcrlgucux. 117 

fricassee of . Ufl 

minced, on 

pie 117 

potted . ..Ufl 

ragout of ..141 

saute of 117 

salplcon oj 

Mil'. 1 bored, wltb onlooa . 

ste 

147 

1 salad ||| 

ltaifort sauce 

Rameqalns, cheese 

Haroblt, egg 

Torkab n 

Raspberries . 
Raspberry jelly 

vinegar 



Havlgote butter 

sauoe 

Havloles 

Reform sauce US 

Regency (garnish) m 

sauce 

Red cabbage salad 

.-towed, with sail-.. 
Red grouper, baked, Spanish tana*).. 

Red hurlcot beans \i 

Red pepper Itfl 

Redsnapper, baked 

boiled.. ..Ufl 

broiled 

saute 

stiitTcI 11^ 

: ds, bouchoe of '.'1 

brochette of 

Relne Claude Bl 

Hontoulado Sinn,. Iflj 

Rhubarb compote IIS 

wlthcu&tnr 148 

fritters.... 14$ 

Jam 

Jelly .Ufl 

nngue 149 

pie .11- 

Rlbbonjelly 

Rloo I.' 

tea 149 

croustadesof 

fritters 

grlrtdlo cake-, 

Rlceblrdn. t>< 21 

Richelieu (gar: 88 

sauce 

Rissole* H'j 

of sweetbreads 

RIsBolettes . 

Itobert sauce lt-'i 

Roe H'.i 

sauce ... lftf 

Roll. cranberry 



R-S 

l'age 

Roly poly 149 

apple 3 

cherry 45 

Romaine salad Ufl 

Roman punch U9 

Roquefort cheese 14'. ; 

Kiuennalse (garnish) 8fc 

Roulade 14'." 

I4S 

Royal custards 14'.» 

sauce 

Roy ale (garnish 1 8t» 

Russian Jelly i»7 

salad 153 

sauce 163 

Rye 150 

Sage sauce Ii3 

Salad, alligator pear 

anchovy 

artichoke lie 

and onK n 
" and toma'o ... 

asparagus 

and 1 

" ami 6 

banana 

bean 

boot and egg I 

" and potato 

cabbage 

enrr 

caullll.iw. r ... ..... i 

celery 

chicken 

chicory 

Ifltt 

ibination 

rn 

cress 

■ ■ 

and orlon 

dandelion 

eel . 

plant lsi 

• ■■ . 
Krencb . 

game 

151 

German 

■ 
herr ,...1M 

Ilftl!*] 
kale 
lottu. ■ 

■' and cucumber '"I 

U: IHP 

" atui tomato Ml 

lima ' . II 

lobster.. 
macedoli t 
okra 

onion — 
oyster.... 
oyster plant .. 
partridge.. , 

1 to 

red cabbHv'.- . 27 

radish 

: I c . .'63 

UusBlan 

salsify 

salin 1 

sardine . , 

- 

shrimp 

- them 

nlsh 

■ 

sweetbread 

tartare 

tonioto .... 

turkey 

Teal 

watercress 

Salamander 1 

■ 

do \ 
Salisbury steak with grilled potatoes 1* 

with mushr.. - 
Sally I.u: 1 
Salmi — m 
- 

br.il . ,! 

blsqii. 17 

(cold, boiled).. 

croquellos 



s 

Page 

mayonnaise of 1£6 

salad 153 

smoked 

Buapt sol 

steaks or cutlets 1 

Salmon trout, baked .ISA 

with tomatots . 108 

broiled 

" saute 

.. boucbee with 

Salsify Ma 

salad 

Salted almonds 1 

Sandwich, anchovy 2 

cheese * 1 

lobster 

oyster 

potted beef for 15 

Saratoga chips 

Bardlnea, bom 1 . 1 . . . 21 

Sardine canapes 

liver sausage 1 a HO 

salad 

nlla, extract of 81 

Sastor sausage 142 

Sauce, admiral 156 

Albert... 155 

allemande 165 

almond. . . 

anchovy 

andalualan 

aprlci t < 

aurora l.'>5 

156 

irlan 166 

Bearnalse 1P6 

bechamel 

Hey rout 156 

blgarade 168 

■ -nilan 156 

lelalse, brown and white 

bonigaolwi 

bouri . 

brand] 

■■■ 
Bretoune. In.t and OOld ■ • 

caper 

" for n»h ... 
cardinal 

corri.t 

can 

n y. white and oron d 

chadeau 

chami rd 

chauipngriu 

chaatausen . 

chasseur 

Chateaubriand 
chaudfro: I 

rr 

cbevreull 
chill . 
Claramooi 

claret 

eolbert .... 

court bouillon 

crab Ol) 

cranberry 168 

; audlne 

cream 
Creole . . . . . 
crev.tr,- 
cucuti I . r 

curry 
..-.1 
. .1 
•liable ... 
diplomat* 

dBOBMM • ..158 

l)ut, I 
d'uzelles 

t 

(Inanclere ,....., .<58 

■..:■• 
Hen. I s h ... 

I.U 
• voise 

•e 

1. an 
glblc: I 

trd 

■ ■ 

. ben 1 

ham ..169 

Hanover ...159 

bard . lfiTi 



s 



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s 



x8 5 



Page 

Sauce. Harrogate 159 

Havralse 159 

Hollandaise. 159 

horseradish 159 

Indienne 159 

lia\ian, white and brown 160 

jard,tniere 160 

jollefllle 160 

lemon 100 

Hvernalse 160 

livournalse 160 

lobster 160 

Dyonnaise 160 

Madeira 160 

maintenon 160 

maitre d'hotel 160 

matelote 160 

mayonnaise 161 

Milanaise 161 

mint! 161 

mushroom 108 

'• white and brown 161 

mussel 10y 

Nantalse 161 

Napolitalne 161 

Neapolitan 161 

Nieeolse 161 

nonpareil 16] 

Normande 161 

onion 118 

" white and brown 16] 

orange 1 19 & 161 

oyster ... .128 4 161 

paplllotte 162 

parsley IS] 

pascaline 161 

perlgueux 161 

plquante 162 

polvrade 162 

polonaise 1 62 

Portuguese 169 

poulette. 144 & 162 

provencale 162 

Ralfort 168 

ravlgote US A 162 

ref orme 1 63 

regency 168 

remoulade 163 

Richelieu 16S 

Robert 168 

roe 163 

royal 168 

Russian Ill 

sage 168 

scallop 161 

shrimp 1 * ; : i 

shallot 16,s 

Sicilian 168 

Eorrel 168 

soubise 168 

Ste. Menehould 168 

Sultana 163 

supreme 168 

tartare 164 

tomato 164 

tortu 164 

Touloute H4 

trlanon 161 

turtle 1641 

Venltienne liV4 

Verjuice ltii 

verte-pre ) 64 

vinaigrette 164 

Yorkshire It 4 

Sauce coated oysters, fried 122 

Sauerkraut 27 

Sausage Bavarian 137 

beef 1 

blood :38 

" French 138 

" North Germany 138 

Bologna 138 

" Italian 139 

cakes with potatoes 16 

Cambridge 188 

cervelat, Brunswick 139 

cervelatnpolse 137 

chicken, ham and tongue 140 

" sauce Hollaudaise 53 

Coblentz 186 

crab 68 

Danish beef and pork 137 

liver 138 

'• smoked 137 

Epping 139 

Frankfort 140 

goose liver, truffled 140 

hard smoked Danish 137 

knackwurst 14! 

knockpolse 137 



Page 

Sausage, leverpolse 137 

leverpostej 138 

leverwum 138 

liver 137 

Lyons (German recipe) .140 

mosaic 139 

oberland liver 141 

Polish 141 

pork 136&141 

sardine and liver 139 & 140 

saster 142 

seasoning, pork .141 

smoked 141 

tenderloin 141 

Thurlnglan red 141 

tomato 142 

truffled liver 14C 

veal 142 

Weinerpolse 137 

Weinerwurst 140 

Westphallan 142 

Savory canapes 35 

Scallops 164 

brochette of 23 

cheese 43 

sauce 163 

Scotch beef soup 13 

canapes 3d 

salad 153 

Scrapple 164 

Seaka le 164 

puree of 146 

Seasoning, porksaueage 141 

Semolina 164 

Shad 164 

baked 164 

" stuffed 165 

bolU d 165 

fried 166 

planked 164 

roe 165 

8liaddock 91 & 165 

Shallot 165 

sauce 163 

Sbeepshead 165 

Sherbet, apricot 4 

cherry 45 

Shortbread 165 

Shortcake apple 3 

blackberry 18 

peach 128 

Shortrlbs. beef 10 

bhou dtrs (pigs) 181 

Shrimp 165 

bit que of 17 

butter 26 

canapes of 35 

omelet 117 

salad 58 

sauce 163 

Shrub 66 

Sicilian sauce 163 

Skin (pigs) 131 

Smelts 165 

brochette of 22 

Smoked sausage or knackwurst 141 

Snipe 165 

boucheeof 21 

Snout, pigs 131 

Snowballs, Iced 86 

Soft shell crabs, boiled ... 69 

broiled 69 

" " curried 69 

" " fried 69 

" steamed 69 

Soles 165 

Sole, bouchee of 21 

Sorrel 168 

sauce 163 

Soublse (garnish) 88 

sauce 163 

Souffle 165 

cheese 44 

Sour pot roast 10 

Soused herrings 95 

Southern lalad 153 

Soups 165 

apple 8 

artichoke 5 

asparagus 6 

beef kidney 16 

button onion, with peas 119 

calf's head, Portuguese style. .. 29 
" ' with quenelles. ... 29 

carrot 39 

chantilly 42 

chestnut <C 

Soup, chicken, English styie 55 

giblet 54 

'' with noodles 56 



Page 

Soup, chicken, with peas puree 56 

Portuguese style 55 

" with rice and leeks — 65 

" Southern style 55 

" Turkish style 55 

" with vegetables 55 

Soup, clear mock turtle 29 

" oxtail 120 

clam 69 

cock-a leekle 65 

cokle-leekle 59 

colbert 12 

corn 67 

'• and tomato 67 

crab gumbo 69 

duck's giblet 76 

English beef 13 

Soup, giblet 89 

" clear 89 

" with rice 89 

Soup, green pea 129 

" turtle 171 

haricot bean, family style 11 

leek, Scotch style 99 

lemon. loo 

lentil 100 

lobster 103 

" Creole style 103 

" mariner's style 1(3 

macaroni 104 

mock turtle, thick 29 

onion, with cheese canapes 118 

" with crusts 118 

ox tail 120 

" oleai - and thick 13 

oyster, 124 

potato 144 

Scotch beef 13 

split pea 129 

sweetbread 35 & 167 

turkey 171 

turtle, clear 171 

Spaghetti 165 

Spanish fries 59 

omelet 80 & 116 

puffs 57 

puff fritters 83 

salad 163 

Spiced peaches 127 

Spinach 166 

puree of .145 

8pleen, pigs 131 

Split pea soup 129 

Spring chicken in batter, fried onions 52 
" devilled, green peas.. !2 
" fried, artlch'k bot'ns 52 
" fried, hominy fritters 52 

Spring duck, roast, applesauce 76 

Spring lamb, brochette of 22 

Spring turkey, various ways 169 

quabs 165 

sauce crapaudine 134 

Squash 166 

Squirrel 165 

Stanley (garnish) . . 89 

Steak and oyster pie 123 

Ste Menehould sauce 163 

Sterlet 1C6 

Stilton (cheese) 165 

Stomach (piss) 131 

Strawberries 166 

Strawberry jelly 97 

Stuffing, anchovy 2 

Sturgeon 166 

Succotash 166 

Sultana sauce 163 

Supreme of chlckc n 47 

(garnish) 89 

of oysters 123 

sauce 163 

Swedish salad 1(3 

Swiss canapes 35 

Sweetbreads 166 

blanquette of 166 

boucheeof 20 

braised a la Montglas 33 

" sauce Bearnaise 34 

" with vegetables 166 

breaded, sauce tartare 34 

brochette of 22 & 167 

broiled 167 

with brown butter 167 

calf's, different styles 32 

casserole of 166 

en coqullle 33 

" " au gratin 33 

cromesqules of 167 

croquettes of 166 

croustades of 168 



i86 



S-T 



Page 

Sweetbreads, curry of 168 

outlets alaNlvernaise 33 

eplgramme of 1 titi 

" "sauce bechamel. 34 

fricandeau of, with chicory 33 

fricassee of IB' 

" " and mushrooms 34 

fried , 1B7 

" colbert sauce 166 

" stuffed 160 

with kidneys 166 

lamb, in cases 99 

larded, Toulouse garnish 166 

" Toulouse ragout 34 

medallions of. 166 

patties of 167 

roast 167 

salad 35 & 153 

salplcon of 167 

saute a la flnanclere 33 

scalloped 166 

scallops of with potato croquets 34 
" " wlthToulouseragout 34 

scrambled, with eggs 16? 

soup 35 & 167 

wlthtplnach 166 

and truffles in shell 34 

vol-au-vent of, and mushrooms 33 

Tail, i igs 131 

Tapioca 167 

Tarragon 167 

Tartars salad ....... !l53 

sauce 164 

Tartaric acid 167 

Tartlnes, anchovy 1 

caviar 40 

Tartlettes, apricot 4 

blackberry 18 

cranberry 70 

peach 123 

Tart, apple 3 

Tarts, cherry 45 

Teal 167 

Tenderloin sausage 141 

Terrapin 167 

baked . 167 

bisqueof 17 

Maryland style 167 

Timbales cabbage 27 

Thon Marine 169 

Thuringlan red sausage 141 

Tomatoes 168 

puree of 145 

salad 163 

sauce 164 

sausages 142 

stuffed with crab.. 68 

Tomatoed Hamburger 94 

Tongue, braised fresh, sauce Italian. 121 
boiled smoked, sauce piquante.121 
Pigs 131 



T-V 

Page 
Tongue, smoked, -with sauerkraut... 15 

Tortillas 6ri 

Tortu (garnish) 89 

Turtue or turtle sauce 164 

Toulouse (garnish) 89 

sauce lt>4 

Trianon sauce 164 

Trifle 168 

lemon 100 

cherry 45 

orange 119 

peach 128 

Tripe, Creole style 1P8 

various ways 16 

Trout ,.. ..168 

baked stuffed 168 

boiled, shrimp sauce .. 16; 

braised, matelote 169 

filleted, fried, with bacon 168 

Trout steaks, baked 169 

" sauce trianon 168 

Tru ffl ps 169 

Truttied liver sausage 140 

Tunny, "Thon Marine" 169 

Turnips 171 

Turtle 171 

soup, clear 171 

Turkey 169 

blanquette of 170 

boiled, oyster sauce It9 

stuffed 170 

boned 170 

braised 170 

brochette of 23 

broiled spring 169 

creamed collops of 170 

croquettes 170 

croustades of 171 

galantine of 84 & 176 

hashed, with egg 170 

legs, stuffed young 170 

livers, brochette of 22 

patties and vol-au vents 171 

roast spring, oyster sauce If 9 

•' stuffed 169 

salads and soups 171 

salplcon of 171 

stewed spring, Southern style. . 169 

wings, fricassee of 171 

Vanilla 171 

extract of 81 

Veal, blanquette of 172 

boudin of 21 & 172 

brochette of 22 

chops, broiled 173 

croquettes of 172 

croustade of 172 

curry of 173 

cutlets, garnished 171 

" .sau teed 172 

emince of 172 



V-W-Y 



Page 

Veal, forcemeat orgodlveau . 82 

frlcandeau of, with vegetables. 172 

galantine of 173 

grenadins of, with spinach 172 

and oyster pie 172 

roast loin or neck of 172 

roll with tongue 171 

salad 154 

salpicon of 172 

sausages 142 

6callops of, Italian sauce 172 

stewed breast of 173 

timbales of 172 

Vegetables, fry in batter 8 

Veloute sauce 164 

Venison 173 

civet of 173 

Pic 173 

Venitlenne sauce 164 

Verjuice sauce 164 

Vermicelli 173 

Vermouth (5& 173 

Verona salami 141 

Verte pre sauce 164 

Vinaigrette sauce 164 

Vinegar 173 

onion 118 

raspberry 148 

Vol-au-veut 167 & 173 

apricot 4 

brain 2 > 

of chicken wi'h quenelles 51 

of sweetbread i and mushrooms 33 

turkey 171 

Waffles 173 

corn (6 

Walnut... 173 

Water cress canapes 71 

salad 154 

Water ices, fancy (several kinds) 96 

" cherry 45 

aerated 1 

Wax beans 9 

Wienerpolse or Bavarian sausage... 137 

Welnerwurst sausage 140 

Welsh rarebit 43 

West Indian jelly 97 

Westphalian sausage 142 

Wheat griddle cakes 8 

Whipped cream 70 

Whitefish 173 

Wintergreen, extract of 81 

Woodcock 173 

bouchee of 21 

Yarmouth bloaters, baked, in sauce.. 19 

" sautes 19 

Yorkshire buck, old fashioned 43 

pudding 8 

rarebit 43 

sauce 164 



me 




I_mS2 



HOTEL MONTHLY 



The Hotel Monthly 



A Magazine of Technical Information Devoted to the Interests of 
Hotels, Restaurants, Clubs, ana Railroad and Steamship Catering 1 . 

Specialties: The Publication of Plans, Bookkeeping Systems, Hand- 
book Compilation and a Reflex of Up-to-Date Methods. 



SUBSCRIPTION PRICE, $1.00 THE YEAR. 



Published by John Willy, 325 Dearborn street, Chicago. 



i»7 



s* * 



The Hotel flonthly Handbook series 

AND OTHER STANDARD PUBLICATIONS FOR HOTELS, CLUBS & RESTAURANTS 

For Sa!e by The Hotel Monthly, John Willy, Publisher, 325 Dearborn Street, Chicago. 



THE PRACTICAL. HOTEL STEWARD. By John Tellman 
Forms the most complete exposition of the steward's 
duties that has appeared in print. Contains articles on the 
management of help, bill of fare making, banquets, party 
catering, buying, carving; storeroom and wine room book- 
keeping (illustrated) kitchen, bakeshop and storeroom 
equipment (with lists of utensils); organization for small, 
medium and large hotels; plan of working department, 
specimen bills of fare, menus, requisition blanks, market 
lists, etc., etc.; also an exhaustive article on the wines and 
liqueurs of the world. Pi ice, cloth binding $1 ; In leather $2. 



POCKET PRICES REFERENCE BOOK. By John Tellman. 
For use of proprietors, managers and stewards. Soventy 
pages of the book are devoted to a classified arrangement 
of about fifteen hundred different articles of a caterer's 
market list, and include not alone provisions, wines and 
cigars, but also articles of china, glass and silverware, bar, 
billiards, painters', laundry, engineers' and miscellaneous 
supplies, kitchen utensils, linens, carpets, stationery, drugs 
and general expense. Opposite the name of each article is 
a ruling for the entry of brand, minimum, and maximum 
price, size of package and tha quantity purchased. A dozen 
pages are devoted to wax engraved rulings for table com- 
pilation of quantity, price, averages, etc.. for the last year 
and comparisons with the year preceding. These tables 
are ready reference for quantity and cost of coal, charcoal, 
sawdust, milk, cream, salt and ice by the month and year; 
stock used by bar; amount of commissary purchased and 
transportation charges paid on same; daily house count and 
average cost per capita by the day, month and year; total 
cost of all supplies and service each month; total issues of 
commissary each montn to me various departments; 
amount of expense issued each month to the several 
departments; cafe operating and cafe receipts; amount 
paid for transportation; table of freight rates, etc. There 
Is a condensed index in front of the book headed "Where 
to Find If; and an exhaustive index in the back of the 
book listing a thousand different articles, and, in itself, a 
very valuable compilation for "reminder" purposes. The 
book measures 3%x7 inches, weighs three ounces, is printed 
on bond paper and bound in leather. Price, postpaid, $1. 



VE3T POCKET VEGETABLE BOOK. By Chas. G. Moore. 
Is the first and only book of the kind championing a 
reformation in vegetable cookery as necessary to the great 
improvement of the average hotel and restaurant cuisine 
Is In many respects the most important culinary book for 
hotel requirements ever written. One hundred and twenty- 
six pages; an index of over a thousand references; gives 
the history and the English, French and German names of 
the different vegetables ; receipts for the vegetable salads, 
sauces and garnishes. The book is not, as its title might 
infer, an advocate of the vegetarian theory, but, rather, i s 
an earnest plea for a more general recognition of the vege- 
table kingdom, in combination with the animal kingdom 
as a prolific source of supply of appetizing, wholesome and 
nutritious foods for mankind. The book is printed on bond 
paper, bound in leather and embellished with specially de- 
signed frontispiece. Price, postpaid, $1. 



VEST POCKET PASTRY BOOK. By John E. Meister. The 
most useful book for pastry cooks and bread bakers ever 
published. The author is a practical pastry cook and baker, 
with established reputation for the general excellence of 
his work in both Europe and America. It has been his aim 
to present a series of receipts for breads, cakes, pies, pud- 
dings, creams, Ices, jellies, etc., especially adapted to the 
requirements of the average American hotel, restaurant, 
bakery, club and Institution. The book contains five hund 
red receipts, including hot puddings, pudding sauces, etc 
[57 receipts]; cold puddings, side dishes, jellies, etc. [77 re- 
ceipts]; ice creams, water ices, punches, etc. [90 receipts]; 
pasties, patties, pies, tarts, etc [68 receipts]; cakes [77 re- 
ceipts]; icings, colorings, sugars, etc. [17 receipts]; bread 
rolls, yeast raised cakes, griddle cakes, etc [60 receipts] 
miscellaneous receipts [55 receipts]. This book is printed 
on linen paper and bound in leather. Price, postpaid, II. 



THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. By Charles Fellows The 
most complete reference book for all things culinary that 
has ever been produced In single volume of 200 pages. Rec- 
ipes and explanatious for upwards of 4000 different articles 
and dishes. The book is of especial value because entirely 
in English, and the contents are so grouped as to be easily 
found; also there is to the book a carefully compiled index 
so that reference to any particular item can be had on the 
Instant. This index also is of particular value as a reminder. 
The Culinary Handbook consists of the articles under 
this head that have oppoared In the Hotel Monthly dur- 
ing the last four years. The book is handsomely bound In 
leather and printed on bond paper. Price, postpaid $2. 



A SELECTION OF DISHES AND THE CHEF'S REMINDER. 
By Chas. Fellows. Fifth edition. Is the most popular of 
the Hotel Monthly culinary handbook series. The contents 
include: 450 entrees of meats, fowl and game. 200 entrees 
most suitable for Fridays and vegetarians. 89 sweet entrees. 
"Shorsd'oeuvres— hot and cold. 85 salads. 131 soups, broths 
and bouillons. 67 consommes. 40 kinds of fish and 400 ways 
of cooking them. 182 sauces, showing their Ingredients. 125 
garnishes, showing their composition. 7 fancy butters. 10 
flavoring vinegars. 8 fritter batters. 50 fancy potato dishes 
for garnishing. 24 miscellaneous recipes. 46 valuable hints 
to cooks and stewards. BREAKFAST, including fruits in 
season, cereals, fish, (37); fried meats (15); entrees and 
miscellaneous (59); omelets (23); eggs (85); oold meats; 
potatoes (19); hot breads and cakes; drinks; specimen 
breakfast menus. LUNCHEONS, including soups (37) ; rel ■ 
ithes;flsh; luncheon entrees (157); luncheon menus. SUP- 
PER, including vegetable salads and their dressings (47); 
chafing dish service and cookery (36); wine service. A pro- 
nouncing glossary of culinary terms giving 734 translations. 
The book Is vest pocket size, printed on linen paper, bound 
In leather. Price, postpaid, $1. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL HOUSEKEEPER. By Miss 
Bresnan. Treats of the duties of the hotel house keeper 
and the management of the laundry. Iillustrates systems 
of keeping track of the linen. Price, postpaid $1. 



VACHON'S ECONOMICAL SOUPS AND ENTREES. Cob 
tains receipts for one hundred soups, and two hundred en- 
trees. Is a serviceable book for those catering for hearty eat- 
ers, where cost of meal is first consideration from the 
caterer's standpoint, All the receipts are for wholesome 
palatable dishes, and many of them for dishes that can be 
served to advantage in high class catering establishments. 
Book is vest pocket size, printed on bond paper and bound 
in leather. Price, postpaid, $1. 



APPLEGREEN'3 BAR GUIDE. OR HOW TO MIX DRINKS 
By John Applegreen formerly of Kinsley's, Chicago and 
Holland House, New York. In his preface the author says: 
,'This little book is intended to serve a useful purpose as a 
•vest pocket' ready reference where high class bar or ca- 
tering service is demanded. By a careful compounding of 
the different receipts as directed, and the use of only first- 
class ingredients, success is assured." The departments in- 
clude: Cocktails, Collins, Coolers, Daisies, Fizies, Frappes, 
High Balls, Hot Drinks, Mint Juleps, Miscellaneous Drinks, 
Party Drinks, Punches, Rickeys, Smashes, Sours, Temper- 
ance Drinks and Toddies. The book is printed on linen 
paper, bound In leather. Price, postpaid, 81. 



TEE AMERICAN COLORED WAITER. By John B. Goins. 
The author, an experienced headwaiter, had conducted 
a class for instructing waiters in their duties with consid- 
erable success. The lessons ho prepared for this purpose 
he has carefully edited, and, with the addition of many dia- 
grams illustrating the different branches of a waiter's 
work, particularly the table setting and systematic mothod 
of service, has produced the most useful handbook for 
waiters ever published. While written primarily for the 
colored waiter, It contains many points that can be studied 
with profit by the white waiters and waitresses. The book 
has an exhaustive index, is printed on linen paper and 
bound in leather. Price, postpaid, $1. 



THE RANKIN CALCULATING TABLES. Price 10 cents. 



THE FRANK E. MILLER POCKET WAGES BOOK for 
28, 30 and 31 day months, price 50 cents. 



THE EPICUREAN. By Charles Ranhofer. A Franoo- 
Amemcan culinary encyclopedia containing a complete 
treatise of analytical and practical studies on the culinary 
art. Illustrated with over 800 engravings made especially 
for the work. * * * This extensive work (nearly 1,200 pages) 
Is the result of a lifetime's experience. The author, for 
thirty years the Chef of Delmonico's, has Included in this 
massive volume the recipes for the dishes, etc , which have 
made that house famous, many of which are of his own in- 
troduction. * * * The best and most effectual manner of pro- 
viding healthy, enjoyable, and nutritious food, economic- 
ally, without waste, is a leading feature of the volume. * * * 
Every purchaser will doubtless find permanent advantage 
and satisfaction in possession of the volume many a recipe 
or entire menus may prove of more value to the user than 
many times the price of the work. * * * It is so written and 
arranged as to be clearly and fully appreciated, even by 
the simplest reader of the English language. * * * The work 
is, In all detail, up-to-date; all recipes have been fully and 
satisfactorily tested, and are in daily use at Delmonico's. 
* * * No other work of the kind in existence is nearly as 
thorough and extensive as is this one, which may be con- 
sidered to have practically exhausted the subject. ** * 
There are over 3,700 recipes, in all, in the book. * * * By 
means of reference numbers, also its exhaustive index oc- 
cupying 44 pages, ready access is had, without a moment's 
delay, to any item of informarion sought in its pages. * * * 
It has an index for marketing everything in season. ** * 
The chapter on Ice creams contains the most complete and 
exhaustive treatise ever written on that subject. * * * The 
titles of dishes, etc., are given both in French and English. 
Price, cloth binding $8: in half morocco $10; full morocco$12 



THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK AND GUIDE TO PARTY 
CATERING. By Jessup Whitehead. Contains a large 
amount of practical and reliable Information, and has ben- 
efitted thousands of stewards in the last twenty years. The 
contents include: part 1— Hotel stewardlng and composi- 
tion of bills of fare. PART 2— Restaurant stewarding and 
public party catering, part 3— Catering for private parties, 
and headwaiters and their troops, part 4— A Dictionary 
of Dishes and culinary terms and specialties, part 5— How 
to fold napkins. Price, postpaid. $3. 



HOTEL MEAT COOKING. By Jessup Whitehead. A book 
in which the instructions for cooking and garnishing are 
so fully and clearly given that a novice can work from them 
successfully. It is considered the best book for the average 
country hotel. The contents include: part 1— The hotel 
Fish and Oyster Book; showing all the best methods of 
cooking oysters and flsh, fcr restaurant and hotel service 
together with the appropriate sauces and vegetables, part 
2— How to Cut Meats and Roast, Boll and Broil. The entire 
trade of the hotel meat cutter, roaster and broiler, includ- 
ing "short orders", omelets, etc. part 3— The Hote Book 
of Soups and Entrees, comprising specimens of French, 
English and American menus, with translations and com- 
ments. Showing how to make up hotel bills of fare, with 
all the different varities of soups and consommes in proper 
rotation, and a new set of entrees or "made dishes" for 
every day. part 4— Creole Cookery and Winter Resort 
Specialties, part 5— Cook's Scrap Book— A collection of 
stray receipts, etc., etc Index and translation of all the 
French terms used in the book. Price, postpaid, $2. 



THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. By Jessup Whitehead. 
The most complete work on breads, pastries, ices , etc. ever 
published. The receipts have been tested for the last twenty 
years by leading pastry cooks of America and other coun- 
tries and found to be true and thoroughly reliable. The 
contents include: part 1— The Hotel Book of Fine Pas- 
tries, Pies, Patties, Cakes, Creams, Custards, Charlottes, 
Jellies and Sweet Entrements In variety. PART 2 — The 
Hotel Book of Puddings, Souffles and Meringues. A 
handy collection of valuable receipts, original, selected 
and perfected for use in hotels and eating houses of 
every grade, part 3— The Hotel Book of Breads and 
Cakes; French, Vienna, Parker House and other rolls, 
muffins, waffles, tea cakes; stock yeast and ferment; Yeast 
raised cakes, etc., as made lu the best hotels, part 4— The 
Hotel Book of Salads and Cold Dishes. Salad dressing, with 
and without oil. Salads of all kinds, how to make and how 
to serve them; Boned fowls, galantines, aspics, etc. Price, 12. 



COOKING FOR PROFIT AND EIGHT WEEKS AT A SUM- 
MER RESORT. By Jessup Whitehead. This book is 
considered by many stewards and chefs to be the most 
useful culinary work ever published, particularly as an all 
around book for country hotels, restaurants, lunchrooms 
and the like, where It s essential to consider the cost, make 
the best of everything, and adapt one's self to circumstances. 
It is a remarkable volume which shows how money Is made 
by boarding people and what it costs to live well. The con- 
tents include: part 1— Some articles for the show case. 
The lunch counter. Restaurant breakfasts, lunches and 
dinners. Hotel breakfasts, dinners and suppers. Oyster 
and flsh house dishes. The ice cream saloon. Fine bakery 
lunch. Quaker dairy lunch. Confectionery goods. Home- 
made beers, etc. part 2— Eight Weeks at a Summer Re- 
sort. Presents a vast fund of Information regarding the 
preparing of breakfasts, dinners and suppers, ordinary and 
extraordinary, stating quantities and estimated cost of pro- 
visions required. Kitchen equipment. Cold storage. One 
hundred different bills of fare. Eleven hundred recipes. A 
dictionary of cookery. Artistic coi> Very illustrated. Price S3 



THE FAMILY COOK BOOK. (Whiteheads) Price, $1.50. 



HOW TO FOLD NAPKINS. (Whiteheads) Price, 60 cents 



THE FRANCO AMERICAN COOKERY BOOK. By Felix 
Deliee. This is one of the best, most complete and most 
satisfactory cook books ever published. In compiling this 
book, the author, a chef of international reputation, divid- 
ed it into 365 parts, each part containing a bill of fare com- 
plete, with receipt for every dish named therein. These 
are designed to afford a separate menu for every day in the 
year, and with due regard for the season and the supplies 
afforded by the American markets. Each receipt is calcu- 
lated for eight persons, but can be varied by simply increas- 
ing or decreasing the quantities given. Price, postpaid, $360. 



THE AMERICAN SALAD BOOK. By Max De Loup. Has 
found its way into thousands of homes, hotels, restau 
rants and clubs. It is the most complete work of its kind. 
Every page reflects the genius of a master-hand in the 
delicate art of salad making. The contents include i Amer- 
ica the land of salads ; the mixing of salads; decorating and 
garnishing salads; sslad accompaniments; condiments ; 
serving salads; salad dressings and sauces ; flsh salads ; shell 
flsh salads; tame and wild fowl salads; various egg salads; 
meat salads; vegetable salads; fruit salads; fancy salads; 
miscellaneous salads. Over 200 receipts. Price, postpaid, $1- 



SALADS, 8ANDWICHES AND CHAFING DISH DAINTIES. 
By Janet McKenzie Hill. A valuable feature of this 
book is the illustrations, of which there are thirty-two, all 
made from photographs of the original dishes ana showing 
a tasteful way of serving them. The book is in three parts. 
Part one tells how to make aromatic vinegars, to keep veg- 
etables and to prepare garnishes; salad dressings, vegeta- 
ble salads with French dressings, other vegetable salads, 
and flsh, various compound, and fruit and nut salads; bow 
to prepare and use aspic jelly; cheese dishes served with 
salads. Part two tells of savory sandwiches, sweet sand- 
wiches, bread and chou paste and beverages. Part three 
of oyster dishes, lobster and other sea flsh, cheese, confeo- 
tions, eggs, vegetarian dishes, etc. Price, postpaid, $1 50. 



THE TABLE: HOW TO BUY FOOD, HOW TO COOK IT, 

AND HOW TO SERVE IT. By Filippini. One of the 

most popular culinary books in English language. Price. $2. 60 



THE WALDORF COOK BOOK. By Oscar. Printed in large 
type, and popular with many cooks. Postpaid, $2.50. 

THE POST GRADUATE COOKERY BOOK. By Adolphe 
Meyer. A new work appreciated by professional cooks. 
Gives receipts for hundreds of new and comparatively 
new dishes, all high class. Price $2. 



CHAFING DISH RECEIPTS. By H. M. Kinsley. Price $1. 



SALADS AND SAUCES. By Thomas J. Murrey. A little 
handbook of the gourmet's nicest art. Price, postpaid. 50o 



FRAISCATELLIS THE MODERN COOK. Price $2. 



ROTTENHOFER'S COOK BOOK. Printed in the German. 
Profusely illustrated- Imported. Price, postpaid, $5. 



RECHTSCHREIBUNd der Speisen et Getranke. Price S3. 



MEISTERWERK DER SPEISEN ET GETRANKE,2 vols)»15 



THK NEW CENTURY COOK BOOK. By C Herman 8enn, 
England. Is the most up-to-date of the imported culin- 
ary books. Contains 2.000 receipts. Goes more into detail of 
kitchen economics than anj other published work. Is in- 
valuable as a work for reference for chef and steward 

Price, postpaid, $5. 

SENN'S CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA, A dictionary of cul- 
inary technical terms, the names of most food stuffs, 
food and cookery auxiliaries, condiments and beverages. 
Useful for reference. Imported. Price, postpaid. 50 cents. 



PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY, FRENCH MENUS AND 
REGISTER OF DISHES. By C Herman Senn. A re- 
minder book of especial value to managers, stewards, chefs 
and all who have to compile menus. Gives the English and 
French names of foods and made dishes, the pronounciation 
of the principal words used in French menus, and much 
other useful information. Price postpaid 12. 



HUEG'S ART OF BAKING, condensed. Price 50 cents. 
HUEG'S ORNAMENTAL CONFECTIONERY AND ART OF 
BAKING (English and German). Price *2 50 



ICE CREAM AND CAKES. Price -U.50. 



ICB CREAM AND CAKES. By an American. A standard 
and very useful work. Price $150. 



GILL'S COMPLETE PRACTICAL CONFECTIONER. $4. 
GILL'S COMPLETE BREAD & CRACKER BAKER. 13. 
GILL'S COMPLETE PRACTICAL PASTRY COOK. $3. 



FRYE S PRACTICAL CANDY MAKER. Price 15. 



PRESERVING AND PICKLING (Lemke). Price 75 cents, 



FOOD PRODUCTS OF THE WORLD (Green's). Price 81 50. 



CARVING AND SERVING (by MrB. Lincoln). Price 75 cents 



THE BANQUET BOOK. A new book of quotations and ap 
propriate toasts for menus. Price 11.75. 



QUOTATIONS FOR OCCASIONS (handy for menus), fl.50 



TEA, ITS HISTORY AND MYSTERY (Walsh). Price 12. 
COFFEBJ, ITS HISTORY, CLASSIFICATION Price S2. 
TEA BLENDING AS A FINE ART (Walsh). Price $2. 



MODERN AMERICAN DRINKS. By Geo. J. Kappeler. 
Contains recipes for the proper mixing of all kinds of 
drinks such as absinthes, cocktails, cups, crustas, cobblers, 
coolers, egg-nogs, fixes, fizzes, flips, juleps, lemonades, 
punches, pousse cafe, frozen beverages etc. Price, $1. 



FANCY DRINKS AND POPULAR BEVERAGES. 50 cents. 



BARTENDERS GUIDE, OR HOW TO MIX DRINKS. By 
Jerry Thomas. Pa per bound , 60 cents ; cloth, 75 cents. 



DUBELLE'S SODA FOUNTAIN. 490 recipes for summer 
drinks comprising natural and artificial fruit syrups; 
fruit essences; concentrated fruit phosphates; malt phos- 
phates; wine phosphates; soluble flavoring extracts or es- 
sences; modern punches; milkpunches;fruitpunches; fruit 
meads; fruit champagnes; fruit juice shakes; eggphosphate 
shakes; fancy eggphosphates;solublewine nittersextracts; 
Italian lemonade; Ice cream sodas; non poisonous colors; 
foam preparations; latest novelties in soda fountain form- 
ulag; miscellaneous formulas etc. P rice tl. 
THE WAITERS' MANUAL. By W- F. Cozart. A technical 
treatise on dining room service. Price, postpaid, tl. 



HOW TO BECOME A WAITER. By D. Roedelsperger of 
Delmonlco's. A very useful book, printed in B'rench and 
English. Price 50 cents. 



HOW TO MAKE MONEY IN A COUNTRY HOTEL. Re- 
plete with ideas of value to the hotelkeeper. Price $ 1 . 75 
THE FINAN CIAL SIDE OF HO 1ELKEEPING. Price $2. 



THE WINE STEWARD'S MANUAL. Price *1. 



THE HOTEL RED BOOK- Lists 15.000 hotels. Price 13. 



A YEAR'S SUBSCRIPTION FOR HOTEL MONTHLY $1 
Bound volumes of the Hotel Monthly for 1893, 1894, 1895 

1896, 1897, 1898, 1899, 1900. 1901 and 1902, 1903, the set 811, or 

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SENDING MONEY BY MAIL. In remitting for boohs or sub- 
scription the safest way to send money is by Bank Draft, 
Post Office or Express Morey Order, or by Registered Letter. 
Those who take pains to REGISTER letters addressed The Ho- 
tel Monthly will have the extra cost of registering (eight 
cents) sent back to them in postage stamps with the receipt 
for the money. 



HOTEL MONTHLY SPECIALLY RULED 

Hotel Blank Books. 

THE H. M. TRANSIENT LEDGER, adapted for the aver- 
age commercial hotel of either or both plans Ruled for 
15 accounts to the page; leaf 10Kxl5!^ inches; stout linen 
ledger paper. Indexed throughout with letter on every leaf. 

150-page, tight back 82 50 

200-page, spring back, half Russia 4.00 

500-page, " " " " 000 

500-page, patent flat opening " 7-60 

800-page, patent flat opening " 9.50 



THE ECONOMICAL TRANSIENT LEDGER is similar to 
the "H. M." above, except it has an extra column for 

credits, and the ruling is for 21 accounts to the page. 

200-page, cloth bound 83.00 

300-page, spring back, half Russia 400 

500-page, ' 6.00 

500-page patent flat opening 7-60 



THE FOUR X TRANSIENT LEDGER is adapted for hotels 

of either or both plans, and more especially for houses 

that need considerable space for the entry of extras. Ruled 

10 accounts to page; leaf 14x16 inches; indexed throughout 

300-page, spring back, half Russia »5 00 

500-page, patent flat opening 8.60 



DELINQUENT LEDGER OB FILE BOOK. Leaf 6x9, ruled 
for 10C0 accounts. Price tl.00 



THE H. M. STOREROOM ISSUE BOOK. A simple, satis- 
factory ruling that meets the requirements of most 
hotels and clubs. Leaf 14x16 inches, canvas bound 

200-page $2.00 

400-page, spring back 4.00 



THE H. M. VALUABLE PACKAGE CHECK BOOK. Cou- 
pon leaves consecutively numbered in triplicate. The 
best check ever devised for valuables deposited in the office. 
Book of 100 leaves, 3x6^ Inches $0 60 



EXPRESS PACKAGE RECEIPT BOOK. Size of page 9x11 In. 
200-pages, half cloth, indexed throughout $1.50 



HOUSE PACKAGE RECEIPT BOOK. Size Of page 9x11 in . 
150 page, not Indexed $1.00 



THE MULLIGAN MAIL FORWARDER. Sizeof page 9x11 in. 
200 pages, half cloth, Indexed throughout 8160 



THE H. M. PAY ROLL BOOK, a popular ruling. Size of leaf 
11x19 Inches, 200 pages; half cloth $1.60 



H. M. BELL BOY BOOK, leaf 4x9, 

200-pages, price 50 cents each $5.00 the dozen. 



HOTEL REGISTERS, ready made only, and without blotter. 
Small size, 100-page, leaf llj^xl2, 2000 names.... 81 00 
Large size, 150 page, leaf HKxl7^, 4000 names.. 12.60 



THE BAILEY BOOK for keeping track of the wine room 

receipts, issues, and quantity and value of stock on hand 

at all times. Leaf 11x13^ inches. (Same book used also for 

cigars; and for daily count of linens to and from laundry). 

100 pages, $1.50 200 pages, «3.50 



FULWELL'S DAILY REPORT, sheets per 100 $2.00 

FULWELL'S STOREROOM ISSUE BOOK 2.00 

FULWELL'S STOREROOM STOCK BOOK 4.00 



TELLMAN'S POCKET PRICES REFERENCE $1.00 



VALLETTE'S HELP LEDGER AND TIME BOOK $3 00 



SPECIAL ORDER BOOK, 6J^x9 inches, 1000 coupons 60 



CALL SHEETS, ]4 hour. 7x8 In., pad of 100 25c; doz. $2.60 
CALL SHEETS, H " l«x8^ in., " " 40c; " 376 



REFERENCE OR DEPARTURE BOOK (used with the H. 
M. card system of keeping the transient accounts). 

150-page, 10.000 names, indexed throughout $2.00 

300-page, 20,000 names, " " 3.00 

REFERENCE BOOK with dollar and cents column. 

150-page, 8,000 names, Indexed throughout $2.00 

300-page, 16,000 " " " 3.00 

Jawbook, loose leaf, indexed $3.00 

" sheets, per 100 1.00 



INVENTORY BOOKS (a page ruled and printed for record 
of items in each separate guest room, and other pagea 
ruled for miscellaneous). Bound up to order; or sold in 
loose sheets of four pages, each sheet $0.08 



MEALS COUNT-HOUSE VALUE SHEETS, for Amerloan 

plan, ruled for one month; each 5cts;. ..per doz. $0.60 

JOHN WILLY, 325 Dearborn St., Chicago 



i go 



HOTEL MONTHLY ROOM RACK-LEDGER SYSTEM 

(PATENTED). 



RACKS, CABINETS, SIGNALS, ETC.— THE USE OF CARDS INSTEAD OF 
BOOKS FOR KEEP1NQ THE TRANSIENT ACCOUNTS. 

ROOM RACK solidly built of oak, aluminum pockets, room numbers stamped to order on wooder 

strips, price complete per pocket to cents. 

Same, with room numbers stamped on metal strips, per pocket 12 " 

A rack of 50 rooms measures 19^ inches tall by n inches wide, cost $5 with wood strips, $6 metal 

" " 100 " " ig l /2 21 " " " 10 " " ' 12 " 

" " 150 " " 22K 26 " " " 15 " " " 18 

Other sizes in proportion. -In ordering it is advisable to have a few extra pockets, as they can b; 
used for signal holders or memoranda from the different departments of the hotel. A blank form is 
furnished for convenience of writing in the room numbers when rack is ordered. 
CARD CASE for holding the supply of guest cards for the different days of the week, and also irom 

time bill is paid until the paid cards of the day are checked and ready for filing away. Case oi 
oak (12 inches wide, 16% inches tall, 4)2 inches deep) sixteen pigeon holes, metal labels, and a st| 
of metal plates suitably inscribed for covers for the different supply cards, price complete. . . .$3.00 
FILING CABINET, 24 pigeon holes, stoutly built of oak, measures 21 by 21 inches by 10 inche;> 

deep. Holds 24 filing boxes, capacity 24,000 cards, price with filing boxes complete $5.75 

(This cabinet is not necessary for small hotels, when it is just as convenient to file by date as it is tc. 

do so alphabetically or by number). 

GUEST CARDS (put up in riling boxes 1000 to the box) best quality 2-ply white bristol, 1000 70c 

The same, except as to quality, (the cards made of extra quality manilla), per 1000 50c. 

^^-(Less ten per cent when cards are ordered in h'ts 1 f t v. ■ <nd or more) 

ppSn , , < in l>»- purchased with or without ek printed on. 

DOUBLE-UP CARDS (for use when room is occupied by more than one guest, this card to • 

in front of the guest enrds as index to occupants of room) put up in boxes of 1000. Same qual- 
ities and prices as the Gnest Cards above. 

ROOM CARDS of linen parchment paper (to stand permanently, one in each pocket, as index to 

size, price, accommodations and furnishmer: • per 100 1 5c . 

EMPLOYES CARDS, similar to the room cat Is, e\< epi they indicate rooms occupied by empl 

or other persons than guests, per 100 15c. 

BOARDERS CARDS, of linen led ger paper, double size, stand folded in rack, per 100 15c 

OUT OF ORDER CARDS, same quality as the best q uality of guest cards, per 100 10c. 

BRASS SIGNALS to facilitate the rooming of guests when the register is busy with new arrivals 

(one of these put '"to the room pocket soon as room i prevents c onfusion) each. . . .5c 

ADVANCE ENGAGEMENT SIGNAL CARDS, of linen ;t paper, triangular shape, (to 

stand in the rack as indicative that such and such rooms are engaged ahead: memoranda of en- 
gagement written on card, and date of engagement o n the exposed corner), per 100 ioc. 

THREE STYLES OF REFERENCE BOOK TO SELECT FROM 
( The 10,000 and 20,000-size styles are the most popular). 
REFERENCE OR DEPARTURE BOOK (the key to the system) for entering in alphabetical or- 
der, the names of all guests assigned to rooms, together with room number, file number, time of 

arrival and time of departure. 150-page book, indexed throughout, 10,000 names $2 00 

300-page book indexed throughout, 20,000 names $3 °° 

REFERENCE BOOK with dollar and cents columns. 150 page, 8,000 names, indexed thru'out $2 00 

300-page, 16,000 names, indexed throughout 3 °° 

THE JAWBOOK FOR REFERENCE, (loose leaf system), indexed $3 00 

Reference sheets for use in Jawbook, per too ' °° 

lLS TH'KKTS printed to order in lots of 5000 or more, per 1000 fi.oo 

EXTRA FILING BOXES (needed only where the fi lin g cabinet is not used) each ioc- 

CARD ASSORTI NG RACK (a conve nience for large hotels using the system) each >3 5Q : 

MAIL FORWARDER RACK, used by hotels using the ca rd system for Mail Forwarding, each $1.50 

MAIL FQRW ^ ARDS printed bot h sides on ledger paper, per 1000 60c. 

Cards, Cabinets and other paraphernalia, not essential to 1 to order, are carried in stock 

ready for immediate shipment. Write for Pamphlet illustrating the system. 
More than 200 hotels are already using this system successfully. 

John Willy, Inventor and Paten tee ,3 25 Dearborn st, Chicago 



10 1904 






